Not on Meatless Mondays: Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse

Over dinner at the Harvest Room in October, Mack and I had the opportunity to get to know Mandy and her boyfriend Ajit a little more – turns out, they love food as much as we do! We already knew Mandy’s brother Miles from working with him on What the Truck?! over the summer (they run The Lingnan together, with the rest of their family). So when Mandy suggested the lot of us should get together for dinner, we thought it was a great idea.

We proposed Pampa as a venue – it was new to nearly everyone, while my only experience was at lunch. At the time, I had thought the restaurant would be more conducive for the dinner hour, when patrons have the ability to linger and take in the food at their own pace. That night, with a cocktail in hand and good company at the table, Pampa did seem to have more opportunity shine after dark.

Interior

On a cool Tuesday night, our table was the first party to be seated that evening. This proved to be both an advantage and a disadvantage. On the upside: we were the first to access the salad bar that night, which meant we had our choice of the extensive selection of green, vegetable, pasta and grain salads and cold platters (some of the bowls were empty on my last visit). Notable for me this time was the balsamic honey reduction dressing.

Salad bar

Mack’s never happy about having to eat vegetables

Compli

mentary appetizers (the cassava fries were particularly delectable)

On the downside: the kitchen was clearly prepared to handle a much larger initial rush than they received that night. As a result, the severs descended, fast and furiously, on on our table with cuts approaching at such a rapid pace that all we could do was buckle down and eat. This explains the lack of meat photos to follow.

“Keep it coming” and “stop the pain”

On the other hand, with such quick succession of the eight or so options we had at our disposal that night, we were easily able to pick out which were our favourites. The house made pork sausage elicited rounds of approval (and calls for seconds), as did the bacon-wrapped chicken thigh. Both were so tender and cooked perfectly. I very much enjoyed the bottom round and its charcoal-tinged crust (it made me wish they had the salt-crusted picanha I liked so much on my last visit on rotation).

Bacon-wrapped chicken thigh

The group appreciated the parmesan pork, at its centre a moist medium rare, and the lamb, so juicy it literally left its mark on the table as it was being carved. The only type that didn’t go over well was the garlic steak – tough and hard to eat, it seemed as if the garlic was used to mask the poor quality of the cut. But for the most part, Pampa did honour meat in many incarnations with its preparation, technique, and flair.

We opted to try a few of the desserts – the manjar de coco didn’t quite meet Miles’ expectation of a crème caramel, while the passionfruit mousse wasn’t actually the star on its plate – the melt-in-your-mouth meringue took that prize.

Manjar de coco

Passionfruit mousse

Given the price of our dinner was upwards of $75 a person ($44.95 without drinks or dessert), we were a little disappointed with the service that night. Our server wasn’t subtle about pushing the liquor (reminding us numerous times about being able to cork and carry out bottles), at the expense of refilling water glasses. She also disappeared at various points that evening, including one long absence in between our plates having been cleared and wanting to order dessert. On the bright side, she did manage to scrounge up the lone plate of pineapple that was left in the restaurant. Mandy had heard from a friend that the pineapple at Pampa was great, but was told early on that evening that pineapple wasn’t available that day. Needless to say, Mandy left a happier customer (and, as she said, better able to digest dinner).

The elusive pineapple!

Before we left, we were very fortunate to receive a tour of the kitchen from owner Oscar Lopez (Mack and I were lucky to slip in alongside Miles). It was great to talk to him and get some background on Pampa. It was clear he is passionate about the rodizio concept, and pioneering such a restaurant in Edmonton.

Most fascinating to me were the grills – even standing five feet away, the heat was unbearable; I couldn’t imagine having to tend to the charcoal and wood, which reaches temperatures of 500 – 750F, over the busy dinner hour.

The grill (notice the intense sprinklers above)

We learned that the three tiers on the grill were used for different purposes – the skewers on the top level would be kept warm, the middle was used for slow-cooking the meats, and the lowest setting would cook things quickly. We asked Oscar about the segment on The Opener that showed the restaurant offering a seafood option – he said this was set up by the show for filming, and was never something he intended to continue with. Part of it had to do with expense, but given the heat emanating from the charcoal, seafood would cook much too quickly.

How do the skewers turn, you ask? Magic gears!

