Culinary Q & A with Jeff Samsonow

The HatOccupation: Non-profit broadcasting coordinator/Editor-in-Chief of theedmontonian.com

What did you eat today?

For breakfast: Coffee (Some Level Ground Peruvian medium blend)
Some delicious bacon cooked in the oven, and bought at the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market from First Nature Farms. A banana.

Lunch: Minestrone and a two-cheese sandwich from Bistro 112. This is my (day-job) work coffee place and I’m grateful to have it so close. A couple of crunchy B.C. apples (forget which kind).

Dinner: At The Hat
Canadian sliders (double-smoked bacon, chedder and monteray jack cheeses, yum)
Caesar salad (with more double-smoked bacon)
Amber’s Brewing’s Australian Mountain Pepper Berry

What do you never eat?

I’m not a fan of artichoke.

What is your personal specialty?

I’m becoming fond of a 3-cheese macaroni and cheese recipe we found in a clean living magazine. I also dig roasted chicken and gravy as per Jamie Oliver’s specs.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Orange Juice. We love orange juice.

What is your weekday meal standby?

Chicken and rice. The chicken cut and preparation may vary, but it seems like we tend to have these two items on hand quite a lot. Bless our steamer.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

The good knife. (We have two cutting/chopping knives and one is better.)

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

It’s going to be an amazing steak, with lots of baked potatoes (and butter), peas and bacon, and a bottle of red wine. (Yes a whole bottle. The world’s ending.)

Where do you eat out most frequently?

It used to be the old Next Act. Now, we’ve been in flux. So, I’m open to people’s ideas. (Since I started writing this e-mail I’ve found we’ve been to The Pour House a handful of times – it’s the old Flavours.)

Where’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Madison’s Grill (I say that even though I haven’t been in some time.)

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I’m going to go with New York City. It seems like the kind of place I could actually get a taste of most of the world’s food.

As Jeff mentioned, he is the EIC of The Edmontonian – my go-to website to get a round-up of the day’s headlines.

Food Notes for November 8, 2010

It was a bit of a whirlwind week at work – a (too) tight proposal deadline (thankfully, we made it), and my first ever (co)presentation at a conference (it went really well!). Unfortunately, this wasn’t the storm – instead, it is the beginning of a month-long sprint…but at least there’s Christmas to look forward to! Onto this week’s food notes:

  • I am so looking forward to the Christmas on the Square Holiday Light Up on Churchill Square. Not only is the 5pm fireworks show one of the best in the city, but this year, expect nearly 50 City Market vendors, starting at 11 a.m. Hope to see you there!
  • The Local Food Values Chain workshop is being held on November 19, 2010. RSVP by November 12.
  • Congrats to November’s Delux Burger Celebrity Chef, Jerry Aulenbach! Chris has some great photos of the launch at the Bourbon Street Delux on Friday.
  • Nick Lees mentioned last week that Corso 32, Daniel Costa’s new restaurant at 10345 Jasper Avenue should be open at the end of this month. It’ll be nice to have another option close by.
  • Saturday’s Journal mentioned a new-ish south Indian restaurant called Shudh (3464 93 Street).
  • Liane wrote about her new favourite hole-in-the-wall restaurant, Won Jung Gak in the Journal last week – I would imagine it has been inundated with new customers in the same way Bubba’s BBQ and Smoke House was following its review.
  • Both the Journal and Twyla reviewed The Marc – in the former, I liked the honesty from Patrick Saurette that things “take a long time to come together”. So short of their signature dishes like their beef cheek and lamb shank, it’s likely the loyal patrons that are the repeat customers at this point.
  • Twyla also reviewed Battista’s Calzones, a new restaurant on Alberta Avenue – it sounds delicious, I hope to try it soon!
  • We are very lucky to have our very own local test kitchen – aka Valerie’s home. This past week, she experimented with duck vs. chicken egg crème brulee.
  • A great gift for the person in your life that strives to cook sustainably: the Ocean Wise cookbook.
  • Is a Kobe beef burger not upscale enough for you? How about shaved white truffles on your burger then – and all for just $45!
  • Bon Appetit just announced their new Editor-in-Chief, to replace long time editor Barbara Fairchild: Adam Rapoport comes from a pedigree that most recently included a decade at GQ.
  • The brown paper has finally gone up at the newest location of Bistro Praha. The countdown to December begins for fans of this restaurant!

