Strip Mall Elegance: Jack’s Grill

After New York, I thought it’d be best to avoid “fancy” restaurants for a while – not because I don’t enjoy being catered to necessarily, but because I feel I’ve enjoyed my share of fine dining for several months. When May suggested we try out Jack’s Grill (primarily because she had a gift certificate that would cover about half our meal costs), I agreed, but knew that if their hospitality matched their menu prices, my verdict of the restaurant would be influenced by my desire for anything but formal dining.

Located in a Lendrum strip mall (5842 111 Street), a rather unusual spot for a high-end eatery, it is easily missed due to an exterior that blends in with neighbouring merchants. Upon entry, I was greeted by a friendly hostess who immediately took my coat (I can’t seem to get away from mandatory coat checks) and seated me at a table alongside a wall of windows. Whoever designed the restaurant should be commended for not only the placement of glass, but also for the inclusion of a garden of sorts outside the window. With a parallel bank of trees decorated with twinkle lights, if led in blindfolded, diners would never guess that Jack’s Grill was situated in a strip mall to begin with.

May arrived soon after, and we took our time with the one page menu. We skipped over the appetizers directly to the entrees. May decided to try the Slow Braised Lamb Shank ($32), while the Chinook Salmon ($36) as described by the waiter sounded too good to pass up.

While we waited for our plates, May and I were both surprised at how busy the restaurant was over the course of the evening. Though never completely full, I didn’t think those with expensive tastes would wander out of the downtown core to feed their hunger for gourmet cuisine.

May’s lamb was perfectly prepared – tender off the bone. She didn’t like the accompanying braised cabbage or gremolata much, but finished it all the same. My salmon was good, but the butter sauce it came in was better (it’s pretty difficult to mess up pan fried fish, I find).

Service was decent throughout (including the server who refolded our napkins while we were away from the table), and our water glasses were never less than half full. Still, without a gift certificate in hand, I would be hard pressed to return to Jack’s Grill. There are better fine dining options in Edmonton (Hardware Grill, for example) that I would turn to first on occasions requiring a high standard of excellence.

Exterior

Dining room

The Cooking Chronicles: Eggnog Cookies

Birthdays provide another great excuse to try out new recipes. I bought a copy of Company’s Coming: Christmas Gifts from the Kitchen a few months ago (I love the dry mix ideas), and in it was an unusual recipe for Eggnog Cookies.

While I’m not a huge fan of eggnog, Mack is, and I decided a batch would be a good start for his (belated) birthday present. Being drop cookies, it was an easy batter to put together, though I had to omit the rum/brandy addition, as we didn’t have any on hand. The cookies turned out all right, mostly circular, and looked better with a drizzle of eggnog icing and colored sugar (a piping bag would have allowed for more consistent decoration, but I found a fork easier to use).

I can’t comment too much on the taste because of my bias, except to say that they had quite a strong nutmeg flavour to them. Mack seemed to like them enough, so as gifts go, I’d consider making them again for those who like eggnog.

Eggnog Cookies

The Best Pho in Town: Pagolac

It’s been a while since I’ve been to Pagolac, as I had been frequenting Doan’s to satify my pho craving. My last few trips to Doan’s have been disappointing, however – the beef stock seemed to have increased in salt content and did not appear to have been made from scratch (boullion cubes, anyone?).

I was hoping Pagolac hadn’t gone downhill in the time I had been away, and I am happy to report that they still offer the best pho in the city! My bowl didn’t have cilantro (boo), but other than that, I couldn’t complain about anything. Their servers always amaze me too – super efficient even in a packed house.

Inexpensive and consistent, Pagolac is still my recommentation for reliable, cheap eats.

Pho with medium sliced beef

A Little Slice of Europe: Bistro Praha

A few friends and I met up at Bistro Praha (10168 100A Street) for a late afternoon dinner on Saturday. I hadn’t been back to the restaurant in some years, though I had been a frequent patron there in my late high school and early university days. The Rice Howard Way strip hosts a number of independent, ethnic eateries, including La Table de Renoir (French), Co Co Di (Lebanese), It’s All Greek to Me (what else but Greek), and the Eastern European fare of Bistro Praha.

Small but cozy, Bistro Praha always seems to have a few groups of regulars in addition to more curious diners. With a prominent bar and counter along one side and furniture that could have been pulled from an old family pub, the dining room is comfortable and feels familiar somehow. Lighting is dim, but conducive, it seems, to the camaraderie of more boisterous customers, but protective also of the intimate conversations taking place at the tables for two.

