Satisfyingly Authentic: B-Bim-Baab Restaurant

My fellow Europe-bound companions and I had dinner at an off-the-beaten path Korean restaurant in a southside business park. B-Bim-Baab (9543-42 Avenue) came with Annie’s recommendation of authenticity and quality, and as the rest of us soon discovered, she was spot on.

With dated furniture of the Pagolac variety and aged carpeting, it was clear the decor wasn’t the main attraction of B-Bim-Baab. We decided to split four dishes, and after some discussion, ordered the Dolsot B-Bim-Baab (rice and egg, among other ingredients served in a Hot Stone Bowl), Tofu Yachae Bokum (pan fried tofu stir fried with vegetables), Charp Chae (clear potato string noodles stir fried with seasoned black mushrooms and vegetables), and Chicken Tang Su Yuk (crispy chicken with sweet and sour black bean sauce, tossed with slices of green pepper, red peppers, onions, and pine apples).

The very polite and petite waitresses were quite attentive over the course of dinner, though there was an accident involving chili sauce and Annie’s white hoodie. The dishes arrived one after the other, and all contained generous servings. My favorite dish was probably the B-Bim-Baab, if not only for the novelty of the Hot Stone Bowl. The egg added a creaminess to the sticky, crunchy rice for a texture previously unbenowst to me.

When we left, we were surprised how busy the restaurant was, given it was Friday night, and its location in the ‘middle of nowhere.’ But like El Rancho in the northside, this can be considered another of Edmonton’s ethnic gems.

Restaurant interior

Rice

Bean Sprouts

Kim Chee

Dolsot B-Bim-Baab

Tofu Yachae Bokum

Charp Chae

Chicken Tang Su Yuk

A Black & White Affair: Culina

Ask any of my close friends and they’ll tell you that I carry “the list” with me at all times. This piece of paper contains my culinary hit list – names and addresses of city restaurants I would like to try. Subscribing to the mantra of “always prepared,” I know I’ll have an answer to the question of “Where do you want to eat?”

So on Saturday, I finally made it to the place at the top of the list. Culina (9914-89 Avenue), based on its local recognition and critical acclaim, is the middle-income equivalent of Vancouver’s Vij’s. Brad Lazerenko’s name is eternally on the lips of those in the business, and I had to find out if his Culina really deserved all of the hype.

I made sure to call ahead for reservations, having heard their weekend brunch was quite popular. When Bettina and I arrived just after noon, all but two tables were full. The restaurant was much smaller than I had anticipated – seating capacity couldn’t have been more than 35 tops – and was decidedly chic. Stark contrasts created by eggshell white walls and curtains, black floor, and dark brown furniture translated into a modern, if not slightly cold decor. I know this is a personal bias (which I’ve expressed before), but an enjoyable brunch in my mind must be supplemented with sunshine and possess that feeling of kick-back casual. Amidst the rather formal surroundings of Culina’s dining room with its shrouded windows, I couldn’t help but think it may function better as a business lunch or dinner destination.

Our waitress was on the green side, but did her best to find out the answers to our questions. Bettina ended up ordering ‘the ham and cheese’ (honeyham and edam on grilled raisin bread), served with salad, while I chose the ‘bacon and eggs’ (slow braised bacon, mushroom frittata, potato hash, rye toasts, spicy ketchup).

Our food arrived in a prompt fashion. Bettina didn’t have anything negative to say about her sandwich, except that it was really nothing special. As for my meal – it was different, and definitely showcased the creative cuisine Lazarenko is known for. In place of traditional bacon, the meat portion of the dish was fried pieces of pulled pork. It wasn’t bad, but did take some getting used to. The frittata was topped with a blue cheese mushroom cream sauce, and though I initially winced at the mention of blue cheese, it turned out to be surprisingly good.

I will admit to having unbridled expectations for Culina – both because of how long it took me to eat there and all of the glowing literature I had read. So while I wasn’t entirely disappointed, Culina’s brunch just isn’t for me. I’m willing to give their dinner a shot, but it may have to wait in lieu of their rather pricey menu.

