Category: restaurant reviews

VIP Treatment: Cactus Club Cafe

After my one-on-one with Rob Feenie back in February, I was looking forward to the spring opening of the Edmonton flagship Cactus Club Cafe in West Edmonton Mall. Turns out, it was worth the wait.

We were invited to attend an exclusive preview reception on Wednesday evening, which was to include samples of some new menu items. What we received, however, was more than I ever expected – a slick eight course tasting menu with unlimited access to alcoholic beverages.

Purveyors of the now ubiquitous “casual upscale” form of dining (CCC just recently wrested the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Award for “Best Casual Chain” from Earls), I know I was pretty impressed with my visit last summer to their Bentall 5 location in Vancouver. More than anything, I found the quality of the food to be leaps and bounds above their competition, so was eager to see if their standards would remain in place, transplanted in a new city.

Driving up to West Edmonton Mall on 88th Avenue, the restaurant is difficult to miss. Many of us wondered why Cactus Club chose to diverge from their competitors by choosing a location away from the always hoppin’ Bourbon Street, but it was clear from the exterior that they had much more control over the design this way. Unfortunately, the restaurant is only accessible from the outside, which may pose a problem for diners walking from the wall in more inclement weather, but for the moment, their ability to provide an outdoor patio will be very attractive to shoppers looking for a post-visit drink.

Cactus Club Cafe

Patio

Walking in, I was immediately greeted by staff, and told that we were free to explore the restaurant. The Director of Operations offered to give us a tour, and we happily accepted. It turns out the space was formerly occupied by an automotive repair shop, but you wouldn’t know it. If Kai Asian Grill cost $2 million to refurbish, we wondered how much Cactus Club spent.

Lounge Interior

I’m not sold on the combination of the medium wood paneling and red leather (I much preferred the sleek dark brown/black colour scheme of Bentall 5), but I get the feeling the designers tried to emulate a more “Western” feel. Mack liked the eye-catching glass wine case, while I was impressed with the art featured on the walls – three Andy Warhols and one Jean Michel Basquiat. The lighting fixtures were also a sight to see – our tablemate compared the “artichoke light” to an Outback Steakhouse Bloomin’ Onion, and the bocci chandelier was almost a waste having been placed in the bathroom corridor.

Restaurant interior (Warhol’s ‘truck’ on the wall)

Artichoke Light

A few members of Edmonton’s foodie community were also on hand to celebrate the launch, including the Journal’s Liane Faulder, and Isabelle of The Little Red Kitchen (watch for reports of the evening on their respective blogs). Of course, Rob Feenie was also present, and Mack pushed me to take a photo with him (I hope not to be remembered as the city blogger who posed for a photo).

With Chef Feenie

We shared a table with Brittney and Kimberley of iNews880, who helped make it a fun and festive evening. Even before we sat down, we were offered drinks by one of the nearly thirty servers on hand (throughout the night, plates and cutlery were distributed, drink orders were taken, and dishes cleared almost instantly – that kind of attentive service would be easy to get used to, but with a server to table ratio of 3:1 that night, it couldn’t be maintained). Our waitress said that a core team had been gathered together from established locations in order to adequately train the staff and ensure a smooth opening. It definitely speaks to the resources of a large chain to have such an efficient process in place.

Just before 7:30pm, the first dish arrived, a beef carpaccio served with five-herb crostini. The peppercorn-crusted tenderloin had been thinly sliced, and worked well with the dijon aioli, pickled shallots and shaved parmesan. I agreed with Britney – it was definitely a dish I wouldn’t order for myself, but I could see a plate being shared among a group.

Beef Carpaccio (lovely presentation with arugula)

My crostini

The tuna tataki was next – seared albacore tuna on a bed of green papaya slaw,orange, avocado and pine nuts. We were a table of non-sushi eaters, so were thrown by the texture of the fish. I have to say I enjoyed the tangy yuzu vinaigrette used on the vegetables, however.

Tuna Tataki

The plate of BBQ duck clubhouse sandwiches, a resounding favorite of Mack, Kimberley and I, was consumed in a flash. This is definitely a dish I would order on a return trip. The duck and prosciutto already elevated the sandwich, but combined with the sweet pecan fruit bread, was better than any sandwich I have tried in recent memory.

