- Starbucks introduced their “Skinny Lattes” this week, made with skim milk and sugar free syrup. When Second Cup added the word “skinny” to their menu, I wasn’t impressed, and the same applies to Starbucks – what is wrong with ordering a custom latte the old fashioned way? Moreover, they have added a “How nutritious is your latte?” quiz onto their website’s front page. As if anyone ordering such a coffee is looking to boost their daily intake of vitamins with a hit of caffiene.
- Christopher Thrall is leaving his cushy position as the resident restaurant critic at Vue Weekly. In his last piece, he cites both dinner at PiccoLino and brunch at Bacon as some of his best meals in the city, period. I’m now interested in trying both.
- There’s an interesting read over at Zagat: a round-up of quotations from restauranteurs and chefs about what they want to see more – and less – of in 2008. To Roland Passot, who dislikes the trend of blogging from non-food professionals, I say – no restaurant will ever please every diner, but to shy away from the opinion of the “common man” demonstrates a lack of respect for the everyday customer and an unwillingness to hear criticism from anyone who he may judge to be an untrained gourmand. I have lost any interest I may have had in visiting his establishment.
- I’ve been swept up in the fervor of the American primaries. It almost makes me want to run out and buy Season 7 of The West Wing in order to relive fictional election madness.
- The program for this year’s International Week at the University of Alberta is up. Notably, Jeffrey Sachs, author of The End of Poverty, will be speaking on January 31st. See you there!
- The amount of anticipation for Catalyst’s remount of Frankenstein next month is just incredible. Tickets are selling fast; get to Tix on the Square soon if you’re planning to catch what some have been calling the best locally-produced show ever.
- It’s now the end of the first week of January, and there still hasn’t been any word from Teatro la Quindicina about their new season. I’m worried.
Author: Sharon Yeo
A Little Slice of Europe: Bistro Praha
A few friends and I met up at Bistro Praha (10168 100A Street) for a late afternoon dinner on Saturday. I hadn’t been back to the restaurant in some years, though I had been a frequent patron there in my late high school and early university days. The Rice Howard Way strip hosts a number of independent, ethnic eateries, including La Table de Renoir (French), Co Co Di (Lebanese), It’s All Greek to Me (what else but Greek), and the Eastern European fare of Bistro Praha.
Small but cozy, Bistro Praha always seems to have a few groups of regulars in addition to more curious diners. With a prominent bar and counter along one side and furniture that could have been pulled from an old family pub, the dining room is comfortable and feels familiar somehow. Lighting is dim, but conducive, it seems, to the camaraderie of more boisterous customers, but protective also of the intimate conversations taking place at the tables for two.
I wish I could provide more detail about the menu items, but truth be told, I’ve always ordered the same entree – the Wiener Schnitzel “Cordon Bleu” (a slice of veal, edam cheese and ham breaded then fried). Served with green and potato salads, the meal is consistently satisfying. I decided to order the full plate, though when it arrived, I realized that in the past, I had only asked for the half order – the schnitzel was huge! Still, I managed to eat every crispy and tasty bite – a microwaved portion of leftovers really wouldn’t have done the dish justice.
Stuffed, I wasn’t able to order dessert, but the rest of the girls did. Janice said Bistro Praha’s crepes were better than those served at The Creperie.
It was a nice meal overall – good food, attentive service, and not a bad place to catch up with friends. If you’re in the area, give Bistro Praha a try!



