Tag: restaurant reviews

Small on Food: Devlin’s

Though we already had our mind set on a pre-show meal at Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge (10507 82 Avenue) on Wednesday, it turns out it was a great day to do so, as there was a sign advertising $2 off all tapas.

At Devlin’s

We had first seen Executive Chef Sebastian Lysz in action at the Sip! Wine and Food event at Capital Ex the month prior, and were excited to see if the food at his regular place of work would match the showmanship he had demonstrated on stage.

The interior of Devlin’s, with its cool dark wood everything, black leather chairs, banquet, and booths definitely exuded a lounge feeling. Though the secluded patio was tempting (heated with lamps, a requirement…in the month of August), we opted to sit facing the front windows to watch the world go by.

Interior

The summer menu, featuring only tapas and an extensive drink selection (par for the course) was disappointing for our hungry stomachs – perhaps our dinner choice that night should have taken entrée selection into consideration. At any rate, seeking warm plates, I decided on two flatbreads (aka pizzas, at $9 each), advertised as being “finished in a 700 degree oven” and sliders, irresistible despite their steep regular price tag of $13.

We were alone in the lounge at that point, so service was decidedly attentive, though a tiny trickle of patrons as we waited for our orders ensured the waitresses would have some tables to keep them busy when we left.

Our food arrived in no time, unadorned but visually pleasing on bright white plates. The sliders (or other round, circular edibles) must be a fixture on the menu, otherwise, justifying the purchase of such singular-use dishes would be difficult (though the price of the sliders could go a long way to making a dent in the initial investment…). We were treated to three different dressings to the base of a house-made bun and slow-cooked short rib: blue cheese, goat cheese, and southwestern BBQ. I found the beef tender and moist, elevated by the fresh bread encapsulating it, but Mack and I both agreed that the sliders weren’t worth $4 a piece. The flatbreads were the better deal, and more filling as well. The chorizo/gouda/mozza combination was all right, but the sausage was surprisingly flavourless. I much preferred the fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil version – the fresh cheese and the drizzled olive oil finish made the pizza.

Sliders

Chorizo Flatbread

Margherita Flatbread

Like most places that only offer small plates, it would be wise to eat something prior to heading out, lest sampling make a massive dent in your wallet. I’d return again to Devlin’s, but would heed my own advice first.

Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge
10507 82 Avenue
(780) 437-7489

“It ain’t no value menu”: Burger Baron

Whenever we would pass by a Burger Baron, those shady-looking drive-in or cottage-shaped fast food parlours, Mack and I would always verbally state our intention to give it a try at some point. On Friday, we finally did.

Blue sky and Burger Baron

This location (9908 70 Avenue) seemed safe enough on the outside, in terms of cleanliness anyway. The open kitchen provided some relief, and the interior was well-kept. We perused the extensive menu, spanning not only the expected burgers, but fried chicken, grilled cheese, and donairs as well. In addition to slightly discounted combination meals, Burger Baron also offers daily specials. On this day, 2 cheeseburgers were priced at $7, a deal too good for Mack to pass up. I opted for the Dad’s Burger ($4.75), minus the questionable “special Baron  sauce”, and we added a large Strawberry Shake ($3.75), and sides of both onion rings and fries to our order. It was a sizable portion of food for two, but we didn’t expect the total to ring in at $21 – it was definitely not priced to compare with McDonald’s value menu.

Extensive menu

A small seating area was available to patrons eating in, though with the steady stream of drive-thru customers (the majority of them individual males), I can imagine their take-away business to be quite sizable.

After our order was announced, we picked up our tray and couldn’t wait to dig in. The thin beef patties were dwarfed by the fluffy nature of the bun, a ratio Mack quite enjoyed. My burger was fine, though the bacon was disappointingly limp and not crisp. The fries, which had been tossed slightly in a seasoning salt, were fresh, and darn tasty. The onion rings could have used a bit of oomph, however, as they tasted like they had been pulled from the very back of the freezer, but I still enjoyed their deep-fried goodness. The shake was a winner with Mack as well.