BBQ Duck Clubhouse

I had been looking forward to the butternut squash ravioli (the dish I had enjoyed in Vancouver), but perhaps it lost something when made for mass consumption. My serving also didn’t have enough amaretti cookie topping. It seems they also altered the dish somewhat for our branch, as it is served here with seared scallops.

Butternut Squash Ravioli

Rob Feenie’s signature rocket salad, consisting of organic arugula, vine ripened tomatoes, cucumber and a lemon caper dressing atop panko and parmesan-breaded chicken was one of my least favorite dishes. Not being a fan of capers, I found they overpowered the dish. Mack and Brittney found it all right though.

Rocket Salad

I was surprised to find the sake-soy marinated sablefish on the menu – delicate and flavourful, it was a dish I would expect to find not at a casual upscale restaurant, but at a more formal establishment. The fish was perfectly cooked, flaking under my spoon, and accompanied with a warming base of dashi broth (similar to miso soup), was the most impressive course that night.

Sake-Soy Marinated Sablefish

The penultimate course provided us with samples of their braised beef short rib and peppercorn sirloin. The steak had a punchy peppercorn crust, and had been cooked to a nice medium rare, but was a fairly run-of-the-mill dish. The braised short rib, however, was meltingly tender, and the celeriac puree provided a smooth finish.

Peppercorn Sirloin and Braised Beef Short Rib

Dessert was a pat of their chocolate peanut butter crunch bar. Kimberley and I lucked out, as our companions are allergic to peanuts, so we both got to indulge in two servings of rich dark chocolate with a crunchy finish. A spoonful of crushed peanuts on top would have made the dish even better for me.

Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch Bar

Just before we left, we even received a goody bag to take home, containing a bottle of wine, a Cactus Club gift card, and (hurrah for me), a copy of their lunch and dinner menus.

Thanks to the staff of Cactus Club for a great evening – they definitely know how to throw a good party, and ensure their guests feel well taken care of. Based on tonight’s experience, I know I will be back. Cactus Club opens to the public on Thursday, April 23 at 4pm.

Mack’s photoset is here.

Cactus Club Cafe
1946, 8882-170 Street

A Bad Reaction: Sabzy Cafe

Though I do my best to make it back to eateries I’ve written about, sometimes it doesn’t happen until months later, mostly due to timing or geographic location. Sabzy Cafe, a Persian restaurant run by a lovely family I had the privilege of meeting with back in February, was one of those instances. When my sisters and I needed a spot for dinner in the Old Strathcona area to precede our night of fashion, I immediately thought of Sabzy.

We weren’t sure how busy it would be in the evening, so made sure to reserve a table in advance, but it turns out it wasn’t necessary. A few other parties arrived over the course of our stay, but by no means was the restaurant packed. I arrived before my two sisters, and chose the sunny table by the front window.

It’s an oddly designed space, by no fault of the Sabetghadams. With jagged corners and shadowy enclaves, the room can provide diners with a feeling of both privacy and isolation. The multicolored walls, bright with fall shades of deep yellow, purple, and a spring green did help bring some cheer into the cafe, but there was a reason why I was drawn to the windowside table.

Great spot for peoplewatching

Sabzy asserts its casual atmosphere by inviting customers to place their orders with staff at the counter. Though I am not adverse to this (one of my favorite cafes, Leva, is set up this way), the entrée I ordered was definitely priced at an amount where I would expect a different level of service. The kabob platter, with chicken and beef/lamb kabobs was $16.99. My sisters opted for something a bit lighter – the grilled chicken sandwich ($10).

A few minutes later, three glasses and a small jug of water were delivered to us. Our food arrived shortly after – both plates a mirror image of the photos included on the menu. I was happy to find that the meat had been taken off the skewers for me, and that the plate was piled high with a generous serving of full-bodied saffron rice. The chicken kabob was all right (it actually tasted similar to my Mum’s satay), but the lamb really shined – moist, flavourful, and grilled to perfection, I didn’t even miss a potential dipping sauce accompaniment.

