For the Love of Sandwiches: Wild Flour Bakery and Valbella Gourmet Foods

Our brief escape to the Rockies last October also involved less extravagant meals than The Bison. First up: Wild Flour Bakery, a casual café after my own heart – bright and cheery, and filled with the alluring aroma of fresh bread, it looked great at first glance. Mack had a not-so-positive experience there in the past, but was eager to see if they could make amends this time.

Their lunch menu consisted primarily of sandwiches, served on fresh house-made bread. Mack’s choice of the aged cheddar sandwich was unimpressive – he remarked that he loved the cheese and the bread, but he was expecting more from the combination. And though I enjoyed my sandwich, I thought the melted Swiss overwhelmed the delicate Valebella prosciutto.

Aged Cheddar Sandwich

 Swiss and Prosciutto Sandwich

We fared better with our choice of hot beverages. My London Fog (something I don’t have often, but the Earl Grey-milk mixture sounded good on a chilly afternoon) was good, and Mack’s Mexican hot chocolate was appropriately spiced.

Latte art!

Something we didn’t get a chance to order was dessert (though the chocolate torte looked mighty tempting) – so perhaps our next visit will concentrate only on sweets.

On the way back to Edmonton, we stopped in Canmore for a bite to eat at Valbella Gourmet Foods. I am familiar with them primarily through their bacon and sausages sold through Sunterra, but was curious to see their whole range of products.

The deli counter at Valbella

If we only had a cooler, I would have definitely stocked up

As for the small cafe that served only a handful of items, it was a revolving door of customers. They seemed to have their share of regulars from nearby construction or trades sites, very similar to the usual lunchtime crowd at The Italian Bakery or Handy Bakery. So – we ordered what everyone else ordered – the special that featured a few different types of meat.

Sandwich counter

While I typically prefer my sandwiches toasted or warmed in some way, the fresh bread, still crisp, made up for this somewhat. And the assortment of meat was a good opportunity to try a bit of everything.

Valbella special sandwich

If you’re passing through Canmore (with a cooler!) be sure to stop by for some top-quality meats. While the sandwich was good – the meat case is where it’s at.

Wild Flour Bakery
211 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 760-5074
Open everyday from 8am-5pm

Valbella Gourmet Foods
104 Elk Run Boulevard, Canmore, AB
(403) 678-4109
Monday-Friday 8am-6pm, Saturday 9am-5pm, closed Sundays

Upscale Comfort: The Bison

While I start out with good intentions to post about eating experiences soon after they happen, sometimes I fail. Our weekend getaway to the mountains last October was one such instance. So – mostly to help maintain my own food memory, here are a few recaps of what we ate.

Ever since my introduction to The Bison by way of Andree’s post, I have been intrigued about their sustainable approach to food. When Mack asked me for restaurant recommendations for his trip to Banff two years ago, the Bison was at the top of my list. His enjoyable visit further heightened my desire to experience it myself.

We arrived a little early for our 7:30pm reservation, and with our table not yet ready, decided to relax with some wine in the lounge downstairs. It turned out we just missed their happy hour promotion on wine (40% off bottles, from 4-7pm), but we did think it was neat that patrons were allowed to bring the discounted bottle purchased in the lounge with them into the formal dining room upstairs.

Wine while waiting

I was surprised to see that the lounge (which has been open since February 2009) had a different menu than the dining room. With savoury cheese fondues and cheese and charcuterie plates, we had to resist the temptation to simply stay on in the lounge. More than variety though, the more casual lounge fare also enables the chef to exhibit his versatility in the kitchen – for example, whole pigs are purchased and used at The Bison, and all charcuterie served is house-made.

View from the bar

We eventually made our way upstairs, into a dimly-lit room that was darkened further as our evening progressed. I loved many things about the space, including the polished concrete floor and the warm furniture, while the open kitchen was Mack’s favourite element. However, as all of the servers notably wore denim, I wasn’t sure what the intended atmosphere was – the casual dress seemed to clash with the décor.

