Category: restaurant reviews

An Old Favourite: Urban Diner

After opening the fridge and exploring the pantry in Mack’s apartment, I realized we wouldn’t be able to put together a coherent meal beyond Kraft Dinner. We opted instead for a late lunch at the nearby Urban Diner (12427 102 Avenue). I’ve written positively about their brunch and their dinner selections before, but it has been a while since either of us had been to the restaurant.

Though it was cloudy outside, there was still enough natural light floating in to make the space bright and conducive to the mood generated by the groovy 70s music being played. We looked through our options, and both decided on sandwiches – Mack the Monte Cristo (three layers, egg-dipped, turkey, ham, swiss) and I the Club (roasted turkey, bacon, tomatoes, cranberry thyme chutney, roasted garlic aioli and sharp cheddar), both priced at $11.95. Mack opted for fries on the side while the weather made soup the natural selection for me.

Mack with their house-brewed iced tea

Our plates took a bit of time to arrive, but it was well worth the wait. The split pea and ham soup was just what I was looking for – warm and hearty, it satisfied my soft spot for lentils. My club sandwich was visually stunning, a spectrum of colours that tasted just as good as it looked. I loved the multigrain bread, and was surprised with their usage of real turkey meat (instead of deli-sliced turkey), but the cranberry chutney pretty much overpowered all other flavours.

Mack’s sandwich was equally good, though quite different. His creation included a generous amount of cheese and meat, and the side of skinny “diner fries” were the perfect crispy accompaniment.

Club Sandwich with ham and split pea soup

Monte Cristo with fries

After a delectable-looking chocolate cake was delivered to the table behind us, I knew I had to have it as well. So though our waiter recommended the Sour Lemon Pie, we chose the 5-Layer Chocolate Torte instead ($9). It turned out to be a tad expensive, as we didn’t know the price beforehand, but it was a nice way to end our meal. Mack, who doesn’t normally enjoy too-sweet desserts, was even able to finish his half of the cake. My only nitpick was that it would have been better at room temperature.

5-Layer Chocolate Torte

Reliable, relaxed, and friendly, Urban Diner is one of my favourite casual restaurants in the city.

Urban Diner
12427 102 Avenue
(780) 488-7274
Tuesday-Friday 11am-9pm, Saturdays 9am-1:30pm (brunch), 2-5pm (lunch), 5-9pm (dinner), Sundays 9am-3pm (brunch only), closed Mondays

Strikingly Pedestrian: Hundred Bar Kitchen

When I saw the brown paper signs depicting the newest Century Hospitality hotspot, I knew I hadn’t been so excited for a restaurant opening since L’Azia’s Wildflower Grill earlier this year.

Hundred Bar Kitchen exterior

Hundred Bar Kitchen (10009 101A Street), situated in the McLeod Building, has taken over the space of two  failed sports bar ventures. I am certain the name recognition of Century Hospitality alone will guarantee Hundred’s success, and based on a recent visit to the near-capacity restaurant, it is well on its way to becoming a popular downtown hangout for the 24-35 crowd.

Mack and I had reservations for Thursday night, and upon being greeted by a friendly hostess, we were promptly seated at the rear of the restaurant. The interior had been gutted, and has nearly no resemblance to the last tenant, save perhaps the location of the bar. Instead of a masculine space accented with dark leather and furnishings, Hundred is plush – carpet, curtains, rounded leather banquets, and stunningly gorgeous crystal chandeliers. Great for large groups, we passed more than our fair share of the after-work crowd and those that wanted to see and be seen.

I had previewed the menu online, so was already familiar with the contents and the design – a single page, divided into easy-to-read sections (though the writers need to review their use of quotation marks – when is ‘fromage’ not fromage?). The focus is on share plates, continuing with their group-friendly mentality, though there are a few sizable entrees, including the $100 surf and turf for those looking for more substantial eats.

We ended up ordering basic items, rationalizing that the restaurant had to walk before it could run. Mack wanted to give their Calamari ($11) a spin, while I was interested in their Kobe Meatball Sliders ($14). The Turf Flatbread ($16) appealed to both of us, a pizza topped with sausage and pancetta among other things, though in hindsight was rather pricey.