Bistro Praha

Coming soon…

  • Kathryn and I had lunch at Culina Millcreek this week. They changed the ham & cheese sandwich ($13) since my last lunch visit – I loved the Sylvan Star cheese, and couldn’t believe the amount of roasted pork in my sandwich. And of course – the sweetness from the Prairie Mill raisin bread just elevated the sandwich that much more. Kathryn equally enjoyed her house sandwich

Culina Millcreek

Ham & cheese with vegetable barley soup

Culina Millcreek

House sandwich

  • You know Christmas is coming soon when Starbucks releases their annual Red Cup! I’m not sure I’m a huge fan of the designs this year, but I love the season that this ushers in!

2010 Red Cup

2010 Red Cup

  • Mack and I had a great time at Kat Danser’s concert on Friday night – she just released her third CD, called Passin’-a-Time. It was fun to be able to attend the show with a few other coworkers! It was also our first time at the Arden Theatre, which we found to be a beautiful venue.

Kat Danser

Inside the Arden Theatre

Me, Swamy, Kathryn

Me, Swamy and Kathryn (we’re going to miss Swamy – she’s leaving us for a volunteer placement in Peru with CUSO in two weeks)

  • The coolest “perk” about presenting at the conference this weekend was to be able to get a glimpse of the Royal Suite on the 23rd floor at the Crowne Plaza (it served as the hospitality room for presenters) – I had no idea Chateau Lacombe even had a balcony!

Crowne Plaza

Gorgeous view – the photo doesn’t quite do it justice

The Cooking Chronicles: Cold Weather Comfort

It’s a little comical to me that every time I seem to get to posting about cold weather comfort foods, it actually ends up being unseasonably warm outside. Not that I’m complaining or anything – I’d welcome a continuation of such mild weather well into December! Anyway – should the temperatures start to drop again, I’ll likely be drawn again to dishes similar to the two below.

Potato and Leek Soup

A recipe for Molly Katzen’s potato and leek soup was a recent recommendation from Marilyn, and easily incorporated mostly local produce – leeks from Kuhlmann’s, potatoes from Greens, Eggs and Ham, carrots from Sundog Organic, and, well, celery from Superstore.

Potato and Leek Soup

Pureed soups look so much nicer in the pre-blender stage

I loved the consistency of the soup, achieved from the addition of milk instead of cream, and the ratio of the liquid to puree in this recipe. Sometimes I crave the stick-to-your-ribs kind of soup, but not on that night.

Potato and Leek Soup

Potato and leek soup

Chic Macaroni and Cheese

Though our favourite macaroni and cheese recipe is courtesy of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, I was curious about a recipe for chic macaroni and cheese that was printed in the Journal a few weeks ago – not only did it call for eggs, but evaporated milk instead of cream. The only modification I made was doubling the amount of pasta – it seemed a little absurd to use just 1.5 cups of macaroni to 6 cups of cheese.

Chic Macaroni and Cheese

Chic macaroni and cheese (I’ve got to get a new brand of panko – it never seems to brown for me)

The addition of eggs meant the macaroni and cheese resembled a casserole. It was cheesy, but not in the creamy, saucy way that I prefer (I realize it may also have had something to do with my cheese-to-pasta shift). It was all right, but next time the mac and cheese craving hits, you better believe I’ll be “Triple D”-ing it up again!

The 2010 Annual Chili Cookoff

On Friday, I convinced Ellen to ditch the lunch being provided at the conference we were attending in favour of walking over to Scotia Place to meet Mack and take in the 20th Annual Chili Cookoff, organized by the Downtown Business Association.

20th Annual Chili Cook Off

To the left for chili!

Though Mack has attended before, I’ve never been able to make it. After this experience, I can see why this event is so popular. It’s the closest we have to Calgary’s Sun & Salsa event in Kensington – food sampling that goes to a good cause. In this case, all proceeds would be donated to the Alberta Council of Women’s Shelters.

