Closer to the Bottom: Garage Burger Bar

Mack and I headed to Garage Burger Bar (10242-106 Street) for a late lunch this afternoon. I had assumed good things about Garage from its four year streak in claiming Vue Weekly‘s vote for “Best Burger” in its annual Golden Fork Awards. As such, I was expecting burger-equivalent fireworks when they received top honors again just last week.

We arrived at the restaurant just after four, greeted by a waitress relieved to be relinquished from her boredom – it turns out we were the first customers since the lunch rush ended several hours before. Needless to say, this wasn’t a positive initial impression.

It was fairly nice out (though it drizzled a bit later on), so we decided to sit out on their small enclosed patio. The plastic lawn chairs weren’t the most comfortable furniture I’d ever encountered, but they served their purpose. The interior of the dining room itself (a refurbished garage – hence the name) was in a word, “dingy,” but something I think wouldn’t be as noticeable with a larger crowd present. The waitress said that Garage had been around for over fifteen years, and admittedly, it showed.

We perused the menu, and Mack commented that he liked the fact that all burgers with the exception of one were priced equally at $5.99. Fries, however, had to be ordered separately ($1.79). I chose the Bacon(!) Mozza Burger (self explanatory), while Mack was delighted to verbalize his selection of the Dana Burger (cheddar, bacon, lettuce, tomato, BBQ sauce).
The food, as expected, arrived in an expedient fashion. We were both disappointed when we realized the patties weren’t made from fresh ground beef and wondered how an establishment could have garnered such acclaim from frozen meat. Secondly, I thought the fries tasted as if they had been refried from the batch left over from the lunch crowd.
While the service was good, prices reasonable, and patio pleasant, I can’t say Garage deserved its Golden Fork. At least not until they rehaul their burgers.
Restaurant exterior
Interior
Bacon Mozza Burger
Dana Burger

Exceeding Expectations: Milestone’s

During my research for a trip to Vancouver earlier this year, I came across a “Best of” survey in the Georgia Straight weekly that listed the chain Milestone’s as the second best place for brunch in the city. Until reading that, I had no idea Milestone’s (1708-99 Street) even offered a brunch menu. After perusing their selections online, I decided it would be a nice place for my family and I to take my Mum in celebration of Mother’s Day.

I had made reservations a few weeks ago just in case, but it wasn’t as busy as I expected it to be on a lovely Sunday morning. With warmer tones, a casual atmosphere, and more family-oriented than the comparable Murrieta’s Grill, the decor holds up surprisingly well for brunch, making the most of its high windows and reflective mirrors.

I quite like their menu as a whole, as it contains some interesting takes on traditional weekend fare. Along these lines, I ordered their Italian Sausage Frittata (open faced omelette with fresh garden vegetables, fresh basil, roasted italian sausage, mozzarella and reggiano cheese). My mum opted for the Strawberry French Toast, my Dad chose the Grilled Shrimp California Benedict (in lieu of the Prime Rib Hash that they had “run out of”), and Amanda and Felicia ordered Joe’s Special (seasoned ground beef, fresh spinach, sliced mushrooms, scrambled eggs, chipotle catsup, parmesan) and the Californian Omelette (double-smoked bacon, spicy house-made avocado salsa, diced Roma tomatoes, sharp cheddar), respectively.

The food took a while, but besides that, I had no complaints about the service. When our dishes did arrive, though, not only were they beautifully plated (a detail often overlooked by larger chain restaurants), but the portions were huge (the French Toast in particular)! As for my fritatta, I can’t fully comment on the taste, as the spicy tomato sauce it was smothered in overpowered the sausage and all other additions to the egg. I suppose this could be likened to the spread I used to dislike on Blue Plate Diner’s meatloaf, but have now grown to appreciate, though I would have preferred it sans sauce on the first go-around.

Milestone’s isn’t by any means an inspired choice for brunch, but it was surprisingly good and definitely exceeded my expectations.

Cozy booth
Italian Sausage Frittata
Strawberry French Toast
Grilled Shrimp California Benedict
Joe’s Special
Californian Omelette

Fine Dining, American Style: Ruth’s Chris Steak House

I first posted about Ruth’s Chris Steak House (9990 Jasper Avenue) in November last year when it had just opened in Edmonton. I finally had the opportunity to dine there with a few friends to celebrate a belated birthday.