Tone confusion notwithstanding, everything else was great. I’ve never seen a list of suppliers as detailed, three pages with a paragraph devoted to each of the local farms who provide The Bison with their produce and proteins. Reading about the farmers really helps the diner connect with the restaurant in a larger context, and recognize all of the people involved in bringing the meal to the table.

Being a sucker for French onion soup meant I wouldn’t consider anything else as an appetizer once I saw the restaurant’s bison version on the menu. Mack’s fondness of carnival food was appeased with Bison’s gourmet corn dogs, made with lamb. For my entrée, I continued the theme of ordering namesake dishes and selected the caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame and fresh mozzarella pizza (which is what Mack ordered on his previous visit), and Mack decided on beef.

Needless to say, Mack loved his appetizer. If I had wanted more than a bite of the tender lamb lightly battered just so, I’m sure I would have had to pry it out of his hands. As for my French onion soup, I think it should have been listed with a warning sign next to it – the huge serving was so rich that I struggled to finish it, to the point where I barely touched my entrée.

Lamb corn dogs!

Bison onion soup

Mack’s steak was perfectly cooked, served with a generous amount of goat cheese, but we both wondered at the use of asparagus out of season. The pizza was also great – I loved the novelty of edamame, and the salty bite of the cured bison.

Mack’s steak (for the life of us, we can’t remember what cut)

Caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame, fresh mozzarella pizza

Service was good – we were never left wanting for anything, and felt well taken care of in the hands of our competent server. After our experience, a stop at The Bison (in particular, the lounge!) will be a necessity the next time we visit Banff.

The Bison
208 Bear Street
(403) 762-5550

Mayfield Dinner Theatre: “Dial ‘M’ for Murder”

For Christmas last year, Mack, Thom and I gave Grandma Male a ticket to an upcoming show at the Mayfield Dinner Theatre. None of us had been before, but with our collective love of theatre and food, we thought it would be something fun to experience together for the first time.

Mayfield Dinner Theatre

The show we agreed on was Dial ‘M’ for Murder, a play made famous by Alfred Hitchcock, that happened to star two of my favourite Teatro la Quindicina actors – Jeff Haslam and Mark Meer. Tickets ranged from $55.99 to $79.99, which seemed pricey to me at the outset, but factoring in the convenience of dinner and entertainment in the same venue took the edge off somewhat. As I hadn’t been to the theatre before, I didn’t have any idea what constituted a good seat. I relied extensively on the opinion of the ticket agent, and thankfully, she steered us to a pretty good seat.

Our view of the stage, from a raised booth

When I purchased the tickets, I was told that the buffet dinner would be served from 6-8pm. We arrived around 6:30 to an already bustling venue. Looking around the room (and seeing the ads for retirement communities, mobility aids, and dentures in the playbill) it was evident that the crowd skewed older – Mack commented that the Mayfield might consider further marketing initiatives to attract a more diverse audience.

After depositing our coats and bags at our comfortable booth angled just right of the stage, we headed to the separate buffet room, connected to the theatre via a short hallway. Nearly three dozen cold starters and hot entrees awaited us, in addition to the usual assortment of cakes, squares and fruit at the dessert bar. We joined the line-up, eager to fill up our first of several plates.

Like most buffets, the food was hit and miss. Recommended dishes included the smoked Alberta whitefish, the roasted chicken in cream sauce and sautéed beef tenderloin and shitake mushrooms. To avoid: sushi, the prime rib (served cold), and the flavourless manicotti.

My plate

We seemed to fare better on dessert as a whole, each of us enjoying our respective choice of sweets. Mack especially liked the carrot cake, and my black forest torte was rich, but thankfully restrained in terms of sugar content.