Twenty organizations put their best chili forward to vie for the 2010 title of “ultimate chili”. Competitors included the obvious suspects like hotels and area restaurants to companies such as Hemisphere Engineering, and not-for-profits like the Kidney Foundation and Boyle Street Co-op.

It was a pretty efficient setup – two tables in Scotia Place were devoted to selling chili receptacles for $2 a pop (unfortunately, they were styrofoam, accompanied by plastic spoons) so no money was changing hands at each of the sampling stations. The narrow aisles were somewhat congested, but thankfully, we were able to park ourselves in the “overflow” areas outside the main thoroughfares to consume our samples.

Crowd

Chili frenzy

Entertainment was provided on a small stage, which definitely lightened the mood, and matched the festive decor  around the foyer.

Entertainment

Loved the little chefs!

I couldn’t imagine having to be a judge (Karlynn Johnston of Kitchen Magpie wrote about her experience) – to have to determine the best of twenty chilis would be challenging, with palates easily overrun by the heat. Thus, it was no surprise that the varieties that distinguished themselves from the common ground beef base were the ones that were memorable, and rewarded for being unique.

Scott

Scott Lingley of See Magazine, one of the judges, was nice enough to pose for a photo (covering up his scores though, of course!)

We agreed with the judges’ top three, though not necessarily in that order. The Edmonton Symphony Orchestra placed third with their smoky chili that tasted like baked beans (it also didn’t hurt that their recipe included bacon).

L2 nabbed second place with my favourite – a chicken-based chili, with a strong hint of lime. After several spicy samples, it was refreshing to encounter the citrus twist. They also had the best booth, hands down, with all servers dressed up in Hollywood costumes.

L2

L2 getting their star power on!

As for first? Drumroll please…Hardware Grill took top honours with their amazingly tender stewed beef-based chili. Scott shared that their recipe also featured some “exotic” ingredients, including tamarind and anchovy. Mack also really loved the corn muffin that topped the sample.

Hardware Grill

Chili from Hardware Grill

Other notable chilis included Zinc’s alpaca version (the ground alpaca was much better and more flavourful than in the meatball format that we tried earlier this week), Hemisphere Engineering’s chocolate chili, made even more complex with a hint of Danish blue cheese (Ellen and I joked about finding her a “dessert chili”, and this was as close as we could get), and the Westin’s vegetarian chili, a bold, meatless choice that didn’t suffer for flavour at all.

The Westin

The Westin’s vegetarian masterpiece

Our least favourite was, sadly, from one of our favourite shops in our neighbourhood – deVine’s. Ellen described it as bland, then unnecessarily spicy, but worst of all was the texture – we all agreed it was akin to baby food.

I thought I wouldn’t be full – but even between the three of us, we weren’t able to finish 12 small samples, in spite of the fact that consuming a large bowl of chili in one sitting for dinner hasn’t ever been a problem. Perhaps it was the variety?

Mack

More chili?

It was also great to see that some stations had utilized local ingredients in their recipes, such as the inclusion of alpaca by Zinc, and the use of TK Ranch beef by CBC.

All in all, it was a fun event – I was happy to have finally been able to see what the Chili Cookoff was all about – here’s to twenty more years!

Location, Location: Viet Huong Noodle House

In September, I noticed that Viet Huong Noodle House would be moving a few blocks east into the Chinatown space that had been vacated by Hoang Long. Knowing a makeover of their restaurant on 107 Avenue was in dire need, it seemed a move into a more modern and frequented street would do them well. After a lunch date with Jill and Swamy at the new Viet Huong last week, I’m happy to say the change was definitely for the better!

The walls, a deep, autumnal yellow, were left untouched from the previous tenants, as was the furniture, and both were a definite improvement over the dated interior of their former location. Both the flat screen television and fish tank of blood parrots migrated here, and the bright tank in particular looked very much at home in a space bathed in natural light.

The restaurant was also notably half-full, but it didn’t drastically affect our wait time. The pho was good – the broth was the same – solid, but not spectacular – and the serving was as generous as I remembered. Of course, food somehow always tastes better with good company, and this instance was no exception!

Viet Huong

Beef noodle soup with beef balls

Viet Huong

Spicy seafood noodle soup

Viet Huong

Chicken with cashews over rice

It’s always nice to have more options in Chinatown, especially because of the unpredictable hours of some restaurants nearby like Pho Tau Bay. I’ll be back!