Fries and Dad’s Burger (bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, onions and pickles)

Onion Rings and Cheeseburger

Mack devours his first cheeseburger

Though our dining experience was a positive one overall, and didn’t disappoint despite the long build up of expectations, we agreed that the price wouldn’t justify frequent visits for the Baron’s fast food.

Burger Baron
9908 70 Avenue (plus 10 other locations in Edmonton)
(780) 433-7634
Monday-Saturday 11 am – 9pm, Sunday 12 – 8pm

Not Worth the Trip: Three Amigos

On a quest to find Mexican that would duplicate the cuisine she fell in love with in California, May has been to seemingly every Latin American eatery in Edmonton. I went along for the ride on Thursday, where she was finally able to test Three Amigos (4035 106 Street), nonchalantly tucked away in a Duggan strip mall.

Primarily known for take-out, the tiny space was packed when we arrived at 6pm. Thankfully, by the time our food was ready, the crowd has dissipated, likely chased away by the sweltering dead heat in the place – I could only wonder how hot it was in the kitchen. A take out bar/order assembly area took up the majority of the space, with five cramped tables situated against the free walls. Handwritten signs above the counter detailed the menu, accompanied with photos of prepared dishes for those unfamiliar with the cuisine. Many of the typical “Western” favourites were available, including flautas, empanadas, tamales, nachos and quesadillas, priced from $5.99 (without sides). In preparation for a week of Fringe site gluttony, I shied away from the very tempting deep-fried items in favour of the enchilada ($12.99, served with refried beans and Mexican rice).

The wait for our food was agonizingly long – and probably felt longer because of the temperature of the room, and the stress of watching the clock tick down closer to curtain time of the show we were due for. Thankfully, the cool drinks we picked up from the cooler (May a $2 Papaya Pineapple juice, and I a $2.49 strawberry Jarritos, an imported Mexican soft drink) helped relax our wait somewhat.

Jarritos and Papaya Pineapple juice

When our orders were up, presented on plastic plates with disposable cutlery on the side, we were more than ready to chow down. Because they had run out of chicken, the server asked if we would mind a substitution of steak for one order, and of course we didn’t – the more variety, the merrier. Thus, each of us were able to try two types of meat fillings. Unfortunately, the steak was too salty, and quite difficult to cut with a plastic knife (perhaps they could have actual silverware for those planning to eat in?). The chicken enchilada was much better, and I did enjoy the creamy rich mole sauce covering both wraps.

Enchiladas

In the end though, May rated Three Amigos below other similar establishments in Edmonton (El Rancho, Acajutla, Mexico Lindo, in descending order), and likely won’t make the trip back again. I agreed – for the price, the interior, and the food, Three Amigos isn’t worth the trip.

Three Amigos
4035 106 Street NW
(780) 490-6394
Monday, Tuesday, Thursday 11am-9pm, Wednesday 11am-8:30pm, Friday 11am-10pm, Saturday 12pm-9:30pm, Sunday 1-8pm

Tofu Five Ways: Padmanadi

I shouldn’t have suggested another buffet (my third in six days) for a catch-up supper with Bettina, but a monthly event put on by the Vegetarians of Alberta at Padmanadi (10626 97 Street) was too irresistible to walk away from. Buffets in general are a great way to economically sample a multitude of dishes, but in particular, this “niche” cuisine of vegan food (in addition to no meats, no dairy or animal byproducts such as honey or gelatin can be used).

Padmanadi has quite the cult following in Edmonton and is very well-known for their vegetarian cuisine. The t-shirts for sale at the front of the restaurant, with the words “we (heart) padmanadi” were proof enough to me that their popularity had reached a critical mass.