I’m not sure why steak houses invariably have less lighting sources than other restaurants, but Ruth’s Chris is an exemplar of this. Muted spotlights created a hazy darkness that when combined with the rich red carpeting and dark furniture, could be seen as the picture-perfect abode for stereotypical cinematic Asian gangsters. That said, our dining area (one of three) did have a few elegant touches, including a blue-lit wine cabinet and a soothing water wall. Interestingly enough, the conversational volume in the room rose quite a bit over the course of the evening, bordering on loud in such a small room, but was surprisingly refreshing for a dressed-to-the-nines crowd where I was expecting hushed whispers.

I was glad to see a good selection of non-steak options on the menu, but as I’m not a vegetarian, I couldn’t very well not sample their beef on my introductory visit. The birthday girl and I both chose the Petite Filet, while my two other friends opted to share the Porterhouse for Two. In addition, we selected three sides to share (ordered a la carte) – sautéed mushrooms, au gratin potatoes, and the sweet potato casserole.

The plates arrived smoking hot (out of a 500 degree oven, our server claimed), and the quality was at it should be for an establishment of this caliber. My steak was grilled to medium perfection, tender and spiced to play up the natural flavour of the meat. One of my friends commented that the corn-fed Midwestern U.S. beef (which, with the exception of one dish, Ruth’s Chris proudly serves in ranch-rich Alberta) lacked the “kick” she’s used to tasting in grain-fed Alberta beef (I’m afraid my palette isn’t refined enough to make that distinction). All of the sides were delicious as well – the sautéed mushrooms were lightly coated with savoury garlic butter; the au gratin potatoes were rich and creamy, topped with melted cheddar; and the caramelized-pecan crusted casserole could have doubled as dessert.

For dessert, I ordered the Creme Brulee served with mixed berries and mint. Beautifully presented in a white ceramic dish on a black plate (accented with the reds and the blues of the berries), it was a satisfyingly velvety custard complemented by the warm, sweet crunch of caramelized sugar.

My fine dining experiences are few and far between, but Ruth’s Chris is right on par with other restaurants on the pricey end of the scale. While too expensive for an every day dinner, Ruth’s Chris is worth a try if you are a steak connoisseur, or are looking for an intimate venue for that special occasion.

The Cooking Chronicles: Green Onion Cakes

After many trips to the supermarket shopping for recipe ingredients not readily found in my house, I am beginning to appreciate instructions that don’t call for anything unavailable in my pantry and fridge on a typical day. So on a lazy Sunday, I decided to duplicate Martin Yan’s Green Onion Cakes.

Yan, a popular Asian American chef whose show airs sporadically on PBS, can be considered the Chinese equivalent of Emeril Lagasse. Entertaining, enthusiastic, and always energetic, Yan has unquestionable knowledge about Chinese cuisine. Though I admit to rolling my eyes when I watched him growing up, with the new perspective garnered from the experiences I’ve had in the kitchen thus far, I have to say he does know what he’s talking about (my Mum has commented that Yan’s cooking does pander somewhat to the greater Western audience he serves now, however).

This wasn’t my first try at creating these appetizers – I’d made them with May quite a while ago, albeit with a different recipe. Nothing against Yan, but his method didn’t allow for as many layers as the previous recipe encouraged, and thus, my cakes lacked the desired flakiness. On the other hand, it was my mistake in adding too much pepper but not enough salt, and not rolling each cake thin enough (resulting in half-cooked, but nearly burnt products). Still, I’ll have to figure out why the individual cakes didn’t fry evenly – I’m sure it has something to do with the oil.

The cakes were edible at the end of the day, but I will be hunting down the first recipe for a second go.

Green Onion Cakes

Not for the Impatient: Two Rooms Restaurant

For a pre-play brunch, I suggested to May that we try Two Rooms Cafe (101, 10324-82 Avenue), located in the historic Dominion Hotel. Hosting only seven tables, the restaurant is charming but small. With a warm decor – brown with stone accents, decorative cases, and a water wall – the dining room melded perfectly with the open-concept kitchen (or second “room”).

I was happy that the waitress still let us order from the 9am-12pm breakfast menu at 12:15. May selected the Cinnamon Kissed French Toast, while I chose the Indian-spiced Tofu Scramble. Given the decent staff-to-customer ratio, and the small number of tables to begin with, who knew our meals would take over 40 minutes to prepare?

May was disappointed with her dish, which ended up being much too sweet, overloaded with an intense amount of raspberry puree. My tofu scramble was all right – I’ve never had turmeric in a breakfast dish before, and it did add an interesting kick to the eggs. The potatoes were noticeably good, soft and well-seasoned.

At the end of it, May and I both agreed that we’d be more likely to head back to Murrieta’s than Two Rooms.