Kabob Platter

I loved the mint garnish on the grilled chicken sandwich – a simple but effective way for the kitchen to remind diners of their fresh focus. Amanda found the sandwich good, albeit small (and pricey without an included side dish), but Felicia was left literally with ill feelings. After a single bite, her tongue started to feel fuzzy, and she leapt to ask the staff if the sandwich contained any nuts. Bingo – there were nuts in the pesto spread. The server was actually quite rude to Felicia, as she said this ingredient was listed on the menu – on our double take, we couldn’t locate it at all (ideally, there should be an asterisk next to all items containing the pesto, indicating the nuts used). The kitchen ended up remaking the sandwich, and provided Felicia with a sliced cucumber (which the family’s dad said would help cool the allergic reaction), but she was still itchy and bothered all evening. Needless to say, this left a blemish on our otherwise fair experience.

Grilled Chicken Sandwich

Having interviewed the family behind Sabzy, the fact that they are new to the restaurant industry may have played a part in their mistake, but it is one they will need to rectify straightaway. While I can’t say this situation will prevent me from visiting Sabzy in the future, I can tell you my sister won’t be back anytime soon.

Sabzy Cafe
10416 82 Avenue NW
(780) 758-1005
Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday 11am-9pm, Monday 3-9pm

Not Much of a Reward: Double Greeting Wonton House

After making it through our salsa classes, I figured we deserved a reward of some kind. Logically, we headed to Double Greeting Wonton House.

Exterior

Situated in what Mack referred to as “the ghetto”, the restaurant was just a block away from where our classes were held, so it made sense to make the most of the neighbourhood we were in. The exterior (and the building’s rundown neighbours) weren’t promising, but a few people had told me good things about Double Greeting.

The fluorescent interior was brighter than I had expected to find, and dare I say cleaner as well. Multicolored handwritten signs papered the front counter, while a television tuned to Newsworld maintained the rapt attention of a few older patrons. I liked the wooden fixture that divided the room in half, though Mack couldn’t figure out why.

Yes, they’ve probably never replaced the fabric lining the booths…

We picked a booth near the back of the restaurant and mulled over the menus we were given – the selection was absolutely massive. We both laughed at the front page that read “today’s special”, which, given the laminated nature of the menu, was probably more like “everyday’s special”. That night, I was in the mood for small plates, and decided to choose a few dim sum items to make a meal. Mack said spring rolls were a must ($5.50 for 6), and I added on steamed BBQ pork buns ($3.75 for 2) and pan-fried pork dumplings ($7.50). To round out our dinner, Mack decided he had to try their ginger beef on rice.

The dishes came out at a fairly good pace, and our tea was refilled promptly, so I had no complaints about the service. The quality of the food was another thing, particularly because the prices reflected an amount very similar to other (better situated) Chinese restaurants. The best of the bunch were  the steamed pork buns, and even they weren’t that great – the diced meat wasn’t distinct, and the dough was more crumbly than fluffy. The spring rolls were nothing special, and the dumplings were depressingly tiny (Happy Garden’s dumplings are easily three times that size).

Steamed Pork Buns

Spring Rolls (they always get a thumbs up from Mack)

Pan-fried Pork Dumplings

The ginger beef on rice was the most disappointing of all – overly sticky and artificially sweet, Mack, the supreme lover of ginger beef, couldn’t even finish the plate.

Ginger Beef on Rice (angle inspired by are you gonna eat that)

Based on that visit, I likely wouldn’t return again, particularly when a ten minute walk would yield many more viable eateries in Chinatown proper.

Double Greeting Wonton House
10212 96 Street NW
(780) 424-2486
Sunday-Thursday 10am-12am, Friday-Saturday 10am-1am

Gems are Always Tiny: Boualouang

I had been warned that Boualouang, a Thai and Laos eatery in Chinatown, was tiny, but I wasn’t prepared for a space that likely wasn’t ever meant to be a restaurant. Dickson and I intentionally planned a late meal, and arrived at Boualouang at 1pm in an attempt to avoid the lunch rush, and were lucky enough to snag the last of six tables.

As our table was nudged right up against the door, we were both thankful that it wasn’t –30 outside – as it stands, their heating bill must be astronomical. Of course, having seen evidence of a larger storefront about two blocks down 97th Street, I was assured Boualouang would be relocating soon (perhaps April?), and given the number of parties the waitress had to turn away during our stay, I’m sure the move isn’t soon enough.

