The Best Pho in Town: Pagolac

It’s been a while since I’ve been to Pagolac, as I had been frequenting Doan’s to satify my pho craving. My last few trips to Doan’s have been disappointing, however – the beef stock seemed to have increased in salt content and did not appear to have been made from scratch (boullion cubes, anyone?).

I was hoping Pagolac hadn’t gone downhill in the time I had been away, and I am happy to report that they still offer the best pho in the city! My bowl didn’t have cilantro (boo), but other than that, I couldn’t complain about anything. Their servers always amaze me too – super efficient even in a packed house.

Inexpensive and consistent, Pagolac is still my recommentation for reliable, cheap eats.

Pho with medium sliced beef

A Little Slice of Europe: Bistro Praha

A few friends and I met up at Bistro Praha (10168 100A Street) for a late afternoon dinner on Saturday. I hadn’t been back to the restaurant in some years, though I had been a frequent patron there in my late high school and early university days. The Rice Howard Way strip hosts a number of independent, ethnic eateries, including La Table de Renoir (French), Co Co Di (Lebanese), It’s All Greek to Me (what else but Greek), and the Eastern European fare of Bistro Praha.

Small but cozy, Bistro Praha always seems to have a few groups of regulars in addition to more curious diners. With a prominent bar and counter along one side and furniture that could have been pulled from an old family pub, the dining room is comfortable and feels familiar somehow. Lighting is dim, but conducive, it seems, to the camaraderie of more boisterous customers, but protective also of the intimate conversations taking place at the tables for two.

I wish I could provide more detail about the menu items, but truth be told, I’ve always ordered the same entree – the Wiener Schnitzel “Cordon Bleu” (a slice of veal, edam cheese and ham breaded then fried). Served with green and potato salads, the meal is consistently satisfying. I decided to order the full plate, though when it arrived, I realized that in the past, I had only asked for the half order – the schnitzel was huge! Still, I managed to eat every crispy and tasty bite – a microwaved portion of leftovers really wouldn’t have done the dish justice.

Stuffed, I wasn’t able to order dessert, but the rest of the girls did. Janice said Bistro Praha’s crepes were better than those served at The Creperie.

It was a nice meal overall – good food, attentive service, and not a bad place to catch up with friends. If you’re in the area, give Bistro Praha a try!

Restaurant interior

Wiener Schnitzel “Cordon Bleu”

Peach Crepe

Delicious and Divine: Violino

After reading a few positive reviews about Violino (10133 125 Street), a new-ish restaurant in the High Street area, I suggested that Annie and I give it a try on Friday night.

Located in what appears to be a renovated house, we were greeted upon arrival by a host who took our coats (after New York, I am terrified by coat checks). He led us to the second floor dining area, and at that time, we were only the second party in the restaurant (while it was never full, more patrons arrived over the course of the evening).

Annie and I both loved the decor – red tapestries, cream seat covers, and the nicest bathroom either of us had seen in a long time (I’m a sucker for those bowl-shaped sinks that sit atop counters). My only nitpick was the prevalence of music-themed art throughout the restaurant; two or three pieces would have been subtle, but we seemed to encounter another sculpture every time we turned around.

Wanting to leave room for dessert, we bypassed the appetizers and denser entrees, opting instead for the Risotto con Funghi (risotto and wild mushroom melange, parmesan cheese, mixed herbs and laced with truffle oil). I am pleased to say that our server was great under the circumstances; she was assigned the entire second level, and was swamped, but did her best to provide attentive and timely service.

Our food arrived in a positively aromatic cloud and our server confirmed that we were noticing the truffle oil. In short, the risotto was divine. Rich and savoury, but not overly salty, the rice was a creamy bit of heaven.

To end our meal, we each ordered the Espresso Tiramisu and an accompanying cup of tea. Beautifully presented, with an artfully placed wafer and a single raspberry, the cake did not taste heavy, unlike versions at other Italian restaurants. The marscapone cheese blended wonderfully with the espresso-soaked biscuits, and I found the chocolate syrup garnish a nice sweet touch.

While not inexpensive, our indulgence at Violino was well worth it.