Food Notes for November 1, 2010

Only AMC could get me to watch a television show featuring zombies. In spite of the fact that I am averse to all things horror and fear-inducing, last night, after a barrage of previews during the Mad Men finale, there I was, watching the premiere of their new series, The Walking Dead. And inevitably, I am now hooked. Anyone else see it? Onto this week’s food notes:

  • A reminder that the Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Show takes place this weekend, November 5-6, 2010, at the Shaw Conference Centre.
  • Gordon Ramsay will be in Edmonton on November 13, at WEM’s Chapters (thanks Lisa for the Tweet!)
  • Christmas stock-up alert: Company’s Coming is having their next scratch & dent sale on November 13, 2010 from 9 a.m. – 3 p.m. at 2311-96 Street, with an opportunity to meet Jean Pare!
  • There’s a new cheesemonger in town! Everything Cheese opened up in Riverbend on October 29, with their grand opening slated for November 6, 2010.
  • Thanks to A for a comment about a forthcoming Brazilian churrascaria restaurant called Pampa that she says be moving into the space formerly occupied by Mirabelle. Looking forward to the all-you-can-eat meat!
  • Looks like Edmonton will soon get its first Beard Papa in West Edmonton Mall (they serve cream puffs – we sampled a few in San Francisco).
  • Manna Noodle (3212 Parsons Road) seems to have changed hands (or at least their name?) – driving past I noticed the sign now reads Hanuri Korean Restaurant.
  • The Marc got a few hits from local bloggers this week: from Jean Poutine at May Contain Nuts; and from Marianne: “ Overall, we had a good experience; that said, Charles brought up this morning that with their limited and static menu (save the daily fish and desserts), there’s nothing drawing him back any time soon.”
  • Marianne also reviewed Pourhouse last week.
  • This was fun: City and Dale posted the results of a blind cupcake tasting – I’m glad to see that Whimsical and Flirt both did well!
  • I’m really looking forward to the opening of the Enjoy CentreLiane posted that Julianna Mimande has just found her chef, Shaun Hicks.
  • Congratulations to Andrew Fung of Blackhawk Golf Course for taking the top prize at last week’s 2010 Gold Medal Plates (you can see the Journal’s photos here). Interestingly enough, three of the last four champions have won with Asian fusion dishes.
  • Congratulations also to the team behind the Green & Gold Garden, who raised $21,587.00 for the Tubahumurize Association to help women in Rwanda. They will be planning on operating a garden next year.
  • GMO-salmon have been in the news lately – CBC has a great interview with John Buchanan, director of research and development for AquaBounty.
  • A belated send-off – Mack and I had lunch at Madison’s Grill a few weeks back to wish Chef Blair Lebsack well on his European travels, and more importantly, to get him on Twitter. He was nice enough to treat us to their Sylvan Star grilled cheese sandwiches as promised (the spicy tomato ketchup could be eaten with everything), and though we are sad to see him go – he will be back next year, hoping to have his own restaurant open in fall 2011. Safe travels, Blair!

Madison's Grill

Sylvan Star gouda and gruyere grilled cheese sandwich

  • With the demand for gluten-free options, it was no surprise to see a sign advertising a forthcoming GF bakery on 109 Street and 105 Avenue called Auntie B’s.

Auntie B Gluten Free Bakery

Auntie B’s

  • After a media dinner at ZINC tonight (you’ll be seeing many write-ups of it around the blogosphere in the next few days), Mack and I stopped by City Hall to check out the revised version of the Capital City Downtown Plan. Of note: the plan makes mention of providing assistance to growing food downtown, as well as a multi-purpose arts/city market space. The plan goes to City Council on December 6, 2010.

Capital City Downtown Plan

Capital City Downtown Plan display

The Cooking Chronicles: Inspired Failure

Liane mentioned recently that Inspired magazine by Sobeys is useful in getting out of a cooking rut. I’d have to agree. Unlike some store-produced publications, it doesn’t lean heavily on the use of processed products, and the colour photos are engaging and inviting. Best of all, it’s free!

We recently tried two recipes out of their Fall 2010 issue – but to varying levels of success, unfortunately.