I wish I could provide more detail about the menu items, but truth be told, I’ve always ordered the same entree – the Wiener Schnitzel “Cordon Bleu” (a slice of veal, edam cheese and ham breaded then fried). Served with green and potato salads, the meal is consistently satisfying. I decided to order the full plate, though when it arrived, I realized that in the past, I had only asked for the half order – the schnitzel was huge! Still, I managed to eat every crispy and tasty bite – a microwaved portion of leftovers really wouldn’t have done the dish justice.

Stuffed, I wasn’t able to order dessert, but the rest of the girls did. Janice said Bistro Praha’s crepes were better than those served at The Creperie.

It was a nice meal overall – good food, attentive service, and not a bad place to catch up with friends. If you’re in the area, give Bistro Praha a try!

Restaurant interior

Wiener Schnitzel “Cordon Bleu”

Peach Crepe

Delicious and Divine: Violino

After reading a few positive reviews about Violino (10133 125 Street), a new-ish restaurant in the High Street area, I suggested that Annie and I give it a try on Friday night.

Located in what appears to be a renovated house, we were greeted upon arrival by a host who took our coats (after New York, I am terrified by coat checks). He led us to the second floor dining area, and at that time, we were only the second party in the restaurant (while it was never full, more patrons arrived over the course of the evening).

Annie and I both loved the decor – red tapestries, cream seat covers, and the nicest bathroom either of us had seen in a long time (I’m a sucker for those bowl-shaped sinks that sit atop counters). My only nitpick was the prevalence of music-themed art throughout the restaurant; two or three pieces would have been subtle, but we seemed to encounter another sculpture every time we turned around.

Wanting to leave room for dessert, we bypassed the appetizers and denser entrees, opting instead for the Risotto con Funghi (risotto and wild mushroom melange, parmesan cheese, mixed herbs and laced with truffle oil). I am pleased to say that our server was great under the circumstances; she was assigned the entire second level, and was swamped, but did her best to provide attentive and timely service.

Our food arrived in a positively aromatic cloud and our server confirmed that we were noticing the truffle oil. In short, the risotto was divine. Rich and savoury, but not overly salty, the rice was a creamy bit of heaven.

To end our meal, we each ordered the Espresso Tiramisu and an accompanying cup of tea. Beautifully presented, with an artfully placed wafer and a single raspberry, the cake did not taste heavy, unlike versions at other Italian restaurants. The marscapone cheese blended wonderfully with the espresso-soaked biscuits, and I found the chocolate syrup garnish a nice sweet touch.

While not inexpensive, our indulgence at Violino was well worth it.

Restaurant Exterior

Annie and her Risotto

Espresso Tiramisu

2007: A Year of Culinary Highlights

2007 was a great year. For food, that is.

I was fortunae enough to travel to Europe this summer, and to New York in December. At home in Edmonton, I sampled the fare at several new restaurants (or at least, “new” to me), and discovered some now-favorites.

In no particular order, here are a few of my culinary highlights from the past year.

  • Eating the best pizza of my life first at Vancouver’s Bridges, then in a small sidestreet restaurant in Florence.

  • Asiago, Parmesan and Mozzerella Pizza from Bridges

    Navona Notte from a restaurant with that namesake

  • (With Mack’s help) Throwing my first ever dinner party!
  • Panna Cotta amidst a candlelit table

  • Many a good meal at my beloved Blue Plate Diner.
  • Comfort food at its best – the Herbed Meatloaf from Blue Plate Diner

  • The discovery of a stellar diner in Calgary, a wonderful lunch spot in downtown Edmonton, a historic house for more than just tea, a comfortable greasy spoon, and a chic cafe for fab pizza and panini sandwiches.
  • Frittata from Diner Deluxe

    Chicken Cordon Bleu from Shine Bistro

    Cranberry Brie Sandwich from Arbor Restaurant in Rutherford House

    Poutine from Route 99 Diner

    Vegetarian Panini Sandwich from Leva Capuccino Bar

  • Exhausting my cupcake phase: first in Calgary; then in Vancouver; Edmonton; and finally New York (and of course, I made my own too).
  • From Calgary’s Buttercream Bakeshoppe

    From Calgary’s Crave

    From Vancouver’s Cupcakes

    From Edmonton’s Whimsical Cupcakes

    From New York’s Magnolia Bakery

    An Ina Garten recipe for Chocolate Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Icing

  • Experiencing the gold standard for eating out at Becco in New York, which balanced the line between fine dining and comfort.

Outside Becco

  • An invitation to participate in a Market Fresh Cooking Class with Judy Schultz and Gail Hall, which started to get me thinking about seasonal cooking and utilizing farmer’s markets.

With my fellow Journal winners, Gail Hall, and Judy Schultz

I can’t wait to see what’s in store for 2008!

