A Great Escape: Padmanadi

My officemates and I are very fortunate to work in Central McDougall, which grants us easy access to Somali, Eritrean, Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine and well, fast food, all within a few blocks of our door (and that doesn’t even include the assortment that is Chinatown!).

Sometimes though, what we crave in a restaurant isn’t necessarily the food, but the atmosphere. And there doesn’t seem to be a better office escape than Padmanadi.

Though I was first introduced to the vegetarian and vegan sensibilities of the restaurant at their original 97 Street location, I have to say I didn’t fall in love until I had a meal in the bright, calming interior of their new digs on 101 Street (it also happens to be a five minute walk away from our office).

I think the natural light helps, as do their neutral wall colours and appealingly modern furnishings (check out those funky chairs!). But perhaps what is most reassuring is how personal the room feels – the walls of taped snapshots of regular customers at the first location has been replaced by framed professional photographs. Even cooler, some of the regulars even have personalized, carved reservation placards! Padmanadi ultimately feels more like a community than a restaurant (similar in many ways to Elm Café and Duchess) – and there’s something wonderful about that feeling of being a part of something bigger than the physical walls.

The menu is a vegetarian one, leaning heavily on the use of soy and gluten-based meat substitutes (their brunch, Ellen tells me, is particularly good). Though I still mourn the termination of their lunch specials, Ellen and I decided to give their combo meals a try at lunch just before the Christmas break – a “dinner for two” priced at a very reasonable $32.

I thoroughly enjoyed the soup, a very tasty hot and sour. The texture was surprisingly thick (as in, if it had time to cool, it probably would have become an aspic), but it worked.

Hot and sour soup

The spring rolls were, as usual, pretty good, especially considering they only contained vermicelli and cabbage – no meat.

Spring rolls

Two entrees accompanied two petite bowls of rice. The lo-han vegetable was unfortunately bland, but the curried mutton was fantastic – the creamy, coconut milk-based sauce could make many worldly ills disappear. The “mutton” had a well-simulated texture, chewy and very much like bean curd. My only nitpick was that the potatoes and cauliflower in the curry were still quite hard, and would have benefited from a longer stewing time.

Lo-han vegetable

Curried mutton

Dessert was individual servings of rice pudding, garnished with cinnamon and a slice of apple, but reminded me of cold congee more than I would have liked. It was probably the healthiest dessert I’ve had in some time however, though a heavier hand with the mango syrup would have been appreciated.

Rice pudding

Even if the food was a bit hit or miss this instance, I’ve been to Padmanadi enough times to know they can do better. See you again soon, neighbour!

Padmanadi
10740 101 Street
(780) 428 – 8899
Monday-Sunday: Lunch 11am-2pm, Dinner 4pm-10pm; vegan brunch Saturday/Sunday 10am-2pm

Chinatown Addition: Emperor’s Palace

Emperor’s Palace, the newest addition to Chinatown, mirrors Urban China in many ways. Clean and modern, they are both a part of a movement towards the kind of restaurants Vancouver (and Calgary, to some extent) already have down pat. We’re always looking for new dim sum places, so it made sense that my first two meals there were for just that: I checked out the restaurant once during the lunch rush on a weekday before Christmas with Dickson, and again a few weeks later for brunch with Mack and my family to celebrate Felicia’s birthday.

Interior

The restaurant is gorgeous, with bright yellow and red tones. The crystal chandeliers help lend the room a touch of elegance, though what really captured my attention was the stunning floor-to-ceiling glass wine case facing the dining room. As with Indian restaurants such as Origin India trying to encourage diners to pair wine (instead of the requisite beer) with their cuisine, perhaps Emperor’s Palace is trying to do the same with Chinese fare? (something that others are attempting elsewhere in the world.)

Wine case

The high-backed chairs were visually appealing, and comfortable to boot, but unfortunately, did take up a lot of space, which prevented carts from going between some tables. This wasn’t a problem when dining with my family, but at a small table with Dickson at the rear of the restaurant, two tables stood between us and the aisle. As a result, the verbal exchanges between us and the waitress were a bit comical – we were nearly shouting to be heard above the lunchtime din.