Oscar also showed us the heavy-duty air filter at the back of the house, which filters 6000 cubic feet per minute, necessary because of the continuous charcoal and wood burned in the kitchen. On a few occasions early in the restaurant’s history, a clogged filter meant the smoke drifted rather uncomfortably into the dining area.

What’s standing between charcoal and the dining room

While Pampa is usually busy over dinner, Oscar said that lunches have been slow. I had to wonder if a part of it had to do with the “buffet mentality” – that diners must feel like they ate their fill in order to deem that they received value for their dollar. Or, for some business persons, the idea of being interrupted every few minutes with a meat offering, stifling the flow of conversation, is a turn-off.

It’s hard to think that Pampa could be unsuccessful in beef-crazed Alberta. But from our own experience, it is a restaurant that for its price and promotion of gluttony, is very much relegated to special occasions and infrequent returns. Still, there is a place for it, and one that I hope more Edmontonians will discover. Thanks again to Miles for dinner – we hope to do it again some time!

A satisfied party

Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse
9929 – 109 Street
(780) 756-7030
Lunch: Mon – Fri 11:30am – 1:30pm; Dinner: Monday-Friday 5-10pm; Saturday 3-10pm; closed Sundays

Paninis in the ‘Park: Fresh Healthy Cafe

Grandma Male is always game to try new restaurants with us, so we knew she’d be up to catch up over dinner at Fresh Healthy Cafe, a new soup and sandwich joint in Sherwood Park.

I first heard about this international chain on City and Dale, in a post written up by Tracey Hill (who, with her weekly contributions about the happenings in the ‘Park, is helping to change perceptions about the town, bedroom community or not). At first glance, it seemed to be very similar to Edmonton’s Health Fare, with its focus on providing nourishing and balanced meals for time-crunched individuals. We were curious to see what the restaurant was like in person.

Interior

The name aside (it reads like it should be Fresh and Healthy Cafe), the strip mall storefront was bright and clean. The local artwork on the walls were a nice touch (Giselle Denis’ floral portraits would brighten up any space). I also appreciated the open kitchen; it is always reassuring when diners can see their food being prepared.

Artwork

The menu options were even fewer than Health Fare, limited to sandwiches, salads and soups. There were ten panini options (all priced at $7.49), all of which could be made into a wrap or turned into a salad. Mack and Grandma Male decided on the turkey bacon avocado, with turkey breast, turkey bacon, cheddar, avocado, lettuce, tomatoes, red onions and low-fat ranch dressing. I ordered the very similar turkey club, with turkey breast, smoked ham, turkey bacon, lettuce, tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and the same ranch dressing.

Turkey bacon avocado panini

There is no doubt that Fresh is generous with its ingredients – the sandwiches were just bursting. I liked that they had been lightly pressed, but given the filling amount and the runny consistency of the dressing, a thicker focaccia would have been ideal. But as a whole, we all enjoyed the sandwiches.

Turkey bacon club panini

Because Fresh had a smoothie menu longer than its food menu, we knew we’d have to try their drinks as well, with eighteen options (medium $4.79, large $5.99) to choose from, not including the freshly squeezed juice, juice blends, and optional fortifiers. We sampled the pomegranate punch (pomegranate-blueberry juice, non-fat frozen yogurt, blueberries, strawberries), Caribbean splash (passion-orange-guava juice, mango sorbet, mangos, strawberries) and strawberry banana supreme (strawberry juice, raspberry sorbet, strawberries, bananas). I thought the addition of frozen yogurt to a smoothie was inspired – it was a great thickener, with the side bonus of turning the drink into a dessert of sorts. Together with the paninis, we were content with the meal.

Smoothies

Although we had a pleasant experience at Fresh, we agreed that it was a bit out of the way for us to satisfy a sandwich craving. However, if we were in the area (or a resident of Sherwood Park looking for something new to try), we would return again.

Fresh Healthy Cafe
#82, 4005 Clover Bar Road, Sherwood Park
(780) 570-5950

Restaurant Relaunch: Harvest Room at the Hotel MacDonald

On October 17, 2011, the Harvest Room at the Hotel MacDonald reopened after a nine-month hiatus. The space had to be meticulously repaired after extensive water damage to the ceiling, but the closure also meant that Executive Chef Andrew Ihasz had ample time and space to revamp the menu and locate local producers to source certain items. Mack and I were fortunate enough to have been invited to a media dinner two weeks ago to help celebrate the relaunch.

