Category: food

Contributing to Vue Weekly!

I’m pleased to include the link to my very first article for Vue Weekly, which was published today. Seeing my name in a print byline for the first time was pretty special, I have to admit, but more than that, I’m really proud of the article that I contributed.

I had the privilege to sit down and chat with Sebastian Lysz of Devlin’s a few weeks ago, and I have no qualms with saying that he made the interview easy. He was very open to answering my questions, and gave me more information than I needed to craft a coherent piece.

Because of our conversation, I probably won’t be able to objectively review Devlin’s while Lysz is at the kitchen’s helm, but then again, that’s why I have access to a fantastic Guest Blogger (heh).

I hope you enjoy the article!

The Cooking Chronicles: Individual Chocolate Cakes

While my Mum was busy carving and plating a Greens, Eggs and Ham duck she had roasted, I started on a quick dessert I had caught on a segment of Martha Stewart Living for Individual Chocolate Cakes.

A run to the supermarket gave me all of the ingredients I would need, and though I probably should have included a Pyrex glass bowl on that list (I cracked yet another non heat-proof one), my second batch escaped similar oversights.

After I combined all of the ingredients, I poured the mixture into four ramekins and put them in the fridge for safe keeping until we finished with the main course. When the plates were cleared, I turned on the oven and baked the cakes for the recommended ten minutes.

While two of the cakes came out perfect, the other two were still a bit underdone in the centres, and oozed a thick (warm) chocolate batter as I inverted them onto plates. That was a good time to rework the word “lava” into the name of the cakes I presented to my family, and they didn’t know the difference. Done again, I would have left them in the oven a touch longer, though really, the cakes were fine moist, especially when served with vanilla ice cream.

This would be a great dessert for a girls night in or an evening in front of the fire – pulled out from the fridge and into the oven when indulgence is called for.

Individual Chocolate Cake

Food Notes

  • It’s your last chance this year to soak up the outdoor market atmosphere at the City Centre Market this Saturday and bid adieu to the wonderful producers that grace 104th Street, at least until May 2009.
  • Hundred Bar & Kitchen, previewed in Bistro last week, is hoping to open this week. I’m keeping my fingers crossed for Chris Lachance.
  • Devlin’s has delayed the launch of its fall menu (which was initially slated for September 30). The cocktail lounge hopes to begin offering its seasonal dishes in the next few weeks.
  • The Hat Resto-Pub (the latest incarnation of The Silk Hat), is set to open on October 24.
  • Xtreme Asian Fusion (I still don’t know if this, or Phobulous, wins the award for worst Asian restaurant name in the city) received a favourable review in the Journal this week. Count me surprised, but then again, I was so off-put by the name that I would need prodding to walk through the eatery’s doors.
  • I was wondering about the south side location of Cafe Select, as it seemed to be closed during prime dining periods whenever I passed by. I noticed the other day that the interior has since been gutted, and the location removed from the website. I’m guessing this second branch was losing money for the company?
  • An interesting Q & A with Eugenio Rodrigues, co-owner of the Doggie Style Deli, the only restaurant in the city that literally caters to the dogs.
  • It’s one of my favourite commercial events of the year – when Starbucks releases their red cups and holiday drinks. Expect cups in stores on November 4th, with drinks to follow on November 28th. Details here.
  • The New York Times read my mind: I was just thinking about alternative uses for my rice cooker, and then this great starter article appeared.
  • Mack sent me a link to a convenience product that seems wholly unnecessary: peanut butter slices.
  • Given my terrible track record with finishing novels, it’s a miracle I ever completed reading Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma at all. It was a testament to the book itself – Pollan’s ease of translating some fairly complex processes into layman’s terms and his delicious curiosity into the subject made it an enjoyable read. The chapter about Polyface Farm was my definite favourite, and made me appreciate ecosystems in a way I never thought possible.
  • I tried the new Signature Hot Chocolate at Starbucks, pricey at $3.69 for a tall. It is quite a rich drink, good for those cold winter nights in front of a fire, but definitely not something I’d have every day.

Starbucks’ Signature Hot Chocolate

  • While it probably isn’t the best time to be lurking in dollar store aisles to hunt for cheap food deals (with the breadth of food scares lately), I can’t seem to resist a good bargain. Dollarama had boxes of “Pad Thai” for sale, which I bought for my emergency food cabinet at work. I had it for lunch the other day, and have to say it was quite disappointing, and not at all like the photo. Thankfully, it was only a dollar. What’s the best deal you’ve swiped for $1?

 

Pad Thai

 

Pad Thai prepared

The Cooking Chronicles: Autumn Housewarming

While I love hosting parties, they seem to take a lot out of me. Mack (and Kim’s) housewarming party is a good example.