The only other notable occurrence with regards to service happened with my family – a server leaned into our table, and in Cantonese, offered us a plate of fried shrimp wontons – “a dish that white people like.”

Shrimp wontons

The food was a mixed bag on both occasions, with portion sizes far from generous. The shrimp dumplings were all right, but they had paper-thin skins; my preference is a thicker shell. The pork dumplings, another dim sum staple, were disappointing – too chewy. The BBQ pork buns were perfectly shaped and browned, but the bread was dry and unappealing.

Shrimp dumplings

Pork dumplings

BBQ pork buns

The temperature of the dishes also varied (albeit better at brunch than at lunch) – the rice wrap with BBQ pork, for example, was served to us lukewarm.

Rice wrap

But we were surprised by other dishes – the spring rolls, for example, contained no filler, only shrimp. Hot and crispy, the skin was decidedly light in colour, and not the deep brown characteristic of a bath of old oil. A dumpling with pork, peanuts and chives had great texture. Rolls made of dough and sticky rice were new to me, delightfully garnished with what we took to be greens and egg. I also thoroughly enjoyed their custard tarts – but then again, I’m a sucker for warm custard tarts!

More dumplings

Pretty rolls

Custard tarts

My sister and I both have a bit of a Chinese restaurant restroom fetish, but I’m sure I’m not alone in having a negative connotation of dive-bar restrooms in association with Chinese restaurants. Emperor’s Palace joins Urban China on the short list of nice washrooms, with lovely azure bowl sinks.

Women’s restroom

As a whole, though the décor is fabulous, the dim sum was only average. That said, flipping through their dinner menu (a huge, cardboard book), I think it would be worth a try, with options like squab and geoduck available.

Dinner menu

So go for the decor, but as far as dim sum is concerned, don’t expect to be blown away.

Emperor’s Palace
10638 100 Street
(780) 757-2288

Culinary Highlights: 2010 Edition

Something happened in 2010 – maybe it was the mortgage, maybe it was the market…okay fine, mostly it had to do with moving out of Casa del Yeo – but I cooked more in my life this year than I ever had in the past, and relished every minute of it!

We finally nailed homemade pizza this year!

My tendency to organize everything, it turns out, fits perfectly with meal planning, so besides getting great meals, I know I am reaping satisfaction from the start of the very process itself – bookmarking recipes, learning what is in season, developing shopping lists, and ensuring a speedy turnover of produce.

We cooked more seasonally this year, and weren’t afraid to buy unfamiliar produce – like pea tendrils

This is not to say I’ve given up eating out by any means (though I know the balance of our food budget shifted this year) – I still enjoy trying new restaurants, and revisiting old favourites, but there’s nothing like preparing and enjoying a home-cooked meal with a loved one at the end of the day.

Curried lentil soup – one of many soups I made this year

Anyway – thanks for bearing with me this year, as I continue to seek great eats in Edmonton – both outside our home and in our own kitchen!

Here are some of the other highlights for me in 2010:

The most exciting thing for Mack and I this year was buying our first condo. A well-designed kitchen was a deal breaker, and though it may not be very large, I love the kitchen!

The spread at a housewarming party for friends

It was important to both of us that the condo be located downtown; the fact that it happens to be right where the City Market is situated only made everything easier. It also enabled me to write a weekly update of the market this year.

Doesn’t the summer seem forever ago? (photo from week 5)

We were also able to get out to visit a few farms this year, including Riverbend Gardens and Bles Wold Dairy. I know it isn’t for everyone – but I do like seeing where my food comes from.

Janelle Herbert (and her two children) of Riverbend Gardens in their never-ending squash patch

With cows at the Bles Wold Dairy

There’s also nothing like farm-to-table meals, and in 2010, we had not one, but two such glorious meals at Madison’s Grill.

A duck and goose trio at a Farmers’ Market Dinner in January

Wine at the 2010 PMA International Wine Makers Dinner in April, where we learned the true brilliance that wine and food pairings can be

That wasn’t the end of sumptuous multicourse meals – I can’t forget the off-menu extravaganza courtesy of Chef Tony Le at Lux, or the Chef Judy Wu’s wonderful showcase at the Wild Tangerine.

