Deliciously Trendy: MRKT

Though there has been some mainstream and blogosphere buzz around MRKT, Carla Alexander and restauranteur Sal Dimaio’s newest venture, it still seems to have that “hidden gem” status. This may partly have to do with a lack of aggressive signage at street level (a sandwich board is the only obvious pointer to the restaurant’s existence upstairs), or, up until this point, a lack of formal marketing, but there is something refreshing about an organic growth of customers linked to positive word-of-mouth recommendations. It seems to be a trend in the city as of late, with Duchess and Elm Café having developed their clientele in a similar fashion.

I was happy to finally sample MRKT’s fare last week, having set a lunch date with Ellen (who funnily enough works in the same office as I do, but separated by a floor, means that we hardly ever run into each other).

While MRKT didn’t turn out to be the best place for those on a tight schedule, we didn’t mind the wait as it gave us time to catch up. There were about eight people in front of us, and with that queue of food orders, it was twenty-five minutes before we had plates in front of us.

I loved the décor. When I initially saw photos of the wood paneled walls, I was afraid it would be too dim and imposing. But it was quite the opposite, with the fun curved paneling and two skylights, the atmosphere felt warm and inviting. The communal table (while a little more utilitarian than FARM’s wood version) and blackboard menu also reminded me of FARM, and with their Edison lights (the first in Edmonton!), this interior is probably the trendiest in the city.

Interior

Similar to Soul Soup (Carla’s first restaurant venture), there were three soup options. In addition to soup were three sandwiches, a special and desserts (keep up to date with their daily menu items on MRKT’s Twitter account). Ellen and I both opted for a soup and sandwich combo($13). We both chose the meat soup, a spicy Italian meatball, but deviated on the sandwich orders.

The only blip was the the ordering system – we placed our orders at the counter, and then sat down to wait for our food. But instead of calling out orders (which, I would imagine, would be difficult given the din of the room during the lunch rush), we had to go up to the counter to periodically check to see if our order was up. Sure, a minor inconvenience, but making our way around the narrow tables wasn’t effortless.

The food, however, was everything I had hoped for – comforting, tasty, and made with care. Ellen and I both loved the meatballs in the soup, but had hoped for more than a halfhearted kick, especially from something billed as “spicy”. She really enjoyed her oven roasted tomato, basil and arugula sandwich, noting that she liked the choice of asiago cheese.

Roasted tomato sandwich

My braised Alberta beef sandwich was something that still haunts me today, the combination of tender shredded beef, edam, caramelized onions and pesto taunting me to find something equally as memorable and delicious. I loved that the bread soaked up the tomato sauce the beef had been braised in, ensuring every bite was moist and further punched up with flavour.

Braised beef sandwich

I was happy to see on their blackboard that MRKT is also open for dinner now (and fortuitously, Marianne posted her review yesterday, and had good things to say). It’s the type of restaurant that would transform in the evening into a charming, intimate venue – extending its daytime commitment of friendly staff and good food. What are you waiting for?

MRKT
10542 Jasper Avenue
(780) 757-6758
Lunch: Monday-Saturday 11am-2pm
Dinner: Wednesdays-Saturdays, 5pm-late

(Almost) No Bones About It: Thanh Son

For our routine pho lunch, Dickson and I headed west to Thanh Son this time, away from Chinatown. We had attempted a visit once before, but unfortunately it was closed (as many Asian eateries are on Tuesdays). This time, we planned for a Wednesday, and found the restaurant empty on arrival. Only four other parties joined us during our hour long stay.

The decor was basic, but it was clean, and I did like the wooden booth that had been erected around the cash register.

Interior

The menu, appealingly enough, offered some unique options when it came to Vietnamese/Chinese cuisine – namely, they didn’t offer green onion cakes, which forced me to search out a different appetizer. We settled on a pork and shrimp pancake ($5.50). It was a tasty combination of starch, meat and seafood, but we both found it a bit oily and were left wishing for more filling.

Pork and shrimp pancake

The pho bowls, with the usual range of meat options, were more inexpensive than any other restaurant I’ve been to, starting at just $5.50. Unfortunately, the cheap price point shone through in our order. The beef slices became tough and chewy in the soup before long, and though the broth smelled great, wasn’t actually that flavourful.