Delicious and Divine: Violino
After reading a few positive reviews about Violino (10133 125 Street), a new-ish restaurant in the High Street area, I suggested that Annie and I give it a try on Friday night.
Located in what appears to be a renovated house, we were greeted upon arrival by a host who took our coats (after New York, I am terrified by coat checks). He led us to the second floor dining area, and at that time, we were only the second party in the restaurant (while it was never full, more patrons arrived over the course of the evening).
Annie and I both loved the decor – red tapestries, cream seat covers, and the nicest bathroom either of us had seen in a long time (I’m a sucker for those bowl-shaped sinks that sit atop counters). My only nitpick was the prevalence of music-themed art throughout the restaurant; two or three pieces would have been subtle, but we seemed to encounter another sculpture every time we turned around.
Wanting to leave room for dessert, we bypassed the appetizers and denser entrees, opting instead for the Risotto con Funghi (risotto and wild mushroom melange, parmesan cheese, mixed herbs and laced with truffle oil). I am pleased to say that our server was great under the circumstances; she was assigned the entire second level, and was swamped, but did her best to provide attentive and timely service.
Our food arrived in a positively aromatic cloud and our server confirmed that we were noticing the truffle oil. In short, the risotto was divine. Rich and savoury, but not overly salty, the rice was a creamy bit of heaven.
To end our meal, we each ordered the Espresso Tiramisu and an accompanying cup of tea. Beautifully presented, with an artfully placed wafer and a single raspberry, the cake did not taste heavy, unlike versions at other Italian restaurants. The marscapone cheese blended wonderfully with the espresso-soaked biscuits, and I found the chocolate syrup garnish a nice sweet touch.
While not inexpensive, our indulgence at Violino was well worth it.

Restaurant Exterior
Annie and her Risotto
Espresso Tiramisu
Who’s in goal?!
Checking the score for the Canada-U.S. World Juniors semifinal yesterday, it was clear that the TSN live scoreboard wasn’t functioning properly. But take a look at who was listed as “Canada’s Starting Goalie”:

Listing Marc-Andre Fleury, who committed the game-losing gaffe in 2004 against the States, seemed like a bad omen.
But as the team just won against Sweden (in overtime, after giving up a 2-0 lead after two periods), it turned out to be just an off mistake. Congrats to the 2008 champions!
2007: A Year of Culinary Highlights
2007 was a great year. For food, that is.
I was fortunae enough to travel to Europe this summer, and to New York in December. At home in Edmonton, I sampled the fare at several new restaurants (or at least, “new” to me), and discovered some now-favorites.
In no particular order, here are a few of my culinary highlights from the past year.
-
Eating the best pizza of my life first at Vancouver’s Bridges, then in a small sidestreet restaurant in Florence.

- (With Mack’s help) Throwing my first ever dinner party!
- Many a good meal at my beloved Blue Plate Diner.
- The discovery of a stellar diner in Calgary, a wonderful lunch spot in downtown Edmonton, a historic house for more than just tea, a comfortable greasy spoon, and a chic cafe for fab pizza and panini sandwiches.
- Exhausting my cupcake phase: first in Calgary; then in Vancouver; Edmonton; and finally New York (and of course, I made my own too).
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Experiencing the gold standard for eating out at Becco in New York, which balanced the line between fine dining and comfort.

Asiago, Parmesan and Mozzerella Pizza from Bridges

Navona Notte from a restaurant with that namesake

Panna Cotta amidst a candlelit table

Comfort food at its best – the Herbed Meatloaf from Blue Plate Diner

Frittata from Diner Deluxe

Chicken Cordon Bleu from Shine Bistro

Cranberry Brie Sandwich from Arbor Restaurant in Rutherford House
Poutine from Route 99 Diner
Vegetarian Panini Sandwich from Leva Capuccino Bar

From Calgary’s Buttercream Bakeshoppe
From Calgary’s Crave
From Vancouver’s Cupcakes
From Edmonton’s Whimsical Cupcakes
From New York’s Magnolia Bakery
An Ina Garten recipe for Chocolate Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Icing
Outside Becco
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An invitation to participate in a Market Fresh Cooking Class with Judy Schultz and Gail Hall, which started to get me thinking about seasonal cooking and utilizing farmer’s markets.