Espresso shortrib with truffled bacon cream corn at Lux

Jasmine tea smoked duck breast at the Alberta Backstage Culinary Dinner

Not all of my favourites this year were necessarily fancy, however. I’m still dreaming about the hot dog sliders at Delux, and can’t wait to go back for the xiao long bao at Shanghai 456.

Made with Nathan’s Famous hot dogs!

Soup dumplings at Shanghai 456

Sometimes though, food tastes best after a long day’s work – it certainly felt like that when Maria and I were finally able to relax and have a bite at the Wild Boar and Beer BBQ we organized in August.

Maria and I

Another fun Slow Food Edmonton event this year was the first ever Grilled Cheese Olympics.

The People’s Choice winner, made with goat cheese, brie, prosciutto, sundried tomatoes, served with a tomato compote

I was fortunate enough to be asked to act as a judge myself – at Heritage Days in August, and at the MoCupcakes Challenge in November.

Mack loved this perk of being a judge – the keys to a golf cart!

Linda’s winning Stud Muffins

Mack and I did do some travelling this year – we visited San Francisco in September (I have yet to blog about it). It was my first time visiting a winery, and it’s a no brainer to say what was Mack’s favourite moment – meeting Chef Hubert Keller!

With our favourite Top Chef Master

Cheers!

I’m looking forward to what 2011 has in store for us already!

Epicurious in Edmonton: 2010 in Review

It’s become a bit of a tradition for me to look back on Edmonton’s food scene after the year has wrapped (read 2009 here and 2008 here).

I think one of the most notable food happenings in 2010 was the growth of the blogosphere. More than a dozen local food bloggers joined the fray this year, and though some of them haven’t stuck, restaurants and media alike really started to recognize the fact that some diners do gather information from online food writers. Menu launches like the one that took place in November at ZINC will likely be more commonplace in the future.

As a result, however, I think readers will have to be more vigilant about what they read. Besides comped meals, it is inevitable that bloggers, like journalists, will develop relationships with chefs and restaurateurs. Edmonton may not have the critical mass of food bloggers as other cities do (yet), but I foresee more discussions about food blogging ethics on the horizon in our online community.

Other notable trends and events:

Local chains are continuing to increase their foothold in the local dining scene, including a second Transcend, a second Delux, a third outpost of Culina (in the Muttart Conservatory), a fourth location of Oodle Noodle, and another Cafe de Ville in Sherwood Park.
Of course, there’s usually more public excitement for the establishments opened by international chains, which was the case for Melting Pot and IHOP.
A few Canadian chains also launched their Edmonton presence this year, including Kelowna-based Big City Cupcakes, and Vancouver-based Local Public Eatery. Coming early 2011: beloved Crave Cupcakes, of Calgary.
It seems like loose tea purveyors had a good year – Teaopia opened in Kingsway, and David’s Tea now has two locations in Edmonton, at West Edmonton Mall and Southgate. Tea Fusion just opened in November in City Centre Mall (though bubble tea seems to be their focus).
Something I’m excited about, and really hope blossoms in 2011: one-note restaurant Battista’s Calzones opened in October, and La Poutine, which offers, yes, only poutine, is set to open in January 2011.
There seems to be a hunger for upscale, quality, not-your-average-deli sandwiches, with MRKT, Press’d, and the neighbourhood darling, Elm Cafe, seeing success this year. In the same vein, I have to think banh mi (Vietnamese subs) have become mainstream in Edmonton, with Nhon Hoa opening up a spot on Whyte Avenue, and V Sandwiches and Far East Sandwiches occupying prime downtown real estate.
Wine bars really were all the rage in 2010. With the addition of Lit, Moriarty’s, d’Lish, and Somerville Wine and Cheese, there are now several options for those looking for a glass of vino and some nibbles. So many, in fact, that 4th and Vine now bills itself as the “original wine bar” in print ads.
Speaking of wine bars, after fashion shows took place at both Lit and The Common this year, perhaps we should expect further mingling of bars and fashion in 2011.
Urban China and the more recent Emperor’s Palace really give me hope that one day, Chinatown might return to its glory days. At the very least though, they have ushered in the modern, stylish Chinese restaurants more common in Vancouver and Calgary.
This year saw the advent of group-based discount services in Edmonton – Groupon was the first, but it has now been joined by others, including Living Social, TeamBuy and most recently, SwarmJam.
As the city grows, pockets of businesses like the one in southeast Edmonton with Dumplings and Real Deal Meats will likely be more common (hopefully with locally owned businesses!).
With the excitement around The Marc and La Persaud in 2010, I wonder if more French bistros are in the cards?
The Municipal Development Plan, which will help protect some local food sources, was passed in May, and the Capital City Downtown Plan, which mentions providing assistance to those wishing to grow food downtown, as well as a multi-purpose arts/city market space, was passed in July.
Also on the topic of sustainability, it’s great to see the post-secondary institutions offering opportunities for students to learn more about food security, among other topics – Common Ground at Grant MacEwan University in March, and Sustainability Awareness Week at the U of A in October.
Another farmers’ market popped up in South Edmonton Common in the summer, and another is being investigated for the Riverbend/Terwillegar communities.

