Quick but Dirty: Pho Hoa

On Thursday, Bettina and I went to Pho Hoa (9723-106 Avenue) in Chinatown for dinner. It has been years since I dined here, the last time being sometime in high school right after its grand opening. Nothing negative resonates with me from that experience, but this time, I’m sorry to say it left quite the impression.

First of all, trying to enter the restaurant was an ordeal in itself. There were several doors, all but one marked with faded, handwritten signs, or sealed shut with packing tape. Once in the dining room, we were abruptly seated with a curt nod and menus deposited at a random booth – the kind of turn-your-back service seemingly common at Chinese ethnic eateries.

I must say – the owners really let the place deteriorate. The seats and floors were dirty, and table legs were steadied with wads of paper napkins. Lighting was poor, with peripheral seats near the windows left in the dark with poor placement of overhead fluorescent bulbs. And though it must have been the same way all those years ago, I had forgotten about the communal chopstick and soup spoon jar. Still, with one glance at the rest of the place, the utensils begged for a personal scrubbing with the tea, Hong Kong style.

The waitress clearly had a low English proficiency. When asked, with the aid of hand gestures, about the thickness of the steak, her reply was “No.” Similarly, a clarification about the vegetables included in one of the dishes was left unanswered as well. Needless to say, ordering by number came to be quite handy. I did find the menus amusing though, with pictures and descriptions about the types of soup bowls offered; essentially, it was “pho for dummies.” I ordered the Pho Bo Vien (noodle soup with meatballs), while Bettina chose the Pho Tai (noodle soup with eye round steak).

One positive – the food did arrive lightning quick, definitely in less than five minutes. The portion size was noticeably smaller than Pagolac’s version, but even more egregious – the soup base was nearly flavorless. My friend had to resort to hoisin sauce as an additive. To me, the broth had an odd aroma that I couldn’t quite place. And no, I don’t think it had anything to do with beef.

We had chosen Pho Hoa on a whim. Not surprisingly, we won’t make that mistake again.

One shining example of a table in need of repair…

 

Pho for beginners!
Pho Tai

Pho Bo Vien

Deliciously Affordable: New Asian Village Lunch Buffet

A few girlfriends and I went to the new Strathcona Square location of New Asian Village (9808-34 Avenue) to try out their lunch buffet. I’m not a huge fan of buffets (unless I’m not paying) as I typically cannot eat enough to make the cost worthwhile. Thankfully, today’s meal was a mere $9.95; pennies for pounds of food!

Having only been open for three weeks, the restaurant still looked brand spanking new. Accented with Indian antiques, the dining room decor is subtle but effective – dark woods, red drop lamps, and corner booths draped with organza fabric. The buffet area is well designed, occupying one side of the room, and pointed to an obvious directionality. Hot dishes stewed in basins with sliding lids, and were the most functional yet stylish containers I’ve ever seen at a buffet.

There were over fifteen hot dishes available, including naan bread, saffron rice, chicken kadai and beef curry. I can’t remember the name of my favorite dish, but it used the same sweet, flavorful sauce as the butter chicken. Although a few curries were too spicy for my taste, the quality of the food was excellent, and even more amazing when the price is considered.

For dessert, I tried the rice pudding, but quickly put my serving aside, as there was a rather strong hint of ginger mixed in. The mango custard, on the other hand, was quite nice – light, and had a nice cooling effect after ingesting a variety of strongly seasoned meats.

The service was great, though I would caution the waitress about immediately telling about the “plumbing problems,” and out-of-order washrooms, which happened as soon as we sat down at our table. As our glasses of drinking water were delivered soon after, we weren’t sure if we should trust the water quality (we’re paranoid, what can I say?).

Despite the bathroom hindrance, New Asian Village is definitely worth a look. Be sure to check out their lunch and dinner ($14.95) buffet specials before it’s too late!

Cozy booths (with low, sunken cushions)
Table setting
Coconut display
Buffet set up
My (first) plate
Rice pudding dessert
Mango custard
Us!