Chicken Stew with Oat Dumplings

First, a recipe for a chicken stew with oat dumplings caught my eye.

I should not have used such a large Dutch oven to start with, as I ended up adding more broth to make up for the fact that the oat dumplings weren’t fully immersed in liquid. It turned out that was a good choice anyway, since the dumplings absorbed so much of the stock as they cooked.

The dumplings themselves (a combination of flour, oats, baking powder, thyme and salt) were flavourless, however, chewy and tasting like partially-cooked dough. I’m not sure if my substitution of regular Highwood Crossing rolled oats instead of quick-cooking oats was the cause of the poor outcome or not (or the fact that I made them too large), but my preference for next time would be a simple chicken stew without the dumplings.

Chicken Stew with Oat Dumplings

Chicken stew with dumplings (the dumplings look almost like cauliflower florets in the picture)

I served the stew with savoury cheddar cornmeal muffins from Muffin Mania – I’d definitely make them again. They were a nice alternative to the usual bread accompaniment.

Cheddar Cornmeal Muffins

Cheddar cornmeal muffins (I omitted the additional cheese on top)

Acorn Squash with Harvest Rice Stuffing

I had picked up a beautiful acorn squash from Kuhlmann’s on the last day of the City Market, as well as a bag of wild rice from MoNa, intending on combining the two using an Inspired recipe for acorn squash with harvest rice stuffing.

Our first error was to have used (again) too shallow of a pan to cook the rice – the rice started to stick before it had a chance to fully cook. More than anything though, we probably should have prepared the rice following the package directions instead of a straight substitution, then adding the aromatics after. I will say that the cranberries were a lovely addition, offering an unexpected burst of sweetness.

The squash, on the other hand, roasted up perfectly in the oven, fork tender and ready to be devoured. What we found, however, is that we much prefer this type of squash in purees, soups or as ravioli filling – the slightly stringy texture was a bit off-putting to us. We finished our halves, but it was a chore.

Acorn Squash with Harvest Rice Stuffing

Acorn squash with rice stuffing

Not all is lost though – there are still a few more recipes I’d like to try from the issue, including one for blueberry & brown butter squares.

LitFest: Genu-Wine

I was happy to be invited to LitFest’s Genu-Wine this year, though I have to say I didn’t know what to expect. The festival program was vague: “LitFest tackles serious global issues, accompanied by samples of seriously good wine”, but I was looking forward to seeing how it would all come together.

Mack and I walked over to the Kids in the Hall Bistro on Saturday night, and encountered a packed venue. A few stand-up cocktail tables were set-up, but halfway through the evening, patrons moved them aside to make room for more chairs. The room, with a buffet table, a wine station and a podium, was unfortunately arranged without proper flow – I had to think the organizers didn’t anticipate such a large crowd.

IMG_1754

The spread (there was actually quite a bit of food)

Associate producer Shauna Sisson told us later that LitFest had always wanted to put on a “schmoozing” event, and this was their first attempt at combining wine with snippets of literary works. While festival organizers deserve kudos for trying something new, the format of Genu-wine probably needs further tweaking.

It seemed straightforward enough – the host would introduce one of the four authors and the wine to be sampled following the reading, the author would talk about their work, and end with a reading from their book. The audience was then invited up to help themselves to glasses of Yellow Tail wine (which had all been donated for the event), while enjoying upbeat tunes from Don Berner. Repeated three times, with brief moments to network in between authors, it felt choppy.

IMG_1760

Alice Major

The authors themselves accomplished what they needed to do, however – provoking discussion in the crowd. Andrew Potter, musing on the idea (and fallacy) of “authenticity” and Dan Gardener on the nonsensical belief in predictions incited the most debate in our group, but Alice Major was undoubtedly the most eloquent and Lawrence Scanlan the most poignant (and my favourite of the evening), with his excerpt on the rebuilding in New Orleans.

IMG_1771

Andrew Potter addresses the crowd

And though they were the cheesiest portions of the evening, I loved how the organizers cheekily tried to connect random varieties of wine with the authors (I will never think of “bubbles rose” in the same way again).

IMG_1775

Yellow Tail line-up

I’m not sure what I would suggest to make the event better (two readings in a row? more time between readings?), but I think the casual, informal vibe of the evening is worth maintaining. I’ll be interested to check out Genu-Wine next year, whatever its incarnation.