Mack and Thom hit up the dessert bar

Our early arrival ensured we had plenty of time to enjoy our food, without feeling rushed. When they announced that the buffet would be closing in fifteen minutes we had already had our fair share. Although the food was self-serve, a server did approach our table to ask if we wanted any drinks other than water and coffee. Also, roving staff were great at promptly picking up empty dishes and refilling glasses – even though it was our first time, it was clear the Mayfield was a well-oiled machine.

As for the other half of the evening, I was a bit disappointed with the show, which follows a jealous husband as he blackmails an old college classmate into killing his wife. While I’ve never seen the Hitchcock version, I expected a lot more from this production and from the actors. I thought the use of ominous music was unnecessary and overdone, and cheapened the on-stage tension tangible in some scenes. Also, while Jeff Haslam (playing the scheming husband Tony Wendice) was somewhat successful at walking the fine line between drama and comedy, John Wright (in the role of Inspector Hubbard) was less so, and to me, upended the serious tone of the play. More than anything, I found myself unable (or unwilling) to sympathize with any of the characters, so in the end, the show was a lost cause for me.

With this particular show, and the at par meal, Mack and I both agreed that we didn’t see the value of our $69.99 ticket. Besides the convenience of a one-stop dinner and show, the alternatives that we could think of (dinner at Origin India or Packrat Louie and show at the Varscona or Catalyst Theatres) would be similar in price, but almost guaranteed to be of better quality. While I wouldn’t rule out a visit in the future, the sway of the production would have to be pretty great to get me through the door again.

Of course, with any night out, the company plays a factor. And on that night at least, we found some solace at our table.

Grandma Male and Thom

Mack and me

Mayfield Dinner Theatre (at the Mayfield Inn & Suites)
16615 109 Avenue
Ticket office: (780) 483-4051

Dial ‘M’ for Murder runs until April 11, 2010

Chinatown Resurgence: Samurai Bistro

I can usually find a pretty good excuse to try out new restaurants. On Monday, that excuse was the Mayor’s Celebration of the Arts. We’ve been attending the annual arts awards and recognition evening for three years (sadly, there was no on-stage closing dance number this time), and needed to have a pre-show meal. Samurai Bistro, open just two weeks, fit the bill perfectly.

I remember visiting Chinatown practically every weekend when I was younger, a stop for Asian groceries a necessary errand. At the time, the empty storefronts were fewer, and the traffic was heavier – mainstream grocery stores at the time didn’t carry as diverse an aisle of ethnic products, and T & T Supermarket didn’t exist. Even though Samurai Bistro and Basil Leaf make up what I would consider the western edge of Chinatown, it’s still nice to see some new development and revamped buildings anywhere in Chinatown.

Samurai Bistro is a tiny 30-seater restaurant, focusing on ramen and noodle bowls. The staff, who were friendly and attentive, did say that their dozen-item menu would be expanded in the next week, and would include daily seafood features. They also seemed sincere in their request for feedback after our meal, stating that they were a new business looking for any ways they could improve – it’s not something I’ve experienced a lot of, and though I didn’t have anything constructive to say, was a welcome inquiry.

The long and narrow restaurant was equipped with a refreshing open kitchen, lined with seats so patrons have the option of watching their food be prepared. I’m sure if the restaurant was packed, it would create quite the lively atmosphere. I loved the granite tables and the high-backed chairs, while Mack found the mounted wall “fireplace” to be particularly amusing. I thought the flat screen televisions, tuned to Food Network and ESPN, were two signs that we were in the right place.

Samurai Bistro interior

We underestimated our appetites that night, and opted to order the gyoza (7 for $7) to start. For our mains, I decided on the chicken and spicy herb ($9) bowl, and Mack chose the shrimp, scallop and seafood ($11) bowl. The restaurant had run out of ramen (brought in from Vancouver), so udon was our only option.

Order by photo!

The gyoza were fantastic – crispy and light on the outside, they were filled with just the right amount of pork and crispy cabbage. Definitely a keeper.