Cinnamon Kissed French Toast

Indian-Spiced Tofu Scramble

Satisfyingly Authentic: B-Bim-Baab Restaurant

My fellow Europe-bound companions and I had dinner at an off-the-beaten path Korean restaurant in a southside business park. B-Bim-Baab (9543-42 Avenue) came with Annie’s recommendation of authenticity and quality, and as the rest of us soon discovered, she was spot on.

With dated furniture of the Pagolac variety and aged carpeting, it was clear the decor wasn’t the main attraction of B-Bim-Baab. We decided to split four dishes, and after some discussion, ordered the Dolsot B-Bim-Baab (rice and egg, among other ingredients served in a Hot Stone Bowl), Tofu Yachae Bokum (pan fried tofu stir fried with vegetables), Charp Chae (clear potato string noodles stir fried with seasoned black mushrooms and vegetables), and Chicken Tang Su Yuk (crispy chicken with sweet and sour black bean sauce, tossed with slices of green pepper, red peppers, onions, and pine apples).

The very polite and petite waitresses were quite attentive over the course of dinner, though there was an accident involving chili sauce and Annie’s white hoodie. The dishes arrived one after the other, and all contained generous servings. My favorite dish was probably the B-Bim-Baab, if not only for the novelty of the Hot Stone Bowl. The egg added a creaminess to the sticky, crunchy rice for a texture previously unbenowst to me.
When we left, we were surprised how busy the restaurant was, given it was Friday night, and its location in the ‘middle of nowhere.’ But like El Rancho in the northside, this can be considered another of Edmonton’s ethnic gems.
Restaurant interior
Rice
Bean Sprouts
Kim Chee
Dolsot B-Bim-Baab
Tofu Yachae Bokum
Charp Chae
Chicken Tang Su Yuk

A Black & White Affair: Culina

Ask any of my close friends and they’ll tell you that I carry “the list” with me at all times. This piece of paper contains my culinary hit list – names and addresses of city restaurants I would like to try. Subscribing to the mantra of “always prepared,” I know I’ll have an answer to the question of “Where do you want to eat?”

So on Saturday, I finally made it to the place at the top of the list. Culina (9914-89 Avenue), based on its local recognition and critical acclaim, is the middle-income equivalent of Vancouver’s Vij’s. Brad Lazerenko’s name is eternally on the lips of those in the business, and I had to find out if his Culina really deserved all of the hype.

I made sure to call ahead for reservations, having heard their weekend brunch was quite popular. When Bettina and I arrived just after noon, all but two tables were full. The restaurant was much smaller than I had anticipated – seating capacity couldn’t have been more than 35 tops – and was decidedly chic. Stark contrasts created by eggshell white walls and curtains, black floor, and dark brown furniture translated into a modern, if not slightly cold decor. I know this is a personal bias (which I’ve expressed before), but an enjoyable brunch in my mind must be supplemented with sunshine and possess that feeling of kick-back casual. Amidst the rather formal surroundings of Culina’s dining room with its shrouded windows, I couldn’t help but think it may function better as a business lunch or dinner destination.

Our waitress was on the green side, but did her best to find out the answers to our questions. Bettina ended up ordering ‘the ham and cheese’ (honeyham and edam on grilled raisin bread), served with salad, while I chose the ‘bacon and eggs’ (slow braised bacon, mushroom frittata, potato hash, rye toasts, spicy ketchup).

Our food arrived in a prompt fashion. Bettina didn’t have anything negative to say about her sandwich, except that it was really nothing special. As for my meal – it was different, and definitely showcased the creative cuisine Lazarenko is known for. In place of traditional bacon, the meat portion of the dish was fried pieces of pulled pork. It wasn’t bad, but did take some getting used to. The frittata was topped with a blue cheese mushroom cream sauce, and though I initially winced at the mention of blue cheese, it turned out to be surprisingly good.

I will admit to having unbridled expectations for Culina – both because of how long it took me to eat there and all of the glowing literature I had read. So while I wasn’t entirely disappointed, Culina’s brunch just isn’t for me. I’m willing to give their dinner a shot, but it may have to wait in lieu of their rather pricey menu.

Restaurant interior
Sugar and creamer
Water in a wine bottle
‘the ham and cheese’
‘bacon and eggs’

Un-egg-ceptional: Red Robin’s

Dickson and I decided to head to the downtown Red Robin’s (11215-104 Avenue) for a bite to eat before catching a play on Tuesday night. With friendly kitsch, bright decor, and unlimited baskets of fries, the restaurant is a solid choice for a casual meal.