Restaurant Exterior

Annie and her Risotto

Espresso Tiramisu

Food Notes

  • Judy Schultz is retiring! After 26 years, she is leaving the Journal. We’ll miss you, Judy!
  • La Spiga is no more. Violino, another Italian eatery, has replaced it. Judging by a positive review from the Zenari clan, it’s a good bet for traditional food.
  • The next time I return to Manhattan, I’ll be sure to time it around a Restaurant Week. The listing of participants for the January event is up.
  • There was an interesting article in the Globe last week about the movement to “reclaim” but also to experiment with Indian food. It talks about an up and coming chef, based in the UK, who has banished the word “curry” from his menu.
  • Food trends for 2008 (though perhaps not really worth mentioning in a food climate as slow as Edmonton’s): gastropubs, comfort food/one-item restaurants (like S’MAC), and upscale frozen desserts.
  • Blogging about New York took a lot out of me, so instead of a full restaurant review, I’m copping out and just writing a few sentences about my latest experience at Manor Cafe. I had dinner there with a few girlfriends there last week, and was less than impressed. This is the second time where upon entering the restaurant, I was left waiting in the lobby for someone, anyone, to greet me. Secondly, our server opened up the evening with humor, referencing the nearly-empty dining area on the main floor (“As you can see, we’re so busy”), but failed to keep up with the implied promise of good service. Andrea never did get her water glass refilled, and resorted to drinking everyone else’s water. Our supply of hot water for tea also needed continued requests to be replenished. The food was nothing to write home about, though it was my choice to order the seemingly out of place Nasi Goreng dish. The rice itself was pretty bland, but I did enjoy the accompaniments provided (the peanut sauce in particular was quite tasty). Operated by the same couple who own Urban Diner (where I’ve always had a positive experience), I’m surprised at how inconsistent Manor Cafe has been.

A Surprisingly Good Brunch: Moxie’s

After discovering that a chain like Milestone’s could serve a pretty mean brunch, I went hunting for similar restaurants competing for diners on weekend afternoons. While Earls and Joey’s didn’t offer separate brunch menus, I found that Moxie’s did. So after a brief shopping trip this morning, Annie and I headed to Moxie’s on the south side (4790 Calgary Trail NW), hoping their non-reservation policy wouldn’t result in a lengthy wait.

Turns out we didn’t need to worry, as there were more than enough seats to accommodate us in the dining room. The menu was not extensive, with just nine breakfast selections (and their regular lunch features), but I actually preferred it this way – it usually meant faster kitchen prep. I was momentarily swayed by the French Toast, but ultimately decided on the Bacon & Cheddar Omelette ($10.99) – smoky bacon, sauteed onion, aged white and Canadian cheddars in a three egg omelette served with rosti potatoes and twelve-grain toast. Annie chose the more interesting Crab Cake Benedict ($12.99) – Moxie’s classic crab cakes, two poached eggs and hollandaise, with rosti potatoes and fresh fruit.

Plied with coffee, we would have waited patiently for our dishes, but in no time, our plates arrived. My omelette was huge, and I am happy to report that they did not scrimp on the cheese. They could have included more bacon (what meat that was folded in was overpowered by cheesy goodness), but that was a minor nitpick. Between the toast and crab cakes, Annie found her dish unfortunately dry, and would have liked more hollandaise sauce.

With great service throughout (our waitress constantly offered to top up our coffees) and a decent brunch menu, I would consider coming back.

Bacon & Cheddar Omelette

Crab Cake Benedict

Setting the Bar Low: Four Rooms Restaurant

Armed with an Entertainment Book coupon and low expectations, May and I headed to Four Rooms Restaurant (137 Edmonton City Centre) on Friday night.

After an overly negative experience in my high school days (involving rock-hard bread and food not remotely memorable), I was hesitant to return. But with a sweetened incentive of a 2-for-1 meal, and proximity to our second destination that evening, I was willing to give it another try. Lately as well, I had been reading about their popular Cosmopolitan Supper Club, a monthly concept event that offers dishes based around one ingredient or theme. Thus, I was hoping Four Rooms had improved since our last visit.

At around 6:15pm, May and I walked into the restaurant, greeted by four staff members who were standing around in the lobby casually chatting. Not a crime, but certainly not a good sign from a restaurant that, based purely upon location, should have been doing brisk business from the after-work and holiday shopping crowds alone. It turned out we were the third party in the dining room, though I did notice that the back room lounge contained other patrons as well. We were efficiently seated at a table along the wall, a thoughtful choice from the host who noted that the banquet would allow for ample space for our shopping bag.

The menu was more extensive and interesting than I could remember, though again, May and I were hard pressed to recall what we ordered the last time (keeping in mind that the selections had more than likely been overhauled since 2001 anyway). Though there were a few tempting selections, I ended up with the Marsala Bison Kafta ($13.50) – Bison Kaftas & mushrooms in a Marsala cream sauce tossed with linguine pasta – while May ordered the Banana Curry Chicken ($16) – grilled free range chicken in a Madras curry sauce with onions, bell peppers, yams and sweet potatoes.

When our server delivered our two dinner rolls, I couldn’t tell whether or not they were fresh or not. I could, however, nitpick that they were of the 25 cent variety available at your neighbourhood Sobey’s. Slicing into it, they were thankfully fairly soft, albeit a little cool to the touch.