Christmas Buffet: Sutton Place Hotel

This afternoon, my organization held it’s annual holiday party. As was the case last year, our lunch was held in one of the meeting rooms in the Sutton Place Hotel (10235-101 Street), with access to the Grande Ballroom where the main buffet was set up.

At $26.50 per person, it may seem pricey on the outset, but considering the type of food available, and the upscale elegance of the setting, it is fairly reasonable. The menu included roast turkey, baked salmon, beef tourtiere, and a variety of cold seafood platters. Although the spread was similar to last year’s offerings, I do believe the quality had much improved (granted, the mere act of conjuring up superlatives to describe this year’s lunch may have colored my perspective slightly). In particular, I found myself favoring the cheese perogies and carved ham. For dessert, I chose a slice of chocolate mousse cake (incorrectly labeled “double chocolate”), and as Rachel Ray would say: “Yum-o!”

Props to my coworkers who had created a Christmas-themed Jeopardy game to follow our meal. It was incredibly well put-together, with questions sampling Yuletide songs, pop culture, and charades.

Overall, it was a fun and relaxing way to spend an afternoon away from the office.

Table setting

Buffet line up

My plate!

Chocolate mousse cake

Unremarkable and Without Identity: Kelsey’s

My friend and I went to Kelsey’s (3203 Calgary Trail Southbound) on the southside for dinner last night. We wanted to go someplace casual, and Kelsey’s was a compromise between my pick (Blue Plate Diner), and his (Earl’s).

Kelsey’s is part of the Cara Family of food services, which also includes Second Cup, Milestone’s, Swiss Chalet and Harvey’s. This was my first time in this particular chain, and when asked to describe it, my friend remarked that the restaurants have a remarkable resemblance to Boston Pizza. After eating there, I would have to agree. But whereas, for example, Homefire Grill had an apparent identity crisis, Kelsey’s simply has no identity.

The main difference between the two (besides Howie Mandel’s overly obnoxious television spots) is that Kelsey’s’ “your neighbourhood bar & grill” tag automatically gears it towards adults, while BP’s “you’re among friends” is more all-around family friendly. My assessment is also supported by the decor in Kelsey’s. Dark, and not as well-lit and inviting as the neon-colored, Hollywood-postered Boston Pizza, it evoked a lethargic atmosphere more suited to twenty-four hour operations like Denny’s. This particular location seemed to showcase its lounge as well, as the main door opened up to reveal an elevated bar, flanked by two separate, smaller dining rooms on either side.

The menu had the requisite new-age salads, pastas, sandwiches, and grill items that are par for a casual dining course. I will say, however, that their “complete classic meal” was quite a steal – an appetizer, entree, and dessert for a few dollars more than the regular price of a main. I couldn’t pass up such a deal, so I ordered the Balsamic Chicken (two boneless chicken breasts marinated in garlic and spices, grilled and topped with a balsamic garlic cream sauce, served with garlic-mashed potatoes and vegetables), and a cup of broccoli cheddar soup to start. My friend opted for the build-your-own Chicken Fajita.

Our food arrived after an abbreviated delay, served by a waitress that reminded me of Kristin Chenoweth, all kinds of bubbly and grown-woman cute. My friend’s fajita came with much fanfare – a large platter containing, among other things, a sizzling plate of sautéed onions, bell peppers, and chicken. Four tortilla wraps didn’t seem like enough, but my friend didn’t complain. My soup was better than average; it was nice to see the serving topped off with fresh cheddar. On the other hand, the chicken was nothing to write home about, especially now that I’ve experienced 4th and Vine’s fabulous hazelnut garlic rub. The potatoes were a little on the runny side, and though the vegetables were good, steamed zucchini and broccoli shouldn’t be the best part of an entree.

We split my last course – the chocolate marshmallow truffle (chocolate truffle with marshmallows on a cookie crumb crust with white and dark chocolate, topped with real whipped cream). It’s a shame I was still sick, because the combination of truffle, crushed cookie, mini marshmallows, chocolate sauce and whipped cream was a Goldilocks dessert – not too sweet, but just right.

