Food Escape to Calgary: Day 1

Being Dine-Out week, as well as what I wanted to optimistically deem a spring thaw, Mack and I decided to head to Calgary this weekend to expand our culinary borders.

After the half-day ETS Community Conference wrapped up, we headed to McDonald’s for some road trip sustenance. Thankfully, fast food wouldn’t set the tone for our food consumption over the next two days, but I will admit to enjoying my Quarter Pounder with Cheese (who knew two slices of processed cheese made such a difference?).

Quarter Pounder, Big Mac and lots of fries

We thought the road conditions would be poor, given that driving within the city was a slush-fest that morning, but the highway was in better shape than we expected, and so we made good time.

I had decided upon the Westin for our accommodations, based on a good experience I had last summer (albeit in the fancy, renovated Business Tower), and the deal they were offering while I was comparison shopping. When we arrived, however, the second impression wasn’t positive. It was past 4pm (keeping in mind that the check-out time was noon), and we were told that our room still had to be cleaned, with a wait of at least forty-five minutes. Opting for fresh air instead of idling in the lounge, we walked over to the nearby Prince’s Island Park.

Though there was still quite a bit of snow to be found on the riverbanks, there were a surprising number of ducks and geese near the water and in the park as a whole. More than that, these animals were so used to people (or are still carrying their winter weight) that they couldn’t be bothered to move away when we approached.

Duck, duck, goose

Geese!

Out on a stroll

River Café, nestled in Prince’s Island Park (was on my short list of Dine Out options, but would be a more appropriate choice in the summer, surrounded by trees in full color)

Why wear a cowboy hat when you can swing on one?

When we made it back to the hotel, we were pleased to find out that we had been upgraded to the Business Tower. Complimentary amenities included long-distance calls to anywhere in North America, wireless internet, Starbucks coffee, and a $21 breakfast credit for the in-house restaurant.

Mack lounging

I had planned a walkable itinerary for Saturday, so we headed for Stephen Avenue on foot. With some time to kill before our reservation, we ended up wandering around Rand McNally Bookstore. From their name, I thought they were only in the business of textbooks, but I was wrong. With wooden floors, a cozy cafe on the third level, and a children’s area that reminded me of the one in You’ve Got Mail‘s fictional Fox Books, it would be a nice escape from the bustle of Stephen Avenue in the summer.

Rand McNally Bookstore interior

Promptly at 6pm, to Blink Restaurant & Bar (111 8th Avenue SW) we went. I posted about Blink Supper Club in May of last year, with a note that their revamped menu was boosting business somewhat. I guess it wasn’t enough, as the original owners sold out, and the “club-by-night” concept gave way to a restaurant in its pure form. Out of my shortlist of Dine Out restaurants, Blink had the most interesting menu as well as a location conducive for the rest of the plan that evening.

Blink exterior

Upon entry, we were greeted by dramatic floor-to-ceiling length curtains, and then a friendly hostess, in that order. Like many a restaurant in Toronto, the dining room was narrow, but deep, lined with banquets, exposed brick, and dark wood. A wine case cleverly hid the DJ’s platform and turnstiles, though one wonders if they will bother keeping this fixture at all. Before she seated us, the hostess asked if we were here for the Dine Out promotion, and offered us both the special and regular menus as a matter of courtesy (take that, Ric’s Grill). The $35 pre-fixe included our choice of appetizer, entree, and dessert from a list of three in each category. Naturally, Mack and I chose completely different dishes to allow for a larger sample size.

Blink interior

Dine Out menu

My puree of squash varietals (with honey and preserves lemon creme fraiche) was divine – not hot enough for my liking, but was finely strained yet thick enough to be substantial. Sweet with just a hint of lemon, it ended up being the best of my three courses. Perhaps it set too high of a bar, as the rest of the dishes were underwhelming. Mack enjoyed his heirloom beets (a pink and orange variety usually not seen) dressed in an orange vinaigrette, but probably would have been satisfied with an entire plate of their creamy, fresh goat cheese alone.