Place setting

It was obvious that all of the staff were proud of their restaurant, but what surprised me the most was the serving length of the wait staff. A majority had worked at the hotel for over a decade; that kind of dedication and loyalty seems rare in the hospitality industry.

It’s always a privilege to be asked to attend such an event, especially because the chefs are usually on hand to introduce each of the dishes. I relish the opportunity to listen to chefs describe the genesis behind combining certain ingredients, or the inspiration behind a particular dish. Although Chef Ihasz did mention his affinity for crab (given his last Fairmont posting was in San Francisco), I found that the storytelling was lacking that night.

That said, the food was solid. Well-prepared, fit for the season, and items like lobster and crab notwithstanding, skewed towards local. We also appreciated that the producers’ names were highlighted on the menu.

The Sunworks Farm chicken & cognac parfait was not a dish I would have been likely to order on my own, but I was happy to have tried it – so smooth, each bite spread on the toasted brioche topped with the sweet berry chutney and crisp microgreens was perfect. This dish featured Mack’s favourite wine pairing, a Chateau de Sancerre.

Chicken & cognac parfait

I could see the Dungeness crab salad becoming a favourite on the menu – beautifully plated in a layered fashion showcasing the avocado, oven-roasted tomatoes and frisee, it was surprisingly light. Lemon was prominent (even with a bit of preserved peel on top) and I relished the variety of textures throughout.

Dungeness crab salad

I’m a sucker for dishes that serve an ingredient in more than one way, so I knew I would be biased towards the roasted Innisfail lamb rack. The lamb had been cooked to a succulent, tender rare, and the crispy lamb shank and basil cannelloni was a nice starchy counterpoint. Of note – the eggplant and mint tian was cooked well, worth mentioning given eggplant is a vegetable often overdone.

Lamb rack and crispy lamb shank and basil cannelloni

Mack’s Sunworks Farm chicken roulade was quite generous. As a whole, it’s always interesting to see the interpretation of the chicken main on the menu, given it is typically the “go-to” for fussy diners. Chef Ihasz’s version incorporated a moist sage stuffing, and an underbelly of lentils which Mack quite enjoyed.

Chicken roulade

Lobster ravioli (the third alternating entree)

I was keeping my fingers crossed that my alternating dessert would end up being the delice of chocolate, and my wish came true (it felt a little like getting to sample several desserts on the same plate). Funny enough, what I liked most on the plate was actually the peanut butter ice cream, creamy and full of flavour. If they sold it curbside, I’d line up! The chocolate coulant (a molten cake) was wonderfully consistent, albeit rich, and was my favourite of the chocolate trio which also included a mousse and brownie.

Delice of chocolate

Mack’s pot de crème of Fairmont Earl Grey tea and orange was comforting, though the star of his dessert was also an unlikely candidate – the accompanying lavender shortbread cookies.

Pot de crème

I do hope people rediscover the Harvest Room now that it is open for business again. It is an institution in Edmonton, and for good reason. Their attention to detail that night meant that nothing was overlooked; service was flawless. Thanks again to the staff of the Harvest Room and the Hotel MacDonald for their generosity and hospitality.

Harvest Room at the Fairmont Hotel MacDonald
10065 100 Street
780-424-5181

Meet Me in Mississippi: Blue Chair Cafe

Edmonton may be descending towards winter, but the temperature outdoors was far from everyone’s minds at the Blue Chair Cafe on Friday. For two nights, the restaurant was transformed into a juke joint, with blues artist Kat Danser at the helm (or as Kat put it, a “Saskatchewan bush party with a roof”). Mack, Jill and I had made reservations several weeks back; the Blue Chair had not only sold out both nights, but had enough people on the waiting list for a third show (Kat’s actually up for the New Artist of the Year with Canada’s Maple Blues Awards – you can be a part of the online vote here).

Kat Danser

The show was great – we had seen Kat at the Arden Theatre last year, but the intimacy of this venue better conveyed the spirit of and the imagery in her lyrics for me. Of course, it helped that we had front row seats!

