Portland: The Dinner Hour

There were an overwhelming number of eateries to choose from to fill our supper hours in Portland. While we were resigned to the fact that we wouldn’t be able to hit up every restaurant on our list, I think we managed to visit a good cross-section of establishments, from late-night lounges to supper clubs. Overall, we were impressed by the creativity and the quality exhibited by the chefs in PDX.

Saucebox

For a late-night bite, we wanted to stay close to our home base, so wandered over to Saucebox, a lounge a block away from our hotel.

It was absolutely hopping on a Thursday night, not a surprise when we realized, after flipping through five pages of cocktail options, that their specialty was drinks. Still, their Asian-inspired bites were intriguing enough for us to stay, and ordered several small plates to share.

Their beef potstickers were the star, pan-fried to a crackling crisp. The salted prawns were gorgeous, delivered on a slate board, heads on, over a bed of salt. The spring rolls (one of Mack’s favourite things), were unfortunately bland and forgettable.

Beef potstickers

Salted prawns

Simpatica Dining Hall

Primarily a catering outfit, Simpatica Dining Hall appealed to us because of their supper club concept offered on Fridays and Saturdays. With an ever-changing menu, a four-course meal could be had for under $40, and I liked the idea of communal dining.

I ended up confusing the Friday and Saturday dinner times, and we were a half hour late (it was a bit mortifying walking into the full dining room), but the staff were understanding. It was also great timing in the sense that we were seated just as the first course was being served!

The fried chicken appetizer was a strong way to start. We loved the curry flavour in the breading, and the side of cornmeal pancakes with a green tomato syrup was a fun alternative to the current trend of chicken and waffles.

Fried chicken and short stack

The salad with pickled grapes, shaved sheep’s milk cheese and a tomato vinaigrette was refreshing. The toasted pistachios were a nice touch.

Salad

The smoked pork chop with cider glaze was a mountain meant to be climbed – I don’t think I’ve ever encountered such a large serving of pork before! It was well prepared, moist all the way through, but needless to say I wasn’t able to finish it. The wilted chard could also have been cooked down more.

Smoked pork chop

After such a heavy entrée, a lighter dessert would have been appreciated, but those around the table with bigger appetites than me murmured their approval for the decadent pecan pie.

Pecan pie

Although the food and service was great (the kitchen was amazingly efficient – the courses just clipped along), the best thing about Simpatica was the experience of communal dining. Everyone else around the table happened to be from Portland (one couple was being treated to the meal as Simpatica was a candidate to cater their wedding), and when they found out Mack and I were tourists, they were eager to provide us with dining recommendations. No doubt Portlanders are proud of their food scene!

Pok Pok

Pok Pok is easily Portland’s most famous restaurant. Focusing on serving authentic Thai food, Chef Andy Ricker has been recognized with numerous awards, and has successfully exported the concept to New York. No question, it was number one on my list of establishments we had to visit, just to see what all the hype was about.

When we arrived, we had to wonder whether or not the dining district immediately around the establishment was built up before or after Pok Pok opened (including a late-night food pod across the street, featuring live music and a beer-dispensing truck!). Given their policy of no reservations for parties less than five, it would seem quite lucrative for peripheral restaurants to snap up customers who weren’t willing or able to wait.

Our own wait time numbered fifty minutes, probably not uncommon. But we probably should have been more vocal with the hostess, who seated two small parties before us, and never bothered to offer vacant bar seats to us. It wasn’t the best way to start our Pok Pok experience, but we hoped the food would make up for it.

The menu was unapologetically Thai – from the dish names listed to encouraging diners to share plates with one another. We ordered three dishes (to share, of course). The fried egg salad was a dish recommended by the Globe & Mail – but after trying it, I wondered why. Besides being deceivingly spicy, there was nothing that stood out about it.

The pork belly and shoulder curry was complex and well-balanced, with a nice back heat. The meat was fork tender, and our only quibble was being served the wrong side of rice (jasmine instead of coconut). Our favourite dish was the curried noodle soup, with a delicate house-pressed coconut milk base. I loved the added texture from the crispy noodles.

Dinner at Pok Pok

Service was okay, if a bit inconsistent and breezy. I can only imagine the pressure the servers are under, but everything about our meal felt perfunctory, and never hospitable. Although the food was enjoyable, the experience as a whole was underwhelming.

Produce Row Café

Too late we found out that Olympic Provisions was closed for dinner on Monday nights, so in desperation, we turned to our Frommers guide for a recommendation within walking distance. A few blocks away, we found Produce Row Café, a gastropub tucked in between light industrial buildings.

The interior was warm and inviting, and busier than we expected for such an unassuming storefront. We later discovered that we were right in the midst of happy hour, bursting with enticing drink and food specials. I can say that my fruity bramble (gin + blackberry syrup + lemon) was my favourite drink of the trip.

Mack relaxing at happy hour

Although the food wasn’t exceptional, the comforting dishes hit the spot, and our server was friendly and present. In the wake of the wavering experience at Pok Pok, it reminded us that it never is just about the food.

Corn dog with fries

French onion soup

Clyde Common

Clyde Common has a stellar reputation, and was recommended through a variety of channels, both personal and online. So it was a bit of a shock that it turned out to be our worst meal in recent memory.

We had to wonder if the couple seated next to us knew something we didn’t – they abruptly left after looking at the menu. But everything seemed promising – the beautiful room was anchored by a bar to one side, and a glowing open kitchen on the other. Communal tables made up most of the dining seats.

Interior

Service was brisk and indifferent, but unfortunately, that wasn’t the worst part. The appetizer was okay, but it would have been challenging for any chef to mess up a simple seasonal combination of grilled peaches and marinated tomatoes.

Marinated tomatoes and grilled peaches

My pig’s head ravioli was delivered a good five minutes before Mack’s – neither of us were sure why it wasn’t served alongside his dish. The pasta itself could have used that cooking time – it was tough, rubbery and difficult to eat. The filling was another story, with shards of cartilage sprinkled throughout. Although I recognize the nature of the dish I ordered, being very much a textural eater, the undercooked pasta and cartilage pieces were difficult to handle.

Pig’s head ravioli

Mack’s stuffed trout was also a pretty spectacular failure. The fish itself was cooked well, but that was the end of the accolades. We couldn’t figure out why a stuffed fish wasn’t deboned, as it was impossible to eat. Moreover, the already salty fish was made even more so with a layer of bacon.