Puree of squash varietals

Heirloom beets

Since being “denied” risotto in Italy, I have been on a quest to find the next best risotto in North America. But after Blink, I think I’m done – while great as a side, as a touch of savoury to a fish course, for example, I find I’m always looking for a bit of protein substance to follow the rice. Unfortunately with Blink’s version as well, my serving had not been continuously stirred, and as a result, the grains were inconsistent – some plump with stock, others still uncooked and crunchy. And though my self-imposed food critic demands had me ordering something other than what Mack had chosen, I should have gone with my gut and opted for the arctic char instead. Mack loved the fish – lighter than salmon, crisp and flavourful, it was both filling and satisfying. I thought the breaded and fried potato galette was the best part though – it was creamy, carb-y, and smooth on the inside.

Risotto of organic mushrooms

Land locked arctic char

For dessert, I couldn’t pass up the vanilla creme brulee, though I still haven’t found a restaurant that can duplicate the creme brulee I had on a cruise a few years ago. The cruise version spoiled me to expect a thin layer of custard, easily warmed through by a freshly torched surface. Blink’s brulee wasn’t bad – flavoured by real vanilla bean, it was definitely a dessert to savour. Mack didn’t enjoy his sticky pudding with butterscotch as much; it was too rich for his taste.

Vanilla creme brulee

Sticky pudding with butterscotch

The experience as a whole at Blink was great – attentive service, a refined atmosphere, and an elegant setting, I would recommend it for those looking for a higher end downtown dining destination. I am a bit disappointed that I wasn’t able to see the transformation of the room into a club, however – I guess I will have to head east for that.

After dinner, we headed to the most tourist-oriented part of our weekend: the Calgary Tower. Why? I had a coupon (heh), and though I had seen the view from the top during the day, the panoramic night display would be new to me.

Going up in a plywood elevator (what would people who are afraid of heights think?)

It turns out it really isn’t anything special. Olympic Plaza looked nice lit from above, and the glass floor provided a momentary distraction, but other than that, we stayed just long enough to get our psychological money’s worth.

Glass floor

At the top

The next stop was a free outdoor Glenbow Museum exhibit on Darfur. From the website:

“DARFUR/DARFUR is a provocative photography exhibit that will be projected onto Glenbow Museum’s walls facing Stephen Avenue and 1st St. S.E. from March 14 to 21, 2008. Over 170 colour and black-and-white images by seven internationally acclaimed photojournalists and one former U.S. Marine will bring into focus the landscape, the culture and the people that are currently under attack in the Darfur region in western Sudan.”

I had a vision that the photographs would be projected on street-level walls, and if we hadn’t heard a music cue, I wouldn’t have even thought to look up. The use of space and the idea of hypothetically exposing people out in public to the atrocities in Darfur are interesting, but standing outside on a random downtown street, the exhibit wasn’t as effective as it could have been.

DARFUR/DARFUR exhibit

Our last photo opportunity (as neither of us had skates) was Olympic Plaza. It was quite picturesque, especially with the lone skater on the pond, but when the snow, out of nowhere, started funnelling out of the sky, the bleak visibility forced us to turn back to the hotel.

Olympic Plaza

Us

More on Calgary’s Food Scene

Though I’m pretty set on where I would like to eat in Calgary this weekend, I find that lists are great to refer back to. Here are some observations and a running tally for future outings:

  • Chowhound favorites the River Cafe (situated on Prince’s Island Park, and likely beautiful in the summer) and Teatro (which has a simply stunning interior) might be worth a splurge one day on reputation alone.
  • Capo comes with high regard from Andree Lau, a Calgary-based blogger whose taste I trust. Whenever I see advertisements or read about Capo, the name of the head chef, Giuseppe Di Gennaro, is never far behind. I do think Calgary has a more developed appreciation and awareness of the staff behind the food.
  • I have seen JAROblue mentioned numerous times as well, but without any content available on their website, it is difficult to assess whether or not they’re worth trying.
  • Independent coffee houses on the level of Transcend in Edmonton, are more numerous in Calgary, and include Higher Ground in Kensington and Caffe Beano. There were also rumblings on the Chowhound boards that Phil & Sebastian (currently based out of the Calgary Farmer’s Market), are looking for a space to call their own.
  • I am really drawn to The Cookbook Co.‘s marketing of their cooking classes – with their bright and well-designed flyer, I want to believe that the sessions themselves will live up to the promise on paper. It’s also great that they are able to draw from the local restaurant community to teach some of the classes.
  • We will be there to only hypothetically catch the tail end of it, but Calgary has their own Savour Wine & Food Experience. How cool would it have been to have dinner with someone like John Gilchrist?