It’s hard to know if I’ll be back at Kelsey’s, because I was left with absolutely no lasting impression. It would be difficult to recall this restaurant in times of hunger.

Restaurant interior

Chicken fajita

Broccoli cheddar soup

Balsamic chicken

Chocolate marshmallow truffle

Reliable Standby: Swiss Chalet

My family and I had supper at Swiss Chalet in South Edmonton Common (2203-99 Street) this evening. Not glamorous but comfortable, Swiss Chalet is among my favorite casual dining spots – affordable, with a good menu, consistent quality, and friendly service.

We snagged seats in the lounge, as the dining room was buzzing with a typical frenzied Friday night crowd. Had I not been fending off a cold, I would have gone with my predictable selection of chicken pot pie, but today, I opted for the chicken quesadilla with a side of chalet chicken soup.

Though our food arrived after a longer wait than usual, I was happy with my dish. The portion size was larger than I expected, with four generous slices each packed with a healthy dose of chicken, cheddar cheese, onions and bell peppers. The soup was great as well – hot, flavorful, and filled my psychological need for chicken broth.

I hope to be well enough to enjoy an order of chicken pot pie soon!

Chicken club wrap with fries

Chicken quesadilla with chalet chicken soup

Not My Cup of Tea: Mikado Restaurant

As any restaurateur is well aware, lunch is the best way to more inexpensively sample an eatery’s fare. So although I am not a fan of Japanese food, I thought I’d give the southside Mikado (1903-98 Street) a shot this afternoon with my Mum.

I have to admit to being impressed by their decor. Designed to reflect a simple elegance, the dark wood and leather furniture, accented by cream-colored square and geometric lanterns aspired to offer Asian cuisine within a Western framework and expectations. Fronting the kitchen lay a full-service sushi bar, with uniformed chefs visibly at work. The waitresses too were costumed, complete with satin kimonos and tatami sandals. Non-descript flute and piano-heavy instrumentals streamed from the speakers.

In addition to regular tables and booths, patrons also had the option of renting private rooms. Before we left, my Mum and I asked for a brief tour, which they willingly obliged to. I must confess the kitschy part of me was enthused at the idea of eating at a low table, seated on the floor in a traditional manner. But that’s to buy into cookie-cutter culture, right?

We had heard that Mikado served lunch specials, but when questioned about these, the waitress merely pointed to the menu she had given us, and said that the specials were the Bento Boxes, priced lower than they would be at dinner. Balking at the idea of eating sushi, I settled on the Beef Teriyaki (beef slices, vegetable stir fry, rice), while my Mum decided on the A-1 Bento Box (sushi, sashimi, mix tempura, chicken teriyaki, salad, rice).

While we waited for our food, we enjoyed several cups of brown rice tea. Stronger than the jasmine tea they typically serve in Chinese restaurants, we marveled later on at how hot the brew stayed throughout our meal in the seemingly magically-insulated plastic teapot.

My Mum’s order came rather quickly, although I had to wait at least another five minutes for my own dish to arrive. Needless to say, for the price ($12.95), she wasn’t floored with her Bento Box. She said she much preferred the version available at Banzai (4608 Calgary Trail).

As for the Beef Teriyaki – to begin with, I was expecting a larger portion for $12.95. Although the beef itself was tender, the slices were bathed in oil, whereas I was hoping for more teriyaki sauce. The chopped cabbage, carrots, and broccolli were fine, but lacked pizzazz. And like my Mum, I knew of a better deal sold elsewhere – the Tokyo Express beef bowl.

Yes, I acknowledge that the higher prices paid at Mikado are for the atmosphere, but personally, I favor the dine and dash variety of Japanese cuisine offered at Tokyo Express.

Sushi bar

Booths

Cup and teapot

Bento Box

Beef Teriyaki

Upright Consistency: Doan’s Restaurant

I haven’t yet decided if I’m going to “repeat post” about restaurants I’ve already reviewed, but in this case, I do have some new pictures, so it is worth blogging about.