Here’s to more great happenings in 2011!

A Day with the Birthday Boy!

Mack celebrated his birthday on Tuesday. He probably gets short-changed somewhat because it falls so close after Christmas, but he usually has the day off of work for the holidays, which means we can spend the day together.

Mack loves LEGO, so we had already made plans a few weeks ago to check out Wheels, Wings & Waves, a LEGO World of Transportation Exhibition (two years ago for his birthday, we took in the Art of the Brick exhibition, also at the Telus World of Science). The exhibition chronicles the history of transportation “on the ground, in the air and on the water, all as seen through the eyes and built by the hands of talented LEGO builders”, and runs until January 2, 2011.

Mack thought he was too big to fit inside the racecar

All of the models were pretty cool, but of course, we had a few favourites, including the Titanic and the Space Lab.

Titanic

Space Lab

But it was a model of the High Level Bridge and the LRT bridge, built by the Northern Alberta LEGO Users Group that really caught our eye in the main showroom. We loved the small details – the people on the trails, the cars on the bridge.

Too cool!

A small room at the back of the exhibit housed a model inspired by The Way We Move, the City’s Transportation Master Plan.

Edmonton, reimagined

In the middle of the room, there was a LEGO equivalent of “Where’s Waldo?”, complete with a working lighthouse and a moving train.

Look for the details

Mack couldn’t wait to get his hands on LEGO. After rummaging around the numerous bins available, he was able to find pieces to put together a car.

Mack hard at work

His masterpiece

Before the centre closed, we checked out a show at the Margaret Zeidler Star Theatre. The last time I watched a show under the domed theatre must have been back in elementary school; an educational film about the stars. On this day we watched The Celestial Railroad. Though the images were quite beautiful, the milky way dissolving into a field of blinking flowers and flying cranes, we really didn’t enjoy the story or the message.

After our visit, we went to Route 99 for dinner. Nothing hits the spot like food at our favourite greasy spoon!

Beer and poutine FTW!

Pizza!

For dessert, I made us Mark Bittman’s Brown Betty (isn’t that the most charming name for a dish?). I had a lot of leftover bread from the scalloped tomato dish, and the Brown Betty incorporates quite a bit of fruit, not a bad thing after indulging on more than enough cheese.

A Brown Betty is similar to a bread pudding, with layers of toasted bread (tossed in sugar) and fruit drizzled with a mixture of juice and butter and baked.

Brown Betty

Unfortunately, the name was better than the result – part of it probably had to do with my poor job of tossing the sugars with the bread, but I was hoping for something with a little more oomph – the sum wasn’t greater than the parts.

We ended the night playing with Mack’s new toy from Santa – his XBOX Kinect. Our favourite game so far is Joy Ride (who doesn’t love a good old racing game?). The coolest thing about the Kinect (besides the limited voice activation features) is the fact that the console takes photos of the players throughout the game.

Yes, our steering wheels are really that big

Happy birthday, Mack!

Solid Brunch: Blue Chair Cafe

The Saturday before Christmas, Mack and I had brunch with Grandma Male at the Blue Chair Cafe. I’d been meaning to try the restaurant for brunch for some time, after having a positive experience on one of their music nights earlier this year. We were hoping a musician would be lighting up the atmosphere during our meal, but it turns out live music only takes place on Sunday mornings.