Dickson in Boualouang (yes, the restaurant is just three tables deep)

I had heard from others that their curries were a must-try, so decided on the Gaeng-Kiew-Vahn, a green curry and coconut milk with mushrooms, green peppers, sweet basil and chicken ($12.95), and upgraded the steamed rice accompaniment to coconut rice for an additional $1.50. We also had to try our benchmark Thai dish – the pad thai with shrimp ($13.95).

From the pace that the dishes were being delivered to the other tables, we knew we were in for a wait. Given the size of the dining room, we could only guess the size of the kitchen. A half hour after putting in our order, our green curry arrived. It was definitely worth the wait – the heat was balanced perfectly with the tang provided by the kaffir leaves, and the chicken was meltingly tender. Paired with the richness of coconut rice, we would have easily given up the pad thai for a second helping of curry.

Green Curry with Chicken

The pad thai was presented in a nice reflective bowl lined with lettuce and garnished with orange slices. Both of us were surprised at how deep the dish was, but could have done without the slight pool of grease at the bottom of it. I liked the use of a broader noodle than most Thai eateries, and neither of us had anything negative to say about the pad thai as a whole, except that it didn’t wow us like its curry predecessor.

Pad Thai

Though we made it back out through the doors a little later than we had planned, uncovering another gem was well worth it. I will be back to give the rest of the curries a try.

Boualouang
10669 97 Street
(780) 423.4207
Monday – Saturday 11am-9pm

Variety to Spare: Habesha

Mack tolerates my slight fixation with killing several birds with one stone. Borne out of my reliance on public transportation and walking as my main modes of travel, I do my best to make the most of my trips to areas of the city outside of my usual commute.

Following our jaunt to Seedy Sunday at the Alberta Avenue Community Hall, Mack didn’t flinch when I said there would be a planned stop at the nearby Habesha for lunch. I had read a review last year in the Journal about this new restaurant, and Liane Faulder has made mention of it several times over the last few months (Habesha now offers a vegetarian/vegan buffet on Wednesday nights). Though I’ve sampled Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine before (at the Heritage Festival, for example), I’ve never before had a sit-down meal, so was eager to be exposed to a greater variety of food.

The interior of Habesha was larger than we expected from our external assessment. A long room was divided into a reception/coffee ceremony area, a second section dominated by the bar, and a third area functioned as the main dining room populated with a few tables. For a restaurant with many windows, the interior was surprisingly dim, so I was glad that our self-directed table hugged a window, with the option of being enclosed by a curtain fashioned on a curved bar that reminded me of a shower rod. There were two other parties present – and both embodied the relaxed, comfortable vibe of a restaurant that invited diners to stay awhile.

Mack looking relaxed and comfortable, and Twittering, of course

The owner (and sole waitress) brought us glasses of water and menus. We looked over the pages, divided into vegetarian, chicken and beef sections, and didn’t know where to begin. When she returned to take our order, we asked for her recommendations. She pointed us to the “combination” plates ($14.99 per person), and we decided to sample one beef and one vegetarian combination.

We weren’t sure how long our food would take, as it wasn’t clear whether or not our lone server was also the restaurant’s lone staff member, but thankfully, our dish arrived not too long after our order was placed. A circular platter lined with injera and dotted with multicolored meat, lentil and vegetable dishes was placed before us, accompanied by another small basket of injera. The soft, spongy bread is the main utensil in Ethiopian/Eritrean cuisine (similar in use to Indian chapatti), and explained the lack of forks and knives on our table.

Combination beef and vegetarian plate for two

Having tried injera several times now, I have to say I’m still not used to the sour taste of the bread, or to the fact that it is served cold. On the other hand, I immensely enjoyed the dishes themselves – the shiro wat (sun dried peas) were fantastic, with just a hint of spice, but so satisfying, and the fosolia – string bean and carrot mixture – was simple yet tasty. Mack liked the kei wot (prime beef stewed in spicy red sauce), though I know we both found most of the cubed meat rather tough. The spice level varied in the dishes (for example, the red lentil misser wot packed much more zing than the mellower yellow version), so the entire sample provided a nice spectrum of heat. In all, we found the combination plate was a great way to sample over ten different dishes, and with such a large portion size, ended up with enough food to take for lunch the next day.