House special beef combo noodle soup ($6.95)

Medium rare beef and beef tendon noodle soup ($5.95)

Service was all right, and the food was delivered in a timely manner, but we agreed that next time, we’d venture back into Chinatown to satisfy our pho craving. Dickson’s rating: 3 soup bones out of 5 (I convinced Dickson he needed a ratings scale, so devised a “soup bones” measure with a maximum score of five).

Thanh Son
11012 107 Ave
(780) 425-8912

Last Patio Days of Summer: TZiN

I’ve been looking for an excuse to return to TZiN – the chic little wine bar on 104 Street – for some time. Though Mack and I are really lucky to live in an area where we have plenty of restaurant choices, I find that if we’re in our neighbourhood, we will inevitably dine in.

That said, meeting up with Annie this week was just the reason I needed to revisit TZiN. Though I love the swank interior, especially cozy as the weather cools off, we decided to make the most of the last days of summer and sat out on the patio (I have to comment that their furniture was particularly comfortable – notable when a lot of patio furniture is too hard, awkward, or not meant for dawdling).

Kelsey, always pleasant and knowledgeable, took good care of us wine-wise. I was happy with my easy to drink Gewurztraminer, and Annie (who has been working her way through Spanish reds), enjoyed her generous glass of Gine Gine.

Wine on the patio!

Several items on the menu were tempting (making me think I’d like to be back again before the menu changes again), but I ended up ordering the sirloin and rosemary crostinis ($18.50) and Annie the creamy chili prawns ($17)

Though the items were listed on a “tasting menu”, I’d have to say the dishes didn’t quite fit that billing – they were too large to be considered just a “taste”, and yet, were missing a component to be deemed a full entrée – a side salad to accompany my crostini would have made it a full meal, while some pasta or rice underneath Annie’s shrimp would have lovingly soaked up the creamy, rich sauce. Annie was also hoping for an vegetable side to complement our eats.

Creamy chili prawns

That said, we did enjoy the food. Annie’s prawns were well cooked, and my crostini were topped with a tasty combination of sautéed mushrooms and onions, cheese, marinated sirloin and a delicious spread.

Sirloin and rosemary crostini

When we paid our bill, Kelsey fanned out thin strips of paper, and beckoned us to take one. It turned out they were little fortunes for us to take away. Mine read: “Listen closely as those around you speak; great truths are revealed in jest.” -Javan

At some point, it probably would have been wise for me to have warmed up inside (Annie had to lend me her jacket), but I was stubbornly grasping at the faint wisps of the season. No matter – with a dwindling number of patio days remaining in the calendar year, it was worth the slight chill to be outside.

TZiN
10115 104 Street
(780) 428-8946
Tuesday-Thursday 3:59-11:03pm, Friday-Saturday 4:01pm-12:06am

Hot Dogs and Burgers and Fries, Oh My: Delux Burger Bar

Though I’ve been keeping afloat of the series of Celebrity Chef burgers at Delux, none of them have really captured my attention, at least not enough for me to make an effort to trek down to Crestwood to try it. But this month’s poutine burger? Stop the presses.

We took Che Bechard’s creation for the month of August as an excuse to check out Delux’s second location in Edmonton, located on the always-hopping Bourbon Street in West Edmonton Mall (it also worked out that I was also able to satisfy my curiosity at Victoria’s Secret – I wanted to see what the hype was all about).

Though many, if not most, of Bourbon Street eateries offer takeout, Delux is the most aggressive, with an eye-catching D2Go order window.

D2Go

On the other hand, I didn’t find the interior of this Delux appealing at all. Independent of one another, the waiting area with its cocktail tables, a communal seating area, and generous booths are all right, but put together, the entire space lacks a visual flow, apparent especially when compared with the neighbouring Earls. The plaid patterns on the walls and the billboard photos plastered on the ceiling also seem unnecessary, further cluttering the room.

Mack at Delux

We chose to sit at the bar for immediate service, and it turned out to be an excellent choice. Alvin was our waiter that night, and boy, was he on the ball. Between drink orders, he managed to take good care of us – consistently refilling my water glass, letting us know about the progress of our food order, checking in on us periodically – just superb service all around.

