Five Restaurants I’d Like to See Inside Edmonton’s New Downtown Arena

In all the talk about the arena – the financing, the design – I find that something has been lost. What about the food?!

Sure, I realize the deal still hasn’t been finalized (both the City and the Katz Group can still pull the plug at this point, to say nothing of the still missing $100 million), but given how the arena has been touted as a showpiece not only for downtown, but for Edmonton as a whole, we cannot overlook the food that hungry hockey fans and concert-goers will be served.

I’d like to say up front that I have no knowledge of the Katz Group’s food service plans for the arena; this post is merely a wish list of considerations. As well, although I recognize that if all goes well, restaurants and bars will spring up and flourish around the arena, I’d like to focus on the concessions inside the arena itself.

Citi Field (home of the New York Mets) opened earlier this year, and turned ballpark food on its head. Forget about hot dogs and peanuts – how about a burger from the veritable Manhattan summer staple Shake Shack? Or a lobster roll, crafted by none other than Dave Pasternack, one of New York’s best seafood chefs? Citi Field is by no means unique – it follows a trend of elevating concession offerings that has happened in ballparks all over America in the past few years.

But it’s not just ballparks that are reinventing stadium menus – hockey arenas are getting into the game as well. For example, Madison Square Garden’s Transformation will see several top chefs move in this December, including Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Andrew Carmellini.

I think it would be great to see a similar model for the concessions in our new arena – branded vendors that will elevate expectations of pre-game and game-time meals. While Edmonton may not have such high-profile chefs as they do in New York, I think it is important for the new arena to focus on local businesses instead of on chains. If the arena is supposed to be the jewel in the city’s crown, shouldn’t we embrace it as an opportunity to promote the best of what Edmonton has to offer? Raise awareness of what is uniquely ours?

Although some local restaurants would certainly have to work through issues of volume, as well as having to tweak menus to accommodate the quick-serve concession mantra, I am optimistic that it can be done! So – here are some restaurants that I’d love to see included in the arena, in one form or another:

Delux – one of Edmonton’s most prolific restaurant companies, Century Hospitality Group operates several different brands, including the upscale-casual lounge Hundred (frequented by many an Oiler), posh steakhouse Lux (of which Captain Canada Ryan Smyth is a part-owner), and family-friendly Delux. I think the Delux concept of creative but consistent takes on burgers and fries would be a perfect fit for the new arena, offering a twist on a game staple.
Famoso – this is a made-in-Edmonton success story. Dishing out Neapolitan-style pizzas, fired up in a 900 degree oven, franchises have been proliferating across Western Canada, with five branches set to open up in BC in 2012. Made to order with fresh ingredients, Famoso offers enough variety to satisfy even the pickiest patrons, but also puts together inventive combinations for more adventurous eaters.
Fat Franks – ubiquitous, this Edmonton institution can be found at each major street corner downtown and every festival in the city. But there’s a reason they’re swarmed wherever they go – their ‘dogs are top quality, consistently prepared and served fast. And, with their large condiment selection, diners can make a ‘dog their own! I’d love to see Fat Franks start offering more “limited edition” creations though, similar to their inspired Andy Dog this spring.
The Lingnan – at sixty two years and counting, The Lingnan is Edmonton’s oldest still-operating Chinese restaurant. It sits just northwest of the proposed arena site, with a marquee that recalls the glory days of Chinese food on the prairies. The Quons also run the wildly successful Chicken for Lunch in Scotia Place, with line-ups that stretch fifty deep by noon. Can you imagine getting your fill of Amy’s hot and dry chicken at the arena? Moreover, the family are already ambassadors of Edmonton, currently starring in The Quon Dynasty, their second reality series on television, which airs not only across Canada, but around the world.
Tres Carnales – given the drink of choice at the arena will remain, forever and always, beer, is there a more harmonious pairing than beer and tacos? I can see it now – a taco bar on the concourse! But with Tres Carnales in the kitchen, not only will the tacos be delicious, they will be authentic, too. And if this outlet were to capture even some of the spirit and gregarious nature of its Rice Howard Way location, fans will have a good time, regardless of what the score is.