A juke joint stage

The Blue Chair is also a noteworthy venue in itself – it’s nice when one doesn’t have to compromise good food and table service for live music, or vice versa. I had ordered off the regular menu last time, so with Jill’s encouragement, Mack and I both decided to try the specials on this occasion. It wasn’t a difficult decision, given the chef had put together some Mississippi-inspired dishes just for Kat’s two night engagement.

Mack’s spicy BBQ pork back ribs ($26) were fall-off-the-bone, with the chipotle BBQ sauce providing a nice balance between sweetness and heat. Though the kitchen had been generous with the meat portion, Mack was left wishing for more of the roasted sweet potatoes underneath.

Spicy BBQ pork back ribs (thanks to Jill’s flashlight app we actually have bright photos!)

Jill and I had both opted to have the Cajun blackened snapper ($26). We were surprised, however, when the snapper arrived without its promised blackened preparation. Although it tasted fine, we wanted to know what had happened, so asked our waitress if the kitchen had to deviate from the menu. The explanation? “The pan wasn’t hot enough.” Why did the kitchen still send it out? Thankfully, the jambalaya underneath, replete with shrimp, tasty sausage and perfectly cooked rice, somewhat made up for the poorly executed fish.

Cajun blackened snapper with jambalaya

Dessert was also better. Mack enjoyed his carrot cake ($9), though he could have done without the seeds inside. Jill and I split the chocolate pate ($10) – this, unlike the snapper, lived up to its menu description: “If Barry White’s voice was a dessert…”. Incredibly smooth, this decadent dish is easily one of the best sweet endings I’ve had to a meal in a while. The touch of pomegranate was the perfect finishing touch, helping to cut through some of the richness by adding a fruity burst to each bite.

Carrot cake

Chocolate pate

Mack and I had a great time at the Blue Chair – there’s no better way to kick off a weekend than good food, music and friends! If you’re interested – check out the Blue Chair’s live music and event calendar here.

Blue Chair Cafe
9624 – 76 Avenue
(780) 989 – 2861
Wednesday – Saturday 10am – 10pm, Sunday 10am – 8pm

Five Restaurants I’d Like to See Inside Edmonton’s New Downtown Arena

In all the talk about the arena – the financing, the design – I find that something has been lost. What about the food?!

Sure, I realize the deal still hasn’t been finalized (both the City and the Katz Group can still pull the plug at this point, to say nothing of the still missing $100 million), but given how the arena has been touted as a showpiece not only for downtown, but for Edmonton as a whole, we cannot overlook the food that hungry hockey fans and concert-goers will be served.

I’d like to say up front that I have no knowledge of the Katz Group’s food service plans for the arena; this post is merely a wish list of considerations. As well, although I recognize that if all goes well, restaurants and bars will spring up and flourish around the arena, I’d like to focus on the concessions inside the arena itself.

Citi Field (home of the New York Mets) opened earlier this year, and turned ballpark food on its head. Forget about hot dogs and peanuts – how about a burger from the veritable Manhattan summer staple Shake Shack? Or a lobster roll, crafted by none other than Dave Pasternack, one of New York’s best seafood chefs? Citi Field is by no means unique – it follows a trend of elevating concession offerings that has happened in ballparks all over America in the past few years.

But it’s not just ballparks that are reinventing stadium menus – hockey arenas are getting into the game as well. For example, Madison Square Garden’s Transformation will see several top chefs move in this December, including Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Andrew Carmellini.

I think it would be great to see a similar model for the concessions in our new arena – branded vendors that will elevate expectations of pre-game and game-time meals. While Edmonton may not have such high-profile chefs as they do in New York, I think it is important for the new arena to focus on local businesses instead of on chains. If the arena is supposed to be the jewel in the city’s crown, shouldn’t we embrace it as an opportunity to promote the best of what Edmonton has to offer? Raise awareness of what is uniquely ours?