“we (heart) padmanadi”

The restaurant was packed, but table turnover was fast – I’m sure the sauna-like conditions had something to do with the dine-and-depart mentality. The servers had big smiles plastered on their faces, and it was clear they were enjoying the work – their cheerful demeanours demonstrated what restaurant service strives to be – carefree but efficient.

We grabbed large plates off the communal table, loaded up with some rice, and proceeded to taste each of the eight vegan dishes. Bettina was disappointed with the small variety, but given that this was a fundraiser for the non-profit Vegetarians of Alberta, I didn’t mind. Beyond recognizable spring rolls, green beans, and stir-fried deep-fried tofu, I struggled with the tofu stand-in dishes of sweet and sour “pork”, deep fried “chicken” balls, “chicken” curry and stir-fried “beef” and vegetables.  

The vegan line-up

My plate

Bettina really liked the rich, coconut-milk infused curry, and both of us agreed the spring rolls were great. While we were stuffed at the end of our meal (two or three plates later), I couldn’t help but think the tofu, though disguised in sweet sauce, a battered shell, or adopting a similar consistency to beef, was still tofu. It was an interesting experience, but I’m much too used to the variety of meat to limit my consumption to tofu and vegetables.

Padmanadi Vegetarian Restaurant
10626 97 Street NW
(780) 428-8899
Tuesday to Sunday 4-10pm

Dessert is Always the Best Part: Red Ox Inn

On the occasion of a celebration dinner, May, Andrea, Shermie and myself were able to strike another Original Fare restaurant off of our “to try” list.

Red Ox Inn sign

We met at the Red Ox Inn (9420 91 Street NW) on Thursday, a tiny boutique restaurant with a capacity to hold around 26 patrons. The sleek banquets and simple furnishings reminded me of the Blue Pear, but the somewhat crammed design, which allowed for those extra few seats, in my opinion took away any potential streamlined elegance. Because of the size of the room as well, I kept harking back to the “Sound Level” category present at the end of each New York Times restaurant review – while levels weren’t unbearable, the close quarters definitely made an intimate meal an impossibility, save for the one lonely booth in the corner.

The menu and price points are similar to Madison’s Grill, and in effect also made deciding on just a single entrée difficult. I eventually settled on the Arctic Char (hoping it would emulate just some of the glory of Mack’s Blink entrée), while Shermie stuck with her benchmarking steak (Alberta tenderloin medallions, in this case) and Andrea and May began their reflective dining exercise with Duck.

Service was a bit slow throughout due to the fact that there were just two servers on hand (compared to the five at the Blue Pear), but the meandering attention seemed to match with the overall cool, leisurely vibe of the Red Ox – a place where diners are expected to relax and enjoy the food over wine and good conversation.

Eventually, our entrees arrived, each plate artfully arranged with a generous pool of sauce underneath each pile. Shermie thoroughly enjoyed her steak, and though Andrea had dish envy looking over at my char, I had to admit her duck looked pretty good – perfectly cooked, accompanied by a tart raspberry vinaigrette. My sherry vinaigrette, however, was much too sour for my liking. As someone who prefers to eat fish without a citrus adornment, it was probably the wrong dish to order. Thus, though I was hoping to be able to experience the distinct flavour of the fish, I couldn’t through the overpowering and ever-present sauce.

Pancetta wrapped char fillet, roast garlic stuffing, mashed potatoes, warm sherry vinaigrette

Grilled duck breast, mixed berry chutney, ricotta-spinach gnudi, balsamic-thyme demi glace

Alberta tenderloin medallion with cognac wild mushroom cream, roast root vegetables, mashed potatoes

Dessert for the dining twins was the lemon tart with a scoop of house-made raspberry sorbet, while Shermie and I opted instead for the warm chocolate cake accompanied with vanilla bean ice cream. Lovingly rich, but not cloyingly sweet, the oozing chocolate cake was extremely satisfying. Andrea and May also enjoyed their tart and in particular the fresh sorbet.