Restaurant interior

Sugar and creamer

Water in a wine bottle

‘the ham and cheese’

‘bacon and eggs’

Un-egg-ceptional: Red Robin’s

Dickson and I decided to head to the downtown Red Robin’s (11215-104 Avenue) for a bite to eat before catching a play on Tuesday night. With friendly kitsch, bright decor, and unlimited baskets of fries, the restaurant is a solid choice for a casual meal.

I love their economical French Onion Soup – served with a slice of cheese toast, it’s the best deal on the menu. This time around though, I decided to spring for the Royal Red Robin Burger, described on the website as, “the aristocrat of all burgers because we crown it with a fresh jumbo fried egg.” Mack and Dickson order it without fail, so I figured I’d give it a shot to see what all the fuss was about.

It was certainly filling (as most of their burger meals are), but between the beef and the rest of the fixings, it was difficult to taste the egg at all. Perhaps I’d have to sample it again, but I’m more likely to stick with my tried-and-true bacon and cheese next time.

Defaced tabletop display (courtesy of Dickson)

Royal Red Robin Burger

The Cooking Chronicles: Lemon Yogurt Cake

Though my time would have been better spent testing out recipes for my upcoming dinner party, I couldn’t resist testing out Barefoot Contessa‘s recipe for Lemon Yogurt Cake. The seminar I’ve been attending this weekend has been serviced by a fabulous caterer, who makes the most delectable citrus pound cake. Needless to say, I was looking to have more of such treats at home.

I used our fancy new Cuisipro Accutec grater I recently bought my Mum to zest a few lemons. With my usual tendency to be careless, I made sure to watch my fingers! I ended up doubling the recipe – baking one batch of mini loaves and one large loaf. The latter took forever to set, after over an hour ten in the oven total (though in fairness, I jumped the gun and took it out much too early). After this experience, I have been reminded of the necessity to conduct the clean toothpick test clear down the middle – at an angle just won’t cut it.

The recipe called for an odd post-baking infusion of sweetened lemon juice. It really only worked for the large loaf, as the smaller portions didn’t burst at the top to allow for absorption of the liquid. I’m not sure if this step is entirely needed, as I found the zest added quite a bit of flavor on its own.

I did like the overall taste, however – the yogurt really contributed to the light and fluffy nature of the cake, especially when compared with its butter-based counterparts. Combined with the freshness of lemon in general, this would be the perfect treat to have on the patio on a warm summer’s night, or out on the grass packed in a picnic lunch. Ina Garten has another winner!

Lemon Yogurt Cake (I really should have taken a picture of the slices…)

Battle of the Big Three: Joey Tomatoes

As we didn’t have time for their famous apple pie last week, Dickson and I headed to Joey Tomatoes downtown (11228 Jasper Avenue) after work today to satisfy his craving.

As those who read my blog using an aggregator know, I am writing this post much later than the date stamp indicates. As such, I have had the opportunity to visit Joey’s a second time before drafting this review, and my opinion has changed slightly in that time for the better.

Besides menu offerings, Earls, Moxie’s and Joey’s – Edmonton mainstays of casual upscale dining – are indistinguishable between their use of dim lighting, dark wood, pulsating music, and club-ready hostesses. Of the three, I prefer Moxie’s simply for their food selection – they have more dishes that I tend to gravitate towards on a day to day basis. I will say, however, that I like the downtown location of Joey’s better than the South Common branch – the table lamps and cozy booths create the feeling of a private dining experience.

On my first outing, I insisted on “real food” to supplement Dickson’s pie, so I thought the Bombay Butter Chicken was worth a try. Though I didn’t expect an authentic meal, I did hope for more than what was essentially curry soup that happened to contain chicken. The sauce was indeed flavourful, but between the inconsequential pieces of meat and bok choy (which had been rendered limp and wilted in the concoction), it wasn’t an enjoyable dish. The accompanying rice was all right, but why the peas weren’t in place of the bok choy was beyond me.

As for the (drumroll) apple pie – on my second tasting, I can appreciate why it is so well-loved. The puff pastry really is the secret, though quite frankly, anything wrapped in puff pastry would taste better. If Dickson was a blogger, he’d have posted about the fact that I challenged the difficulty of making the pie at home. So perhaps when I have exhausted all of the other recipes I have lined up in my culinary queue, I will try my hand at this pie.