Gyoza, beautifully presented

As for our udon bowls, they were never-ending vessels, and ultimately defeated both of us. What first struck both of us was their generosity with seafood – Mack’s was filled to the brim with plump shrimp, scallops and calamari rings, in addition to crab legs. My accompanying chicken wasgood (the spicy coating making the difference), but seafood was definitely the winner here. The broth was all right, but my frequent pho ventures left me wanting for more flavour depth, which I realize is an unfair comparison.

Shrimp, Scallop and Seafood Bowl

 Chicken and Spicy Herb Bowl

Mack, a self-described “unstoppable crab-eating force”

With their responsive service and generous portions, I wouldn’t hesitate to return in the future. I hope others do the same, and perhaps in the process, help Chinatown regain some of its former glory.

Samurai Bistro
10632 100 Street
(780) 756-0834
Monday-Wednesday 11am-9pm, Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 11am-6pm

Relaxed but Refined: Madison’s Grill

Did somebody say poutine?

That’s what I thought to myself when I saw the lunch menu being offered by Madison’s Grill during Downtown Dining Week. While I don’t normally have enough time to head into the core for a weekday lunch, a combination of some accrued overtime and sheer desire to try Chef Blair Lebsack’s upscale take on poutine drove me to make a reservation.

Though the restaurant was nearly empty when Mack and I arrived, it quickly filled up with diners from nearby office towers, many who seemed eager to partake in the special pre-fixe deals before us. In the elegant dining room, seated at the table clothed in white, the polished hardwood gleaming in the late morning sunlight, it was easy to just relax. And while I do enjoy the quick-serve options of my usual Chinatown lunches, the refined setting provided a nice change of pace.

I knew I had my heart set on the braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine ($15) before I even entered the restaurant, but that’s not to say that the regular lunch menu did not have its own allure. From the Sylvan Star grilled cheese sandwich ($15) to the Irving’s pulled Berkshire pork sandwich ($16) and the grilled scallop and prawn risotto ($19), it was clear to both of us that this wouldn’t be our last daytime visit to Madison’s. Mack had to fight the urge to order a second helping of poutine, but eventually decided upon the prawn orzo ($15).

Before our food arrived, Blair was nice enough to chat with us for a bit. When I said I was surprised to find Sylvan Star cheese curds on the menu, he replied that the award-winning company only makes them a few times a year. For the occasion of Downtown Dining Week, Madison’s put in an order for 10 kg of curds! He also noted that the sauce Robert “gravy” was a reference not only to the French brown mustard sauce, but also to his Chef de Cuisine, Robert.

Our food was promptly delivered, and yes, I am happy to say that the poutine lived up to my high expectations. The squeaky cheese was divine, stringing errant fries together under a delicious gravy bath. And what of the short ribs? Off the bone came the meat, with just the right proportion of luxurious fat to enhance the tender richness of every bite.

Braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine

Mack was equally enthralled with his prawn orzo (though he did slightly regret not ordering the poutine after a small taste). He thought the pasta had been cooked perfectly, and liked the combination of the prawn cream sauce and warm prawn salsa.

Prawn orzo

We were satisfied with our mains, and so declined the offer of a dessert menu from our server. Little did we know, Blair had a sweet surprise in store for us anyway, and brought over a complimentary trio of truffles. Beautifully plated, my favourite was the almond-coated round, with the flavour and texture of the toasted nuts pairing well with the dark chocolate. Mack preferred the orange-flavoured truffle.

Trio of truffles

Our lunch at Madison’s Grill was a breath of fresh air, and left us both relaxed and ready to return to work. It’s a safe bet we will be back soon.