The Nathan’s Famous hot dog sliders ($10) we had opted to start with were also a great choice. We both remarked that the dogs were some of the best we’ve ever had – moist and bursting with flavour. I wasn’t a fan of the toasted bun, but the chipotle ketchup and caramelized onions were tasty additions. The sliders are on special for $2 on Wednesdays…a dangerous deal if I lived or worked closer to a Delux.

Hot dog sliders

As for the main event? The first few bites of the poutine burger ($10), ripe with special sauce, fries, and curd cheese, were delicious. But as we made our way through it, we realized we would both be ultimately defeated by its richness, and that sharing one between the two of us would have been the better way to go.

Poutine burger

You still have a few days left to try out the poutine burger – but if you miss it, don’t worry – you can find some solace in the hot dog sliders.

Delux Burger Bar
1755 170 Street, West Edmonton Mall (one other location)
(780) 487-3589

Pre-Theatre Dining: Packrat Louie

I had a bit of a harrowing end to my Friday last week, and as a result, made the game-time decision of foregoing a home cooked meal in favour of eating out. As we had tickets to a show at the Varscona, and would be taking public transit, dining at the neighbouring Packrat Louie just made sense.

I haven’t been to the restaurant in a while, but in the past, have found them to be quite consistent, in both service and food. When we arrived, we asked if they could accommodate an hour-long meal – I’m sure it wasn’t an unusual request (located in the theatre district an all), and we were ushered inside the cool, air conditioned dining room.

I’ve said before how much I love their brick walls and posh setting with elegant furniture and white tablecloths. I still have to wonder about their decision to top every table with butcher paper though – not only is it wasteful (our table lining was drenched with condensation rings almost immediately), I think they detract from the room’s natural elegance.

Interior

Our server had already been informed about our post-meal plans, and was certainly efficient in ensuring our orders were seen through to the kitchen, but I have to wonder if the time pressure didn’t translate into his abrupt, almost dismissive actions with us. But I guess you probably can’t have it both ways – either a extended stay, or a curt server.

As I’ve fallen into favour with ordering several small plates instead of individual entrees, we ended up sharing three dishes between the two of us. It’s worth noting that the food, besides being delivered impressively fast, was absolutely piping hot.

The lamb crepe was sensational. Braised and tender, the meat just melted into the soft crepe. The added texture of the smoked Portobello mushrooms, and the savoury sauce drizzled overtop enhanced the dish even further.

Lamb crepe

The duck Wellington was significantly less successful. Where the lamb had been perfectly cooked and flavourful, the duck had been stripped of moisture to the point of being gristly. Where the meat should have been the star of the show, we found ourselves thankful that at least the puff pastry was edible.

Brome Lake duck Wellington

The spicy Hawaiian pizza was mostly good – Mack would have preferred a little more bacon (when doesn’t he?), but as a whole, liked the balance between the smokiness from the bacon and the heat from the banana peppers. We both agreed, however, that they shouldn’t have used canned pineapple – apart from the wood-fired crust, what else would distinguish their product from that of a pizza delivery service?

Spicy Hawaiian pizza

In the end, we were impressed by their ability to prepare and serve our meals within our requested time frame. As pre-theatre dining goes, Packrat Louie will continue to be one of the most convenient and solid choices for patrons.

Packrat Louie
10335 83 Avenue
(780) 433-0123
Lunch: Monday-Saturday 11:30am-3pm; Dinner: Monday-Thursday 3-10pm, Friday-Saturday 3-11pm

Alberta Backstage Culinary Dinner at Wild Tangerine

I sometimes wonder what tourists that visit Edmonton ultimately think of the city. Festival central? Expansive river valley? Pedestrian unfriendly? Dominated by big box stores (and a monolithic mall)?

I suppose a lot of it comes down to what the visitors are interested in (and as a result, what they seek out), and who, if anyone, recommends certain attractions over others. For that reason, I was delighted to be asked (alongside Mack) by Bin of the Edmonton Economic Development Corporation to attend a dinner at Wild Tangerine two weeks ago to “share my Edmonton” with travel writers from other parts of Canada, the United States and Germany. Chef Ned Bell (of Cabana in Kelowna) was leading the group of six writers through Alberta over an eight day period.