Food Notes for October 25, 2010

I could make reference to our first snowfall of the year, but that’s a bit depressing. So instead, I’ll talk about Glee. In a few short weeks, Mack and I have become full-on Gleeks. I’m not sure how it happened – we weren’t watching it at the height of its popularity earlier last season…but somehow, stumbled upon a few episodes, and well, we’re hooked. Airing tomorrow: the Rocky Horror Picture episode! Onto this week’s food notes:

  • Take note, cupcake fans! Crave will be invading Edmonton in January 2011, moving into the space formerly occupied by damon j (7929 104 Street), next to Planet Organic south. Can three cupcakeries within two blocks of each other survive?
  • Sure, it might be too early to talk about Christmas, but the Holiday Cocktails evening at deVine’s on December 2, 2010 sounds like the perfect way to usher in the season. On the menu: a Candy-cane Martini, Cranberry Snowdrift, Christmas Sour and Ginger Snap, among others.
  • Many people were sad when Pharos shut down, but it turns out it isn’t gone for good – it will be reopening above Haven Social Club.
  • The Edmontonian reviewed Press’d Sandwiches last week: “The sandwich itself is BIG. Did I mention that?”
  • The Journal gave a thumbs up to the revamped Next Act on Wednesday: “The Next Act is an unassuming class act, a wonderful remount of an old favourite, and one of the best restaurant values in Strathcona, where honest, thoughtfully prepared plates rule.”
  • Chris wrote about a special dinner he had at Joey’s, courtesy of Corporate Chef Chris Mills, presented in preparation for a meal to be presented at the James Beard House – don’t read this hungry! Vlad in Calgary had a similar experience.
  • Vue had a great piece on Alan and Nicola Irving (of Irvings Farm Fresh), and their learning curve when it came to sausage making.
  • Jennifer Cockrall-King is offering her annual food writing course at Grant MacEwan in November.
  • Since the Double Down was released in Canada on October 18, I was expecting blog reviews of the monstrosity of a sandwich. Mack and I plan on conquering it one day (morbid curiosity, much?), but in the meantime, I am living vicariously through Andree’s review.
  • I’m not sure why I was naive enough to think The French Laundry was the only restaurant in North America to Google diners, but it’s just amazing to me that some restaurants have the resources to do so (the Eleven Madison Park anecdote is pretty awesome).
  • I stopped by Far East Sandwiches (10301 109 Street) on Saturday on my way to meet a friend. Turns out that like V Sandwiches on Rice Howard Way, they are bringing the banh mi to the masses. And while I realize the sandwich itself might be larger (and their rent more expensive – especially for such a beautiful, bright space), paying nearly $5 for something that can be had in Chinatown for $3.50 is something I’m not sure I could do.

Far East Sandwiches

Far East Sandwiches

Irvings Farm Fresh

Alan’s new stall

Peas on Earth

Gorgeous flowering cabbages from Peas on Earth (I’ve never seen these before)

Slow Food Edmonton Dairy Farm Field Trip

Some Slow Food Edmonton events are all about eating, like Indulgence and Beer and Boar. Others are more about getting to know fellow members, like the Wood Fired Solstice and the annual potluck at Mary Bailey’s residence. The focus of the Dairy Farm Field Trip at the end of September was learning.

We are very lucky to have someone as enthusiastic as Valerie in the organization – she is so energetic and positive it makes my head spin sometimes. She had the great idea of arranging a group field trip to two of our local dairy farms – Sylvan Star Cheese and Bles-Wold Dairy – and ending the day with a meal at Eco Café. Seats sold out quickly, which, although priced at $75 a ticket, was a fair price given the inclusion of three meals, the tours and transportation to and from the farms.

We were up and at ‘em early – we had to be at Southgate Mall before 8:30 a.m. Thankfully, we live right on the LRT line, which made the trip fast and convenient. Our premature wake up call was made better by the two sweet and savoury scones that greeted us upon arrival, fresh out of the oven from Duchess.

I’m fairly certain it was the butter in the scones that pushed me into nap territory, but when I woke up, we had arrived at our first destination – Sylvan Star Cheese in Red Deer County.