What restaurants would you like to see set up shop in the new arena?

Culinary Q & A with Phil Wilson (aka Baconhound)

Occupation: Professional Gasfitter/ semi-professional man of leisure.

What did you eat today?

A couple slices of toast w/ peanut butter for breakfast (and a couple Doritos… don’t judge me). Cauliflower soup with a whole wheat roll for lunch (uh, and a couple Doritos… don’t judge me). Caramelized chicken w/ soya sauce and honey, steamed carrots, roasted beets, and roasted smashed potatoes cakes (and a few chocolate covered marshmallows… ah, go ahead and judge all you want).

What do you never eat?

Wallpaper paste. Gave it up when I was 4 years old. Tastes remarkably like Poi. Which I would never eat. Oh, and liver. Can’t even stand the smell of that stuff.

What is your personal specialty?

Not sure I have what you would call a specialty, but I make a mean braised beef, killer mashed potatoes with sweet potatoes and cream cheese, and a kick-ass homemade Bailey’s.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

My nose. I just can’t stay out of there. It’s where I keep my beer, and cheese. (which are always in my refrigerator also)

What is your weekday meal standby?

I’ve always got a couple balls of pizza dough in my freezer courtesy of my buddy Battista at Battista’s Calzone Company. Some cheese, maybe a few pine nuts, pesto, a bit of sausage if I’ve got it and pizza’s on the table in 20 minutes.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

I have 2 that I love. The first is a really good set of tongs. Sturdy and solid, they are like an old friend that never lets you down. The second? A great vegetable peeler. It makes a tedious chore much easier.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Easy. My mom’s Christmas Dinner. Partly because it would mean she was still with us to enjoy it, and partly because turkey, roast potatoes, sausage stuffing, and gravy are awesome. Hmm, might actually need to have a duo of gravy because my wife Robyn’s mom made a pretty heart stopping gravy too.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Over the last few months I’d say Drift food truck for sure. They’ve got it all in one tidy, teal package for the summer. Great food, great people, and you can enjoy it all outside. Although The Next Act Pub has beer…. Hmmm.

Where’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

I’m tempted to say somewhere at the airport, because that would mean I was on my way somewhere for a holiday, but we all know airport food is terrible. So I’m going to say it depends what I’m in the mood for. For fine dining I love the Red Ox Inn. For a delicious, quick dinner and a lively atmosphere I’d say Tres Carnales. But I also love Battistas, Niche, Famoso, Matahari… how could I pick just one?

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I have dreams about attending Memphis in May, the annual National BBQ competition in Tennessee. So much BBQ! And good BBQ is something we really don’t have here.

Keep up with Phil at his blog, or on Twitter.

Kitchen Takeover: Big City Sandwich

Even as the seasons are changing, enthusiasm for food trucks in Edmonton continues. Interestingly enough, the truck that is propelling that momentum into autumn isn’t really a truck at all!

Well, at least not yet. Chris Delaney, owner of Big City Sandwich, will be launching his truck in May 2012. Until then, to help generate some income (and excitement!), he will be taking over kitchens all over town so diners can start getting to know his food (it’s so great that restaurants are open to this concept – it sounds like the arrangement is that the establishment earns the liquor revenue while Chris takes home the food balance). Last month, Chris served a Cuban braised pork sandwich at The Bend Lounge. On Sunday, he was banging out eats at Packrat Louie – Mack and I had to check it out.

Packrat Louie (with small Big City Sandwich signs in the window)

We arrived just after 5pm to a half-full dining room. In hindsight, getting there early was the best decision we could have made; the lobby was soon buzzing with diners waiting for tables – I don’t think I’ve ever seen Packrat Louie so busy!

Instead of the usual silverware, linens and wine glasses, the place settings were made up of a disposable fork and napkin, a reminder of the casual nature of the meal we were about to have.

Place setting

On the menu that night: a smoked beef brisket sandwich with bacon jam ($8), although there was also a vegetarian option. Mack and I both upgraded to a combo ($12) so we were able to select two of the three available sides: Big City beans, slaw or fries (we chose the latter two).