We received the journalists’ itinerary a few days before the function. They would be on the second (and final) night of a whirlwind tour of the Edmonton area. Their time in the city was jam-packed, including stops at the Yellowhead Brewery, dinner at Skinny Legs and Cowgirls, a walk through the Victoria Promenade, a visit to the Little Potato Company, and a drive to Pigeon Lake for lunch at Eco Cafe.

I realize how time is of the essence, and geographically speaking, that not all attractions are in close proximity to one another, but remembering my own experiences on a Contiki tour bus in Europe, I know I would have preferred more time exploring by foot instead of traveling from place to place by vehicle, and based on their comments that night, they would have liked the same. Given the amount of time they spent driving in circles as well (Judy Love Rondeau, the Travel Alberta liaison on the trip, is originally from Edmonton, but has been living in Texas for several years now, and while Ned spent many years in Calgary, he wasn’t at all familiar with Edmonton), it was curious why EEDC didn’t arrange for a local guide for the Edmonton leg of the trip. Mack and I also had to wonder why at least one of the meals weren’t scheduled for Wildflower Grill, given the guests were staying at the Matrix Hotel, and Nathin Bye’s award-winning reputation (he earned the top prize at the Gold Medal Plates in 2009).

As for our dinner at Wild Tangerine, Wilson and Judy pulled out all the stops. They closed the restaurant off, and presented a meal comprised partly of dishes off their regular menu, but mostly conceived just for this function, utilizing ingredients purchased at the City Market as a means of highlighting our local bounty.

I am all for supporting local producers (Madison’s Grill is one of my favourite restaurants partly because of their commitment to area farmers), and Wild Tangerine is a good example of another Edmonton restaurant with ties to Alberta producers, an off-menu meal isn’t the best representation of what tourists – on a random weekday – would be able to order. One of the journalists said as much, noting that she wouldn’t be able to focus on dishes that her readers would be unable to ask for.

My only other grievance was the lack of producer names on the menu. Wilson chose to go the route of listing where the product had come from in place of the farm name (Leduc instead of Greens, Eggs and Ham, for instance – something I know the regular Wild Tangerine menu does as well). Perhaps this was borne out of a necessity to appease writers who would be overwhelmed by the names of individual producers, but especially having sourced many of the ingredients from the City Market, they should have emphasized the sheer breadth of local producers they used.

That said, Judy is an absolutely amazing chef, and the meal showcased her kitchen abilities above all else. Ned was particularly impressed that the menu was conceived after a routine walk through down the aisles of the City Market.

Wilson Wu and Chefs Ned Bell and Judy Wu

It is a meal I will remember for a long time – not only because of the company (it was only after the meal that I realized why Ned’s voice was so familiar – Mack and I see his clips of It’s Just Food every night before we go to bed, in between commercials during our late night programming), but also because every dish was so exceptional, it was difficult to pick a favourite. Each course had something exquisite, unique and memorable, and with the chatter at the table, it was evident the guests felt the same thing.

You can’t be a food writer these days without a camera

We started off with Wild Tangerine’s famous shrimp lollipops, which are an absolute must at the restaurant. Wrapped in phyllo pastry, they are one of the most creative and delicious appetizers I have ever come across. Messy, but worth every explosive bite.

Shrimp Lollipops (fabulous presentation)

The next dish, a Pacific octopus salad with Greens, Eggs and Ham mixed heritage greens and an oregano vinaigrette, totally changed my view on octopus. I most often avoid octopus because of the rubbery texture I associate with the protein, but here, it was tender, with a consistency similar to chicken! I also loved the crunchy taro root fries – they were a fun addition.

Pacific Octopus Salad

A Slave Lake pickerel (from Fin’s), served with a Mo Na morel mushroom-butter glaze, was stunning. If not for decorum and common decency, I would have licked the plate – seasoned perfectly, and velvety rich, it enhanced the fork-tender fish. We seriously did something wrong with the morels that we purchased – they tasted nothing like that. But then again, I’m far from a chef.