Madison’s Grill (in the Union Bank Inn)
10053 Jasper Avenue
(780) 401-2222

Caterer of Choice: Taste of India

A few weeks ago I started planning a retreat for our team, to take place at the peaceful Strathcona Wilderness Centre, situated just outside of Sherwood Park. As the SWC has an open policy when it comes to food, we had no limitations when it came to catering options. As it made the most geographic sense to choose a company based in Sherwood Park, after some research, we decided on Taste of India. Not only was their per person price reasonable, but before we made the final agreement, the owner of the establishment invited my coworker and I to sample their food – on the house (an $11.50 lunch buffet).

We planned our visit for a Friday afternoon, after viewing and finalizing the booking with the folks at the Wilderness Centre. The restaurant apparently used to be a combination Indian and Mexican eatery, but the latter half has since been divided and will reopen as a comedy club soon. Taste of India was bustling with patrons when we arrived, with a large number of them seeming to be regulars. The owner was a grand hostess, and seemed to be familiar with most of the customers – it made for a very comfortable, jovial atmosphere.

Interior (lovely display of bangles)

The array of dishes on the buffet looked promising, especially when we saw a number of the more popular trays being replenished on a regular basis. All of my favourites were there – butter chicken, mutter paneer, pakoras – and some dishes I was less familiar with – beef kofta being one of them. Though we skipped over the cold dishes for fear of not having enough room, a tossed hot dog salad seemed strangely out of place.

Buffet

Food, glorious food

The butter chicken was necessarily tender, coated with a richly addictive sauce at a spice level agreeable to my palate. The beef kofta, as it turned out, tasted remarkably similar to the Swedish meatballs at IKEA. A surprise turned out to be the mixed vegetables (which were to be included in our catering order), the peas and green beans still retaining their crispness in spite of being tossed with a mildly spicy sauce and forced to languish under heat lamps.

My plate

Service was also good, with our water glasses never reaching empty. And of course, having the meal comped was a nice gesture. Needless to say, the whole experience – the meal and the owner’s generosity – won us over.

Bell located at the exit – it was rung quite a few times during our visit!

The catered food was equally as good. All of the dishes arrived hot, and even with 35 hungry mouths to feed, some of our staff were even able to go back for seconds. The naan, in particular, was stellar, slightly charred in places, but distinctly chewy, perfect for scooping up sauce-drenched butter chicken and channa masala.

To end, just a few photos of the Strathcona Wilderness Centre – we were fortunate to have sunshine on Thursday, and I took advantage of the weather with a short lunch hour stroll. I’d like to return some time in the future to rent their snowshoes or cross country skis – it would be a great excuse to get away to the country again!

Trail

Ski tracks

Peace

Taste of India
6 Blackfoot Rd, Strathcona County
(780) 449-2794

Strathcona Wilderness Centre
52535 Range Road 212, Strathcona County
(780) 922-3939

Generous Portions: Viet Huong Noodle House

I’ve walked past Viet Huong Noodle House on 107 Avenue too many times to count, but never really had the desire to try it. Being just a stone’s throw away from my office, however, meant it was just a matter of time before I did.

I met up with Dickson for lunch there this week. First impressions were not great – between the turquoise linoleum floor and worn, mismatched furniture, it was clear the space needed a complete overhaul. The LCD television screen (streaming a Vietnamese music concert much too loudly) and fish tank full of radiant blood parrots did help brighten the space somewhat, but for the most part, the interior matched the sad state of exterior affairs.

The service was curt and brisk, but the food arrived promptly. Our dishes were ill-timed though, with our bowls of steaming pho arriving just moments after our appetizer was delivered. Also, after making a request for chopsticks, we were a bit taken aback when he grabbed two pairs out of a jar by the ends. Needless to say, some tea-disinfecting ensued.

The green onion cake was a good-sized dish, especially given the $3.95 price. Satisfyingly crispy, they weren’t nearly salty enough for me, but I’m finding that’s typical for my palate.

Green Onion Cakes

The pho, size-wise, reminded me a lot of Ninh Kieu – it seemed like a never-ending bowl! Moreover, both our servings included an extremely generous amount of beef, bucking the standard of exaggerating portion amounts with a thick wicket of rice noodles. The broth was good, not great (and dusted with just a wee bit of cilantro), but was on par with many other such restaurants in the city.