Our dishes arrived fairly quickly, and on first glance, appeared quite small. By the end, however, between the meat and the pasta, I felt like the quantity was just about right. Perhaps due to my underdeveloped palette, the kafta, crafted from ground bison meat, tasted like a pan-fried Ikea meatball. The pasta, on the other hand, was superb. The sauce was creamy and sweet, with the only downside being that there wasn’t more of it to go around. May said her dish was all right, though she would have preferred a more generous serving of chicken, and could have done without the out-of-place bananas.

As meals go, this wasn’t half bad – service was good, and the food was reasonably priced. Of course, it was difficult to be objective given that we had set the bar so incredibly low. I may be back, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for Four Rooms.

Banana Curry Chicken

Marsala Bison Kafta

As Seen on TV: Koutouki Taverna

Ever since The Family Restaurant aired on Food Network Canada, my Mum and I have been itching to visit Koutouki – not for the food necessarily, but in order to see the venue of a television production in person. As I had heard dinners at Koutouki was quite pricey, we decided to swing by for lunch instead.

Our schedules finally aligned, and with a day off on Friday, I made a reservations for my parents and I at the southside Taverna (10310 45 Avenue). Stepping into the low-ceilinged building, I found the space cramped, but in a comfortable, “get to know your neighbour” kind of way, similar to TZiN. I loved the overhanging ivy-like plants, with twinkle lights looped in-between pots – they would, as my Mum commented, be a nightmare to water, but really elicited feelings of romanticism and escapist possibilities. Even more than Blue Willow, pictures of the family behind Koutouki lined every wall (including patriarch Yianni Psalios with Kevin Lowe, and even Muhammad Ali!) and served their function of making diners feel like a part of the establishment’s growing history.

While I can’t claim to be a huge fan of Greek cuisine, I probably haven’t sampled enough of it to really make a fair judgment. It turns out Koutouki doesn’t offer a separate lunch and dinner menu, so my delay was for naught. The waitress spoke of two specials, one of which sounded good to me – a pork donair-esque dish ($15.95) that I can’t remember by name. My parents opted for the second special, a rack of lamb, also priced at $15.95.

While waiting for our entrees, we were offered bread and Greek salad (feta, tomatoes, red onion, cucumbers, olives) lightly tossed in olive oil. It was a light, refreshing way to start out our meal, and I didn’t even mind the feta in the dish.

We did get to see Yianni and his wife Kally – Yianni stepped out to survey the dining room at one point, and Kally was busy refilling coffee and water throughout our time there. Everything seemed so normal and commonplace that it was strange to think a full television crew was once stationed here.

Our entrees arrived and I immediately knew I wouldn’t be able to finish the large portion, especially given that this was my first meal of the day. The cubes of pork within my donair tasted tough and overcooked, but I was willing to overlook that if not for the overpowering lemon used in both the sauce and the potato side dish. The citrus was so pervasive that everything actually tasted sour. And though I’m not averse to parsley, overuse of the fresh herb was too much for me in this case. My parents thought the lamb was all right, though they would have happily accepted steak knives instead of the butter knives provided at the tables.

While we were treated to attentive service during our time at Koutouki, I can’t say I’ll be back. The food really played second-string to “celebrity-sighting” this afternoon.

Restaurant interior

Menu

The Psalios family

Yianni with Muhammad Ali

Certificate from Premier Ralph Klein, congratulating Yianni and Kally on their grand Cyprus wedding for daughter Dina

Greek salad

Donair

Rack of lamb

Holiday Vantage Point: Three Bananas Cafe

Needing a quick bite to eat downtown, and not in the mood to jostle with the Friday night food court crowd, I was pulled towards the reliably quiet Three Bananas Cafe on Churchill Square.

Several months have passed since I last stopped by, but not much had changed about the place. As I mentioned in my previous post, however, the cafe is a tad on the dim side in the evenings, with only a few ill-placed spot bulbs overhead. Surveying all available tables, only two were bright enough to allow for comfortable reading. I was lucky to snag one, and thumbed through a free weekly while waiting for my Traditional (pepperoni and mushroom) Pizzette. Not exactly cheap at $8.95, I figured I was paying more for the venue and the view – great for people watching in the summer, the windows are an even better vantage point in the winter, opening up to the BrightNights displays on the east side of Churchill Square.

My pizza required a wait of about fifteen minutes, but arrived hot and very cheesy. It wasn’t as good as I remembered, but considering the last one was consumed as I was moving back to solid foods upon recovery from my wisdom teeth extraction, a less than fantastic second trial was to be expected.

If you’re around the Square to take in the holiday decorations, why not stop by Three Bananas for a warming mug of hot chocolate?