They moved into their new apartment in May. I offered to help Mack with the housewarming preparations (mainly around menu planning), and started thinking about summer-appropriate foods to serve. June soon gave way to July, then August, and finally September, when Mack at last chose a date for the belated celebration.

To befit the cooler weather and seasonal produce, I felt a menu overhaul was in order. As well, I wanted to incorporate dishes that Mack himself would serve, namely, share plates and comfort food. And for my twist (something wholly unnecessary, but really a pleasure for me to work out) – the inclusion of at least one ingredient obtained from a local producer or manufacturer in each dish.

With those parameters in place, the following menu was born:

Housewarming menu (“lamb” should read “turkey” – I had lamb on the brain for some reason)

Every dish could be made or assembled in advance to be heated up just prior to guests arriving. The only tricky item was the turkey sliders, which would be formed that afternoon, but pan-fried while guests were snacking on other things – an entertaining faux-pas, I’m sure, but we were pretty attached to serving the mini burgers.

We spent most of Friday evening (after the debate, of course) in the kitchen, baking up cupcakes, cookies, and pita chips.

The idea for Chocolate Chai Spice Cupcakes were inspired by a similar flavour offered at Whimsical Cupcakes to celebrate the season. I found a recipe online that appealed to me even with the added step of grinding the spice mixture myself. It was a pretty fragrant mix that I wasn’t sure would work with the chocolate, but it turned out to be an interesting combination, great paired with a cup of coffee. The tops of the ‘cakes ended up being much too dry and crumbly, but that could have been a result of leaving them in the oven a few minutes too long. This was also the only item on my menu that lacked a local component, though I was so tempted to head to Kerstin’s to pick up some dark chocolate.

Chocolate Chai Spice Cupcakes

The unusual Coffee Shortbread recipe came to me by way of Flickr, which I followed to a blog. A modified Martha Stewart recipe, we used freshly-ground Transcend-roasted coffee in our cookies. The only instruction we neglected was “properly” chilling the shortbread before baking. I found the shortbread a little on the bland side, unfortunately, though Mack disagreed with me and gobbled up the leftovers once the guests departed.

Coffee Shortbread

We were up early on Saturday morning to head to the City Centre Market and ensure we had the pick of produce and meat. It was a lovely way to start a fall day, as though it was cool enough to remind us that cooler weather was ahead, the sun was bright and full of optimism for the weekend.

Back at the apartment, while Mack cleaned and tidied up, I continued with the food prep. Giada de Laurentiis’ Baked Penne with Roasted Vegetables was the easiest to start with. I wasn’t sure the bowl we had on hand was big enough to combine everything, but it turned out all right. Once this dish was assembled, I put it in the fridge, and would start heating it only after the nachos were out of the oven. I think this would be a great recipe to pull out for an autumn potluck – great texture, color, and a cinch to make. Leftovers also heat well in the microwave for a nice lunch the next day.

Colorful vegetables (Kuhmann’s squash made up the local ingredient)

Baked Penne with Roasted Vegetables

By the time I was done with the pasta, the ground bison meat we had picked up from Medicine Man Bison that morning had defrosted. The chili recipe I chose was something between the Medicine Man’s and another I had seen in Food for Thought magazine, primarily because I could not find the “Louisiana dip mix” called for in the former recipe. I had never made chili before, but after this experience, I will definitely make it again – the result was a delicious payoff for something so easy. The ground bison was notable – virtually no fat appeared when I browned it in the skillet, and at $12.50 for 2lbs, it was a decent price to pay for good quality meat. After I incorporated all the ingredients, we transferred the chili into my Mum’s borrowed slow cooker and let it simmer until the party started. It was a great dish to have on hand, as for those dropping by later in the evening, we could guarantee them something hot to eat. 

Hearty Bison Chili

Next were Rachel Ray’s Apple-Cheddar Turkey Burgers, something Mack and I had experimented with two weeks before. This time however, mini versions were on tap, built with Italian Bakery baby buns we picked up at the Italian Centre, and Greenvalley lettuce we bought at the Market. Though the turkey itself turned out to be resilient to over-cooking, done again, I’m not sure I would make them again for a large, informal group gathering. Trying to balance conversation/hosting duties while cooking the slider patties was too difficult a task.

Getting the buns ready (yes, I realized the burgers were missing apple slices…after Mack pointed it out)

Apple-Cheddar Turkey Sliders

Last but not least was assembling Mack’s Slammin’ Cheese Nachos – an item Mack would probably make and serve if he were to host the party on his own. We layered Don Antonio’s tortilla chips with mozzarella and cheddar cheese with diced olives, jalapenos, and roma tomatoes from Gull Valley Greenhouses. Kim suggested that we use glass pie dishes for the nachos which was a great idea – it meant we could bake and serve the nachos in the same container.