Stuffed trout

We don’t have an explanation for why both dishes were so poorly executed, and a scan of reviews indicates an overwhelmingly positive response to Clyde Common. So although we have to assume our experience was an anomaly, we would never return.

Olympic Provisions

Our penultimate dinner brought us back to Olympic Provisions. We had first tasted their salami at a food festival, and knew from that sample that we had to visit the restaurant for a full charcuterie board (one of the “iconic” items on Easter’s list of must-have Portland dishes).

Interior

We loved the glow of the “meat” sign above the open kitchen. The adjacent dining space was dimly lit, but lined with shelves of wine and spirits, felt intimate and comfortable, like we were seated in a cozy den. The vibe was relaxed, but it was clear Olympic Provisions is serious about their meat.

MEAT!

Mack and I shared some cheeses and a chef’s choice board, featuring capicola, a pork and pistachio terrine, pork liver mousse, loukanika and finocchiona. The salami is the best I’ve ever tasted, with the Greek loukanika being my favourite. It had the perfect amount of salt, a great mouth feel, and I loved the cumin flavour. We ended up taking some salami home with us, probably rationing the precious meat for a little too long. I know what I’m filling my bag with the next time we’re down in Portland!

Chef’s choice board

Cheeses

Our server was pleasant and knowledgeable, and we never felt rushed, even as we were approaching their closing hour. I would definitely recommend Olympic Provisions to those visiting Portland.

Portland: On the Road

Though we spent the majority of our vacation in Portland in the city proper, we did rent a vehicle one day to explore the area immediately outside PDX.

St. John’s

This first stop is a bit misleading, as St. John’s is a neighbourhood in Portland, and we took the bus to get there. However, it was the furthest outside of the city centre that we reached during that vacation, and truth be told, St. John’s seemed more like a separate town as opposed to a suburb.

The lure to St. John’s was the second annual River Fest, which I spotted on a tourism website that same week. It seemed like a good excuse to check out an area of Portland we hadn’t heard much about before. It took us an hour to reach St. John’s via public transportation, and when we did, it wasn’t entirely evident where the festivities were located.

We eventually made our way to the banks of the river (after passing by numerous film trailers parked in preparation for the shooting of a Grimm episode), and found not a rousing festival scene, but a small collection of tents. River Fest turned out to be geared mostly towards families with small children (based upon the entertainers that were seeking an audience).

River Fest

Regardless, it was still a good opportunity to walk along the shores of the Willamette. It was more industrial than picturesque, with numerous factories dotting both sides of the water, but the best discovery was St. John’s Bridge.

St. John’s Bridge

The only suspension bridge in the Willamette Valley, the Cathedral-like appearance of the towers made it easily my favourite of Portland’s bridges.

From Cathedral Park

A note of caution for pedestrians, however – the bridge is much better viewed from below than it is from above – we crossed it and found it a rather dangerous walk, given the narrow sidewalk, 35 mile an hour traffic and four lanes of traffic. Guardrails would be highly recommended for city officials to look into!

On the bridge

Before returning to downtown Portland, we did some shopping in St. John’s main street. The stores were charming, and included antique and vintage shops, gift stores, and a specialty food shop.

If you have some extra time in Portland, I would highly recommend spending a half day in this neighbourhood!

Vista House

With the vehicle, our first stop was Vista House. Located on the Colombia River gorge, it feels like it is on the edge of the world.

Vista House

The placement of Vista House (intended to be a rest stop for those making their way down the Colombia River Highway), takes full advantage of the valley and waterway views.

View of the Gorge

Wahkeena and Multnomah Falls

Down the tree-lined Oregon byway, scenic with views of the Colombia River, we first stopped at Wahkeena Falls. It was a good build up for the waterfall to come, smaller but refreshingly misty.

Wahkeena Falls

Further down the road, the picturesque Multnomah Falls awaited us. The highest year-round waterfall in North America, it was especially striking because of a bridge spanning the lower section of the falls.

Multnomah Falls

Multnomah in miniature

Multnomah must be one of the most photographed sites in all of Oregon. We even saw one tourist recording a video on his iPad of all things as he hiked the trail up to the bridge.

At the Falls

Hood River

Our next stop was the town of Hood River, just in time for a late lunch.

Hood River

We chose the pub run by Full Sail Brewery, an independent business that celebrated 25 years of operation in 2012. It was a gorgeous patio day, so we sat outside, basking in a view of the River.

Patio day!

Instead of the usual cod, haddock or even halibut, the pub used salmon for their fish and chips and fish sandwiches. We opted for an order of each. Their portions were beyond generous (neither of us were able to finish our plates), though the fish and chips were the better choice – it was difficult to eat the sandwich topped with such a watery slaw.

Fish and chips

Fish sandwich

Cascade Cliffs and Cathedral Ridge Wineries

One of the reasons we wanted to get outside of Portland was to visit some wineries. Cascade Cliffs was identified as a winery located in downtown Hood River, so we were initially confused as to where this urban winery could be found. It turned out not to be field of vines, but a tasting room operated by the winery.

The Cascade Cliffs line-up

The map as such was a bit misleading (as was my understanding between that a “winery” is not synonymous with “vineyard”), but Mack commented that this establishment was a good option for those who couldn’t make it out to the winery itself.

We took home a bottle of blended reds, and left Hood River in search of an actual winery. As it was early in the evening, many of the wineries we passed on our way back to Portland were already closed for the day. We managed to find one that was still open – Cathedral Ridge.

Cathedral Ridge proudly identified an award they were recognized with in 2007, which may not have been a good sign for more recent achievements. It was quiet inside the tasting room/ shop, but the clerk was nice enough, if seemingly rote in her interactions.

She told us that the majority of the vines actually weren’t planted at that location, but were situated near The Dalles, further east. It was a bit of a letdown, though we still took the opportunity to pick up a souvenir bottle and wander what vines were located on-site. The moral of the story: make sure you plan out a sure-fire route, with enough time to explore!

Some of the vines at Cathedral Ridge

Although time is a luxury on any vacation, I was glad we took the better part of a day to see what was outside Portland.

Portland: Morning Meals

Most mornings in Portland, Mack and I did not indulge in full meals. This isn’t unlike our usual breakfasts while at home – we opt to have more substantial plates at lunch and dinner. This allowed us to explore some of Portland’s best coffee houses, many which were located within walking distance of our hotel. Of course, on the weekend, we did also manage to fit in a few brunches!