Rice Noodle Soup with Medium Beef and Beef Brisket ($7.50)

Beef Noodle Soup with Combination Beef ($7.95)

Given Viet Huong’s proximity to my office, there’s a good chance I’d return if the weather was a deterrent to the lengthier trek to Chinatown’s Pho Tau Bay. But as spring is just around the corner, I’d have to say brisk lunch hour walks are in my immediate future.

Viet Huong Noodle House
10117 107 Avenue
(780) 424-9910
Tuesday – Saturday 10am-9pm, Sunday 10am-7pm, closed Mondays

Artful Dining: ZINC

In spite of my criticisms of Downtown Dining Week, I had every intention of partaking in the food festival. While I do think the Downtown Business Association could do much to expand and better promote the event, the pre-fixe menus are still undoubtedly a great way to sample new (and revisit favourite) restaurants.

ZINC, the sparkly new restaurant in the beautiful Art Gallery of Alberta, topped my list of eateries I wanted to try, with their $50, 4-course menu highlighting four of the current exhibits seeming too good to pass up. I wasn’t sure what to expect – most of the chatter has been decidedly negative, though there have been some bright spots for the month-old restaurant. Needless to say, our expectations at the gate leaned to the low side of the spectrum approaching our dinner.

A week prior, I made a reservation online (nope, not on Open Table), noting down a request for a window seat, as well as listing the special occasion we were celebrating. Upon arrival, we were seated one table shy of a window, and at no point was our occasion acknowledged. While I had no issue with either of these things, if the restaurant has no intention of fulfilling seating requests or recognizing the reason for dining, they should simply take those categories off of the reservation system.

The view from our table (the two-top next to us was taken when we arrived)

During our preview tour of the AGA in January, we were privy to a sneak peek of ZINC. At that time, I already knew I loved the soaring ceiling, floor-to-ceiling windows, and the dramatic cobalt-blue bar. Sitting inside the restaurant, however, the echo-chamber effect of the high ceiling wasn’t conducive to an intimate conversation, particularly with an unnecessarily long table. The metallic strip around the edges of the tables and as a menu backing were nice touches though, reminding diners of the restaurant’s namesake.

Interior (the Douglas fir wall is another beautiful feature)

Mack

We were a bit apprehensive about the service we would receive at ZINC, but as it turned out, we needn’t have worried. Our waiter, Nick, was excellent, and though he looked familiar to us, we couldn’t quite place him. We eventually asked if he had worked anywhere else in Edmonton, and he told us the Wildflower Grill had been his previous post (he had served us one of our best meals there). Nick was particularly great at explaining the connection each of the DDW dishes had to the art exhibits – I’d recommend asking to be seated in his section if you are concerned about potential service issues!

ZINC menu

Like Wildflower, ZINC also serves an amuse bouche. Presented on an ice-cold spoon, we were treated to foie gras yogurt topped with a raspberry segment. It was not our cup of tea – the guttural richness was not pleasing to our palates.

Foie Gras Amuse Bouche

The bread course, however, was! Hot (and I mean hot) out of the oven, two beautiful buns were delivered, accompanied by herbed butter. Mack especially appreciates warm bread (always noting the dearth of restaurants that pay attention to this comforting detail).

Gloriously Warm Bread!

My appetizer was a duo of sardines: sardine paté and grilled marinated sardine filet, with sundried tomato, brioche bread, and fresh herb salad. Apparently related to Goya, this dish had the weakest connection to art – Nick explained that during the Peninsular War, Goya’s native country of Spain had an alliance with Portugal. As a result, Chef David Omar drew inspiration from Portuguese cuisine, which includes the use of sardines and sundried tomatoes. I had to applaud Chef Omar for the playful presentation though, with the upright placement of the sardine, and the spin on sardines on toast. It was my favourite aspect of the dish (the paté, like the foie gras, was too strong for me). The greens were light and offered a burst of freshness, dressed with a champagne vinaigrette.