When our server came back to check on us, she was taken aback by the food that remained. I couldn’t tell if she took the quantity of leftovers personally, but she mock-threatened not to pack it up for us unless we promised to eat it all. We did, but her guilt really wasn’t necessary, and left our experience a bit off because we hadn’t developed the necessary rapport for that kind of exchange.

Regardless of our end note, I would recommend Habesha as a good venue to experiment with Ethiopian/Eritrean cuisine, and like The Dawg Father before it, I am glad that there is one more restaurant to add to the “destination Alberta Avenue” list.

Habesha
9511 118 Avenue NW
(780) 474-2206
Monday-Thursday 4-10pm, Friday 4pm-2am, Saturday 12pm-2am, Sunday 12-11pm

Professional but not Pretentious: Hardware Grill

While his parents were visiting Edmonton last week, Mack wanted to treat them to an experience unobtainable in Yellowknife, so we looked to the upper echelons of the city’s dining rafters and decided upon the Hardware Grill.

My one experience there several years ago was a positive one, but my memory of it is faint with the exception of an impression of excellent service. Being one of the priciest establishments in the city, however, meant that Hardware Grill is definitely a destination restaurant.

We walked in right on time for our early 5:30pm reservation, and were immediately greeted by a hostess and an attendant who relieved us of our coats and hats. We were led to a table in the main dining room with a view of the bar and the kitchen, angled in a way that we could also catch a glimpse of the stunning wine cellar. In terms of the interior, there isn’t much to say that would distinguish it from other wood-and-stone accented rooms, but their simple elegance speaks volumes about the type of experience the restaurant desires the customer to have.

Our waiter appeared with menus in hand, including a wine list with over 500 options. We were puzzled with a line at the bottom of the menu that indicated that “Hardware Grill prefers payment in cash or cheque”, as we weren’t sure how many diners would be carrying several hundred dollars in their wallet, but other than that, the menu was identical to the one found on the website. I must say that I love the detail in their menu – some restaurants choose not to list all of the accompanying sides and garnishes, but Hardware does, and I appreciate it.

The laundry list of appetizers we ordered was as follows: Martin the duck confit ($14), Patti the warm goat cheese ($14) fritters, Mack the bacon wrapped scallops ($18) and the chanterelle risotto ($14) for me. As for entrees, Martin selected the rack of lamb ($42), Patti the Alberta beef tenderloin ($48), Mack the porcini-crusted sea bass ($48) and I the soy-lacquered duck ($36). We were in for a lot of food.

Bread service involved a basket of a variety of slices including (yum) herbed cheese biscuits. Although the restaurant claims to bake the bread fresh twice daily, it reached us stone cold. I think Mack and I will have to start making a list of restaurants (besides chains such as the Olive Garden, East Side Mario’s and the Old Spaghetti Factory) that actually serve warm bread.

Bread service

When our starters arrived, we were all surprised at how much food we were given – portion sizes were much larger than what we originally anticipated. Patti loved the combination of flavours in her salad – with the interplay of hazelnuts, dates and beets complementing the warm goat cheese fritters nicely. Mack had been looking forward to the bacon-wrapped scallops all week, and they delivered. I’m sure he could have eaten several in place of his entree if allowed. My risotto was good (the aroma of the chanterelles was lovely), but between the pearl onions and the candied bacon, I felt the dish was a little lost, and that the Unheardof version was better.

Crispy Duck Leg Confit, Grilled Polenta Cake, Forest Mushrooms, with Port and Pomegranate Relish

Warm Goat Cheese Fritters, Baby Romaine with Pomegranate Vinaigrette, Medjool Dates, Toasted Hazel Nuts and Baby Beets

Bacon Wrapped Atlantic Scallops, English Pea Ravioli, Sweet Onion and Red Wine Reduction, Tomato Marmalade

Winter Chanterelle Risotto with Mascarpone and Asiago Cheese, with Port and Candied Bacon

Plates were cleared, more wine was consumed, and by no time, our entrees arrived. Both Martin and Patti’s meats were cooked to their expectation (even though Martin’s lamb looked to be a little on the raw side), and both were really happy with their dishes. Patti especially loved the beets, one of her favourite vegetables. Mack’s seafood medley continued with his sea bass and lobster-truffled potato crepes, the latter of which stood out for him. I was was thankful that the kitchen took the time to slice up my duck breast – it definitely made it easier to eat, but it seems I couldn’t consume it fast enough to prevent the meat from drying out. I loved the crisp layer of skin and fat – a little bit of indulgence goes a long way. I wasn’t sure about the butternut-pear hash, but it turned out the pear was a good choice, as the sweetness played off the savoury duck and venison shepherd’s pie well.