Public Domain

Just down the street from our hotel, Public Domain was our first coffee stop. Sleek and modern, I really liked their open concept that emphasized the coffee bar. Seating wasn’t abundant, but it seemed like most took their drinks elsewhere.

Interior

Public Domain roasts their own coffee, which we enjoyed alongside a delicious cheddar bacon scone. We also took home a bag of their coffee for at-home consumption – always a great takeaway souvenir!

Counter seating

Barista

Barista’s downtown location was even smaller than Public Domain. And instead of offering their own line of coffee, they served several varieties roasted by different companies, the majority also based in Portland, including Stumptown, Counter Culture and Heart.

Interior

Barista only offered espresso and brewed coffee, and of the latter, one could choose the preparation method: French press, pour over or iced, with a different bean used in each (talk about attention to detail!). We ended up with a pour-over sourced from Kenya, roasted by San Francisco-based Sight Glass.

Beans!

Stumptown Coffee Roasters

Of all the coffee houses, we expected the most from Stumptown. It is easily the most well-known, and many of Portland’s restaurants serve their line of roasted coffees. We ended up in their Old Town location towards the end of our trip.

I haven’t seen Portlandia, but I would be shocked if the show didn’t poke fun at the masses of Mac users who set up for the day in Stumptown. It was a bit comical that the first image we were confronted with was a single row of thirty-somethings all typing away.

Interior

The cafe is equipped with a great up-to-date collection of specialty magazines, with multiple copies of each. We spent a bit of time unwinding there with our iced coffees (brewed to perfection), but we have to mention that the shop could have used a bit more care. Dust bunnies were rampant, and their bathrooms were in desperate need of attention. Given their reputation, our experience as a whole didn’t live up to expectations – it never is just about the food alone!

Window seat

Mother’s Bistro

Mother’s Bistro seemed to be a Portland institution. With a cookbook of recipes, and nary a time of day where they aren’t packed, it seemed like a good brunch choice.

Though the dining room seemed to be full to the brim, we were surprisingly seated within five minutes. I loved the chandelier light fixtures and the elegantly framed mirrors that added a touch of class to the room. But it wasn’t all glamour – the message on the back of the mugs reminded us to “call your mother”.

Interior

That said, my lasting memory of Mother’s isn’t of the decor or the service (which was friendly, but brisk) – instead, I have stomach pains when I think back to the portion sizes. Each plate, priced at under $10, could have easily fed two people! My apple-sausage scramble and Mack’s stuffed fritatta utterly defeated each of us.

Apple-sausage scramble

Stuffed frittata (the size of a dinner plate!)

Bijou Cafe

On our last day in Portland, we elected to stick close to our hotel, to make sure we wouldn’t be late for our departure. Bijou Cafe fit the bill, located only a few blocks away from our hotel, and had a reputation for a solid brunch featuring locally-sourced ingredients.

The interior was pretty basic, but was without pretention. And after the charming but cramped quarters of Mother’s, we appreciated the room to breathe.

Interior

My French toast was a bit too eggy for my taste, and after a bite of Mack’s chanterelle and gruyere-laced omlette, we knew his plate won the dish wars at our table.

French toast

Seasonal omelette (we loved that baguette was a bread option)

Service was personable and friendly, and the coffee refills kept coming. For a chill brunch, I would have no qualms recommending Bijou Cafe to visitors.

Portland: Tourist Trappings

Food trucks were a must-visit for us, but so were a few other things while we were in Portland – I’m sure the following destinations are on the list for most tourists in the city!

Hotel Vintage Plaza

Though this wasn’t exactly a “destination”, it was our first vacation accommodation that constituted a splurge, so it might be worth noting for those planning a trip down.

A few years ago, an acquaintance recommended the Kimpton chain to us when they found out we would be travelling to San Francisco. We loved the hotel so much that we looked forward to our next opportunity to stay at a Kimpton property. That chance came up in Portland, and we chose the Hotel Vintage Plaza (the most inexpensive of their three Portland hotels). We decided to book one of their special Starlight rooms on top of that, the only time we’ve ever gone above a standard room.

Starlight room

The room had a lovely bank of windows, and made our restful evenings easy to fall into. Though of course true starlight was out of our reach, being situated in the downtown core and all, we were able to leave the blinds up for views of the surrounding buildings and nearby bridges.

Kimpton is also known for their hosted wine hours, where wine and nibbles are available to guests and encourage them to mix and mingle in the lobby. Although we didn’t take part every evening, it was a particularly welcome sight on our first night in Portland.

Wine hour

Secrets of Portlandia

We love learning about the cities we visit from locals themselves, and find that walking tours are not only a means to do that, but they also help us situate ourselves towards the beginning of our trip. We found Erik’s Secrets of Portlandia free walking tour advertised online, and joined it on our second day in Portland.

Portlandia

It was a pleasant introduction to the city, and can be best described as part history and part entertainment, with Erik’s penchant for cheesy jokes a common thread throughout.

Our tour guide Erik

We were told how Portland was nearly called Boston, Oregon instead, as the name was ultimately decided by the flip of a coin by the two founding friends. Another highlight was also learning the background behind the Benson Bubblers, the ubiquitous bronze fountains that can be found all over downtown. It turns out they were installed as a means of dissuading lumber workers from imbibing at local pubs over the lunch hour. The water is constantly recycled, so yes, it was safe to take a drink!

Mack drinks from a Benson Bubbler

We also learned about the Shanghai Tunnels that ran underneath some of the bars in Old Town, used to drop workers from the pub to the tunnels below. These unfortunate men were then kidnapped for the journey over the Pacific. I recall reading about other tours that explore parts of the tunnels, but just hearing about it was enough for me!

Don’t get Shanghai’d

I’d highly recommend Erik’s tour – it was a great way to get to know the city, and have fun in the process.

Voodoo Doughnuts

The Secrets of Portlandia tour ended at the doorstep of a Portland institution, Voodoo Doughnuts. Unlike Tim Horton’s (though they are also open 24 hours a day), Voodoo bakes their doughnuts fresh every day, though what they are famous for are their unique varieties, from cereal to Tang to (we were told) Pepto Bismol. We wanted to find out what the hype was about.