The Cooking Chronicles: New Year’s Eve Shindig

Jane e-mailed me from Italy in November, asking if I would consider co-hosting a New Year’s party with her. As if I hesitated before saying yes to an opportunity to entertain and experiment with new recipes.

As we were both in recovery from illness and/or vacation hangover, it wasn’t until a few days before the 31st that we brainstormed potential hors dourves we wanted to serve our guests. A few e-mails and one discussion later, we had it down to five plates each, plus a beverage to have ready for Monday.

As I was scheduled to work a half day that morning, I made sure to choose recipes that would allow for advanced preparation. Of course, I didn’t anticipate that prior to launching into a cooking extravaganza on Sunday night, that I would first have to help my family put together a feast for my sister and her 20 merry friends in celebration of her birthday.

After dinner, I got started. Donna Hay’s 3 Cheese Puffs (made from thawed puff pastry sheets) probably had a dash too much oregano, but were assembled quite quickly, and were ready to be baked the next day. After making a sour cream pound cake from scratch, I diced about half of it for Individual Raspberry Trifle Parfaits (using disposable wine glasses found at Dollarama), which would be garnished with chocolate curls at the party. Giada’s Stuffed Mushrooms were next, modified using suggestions from others who had tried the recipe (adding chopped mushroom stems and cutting down on the amount of breadcrumbs used to reduce dryness), and placed in an oiled glass baking dish which would be put directly into the oven in the evening. Lastly, with my Mum’s help, I duplicated the Barbecue Duck Salad Rolls I had made a few weeks earlier for a potluck at work (thinking that a cold appetizer would be the best idea for a party where guests would be drifting in over the course of five hours). A colourful vegetable platter and dip was my last sustenance-offering. I also had a Ricardo cocktail in mind, a Pink Grapefruit-Flavoured Wine, but was to be infused for just a few hours, so I packed up my grapefruit and bottle of White Zinfandel to be prepared the next day.

I got to Jane’s place that evening at about a quarter to six, but given that our friends have a penchant for being fashionably late, we had more than enough time to heat and dress our food.

In the end, our guests were quite impressed with the spread. Jane’s dips and pita chips were a hit (I particularly liked the White Bean and Sun Dried Tomato), as were her meatballs (she also made Focaccia bread, green onion cakes, and brownies). Most people liked my cheese puffs and stuffed mushrooms (the latter were a bit dry in my opinion, and a touch too garlicky). As for the trifles, they were all right, though the thawed raspberries ended up tasting sour, and in hindsight, I should have used frozen blueberries instead. Out of all the dishes, I’d actually be most likely to make the cocktail again; inexpensive and easy to drink, it would make a great dessert “wine” to end off a meal.

After the food and some requisite Cranium, we headed to Churchill Square to watch the fireworks. Having been born and raised in Edmonton, it would be surprising to most to know that this was my first time catching them live on the Square. The music accompaniment was a bit wonky, but the fireworks themselves were very nice indeed, and lasted 13 minutes, as promised.

Though it was like pulling teeth for some (you know who you are), we had every guest write down either a resolution or a hope for 2008 on a small card, and their mailing address in a corresponding envelope, which was then sealed. These little letters will then be sent out in about 6 months’ time, to serve as written benchmarks or reminders (I can’t take credit for the idea – I stole it from Real Simple Celebrations).

Thanks again to Jane for allowing us to use your new apartment!

The chefs

The spread

Happy New Year, everyone!

Food Notes

  • Judy Schultz is retiring! After 26 years, she is leaving the Journal. We’ll miss you, Judy!
  • La Spiga is no more. Violino, another Italian eatery, has replaced it. Judging by a positive review from the Zenari clan, it’s a good bet for traditional food.
  • The next time I return to Manhattan, I’ll be sure to time it around a Restaurant Week. The listing of participants for the January event is up.
  • There was an interesting article in the Globe last week about the movement to “reclaim” but also to experiment with Indian food. It talks about an up and coming chef, based in the UK, who has banished the word “curry” from his menu.
  • Food trends for 2008 (though perhaps not really worth mentioning in a food climate as slow as Edmonton’s): gastropubs, comfort food/one-item restaurants (like S’MAC), and upscale frozen desserts.
  • Blogging about New York took a lot out of me, so instead of a full restaurant review, I’m copping out and just writing a few sentences about my latest experience at Manor Cafe. I had dinner there with a few girlfriends there last week, and was less than impressed. This is the second time where upon entering the restaurant, I was left waiting in the lobby for someone, anyone, to greet me. Secondly, our server opened up the evening with humor, referencing the nearly-empty dining area on the main floor (“As you can see, we’re so busy”), but failed to keep up with the implied promise of good service. Andrea never did get her water glass refilled, and resorted to drinking everyone else’s water. Our supply of hot water for tea also needed continued requests to be replenished. The food was nothing to write home about, though it was my choice to order the seemingly out of place Nasi Goreng dish. The rice itself was pretty bland, but I did enjoy the accompaniments provided (the peanut sauce in particular was quite tasty). Operated by the same couple who own Urban Diner (where I’ve always had a positive experience), I’m surprised at how inconsistent Manor Cafe has been.