Anyway, I am looking forward to this weekend as a means of sampling what Calgary has to offer.

Culinary Q & A with Shermie

Occupation: Law student

What did you eat today?

– 2 pieces of cinnamon raisin toast
– banana nut muffin with apple juice
– Tim Horton’s toasted chicken club on whole wheat without bacon, medium french vanilla coffee
– chicken curry, rice, green peppers and beef cooked in a wok

What do you never eat?

– squid

What is your personal specialty?

– anything requiring a microwave

What is your favorite kitchen item?

– the microwave

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Gotham Steak House in Vancouver – petit filet cooked rare with creamy lyonnaise potatos and cauliflower au gratin and chocolate mousse for dessert. Alternatively, Vij’s in Vancouver for lamb popsicles in the most addictive tasting sauce and their tapioca root fries.

Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse for their petit filet. They do side dishes and dessert well too.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Vancouver always has new restaurants opening with famous chefs, so I would just hit the hot new restaurant. West is on my list.

In Paris, I would eat fresh croissants, cheese and fruit.

Food Notes

  • They should have called it Truth: Impossible: it seems Dinner: Impossible host Robert Irvine lied about his credentials and some of his experience, leading to his release from the hit Food Network show.
  • A coup for Canada: Daniel Boulud will be assisting in the transformation of the space once occupied by Feenie’s. The best thing about the article is Rob Feenie’s quote where he celebrates his own greatness: “Do you think he came cheap? If this is the only way they can replace me, that’s great.”
  • An amusing rant against the 100-mile diet phenomenon in The Province.
  • I’ve been looking for food blogs to add to my reading repetoire, and this one caught my eye. I especially like her “Mom Series” – posts written as a tribute to her Mom’s traditional Chinese home cooking.
  • Avenue Magazine’s March edition is all about food. Check out this comprehensive list of local dinner preparation kitchens.
  • Also from Avenue, a spotlight on Pizzaria Prego (5860 111 Street). I will have to get myself to Lendrum Mall soon to try their Sunrise pie. Made with tomato sauce, mozzarella, bacon, scrambled egg, cheddar and tomatoes, it would be like having breakfast for dinner!

Appalling Inconsistency: Ric’s Grill

I’ve been wanting to try Ric’s Grill (10190 104 Street) for a while, and a special menu offered in accordance with Edmonton’s Downtown Dining Week was the perfect catalyst to do so. So having made a reservation with enough wiggle room to make it to a show at MacEwan later that evening, Dickson and I headed to the Warehouse District on Saturday.

The Metals Building, in all its stalwart brick glory, always seemed inherently fitting for an upscale steakhouse. The interior offered nothing unexpected – dark wood, leather, and too-dim lighting reminiscent of Ruth’s Chris. While I understand that the booth we were seated in was designed to create a private enclave of sorts, Dickson actually felt borderline claustrophobic in its looming wake.

When I didn’t find a Dining Week menu among the leather-bound folders on the table, I requested one from our server. He replied that the promotion was not available to those who had not mentioned the special menu while making the reservation. As this was not clearly indicated on the website (as it is on Calgary’s Dine-Out Week site), nor was I asked such a question when I spoke to the hostess over the phone, I couldn’t fathom how this could have been their policy. Dickson amounted this to “nominal participation” in Dining Week, though when we heard a similar bottom line delivered to a nearby table who was also interested in the promotional menu, we found some comfort in their consistency.

Not so, it seems. May, who ate at Ric’s Grill the night prior, was immediately given the Dining Week menu upon request, even without “pre-ordering” over the phone beforehand. What boggles my mind is that the options available on the Dining Week menu are no different than what is offered on their regular menu, so a lack of food supply would not be an acceptable excuse. And as one would think the pre-fixe menus are meant to encourage otherwise experimental-shy patrons to dine outside their borders with the hope of reaping return business in the future, why so many hurdles would be in place to ultimately save the restaurant just a few dollars (the 6oz Filet Mignon pre-fixe with dessert was $35, while the same Filet Mignon is regularly priced at $31 without dessert) is beyond me. Though I will continue with this review to be thorough, it’s a safe bet I won’t be back at Ric’s Grill; it is unacceptable for a restaurant of their supposed calibre to be nothing more than a token participant in an event set up to promote the best of Edmonton’s urban cuisine.