Warm chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream

Lemon tart with pinenut crust and raspberry sorbet

I will definitely consider the Red Ox Inn for a future special occasion dinner, but admit that it wouldn’t be high on my list if I was looking for an intimate, quiet space.

Red Ox Inn
9420 91 Street NW
(780) 465-5727
Tuesday to Sunday, 5-10pm

Indian Chalet: Khazana

In order to satisfy Mack’s midweek craving for butter chicken, we headed to Khazana (10177 107 Street NW) for their dinner buffet, offered only on Wednesday and Saturday nights. At $18.95 per person, it was a steep fee for Indian food in Edmonton, but with a willingness to see if it was worth it (and a 10% off coupon), we brought our empty stomachs and hoped for the best.

Interior

I was floored with the interior – it looked like no Indian restaurant I had ever visited. Instead of simple decor (in small family-run joints such as Maurya Palace) or lavish, bold tapestries and decorative artifacts (like New Asian Village), the wood paneling, overhead beams, and numerous open hearths suggested the inner sanctuary of a chalet retreat in the mountains. The faintly (and somewhat annoyingly repetitive) background music also made me imagine that an in-house piano soloist wasn’t too far out of this realm. The far right of the restaurant also included a chef viewing platform, with an elevated chef on display as he prepared various meats and dishes. While I am always happy to have my expectations for eateries defied, the decor didn’t seem congruent or complimentary to the cuisine.

At any rate, we were shown to a table, and provided with just about the only attention we received from the servers that night – initial drink service and a quick exchange that we were planning to utilize the buffet. Given that the majority of the diners in the restaurant that night were patronizing the self-serve buffet, I didn’t think it unreasonable to think that our water glasses would be refilled without request.

There were over a dozen hot entree items to choose from, but their dessert selection would be easily dwarfed by Punjab Sweets. We heaped our first plates full to get a good idea of their range of dishes, but of course, concentrated our efforts on their butter chicken. Unfortunately, the chicken wasn’t as tasty as the sample we had tried at Taste of Edmonton just a few weeks back – the sauce was all right, but the chicken itself was tough and dry in parts. Thankfully, the mutter paneer (a curry made with peas and cheese cubes) was delicious and made up somewhat for the first disappointment, just mildly spiced and interesting with a variety of textures.

Mack loads up

Mack’s plate

My plate

Not related to the food, but telling somewhat of the general neglect towards the experience of the customer was the comedy of errors patrons had with the metal lid of the naan bread container. Broken and thus without a handle, I couldn’t count the number of times a loud clang ran out through the restaurant because someone had accidentally flipped the lid completely off, or stood there for a confused half a minute trying to figure out how the opening was controlled. One would think the operators would bear the relatively small expense of replacing, or at least fixing, the lid.

While I won’t rule out future a la carte visits to Khazana, or perhaps a trial run of their lunch buffet, I won’t again be swallowing the dinner buffet expense again.

Khazana
10177 107 Street NW
(780) 702-0330
Lunch Monday to Friday 11:30am-2pm; Dinner Sunday to Thursday 5-9:30pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10:30pm

Ginger Beef Gluttony: Beijing Beijing

I’m not sure how we got onto the topic of ginger beef at Heritage Days on Saturday, but something propelled us to meet at Beijing Beijing ( 700, 3803 Calgary Trail) to satisfy a craving for the salty-sweet, deep-fried "meat".

Mack, Dickson and I went there last year after Heritage Days, so it could very much become an annual post-festival tradition. In any case, the dinner buffet was the draw, priced at $15.95 on Friday to Sundays (and $12.95 Monday to Thursdays). With around thirty items to choose from (including the salad and dessert bars), quality wasn’t the order of the day. But for picky eaters, or those who love variety, Beijing Beijing does a decent job at mass-producing Western Chinese food.