Although some local restaurants would certainly have to work through issues of volume, as well as having to tweak menus to accommodate the quick-serve concession mantra, I am optimistic that it can be done! So – here are some restaurants that I’d love to see included in the arena, in one form or another:

Delux – one of Edmonton’s most prolific restaurant companies, Century Hospitality Group operates several different brands, including the upscale-casual lounge Hundred (frequented by many an Oiler), posh steakhouse Lux (of which Captain Canada Ryan Smyth is a part-owner), and family-friendly Delux. I think the Delux concept of creative but consistent takes on burgers and fries would be a perfect fit for the new arena, offering a twist on a game staple.
Famoso – this is a made-in-Edmonton success story. Dishing out Neapolitan-style pizzas, fired up in a 900 degree oven, franchises have been proliferating across Western Canada, with five branches set to open up in BC in 2012. Made to order with fresh ingredients, Famoso offers enough variety to satisfy even the pickiest patrons, but also puts together inventive combinations for more adventurous eaters.
Fat Franks – ubiquitous, this Edmonton institution can be found at each major street corner downtown and every festival in the city. But there’s a reason they’re swarmed wherever they go – their ‘dogs are top quality, consistently prepared and served fast. And, with their large condiment selection, diners can make a ‘dog their own! I’d love to see Fat Franks start offering more “limited edition” creations though, similar to their inspired Andy Dog this spring.
The Lingnan – at sixty two years and counting, The Lingnan is Edmonton’s oldest still-operating Chinese restaurant. It sits just northwest of the proposed arena site, with a marquee that recalls the glory days of Chinese food on the prairies. The Quons also run the wildly successful Chicken for Lunch in Scotia Place, with line-ups that stretch fifty deep by noon. Can you imagine getting your fill of Amy’s hot and dry chicken at the arena? Moreover, the family are already ambassadors of Edmonton, currently starring in The Quon Dynasty, their second reality series on television, which airs not only across Canada, but around the world.
Tres Carnales – given the drink of choice at the arena will remain, forever and always, beer, is there a more harmonious pairing than beer and tacos? I can see it now – a taco bar on the concourse! But with Tres Carnales in the kitchen, not only will the tacos be delicious, they will be authentic, too. And if this outlet were to capture even some of the spirit and gregarious nature of its Rice Howard Way location, fans will have a good time, regardless of what the score is.

What restaurants would you like to see set up shop in the new arena?

Culinary Q & A with Phil Wilson (aka Baconhound)

Occupation: Professional Gasfitter/ semi-professional man of leisure.

What did you eat today?

A couple slices of toast w/ peanut butter for breakfast (and a couple Doritos… don’t judge me). Cauliflower soup with a whole wheat roll for lunch (uh, and a couple Doritos… don’t judge me). Caramelized chicken w/ soya sauce and honey, steamed carrots, roasted beets, and roasted smashed potatoes cakes (and a few chocolate covered marshmallows… ah, go ahead and judge all you want).

What do you never eat?

Wallpaper paste. Gave it up when I was 4 years old. Tastes remarkably like Poi. Which I would never eat. Oh, and liver. Can’t even stand the smell of that stuff.

What is your personal specialty?

Not sure I have what you would call a specialty, but I make a mean braised beef, killer mashed potatoes with sweet potatoes and cream cheese, and a kick-ass homemade Bailey’s.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

My nose. I just can’t stay out of there. It’s where I keep my beer, and cheese. (which are always in my refrigerator also)

What is your weekday meal standby?

I’ve always got a couple balls of pizza dough in my freezer courtesy of my buddy Battista at Battista’s Calzone Company. Some cheese, maybe a few pine nuts, pesto, a bit of sausage if I’ve got it and pizza’s on the table in 20 minutes.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

I have 2 that I love. The first is a really good set of tongs. Sturdy and solid, they are like an old friend that never lets you down. The second? A great vegetable peeler. It makes a tedious chore much easier.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Easy. My mom’s Christmas Dinner. Partly because it would mean she was still with us to enjoy it, and partly because turkey, roast potatoes, sausage stuffing, and gravy are awesome. Hmm, might actually need to have a duo of gravy because my wife Robyn’s mom made a pretty heart stopping gravy too.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Over the last few months I’d say Drift food truck for sure. They’ve got it all in one tidy, teal package for the summer. Great food, great people, and you can enjoy it all outside. Although The Next Act Pub has beer…. Hmmm.