Our orders arrived in biodegradable boxes. The sandwich was topped with a cheesy jalapeno popper which was so tasty (and perfect for someone like me who can’t handle heat). The brisket itself was wonderfully tender, and Mack and I both agreed that the smoky-sweet bacon jam helped elevate the sandwich. The fried onion straws were also a great crunchy addition. That said, the weak link for me was the bread – it was a little too big, and a touch dry.

Beef brisket sandwich

The kitchen was extremely generous with the serving sizes of the sides. The fries had been tossed with some seasoning, but as far as we were concerned, nothing else besides the chipotle mayo was needed. We’re not sure if it is Chris’s signature dipping sauce, but it could definitely become his equivalent of Drift’s house tomato sauce. Not surprisingly, I enjoyed the slaw more than Mack did – I loved the light but creamy dressing, and the unique inclusions of both bell peppers and cilantro in the mix.

A combo box

They were also offering a dessert – pumpkin ginger whoopie pies ($3) from Bluebird Cakes. Mack and I shared one, and found that the dominant flavour was definitely ginger. The cake itself had a good texture though, soft and doughy.

Pumpkin ginger whoopie pie

Based on the response that night, I can’t imagine the line-ups the truck will have when it debuts next year. But until then, according to Liane’s article, Big City Sandwich will be taking over another kitchen near you on November 27. Make sure to get there early!

Supper Club Style: A Dinner at the Queen of Tarts

On Saturday night, Mack and I joined a dozen others at the Queen of Tarts who had snagged a reservation to their first ever dinner. A $45 prix fixe meal, this special event was a way for the cafe to ease into evening service. Although proprietor Linda Kearney has said that she would like to be open for supper more, they are still trying to stabilize the bakery side of things, and are in need of a sous chef (e-mail Linda if you’re interested!).

At any rate, these dinners will feature guest chefs in the kitchen for the time being, which will provide up-and-coming talent the opportunity to showcase their philosophy and skills. The chef on Saturday was Vikram Redganokar, who works with Shane Chartrand at L2. His meal highlighted several local suppliers (nearly all of whom were clearly identified on the menu, something we were happy to see).

It’s worth noting that the Queen of Tarts after dark is much different than the same venue during the day. Unlike its bright, bustling self, with the dimmed lights and jazz streaming through the sound system, the dining area transformed into an intimate bistro. Plus, because we were among such a small number of parties, it almost felt like we were part of an underground supper club, the best kept secret in the city.

Mack, all dressed up!

The meal started with arguably the best bread basket available in Edmonton – how many restaurants can boast house-made bread? Although the crust of the epi didn’t fare well with reheating, it was more than made up by the warm gougères. These little cheese puffs tasted like buttery pockets of air. Thankfully, these pastries are available for purchase in the bakery on Fridays and Saturdays as well – so I know we’ll be coming by soon for another taste.

Bread basket

The soup precluded the amuse that night, and couldn’t have set the bar higher. The roasted organic butternut squash soup had the luxuriously silky texture of a finely sieved mixture, with an underlying hint of sage and a drizzle of Mighty Trio hemp oil. The only downside was that we wished for a larger serving!

Roasted butternut squash soup

An amuse of organic golden beets, and Icelandic rye (featuring Gold Forest Grains rye) followed. Instead of the tiny bowl and fork supplied, this would have worked better served in a Chinese soup spoon (porcelain, of course, to match all of the other dinnerware). Mack, ever the beet fan, loved it, right down to the crisp rocket finish.

Golden beet amuse bouche

Neither of us expected such a generous entree portion. Between the braised Medicine Man Bison short ribs bourguignon, the Sundog Organics root vegetable pavé and the caramelized fennel, I had trouble finishing my plate! The ribs shredded easily with a fork and knife, but I was looking for a sauce that would tie the entire plate together (perhaps incorporating fennel somehow?).