Mack’s Slammin’ Cheese Nachos

Once everything was in the fridge and ready to go, we were able to start setting up the table and the apartment itself.

Buffet-style

Drink bucket (the only true “relic” from my summer party plans, and one I wasn’t willing to give up)

Though there seemed to be some issues with the door buzzer (and people not being able to find the apartment just behind the fire doors), everyone made it all right. We had suggested that guests eat something prior to arriving, as I didn’t think we would be able to make enough to feed fifteen hungry mouths, but perhaps it was the wrong strategy to take, as many of our friends arrived with full stomachs.

Between nibbling, chatting, fun with fortune cookies and Transformers, it was a good night overall. And with the house broken in, it’s only a matter of time before the apartment will play host to another gathering of friends.

In the living room

Thanks to everyone for coming (and to my Mum for helping us out)! Mack’s photo set is here.

EDIT: I neglected to thank Jane in my post for bringing the hummus to go with the pita chips. Thanks again, Jane!

The Cooking Chronicles: Chicken Pesto Pot Pies

I had made pesto with some leftover fresh basil I bought at the farmer’s market a few weeks ago, intent on using it for a recipe for Chicken Pesto Pot Pies I saw in the fall issue of Our Compliments magazine. I finally had the chance this weekend.

We cheated with the potatoes, and used the store-bought powdered variety as directed in the recipe, but as we were using made-from-scratch pesto and cooking the chicken ourselves, I figured it was a fair trade off. We bought individual aluminum pie plates, and once we tossed the filling together, we divided the coated vegetables and chicken between the containers and topped them with scoops of mashed potatoes. We baked them for just under half an hour, and they were done, sizzling with some of the excess olive oil in the pesto and smelling wonderful.

Though the surface of the pies didn’t get as brown as they did in the magazine photo, the top of the potato round was somewhat crusty. The pies were essentially a shepherd’s pie made with pesto instead of gravy, but while I can’t say that the pesto flavour was distinct, these pies tasted lighter because of the gravy substitution – and had the benefit of a vibrant green color instead of a drab brown tinge.

We had a few leftover pies for supper the next night too, and as indicated in the recipe, these are great to make in advance and freeze for emergencies. I will be making them again.

Chicken Pesto Pot Pie

No Complaints: The Lingnan

It’s funny (and tragic) how it sometimes takes national bodies to draw attention to local institutions, but I found that this was the case with The Lingnan (10582 104 Street).

Food Network Canada chose the family behind The Lingnan to feature on their upcoming season of Family Restaurant, to begin airing January 2009. I saw the article in the Journal earlier this year, and noting the connection between the restaurant and Chicken for Lunch (Amy’s sons run the joint), convinced Mack to join me there for dinner on a random weekday.

Exterior

I had no complaints over the aesthetics of The Lingnan. The upstanding sign atop the building, eye-catching even two streets away, draws one’s attention to an area where a Chinese restaurant is a little unexpected, situated across from a dated business facility and behind an emergency response team office. Once through the (slightly shady looking) door, we were greeted by a cool, lush interior that we could not have predicted from the outside. Everything from the mirrored walls to the paneled ceiling was beautiful, even if slightly over-the-top. The high ceiling and open dining room made the space seem larger than it actually was, and afforded diners (amounting to about ten tables by the end of the evening) a sense of privacy. Although the restaurant is very obviously geared towards Western sensibilities (much like Blue Willow), I didn’t mind it because of their earnest, well-intentioned approach.

Dining room

The waiters, dressed in a “traditional” jacket (definitely over-the-top) were polite and surprisingly personable. After perusing the menu, Mack’s pick was his usual benchmark ginger beef ($12.50), while I was craving fried noodles. Though my original selection was a dish called “Crispy Noodles Chow Mein”, our adept waiter steered us toward the “Chinese Style Aristocratic Chow Mein” ($13.75, with shrimp). I guess I needed some instruction on reading the menu as it was exactly what I had in mind.

Menu

Drink menu in place of the more common Chinese zodiac (guess they’re really pushing the cocktails)

Mack’s Lingnan Pi Jiu with a hint of ginseng (brewed by local microbrewery, Alley Kat)

Before our dishes were brought to us, our waiter set up two metal plate warmers. Though a nice touch, we found them to be quite ineffective. At any rate, our food was out in no time.