With my fellow Journal winners, Gail Hall, and Judy Schultz
I can’t wait to see what’s in store for 2008!
The Cooking Chronicles: New Year’s Eve Shindig
Jane e-mailed me from Italy in November, asking if I would consider co-hosting a New Year’s party with her. As if I hesitated before saying yes to an opportunity to entertain and experiment with new recipes.
As we were both in recovery from illness and/or vacation hangover, it wasn’t until a few days before the 31st that we brainstormed potential hors dourves we wanted to serve our guests. A few e-mails and one discussion later, we had it down to five plates each, plus a beverage to have ready for Monday.
As I was scheduled to work a half day that morning, I made sure to choose recipes that would allow for advanced preparation. Of course, I didn’t anticipate that prior to launching into a cooking extravaganza on Sunday night, that I would first have to help my family put together a feast for my sister and her 20 merry friends in celebration of her birthday.
After dinner, I got started. Donna Hay’s 3 Cheese Puffs (made from thawed puff pastry sheets) probably had a dash too much oregano, but were assembled quite quickly, and were ready to be baked the next day. After making a sour cream pound cake from scratch, I diced about half of it for Individual Raspberry Trifle Parfaits (using disposable wine glasses found at Dollarama), which would be garnished with chocolate curls at the party. Giada’s Stuffed Mushrooms were next, modified using suggestions from others who had tried the recipe (adding chopped mushroom stems and cutting down on the amount of breadcrumbs used to reduce dryness), and placed in an oiled glass baking dish which would be put directly into the oven in the evening. Lastly, with my Mum’s help, I duplicated the Barbecue Duck Salad Rolls I had made a few weeks earlier for a potluck at work (thinking that a cold appetizer would be the best idea for a party where guests would be drifting in over the course of five hours). A colourful vegetable platter and dip was my last sustenance-offering. I also had a Ricardo cocktail in mind, a Pink Grapefruit-Flavoured Wine, but was to be infused for just a few hours, so I packed up my grapefruit and bottle of White Zinfandel to be prepared the next day.
I got to Jane’s place that evening at about a quarter to six, but given that our friends have a penchant for being fashionably late, we had more than enough time to heat and dress our food.
In the end, our guests were quite impressed with the spread. Jane’s dips and pita chips were a hit (I particularly liked the White Bean and Sun Dried Tomato), as were her meatballs (she also made Focaccia bread, green onion cakes, and brownies). Most people liked my cheese puffs and stuffed mushrooms (the latter were a bit dry in my opinion, and a touch too garlicky). As for the trifles, they were all right, though the thawed raspberries ended up tasting sour, and in hindsight, I should have used frozen blueberries instead. Out of all the dishes, I’d actually be most likely to make the cocktail again; inexpensive and easy to drink, it would make a great dessert “wine” to end off a meal.
After the food and some requisite Cranium, we headed to Churchill Square to watch the fireworks. Having been born and raised in Edmonton, it would be surprising to most to know that this was my first time catching them live on the Square. The music accompaniment was a bit wonky, but the fireworks themselves were very nice indeed, and lasted 13 minutes, as promised.
Though it was like pulling teeth for some (you know who you are), we had every guest write down either a resolution or a hope for 2008 on a small card, and their mailing address in a corresponding envelope, which was then sealed. These little letters will then be sent out in about 6 months’ time, to serve as written benchmarks or reminders (I can’t take credit for the idea – I stole it from Real Simple Celebrations).
Thanks again to Jane for allowing us to use your new apartment!