Short ribs bourguignon

Dessert was the only course that Linda herself took care of, a BC apple tart tatin. The pastry, no surprise, was exquisite, baked to a flaky, golden perfection. Topped with a fig jam, hazlenuts and crème fraiche made with Johnson Family Farm cream, it was a sweet end to an even sweeter meal.

BC apple tart tatin

Expect the next Queen of Tarts dinner some time in November. Linda isn’t sure who the guest chef will be yet, but she knows she will be stepping into the kitchen some time in the future to create a menu herself. I’m sure it will be worth checking out!

Queen of Tarts Bakery & Bistro
10129 104 Street
(780) 421-4410

Warm and Welcoming: The Marc

Two weeks ago, I finally made it out to The Marc. At one point this year, The Marc was the “most talked about” establishment, partly due to the lineage that connects it to the dearly departed Il Portico (Patrick Saurette was the restaurant’s general manager). But in the months that followed, it had been supplanted by chatter about Tres Carnales. Even still, The Marc remained on top of the must try lists of many hungry trendsetters.

I found out why. When Jill and I arrived for our 5:30 reservation on Friday, we were among only three parties in the room. By the time we left, the place was packed, with a sizeable group in the lobby still awaiting a table. The atmosphere was lively, no doubt buoyed by the end of the work week, but also cultivated by an attentive staff that made sure diners were well taken care of and never rushed.

The room has already been described many times over, but I wanted to make mention of the mirrors that lined the top of one wall that reflected the flickering candlelight in the room. Between those and the muted earth tone colour scheme of the dining room, the space felt sophisticated and intimate.

Interior, before nightfall

Jill’s first impression was that the tables were much too close together, an eavesdropping distance. But afterwards, she recanted that comment, and said that wasn’t the case – it was a neighbourly, but comfortable, distance. What amazed me (and perhaps is the ultimate compliment about their food) is that I could smell what those next to us were eating – everything was so wonderfully fragrant in the best sense of the word, perfuming the air with the sentiment of sitting in someone’s kitchen.

Jill and I decided to share the venison cheek ($13) to start. It was a smaller serving than either of us had anticipated, but packed with flavour. It was delicate, cooked to melting perfection, and paired so well with the poached pear underneath.

Venison cheek

Jill ordered the seafood stew ($23), which arrived in the pot! The server then spooned a serving into her bowl at the table, perfect for showcasing the intense aromatics of the bouillabaisse. She enjoyed the generous amount of seafood in the stew – hake, clams and shrimp among them – and appreciated the breadbasket refills to help mop up the liquid. Her only quibble was that she found the broth just too salty.

Seafood stew

Though my knee-jerk reaction was to order the steak frites, I thought I should “save” that dish for an upcoming dinner here with Mack (he complains that I like to dine at new restaurants without him). So instead, I chose the pork shoulder confit ($21). It was a very large serving, reminiscent of the braised pork at Niche, and was tender as it should have been. I particularly enjoyed the well-balanced brown butter tomato sauce. The vegetables, however, could have been better – the zucchini was a tad undercooked.

Pork shoulder confit

With too-tempting dessert options, we had to try more than one. Jill’s lemon tart literally made her mouth water as she was enjoying it – how’s that for a thumbs up? The silky custard was perhaps a little too tart for me, but perfect for a citrus fiend like Jill.

Lemon tart

The server didn’t even flinch when I ordered the beignets in addition of Jill’s tart. But the twinkle in his eye when he delivered it to us just dared us to finish the absolutely mountainous plate of doughnuts. Surprisingly, the crispy, warm beignets themselves were not overly sweet, in spite of being coated in sugar. And for an added fun factor, two sauces were provided for dipping: crème anglaise and caramel. We did finish the plate (thank goodness Jill helped me), but we had to walk off our meal at the nearby Legislature grounds afterwards!

Beignets

Based on the service and the food, I wouldn’t hesitate to return. Our experience of The Marc was a very warm and welcoming one, so I’ll be back, with Mack in tow next time!

An Afternoon in Old Strathcona

Mack had a meeting on Saturday afternoon in Old Strathcona, so we decided that it would be a good excuse to spend part of the day there – have brunch, check out the market, go window shopping.