Slave Lake Pickerel with Morel Mushroom Butter-Glaze

The jasmine tea, wok-smoked Greens, Eggs and Ham duck breast with a spicy tangerine aioli was also not a regular menu item, but it should be. It was Judy’s 2008 Gold Medal Plates-winning dish, and it was easy to see why. Gorgeous presentation aside, the duck was moist, with crisp skin encasing an even layer of delicious fat, the sweet heat from the aioli punching up the flavour. The accompanying chanterelle and duck confit wonton was just as good, and was better than any other fried wonton I’d ever had.

Jasmine Tea Smoked Duck Breast with Spicy Tangerine Aioli

Amber Lane elk, done two ways, was next. The “Lions Head” meatball, stuffed with Sylvan Star gouda and pan-seared tenderloin with a Saskatoon berry compote, was a dish to conquer. I appreciated the tenderloin, well-cooked as it was, but really, I probably could have eaten a second meatball in its place – the cheese surprise was the icing on the cake.

Amber Lane Elk Two Ways

The penultimate dish of Siang Hseng wine slow-cooked Rimbey bison short ribs is thankfully on the regular menu, and is one that I will have to order next time I’m in – they were meltingly tender (and without the egregious fat sometimes seen on beef short ribs). The coconut gnocchi were also really good – light and refreshing, Janet, the journalist across from me commented on how it combined two things she really liked, but had never thought to put together.

Slow-cooked Bison Short Ribs

Dessert that night was an en Sante Green Envy-infused “double-yolk” crème caramel, made using eggs from Sunshine Organic, and raspberries from Wilson’s backyard. Crème caramel isn’t something I’ve ever ordered, but it was a nice, fairly light alternative to my usual choice of a rich, heavy cake. Ned was impressed by the texture and consistency of the flan, and commended Judy for choosing to make such a dessert for food writers.

Green Envy-Infused Crème Caramel (Mack had a few bites before he remembered to take a photo)

I should mention that each dish was paired with a lovely wine, but being the lush I am, I wasn’t able to keep up, and ended up only tasting the last few glasses of wine.

Wilson called the meal a “Dinner of True Love”, because of Judy’s sincere, honest cooking. I couldn’t have agreed with the description more. Thanks again to Bin for the invite, and I do hope the journalists enjoyed their time in Edmonton!

Breakfast Value: Madison’s Grill

I’ve raved about lunches and dinners at Madison’s Grill, but there was still one meal they serve that I hadn’t yet sampled – breakfast. A birthday brunch with the girls provided a good opportunity to finally do so, on a sunny morning in June.

When I initially looked at their breakfast menu online, I just couldn’t believe what they were charging. Just $10 for a customized omelette? $12 for French toast? $14 for Alberta beef hash? What made the low prices even more incredulous is their use of local products – from eggs to bacon to cheese. And in their well-appointed dining room, I would think brunch at Madison’s offers one of the best values in the city.

The only downside was their limited hours (being a hotel after all) – they only serve breakfast until 11am. May and I arrived just after 10, and after settling in with beverages, awaited Annie’s arrival. We called her half an hour later, and it turned out she had our meeting time confused, and asked me to order something for her. Plates were served to May and I not long after, while the kitchen tried to keep Annie’s dish warm in her absence. They ended up having to make her dish again because they deemed it not fit to serve – a testament to how accommodating and understanding Madison’s is as a whole.

In terms of the food – both May and Annie enjoyed their dishes. May had asked for one each of their crab cake and smoked salmon Benedicts ($14; which our server happily combined), while I had ordered Annie a regular eggs Benedict ($12).

Crab cake and smoked salmon Benedict

Eggs Benedict (I love the cups bursting with fruit)

My omelette ($10) included three fillings of my choosing from a list of ten options – Irvings bacon, mushrooms and Sylvan Star Gouda. Though the eggs were prepared quite nicely – fluffy and light – the fillings were distributed inconsistently throughout, with the cheese concentrated on one end and the bacon on the opposite end. Also, this was personal preference, but the mushrooms were chopped a little too finely for my taste. I did like the pan potatoes, however, flavoured with some fresh herbs.