The chefs
The spread
Happy New Year, everyone!
Food Notes
- Judy Schultz is retiring! After 26 years, she is leaving the Journal. We’ll miss you, Judy!
- La Spiga is no more. Violino, another Italian eatery, has replaced it. Judging by a positive review from the Zenari clan, it’s a good bet for traditional food.
- The next time I return to Manhattan, I’ll be sure to time it around a Restaurant Week. The listing of participants for the January event is up.
- There was an interesting article in the Globe last week about the movement to “reclaim” but also to experiment with Indian food. It talks about an up and coming chef, based in the UK, who has banished the word “curry” from his menu.
- Food trends for 2008 (though perhaps not really worth mentioning in a food climate as slow as Edmonton’s): gastropubs, comfort food/one-item restaurants (like S’MAC), and upscale frozen desserts.
- Blogging about New York took a lot out of me, so instead of a full restaurant review, I’m copping out and just writing a few sentences about my latest experience at Manor Cafe. I had dinner there with a few girlfriends there last week, and was less than impressed. This is the second time where upon entering the restaurant, I was left waiting in the lobby for someone, anyone, to greet me. Secondly, our server opened up the evening with humor, referencing the nearly-empty dining area on the main floor (“As you can see, we’re so busy”), but failed to keep up with the implied promise of good service. Andrea never did get her water glass refilled, and resorted to drinking everyone else’s water. Our supply of hot water for tea also needed continued requests to be replenished. The food was nothing to write home about, though it was my choice to order the seemingly out of place Nasi Goreng dish. The rice itself was pretty bland, but I did enjoy the accompaniments provided (the peanut sauce in particular was quite tasty). Operated by the same couple who own Urban Diner (where I’ve always had a positive experience), I’m surprised at how inconsistent Manor Cafe has been.
Culinary Q & A with Andrea
Occupation: Professional student. Technically, I’m in grade 19.
What did you eat today?
I woke up at 1pm and went to Denny’s for breakfast/lunch. I had the Heartland Scramble:
Two eggs scrambled with chopped bacon, country-fried potatoes, green peppers and onions, and topped with Cheddar cheese. Served with two strips of bacon, two sausage links, hash browns and three fluffy buttermilk pancakes.
Instead of the pancakes, I substituted it with French toast.
I also had some mandarin oranges to snack on.
What do you never eat?
Never say never! I mean, I say now that I’ll won’t eat bugs and rats. But what if I was starving on a desert island? I think I’d have no qualms hunting down and devouring anything remotely edible. Better them than me.
I guess to answer your question: it’s not that I’ll never eat it but I don’t enjoy the taste of cilantro, pineapples, olives, pickles, vinegar, lobster/crab, shark fin, tofu, peanut butter (peanuts alone, I like), cooked citrus fruits (raw is fine), capers, and watercress.
Oh, and I don’t really like chocolate either. Weird, I know.
What is your personal specialty?
Everyone seems to like my chocolate chip oatmeal cookies. I have so many requests for the recipe but I refuse to divulge the secret. You’ll never find it in any books or the internet since I made it up.
My mini pecan pies are pretty good too, but an incredible hassle to make. I’d like to think I’m above average in the baked goods department.
What is your favorite kitchen item?
Sharp knives. For stabbing.
World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.
Appetizer: Deep-fried breaded fresh calimari with tzatziki sauce for dipping, and a lemon wedge for squeezing. An important thing to note is that I want the calimari to breading ratio to be at least 3:1 in terms of volume.
Entree: It’s a tough choice but I think I’d choose a gyro over pho. This gyro MUST come from the Greek island of Santorini at a certain restaurant who’s name escapes me.
Since that probably won’t make me full, I’d also like a prime rib dinner made by my dad, served with Russian Blue Duchesse potatoes and garden fresh vegetables (and I mean GARDEN FRESH).
Dessert: I’m pretty simple in this department — home-made apple crumble a la mode. The ice cream must be vanilla bean. I HAVE to be able to see those little black flecks.
Beverage: A nice glass of blackberry wine.
Snack: Krispy Kreme doughnuts and Haribo gummie bears.
Where do you eat out most frequently?
Hmmm…probably Charles Smart Donair. Jumbo Dim Sum comes at a close second.
What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?
Oooh. This is a tough question. In order to get a green-light from me, there has to be a high quality-to-price ratio and service has to be decent. You know me, I like having my water glass filled frequently and without my asking. Also, I’m not sure if my choices are biased from my meal-mates. I mean, no one would like eating in the best place in the world with their enemy.
In any case, here they are in no particular order:
Cafe Mosaic
Pad Thai
Charles Smart Donair
Jumbo Dim Sum
New Asian Village
Pagolac
Marble Slab (not really a restaurant, but ice cream is still something you eat!) Garage Burgers
Original Joe’s
Pho Tau Bay
If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?
Gyros from Greece; pho from Vietnam; pizza and gelato from Italy; schnitzel and beer from Germany; roast beef dinner from UK (I don’t really like Yorkshire pudding, but I had the best pudding there); all sorts of fantastic pastries from France; egg custard tarts from HK; jerky from Vancouver; naan bread from India; and last of all, huckleberry-blackberry pie a la mode from Loula’s Cafe in Whitefish, Montana.
New York City: Day 7
After leaving our luggage with the Pod Hotel staff, we walked to Bar Americain, one of Bobby Flay’s three New York restaurants. Before Becco, before S’MAC, before any of the places I researched when it was decided that we were coming to New York, I knew I wanted to have brunch “with” Bobby Flay. In particular, I wanted to have a biscuit at one of his establishments – those of you who have seen him make one on Iron Chef America will know why.
We had some time to kill before our 11:30am reservation, so we loitered near Times Square for a while.