Demi Roasted Lamb Rack, Cassoulet Style White Beans with Duck, Lamb & Bacon, Served with Zucchini “Spaghetti”

Alberta Beef Tenderloin, Smoked Mashed Potatoes, Baby Beets, Carrots, Short Rib “Yorkie” and Horseradish Crème Fraiche

Porcini Crusted Sea Bass, Lobster-Truffled Potato Crêpes, White Corn-Arugula & Gulf Prawns, with Warm Portobello Vinaigrette

Soya Lacquered Duck Breast with Shepherds Pie, Pear-Butternut Hash, Pine Nuts and Fig-Balsamic Sauce

Though we all claimed to be full, we weren’t able to pass on dessert (encouraged by this statement on the menu, how could you blame us: “Just dive in and swim through the calories,
happy as a clam”). Martin and Patti split the warm gingerbread cake ($11), while Mack and I shared the classic profiteroles ($11). At the time, I mistakenly thought we would have been brought mini Italian doughnuts (beignets), but the cream puff-like sandwiches turned out to be a good choice. Served with espresso ice cream and hot fudge sauce, they were a not-too-decadent ending to our meal. Patti loved the gingerbread cake – it smelled and tasted like Christmas.

Classic Profiteroles

Warm Prairie Gingerbread Cake

I found the entire meal wonderfully paced. We were done our three courses by 8pm, but never felt rushed or like we were looking for the next course. Service was also commendable – our waiter was superb – personable, demonstrating a sense of humor that put us at ease, but never stepping over that boundary of becoming too informal. I realized that although Hardware Grill is labeled as a “fine dining” restaurant, without the pomp and circumstance of announcing each dish as it is delivered, the entire experience was entirely comfortable and never felt pretentious or stuffy.

While the Hardware Grill is not an off-the-cuff dining choice, it provided exactly what we were looking for that night – a high-end venue, great food, attentive service, and an experience that facilitated a memorable evening of conversation.

Hardware Grill
9698 Jasper Avenue, Edmonton
(780) 423-0969
Monday-Saturday 5pm-close

Bloomin’ Fail: Outback Steakhouse

Mack’s parents were in town for a week, and wanted to treat a few of us to dinner on Friday. Originally intending to snag a table at the Keg, the wait of eighty-five minutes ended up being too much to bear, so the group settled on the nearby Outback Steakhouse. The venue was likely a better choice anyway, as we had a two-year old amongst us.

The Outback had never occurred to me as a go-to choice for steak. Not that I am one to eat steak all that often anyway, but having passed by their three locations in the city more times that I can count, I can say that nothing has ever implored me to step inside their doors. Their set-up is very family and group oriented, in a casual way reminiscent of other run-of-the-mill chains like Boston Pizza and Kelsey’s. I liked the wooden fixtures and spot lighting, things I didn’t expect to find. For a Friday night, it actually was not busy at all – there were quite a few tables that sat empty throughout the night, probably not a good sign, even though a Western Canadian representative just reiterated how strong the Edmonton market is (Outback just closed nine locations in Ontario).

Menu-wise, crowd-pleasing entrees including steak, sandwiches, pastas and salads didn’t do much to make Outback unique in the sea of chains, with the exception of some silly dish names. Highlights include: Kookaburra Wings and Mac-A-Roo ’N Cheese. I have to think that the restaurant came to be during the Crocodile Dundee era, with someone assuming Americans would jump at the opportunity to immerse themselves in Aussie slang. That said, the prices were fairly reasonable – Mack’s 6oz. Sirloin with Grilled Lobster Tail Combo ran $24.95, while the 10oz. prime rib that Martin and Tom ordered was $22.75. I was craving a burger that night, and decided the All-In ($14.95) would best suit my needs, and customized it with bacon, swiss, lettuce and tomatoes. The Bloomin’ Onion ($8.75), described as being “hand-carved by a dedicated bloomologist” intrigued us after we found out that the chain sells over 15 million a year.