Interior

Perhaps the lack of performers was linked to the empty restaurant when we walked in that Saturday, but truth be told, it was a pleasant change – the morning dash for tables at places like the High Level Diner or Urban Diner can be quite harrowing. Two other parties eventually joined us in the restaurant; maybe they had the same idea for a stress-free breakfast followed by a trip to the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market.

Love the bank of windows

With a dozen dishes on the brunch menu, including vegan and celiac-friendly options, we had a tough time deciding what to order. Mack eventually settled on the blueberry yogurt pancakes with maple alder-smoked bacon ($13.50), while Grandma Male chose the banana bread French toast ($13.50), and I opted for the basic benny ($13.50) with capicola ham and buckwheat sunflower bread.

My eggs benedict was fine, though I am probably not the best judge, given it isn’t a brunch dish I usually order – the eggs were poached well, the yolks still runny, and the bread was the hearty, grainy sort, my favourite. I also would have preferred crispy, home-style potatoes instead of the roasted baby potatoes. All of our dishes were served with a colourful side of fresh fruit, reminiscent of the New York Bagel Cafe.

Basic benny

Grandma Male thoroughly enjoyed her banana bread French toast (something you’d think would be more common – such a great twist on a classic). The brown sugar finish was a nice touch, and the serving was so large she had leftovers to take home!

Banana bread French toast

I had serious dish envy with Mack’s blueberry yogurt pancakes though. The pancakes were so light and fluffy, even more so than the usual buttermilk pancakes on restaurant menus. His serving was also quite large, but Mack managed to power through it, not a difficult task because the dish was accompanied by super-crispy bacon, his favourite.

Blueberry yogurt pancakes

I’d definitely return to Blue Chair Cafe in the future. Service was friendly and prompt, and the food was solid. Check it out if you haven’t already!

Blue Chair Cafe
9624 – 76 Avenue
(780) 989 – 2861
Monday – Sunday 10am-10pm

Culinary Q & A with Andrea

What did you eat today?

Gruel for breakfast 🙂 salmon w/sesame sauce for lunch and shepherd’s pie for dinner.

What do you never eat?

Blue Cheese!

What is your personal specialty?

I can make a mean pasta sauce.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Parmesan Cheese.

What is your weekday meal standby?

Fajita’s.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

My burr grinder, I couldn’t have a great cup of coffee without it.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

My moms turkey dinner with all the fixings, home made buns and cheesecake for dessert.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Teriyaki Corner.

Where’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Guru! It is in the west end, the best.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Smoken Bones Cookshack in Langford B.C and I would order the beef brisket Po’ Boy with collard greens on the side. Yum!

Check out Andrea’s blog, GourmAndrea.

Guests of Honour: Istanbul Restaurant

On the snowiest of nights last week, Vicki and I made our way to Istanbul Restaurant, the location of our volunteer appreciation dinner (we’re so fortunate to sit on a committee that chooses to highlight different ethnic cuisines every year – last year, it was Ethiopian).

I can’t say it was the easiest place to find (it would have been helpful if we had been told to look for the shining beacon of a Tim Horton’s sign along 82 Street), though our indirect route plagued with wrong turns was scenic – who knew Balwin had such a nice community league?

A sign just inside the door made us feel welcome the moment we stepped in, which read, “Once you enter our doors you are no longer a customer you are our guest of honour.” The warm ambiance – created from a combination of Christmas lights, neutral wall colours, and a hearth (albeit an electric one), was mirrored in the service, which was attentive and personal (each person, arriving separately, was immediately greeted at the table upon arrival).

Interior

We opted to order platters to share, which suited the group quite well, and enabled us to sample several types of their kebobs and included hummus, salad, rice, pita bread and a nice bonus – dessert.

The platter was a mixed bag – the beef was overdone, and was difficult to pry off its skewer, let alone enjoy. The chicken fared better, and seasoned well with a spicy finish, was the favourite. Vicki liked the salad, but we both thought the hummus was just okay (I much prefer the version at Tazza).