As I mentioned above, my most recent experience at Joey’s was an especially positive one. Having come in from the rain that night and feeling vulnerable to a cold, I requested a mug of hot water. Perhaps it is standard practice, and I shouldn’t have been as floored as I was, but the accompanying slice of lime (a la Neocitrin) was an unexpected service-oriented touch. It may have been psychological, but I didn’t end up developing a cold.

Regardless of their intention, I am warming up to Joey Tomatoes. If they retool their menu, they may bump Moxie’s off the top of the big three!

Bombay Butter Chicken

Apple pie!

Cheap Eats and Great Conversation: Ikea Restaurant

There’s nothing better than a busy, intimate coffee shop in the evening – when you can feel the caffeinated buzz in the air, and conversations are almost instinctively spoken in a moderate hush. As great a venue as that can be, the opposite works as well – spacious, dimly lit dining areas light on patrons that breed lengthy, private discussions. The Ikea Restaurant (for dinner) in one such place.

Annie and I have been here a few times for their very economical selections. With a plate of pasta, soup or salad, and drink combo going for $3.99, and a dish of salmon and steamed vegetables priced at $6.49, Ikea offers some of the best deals in the city (this discounts the amount inevitably spent on unnecessary prints, kitchen accessories, and miscellaneous soon-to-be garage sale fodder, but my focus here is only on the food). Ikea claims the lower prices come as a result of their store mantra of self-service (no waiters to serve or clear plates), but how many people realistically pop into the store and manage to bypass merchandise completely? Food is definitely a carrot in this case.

We both ordered our reliable standby – a plate of 10 Swedish meatballs, potatoes with gravy and a dollop of cranberry sauce, accompanied with soup or salad and a drink. While not entirely filling on an empty stomach, for $5.99, it leaves enough pocket change to pick up a few 50cent hot dogs on the way out (which I did; I’m still in the wisdom teeth recovery zone of anything goes).

But as in many of my reviews, food comes second to the setting. I adore the dining area in the restaurant with its simple, stylish decor – quintessential Ikea. Single pendant lamps, sleek rows of light wooden tables, and a breathtaking wall of windows create a perfectly understated, minimalist aesthetic. And in the evening, as the sun sets, the ambiance is equivalent to that of a friend’s kitchen – cozy, comfortable, with unending refills of coffee.

Though their $1 breakfasts are great – give Ikea a try when you’re looking for a South Common dinner alternative.

Quiet Corner (I like this shot for the visibility of the Ikea sign, as well as the overview of the parking lot; many have said the store looks resembles a mini-airport)

Swedish meatball special

Central and Satisfying: Three Bananas Cafe

May and I had been to Three Bananas Cafe (9918-102 Avenue) just after it opened a few years ago, but haven’t been back since. Strange, especially since we had a positive experience and it has such a great location – right on Churchill Square. Well, before an event at the Winspear Centre tonight, we decided to grab a quick bite to eat there, knowing they would be fairly efficient, but in the worst-case scenario, we were just a stone’s throw away from our target venue.

A modern yet inviting space, the ‘seat yourself’ mentality lends itself quite well to the casual cafe atmosphere. Lined with windows – a great feature for warm weather people-watching on the Square – the dim lighting is more conducive to catch-up conversations than solo reading in the evenings. There are even a few flat screen televisions mounted on the wall, typically projecting sports programs.

I always marvelled at the fact that what appears to be an upper-scale coffee shop would also have a decent food menu. May ordered the Deli Combo Panini (turkey, smoked ham, pickles, cheddar cheese, dijon mustard and mayo), while I ordered (what else) a Hawaiian Pizza (finally!).

The food arrived after a bit of a wait, though understandable given they only had one cook on shift (who also served as the busperson). May said her Panini was all right, but expressed a preference for the sandwiches served at Booster Juice. My pizza was just what the doctor ordered – the multigrain crust was thin, crunchy and light, and served as a great base to a generous topping of ham, pineapple, and cheddar and mozarella cheeses.

So if you’re in the mood for a coffee or a light meal, Three Bananas sure beats the food court funk.