Omelette with bacon, mushrooms and cheese

There are several other dishes I’d like to try off the Madison’s breakfast menu, and with their fantastic service and demonstrated value, I know I’ll back in the future.

Madison’s Grill (in the Union Bank Inn)
10053 Jasper Avenue
(780) 401-2222
Weekday breakfast served 7-10am, weekend breakfast served 8-11am

Off-Menu Extravaganza: Lux Steakhouse

Birthdays provide me with a yearly excuse to try something new, in a price category that is normally out of the question (particularly in light of having recently taken on our first mortgage). Last year, we checked out the decadent Sunday brunch at the Hotel MacDonald. This year, I wanted to do something a little different.

It was at the Grilled Cheese Olympics back in March where Mack and I first met Tony Le, the Executive Chef at Lux Steakhouse (he and his colleagues at Lux are undoubtedly the most active chefs on Twitter in #yeg). It turned out he was an avid reader of our blogs, and at that time, he generously offered to prepare an off-menu meal for Mack and I.

I had pocketed his proposition until I started thinking about where I wanted to celebrate my birthday this year. A posh steakhouse seemed perfect – it would be a nice break in between packing and cleaning. We provided Tony with a price per person ($75), and confirmed the date. I couldn’t wait.

It was a quiet Saturday evening in the restaurant – the perfect atmosphere to relax after a busy day (and of course, meant that Tony would have the time to prepare our dishes). Also – I’m not a fan of the dim, masculine, almost gothic nature of traditional steakhouses, so Lux’s open room with wood paneling and visually intriguing glowing red portholes was a welcome change.

Our server Robin was great throughout the evening. Attentive without being overbearing, he gave us the space we needed to enjoy such a meal. After we were settled, he drew our attention to the half-price wine promotion Century Hospitality is currently offering this summer (with Lux’s turn on Saturday nights), which applies to all bottles of wines available by the glass. We took his recommendation of the Quails’ Gate Reserve Chardonnay, which would pair well with some of the meatier dishes Tony had in store for us that evening.

In addition to our purchased wine, however, Tony was kind enough to provide us with a bottle of Sumac Ridge sparkling wine to start us off (Robin asked if we would be driving; as public transit users, we were safe). He said when he first tried the wine, he thought it would pair perfectly with truffled bacon popcorn, and set off to experiment.

Cheers!

He was right. I love dishes that taunt the nose first, and this was definitely one of them, with the almost earthy notes of truffle a harbinger for the savoury flavours to come. The addition of bacon fat (from Irvings bacon) made for an irresistible combination, each tasty morsel leading to another, in between sips of the sweet bubbly. Pretty soon, I found myself staring at an empty basket (and I finished before Mack did, which almost never happens).

Truffled bacon popcorn

As each course was served, Tony came out of the kitchen to explain the dish, something we really appreciated (the opportunity to hear the creator describe his piece firsthand really enhances the product). The second course, he said, was inspired by the fact that we are avid market shoppers. He went to the City Market that morning to shop for some ingredients, many of which ended up in our heirloom tomato salad – including tomatoes from Doef’s Greenhouses and bee pollen from Lola Canola (two of our favourite producers!). It was an undoubtedly beautiful dish, with the tomatoes sliced mandolin-thin, with the white balsamic reduction and ancho chili oil subtly highlighting the freshness of the produce (I love that the tops were left on the tomatoes). The bees pollen had an interesting, almost malted texture to me, which Mack really enjoyed.

Heirloom tomato salad with white balsamic reduction and ancho chili oil and bees pollen

The lamb salad rolls that followed helped showcase Tony’s range of inspiration. The shredded, perfectly cooked (rare!) rack of lamb had been rolled up with soba noodles and apple kim chi for a bit of heat – I adored the different textures. Served with a watercress and dill salad with an amazing pickled ginger mirin, I can’t see why this course shouldn’t become a regular appetizer on the Lux menu.

Lamb salad rolls with pickled ginger mirin

Next, the pan-seared halibut reminded me that I am but a humble cook – no halibut I’ve ever made has tasted like that, so flaky and moist. Served with a bacon broth that had been cooked with sea asparagus (from Mo Na), the broth took the salty edge off the sea asparagus, but left them with that signature crunch. I requested a spoon to make sure no part of the dish was left unconsumed.