“Pass the Cheer,” I say
Mack disagrees




Unfortunately, we found that the service wasn’t as attentive as what we had received at either Becco and Gramercy Tavern. Mack also wasn’t floored at the fact that his orange juice was priced at $4.50 per glass (but then again, we did find out that juice in New York was expensive, period).
The food – Mack’s omelette was essentially a baked egg dish with a fancy name, while mine was presented exactly as advertised. The biscuit was the best thing on the plate – crispy on the outside and soft and warm on the inside. The gravy was rich, and not a bad garnish on the creamy eggs, but I could have done without the meats. The ham was much too salty, and the sausage patties were tough and chewy, a result of being overcooked.


We took the “scenic route” back to our hotel – partly because we had some time but also partly because we didn’t want to leave.



In documenting my trip to New York, I have had time to think about not only what we were able to see, but to take note of what we didn’t. This exercise has brought me to the realization that we left so much untouched that I can’t quite say that we did the city justice (if one assumes that a tourist can ever really “know” a city well enough to make adequate judgments). In that regard, I see the potential of so much more of the city to discover that a return trip is not only desired, but necessary.
E.B. White, in an essay titled “Here is New York”, writes, “New York is nothing like Paris; it is nothing like London; and it is not Spokane multiplied by sixty, or Detroit multiplied by four. It is by all odds the loftiest of cities.” I have no other words.
New York City: Day 6
Our last full day in New York began with our earliest wake up call, and a journey to the Lower East Side. We had to wander a bit first, through what had to be the very (seedy) edge of Chinatown, to finally reach the place I had in mind for breakfast: Clinton Street Baking Company, renowned for their pancakes.






My plate was nicely garnished with additional blueberries, to remind me of the fruit sandwiched in between my stack of pancakes. As for how they tasted, I am happy to report that Clinton Street deserves every bit of praise garnered for its pancakes – moist, fluffy, with just a hint of sweetness, they went well with the tart blueberries. The accompanying maple butter was a unique accent, but I actually would have preferred plain old maple syrup. Mack thoroughly enjoyed his omelette, which was served with hash browns, a side of toast and (very good) raspberry preserve.



We spent the next few hours on Fifth Avenue, popping into a Lindt store (where there was absolutely no room to move around), Crate and Barrel (it’s a really good thing we don’t have this chain in Edmonton, otherwise, the amount of useless kitchen accessories I’d accumulate would be ridiculous), and of course, Tiffany’s (they have 5 or 6 floors, and an “express” elevator to boot).
At Build-A-Bear, we joined a very long line so Mack could build a Friendosaur for his Mum. The whole idea of creating your own stuffed animal is so ingenious and so lucrative that while I wouldn’t spend the money, I can see why many, many people do.




The Trump-operated Wollman Rink, featured in Serendipity, was beautiful. Situated in a valley of sorts, surrounded by aged trees and the majesty of gently lit skyscrapers, it epitomized the romance of New York City – an opportunity to appreciate nature (however man made) against the backdrop of bustle, structure and noise.

In this case, my fear of skating caused that universal pit-in-your-stomach feeling, which only intensified as we waited for the Zamboni to finish its rounds. There were no cameras allowed on the ice (though you couldn’t count the number of people defying that rule), so there isn’t much proof of my eventual ability to “skate”, but I did it, with the help of Mack’s triple cocktail of encouragement, positive feedback, and distraction tactics.




That said – the service and food were excellent. Mack’s Bacon-wrapped Trout was a great combination of savoury and supple, while my Stuffed Meatball was perfectly cooked – pink and oozing with velvety fontina. For dessert, we ordered the Chocolate Hazelnut Banana Tart and Earl Grey Creme Caramel. Mack’s tart was the clear winner here, though the garnish of a fried pastry on my Creme Caramel (the name of which escapes me even today), reminded me of the ones my Mum used to make when I was young (realized in a moment not too far removed from that experienced by the food critic in Ratatouille).
Comfortably full, we returned to the hotel to pack, and (sob) prepare for the trip home.