Where’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

I’m tempted to say somewhere at the airport, because that would mean I was on my way somewhere for a holiday, but we all know airport food is terrible. So I’m going to say it depends what I’m in the mood for. For fine dining I love the Red Ox Inn. For a delicious, quick dinner and a lively atmosphere I’d say Tres Carnales. But I also love Battistas, Niche, Famoso, Matahari… how could I pick just one?

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I have dreams about attending Memphis in May, the annual National BBQ competition in Tennessee. So much BBQ! And good BBQ is something we really don’t have here.

Keep up with Phil at his blog, or on Twitter.

Kitchen Takeover: Big City Sandwich

Even as the seasons are changing, enthusiasm for food trucks in Edmonton continues. Interestingly enough, the truck that is propelling that momentum into autumn isn’t really a truck at all!

Well, at least not yet. Chris Delaney, owner of Big City Sandwich, will be launching his truck in May 2012. Until then, to help generate some income (and excitement!), he will be taking over kitchens all over town so diners can start getting to know his food (it’s so great that restaurants are open to this concept – it sounds like the arrangement is that the establishment earns the liquor revenue while Chris takes home the food balance). Last month, Chris served a Cuban braised pork sandwich at The Bend Lounge. On Sunday, he was banging out eats at Packrat Louie – Mack and I had to check it out.

Packrat Louie (with small Big City Sandwich signs in the window)

We arrived just after 5pm to a half-full dining room. In hindsight, getting there early was the best decision we could have made; the lobby was soon buzzing with diners waiting for tables – I don’t think I’ve ever seen Packrat Louie so busy!

Instead of the usual silverware, linens and wine glasses, the place settings were made up of a disposable fork and napkin, a reminder of the casual nature of the meal we were about to have.

Place setting

On the menu that night: a smoked beef brisket sandwich with bacon jam ($8), although there was also a vegetarian option. Mack and I both upgraded to a combo ($12) so we were able to select two of the three available sides: Big City beans, slaw or fries (we chose the latter two).

Our orders arrived in biodegradable boxes. The sandwich was topped with a cheesy jalapeno popper which was so tasty (and perfect for someone like me who can’t handle heat). The brisket itself was wonderfully tender, and Mack and I both agreed that the smoky-sweet bacon jam helped elevate the sandwich. The fried onion straws were also a great crunchy addition. That said, the weak link for me was the bread – it was a little too big, and a touch dry.

Beef brisket sandwich

The kitchen was extremely generous with the serving sizes of the sides. The fries had been tossed with some seasoning, but as far as we were concerned, nothing else besides the chipotle mayo was needed. We’re not sure if it is Chris’s signature dipping sauce, but it could definitely become his equivalent of Drift’s house tomato sauce. Not surprisingly, I enjoyed the slaw more than Mack did – I loved the light but creamy dressing, and the unique inclusions of both bell peppers and cilantro in the mix.

A combo box

They were also offering a dessert – pumpkin ginger whoopie pies ($3) from Bluebird Cakes. Mack and I shared one, and found that the dominant flavour was definitely ginger. The cake itself had a good texture though, soft and doughy.

Pumpkin ginger whoopie pie

Based on the response that night, I can’t imagine the line-ups the truck will have when it debuts next year. But until then, according to Liane’s article, Big City Sandwich will be taking over another kitchen near you on November 27. Make sure to get there early!

Supper Club Style: A Dinner at the Queen of Tarts

On Saturday night, Mack and I joined a dozen others at the Queen of Tarts who had snagged a reservation to their first ever dinner. A $45 prix fixe meal, this special event was a way for the cafe to ease into evening service. Although proprietor Linda Kearney has said that she would like to be open for supper more, they are still trying to stabilize the bakery side of things, and are in need of a sous chef (e-mail Linda if you’re interested!).

At any rate, these dinners will feature guest chefs in the kitchen for the time being, which will provide up-and-coming talent the opportunity to showcase their philosophy and skills. The chef on Saturday was Vikram Redganokar, who works with Shane Chartrand at L2. His meal highlighted several local suppliers (nearly all of whom were clearly identified on the menu, something we were happy to see).

It’s worth noting that the Queen of Tarts after dark is much different than the same venue during the day. Unlike its bright, bustling self, with the dimmed lights and jazz streaming through the sound system, the dining area transformed into an intimate bistro. Plus, because we were among such a small number of parties, it almost felt like we were part of an underground supper club, the best kept secret in the city.