Pan-seared halibut with sea asparagus in a bacon broth (I’m a terrible food blogger – I was halfway through the dish before I realized I hadn’t yet taken a photo…it just looked that good)

We were a little disappointed that the duck used in the subsequent dish wasn’t sourced from Greens, Eggs and Ham, but we understood Tony had his shopping limitations. The Brome Lake duck had been finished with a cab demi glaze, and was served with a grilled apricot and potato gratin. The breast had been well-prepared, and I liked the accompanying sauce. The apricot was a nice touch too, ensuring our palate wasn’t overpowered by the protein and cheesy starch.

Duck breast with cab demi glaze, grilled apricot and potato gratin

Our final entrée was an espresso bison shortrib with a peppercorn glaze and topped with potato frites. While it’s difficult not to enjoy any meat tender enough to fall off the bone, I have to say the bison was overshadowed by the bed of corn. The grown-up cousin of our starter, this was decadence at its finest, the kernels just danced in my mouth with a coat of sumptuous bacon fat and truffle oil (thanks, Matt!).

Espresso shortrib with a peppercorn glaze, potato frites and truffled bacon cream corn

As we readied ourselves for dessert, we couldn’t believe that we were already into our second hour of dining. The time warp was attributed to the skill of the kitchen that ensured the courses were properly paced so our stomachs weren’t overwhelmed.

The first of two desserts (you read that right) was a flaky pastry with sour cherry compote, poached pears, champagne sorbet with raspberry coulis (the raspberries and pears were sourced from the City Market). It was the perfect plate to follow several dense courses – funny how fruit can help settle an ailment of overeating, no? Both Mack and I agreed, however, that the best thing on the plate was the light and refreshing champagne sorbet.

Flaky pastry with sour cherry compote, poached pears, champagne sorbet and raspberry coulis

What was the final course, you ask? A birthday cake in the form of cream cheese and chocolate cupcakes, accompanied by coconut and walnut chocolate truffles.

Cream cheese and chocolate cupcakes and truffles

We were really happy that Tony was able to sit and chat with us for a while at the end of the meal. Though we’ve had conversations in passing, it was great to finally have the opportunity to get to know him a little better. It was easy to see his passion for Edmonton, and he stated his intentions to remain here, in order to continue to contribute to the community. I think the city is lucky to have such a talented and committed chef in Tony!

All smiles

Thanks again to Tony and the rest of the staff at Lux for a wonderful night, and for one of the best birthday meals I’ve ever had.

Lux Steakhouse and Bar
10150 101 Street
(780) 424-0400
Steakhouse hours: Lunch, Monday-Friday 11-2:30pm; Dinner, Monday-Thursday 5-10pm, Friday-Saturday 5-11pm, closed Sunday

A Little Redemption: Lit Wine Bar

Before the Energy game, Amanda and I planned to grab a bite to eat downtown, then hop on the bus to NAIT. It’s a little amusing – with all my harping about unnecessary television screens in bars, we almost ended up at The Hat so we could watch the Oilers draft Taylor Hall. Fortunately, my hankering for a post-work glass of wine was greater than my draft viewing desire, so we ultimately settled on Lit Wine Bar.

I had been unimpressed with Lit up until that point. When the City Market kicked off its 2010 season back in May, Lit was offering free samples – the cannoli I sampled could have chipped a tooth. Worse – at Indulgence, their wild mushroom-stuffed arancini was so salty it was inedible. I was hoping the full kitchen experience would be a better one.

Lit was completely empty when we sauntered in, just past 5pm on a Friday. Still, the hostess/waitress asked if we had a reservation. We said no, and asked if it was possible to sit upstairs. She indicated that some of the tables in the loft space had been reserved, but led us upstairs anyway. Though no other parties joined us on the second floor during our stay, props to our server for traipsing up the stairs to serve an isolated two top without showing visible signs of resentment.