Hundred also has an extensive liquor “market” to tempt us, though I wasn’t in the imbibing mood that night. The $6 beer flight and $8 wine flight seemed to be the best deal, offered every Thursday night.

Our dishes arrived in timely fashion, attractively presented but not overbearingly so. The calamari actually turned out to contain a smaller portion than we expected, fluffed up in a high-backed bowl. I liked the sweet dipping sauce, but Mack’s final verdict was that it was a version comparable to the one produced at Earls. The slider meatballs themselves were good – slightly tangy from a tomato bath and nicely seasoned on the inside. The kaiser rolls, however, lowered the overall quality of the mini-burger – having realized the difference fresh bread makes after amazing sandwiches at the Italian Bakery and elevated sliders at Devlin’s, the slightly stale-tasting rolls just didn’t cut it. Lastly, Mack and I were divided on the flatbread: I awarded the kitchen points for achieving a sturdy crust, but I wasn’t sold on the flavour combination of sweet sundried tomato pesto, salty pancetta, smoky roasted red peppers and savoury sausage. Mack, on the other hand, loved it – so to each their own.

Calamari

Kobe Meatball Sliders

Turf Flatbread

The most memorable moment of the night had nothing to do with the food or anything tangible, but occurred when Mack was taking non-flash shots of the restaurant interior. The manager immediately came up to him and questioned his actions. Mack explained that he wasn’t from a conventional media source, and mentioned my food blog. The manager didn’t seem to be familiar with the world of social media, and while this may be excusable for “mom and pop” operations, for an establishment “courting the yuppie vote” so to speak, at least a scant awareness of life on the internet is called for.

Once the hype of the eatery has died down, I’m not sure Hundred has the kitchen chops to maintain my business. But judging from the success of Century Hospitality’s other holdings, I don’t think my absence will make much of a difference. 

Hundred Bar Kitchen
10009 101 A Street
(780) 425-0100
Lunch: Monday – Friday: 11am – 5pm
Dinner: Sunday – Wednesday 5pm – 12am, Thursday – Saturday 5pm – 2am

Decent Stopover: Lemongrass Cafe

Needing a quick bite before the third and final Presidential debate, Mack and I headed to Lemongrass Cafe (10417 51 Avenue). I came to that decision for three reasons: it was on our way home; the restaurant had provided food of reasonable quality at our staff retreat last week; and I had an Entertainment Book coupon to burn.

My first impression of Lemongrass Café wasn’t a positive one. A makeshift paper sign had been taped up on the door, reading something to the likes of “We are not accepting 2008 Entertainment Book coupons or cards.” As we wouldn’t have been able to get to and out of another non-fast food dining establishment in time for the show, we elected to eat there anyway.

Walking in to this strip-mall restaurant with an aged awning, I was surprised to find an uncluttered, clean and fairly modern space inside. The furniture appeared to be fairly new, though the wicker chairs left some more comfortable seating to be desired. Black and white photos of posed Asian women adorned the walls, and while artful and unexpected, they were a bit unnerving.

The physical menu was simple but nice – easy-to-read typeface on a white background, accented with photos of different ingredients or implements used in the cooking process. For the most part, the available dishes reminded me of the offerings at Hoang Long – both in composition and price.

Without a discount incentive to order a more expensive dish, I opted for a warming bowl of pho, my usual variety topped with medium rare beef ($7.50). Mack gravitated towards a rice plate, and decided on the stir-fried vegetables with beef and chicken, choosing to exclude the squid ($12.75).

Our food arrived in timely fashion (though the same could not be said for the water refills that did not come). My pho was bereft of onions, with just a few measly slivers to speak of, but I was happy to taste the comforting broth, flavourful but not too salty. Mack enjoyed his dish, noting that the kitchen didn’t skimp on the meat, but claimed there were “too many vegetables.”

Medium Rare Beef Noodle Soup

Stir-fry with Beef and Chicken

 

Caught in photography mode

Lemongrass Café won’t replace Pagolac for me, but should I be in the area and in need of an emergency hit of pho, at least I know now that there’s a decent stopover nearby. 