Our server showed herself to be promising, and didn’t waiver too much over the night, given that we were a fairly needy group. My biggest complaint had to do with the wait for our mains – though it likely had to do with the size of our group, I saw many late-seated tables around us receiving entrees even before our appetizer arrived.

The Bloomin’ Onion was just that – a giant onion that has been cut-up to look like a flower, battered, then deep-fried whole so that it retains its shape. As a result, the onion-ring like morsels also retain much of the grease that would normally be shaken off in a fryer basket, but boy, did it taste good. Mack disagreed though, and didn’t eat many more than a few petals. It is definitely meant to be shared amongst a large group though.

 

Bloomin’ Onion

Our entrees were nothing special – Mack thought his steak and lobster were unexceptional, and that the latter could have been much better. My burger was pretty standard, bordering on dry. Though it was my choice to decide on that dish, I kept thinking about how the burgers over at Red Robin’s are a much better comparable deal. I also couldn’t figure out what made the accompanying Aussie fries “Aussie”, besides a dash of what looked like pepper.

 

Sirloin with Grilled Lobster Tail

 

All-In Burger with Aussie Fries

Before we left, our waitress inundated us with eight 2-for-1 coupons, good for dinners between Monday and Thursdays. While it seemed like a nice gesture, there was a whiff of desperation to the hand-out. I’m not sure we’d be interested in returning anyway, even with the discount.

Outback Steakhouse
12832 137 Avenue NW, Edmonton (two other locations)
(780) 457-4702

Neighbourhood Bistro: The Dish

I consider The Dish Mack’s neighbourhood bistro. Just a two minute walk from his apartment, it’s surprising that last week was our first visit there together since he moved into the area a year ago. We needed a quick bite prior to a show on Tuesday, and craving their brand of comfort food as I wasn’t feeling too well, we headed out the door.

It was surprisingly busy for a random weekday, so I was a little worried that we would end up late for the theatre. However, service was actually quite brisk, and we made it out the door with time to spare. We both ordered off the specials sheet, seasonally tailored for cool winter evenings. I decided on the Deep Dish Quiche with a side of Creamy Tomato Basil Soup ($14), while Mack chose the Chicken Pot Pie and a side of Caesar Salad ($15).

I loved the interior of the restaurant the first time I set foot in it, and that affection hasn’t changed. The creaky wooden floors, the well-worn furniture, and the dim, intimate lighting sets the tone for a cozy and inviting space. And despite the risk of high noise levels (there isn’t any soft materials present to help with sound absorption), something about the small tables that draw patrons inward still provide a semblance of privacy for dining parties.

Our food arrived promptly, and I think I had dish envy as soon as I saw Mack’s pie. He let me steal a bite of the pie (and puff pastry), and it tasted as good as it looked. He didn’t care so much for the visually appealing nature of the diagonally-placed strips of pastry though, as he prefers his pie crust solidly attached to the dish.

Chicken Pot Pie

I thought the kitchen was a bit frugal on my quiche, but it was good all the same. The havarti, spinach, sundried tomato and caramelized red onion combined well with the light and airy baked egg, and I appreciated the finish of parmesan shards on top. The soup was a little on the tart side for my palate, but served its inner-warming purpose on my plate.

Deep Dish Quiche

I am looking forward to their menu change come spring, and to perhaps finally get a peek at their well-known “secret garden” patio.

The Dish
12417 Stony Plain Road NW
Edmonton, AB
(780) 488-6641

I couldn’t drive by: Peters’ Drive-In

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

Is there any better way to end a trip to Calgary than by making a stop at Peters’ Drive-In? I don’t think so – the historic drive-in is a must-visit for anyone passing through our neighbour to the south. Sharon and I stopped at Peters’ for a late lunch before making the drive back to Edmonton.

We each ordered a cheeseburger ($3.60) and decided to share an order of fries. I asked for a large, but was warned that it could feed 4-5 people! I think I make that mistake every time I visit Peters’. We went with the small fries ($3.00) though it was still almost too big for the two of us. Sharon ordered a Coke, while I couldn’t resist a banana milkshake ($4.50). Our order was called out to the very busy kitchen, and though it seemed as though no one paid any attention, we only had to wait a few minutes.