The line-up

The crazy menu

A colourful cake doughnut could have been a rather plain treat, but turned out to be one of the best cake doughnuts I’d ever had. Mack enjoyed his Portland Cream as well. The namesake Voodoo Doll, baked in the shape of a voodoo doll, came complete with several pretzel sticks to – you guessed it – stab the jelly-filled doughnut to your heart’s content. One would be hard pressed to find a more creatively designed doughnut!

Doughnuts

Though I’m not sure I’d wait any more than ten to fifteen minutes for a doughnut, we could see why Voodoo is consistently touted as a tourist magnet.

Powell’s Books

Another Portland institution, Powell’s Books, was a reminder than in some places, independent bookstores are alive and thriving.

Rooms by colour

We visited several of their shops over the course of a week, but their main location, Powell’s City of Books, occupies a full city block. Their selection is second to none, as they claim to be the world’s largest new and independent bookstore, though it was overwhelming to browse every colour-coded floor in one visit.

More books than one could ever explore

We made sure to come back more than once, easy for us given our hotel was in easy walking distance!

Loved this urban homesteading end display

Ground Kontrol Classic Arcade

In Old Town/Chinatown, we played to our heart’s content at the Ground Kontrol Classic Arcade. Most games were just 25 or 50 cents, so it was a fun and inexpensive way to relieve some of our favourite childhood video game characters.

Mario Brothers!

They had a great selection of pinball machines too!

Mack takes his games seriously

Pittock Mansion

Google Maps is deceiving sometimes. Though it indicated that the nearest bus stop was relatively close to Pittock Mansion, our destination, it turned out to be at the bottom of a very steep road that wound its way up the hill.

Deceiving sign

The mansion originally belonged to Henry Pittock, a newspaper publisher, and was built in 1909. With 22 rooms and a vantage point that including views of the Willamette and Columbia Rivers, the Pittock Mansion was a testament to their wealth and luxury.

Pittock Mansion

It was neat to see an elaborate shower of the day, with knobs that lined three sides, and a walk-in cold room with double-glazed windows a thick door.

Shower

Gorgeous library

Loved that there was a toy sausage maker!

In the fisheye mirror

As a tourist destination though, I have to say we enjoyed the walk from Pittock Mansion through Forest and Washington Parks more than visiting the house itself. So unless you have a lot of time to kill, I’d recommend skipping Pittock in favour of wandering the trails nearby.

Bridgeport Brewpub

Portland has over 30 microbreweries, so it seemed necessary to visit at least one of them. We chose the BridgePort Brewpub, which claims to be the oldest craft brewery in Oregon, stopping by for a late lunch one afternoon.

BridgePort Brewpub

The pub was divided into several rooms, including what looked to be a more polished wine bar-type space. More unique than that, however, was that a live streetcar ticker had actually been installed inside the bar – talk about making it seamless for those who’ve imbibed to use public transit!

To transit, to transit

Mack enjoyed their beer, but the food was nothing particularly special. The tomato bisque was all right, albeit a bit chunky for my taste, while the mac and cheese (topped with kettle chips!) could have used a bit more béchamel sauce.

Cheers!

Tomato bisque

Mac and cheese

Portland By Bike – Mississippi Avenue

As riding the subway in New York or London is a must, so is exploring Portland by bicycles. It was rated America’s most bicycle-friendly city by Bicycling magazine, and 6% of all trips to work are done by bike.

The bicycle infrastructure was visible as soon as we arrived. At their airport, there were signs directing arrival traffic to a bike assembly station. Bike lanes are visible all over the city (especially on main arterial roads – the same paths that major transit routes travel), and bike racks were omnipresent.

Indoor bike rack

And then there were the cyclists themselves. A critical mass is important, not only for drivers to take note of cyclists, but also for me, a novel cyclist, to feel safe. Although we do encounter cyclists in Edmonton, in Portland, they were whizzing by us at all times of day.

Critical mass

Towards the end of our trip, we rented bikes so we could experience the bike culture first hand. Pedal Bike Tours offered bicycle rentals for $35 per day (including a bike lock and helmet). It was on the pricey side, but allowed us to explore the city on two wheels, at least for the day. The company also had a great map of bike lanes crossed with their tour guides’ favourite spots in the city.

Scrutinizing another map

Earlier in the week, we had passed what looked to be a cool neighbourhood while on the bus, so chose to head back to the Mississippi Avenue, which was a 25 minute bike ride from downtown. Mack had been ribbing me a bit for being afraid to ride on the roads, but I have to say that cycling in a dedicated bike lane made a huge difference for my confidence level. I still had to be cognizant of vehicles turning right, or cars entering the lane from being parked at the curb, but it did feel like drivers knew to watch for cyclists. Other more experienced cyclists we encountered were also quite patient with me, calling out “to your left” prior to passing me in the lane.

Getting used to my wheels

The advantage of a bike, of course, is that one can cover more ground in less time than as a pedestrian, and without being at the mercy of an unknown bus schedule. It also allowed us to explore parts of the city at our leisure. Case in point – we locked up in an area a few blocks away from Mississippi Avenue, lured by unique independent shops (including a vintage dress shop in a converted double decker bus) – and ended up stumbling across Tasty N Sons, one of the most talked about restaurants at that time. We stayed for lunch, and it ended up being my favourite restaurant experience in Portland.

Double decker clothing shop

I loved the worldly brunch menu, and the vibe of the open kitchen and friendly staff. We sat at the bar, which was a great vantage point to watch the cooks at work.

At the counter

My Burmese pork stew was delicious, a lovely combination of spicy and sweet flavours, with tender pork and a fried egg served over short grain rice. Mack similarly loved his barbecue chicken hash, ablaze with Southern spices to awake the palate.

Burmese pork stew

Barbecue chicken hash

I know part of the reason the meal was memorable was due to the fact that it felt like we “earned it” through physical activity, as well as because we stumbled upon it, all because we were on a bicycle.

Waterfront cycling

Over on Mississippi Avenue, we did some window shopping. The neighbourhood offered a great mix of retail and food and drink establishments, including a food cart pod. A few of the highlights included an amazing taxidermy shop, a store that sold nothing but light bulbs, a garden centre with its own outdoor chicken coop, and The Meadow, salt expert Mark Bitterman’s exquisite shop that peddles salt, fine chocolates, and even farm fresh eggs at 45cents a pop!

Light bulbs galore

Chicken coop!