Mack, all dressed up!

The meal started with arguably the best bread basket available in Edmonton – how many restaurants can boast house-made bread? Although the crust of the epi didn’t fare well with reheating, it was more than made up by the warm gougères. These little cheese puffs tasted like buttery pockets of air. Thankfully, these pastries are available for purchase in the bakery on Fridays and Saturdays as well – so I know we’ll be coming by soon for another taste.

Bread basket

The soup precluded the amuse that night, and couldn’t have set the bar higher. The roasted organic butternut squash soup had the luxuriously silky texture of a finely sieved mixture, with an underlying hint of sage and a drizzle of Mighty Trio hemp oil. The only downside was that we wished for a larger serving!

Roasted butternut squash soup

An amuse of organic golden beets, and Icelandic rye (featuring Gold Forest Grains rye) followed. Instead of the tiny bowl and fork supplied, this would have worked better served in a Chinese soup spoon (porcelain, of course, to match all of the other dinnerware). Mack, ever the beet fan, loved it, right down to the crisp rocket finish.

Golden beet amuse bouche

Neither of us expected such a generous entree portion. Between the braised Medicine Man Bison short ribs bourguignon, the Sundog Organics root vegetable pavé and the caramelized fennel, I had trouble finishing my plate! The ribs shredded easily with a fork and knife, but I was looking for a sauce that would tie the entire plate together (perhaps incorporating fennel somehow?).

Short ribs bourguignon

Dessert was the only course that Linda herself took care of, a BC apple tart tatin. The pastry, no surprise, was exquisite, baked to a flaky, golden perfection. Topped with a fig jam, hazlenuts and crème fraiche made with Johnson Family Farm cream, it was a sweet end to an even sweeter meal.

BC apple tart tatin

Expect the next Queen of Tarts dinner some time in November. Linda isn’t sure who the guest chef will be yet, but she knows she will be stepping into the kitchen some time in the future to create a menu herself. I’m sure it will be worth checking out!

Queen of Tarts Bakery & Bistro
10129 104 Street
(780) 421-4410

Warm and Welcoming: The Marc

Two weeks ago, I finally made it out to The Marc. At one point this year, The Marc was the “most talked about” establishment, partly due to the lineage that connects it to the dearly departed Il Portico (Patrick Saurette was the restaurant’s general manager). But in the months that followed, it had been supplanted by chatter about Tres Carnales. Even still, The Marc remained on top of the must try lists of many hungry trendsetters.

I found out why. When Jill and I arrived for our 5:30 reservation on Friday, we were among only three parties in the room. By the time we left, the place was packed, with a sizeable group in the lobby still awaiting a table. The atmosphere was lively, no doubt buoyed by the end of the work week, but also cultivated by an attentive staff that made sure diners were well taken care of and never rushed.

The room has already been described many times over, but I wanted to make mention of the mirrors that lined the top of one wall that reflected the flickering candlelight in the room. Between those and the muted earth tone colour scheme of the dining room, the space felt sophisticated and intimate.

Interior, before nightfall

Jill’s first impression was that the tables were much too close together, an eavesdropping distance. But afterwards, she recanted that comment, and said that wasn’t the case – it was a neighbourly, but comfortable, distance. What amazed me (and perhaps is the ultimate compliment about their food) is that I could smell what those next to us were eating – everything was so wonderfully fragrant in the best sense of the word, perfuming the air with the sentiment of sitting in someone’s kitchen.

Jill and I decided to share the venison cheek ($13) to start. It was a smaller serving than either of us had anticipated, but packed with flavour. It was delicate, cooked to melting perfection, and paired so well with the poached pear underneath.

Venison cheek

Jill ordered the seafood stew ($23), which arrived in the pot! The server then spooned a serving into her bowl at the table, perfect for showcasing the intense aromatics of the bouillabaisse. She enjoyed the generous amount of seafood in the stew – hake, clams and shrimp among them – and appreciated the breadbasket refills to help mop up the liquid. Her only quibble was that she found the broth just too salty.