The décor in Lit is minimal and clean – black leather banquets, a bubble light fixture, interesting art (which is also for sale) – but isn’t the kind of room that wows at first glance. Still, I love the fact that they decided to acknowledge the high ceiling and build an additional seating area, and one that would work quite well for a small private party. I did think it was a bit strange for such a posh spot to have to rely on the radio for mood music though – I hope that changes soon.

Interior

The glass of wine definitely hit the spot. I wasn’t hungry enough to want a full main, so instead, chose plates Amanda and I could share. The arancini rustico ($9) seemed interesting – deep fried arborio rice filled with melted cheese. And with a full line of flatbreads (they seem to be a menu staple for lounges and wine bars in the city, do they not?), I figured that would be a good benchmark dish as well, and chose the pollo pesto ($10). Amanda opted to round out her meal with the insalata fresca ($12).

The arancini came out right away, as promised. Not uniform in size, they nonetheless appealed to the eye, fried to a golden crisp and ready to plunge into one of the two sauces alongside. Amanda and I both agreed the marinara was the better of the two – a little tart, but added that extra something to the arancini, which were a little under seasoned in my opinion. The cheese sauce was a little thick for its purpose, and just too rich for us.

Arancini rustico

Amanda’s salad looked like a snapshot of summer, with strawberries, greens, and a honey balsamic vinaigrette. I don’t often order salads at restaurants, so I’m not the best judge, but she said it was a bit small and not creative enough for the price. She also isn’t a fan of goat cheese, but as the menu indicated the dish came with mozzarella, wasn’t able to alert the kitchen in advance.

Insalata fresca

The flatbread was surprisingly large, to the point where it moved beyond an appetizer and into entrée territory – our waitress said it had expanded in recent weeks. My sister and I had two different responses to the bread base – I didn’t like how crispy it was, resembling the texture of pita chips, while Amanda quite enjoyed the crunchy texture. However, we both thought the toppings were great, a well balanced combination of pesto, chicken and surprisingly delicious bruschetta (with mellowed, non-biting onions).

Pollo pesto flatbread

We had no quibble with service – our server was friendly, and everything was fairly efficient. It was also a relief to know that my initial impressions may not be a true representation of Lit. I’d be interested to check them out again in a few weeks, once they’ve settled and had some time to finalize the menu. I guess it helps that I’m in such close range now!

Lit Wine Bar
10132 – 104 Street
(780) 757-6688
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11am-2pm (Lit closed for lunch for the summer); Dinner: Tuesday-Wednesday 4-11pm, Thursday-Saturday 4pm-2am

Just Not Memorable: Pho Anh Dao

At the rate we’re going, Dickson and I will be sampling pho restaurants into the next decade. With new establishments popping up all the time (such as Pho King on Alberta Avenue and Phonatics in the north end), old favourites yet to sample (like Pho & Bun), and restaurants changing hands, it’s guaranteed pho lovers will always have another place to compare to their stalwart choice.

We ended up at Pho Anh Dao two weeks ago, which was previously Le Family Vietnamese. As with many restaurants in Chinatown, a coherent “décor” was non existent, though there was a sizable television screen set up at the rear of the restaurant.

Interior

As soon as we walked inside, eager staff greeted us and set us up with menus and tea (we were only one of two tables during our visit). We ordered our usual bowls (special for Dickson, $7.95/large and medium beef and flank, $6.95/small, for me), as well as spring roll appetizers.

Dickson was quite impressed with the spring rolls (he can be considered a connoisseur of the deep-fried starters), and while they were crispy and well-prepared, I am biased to thinking that my Mum’s spring rolls are the best in town.

Spring rolls

As for the pho itself, while the broth was well-seasoned, it lacked depth. The flank was luxuriously fatty (which some may find disconcerting, but I just lap it up), while the medium beef was anything but – tough and chewy, it was difficult to finish the serving.

Medium rare beef and beef flank noodle soup

Special noodle soup

In the end, Pho Anh Dao didn’t provide us with a terrible experience, but it wasn’t a particularly memorable one either. While I’d be willing to give them another shot, Pho Tau Bay will continue to be my go-to pho destination.

Pho Anh Dao
10548 97 Street
(780) 426-7774
Open 10am-9pm everyday except Wednesday (open 10am-4pm)

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