I love their economical French Onion Soup – served with a slice of cheese toast, it’s the best deal on the menu. This time around though, I decided to spring for the Royal Red Robin Burger, described on the website as, “the aristocrat of all burgers because we crown it with a fresh jumbo fried egg.” Mack and Dickson order it without fail, so I figured I’d give it a shot to see what all the fuss was about.

It was certainly filling (as most of their burger meals are), but between the beef and the rest of the fixings, it was difficult to taste the egg at all. Perhaps I’d have to sample it again, but I’m more likely to stick with my tried-and-true bacon and cheese next time.

Defaced tabletop display (courtesy of Dickson)
Royal Red Robin Burger

The Cooking Chronicles: Lemon Yogurt Cake

Though my time would have been better spent testing out recipes for my upcoming dinner party, I couldn’t resist testing out Barefoot Contessa‘s recipe for Lemon Yogurt Cake. The seminar I’ve been attending this weekend has been serviced by a fabulous caterer, who makes the most delectable citrus pound cake. Needless to say, I was looking to have more of such treats at home.

I used our fancy new Cuisipro Accutec grater I recently bought my Mum to zest a few lemons. With my usual tendency to be careless, I made sure to watch my fingers! I ended up doubling the recipe – baking one batch of mini loaves and one large loaf. The latter took forever to set, after over an hour ten in the oven total (though in fairness, I jumped the gun and took it out much too early). After this experience, I have been reminded of the necessity to conduct the clean toothpick test clear down the middle – at an angle just won’t cut it.

The recipe called for an odd post-baking infusion of sweetened lemon juice. It really only worked for the large loaf, as the smaller portions didn’t burst at the top to allow for absorption of the liquid. I’m not sure if this step is entirely needed, as I found the zest added quite a bit of flavor on its own.

I did like the overall taste, however – the yogurt really contributed to the light and fluffy nature of the cake, especially when compared with its butter-based counterparts. Combined with the freshness of lemon in general, this would be the perfect treat to have on the patio on a warm summer’s night, or out on the grass packed in a picnic lunch. Ina Garten has another winner!

Lemon Yogurt Cake (I really should have taken a picture of the slices…)

Battle of the Big Three: Joey Tomatoes

As we didn’t have time for their famous apple pie last week, Dickson and I headed to Joey Tomatoes downtown (11228 Jasper Avenue) after work today to satisfy his craving.

As those who read my blog using an aggregator know, I am writing this post much later than the date stamp indicates. As such, I have had the opportunity to visit Joey’s a second time before drafting this review, and my opinion has changed slightly in that time for the better.

Besides menu offerings, Earls, Moxie’s and Joey’s – Edmonton mainstays of casual upscale dining – are indistinguishable between their use of dim lighting, dark wood, pulsating music, and club-ready hostesses. Of the three, I prefer Moxie’s simply for their food selection – they have more dishes that I tend to gravitate towards on a day to day basis. I will say, however, that I like the downtown location of Joey’s better than the South Common branch – the table lamps and cozy booths create the feeling of a private dining experience.

On my first outing, I insisted on “real food” to supplement Dickson’s pie, so I thought the Bombay Butter Chicken was worth a try. Though I didn’t expect an authentic meal, I did hope for more than what was essentially curry soup that happened to contain chicken. The sauce was indeed flavourful, but between the inconsequential pieces of meat and bok choy (which had been rendered limp and wilted in the concoction), it wasn’t an enjoyable dish. The accompanying rice was all right, but why the peas weren’t in place of the bok choy was beyond me.

As for the (drumroll) apple pie – on my second tasting, I can appreciate why it is so well-loved. The puff pastry really is the secret, though quite frankly, anything wrapped in puff pastry would taste better. If Dickson was a blogger, he’d have posted about the fact that I challenged the difficulty of making the pie at home. So perhaps when I have exhausted all of the other recipes I have lined up in my culinary queue, I will try my hand at this pie.

As I mentioned above, my most recent experience at Joey’s was an especially positive one. Having come in from the rain that night and feeling vulnerable to a cold, I requested a mug of hot water. Perhaps it is standard practice, and I shouldn’t have been as floored as I was, but the accompanying slice of lime (a la Neocitrin) was an unexpected service-oriented touch. It may have been psychological, but I didn’t end up developing a cold.

Regardless of their intention, I am warming up to Joey Tomatoes. If they retool their menu, they may bump Moxie’s off the top of the big three!

Bombay Butter Chicken
Apple pie!