Mack was quite happy with the ginger beef, noting that it was a “close second” behind Pagolac’s version. I found it pleasing enough – a decent beef-to-batter ratio and a tangy sauce that was slightly spicy. The chow mein was fine as well, with a reasonable quantity of shrimp included, and enough fried, crispy noodles to quash my craving. Mack didn’t like the soggy noodles in the centre of the dish, but I love the textural contrast and their sauce-laden goodness.

Ginger Beef

Chinese Style Aristocratic Chow Mein

The Lingnan, while offering nothing out of the ordinary in terms of solid Western Chinese dishes, does so in a clean environment and efficient manner.

Mack should pose like this in every picture

The Lingnan
10582 104 Street
(780) 426-3975
Monday-Thursday 5-11pm, Friday & Saturday 5pm-12am, Sundays & Holidays 4-8:30pm

Team NAIT Goes for the Gold!

Though it seems the world has just recovered from the massive spectacle that was in Beijing, over fifty countries are gearing up for an Olympic competition of a different nature.

Occurring once every four years, the Culinary Olympics take centre stage in Erfurt, Germany from October 19 to 22. NAIT is once again fielding a Canadian contingent, consisting of four individual competitors and a team of managers and coaches. The institution has represented Canada quite well in the past, winning two gold and two silver medals in 2004 and three gold medals in 2000.

Wanting to allow local purveyors of social media to comment directly on events at NAIT, Mack and I were invited to observe the team’s marathon 24 hour practice session over the weekend.

A competitor rests after lunch

Our arrival on Saturday afternoon was timed perfectly – we were able to join the group for lunch. Over a plate of chicken and mixed vegetables, we learned more about the gruelling preparation and the competition itself.

Coaches and competitors chatting in the kitchen

Though I was disappointed to find out that there wouldn’t be a tasting component to the session, we soon found out why. Being a “cold competition”, the food (while edible) would be judged on appearance alone, with criteria including food preparation, plate composition and presentation. Each item on the plate (including sauces) also require three layers of glaze, a time-consuming process as individual layers take time to set. As competitors only have twenty-four hours to ready their entries, much of the food will actually be prepared in NAIT’s kitchens to be transported overseas.

Glazing

All four competitors are recent graduates, but the Culinary Olympics are open to even those with many years of professional experience, making the task even more daunting for these young men. It was amazing to see the exquisite attention to detail. For example, an assembly glazing line ended with one chef poised with a heated needle, examining freshly glazed food for air bubbles to pop. Though all competitors start with a theoretical 100 points, deductions are made by judges for even the slightest mistakes and imperfections.

Looking for air pockets

Plates plastic-wrapped to prevent soiling (brought to you by Saran!)

After a quick tour of the massive kitchen (a baker’s dream!), we went home with intentions of returning at 8am the following morning to see the fruit of a hard night’s labour.

We were astonished with the transformation of the dining area. White plates of gleaming food greeted us, poised under spotlights on elegantly-decorated tables.

Desserts (those “bills” are made entirely of chocolate)

Absolutely stunning platter

Having been told each dish should mimic the portion size to be expected in a restaurant, I think I was expecting more food to be present on each plate – I probably could have gobbled up the intended three-course meal in an instant. And though the glaze was meant to preserve the vitality of each exhibition, it seemed to sap the “life” out of some dishes. At the end of the day, however, there was no question the amount of planning and work that had gone into every creation.

Lamb

Lobster (the frisse looks great glazed)

Salmon

Quiche (I just had to take a picture of it)

 

Beautiful tart (and no, that’s not ice cream you’re looking at – it’s lard made to look like ice cream)

As we snapped photos, coaches and past Olympic participants were offering their feedback on how to improve their dishes – sauce too dull-colored, an additional protein needed, an extra garnish. All competitors took the criticisms in stride, jotting down notes to learn what else they could do to earn a medal score.

 

Jack receives some suggestions

Thanks to NAIT for the invitation – it was a great experience to see these young chefs in action. Best of luck to Team NAIT in Germany!

My (small) photo set is here, Mack’s here, and NAIT’s here.

Mom is Always Right: Nhon Hoa

My officemate was recently asking me about cheap eats in our area. I immediately directed him to the Italian Bakery and Nhon Hoa.

Nhon Hoa (10622 97 Street), with two locations within a stone’s throw of each other, was a frequent stop in my childhood. Not for me (I didn’t learn to appreciate food until I was well into adulthood), but for my Mum, who knew that Vietnamese subs were not only dirt cheap, but darn tasty.