Following the Festival, a few friends and I went to Doan’s Restaurant, which I first wrote about in October. I’m quite uninspired about what to add to my previous review, but I do think this translates to a positive remark about Doan’s, as the service, food quality, and ambiance all remained consistent.

However, even though the dining room itself is better taken care of, and the portions are larger, I still consider the southside Pagolac my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Edmonton. Pagolac is like a friend’s basement – I feel comfortable sitting back, and enjoy the conversation that flows and is facilitated by a casual atmosphere. Because of the decor at Doan’s, I am conscious of the need to sit upright, as the environment dictates more formal behavior.

Perhaps the way to go is Pagolac for dining in and Doan’s for take out?

Dining room

Tea (still a rip off, but I used my “emergency tea bag” to make the pot stronger, without just asking for free hot water)

Wonton Soup for one (isn’t it cute?)

Combination Grilled Beef Plate

Pho Tai for me (as always)

Dinner & a Movie: 4th and Vine

Following Superskills last night, my friend and I went to 4th and Vine (11358-104 Avenue) for supper. I read about the restaurant in Vue Weekly a few months ago, and was particularly drawn to their weekly “dinner & a movie” event. That Sunday, both An Inconvenient Truth and Who Killed the Electric Car? were featured, but we elected to sit for the second movie, as we had already watched the first.

The lengthy, rectangular-shaped dining room was an interesting design, one not often seen in Edmonton. Instead, it reminded me of space conscious restaurants in Toronto. The high-back, black leather chairs and dark mahogany tables, accentuated by the glow from nearby lamps, oozed an air of sophistication not unlike that from a pristine, upscale furniture showroom. Furthermore, it seemed as if these events had been offered long enough to warrant the purchase of a ceiling-mounted projector and pull-down screen located at the far end of the room.

As anticipated, 4th and Vine had an extensive wine and spirits list, complete with suggested entree wine pairings. Unfortunately, I wasn’t in the imbibing mood, but my friend did have a Stella. Their food menu, on the other hand, was sparse in comparison. However, it seems the focus on few dishes was to their advantage.

I ordered the chicken breast (pan-flashed chicken breast basted in their signature garlic hazelnut butter, served with daily starch and seasonal vegetables), while my friend decided on the penne jambalaya (spicy Italian sausage, chicken breast, and prawns sauteed with bell peppers and red onion in a zesty sun-dried tomato sauce). Though the serving was not as generous as I had hoped, it more than made up for size with flavor. The signature butter was superb, with the hazlenuts providing great texture and crunch, and complemented the tender, juicy chicken well. I also have a weak spot for grilled vegetables, so I was happy to see them on my plate. My friend commented that his pasta was “hotter than Gore’s anger over global warming, but not hotter than Gore’s anger over losing to Bush.”

We split a chocolate mousse for dessert (hurrah for coupons!). Gosh, was the aftertaste ever potent. There was no mention of liqueur used in the mousse, but after several spoonfuls, I had to cry for water. Needless to say, I did not finish dessert that night.

We finished dinner right on time to focus on the Electric Car. Thanking our lucky stars, we had access to the best spot in the house, as the patrons who had originally reserved the COUCH didn’t show. I’m still tickled by the experience of watching a movie in a public restaurant from the comfort of a couch. Moreover, the kitchen even delivered a free bowl of “gourmet” popcorn (air-popped, slightly burnt kernels drizzled with garlic butter) to each table!

With great food and a novel concept, I must say I was quite enamored with 4th and Vine, and will be back in the not too distant future.

Restaurant interior

Penne jambalaya (pictures are blurry because I didn’t want the flash to distract patrons from the movie)

Chicken breast

Movie screen

Couch!

Cooly Authentic: El Rancho Spanish Restaurant

A few friends and I had supper at El Rancho Spanish Restaurant (11810-87 Street) on Saturday night to celebrate one friend’s professional milestone.

Both the covert location (tucked away in a northside neighborhood) and the authenticity of the food can lead one to label El Rancho with the coveted “gem” status. With salmon-colored walls, a small dining room, and cozy burnished tables, the thought of being in grandma’s kitchen was not far away. Upbeat Spanish-language music played in the background, functioning well as festive background noise (at least until they switched to Shakira. Blech).