Lemongrass Cafe
10417 51 Avenue NW
(780) 413-0088
Monday – Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday 11am-10pm, Saturday noon-10pm, Sunday 4-9pm

Filipino Buffet: Fat Jakks

My friend and I met for lunch on Friday at Fat Jakks (10126 107 Avenue), a restaurant of her choosing. I had never been before, but really, what better guide could I have at a Filipino eatery than the person who introduced me to the cuisine in the first place?

Though I was able to walk to Fat Jakks, I noticed parking was quite tight around the area. And as the restaurant doesn’t have its own designated parking lot, I would recommend arriving early in order to guarantee yourself street parking.

My friend was a few minutes late, but that allowed me time to preliminarily survey the buffet, menu, as well as the decor. My friend told me later on that the space had been fully renovated after the former owner of the Palabok House (another popular Edmonton Filipino restaurant) moved to this new property. Fat Jakks features a dance floor, a flat screen television, and all new furnishings – I would imagine they are hoping to host their share of holiday and special occasion functions in the coming months.

Interior

The menu was surprisingly short, though filled with dishes I couldn’t help but be curious about. In particular, there were three types of spring rolls (Vietnamese, Shanghai, and Manila) listed on the first page, and another catch-all page with dishes from Korea, Japan and Vietnam. Like most Asian restaurants that attempt to be more diverse than their kitchen should be, I decided to stick with Fat Jakks’ Filipino roots and paid the most attention to the section of the menu titled “Philippines’ Best”. My only knock on the restaurant was the inaccessibility of this page, as none of the dishes were explained. Though I’m certain the friendly waitress would have been more than happy to elaborate, for the patron’s ease, I would have appreciated brief dish descriptions underneath each name.

At any rate, once my friend arrived, she decided the buffet was the best way to go, as most of the dishes contained on the “Phillippines’ Best” page were represented in the buffet. Just $9.95 (offered only on Thursdays and Fridays), I couldn’t think of a better deal to sample 15 hot dishes plus a number of desserts.

Buffet line

Many of the dishes seemed very similar to ones I’m used to eating at home, so though the meal was filling and thoroughly satisfying, I didn’t find it a wholly unique experience. That said, I did have a few favourites, including the stir-fried vermicelli noodles, stir-fried beef, and the oh-so-tender beef brisket. The Manila spring rolls turned out to be very similar to the Chinese version I am used to, except that the filling looked and tasted like it had been compounded together with a mash of some kind, as opposed to visually distinct individual ingredients.

My first plate

My friend’s first plate (we had two each)

By the time we had our fill of the entrees, we barely had time (or room) for dessert. Of course, it was difficult for me to pass up an opportunity to try some Filipino sweets, so we headed to the hidden table to investigate our options. I ended up with a piece of custard-like coconut dessert and part of a tart made of cassava. The former was my favourite – not overly sweet, and light enough not to tip me over the scale.

Our dessert plates

Given that the restaurant was only graced by five other parties during our stay, I am hoping that the word spreads quickly about Fat Jakks. Clean, efficient and economical, their buffet is hard to beat.

Fat Jakks
10126 107 Avenue NW
(780) 485-2557
Monday, Wednesday-Saturday 11:30am-10pm, Sunday 12-9pm, closed Tuesdays

No Complaints: The Lingnan

It’s funny (and tragic) how it sometimes takes national bodies to draw attention to local institutions, but I found that this was the case with The Lingnan (10582 104 Street).

Food Network Canada chose the family behind The Lingnan to feature on their upcoming season of Family Restaurant, to begin airing January 2009. I saw the article in the Journal earlier this year, and noting the connection between the restaurant and Chicken for Lunch (Amy’s sons run the joint), convinced Mack to join me there for dinner on a random weekday.

Exterior

I had no complaints over the aesthetics of The Lingnan. The upstanding sign atop the building, eye-catching even two streets away, draws one’s attention to an area where a Chinese restaurant is a little unexpected, situated across from a dated business facility and behind an emergency response team office. Once through the (slightly shady looking) door, we were greeted by a cool, lush interior that we could not have predicted from the outside. Everything from the mirrored walls to the paneled ceiling was beautiful, even if slightly over-the-top. The high ceiling and open dining room made the space seem larger than it actually was, and afforded diners (amounting to about ten tables by the end of the evening) a sense of privacy. Although the restaurant is very obviously geared towards Western sensibilities (much like Blue Willow), I didn’t mind it because of their earnest, well-intentioned approach.