Sylvan Star Cheese

Sylvan Star Cheese

They were a new vendor at the City Market this year, but I was familiar with their award-winning cheese from Planet Organic, and restaurants such as Madison’s Grill who have featured their product on their menus. Though I enjoy their cheese (particularly the cumin-spiced gouda and the aged cheddar), I know the price is a deterrent for us to use it as an everyday cheese. Still, I was looking forward to see their new home, with expanded cheese making (and aging) facilities.

Sylvan Star Cheese

Market

Jan Schalkwijk was our host for the tour. First, he invited us to help ourselves to samples of their cheese. Mack and I were able to try a few varieties, which was good enough for us (10 in the morning as it was), but I was hoping for a guided tasting from the expert himself – for example, running through flavours and textures to look for.

Sylvan Star Cheese

Tasting Platter

After the snack break, Jan told us how he got into cheesemaking in Alberta – essentially, because he couldn’t find good cheese here after immigrating from Holland, he decided to use the skills he had to make good cheese himself.

Sylvan Star Cheese

Jan introduces his business

Though Jan was fantastic at answering questions, I thought the tour side of things could have been better thought out – we could have started on the factory floor, for example, where the cheese is made, then worked our way to the aging and smoking rooms.

Sylvan Star Cheese

The smoker (Jan uses maple wood)

Regardless, it was a little frustrating not being able to hear our guide. Jan unfortunately does not have a voice that carries, and most often, our large group were in rooms where it was difficult to hear him due to a combination of factors including space constraints and whirring fans. A microphone – or dividing the group – would have helped immensely.

Sylvan Star Cheese

Where the cheese is made

Though I didn’t get as much from the tour as I would have wanted, it really was neat to see the humidity-controlled rooms where the cheese is aged. At the end of each of the shelves was a post-it containing the batch date – for the first sixty days, the wheels are turned once a day to prevent mould, and after that, turned once a week.

Sylvan Star Cheese

With my birthday batch of cheese!

It was also hard not to appreciate their expansive facility. Though there seem to be few employees on his team, they have ensured that they will have ample room to grow. The room below, for example, will be their new cheese aging room – it was absolutely massive, but given their increasing popularity, it’s not surprising.

Sylvan Star Cheese

Coming soon – another cheese aging room

Valerie’s post on this trip is much more detailed, particularly on this aspect of the day. She also has many great photos of the facility!

Sylvan Star Cheese

Mack loves cheese!

Before departing for our next stop, we had a nice soup and sandwich lunch, where we were able to socialize with Sherene and Su.

Sylvan Star Cheese

A tasty minestrone soup – just what I needed that morning

A half hour later, we arrived at Bles-Wold. Unlike Sylvan Star, Bles-Wold yogurt is something that I regularly have on hand – their fruit yogurt is thick, not too sweet, and is definitely more substantial than commercial varieties – and their plain yogurt is my go-to choice for salad dressings and other recipes. When we drove up to the farm, it was reassuring to see that the red barn pictured on their containers actually exists, and happens to be where the yogurt is made!

Bles Wold

Bles-Wold Dairy

This tour experience was much more organized. The group was split into two right off the bat – my group followed Hennie upstairs for an introduction to Bles-Wold.

Hennie Bos described how the company began – after many years of experience running a dairy farm in Holland, he and Tinie moved to Alberta and started a dairy farm in 1994 with 60 Holsteins. In 1996, Tinie started making yogurt, and slowly, business grew – they now have 250 cows. Their products are currently stocked in 120 stores in Alberta, and most recently, two stores in Vancouver began carrying their wares.

Bles Wold

Hennie talks to the group

It was most interesting to hear Hennie explain that yogurt is quota-based system in Alberta, which only produces up to 0.5% of the demand (rights to produce more can be purchased from other farmers). The other part of their business is producing milk, which is sold to Saputo.

We then switched with the other group, and Tinie talked about the yogurt-making process on the lower level of the barn. She said she was first prompted to make yogurt for her daughter, who was diagnosed with diabetes as a teenager, and had to avoid commercially-produced yogurt that contained artificial sweeteners. Using her brother’s recipe, she eventually started making yogurt for family and friends as well, and they suggested that it might be a viable business.