Right on Churchill Square!

Deli Combo Panini with Organic Chips and Salsa

Ham and Pineapple Pizza

The Cooking Chronicles: More-Peas-if-You-Please Penne

Slowly edging up the solid food chain, I decided to satisfy my pasta craving with Rachel Ray’s More-Peas-if-You-Please Penne. Eye-rolling recipe name aside, I know I give Ray quite a bit of flack for her grating on-screen personality, but I must say, she does have a knack for creating quick and easy weekday supper savers, of which this is a prime example. I’ve also been on the lookout for pasta recipes that don’t use the more run-of-the-mill bottled marinara or alfredo sauces (though don’t get me wrong – I know I’d always have a few stored in my pantry, just in case).

Save omitting the basil, I followed the directions as written. The result was a satisfying, semi-creamy pasta dish celebrating the versatility of peas – in both the “sauce” and as a vegetable additive (I had really forgotten how good peas are). Next time, I’d hold off on some of the ricotta in favor of even more peas, and have the foresight not to discard all of the pasta water (oops…).

This recipe is definitely worth a try if you’re out of dinner ideas!

More-Peas-if-You-Please Penne

The Cooking Chronicles: Smoky Roasted-Potato Chowder

I’ve been itching to make soup from scratch, in particular one that would make use of the immersion blender my Mum unearthed. So when the March 2007 issue of Chatelaine came with a gorgeous-looking Smoky Roasted-Potato Chowder on the cover, I knew exactly what would be on the menu.

The most time-consuming aspect of the recipe was allowing the vegetables to roast in the oven, but it was a hands-off process, so I shouldn’t complain. The stewing process with chicken broth and water was fairly straightforward as well. When it came time to blend the concoction, however, perhaps a food processor (as listed in the recipe) would have made a better equipment choice, as the red onions put up quite a fight against the tiny fitted blade of my hand blender.

In the end, I was rather disappointed with the dish. Though filling due to the starch content provided by the potatoes, the soup lacked the depth of flavor I was hoping for. Spices and herbs are not my forte, so I’m at a loss as to possible substitutions, except to suggest the addition of red pepper flakes to the vegetable mixture for some heat.

But not to worry, I won’t let this experiment discourage future soup creations!

Smoky Roasted-Potato Chowder

Dwarfed Expectations: Bua Thai

Since Dickson had expressed a desire to have his favorite apple pie dessert from Joey’s Grill, I figured it was a good time as any to satisfy my craving for the best pad thai in the city. Located across the street from the downtown Joey’s, Bua Thai (10049-113 Street) is a small restaurant renowned for its abrupt service and great food (in that order). I know that when I’ve talked about my past dining experiences there, I usually draw attention to their rather rude way of greeting patrons (involving a quick, “Reservation?” in place of a typical, “Good evening” or “Hello”). At the same time, I think I have reached a point where I am nearly expecting that abuse, equating a meal there to a dinner theatre for sado-masochists.

I made sure to call ahead for reservations, despite knowing that we were dining early on a Tuesday night. When we reached the restaurant at 5:30, we were, not surprisingly, the only customers there. The dining room is simply and tastefully decorated, with Asian artifacts clustered near the order counter, a few plants scattered throughout, and colorful tapestries set underneath the glass countertops of individual tables.

Bua Thai boasts quite an extensive menu, but I didn’t need any guidance to head straight for the phat thai. To supplement the noodles, we also ordered the baked lemongrass chicken. The phat thai, as anticipated, was fantastic. I’m not sure what it is about their version that makes it so much better than others, except to say that the dish reminds me of Chinese char kway teow. As for the chicken – the serving was fairly generous (though for the price, it had to have been), and though the chili-lemongrass sauce flavored the meat nicely, the chicken was on the dry side.

And the report you’ve all been waiting for – the service was actually fine. Our host/waiter could have even been considered friendly! Is it wrong to say that my dwarfed expectations lessened my experience somewhat? I’m really not easy to please.

Overall, I enjoyed the food. Though I must admit that I didn’t recall how steep the prices were. Bua Thai is by necessity an infrequent destination.

Restaurant interior