It was such a beautiful fall day, perfect for a stroll. I also love the nuggets that only pedestrians are privy to, such as this sandwich board in front of O’Byrne’s:

We started off the day with brunch at Artisan Resto-Cafe. A 2-for-1 coupon for the restaurant was burning a hole through my wallet with its impending expiry date, so it meant a re-visit was in order – we haven’t been back since we had brunch there almost two years ago.

Unfortunately, it was not a good experience, one plagued with amateur mistakes that cannot be justified by a veteran establishment. It all started with a chaotic front of house. Although a “please wait to be seated” sign seemed to signal that a staff person would be greeting incoming diners, until we stepped up and waived down a server, we received no acknowledgement. Worst of all, without an orderly system, a party of three ended up being seated in front of three other groups that had arrived before them, us included.

After about fifteen minutes, we were ushered to a table with apologies. I know the server did her best, but after forgetting to bring milk for our coffee twice, then failing to refill out coffee at all once our food arrived, it didn’t exactly make up for their poor initial impression.

Our order took about twenty minutes to arrive, but…both of our plates were delicious! Tasty to the point where we really had to shake our heads at the service – the kitchen deserves better! My eggs were creamy, the potatoes fried to a lovely crisp, and the pancake (as it was last time), is one of the best I’ve had in the city.

Country Harvest

Bacon and cheddar omelette

Since brunch took a lot longer than either of us had anticipated, we had to split up – Mack headed to his meeting, and I walked over to the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market.

I haven’t been to the OSFM since March, when the City Market set-up shop in City Hall earlier this year until the transition to the street. It’s always nice to visit though, especially since it is the permanent home of some vendors like Peas on Earth and August Organics who I don’t get to shop from.

It really was all about pumpkins at the market on Saturday – from mini pumpkins to those just waiting to be carved into jack-o’-lanterns to absolutely massive “show” pumpkins.

Mini pumpkins from Peas on Earth

Pumpkins from August Organics

Massive pumpkins from Riverbend Gardens

I also stopped by to chat with Sarah of Belua Designs, and found out that she will be reaching an important milestone soon: 10,000 monsters! She isn’t sure when that 10,000th adoption will take place, but when it does, there may be balloons and confetti to celebrate!

Belua Designs

The warmer weather was perfect for outdoor concessions – Molly’s Eats, Eva Sweet, Fat Franks and the kettle corn trucks were out in full force. But apparently in recent weeks the OSFM concession has revamped their menu to feature dishes that source products from market vendors. I’ve heard nothing but good things – when I’m not so stuffed, I’ll have to check it out next time!

Concession

After some window shopping, I took the bus back home. Before leaving, I couldn’t resist taking a picture of the newly finished (?) Palomar Building. The signage looks great – it makes me want to come back in the evening to see what they look like lit up!

Hope you enjoyed your Saturday as well!

Homeless Connect 7

On Sunday, Mack and I volunteered for the seventh Homeless Connect, the “one-stop shop” of services for those who are homeless or at-risk of being homeless. It takes place twice at year at the Shaw Conference Centre.

Mack!

Homeward Trust always does a great job of coordinating the event (not easy if you consider all of the logistics and players involved), but what is most impressive is that they are never complacent – the staff are always looking for ways of improving the event. This time, for example, they began the orientation period earlier so that volunteers would have a chance to better familiarize themselves with the layout and the services available (something I know I would have appreciated as a new volunteer). As well, they introduced a pre-registration component for the first time.

Registration materials

Mack and I were among a dozen experienced registration volunteers who were asked to help pre-register guests. For about an hour before the doors to the halls opened, we did our best to get through as many people as possible. The intention was to help reduce the bottleneck, and to help service providers better manage the flow of guests – particularly those services which are heavily used, such as dental and hair.