Inside The Meadow

The salt wall at The Meadow

We’d heard many good things about Por Que No? a popular taqueria. Most of its seating could be considered al fresco dining – some covered, but most occupied sidewalk territory. Mack was a little peeved that they ID’d us, but I suppose we should have taken that as a compliment.

Por Que No?

We snacked on two small tacos, and could see what the hype was all about. At $2.50 a taco, the food was dirt cheap, but didn’t taste like that – the meat was falling apart tender, set upon house-made tortillas. Alongside the sangria, it was a lovely way to enjoy the sunshine on a beautiful day.

Cool drink for a hot day

Tacos

For dessert, we tried ice cream from Ruby Jewel. Their seasonal Oregon strawberry and honey lavender flavours were delectable.

Ice cream!

Mack enjoys his ice cream

Although I am still hesitant about cycling in Edmonton (beyond leisure purposes), I really enjoyed the opportunity to explore what it is like in a bike-friendly city. I would encourage anyone heading to Portland to plan for some time on two wheels!

Portland: To Market, To Market

Whenever we’re travelling, we make it a point to visit the city’s markets – they are not only great places to shop for memorable souvenirs (edible or otherwise), but it is also a wonderful opportunity to learn about the range of produce that can be grown, and the unique artisans and artists that call that city home. Things were no different when we vacationed in Portland.

Farmers’ Market @ Portland State University

I had been looking forward to visiting the Portland Farmers’ Market located at Portland State University since we arrived. It was easily among the first things to go on our itinerary, and with over 200 food vendors, we knew we would need a bit of time to explore the grounds.

Portland Farmers’ Market

Tempting

It was a beautiful location to start with, the paths lined with mature trees. Vehicle access was limited (as it is on our own campus), so it made the shopping experience even more pleasant.

I loved the trees

Mack enjoyed the didgeridoo

Peppers being roasted on site

We started our visit off with breakfast at Pine State Biscuits, an institution in Portland (I remember Filistix’s first What the Truck?! menu featured a Pine State-inspired dish). They had quite the set-up for a food vendor, complete with a griddle and an oven (they had to keep those biscuits warm somehow!).

Pine State Biscuits

Each oversized biscuit was a buttery indulgence, flaky and perfectly soft on the inside. The additional cheese and bacon was probably overkill at that point, but I can’t say we didn’t enjoy every calorie.

Bacon and cheese biscuit sandwich

Satiated, we joined the throngs in exploring aisle after aisle of harvest goodness. Mack got a little sick of me fawning over all of the produce, but it seemed around every corner, there was another gorgeous display of heirloom tomatoes, greens, or fruit.

Fresh collard greens!

Gorgeous squash

Artichokes

Many varieties of apples I’ve never encountered before (including a sweet red-fleshed one)

Ginger

I heart heirloom tomatoes

Given the vast majority of vendors seemed to offer fresh produce (instead of prepared food), aesthetics were even more important, as a means to lure customers in and away from the competition. As a result, vendors used quantities and colours to their advantage, and I have to say, it was even harder for me to look and not buy everything around me!

More greens than we could handle

Tomatoes

So much colour

More tomatoes

In addition to the vendors, the Farmers’ Market had organized cooking demos, spread throughout the day, and had a “veggie valet” as an option (something that has been employed by the City Market for the last few years).

Chef in the market

If you’re visiting Portland, the PSU market is a must!

Portland Saturday Market

The farmers’ market at PSU did not feature any non-food vendors, so for our arts and crafts fix, we headed over to the Portland Saturday Market immediately after.

Portland Saturday Market

Located under the Burnside Bridge in Old Town, the market looked like tourist central, with attention-grabbing buskers and summer fair food stands vying for our attention in and amongst the great variety of jewellery, paintings and other handicrafts available for sale.

Busy place

It was certainly a festive atmosphere, and a great place to browse. I ended up with a beautiful acid-etched necklace from Heartstrings Studio.

Portland Farmers’ Market @ Pioneer Courthouse Square

Unlike Edmonton’s farmers’ markets, which are all individually-run, the Portland Farmers’ Market runs six different markets that take place in the urban core (not all of the area’s markets, but a significant number). We had the chance to visit a smaller collection of vendors run by the Portland Farmers’ Market at Pioneer Courthouse Square on Mondays from June to September.

Monday farmers’ market

The hours of 10am-2pm seemed a bit unusual to us, as only those who worked in the immediate area would be able to partake, but perhaps that was their target demographic after all.

Vendors

It was a modest market to be sure, but with several produce and meat vendors on hand, staples were well covered. We were also happy to see Olympic Provisions on hand again – we would never turn down an opportunity to sample their salumi!

“Meat Here”

There were also quite a few hot food vendors, so later that day, we were certain the business crowd would be descending to take advantage of the al fresco lunch possibility.

The markets all provided a peek into Portland’s agricultural and creative wealth. Make sure to check them out if you have a chance!

Portland: Foodie Happenstance

Though we had planned to vacation in Portland during the fall, it was simply a happy coincidence that our trip happened to coincide with some great food-related events.

An Evening with Mark Bittman

Feast Portland: A Celebration of Oregon Bounty, was a four day festival in September highlighting the chefs, producers and food artisans in the state. We weren’t able to take in all that many events (it would have busted our food budget for the entire trip), but we prioritized and made it to three.

The first was an Evening with Mark Bittman, where he would be delivering a talk titled “The Future of Food”. I’ve been following Bittman’s writing and cooking his recipes for a few years now, so it was neat to be able to hear him speak in person.

Waiting for Mark Bittman

The Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall was packed, everyone eager to hear the New York Times columnist take on the current state of food in America. Without question, Bittman was preaching to the choir (and really, if you’ve read Food Matters, there wasn’t anything groundbreaking to add), but I still appreciated his passion on the subject. The one stat that stuck with me was that only 1/4 meals eaten in the US contains a fruit or vegetable (shockingly, that stat would be 1/5, but the perfunctory piece of lettuce on a burger counts). He also talked about the importance of the upcoming soda tax vote in Richmond, California, as it had the possibility, if passed, of rippling outward (unfortunately, the measure wasn’t passed – you can congratulate the soft drink lobby for their victory there).

Oregon Grand Bounty Tasting

I was a little heartbroken that tickets for the Feast Night Market were sold out by the time I got around to the website, so the Oregon Grand Bounty Tasting was a bit of a consolation prize. The $60 tickets set a level of expectation, but we were in the dark as to how the event would unfold, given there wasn’t much information available. We should have known better – though this was the first Feast festival in Portland, it followed a successful template replicated in other cities like New York, so there was little chance of anything but an amazing event to anticipate.