I ordered the 6oz Filet Mignon, with a soup to start, while Dickson settled on the 12oz Top Sirloin and a Caesar salad ($31). The spicy beef and vegetable soup was great – the amount of beef was generous, and the vegetables had obviously been simmering for quite some time. Dickson said his salad (made from scratch), was quite enjoyable as well.

As for our entrees – I had no complaints about my steak, though I do think the Filet Mignon I had at Mr. Mike’s a few weeks back was just a touch better, if not only because I’d take a peppercorn cream sauce over Bernaise any day. And I won’t deny it – the fun of onion rings as a side is something I still haven’t gotten over.

Dickson’s sirloin, ordered medium rare, was exceptionally moist. So much so that the red juices that collected on his plate became somewhat unappetizing. I don’t claim to be a steak expert, but perhaps they should have let the meat sit for a while longer before serving it?

Ric’s Grill, I hardly knew ye.

Exterior

Interior

6oz Filet Mignon

12oz Top Sirloin

The Cooking Chronicles: Tiramisu

In part for a dessert party practice run and in part because I was craving something sweet, I decided to finally try and duplicate a tiramisu recipe that a client had given me last year. I was unfortunately unable to locate the exact recipe on the web, but I found a wonderful collection of tiramisu varieties here, worth perusing if you’re interested. Also, in the purchasing of a container of mascarpone or bag of ladyfingers, it is without a doubt that a similar recipe to the one I used will appear on the packaging.

Anyway, I was amazed at how easy it was – I made sure to make coffee and allow it to cool a few hours ahead of assembling the cake, but after that, the most time-consuming recipe item was beating the egg whites until stiff. I did find that the ladyfingers (my client recommended the “Tina” brand, which can be found at the Italian Centre) very quickly soaked up the coffee, so I had to be careful with the few seconds that they sat in the liquid.

Layering coffee-soaked ladyfingers atop the mascrapone mixture

After letting the tiramisu sit in the fridge overnight, it was ready to be eaten. The time in the fridge allowed all of the layers to fall into one another, with the coffee softening the ladyfingers to the point that it was difficult to guess that the cake-like texture actually came from a biscuit of sorts. My Mum would have preferred a thicker consistency for the cream, but I thought the lightness worked well with the dessert as a whole. However, I was looking for some more sweetness to round out the flavour – perhaps a hit of chocolate shavings or syrup would have provided that extra something.

There is no question that the end product was worth the small time invested, but I’m still not sure I would make this dessert again.

Tiramisu (I went a little overboard with the dusting of cocoa)

Calgary Food Sojourn

    I’ve timed an upcoming weekend in Calgary in order to take advantage of their Dine-Out week (which runs March 10-16). But with some research, I’ve found that high-priced dinners aren’t the only thing that our southern neighbour has to offer:

    • The establishment to visit at the top of my list isn’t actually a restaurant. I have heard nothing but good things about Phil & Sebastian Coffee, one of the vendors at the Calgary Farmer’s Market. From absolutely glowing media reviews to a near cult following on the Chowhound boards, it seems Phil & Sebastian’s has raised the coffee bar in Cowtown. I would like to try their French-pressed brewed coffee firsthand, and determine if expensive brewing equipment (in this case, a $10,000 Clover machine) really does make a difference.
    • For dinner, I’ve been cross-referencing the Dine-Out Calgary website with a few other sources, including FFWD’s “Best of” list from 2007 and of course, deferring to the experts on Chowhound. While the menus at JAROblue, Metropolitan Grill, and the River Cafe don’t really appeal to me, they do seem to be the names that I see repeated quite a bit. Out of them all, Q Haute Cuisine seems to be the winner (and reservations can conveniently be made via OpenTable too!).
    • I had an absolutely fabulous brunch experience at Diner Deluxe last year, and am hoping to find something equally as great. Avenue Diner didn’t live up to my expectations, but I have three other viable candidates that I have to choose from: Galaxie Diner, Belmont Diner, and the Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus. Nellie’s, which consistently appears on FFWD’s “Best of” list, also seems to attract a branding of being overrated. Perhaps I will have the opportunity to judge for myself in the future.

    On the topic of Calgary, the newly released My Favourite Cheap Eats: Calgary, Banff, Canmore, Foothills and beyond by food writer John Gilchrist focuses on lunches and dinners priced under $15 and $20, respectively, offered at independent eateries. Edmonton could definitely use such a publication.