Traditional Pizzette

Generic by Choice: White Spot

Thwarted by the long line at Tim Hortons, Dickson and I had to find an alternative breakfast/brunch place this morning. Wanting very much to satisfy my craving for eggs, I suggested we give White Spot (3921 Calgary Trail) a try.

The only thing I had heard about White Spot was that a friend who dined here once saw Steve Staios and his family at the restaurant. Other than that, my impressions were assumptions – that the White Spot was another generic establishment billing itself as family-friendly but also sophisticated enough for adult-only dining (cf. Boston Pizza, Ricky’s All Day Grill, Applebee’s, etc.). I wasn’t wrong.

It was nearly noon by the time we pulled up to the restaurant, and we found that the wait was between fifteen to twenty minutes. That was enough time to visually explore the decor – including a prominently placed fake fireplace out front and “welcome” in a variety of languages imprinted above the waiting area. White Spot really did remind me of Kelsey’s – a sports bar just off the main thoroughfare, cozy booths, friendly, girl-next-door waitresses, and a nearly identical menu.

We were seated in the back near the kitchen, in an area adjacent to a skylight, an unexpected but much appreciated design feature. It didn’t take us long to decide on our meals, as there were only five brunch options available at this location (a far cry from the twelve listed on the website – there was not a pancake, waffle, or omelet in sight). We both chose Nat’s Country Style Breakfast ($8.95) – toast, hash browns and 2 each of eggs, bacon and sausage.

Our orders arrived in record time – after about five minutes – though as Dickson commented, it wasn’t a difficult plate to put together, nor was the serving size particularly impressive. While it was a filling first meal of the day for me, it still wasn’t wholly satisfying. Perhaps it was my mistake in ordering something that I could have made myself without too much effort.

For brunch at least, there are a lot more interesting options than White Spot to choose from.

Restaurant Interior

Nat’s Country Style Breakfast

Wayne Gretzky Was Here: Blue Willow Restaurant

My family and I had dinner at Blue Willow (11107 103 Avenue) tonight. It’s a restaurant whose reputation precedes it – known to me (and many others) as a favorite of Wayne Gretzky, I wanted to see if the food would live up to the hype.

Entering a non-descript brown building that looked more like it belonged in a business park, we were immediately greeted by a narrow entrance way lined with photo memorabilia. If anything, Blue Willow is worth a visit just to take a gander at the pictures. Most of the photographs were shots of the owner, Vic Mah, with well-known hockey players, including the Great One, Vladislav Tretiak, Grant Fuhr, and even a dreadlocked Jerome Iginla!

Most of the seated patrons were of the older set, and appeared very much to be regulars. We were the only non-Caucasian customers at that time, leading us to believe the Blue Willow was very much a westernized Chinese eatery. When we noticed the lack of chopsticks at the place settings, the distribution of plates versus bowls to use, and the offering of plain steamed rice by the bowl (at $3 a pop) as opposed to by the container, our suspicions were substantiated. The Chinese tea we ordered was also not of the loose leaf variety – instead, they used two very weak tea bags. When we received the bill, we found out they charged us $9 for the tea – $2.25 each for the four of us. Had we known that in advance, I would have seriously considered bringing in a thermos.

As for the menu itself – it was very well put together – hard plastic pages bound nicely. The fare was, no surprise, quite westernized – in both selection and price point. After some perusal, we settled on the Mixed Chinese Vegetables ($9.25), Mongolian Beef ($12.25), Tofu Hot Pot ($11.75) and the Blue Willow Special Fried Rice ($10.50). It was unfortunate that it took over five minutes for our table to be acknowledged by anyone (our water glasses were eventually filled…by a boy that looked about ten years old. It is indeed a “family-run” establishment).

The dining room seemed to be quieting down, so our dishes didn’t take long to arrive. I must admit I was quite impressed by their innovative plating idea: fondue-style, candlelit stainless steel contraptions complete with lids to keep the food within warm. The candle was so effective that the sauce in the vegetable and beef dishes were literally bubbling! This aside, the verdict on the food itself was mixed. The portions were very small (likely about half the size of a plate at a typical Chinese restaurant), and besides the fried rice, which was quite aromatic and flavourful, the rest of the dishes were forgettable.

After our meal, and just before receiving the bill, we were treated to a bit of a Singapore Airlines service – hot towels. Our waitress even did a spin move (similar to how one would balance a basketball on one finger) to unravel the towel. It was something you’d have to see to believe.

While I can appreciate the history behind a place like the Blue Willow, the food just isn’t as good – or authentic – as I would prefer in a Chinese restaurant.

Photo on the wall of Vic Mah and Jerome Iginla
Restaurant interior (pictures were all taken on my Dad’s PDA…hence the poor quality)
Beautiful china
Mixed Chinese Vegetables
Mongolian Beef