Dining room

The waiters, dressed in a “traditional” jacket (definitely over-the-top) were polite and surprisingly personable. After perusing the menu, Mack’s pick was his usual benchmark ginger beef ($12.50), while I was craving fried noodles. Though my original selection was a dish called “Crispy Noodles Chow Mein”, our adept waiter steered us toward the “Chinese Style Aristocratic Chow Mein” ($13.75, with shrimp). I guess I needed some instruction on reading the menu as it was exactly what I had in mind.

Menu

Drink menu in place of the more common Chinese zodiac (guess they’re really pushing the cocktails)

Mack’s Lingnan Pi Jiu with a hint of ginseng (brewed by local microbrewery, Alley Kat)

Before our dishes were brought to us, our waiter set up two metal plate warmers. Though a nice touch, we found them to be quite ineffective. At any rate, our food was out in no time.

Mack was quite happy with the ginger beef, noting that it was a “close second” behind Pagolac’s version. I found it pleasing enough – a decent beef-to-batter ratio and a tangy sauce that was slightly spicy. The chow mein was fine as well, with a reasonable quantity of shrimp included, and enough fried, crispy noodles to quash my craving. Mack didn’t like the soggy noodles in the centre of the dish, but I love the textural contrast and their sauce-laden goodness.

Ginger Beef

Chinese Style Aristocratic Chow Mein

The Lingnan, while offering nothing out of the ordinary in terms of solid Western Chinese dishes, does so in a clean environment and efficient manner.

Mack should pose like this in every picture

The Lingnan
10582 104 Street
(780) 426-3975
Monday-Thursday 5-11pm, Friday & Saturday 5pm-12am, Sundays & Holidays 4-8:30pm

Mom is Always Right: Nhon Hoa

My officemate was recently asking me about cheap eats in our area. I immediately directed him to the Italian Bakery and Nhon Hoa.

Nhon Hoa (10622 97 Street), with two locations within a stone’s throw of each other, was a frequent stop in my childhood. Not for me (I didn’t learn to appreciate food until I was well into adulthood), but for my Mum, who knew that Vietnamese subs were not only dirt cheap, but darn tasty.

All sandwiches have the same base – toasted French-style baguette, and layers of homemade mayo, pickled carrots, cucumber, cilantro, and (optional) hot peppers. Her favourite variety was (and still is) the combination sub, while I gravitate toward the safer option of shredded, fried pork ($3.25). Freshly put together and wrapped securely in saran wrap, the subs are take-away ready. In my opinion, the fresh cilantro and the homemade sauce are what make the sandwich.

My Banh Mi (menu here)

My only complaint about the Nhon Hoa I patronize is the lack of seating. The counter shares a space with a BBQ meat seller, and every visit, I marvel at the familiarity of the patrons with the shopkeepers – they’re “coffee shop regulars”, but for smoked pork and duck. I would love to hang out and observe the interactions further. And though I’m content to take my food to a nearby park to eat while it’s still warm, this option won’t exist in the winter months.

If you’re looking for a nice lunch that won’t break the bank (and will actually save you enough money so you can pop into the nearby Italian Bakery to pick up something sweet for dessert), head to Nhon Hoa. You won’t be disappointed.