Bles-Wold yogurt was first sold at farmers’ markets, where Tinie appreciated the feedback from customers. She found that Canadians preferred a much thicker yogurt than the Dutch, and liked being able to choose from a variety of flavours.

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Menu (plain is by far the most popular, followed by French vanilla, then blueberry)

She pointed to the machine behind her where the yogurt is made: it all starts with 3.5% butter fat milk. Skim milk powder is added for calcium and milk solids, then the mixture is transferred to the double-walled machine to be pasteurized, then separated.  Cultures (from Denmark) are added, then allowed to grow for fifteen hours. The last step is integrating fruit jelly mixes (containing no artificial sweeteners or stabilizers from a company in Vancouver) to produce flavoured yogurt. The amount of yogurt they produce every week varies somewhat (depending on market need), but that week, they would be making 3000L of yogurt.

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Where the yogurt is made

Tinie said she would be going to Europe in October to learn more about drinkable yogurt, which many of her customers have asked about. She said she had played around with various recipes, but hadn’t yet found one that worked.

Next, we moved on to the barns – one contained the calves (one just a day old!), and another, the 250 Holsteins (and one bull!). Everyone seemed to be just as delighted to see the young cows as we were, and even better, Hennie and Tinie had set out samples of their yogurt on the table for everyone.

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Pet me!

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Mack with a container of Bles Wold yogurt

The large barn that held the adult Holsteins was a sight to see (and smell, I suppose, but by that time, we had acclimatized somewhat). Though the cows typically have access to pasture, because they were expanding the barn this year, the cows had to remain indoors during this process – they will be back outside in the fenced pasture next year.

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I am such a tourist

The notable features of this barn were the mechanized helpers inside – one that swept the hay back towards the cows as they nosed through it – and another behind them that we joked was a Roomba for fecal matter – a motorized circular machine that pushed manure down into the slats below.

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Feed sweeper (we didn’t get a photo of the Roomba, unfortunately!)

Hennie was also very proud to show off the milking machine, where two cows could be automatically milked, a process that usually takes between 5-10 minutes. Here is a link to a video if you’re interested in seeing how it works – a cow steps in, a brush simultaneously cleans the teets and stimulates them, sensors pinpoint the udders, and the machine starts to collect the milk. It really was a sight to see.

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The magical milking machine

Valerie really had timed everything quite well – we never felt rushed at any part during the day. We all had our fill of the milking machine, Holsteins, and of course, yogurt – and got on the bus for the journey to our last destination that day, dinner at Eco Cafe.

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Leaving the barn

I had heard a lot about Eco Cafe, and their pride in sourcing local ingredients (including products from Greens, Eggs and Ham). Valerie had arranged a pre-fixe meal for the group, which was included in the price of the tour.

Located at Pigeon Lake in a small strip mall, Eco Cafe was much smaller than I had anticipated (our group took over the restaurant!). But what it lacked in size it made up for in charm, with lots of natural light, warm paint colours and friendly staff.

ECOcafe

Eco Cafe

We started off with a plate of smoked prairie trout, served with cold pressed canola oil Mousseline in a corn and sweet pepper crepe, with greens and candied beets in a yogurt maple dressing. Though the dish was pleasant enough, it wasn’t memorable though I did like the dressing.

ECOcafe

Smoked prairie trout with greens and beets

The entree was delicious, however – fall comfort on a plate. The bison short rib ragout was served over goat cheese mashed potatoes with oven roasted root vegetables. Everyone around the table – Valerie, Vanja and Mack – loved this dish. The meat was unbelievably tender, and thankfully for Vanja and I, the goat cheese was subtle.

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Bison short rib ragout

ECOcafe

Photo op

Valerie had told us that homemade cookies were waiting for us for the trip home, so we opted not to order dessert. Instead, we took the opportunity to stretch our legs before the trip home.

ECOcafe

I always make a beeline for gazebos

The promised cookies were indeed worth the wait: the chocolate cherry hazelnut and breakfast cookies were a great way to end the day.

Cookies!

Breakfast cookies

More napping on the bus ride back, and before we knew it, we were in Edmonton again. Thanks again to Valerie (and Vanja) for all of your work in planning the trip!