Culinary Q & A with Andrea

Occupation: Professional student. Technically, I’m in grade 19.

What did you eat today?

I woke up at 1pm and went to Denny’s for breakfast/lunch. I had the Heartland Scramble:

Two eggs scrambled with chopped bacon, country-fried potatoes, green peppers and onions, and topped with Cheddar cheese. Served with two strips of bacon, two sausage links, hash browns and three fluffy buttermilk pancakes.

Instead of the pancakes, I substituted it with French toast.

I also had some mandarin oranges to snack on.

What do you never eat?

Never say never! I mean, I say now that I’ll won’t eat bugs and rats. But what if I was starving on a desert island? I think I’d have no qualms hunting down and devouring anything remotely edible. Better them than me.

I guess to answer your question: it’s not that I’ll never eat it but I don’t enjoy the taste of cilantro, pineapples, olives, pickles, vinegar, lobster/crab, shark fin, tofu, peanut butter (peanuts alone, I like), cooked citrus fruits (raw is fine), capers, and watercress.

Oh, and I don’t really like chocolate either. Weird, I know.

What is your personal specialty?

Everyone seems to like my chocolate chip oatmeal cookies. I have so many requests for the recipe but I refuse to divulge the secret. You’ll never find it in any books or the internet since I made it up.

My mini pecan pies are pretty good too, but an incredible hassle to make. I’d like to think I’m above average in the baked goods department.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Sharp knives. For stabbing.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Appetizer: Deep-fried breaded fresh calimari with tzatziki sauce for dipping, and a lemon wedge for squeezing. An important thing to note is that I want the calimari to breading ratio to be at least 3:1 in terms of volume.

Entree: It’s a tough choice but I think I’d choose a gyro over pho. This gyro MUST come from the Greek island of Santorini at a certain restaurant who’s name escapes me.

Since that probably won’t make me full, I’d also like a prime rib dinner made by my dad, served with Russian Blue Duchesse potatoes and garden fresh vegetables (and I mean GARDEN FRESH).

Dessert: I’m pretty simple in this department — home-made apple crumble a la mode. The ice cream must be vanilla bean. I HAVE to be able to see those little black flecks.

Beverage: A nice glass of blackberry wine.

Snack: Krispy Kreme doughnuts and Haribo gummie bears.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Hmmm…probably Charles Smart Donair. Jumbo Dim Sum comes at a close second.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Oooh. This is a tough question. In order to get a green-light from me, there has to be a high quality-to-price ratio and service has to be decent. You know me, I like having my water glass filled frequently and without my asking. Also, I’m not sure if my choices are biased from my meal-mates. I mean, no one would like eating in the best place in the world with their enemy.

In any case, here they are in no particular order:

Cafe Mosaic
Pad Thai
Charles Smart Donair
Jumbo Dim Sum
New Asian Village
Pagolac
Marble Slab (not really a restaurant, but ice cream is still something you eat!) Garage Burgers
Original Joe’s
Pho Tau Bay

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Gyros from Greece; pho from Vietnam; pizza and gelato from Italy; schnitzel and beer from Germany; roast beef dinner from UK (I don’t really like Yorkshire pudding, but I had the best pudding there); all sorts of fantastic pastries from France; egg custard tarts from HK; jerky from Vancouver; naan bread from India; and last of all, huckleberry-blackberry pie a la mode from Loula’s Cafe in Whitefish, Montana.

Culinary Q & A with Jane

Occupation: Director- Financial aid office

What did you eat today?

Breakfast- yogurt, banana. Mandarin & a hot rod!
Lunch- pita & nummus
Dinner- Spanish tortilla (egg Potatos, green onions & cheese) w/ caramelized onions&red pepper

What do you never eat?

Oatmeal or cereal & milk

What is your personal specialty?

Soups & baked goods

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Sharp Knives. Close second, measuring cups

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

french onion soup Japanese food- sushi sashimi etc Miscellaneous snack stuff like drips. Pickles, olives & cheeses Haha all over the place

Where do you eat out most frequently?

A japanese restaurant in the west end- Ichiban

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

So hard to choose one! I love lchiban for the price to quality ratio but one of the places really like is Uppercrust ooh & Flavours on Whyte Ave. Sorry that was a non- answer!