Istanbul mixed platter (for three)

The best part of the meal arrived near the end – dessert. We had the choice of either baklava or rice pudding. The latter won out, and based on the comments around the table, was a good choice. The top had been baked, resulting in a slightly browned “crust”, which gave way to a custard, thinner than I anticipated, but with just the right amount of sweetness. The grains of rice had settled at the bottom of the ramekin, which was nice as an extra layer of texture.

Rice pudding

Vicki and I both decided to try a cup of Turkish coffee. Made tableside, the coffee was poured into delightfully tiny porcelain teacups. The proportions threw me off – about 1/3 of it was actually drinkable (albeit strong) liquid, and the rest of the cup was filled with silt-y grounds. I wasn’t sure what to make of it, but I found out later that this preparation is traditional, and that the remaining grounds can be dumped out onto a saucer to be “read” like tea leaves.

Turkish coffee

I wasn’t blown away by the food, so I wouldn’t go out of my way to return. But if I find myself lost in the neighbourhood again on a snowy winter day, Istanbul might be that shining beacon for a weary traveler.

Istanbul Restaurant
12918 82 Street
(780) 478-8881
Monday-Saturday 11am-10pm, closed Sunday

A Shared Experience: Skinny Legs and Cowgirls

On a Monday night a few weeks ago:

Me: Do you want to go for dinner tomorrow night?
Mack: What’s the occasion?
Me: No occasion. We just haven’t been out for a while. [pause] Okay, you got me. I have a coupon that expires tomorrow.

So goes how occasion has been dictating our decisions to dine out lately, since we’ve been enjoying the simple pleasure of preparing meals at home.

But after receiving a $25 coupon from Book a Table (curiously, from the name, one would assume the website is similar to Open Table, but the group is actually comparable to Original Fare – an assembly of local restaurants that seek to benefit from collective advertising power), it was an offer too good to pass up.

Skinny Legs and Cowgirls edged out Guru by just a smidgen due to transit accessibility, and the remembering from my previous visit that their prices were on the high side. A coupon would help take the edge off.

In December 2009, the restaurant moved from its tiny storefront in River Valley Kinnaird to a larger building in Oliver. Funny that we were only taking the time to visit it now; we used to live just a block away.

Walking in, it was love at first sight. It’s probably one of my new favourite dining rooms in the city, intimate with dim lighting, chic with a pressed tin ceiling, but comforting with warm fall shades of orange and red. Seated next to the fireplace, a single rose on the table, it instantly felt like a date night.

Interior

The menu hadn’t changed much since my last visit, somewhat surprising given the length of time that has passed. That said, our server did inform us of a most attractive special of the day, which we ended up ordering. We added a Nova Scotia scallop ($25) dish – scallops are one of Mack’s absolute favourite things.

While waiting for our appetizer, we gushed over the warm(!) bread and soft(!) butter. We were dying to know if it was house-made, or if not, from which bakery it had come from. The server candidly admitted it was from Costco.

Given the price, I wasn’t sure how many scallops to expect, but the serving was much larger than I anticipated. The scallops were perfectly cooked, nicely browned and with that telltale spring still intact. In a creamy leek and bacon dressing (that would also be fantastic tossed with pasta), Mack was in absolute heaven.

Scallops in a leek and bacon dressing

There were only three other parties in the restaurant when we arrived, two of them who were towards the end of their meal. For that reason, it was curious why our food took so long to arrive – over twenty minutes for the appetizer, and another twenty for our entrée. Given the restaurant’s penchant for organic, hearty dishes, I know diners should be patient for well-prepared “slow food”, but it made me wonder how the kitchen would do with a full house.

Thankfully, our main made up for the wait. Everything at Skinny Legs is served family-style; it was great to be reminded how disarming it can be to share food from the same plate. It’s been a while since we’ve eaten anything family-style (individual plates and bowls are always dished out from the stove before reaching our dining table at home, and the restaurants we’ve visited recently aren’t communal in nature), so it was refreshing to enjoy a meal that seemed that much more personal.

Of course, it helped too that the braised lamb shank ($54) was lovingly prepared – meat falling off the bone tender, swathed in a rich jus. We loved the accompaniments just as much – roasted baby vegetables, sweet potato puree, and a risotto that rounded out the dish texturally. There more than enough to satisfy both of us, with a price point that was more than reasonable, given the quality (and quantity) of the food.