How can anyone pass up heat lamp-warmed goodness?

Loading up

Jane & Yi-Li (notice the different compositions of their plates)

My colourful (first) plate

I will admit to being partial to the crispy deep fried won tons and the saccharine sweet and sour chicken, so there was some enjoyment gleaned from my mass consumption of cheaply-prepared grub. Of course, as some meals go, it is the company and not the food that makes the meal.

Funny instances also help make meals memorable, and Beijing Beijing provided one of the best photo opportunities of late – Mack’s epic fail:

Is that ginger beef on your plate?

Greg, on the other hand, was able to chow down on a full plate of dessert, cream pie and all.

 

"I’d like a Blender Blaster with this."

As Megan would say, "Good times."

Beijing Beijing
700, 3803 Calgary Trail
(780) 430-7720

Greek Redemption: It’s All Greek to Me

I would be remiss if I didn’t disclose that Greek cuisine is not high on my list of ethnic favourites. I think I’ve had too many experiences like lunch at Koutouki where the meat is dry, bland, and in that particular instance, overpowered by parsley. Still, I’m always up to try new places, and with a coupon in hand, Mack and I wandered over to It’s All Greek to Me (10127 100A Street) after the Taste of Edmonton last weekend.

Exterior

He had been to the restaurant before with colleagues, citing a positive experience, while this was my first time there. It looked charming enough from the outside, with a string of twinkle lights dangling from the blue awning. Inside, the usual blue and white colour scheme (is there really any other décor palette for Greek eateries?) dominated, with an entire wall of photo displays accented by the requisite smattering of artifacts, memorabilia and ceiling vinery. The casual nature of the dining area, in combination with the dim lighting and quiet corners made me think that It’s All Greek to Me would make a great date spot.

Interior

“You know you’re Greek if…”

The restaurant was moderately busy, with several dining pairs and one group already seated. We were provided with menus, glasses of water, and plenty of time to peruse our options. I wasn’t that hungry to begin with (it was our second dinner, after all), so we opted to share two entrees, and planned on taking the leftovers home for the next day’s meal. Mack and I were both immediately drawn to the Gyros with Pita, donair meat served on pita ($13.50), and for our second plate, settled on the Dolmades ($13.50), grape leaves stuffed with ground beef and rice.

Our food came in reasonable time. Both plates were dominated by the house salad – iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cucumber and a tiny amount of feta tossed with a light vinaigrette. The gyros was fantastic – tender slices of meat, well-seasoned and flavourful – we probably should have just ordered two of this dish. The dolmades were new to me, and I resorted to asking our waitress how to eat it. Being used to banana-leaf wrapped rice, I just wanted to make sure I could consume the outer layer. She assured me that the tender leaves were safe to eat. Tucked inside was a mixture of spiced ground beef and rice, and though it wasn’t bad, there was nothing exceptional about the combination either.

Gyros with Pita

Dolmades

Our waitress was wonderful. While she had a backup who would assist her now and then, the dining area was mostly her domain, and she was able to juggle a number of tables with care. Thus, because of the service, laid back atmosphere, and tasty gyros, I finally have a positive memory to override all of the negative experiences I have had in Greek restaurants. Hurrah for It’s All Greek to Me!

It’s All Greek to Me
10127 100A Street
(780) 425-2073
Lunch: Monday to Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Monday to Thursday 5-9pm and Saturday 5-10pm

Picnic in the Industrial Heartland: Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli

Besides the usual trinkets one might find in a woman’s purse, I have two other things that can consistently be found in mine. One is “the list,” which I have written about before (a paper square with names and address of restaurants I would like to, but have yet to, try) and a small wallet filled with coupons for restaurants that I probably wouldn’t try without a discount incentive. Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli (6508 75 Street) fell into this latter category.

Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli

Before our coffee tasting at the nearby Transcend, I thought the Deli would make a convenient stopover for dinner. We drove up to the restaurant, a building rather out of place amongst the supply stores and warehouses along 75th Street, and entered. It was empty, but we were quickly greeted by a man at the counter. He patiently waited while we perused the menu. Besides a variety of East Indian favourites, there were also some items that seemed out of place, including Spanakopita and donairs. Though I had to fight the urge to order the butter chicken, I ultimately decided a good Montreal smoked meat sandwich would be harder to come by in Edmonton, and thus thought it deserved the more pressing taste test.

After we both ordered the Smoke Meat Sandwich ($5.66, $1 extra for Swiss cheese), we took a seat outside at one of the plastic patio tables to escape the blistering heat inside the restaurant. Surveying our surroundings, amongst the wafting aroma of paint thinner, we couldn’t help but be reminded of the industrial setting of our dinner.

The sandwich itself looked promising, with what appeared to be the 160g of meat the clerk promised. The bread, however, was cold to the touch (I saw the rye loaf being taken out of the fridge) – a quick warm through in a panini press in this case wouldn’t have been a bad idea. Thankfully, the meat itself was quite nice, spiced with something I couldn’t quite place. The Swiss was also a nice addition.

Smoke Meat Sandwich

Inexpensive and relatively fast, the Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli wouldn’t be a bad option should one be passing by in need of sustenance, but in my opinion, it’s not a dining destination in and of itself.

Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli
6508 75 Street
(780) 465-7088
Monday-Wednesday 11am-9pm, Thursday-Saturday 11am-10pm

The Sandwich Spot: Colonel Mustard’s Canteen

Dickson’s pick for lunch on Wednesday was Colonel Mustard’s Canteen (12321 107 Ave). Though Hicks on Six named it the “city’s best” sandwiches, I always intended to hit up the Canteen for a pre-show dinner before a play at the nearby Roxy Theatre.

At any rate, we found a parking spot across the street from the restaurant and walked into a hailstorm. The Canteen was larger than I thought it would be, with a deep seating area in the back partitioned off by the cold case, counter and de facto lobby in the front. From what I could see, the walls were bright, the space cheery with natural light, and the area absolutely buzzing with what appeared to be a crowd of regulars.

Interior

As we were pressed for time, we opted for the faster “take out” option to eat our order at one of the tables by the door. We were told a waitress would be right with us, giving us a moment to survey the three large blackboards with a multitude of sandwich and wrap options, all priced around $10. The waitress brought us glasses of water as requested (making it difficult for me to distinguish between the waiting area we were supposedly in from the full-service tables in the back), and I decided on something light – an Italian sandwich with prosciutto, provolone, and vegetable spread on a French loaf – while Dickson ordered the Mustard’s Meatloaf (Italian sausage rolled with Italian meats and cheeses, baked in tomato sauce).

While we waited for our food (keeping our fingers crossed that our plates would be ready as expediently as promised), I had time to marvel at the amazingly efficient hostess. Dealing with a barrage of patrons ready to pay, escorting parties to their tables, and greeting customers stepping through the door, she was always friendly, and did not let the steady stream dampen her courtesy.

Our food arrived in small plastic baskets with a pickle each. What had been described as “meatloaf” on the menu board looked an awful lot like spam when Dickson lifted the Kaiser cover. The diced meat also made it hard to eat his sandwich, short of carving it up with a fork and a knife. Thankfully, I had a better experience with my sandwich– the loaf was fresh, and I loved the combination of mild provolone and salty prosciutto. Even better, I encountered bursts of basil with every bite.

 

Mustard’s Meatloaf

Italian Sandwich with Prosciutto and Provolone

While I wouldn’t describe the sandwich as the best I’ve had in Edmonton, lunch at Colonel Mustard’s convinced me that I’d have to return for dinner one day, even without the pretence of a theatre engagement.

Colonel Mustard’s Canteen
12321 107 Ave
(780) 448-1590
Tuesday-Saturday 11am-9pm