Nhon Hoa 2
10622 97 Street
(780) 425-3257
Daily 10am-7pm, closed Tuesdays

Food Notes

  • Via Chowhound: Bacon, the eatery known for locally-sourcing ingredients and serving up comfort food favourites, closed as of September 9. Their message indicates that the proprietors may move into a different space in the future, but provide no details.
  • Xtreme Asian Fusion (with a name like that, how can they go wrong?) is hosting their grand opening on September 15. Located at 10508 101 Street, phone (780) 413-3338.
  • Whimsical Cupcakes (14910 45 Avenue) will be offering their first-ever Happy Hour on September 27. Samples of “Ruby”, along with “shots” of milk will be free, and cupcakes will be priced at a discounted $1.75 each.
  • Today was the last day to get discounted early bird tickets to the upcoming Rocky Mountain Wine and Food Festival, running October 22-25 at the Shaw Conference Centre. I think I’ll only end up going if they have coupons for free food and drink tickets in the paper, as per last year.
  • Liane Faulder published her first in a series of many to come about home entertaining. I like the angle (everyday cooks with good ideas), but I hope for two things: that the cooking starts to reflect the change in season around us (this week’s was decidedly summery), and that she features at least one party based in an apartment/condo/similarly small space.
  • Mack told me about two episodes on SmibsTV featuring Poul Mark of Transcend Coffee – worth a look if you want to learn more about the local roaster.
  • For those early risers – McDonald’s is giving away free small cups of coffee for the month of September…between 5 and 7am.
  • Joining Daniel Boulud in Vancouver, Jean-Georges Vongerichten will be opening Market in the new Shangri-La Hotel in January 2009.
  • A related article, about Daniel Boulud’s New York invitation to three of Vancouver’s top chefs – apparently there is more camaraderie between chefs in Vancouver than in Toronto.
  • My friend Caezer introduced Annie and I to the Old Szechuan Restaurant (10703 103 Street) recently. I would never, ever, have wandered into the converted house on my own, and was really surprised to find that it was actually quite busy. We ordered a good cross-section of dishes, all exceptionally spicy, but all prepared quite well. Though I can’t say I’ll be back (even tea couldn’t help alleviate the spice), it was a good reminder to be careful to not always judge a restaurant by its cover.

 

Ma Po Tofu (Echo would be proud that I ordered this)

 

Boiled Lamb (tasted better than it sounds)

 

Diced chicken and peppers (as spicy as it looks)

Not Like I Remembered: Badass Jack’s

Call it the “coupon scramble”. A month and a half left before my Entertainment Book coupons expire, I am trying to plan as many meals as I can around potential discounts. One such saving opportunity was at Badass Jack’s (8621 109 Street), on our way to Pecha Kucha 2 at the TransAlta Arts Barns on Thursday.

One summer a few years ago, I worked just a few blocks from Kingsway Mall, and would make a weekly sojourn to the Badass Jack’s in the shopping centre’s food court. They had a Tuesday deal that couldn’t be beat – one of their small Asian rice bowls (steamed rice  or egg noodles topped with vegetables stir-fried in a sauce of your choice) priced at just $2.50. Since that summer, I haven’t been back to Badass Jack’s, but coupon in hand, it seemed like a good time to see if their past standards held up.

The university-area location was fairly busy when we walked in, seemingly fueled by a combination of customers picking up dinner for the evening or mom and tots heading to dance practice at the studio across the way.

I gravitated straight for the Asian rice bowls, a small priced at $6.99 and a large priced at $7.99 regularly. While on par with places like Wok Box, it seemed a lot steeper than I remembered (caused by inflation and a general rise in food prices, no doubt). Mack and I both requested the same thing – roasted chicken and teriyaki sauce on rice.

Our orders took a few minutes, but after they were ready, we took them to the high counter and sat down. Instead of piling the stir-fried vegetables on top of the rice, which would allow additional sauce to steep down and flavour the rice immediately, white rice greeted us at the top of the box. The chicken, shredded to a point where it almost resembled shards of pulled pork, was good, but I was hard pressed to find pieces large enough to require chewing – Mack was luckier on this front. My order was also a little shy of vegetables, and I ended up with quite a bit of plain rice at the bottom.

Mack with chopsticks

Mack’s Asian rice bowl, mixed

Call it “post-coupon syndrome”, but Badass Jack’s not only didn’t fulfill my memory’s expectations of good food and value for my money, but also now seems all too expensive to try again without a discount.

Badass Jack’s
8621 109 Street (4 other locations in Edmonton)
(780) 438-4083

It’s All About the Fries: Costco

Costco, besides being a mecca for those embroiled in the “SUV culture” (a term Mack taught me just recently), is also a source of irresistibly cheap and delicious carnival food. While their selection isn’t deep (though as of late, they have added both Montreal smoked meat sandwiches and BBQ ribs onto their menu), what they do sell is of colon-sticking good quality.

My default treat is the quarter-pound all-beef hot dog and pop (just $1.99). Even though that amount could buy four hot dogs at Ikea, there is something about a Costco dog (more grease = heartier?) that hits the spot in a way that only inexpensive junk can.