All sandwiches have the same base – toasted French-style baguette, and layers of homemade mayo, pickled carrots, cucumber, cilantro, and (optional) hot peppers. Her favourite variety was (and still is) the combination sub, while I gravitate toward the safer option of shredded, fried pork ($3.25). Freshly put together and wrapped securely in saran wrap, the subs are take-away ready. In my opinion, the fresh cilantro and the homemade sauce are what make the sandwich.

My Banh Mi (menu here)

My only complaint about the Nhon Hoa I patronize is the lack of seating. The counter shares a space with a BBQ meat seller, and every visit, I marvel at the familiarity of the patrons with the shopkeepers – they’re “coffee shop regulars”, but for smoked pork and duck. I would love to hang out and observe the interactions further. And though I’m content to take my food to a nearby park to eat while it’s still warm, this option won’t exist in the winter months.

If you’re looking for a nice lunch that won’t break the bank (and will actually save you enough money so you can pop into the nearby Italian Bakery to pick up something sweet for dessert), head to Nhon Hoa. You won’t be disappointed.

Nhon Hoa 2
10622 97 Street
(780) 425-3257
Daily 10am-7pm, closed Tuesdays

Food Notes

  • Via Chowhound: Bacon, the eatery known for locally-sourcing ingredients and serving up comfort food favourites, closed as of September 9. Their message indicates that the proprietors may move into a different space in the future, but provide no details.
  • Xtreme Asian Fusion (with a name like that, how can they go wrong?) is hosting their grand opening on September 15. Located at 10508 101 Street, phone (780) 413-3338.
  • Whimsical Cupcakes (14910 45 Avenue) will be offering their first-ever Happy Hour on September 27. Samples of “Ruby”, along with “shots” of milk will be free, and cupcakes will be priced at a discounted $1.75 each.
  • Today was the last day to get discounted early bird tickets to the upcoming Rocky Mountain Wine and Food Festival, running October 22-25 at the Shaw Conference Centre. I think I’ll only end up going if they have coupons for free food and drink tickets in the paper, as per last year.
  • Liane Faulder published her first in a series of many to come about home entertaining. I like the angle (everyday cooks with good ideas), but I hope for two things: that the cooking starts to reflect the change in season around us (this week’s was decidedly summery), and that she features at least one party based in an apartment/condo/similarly small space.
  • Mack told me about two episodes on SmibsTV featuring Poul Mark of Transcend Coffee – worth a look if you want to learn more about the local roaster.
  • For those early risers – McDonald’s is giving away free small cups of coffee for the month of September…between 5 and 7am.
  • Joining Daniel Boulud in Vancouver, Jean-Georges Vongerichten will be opening Market in the new Shangri-La Hotel in January 2009.
  • A related article, about Daniel Boulud’s New York invitation to three of Vancouver’s top chefs – apparently there is more camaraderie between chefs in Vancouver than in Toronto.
  • My friend Caezer introduced Annie and I to the Old Szechuan Restaurant (10703 103 Street) recently. I would never, ever, have wandered into the converted house on my own, and was really surprised to find that it was actually quite busy. We ordered a good cross-section of dishes, all exceptionally spicy, but all prepared quite well. Though I can’t say I’ll be back (even tea couldn’t help alleviate the spice), it was a good reminder to be careful to not always judge a restaurant by its cover.

 

Ma Po Tofu (Echo would be proud that I ordered this)

 

Boiled Lamb (tasted better than it sounds)

 

Diced chicken and peppers (as spicy as it looks)

The Cooking Chronicles: Apple-Cheddar Turkey Burgers and Sweet Potato Fries

My inner control freak always has me conducting a run through of dishes I plan on making for a party prior to the event, in order to catch anything that might make it difficult the day of. For Mack’s upcoming housewarming, this meant trying recipes for Sweet Potato Fries and Apple-Cheddar Turkey Burgers this weekend.

We tweaked the sweet potato fries to include what we had on hand, which resulted in a coating of olive oil, brown sugar, garlic salt and taco seasoning. They turned out quite nice in the end, with a  sweet coating and a nice crunch. We still need to try another batch using the more recognizable orange yam.

Sweet Potato Fries

We halved the recipe for turkey burgers, as it was just the two of us, and substituted something labeled “Montreal Seasoning” in place of the Grill Seasoning, as it was all we could find in the bulk spice section of Save-On Foods. The patties cooked for six minutes on each side, as noted in the instructions, but the tenting didn’t quite work so well. Instead, I stuck the cheese-topped patties in the warm oven for a few minutes. Placed on a kaiser roll with a slice of granny smith apple, it made for a satisfying supper – the Montreal spice, in the words of Guy Fieri, was “money.” We are planning on making mini versions of this burger for the party.

Apple-Cheddar Turkey Burger (with a Bacardi Breezer product placement in the background)