    Any other restaurant or dining suggestions from those familiar with Calgary’s food scene?

    The Cooking Chronicles: Mimosa Eggs

    Despite getting a few requests to make my salad rolls again (who knew they were such a hit?), I wanted to take the latest potluck opportunity at work to test out a new recipe.

    I thought Laura Calder’s Mimosa Eggs would make a good candidate for portable, made-in-advance food, so I gave it a shot (turns out, only portable as long as a seat on the bus, without a brake-happy driver, is secured).

    I’ve been learning my egg boiling lessons, albeit slowly. The first time, a few weeks back, I ended up with a watery, still-uncooked egg, essentially poached in its own shell. The second time, I left them in the hot water too long, and the yolks turned that unattractive musty grey shade.

    This time, I didn’t quite get it Goldilocks (just right), but I came pretty close. I used shallots instead of the green onion, and a little less mayo than called for (I wanted the solid yolk to still have some crumble in each bite). It’s really a pretty easy recipe that would make a great cocktail party hors d’oeuvre, beautifully yellow on a plate, nicely accented with the vibrant red pinch of paprika. They’re nothing special, but are satisfyingly filling in two bites or less.

    Mimosa Eggs

    The Cooking Chronicles: Chicken Enchiladas

    CNN had dubbed today “Critical Tuesday”. I prefer “Mini Super Tuesday”.

    Regardless of the name, similar to the New Hampshire primary and Super Tuesday proper, I felt the need to have a proportional celebration, with food, of course. And in honour of the Lone Star state’s democratic turn, chicken enchiladas were on the menu to recognize the importance of the Hispanic vote (there is a bad joke somewhere to be made about how I could have substituted Indian or Chinese cuisine to represent Ohio, and the part of the world that their jobs are being sent to, but I’ll leave it at that). So with Mack as my ever-willing sous chef, and a recipe from Better Homes and Gardens, we attempted to put together a dish that even my picky sisters would eat.

    Along with the onions that Mack sauteed, some shredded rotisserie chicken, cream cheese, and a dash of cumin formed the tortilla filling. Unfortunately, the Western Family brand corn tortillas fell apart a little too easily as they were rolled, even after being warmed in the microwave. But doused in a sauce of cream cheese, condensed mushroom soup and milk, their imperfections were not noticeable.

    Mack had to wait a painful 35 minutes for the dish to bake in the oven, and another 5 or so for the added Monterey Jack cheese to melt on top, but it was worth it. The corn (as opposed to flour) tortillas were a good choice, and even the overall soppiness of the dish was all right in this context. I can’t doubt, however, the estimated nutrition facts listed at the end of the recipe – between the sour cream, cream cheese, Monterey Jack, and the mushroom soup, 610 calories seems like a steal. This is definitely not an everyday dish, but was a nice treat on “an historic” election evening.

    Chicken Enchiladas

    Ruth Reichl’s “Comfort Me with Apples”

    I haven’t consumed a book this fast since, well, Ruth Reichl’s Garlic and Sapphires.

    Comfort Me with Apples is a much more personal, less food-centric memoir than Garlic and Sapphires. Tracing the manner in which she and her first husband drifted apart, her enlightening, almost other-worldly journeys to Europe and Asia, and her developing relationship with the man who would become her second husband, I admire Reichl’s penchant for detail and confessional honesty. Her words, if I am allowed to say this, are so unexpected from a “food writer”, which is one of the reasons why her compositional risk-taking is so refreshing.

    Though Comfort Me is without the theatrical antics of Garlic‘s invented personalities, I enjoyed this book more. Being a part of her world, even as a mere reader, is addictive (Tender at the Bone is on request as we speak). The recipes in this text are great as well, and it won’t be long before I give her version of mushroom soup, or Danny’s lemon pasta, a spin.

    I continue to go back to her line which addresses A.J. Liebling’s quote: “The primary requisite for writing well about food is a good appetite.” Reichl’s response:

    “Liebling was wrong. Appetite is not enough. And knowledge is not sufficient. You can be a decent critic if you know about food, but to be a really good one you need to know about life. It took the next few years to teach me that. You’ll see.”

    Comfort Me with Apples exemplifies the notion that one’s life can be better than fiction. You’ll just have to read it to find out how much better.