The organizers had fenced off Pioneer Courthouse Square for a few days in preparation, so we were eager to see what was behind the blacked-out walls. Turns out, the event was true to its name – it really did showcase the bounty offered by the state.

How do you like ‘dem onions?

We initially didn’t think the Square would be big enough to hold the hundreds of people streaming in, but the organizers did an excellent job of using all built-in tiers to their advantage. Higher-end wine tastings were offered on the terrace, while the majority of food and libations samples were distributed in a massive tent on the ground level. Best of all, a cooking stage had been set up facing the outdoor amphitheatre.

Inside the tasting tent

Cooking stage

We learned about some great locally-produced products, from cheeses and baked goods to seafood. Notably, we were introduced to Jacobsen Salt (the first locally-mined Oregon salt), Olympic Provisions (mind-blowing salami), and Salt & Straw ice cream. With the overwhelming number of producers present, it would have been helpful to have a comprehensive list of all of the vendors – instead, we had to rely on memory and pictures to remember which products we wanted to source out after the event.

Olympic Provisions

Cheese

Baked treats

Crab

Hot Lips soda

Even Stumptown Coffee was represented!

In between tastes, we made sure to check out Chris Consentino’s demonstration. We had stopped by his Boccalone outlet in the Ferry Market while in San Francisco, though he is probably more well-known for his restaurant Incanto, and appearances on a variety of Food Network shows. Charismatic and funny, he put together a very interesting dish featuring foie gras and pine branches.

Chef Consentino on stage with Bon Appetit Editor in Chief Adam Rapoport

Though I don’t think we were able to sample $60 worth of product, we were more than satisfied with the variety of food and drink, and the overall experience of the Bounty. Bravo to the organizers!

Feast Speaker Series

Our final Feast event was a Speaker Series entitled “The Global Local: Re-imaging Food Cultures” at the Gerdling Theatre. Many of the speakers had come from out of state, which provided us with the opportunity to hear from some of the current movers and shakers in the American culinary world.

Music

The event as a whole was impressively well thought out and organized. A folk band in the lobby set the tone as we walked in, while at intermission, identical food stations spread throughout the two levels were ready and waiting to dish out samples to the hungry audience (it helps when Whole Foods is a sponsor, but they alone couldn’t account for the incredible efficiency of the set-up).

Theatre lobby

The lecture portion itself was also nicely done. The ten speakers were interspersed with brief video “field dispatches” that helped provide the audience with a visual context of the Oregon agricultural layout. Even the time keeper was thoughtfully chosen – a lone guitarist sitting just off the stage would start lightly strumming to gently remind speakers that their time was up.

In terms of content, because of our tourist status, we would have loved to hear more about Portland’s food scene specifically (one of the questions in the promotional material that got us hooked was, “How has Portland become the talk of the American food scene?”), but I’m sure locals thirsted for more national stories.

Highlights for me included Portland restaurant critic Karen Brooks. She distributed three small tastes (a piece of chocolate and a coffee bean among them), wrapped up in a small canvas bag for each audience member. She then crafted a wonderful communal experience as she described what each of the foodstuffs meant to her, and invited all of us to enjoy each item together. It was an effective way of driving home her core idea that “food is trust” – each of us was intimately connected to the artisan producer that crafted the product.

Chef Sean Brock’s discussion about the Charleston pantry seemed a little out of place, but it was interesting to hear his take on a popular rice-based Southern dish, hoppin’ john, that he serves at his restaurant. It was especially interesting because South Carolina has only recently started to grow rice again. Brock shared, “story tastes good.”

Francis Lam interviews Chef Brock

Chef Gabrielle Hamilton, of the famed NYC restaurant Prune, was charmingly blunt about locavorism. Eating local, she said, was unremarkable because it was simply how she grew up.

Lucky Peach Editor in Chief Chris Ying also brought down the house with his tongue-in-cheek takedown of Yelp reviews.

Chris Ying deduces the true identity of a Yelp poster

Reflection about how, what and why we eat what we do in the context of the landscape and culture is fascinating to me, so I thought it was a valuable learning experience. I hope Edmonton can replicate this (on a smaller scale, of course) someday!

Meeting The Wednesday Chef

I’ve been reading Luisa Weiss’s blog, The Wednesday Chef, for a few years now. While some of the recipes she captured caught my eye, it was the window into her life that kept me coming back. When it was announced that Luisa would be releasing a memoir, I knew I would pick it up – I wanted to learn more about her story, and of course, glean a few more of her recipes.

My Berlin Kitchen maybe didn’t flow as well as I wanted it to (many of the chapters seemed to be built around specific recipes, which works as individual blog entries, but not as well in a novel format), but Luisa’s elegant prose and ability to connect with the reader still made it an enjoyable read. So when I found out Luisa would happen to be in Portland conducting a reading and book signing at Powell’s the week we were in town, I knew I had to be there!

Reading from My Berlin Kitchen

She was as sweet and articulate in person as you would expect, and seemed very genuine. The Q & A with the audience surprisingly focused more on her life and thoughts about Berlin; I really thought there would be more blog-related questions. I asked her how she feels her blog has changed over the years – she responded that it has become more personal, with people relating to her experiences.

With Luisa!

You never know what food-related events will crop up in Portland!

Portland: A City of Parks and Public Spaces

Though I did a lot of reading and research about Portland prior to our trip, the vast number and variety of public parks and green spaces was not obvious to me until we started to explore the city in person. Especially downtown, it seemed as if we came across another park or public space every few blocks! In that way, Portland was very welcoming to a weary tourist – we were always within stumbling distance of a beautiful rest stop.

Pioneer Courthouse Square

Pioneer Courthouse Square is described as “Portland’s living room”. For a city of their size (metro 2.2 million), it actually was quite small, about half the size of Edmonton’s Churchill Square. But it is constructed in a similar way, amphitheatre-style stairs, a water feature, an on-site cafe, and a tourist information centre (whereas we have a ticket office/souvenir shop). We loved the story of how the Square came to be: citizens, adamant that the design of the square remain open and publically accessible, rallied and contributed to the space, one brick at a time. Ironically, we were told that the park is actually closed for ticketed functions for much of the summer months (as it was when we were visiting).