Seafood stew

Though my knee-jerk reaction was to order the steak frites, I thought I should “save” that dish for an upcoming dinner here with Mack (he complains that I like to dine at new restaurants without him). So instead, I chose the pork shoulder confit ($21). It was a very large serving, reminiscent of the braised pork at Niche, and was tender as it should have been. I particularly enjoyed the well-balanced brown butter tomato sauce. The vegetables, however, could have been better – the zucchini was a tad undercooked.

Pork shoulder confit

With too-tempting dessert options, we had to try more than one. Jill’s lemon tart literally made her mouth water as she was enjoying it – how’s that for a thumbs up? The silky custard was perhaps a little too tart for me, but perfect for a citrus fiend like Jill.

Lemon tart

The server didn’t even flinch when I ordered the beignets in addition of Jill’s tart. But the twinkle in his eye when he delivered it to us just dared us to finish the absolutely mountainous plate of doughnuts. Surprisingly, the crispy, warm beignets themselves were not overly sweet, in spite of being coated in sugar. And for an added fun factor, two sauces were provided for dipping: crème anglaise and caramel. We did finish the plate (thank goodness Jill helped me), but we had to walk off our meal at the nearby Legislature grounds afterwards!

Beignets

Based on the service and the food, I wouldn’t hesitate to return. Our experience of The Marc was a very warm and welcoming one, so I’ll be back, with Mack in tow next time!

An Afternoon in Old Strathcona

Mack had a meeting on Saturday afternoon in Old Strathcona, so we decided that it would be a good excuse to spend part of the day there – have brunch, check out the market, go window shopping.

It was such a beautiful fall day, perfect for a stroll. I also love the nuggets that only pedestrians are privy to, such as this sandwich board in front of O’Byrne’s:

We started off the day with brunch at Artisan Resto-Cafe. A 2-for-1 coupon for the restaurant was burning a hole through my wallet with its impending expiry date, so it meant a re-visit was in order – we haven’t been back since we had brunch there almost two years ago.

Unfortunately, it was not a good experience, one plagued with amateur mistakes that cannot be justified by a veteran establishment. It all started with a chaotic front of house. Although a “please wait to be seated” sign seemed to signal that a staff person would be greeting incoming diners, until we stepped up and waived down a server, we received no acknowledgement. Worst of all, without an orderly system, a party of three ended up being seated in front of three other groups that had arrived before them, us included.

After about fifteen minutes, we were ushered to a table with apologies. I know the server did her best, but after forgetting to bring milk for our coffee twice, then failing to refill out coffee at all once our food arrived, it didn’t exactly make up for their poor initial impression.

Our order took about twenty minutes to arrive, but…both of our plates were delicious! Tasty to the point where we really had to shake our heads at the service – the kitchen deserves better! My eggs were creamy, the potatoes fried to a lovely crisp, and the pancake (as it was last time), is one of the best I’ve had in the city.

Country Harvest

Bacon and cheddar omelette

Since brunch took a lot longer than either of us had anticipated, we had to split up – Mack headed to his meeting, and I walked over to the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market.

I haven’t been to the OSFM since March, when the City Market set-up shop in City Hall earlier this year until the transition to the street. It’s always nice to visit though, especially since it is the permanent home of some vendors like Peas on Earth and August Organics who I don’t get to shop from.

It really was all about pumpkins at the market on Saturday – from mini pumpkins to those just waiting to be carved into jack-o’-lanterns to absolutely massive “show” pumpkins.

Mini pumpkins from Peas on Earth

Pumpkins from August Organics

Massive pumpkins from Riverbend Gardens

I also stopped by to chat with Sarah of Belua Designs, and found out that she will be reaching an important milestone soon: 10,000 monsters! She isn’t sure when that 10,000th adoption will take place, but when it does, there may be balloons and confetti to celebrate!

Belua Designs

The warmer weather was perfect for outdoor concessions – Molly’s Eats, Eva Sweet, Fat Franks and the kettle corn trucks were out in full force. But apparently in recent weeks the OSFM concession has revamped their menu to feature dishes that source products from market vendors. I’ve heard nothing but good things – when I’m not so stuffed, I’ll have to check it out next time!

Concession

After some window shopping, I took the bus back home. Before leaving, I couldn’t resist taking a picture of the newly finished (?) Palomar Building. The signage looks great – it makes me want to come back in the evening to see what they look like lit up!

Hope you enjoyed your Saturday as well!

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