Mack’s pick (and mine, if there are more forks to feast than mine alone) are the fries ($2.15). Deep fried to crispy perfection, they win, hands-down, my award for best fries in the city. While I choose to dunk them in ketchup, Mack claims they are good enough to be eaten unadorned.

Fries and a hot dog from Costco

Though the poutine looks tempting, I would advise avoiding it. The gravy is never hot enough to fully melt the cheese, so one ends up with a styrofoam box filled with fries, gravy and large chunks of cold mozzarella.

The only downside of Costco is the unfortunate need for a membership. But if you enjoy cheap food as much as we do, it’s almost worth the annual fee.

Costco
2616 91st Street (2 others in Edmonton)
(780) 577-1200

Steakhouse Monotony: Chop

May chose Chop (17635 Stony Plain Road NW), the high-end steakhouse belonging to the Moxie’s Group of restaurants, for the site of her birthday dinner on Saturday. She had called in to make a reservation a few days prior, and thankfully so, as it was fairly busy that evening.

I had to wonder why Chop chose the location it did – opting for a building shared alongside the economy Sandman Hotel and a Denny’s. Not the best first impression for a place looking to carve out an identity in the rapidly expanding upscale steakhouse market in Edmonton. I hope their two new branches (one that just opened in Winnipeg and another coming up in Richmond) have more inspiring locales.

Mack and I were the first to arrive, and were promptly shown to a plush leather eight to ten-seater booth. The walls were lined with brown felt, accented by a gorgeous cream orb lamp suspended above our table. The rest of the dining room was dressed in predominantly grey and brown tones in swathes of rectangular divides and columns. Very dim (to the point where the bathrooms were a nice bright refuge), it exuded a much different atmosphere than the more friendly Moxie’s.

As others started to arrive, we shifted around and ended up sitting at a part of the booth that curved. Mack found that it wasn’t designed that evenly – the table could have used a few extra inches on his side. We also found it difficult to have a conversation at ease across the wide table – the sound tended to rise up into the ceiling, and speaking with an indoor voice to be heard was challenging.

Interior aside, I was interested to see how the food at Chop would stack up to the city’s other fashionable steakhouses, including Ruth’s Chris, Ric’s Grill, Lux and Von’s. I was happy to read that sides were included with steak entrees, which was an immediate plus for me (interesting side note – the beef is “Canadian” and not specifically listed to come from Alberta). I ended up ordering the 6oz. Petite Filet Mignon ($29) with wasabi-infused mash potatoes, while Mack decided on the Top Sirloin Oscar ($29) and a starter Caesar ($6).

Our appetizers arrived fairly promptly. I’m not sure why I thought the “puff pastry twist” on Mack’s salad would involve croutons made from the savoury treat, but we were given a literal bread twist, sprinkled with cheese and of course, made from puff pastry. It was great, as was the salad itself (despite being a tad overdressed), flaked with generous shavings of parmesan.

Caesar Salad

When our mains arrived, the buspeople were able to automatically dole out dishes by seat numbers, resulting in a smooth, efficient distribution. As for the plate presentation, I was underwhelmed (especially with Mack’s dish), but that may be my own jaded response to the rather bland visual combination of mashed potatoes, steak, and steamed vegetables. My filet mignon was cooked to my requested medium rare, as was Mack’s sirloin, so no complaints on that side. May and Andres both ordered fish, and they found their entrees to be fairly tasty as well.

Petite Filet Mignon

Top Sirloin Oscar

Macadamia-Crusted Mahi Mahi

Our waitress was great throughout the evening – patient (a necessary virtue when dealing with large groups) and appearing just enough often enough to convey attentiveness without being overbearing, she was even able to secure a complimentary slice of cake for the birthday girl on a dime.

24 Layer Chocolate Cake (looked like a showstopper, but was really just a cake with many layers)

While our entire experience at Chop was reasonably enjoyable, I don’t think there was anything that distinguished Chop from its counterparts, or at least, made it notable. To be fair, this could also be due to the fact that I feel a waning need to dine on expensive steak. So try Chop, but don’t expect anything more than a pricey piece of meat served in dim surroundings.

Chop
17635 Stony Plain Road NW
(780) 487-2467
Monday 11am-11pm, Tuesday-Thursday 11am-12am, Friday 11am-1am, Saturday 4pm-1am, Sunday 4-11pm