Pioneer Courthouse Square

Still, the history of the Square speaks to the progressive nature of Portland as a whole, and their appetite to preserve and protect public spaces.

The block or so around the Pioneer Courthouse itself also features decorative fountains, and several different bronze wildlife statues. Mack decided to befriend one of them.

Being one with the otter

Keller Fountain Park

Keller Fountain Park, also downtown, was not far from Portland State University (the site of their huge Saturday Farmers’ Market). Less a park than a massive water feature, it still provided a picturesque escape in the middle of the city – there’s something about the sound of flowing water that is naturally soothing.

Keller Fountain Park

I will say that parts of the fountain itself had the unfortunate odour of urine, but when we made our way to the sweet spot of the fountain where a platform enables you to stand behind the curtain of water, it was pretty magical.

Behind the falls

Jamison Square

The Pearl District may be more well known for its retail and hospitality sides, but we stumbled across two of its park gems. We learned later that all water features in Portland’s parks are chlorinated, making them built-in play features for children, seamlessly integrated into the neighbourhood landscape. Jamison Square in the Pearl was thus a family attraction, even on that particularly overcast day.

Jamison Square

Tanner Springs Park

Tanner Springs Park was even more interesting, created out of reclaimed industrial land. Designers wanted to return the area to its natural wetlands environment, but also incorporated functional seating features into the park.

Tanner Springs Park

To us, being in the park took us out of the urban landscape, as the space promoted quiet reflection and a sense of calm.

Director Park

Director Park, about a block away from Pioneer Square, reminded us of a smaller, more functional Churchill Square. In one section was an operational water feature (chlorinated, of course for spray park fun), and on the other, scattered patio sets. A glass canopy provided some sheltered seating next to a small cafe, which seemed more successful at taking advantage of its prime location than Edmonton’s Three Bananas equivalent.

Director Park

Mill Ends Park

Of course, a discussion about Portland’s parks must include Mill Ends Park, which has the distinction of being the world’s smallest park, according to the Guinness Book of Records. It is located along a median between two streets.

Mill Ends Park

The story of how the park came to be (a journalist created mythology that the weed-run hole was actually the home of a leprechaun) is actually more interesting than the park itself, though given Portland’s penchant for being “weird”, it fits right into the city.

Forest and Washington Parks

Prior to arriving in Portland, we knew about their biking opportunities, but had no idea there were extensive hiking options until we came across Forest and Washington Parks. They feature over 24 kilometres of hiking trails, and covers over 400 acres of land.

In Forest Park

After visiting Pittock Mansion, we decided to walk to the International Rose Test Garden. Google Maps indicated it was a 30 minute distance, but that would only have been possible if a direct route existed. Instead, we followed the Wildwood Trail, which took about an hour.

Wildwood Trail

It was an absolutely rejuvenating walk, and made us feel like we had travelled far from the city, while in reality, we were still in the thick of it. The trails were peaceful, and we only ran into the occasional dog walker, so it was easy to feel like we were the only ones in the park.

Surrounded by nature

The Hoyt Arboretum is one of the features of Washington Park, a living museum of trees. Every now and then we would come across a small plaque denoting the name of a tree species. It turns out schools groups use the arboretum as a teaching centre; what a natural way for children to learn more about the great outdoors.

In the Hoyt Arboretum

We made it!

International Rose Test Garden

The most visually stunning park that we visited was without a doubt the International Rose Test Garden. Over 7,000 plants representing over 500 varieties are spread out over the 4.5 acre garden. Best of all, admission is free!

International Rose Test Garden

The flowers bloom from about April to October, and though we were visiting towards the end of September, most of the vines were still bursting with blossoms. The fragrance in the air was almost overwhelming, as we made our way through thicket after thicket of roses.

Roses

There are numerous benches and water features placed around the greenery to encourage visitors to linger and contemplate.

Walking the paths

Mack loves those bronze statues

The garden is also host to numerous outdoor events, as they have an amazing amphitheatre built into the side of a grassy hill.

Gorgeous outdoor amphitheatre

If you’re ever in Portland during the rose season, this is one attraction you can’t pass up – the pictures don’t do the garden justice.

More roses

Peninsula Park Rose Garden

Portland is also known as the “City of Roses” – that nickname isn’t contained to one garden alone! One day, when exploring Portland on bikes, we cycled to a smaller garden not far from the Mississippi Avenue district, called Peninsula Rose Garden.

Peninsula Rose Garden

It did not have the awe-inducing scale of the International Rose Test Garden, but it made up for that with charm. We loved the fountain and gazebo, and of course, the walking paths between rows of well-tended flowers.

Peninsula Rose Garden

I love gazebos

I know Mack and I are very fortunate to live so close to Edmonton’s beautiful river valley, but there’s just something about the spectrum of colours in the manicured public garden that made me a bit envious of Portlanders.

Paths

Waterfront Park and Eastbank Esplanade

Mack is always quick to point out to those who say Edmonton’s river valley is our defining feature that most cities are built around rivers, so this doesn’t make us unique. I love our river valley as much as the next person, but for many, there is an attitude that we need to preserve its natural state to the point where it cannot be easily accessed and enjoyed. What’s the point of having such a great asset if it cannot be taken advantage of?

Geese love parks!

Portland’s riverfront is much different than Edmonton’s, in the sense that the gradient is far shallower. But it was, on a brilliantly clear day, amazing to see just how many people were making use of the waterside paths.

Waterfront Park

We explored both sides of the parks lining the Willamette River on numerous occasions, on foot and by bike. The Eastbank Esplanade, a pedestrian and bicycle path, even features a 1200 foot floating walkway.

The Eastbank Esplanade during the day

The Eastbank Esplanade at night

The view from the Esplanade

Sometimes, the best thing about travelling are the unintended discoveries. For me, parks and public spaces were definitely a wonderful surprise we found in Portland.

Portland: Food Cart Central

In September, Mack and I spent ten days in Portland, Oregon. I’m hoping to cover the highlights of our trip over a series of posts.

When deciding where we would vacation last fall, we had a short list of American cities we had yet to explore. Portland was at the very top, and given its vibrant food cart culture, it seemed fitting to pay them a visit on the heels of our biggest What the Truck?! event to date. We knew about the sheer number of food carts in the city (somewhere between 400-600), had heard about their well-established food pods (clusters of food carts), and researched some of the vendors that have received national attention. We were more than ready to experience the mobile magic ourselves.