Braised lamb shank

I was still curious about their affiliation with Book a Table, given that for the philosophy behind Skinny Legs and Cowgirls, Original Fare seemed like a better fit. I asked our server about it after we paid for our meal, and though he answered my question (essentially, that Book a Table was cheaper), it seemed to us that he couldn’t get away fast enough. A shame – because throughout the meal, he was quite conversant; it tainted our experience ever so slightly to end on such a note.

Complimentary chocolate truffles

As a whole, however, I would recommend Skinny Legs and Cowgirls – this meal was certainly more memorable than my previous visit, and probably more closely aligned with the experiences that have helped them build a loyal clientele. Not only was it good value for our dollar, it ended up being a great excuse to get out on a Monday night – we’ll be back.

Skinny Legs and Cowgirls
12202 Jasper Avenue
(780) 423-4107

By the Bite: ZINC’s Fall Menu

It’s hard not to admire restaurants that take risks – especially if those risks challenge diners to take a chance on something out of the ordinary. ZINC’s fall menu is one such gamble – it offers an interesting twist on the recent trend of small plates.

Nearly three dozen people attended ZINC’s media launch dinner, held on November 1, 2010 (oh yes, I am that behind). Chef David Omar introduced the driving concept behind his new menu, generously illustrated by a sample of eighteen dishes, plated and served as they would be on any other night, to any other diner.

Chef Omar explained that he wanted to provide guests with the option of ordering food as one would order wine – either by the glass or by the bottle. So, frustrated with the idea of confronting a customer with multiple menus, he designed the Fall 2010 menu to allow for both “by the bite” and “by the plate” selection.

Mack and I were seated with Chris, Sarah, Marianne and Charles – I’m sure jokes about dining with food bloggers abound, but for such an experience, there are no better dining companions (especially when they are much more on top of things than I am, having written about it weeks ago).

It was an intense meal to be sure, and to tell you that I remember everything, even with my notes, would be a lie. The flip side, however, is that the elements that stood out on that brisk fall day still do, while other, less memorable courses have fallen away.

In the order that they were served:

Cucumber and Tomato Salad ($4/bite, $10/plate) – I loved the textural variants, from the cucumber to the tomato to the quinoa. It did alarm me a little when Chef Omar mentioned that quinoa was very “in” at the moment – as much as I love fads sometimes, I was hoping there was more to his inclusion of the grain. Still, it was a lovely dish that longs for an Indian summer.

Caesar Salad ($4/bite, $10/plate) – My favourite of the trio, if only because of the bacon bits: prosciutto that had been deep fried, then dried in the oven. More please.

Beet Salad ($4/bite, $10/plate) – Not being the biggest fan of beets, I would never order this, but bravo to Chef Omar to demonstrate the versatility of beets – as a sorbet, and as a chip.

Salmon Three Ways ($5/bite, $12/plate) – It was great to have Chef Omar introduce each course, particularly when they were preceded by a story or a rationale. With this dish, we got both: continuing to order his salmon from Fin’s, this dish was his way of opposing the movement towards GMO salmon; while the maple cured candy (which tasted like fish jerky, emphasis on the fish), was something Chef Omar snacked on during his honeymoon. Unfortunately, I didn’t really care for the plate, narratives or not.

Lobster Bisque ($4/shot, $10/bowl) – Playfully served in a small cup, I thought the bisque was well-prepared.

Pan Seared Scallop ($6/bite, $18/plate) – ZINC’s staunch regulars demanded this dish carry over from the summer menu, and so, it remains. It wasn’t difficult to see why; the scallop was cooked well, and the sweet potato and maple ginger puree was perfection. Purees are a resolute strength of the kitchen.

Beef ($9/bite, $38/plate) – I still can’t wrap my head around who would only want a smidgen of beef. Around the table, the slices of Spring Creek Ranch striploin (individually fired) were all well-done and dry. No amount of goat cheese butter or shiraz jus could have saved it.