Duo of Sardines

Mack had decided to order off the regular menu, and thoroughly enjoyed his first dish of pan-seared scallops ($18), with sweet potato and maple ginger purée, red radish, organic microgreens, glace viande and citrus foam. The presentation was beautiful, and he noted that the scallops were cooked perfectly.

Pan-Seared Scallops

My entree was a trio of house-made ravioli (inspired by Karsh’s portraits), and was the dish I had been looking forward to the most. Unfortunately, it wasn’t executed quite right. The squid-ink ravioli was supposed to burst with its stuffing of an egg yolk and goat cheese, but unfortunately, had been bathed too long. On the other hand, the oyster mushroom and ricotta ravioli had been undercooked, the pasta still bearing that telltale chewy firmness. Still, I liked the creativity behind each of the pasta rounds, with my favourite being the black ravioli and its salty filling.

Trio of Ravioli

Mack’s Spring Creek Ranch beef tenderloin entree ($42) was similarly uneven. The steak was inconsistently prepared, with only a part of it registering the requested medium rare (the rest was most definitely well done). Mack did like the flavour of the watercress mashed potatoes though.

Spring Creek Ranch Pan-Seared Beef Tenderloin

We shared my dessert, a three part affair of corn pudding, caramelized popcorn and wild boar bacon ice cream. The duo of Cardiff/Miller inspired this plate – with Miller’s birthplace of the farming community of Vegreville leading to the use of corn and bacon. We were also supposed to combine the flavours of the dessert (as the couple work together to complete their art installations). The silky corn pudding was our favourite, and Mack noted its flavour resemblance to rice pudding. The bacon ice cream, aside from the occasional piece of bacon as a reminder, wasn’t as flavourful as I would have liked.

Cardiff/Miller Dessert

The last course was a chocolate little dancer martini, which I let Mack take care of. The Degas connection was in the movement and swirl of the Baileys and Kahlua within the transparent house-infused vanilla vodka. Mack liked the chocolate syrup rim, and finished the drink without complaint.

Chocolate Little Dancer Martini

It seems some of the early issues at the restaurant may have resolved themselves with time, but not all of them. I hope the rest of the kitchen miscues are eliminated soon, as I am optimistic that ZINC could evolve into a great restaurant. I hear that Chef Omar is working closely with area producers to include even more local content on the menu – this, combined with the creativity he demonstrated with the Downtown Dining Week menu, leads me to believe that the best may be yet to come.

ZINC (inside the Art Gallery of Alberta)
2 Sir Winston Churchill Square
Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday 11am-2:30pm; Dinner: Tuesday-Wednesday 5-9pm, Thursday-Saturday 5-11pm; Brunch: Sunday 10am-2pm; closed Mondays

Chinese New Year Dinner: Shanghai Grill

For this Chinese New Year, my family opted to eat out, saving my mom some grief in the kitchen. My parents had tried Shanghai Grill a few months back with friends, and after a positive experience, wanted to take us there.

Mack and I met my family there on New Year’s Eve, but had to call my Dad to locate the restaurant. Tucked away in a warehouse/light industrial strip just off 111 Avenue, Shanghai Grill is easy to miss. However, the immediate benefit of such a building is high, lofty ceilings, which provided the eatery with a semblance of grandness, or at least the impression of breathing room between tables. Though I liked the furnishings (particularly the coated tabletops – a sleeker alternative to glass-topped tables), the wooden beams and columns were out of place for a non-steakhouse.

Interior

The menu at Shanghai Grill includes several Western favourites, but for the most part, skewed more traditional (on a related note, I had to laugh at the take-out menu, which featured only mainstream Western dishes). We were happy to let my parents take care of the ordering, particularly because they are usually able to strike a balance between interesting dishes and dishes that will placate my sisters (who, granted, are both less picky now than in their younger years).