It was a beautiful assortment of fast food:

Mack @ Peter's

Don’t let the “fast food” scare you, though. Peters’ boasts fresh, flame-broiled burgers made with 100% Canadian grade “A” ground chuck, fries cooked in cholesterol free, trans-fat free, 100% pure canola oil, and milkshakes made with real ice cream and real fruit. Their trivia card says they peel more than 35,000 pounds of fresh bananas each year!

The long line-up of cars and people can seem daunting, but don’t let that sway you – plan a stop at Peters’ on your next trip to Calgary. You won’t be disappointed!

Peters’ Drive-In
219 – 16th Avenue NE (map)
Calgary, AB
(403) 277-2747
Open 9am – Midnight, every day

The “Diner Sprint”: Dairy Lane Cafe

As I continue to bemoan the lack of Diners, Drive Ins and Dives-worthy diners in Edmonton, I do my best to try and strike another diner off my list every time I am in Calgary.

Of all places, I discovered Dairy Lane Cafe within the pages of Where Calgary.  After checking out the website, I convinced Mack that it should take the coveted “Sunday morning brunch” slot of our weekend eating adventure.

Dairy Lane exterior

Though we intended on getting to Dairy Lane earlier, by the time we checked out from the hotel and arrived in the West Hillhurst community, it was already 11am. It wasn’t looking good, as there were already a number of people hovered around the door outside. To make the wait more bearable, however, Dairy Lane (like Diner Deluxe) offers hot coffee to patient patrons.

A sign told us to head on in to report the size of our party, and when we did, we were greeted by a friendly server who gently broke it to us that the wait was around forty-five minutes. Having been used to such demand, we had our information taken, including our phone number. He promised to call when a table was ready (long distance, mind you!) and said that we would have five minutes to claim it. We assured him that we wouldn’t wander far.

Hillhurst is a neighbourhood adjacent to Kensington, so we figured a leisurely stroll to work up our appetite was in order. We planned a twenty-minute walk each way, and after peering in the windows of Janice Beaton Fine Cheese (it wouldn’t open until noon that day, unfortunately), we turned around to head back.

At 11:30, we were still a number of blocks from our destination when Mack’s cell phone rang – our table was ready! In what will now be called the “diner sprint”, we ran just about the rest of the distance back to ensure our table wouldn’t be lost. Thankfully, we made it, so our unexpected exercise wasn’t in vain.

The interior of the cafe was tiny – only 22 seats, but so charming. Cheerful yellow walls reflected the optimistic spring conditions outside, and black and white prints reminded patrons of the diner’s 1950s roots. Dairy Lane is proudly powered by 100% carbon-free energy, and 5% of their sales are donated to the Highbanks Society, an organization committed to assisting young single parent families. Talk about a diner with a conscience.

Interior

I couldn’t resist the Swiss and Bacon Stuffed French Toast ($10.95), while Mack chose the All-In Three Egg Omelette ($12.95), with veggies, bacon, ham, Spolumbo’s sausage and cheese. Of course, we topped our order off with coffee, which was consistently being refilled to a standard that Mack approved of.

Though we imagined the kitchen to be fairly small (sized-appropriate to the dining room), we didn’t have to wait long for our plates. A supersized container of maple syrup was provided to me, which Mack was more excited about than I was. The swiss had been sprinkled with a heavy hand, and combined with the slightly salty back bacon, the light and eggy French toast, and a touch of syrupy-sweetness, I was in brunch heaven. If I don’t make it back to Calgary some time soon, I may have to learn to duplicate their recipe at home.

Savoury Stuffed French Toast with home-cut hashbrowns

Mack liked his omelette just fine, though he said it wasn’t the best he’d ever had (Galaxie Diner still tops his list). He did say that it was thicker than he expected, and the kitchen definitely didn’t scrimp on the ingredients.

All-In Omelette with home-cut hashbrowns and toast

Dairy Lane is a great diner with great intentions. I’ll be back.

Dairy Lane Cafe
319 19 Street NW
(403) 283-2497
Monday-Friday 7am-3pm, Weekends and Holidays 8am-3pm