The menu prices were very reasonable, and encourage the sampling and sharing of dishes. Still, I think my entree, the Enchilada Mexicana (corn tortilla filled with chicken garnished with tomato sauce), served with both rice and salad proved to be the largest dish out of all we ordered and hence the best deal. Also, on my next trip, I should make a note to ask about the dressing – probably olive-oil based, it had a nutty flavor unlike anything else I’ve ever had. My only nitpick – I wanted the dish to be served warmer, if not only to combat the cold air streaming in from the poorly insulated walls and window!

Hands down, best part of our meal that night was the dessert! We split a Tres Leches (three milks cake) and the Pan del Dia (pastry of the day), which happened to be Choco Flan (isn’t that fun to say?!). The Tres Leches, soaked in milk, evaporated milk and condensed milk, was my favorite. Not as sweet as the waitress had warned, the cake was moist and light, the perfect partner to the round of Abuelita Hot Chocolate we had ordered as well. It was probably the cold talking, but the cocoa-based concoction was delicious!

El Rancho will be having a “Latino Christmas” celebration on December 1, with a set dinner for $25 per person. Whether you head to the restaurant on that occasion or on another day, it is definitely worth a try!

El Rancho Spanish Restaurant

Dining room

Flautas Mexicanas (three rolled golden fried tortillas stuffed with chicken, carrots and onions, topped with shredded lettuce, sour cream, and El Rancho sauce)

Burrito al Carbon (a flour tortilla stuffed with grilled beef with fried beans, salsa, guacamole, sour cream, garnished with salad)

Enchilada Mexicana

Tres Leches and Choco Flan

Abuelita Hot Chocolate

Fresh Start Bakery

I decided to check out Fresh Start Bakery (484 Riverbend Square) with my parents while we were in the area this afternoon. I had originally read about the cafe in Vue Weekly, and noticing the apparent hunger in Edmonton for upscale breads and treats (Fresh Start joins Cobbs Bread and the more established Bon Ton and Bee Bell Bakeries), it seemed time to try the city’s latest.

Catering to the wealthy and idle, the cafe was clean and spacious, with stone accents and marble counters to boot. Atop the hearth sat a flat-panel television screen, listing the country songs being played on the digital radio station. The bakery counter was located to the left of the entrance, displaying fresh loaves and desserts too saccharine for a late lunch. My dieter’s sensibility drove me instead to the bistro showcase.

Given the location of this cafe, expensive dishes were to be expected. The bistro side offered some freshly-prepared goods, including paninis, rice bowls, and pizza, but also some heat-from-the-cooler standard coffee shop fare, such as quiche and shepherd’s pie. I opted for the latter, while my Mum ordered a large bowl of beef and vegetable soup.

The pie was nicely plated, but sadly, I couldn’t tell if it had been microwaved or oven-heated (usually indicative of the former). Still, the beef was well-seasoned, with a reasonable quantity of vegetables, and the cookie-pressed mashed potato florets created a distinctive presentation. My Mum’s soup was disappointing in size ($5.99 for the bowl), but she did appreciate the low sodium flavored broth and generous portion of beef included.

Before heading home, we opted to take home some baked goods. I chose a Montreal-style cheese bagel, and after a frustrating “Who’s on first?” type exchange with the clerk (“No, we want the goosen, NOT the cinnamon bun!”), my mum ended up with a cinnamon bun (don’t ask). I found the bagel to be worth a return trip – crunchy with a sumptuous cheesy essence. My Dad commented that the cinnamon bun was good, but inferior to Mum’s own.

Fresh Start can be considered an alternative to the run of the mill coffee chain, and if I happen to be in Riverbend in the future, I wouldn’t overlook dropping by for a cup of coffee. But I’d be sure to load up on a heartier meal elsewhere first.

Fresh Start Bakery (I neglected to bring my camera, so I was forced to take an image from the website).