Service was good, and our food arrived, rapid-fire, as tends to happen at Chinese, family-style restaurants. Though our table wasn’t quite as large as some of the others, a lazy Susan would have definitely been beneficial. My favourite of the dishes was the seafood sizzling rice ($13.95) served with puffed-rice squares, the warm gravy softening the textured rice to a satisfyingly chewy quality. The xiaolong bao ($7.95), filled with a hot soup, were also pretty good, but unfortunately, the soup ended up escaping before ending up in my bowl.

Seafood Sizzling Rice

Xiaolong Bao

The sweet and sour pork ($11.95) was cloyingly sweet, and we assured my Mum that hers was indeed better (their use of canned pineapple didn’t help matters either). The Shanghai combination soup, filled with bok choy, pork and bean curd, was filling, but we probably could have done without it – there was nothing memorable about it. The sweet and sour fish filet ($13.95) looked promising, and though I liked the silky filets of fish, the too-subtle flavour resulted in a just okay dish. Mack’s favourite dish was the Szechuan fried noodles ($10.95), with flecks of spicy red chillies throughout.

Sweet and Sour Pork

Shanghai Soup Combination

Sweet and Sour Fish Filet

Szechuan Fried Noodles

In recognition of Chinese New Year, we were offered small bites of nian gao (glutinous rice cake), a nice treat to end the meal. The strawberries (freeze-dried, perhaps?) provided an interesting spin on a traditional offering.

Nian Gao

As a whole, I had no complaints about the dinner. And with a clean and fresh environment with mostly solid offerings, I wouldn’t hesitate to come back.

Shanghai Grill
16336 111 Avenue
(780) 930-1828

Extreme Sticker Shock: Noodle Noodle

Two co-workers and I decided to indulge in a dim sum lunch last Friday to celebrate Chinese New Year. With only two options within reasonable walking distance for our one hour break, we chose Noodle Noodle over Urban China. Though I hadn’t been to Noodle Noodle in years, from what I remember, the prices weren’t egregious.

We arrived at the restaurant just after noon. It was pretty busy already, not unexpected for a Friday before a long weekend. We were quickly seated at a table by the door, and before long, were greeted by cart-directing servers.

As soon as our first dishes were marked on our tally sheet, we realized that the prices were way above average for dim sum – they ranged from $4.75 to $9.95! We were unfortunate enough to select a dish on the latter end of that scale (the ginger beef, primarily for one colleague who does not consume pork). As soon as the dish was priced my co-worker and I looked at each other and laughed at the absurd mark-up – it would be a painful meal.

Ginger Beef

Rice crepes, with either beef or shrimp? $6.50. Almond tofu? $5.95. BBQ pork buns the size of dumplings? $4.95. The quantity of food provided exacerbated our sticker shock as well – not only we were paying double for each dish, but in almost each case, the portion size was smaller than what we would find elsewhere.

Rice Crepes

 

 No joke, they were serving $10 dim sum dishes at Noodle Noodle

Good service was also something to be desired. After we told one waitress about our colleague’s non-pork diet, the next time she whizzed by, she did not bother to stop, and just commented in passing that there was nothing on her cart that we would want. Thankfully, the other servers were not as dismissive, but needless to say, we were not impressed.

Ellen and I “showing off” the BBQ pork buns

In terms of quality, the only dish that we were remotely happy with was the almond tofu. Lightly scented and accompanied by a decent amount of canned fruit, it provided a sweet end to an otherwise bitterly comical experience.

A serving of almond tofu

We all agreed in the end that our next dim sum trip would be in a vehicle.

Noodle Noodle
10008 106 Avenue
(780) 422-6862
Monday-Thursday 10am-10pm, Friday-Saturday 10am-11pm, Sundays & Holidays 10am-9:30pm