Vegetables ($7/bite, $24/plate) – Orzo really isn’t ideal for risotto; it doesn’t soak up flavour as well as rice or barley. Although it was all right to eat (I am a fan of the crunchy microgreens and sundried tomatoes), it was a poor vegetarian option.

Chicken ($7/bite, $29/plate) – The chicken supreme saltimbocca was delicious – moist and particularly flavourful in its swath of red pepper butter, it definitely did not suffer the same fate at its Angus brother. The roll of naked papperdelle noodles seemed like an unnecessary afterthought, and as much as I enjoy asparagus, given Chef Omar’s mentions of seasonality, it seemed inconsistent.

Duck ($8/bite, $32/plate) – Memories of Wild Tangerine’s jasmine tea, wok-smoked duck danced on my tongue when Chef Omar described that his duck breast had been smoked in green tea. Unfortunately, the smoked flavour didn’t really come through. The accompaniments, however, helped make this one of the most interesting dishes – a delicate, vanilla-scented cherry tomato, and a pumpkin and potato puree that would have been fit for dessert. It’s worth noting that while Chef Omar does his best to source locally (and does feature some local proteins on his menu), he told us later that Greens, Eggs and Ham isn’t able to supply him with the consistent volumes that he needs, so only he is only able to serve their duck on occasion).

Braised Lentils ($4/bite, $12 plate) – With pork belly atop the lentils, I expected fireworks. But with a slice of belly with too much fat but not enough flavour, the lentils, turned in a red curry cream, ended up being the most exciting taste to be had.

Lamb ($9/bite, $38/plate) – One of Mack’s favourites, and unlike the steak, was perfectly cooked. Sadly for me, as our tablemates were noting down their love for the dish, I dropped my piece on the floor. Sigh.

Pork Tenderloin Medallion ($6/bite, $16/plate) – The pork was overcooked and chewy, again a victim of precise timing needed with such small portions. The Savoy cabbage was nice, but Chef Omar emphasized that he would use whatever cabbage was fresh.

Cannelloni ($6/bite, $14/plate) – Greens, Eggs and Ham duck confit made an appearance in this dish, hurrah! Mack and I differed on opinions here though – he absolutely loved it (the melted manchego cheese, from Paddy’s, and the mushrooms and leeks didn’t hurt either). The texture of the confit reminded me a little too much of pate, though I agreed that the flavour was amazing.

Bison ($9/bite, $40/plate) – The pan-seared tenderloin sung to me in this trio, the Saskatoon berry jus providing a pleasantly sweet finish.

Bison Carpaccio ($6/bite, $40/plate) – Some of the plates (bisque, scallop), seemed to be a more natural fit for the “by the bite” concept. The bison Carpaccio was another, as some might be uncertain about committing to an entire dish of unknown. The plate was elegant, but the paper-thin slices of meat were overpowered by the pink peppercorn. I would order it again; it was promising.

Spaghetti ($8/bite, $26/plate) – The alpaca meatball I had a few days later from ZINC’s station at the Chili Cookoff wasn’t dry, so I’d say that much like some of the other proteins, that the kitchen just had to work on the timing.

Salmon ($8/bite, $36/plate) – Why eat salmon when you can have an amazing roasted barley pilaf with kohlrabi and carrot instead? This accompaniment knocked my socks off, and made me wonder why it wasn’t the vegetarian option.

Dessert, to my mind, made the easiest transition to the tasting concept – how often have you wanted to order one of everything off of the dessert menu? In a city with a distinct lack of dessert bars, I hope someone steps up soon.

While Chef Omar couldn’t provide “by the bite” servings of his desserts, he did treat us to his banana bread pudding. Served warm, it was a lovely way to end the night.

Again, I’d like to commend Chef Omar for introducing this concept to Edmonton diners. Though some dishes worked better than others, I can imagine the menu is a work in progress. I would also guess that with time, the kitchen could perfect the preparation of the proteins.

Thanks to Chef Omar and the rest of the staff at ZINC for a memorable experience!

ZINC (inside the Art Gallery of Alberta)
2 Sir Winston Churchill Square
Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday 11am-2:30pm; Dinner: Tuesday-Wednesday 5-9pm, Thursday-Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Sunday 11am-2pm; closed Mondays

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