First Impressions

I have to say, our initial impressions weren’t positive. Our first encounter came on night one, after checking into our hotel. We had located a food pod about two blocks away on Alder Street, and were hoping to score a quick dinner.

This pod, like most others in the downtown core, was made up of carts set up on the periphery of parking lots. Although we did encounter actual “food trucks” over the course of our trip, most vendors were set up in converted trailers, connected to city power and water hook-ups. Many were far from well-maintained.

Dual purpose lots

For visitors like us, it also wasn’t evident where patrons were supposed to sit, without obvious dining areas in sight. A few days later, after familiarizing ourselves with the neighbourhood, we located a park nearby, but for a city known for its pedestrian leanings, the lack of benches was surprising.

Worst of all, the vast majority of vendors were closed! We learned quickly that most downtown carts only operated during the lunch rush, while pods that catered to the evening crowd were located in other parts of Portland.

Sorry, come again

On the plus side, this did narrow down our choices quite significantly, given there were only three carts still open at 6:30pm that night. We ended up ordering from neighbouring vendors, picking up a Cuban sandwich ($7.50) from El Cubo de Cuba, and a yellow chicken curry ($5) from the aptly named I Like Thai Food.

El Cubo de Cuba and I Like Thai Food

Unlike food trucks, which are set at a grade or two above street level, many of the food carts in that area were constructed from converted trailers. As a result, we were able to peer directly into the kitchens and watch as our food was being prepared.

Although it didn’t make sense for us to partake, El Cubo de Cuba participates in Go Box, an initiative that attempts to decrease the waste of disposable food containers by encouraging the use of reusable take-out boxes. It’s just neat to see an example of a program that can flourish only with a critical mass of vendors.

With seemingly no other option, we brought our food back to the hotel for consumption. The curry was absolutely steaming hot, and cooked to order, the chicken was tender amongst the softened vegetables. I couldn’t get over how inexpensive it was – $5 for a generously portioned curry and a side of rice was unreal.

Yellow curry and Cuban sandwich

Similarly, the pork in the cuban sandwich was dripping with juice, and with meat stuffed to the brim, Mack could barely finish it. The tater tots were a fun alternative to fries.

Eats After Dark

Two days later, we made plans to check out one of the late night pods across the river. About a half hour’s walk from downtown, Cartopia on Hawthorne and SE 12th was adjacent to numerous bars and restaurants. This proximity was the case for the two other late night pods we passed through later that week (one on Mississippi Avenue and another, with live music, in Clinton), and made perfect sense given the pods’ complementary nature to brick and mortar businesses, enhancing street life all while providing a hangover cure.

Cartopia was set up on a vacant lot, and the carts, like those we had first encountered, were also plugged into the power and water systems. Unlike the downtown pods, however, Cartopia had a canopied seating area and portapotties. And with a simple string of lights, it looked like the perfect place to spend a warm fall night.

Cartopia

We were swayed by the promise of poutine ($5) from Potato Champion, but it ended up being the least favourite food cart dish of our trip. Although the fries were all right, the “curds” were mozzarella chunks, and the gravy was weirdly sour and unstrained, which left chunks of onion amongst the sauce to contend with.

Poutine

We fared better for dessert – Perierra Creperie had the longest line of any vendor, and after trying a delicate chocolate and banana crepe ($6) made literally in front of us, we could see why.

Perierra Creperie

From Whiffies, I indulged in a deep fried peach pie ($5). Freshly fried, the pastry was deliciously crackly.

Enjoying my deep fried pie

No doubt, the advantage of pods was the ability to mix and match – for the price of one entree at a casual upscale eatery, we were able to sample three different items. Though we didn’t crunch the numbers, we were almost certain we spent less on food in Portland than we have in our other trips to American cities in recent years.

The Money Cart

Our hallelujah food cart moment came halfway through our trip, when we made our way to Brunch Box on Oak Street. Featured in season one on Eat St., this was the cart that had become seared in my memory, the money shot of the YouCanHasCheeseburger haunting me.

Brunch Box

What is the YouCanHasCheeseburger, you ask? It’s a burger on steroids – instead of a regular bun, all of the makings of a burger, a patty, lettuce, tomato and onions, are bookended by two Texas toast grilled cheese sandwiches. All for $6.

YouCanHasCheeseburger

It was far from gourmet, but that burger was our most memorable meal, probably because it met our sky high expectations, built up after years of anticipation. The buttery crispness of the grilled cheese just melted into the beef, with sauteed onions providing a sweet finish.

Digging in

The burger made such an impression on us, in spite of the caloric feat, we returned to Brunch Box…two more times.

Ecstatic to be back for a grilled cheese

PDX Favourites

Because food pods have taken root all across Portland, many of the popular vendors have been able to open multiple locations.

We returned to the Alder Street pod for lunch one day so we could dine at carts that were already closed on our first visit. Though we were in the thick of the lunch rush, there were surprisingly few people around the pod. With so many vendors competing with one another, we had to wonder how some were able to survive, especially with such limited operating hours.

Mack made a beeline for Grilled Cheese Grill, a cart with three locations in the city. They had an impressive selection of classic and modern grilled cheese combinations, with Mack ultimately deciding on the Gabby ($5.75), with Tilamook cheddar, colby jack, swiss, mozzarella and bacon. He enjoyed it, but said it paled in comparison with the simple but solid grilled cheese sandwich from Brunch Box.

The Gabby

Nong’s Khao Man Gai is easily Portland’s most famous food cart, renowned across America for the sole dish they sell, a Hainanese chicken rice. They have two locations in the city, and both close up shop once the day’s inventory has been sold.

Nong’s Khao Man Gai

The front clerk charmed those waiting in line, his carefree disposition translating into effortless upsells and smiling customers. I was easily convinced to add an order of fried chicken skin ($1) to the basic order of poached chicken and rice ($6.75).

Chicken and rice

Terrible photo aside, the dish transported me back to Asia. Served in a paper packet sealed with an elastic, the slow braised meat was some of the best chicken I’ve had, and even better when accompanied with a bite of aromatic, shiny rice and a drizzle of ginger and garlic-flecked chili sauce. The order also included a small container of fragrant broth, which I inhaled.

No doubt, the sheer number and panoply of carts was impressive. Though we weren’t sure how they all sustain themselves, it was entirely true that a high quality meal could be had at street corners all over Portland. Let’s hope Edmonton’s food truck culture continues to develop in this direction!

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