The form, which always changes slightly, will need to be tweaked again. There were way too many options to choose from in the “Where did you hear about the event” question (I’m not sure most volunteers would be able to tell the difference between an “Agency” and a “Service Provider”) and there were a number of options in the immigration-related section that could overlap (e.g. Temporary Foreign Workers and Refugee Claimants could be seeking permanent residence; refugees are likely also landed immigrants). But I realize the data committee just wants to collect as much information as possible to help with future planning, and this event is a good place to do so.

At 10am, we joined the rest of the larger registration team in the hall, and the madness began. Mack and I both figured the numbers of guests this time had to have been extremely high – typically, the line dissipates by around noon, but on Sunday, it was still going strong by the time our shift was over at 12:30.

Registration team!

This was also the first time in the five Homeless Connect events that I have been a part of where I was confronted by a guest who perhaps should have been removed. He was visibly angry and frustrated by the time he reached me at the registration desk – he was upset that he couldn’t get a hot meal right at that moment (lunch wouldn’t be served for another half an hour). Although he had the option of not completing the form, he simply did not want to leave the chair, swearing profusely at several other volunteers who offered to bring him coffee, or take him somewhere to lie down. Two Shaw security officers showed up, but he refused to go with them. Eventually, he filled out the form on his own accord, and stormed off into the hall. While this guest’s behaviour didn’t surprise me (he may have been facing addictions and mental health issues, among other things), what did surprise me was that he was permitted to disrespect and verbally abuse those around him without consequence. I doubt that kind of behaviour would be tolerated at local shelters and drop-in centres, so why would it be accepted here? Hopefully it was just a one-time blip, and not the policy of the event.

Other than that, I really enjoyed my time as a volunteer. It’s such a rewarding event to be a part of, especially when all it takes is a few hours of your time. Kudos to the organizers for another well-run day. Looking forward to Homeless Connect 8 in May!

2011 Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival: Ticket Giveaway!

The Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival is Edmonton’s largest wine and food event. In its tenth year, the event transforms a part of the Shaw Conference Centre into a Grand Tasting Hall, showcasing both wineries and restaurants from across the province. It runs October 21-22, 2011.

It was one of the first wine tasting events that I ever attended, back in 2007. Although there are similar events that have preceded it, and many that have sprung up in its wake, I appreciated the nature of this one. Unpretentious, it was a great way for someone like me who was just starting to explore the world of wine to try a good variety without feeling like I was being judged for my lack of knowledge. That said, I’m sure more experienced wine drinkers would enjoy the festival as well, sampling and talking to the wine reps in the laid-back atmosphere. The list of the 2011 wineries is here.

And the food – at this year’s festival, over three dozen restaurants will be on hand to sample their fare. Restaurants include Creations (featuring smoked corn and leek fondue in mini brioche cups), Guru (offering butter chicken samosas), Niche (serving venison meatballs topped with duck cracklings), Jacek (serving a variety of truffles, such as salted burnt caramel), and the Red Piano (offering red velvet whoopie pies). You can take a look at the full menu here,

Special to the 2011 edition are complimentary Cheese Seminars to be hosted by the Dairy Farmers of Canada. Seminars will offer information, wine pairing suggestions and free Canadian cheese samples.

If you’re interested in attending the festival, make sure to pick up tickets online, which are $5 less than the fee at the door. Sampling coupons (for both liquor and food items) are available on-site at a price of 50 cents each.

I have been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to give away two tickets that can be used to gain admission to the festival on Friday, October 21, a value of $46. A note about the tickets: they are not transferable to Saturday’s session, and sampling coupons will need to be purchased separately. Also, all attendees must be 18 years or older (minors, including infants, are not permitted).

To enter the contest, simply leave a comment below with why you’d like to attend the Rocky Mountain Wine & Food Festival. The contest closes at 5 p.m. on October 18, 2011. I will contact the winner by e-mail that evening and post the name of the winner here. Good luck!

EDIT: Congratulations, Kim O!

All Year Round: the City Market at City Hall

It was an interesting day downtown today – as Mack and I walked towards City Hall this afternoon, we encountered the Occupy Edmonton demonstration in Churchill Square.

Occupy Edmonton

It was peaceful but spirited, with protesters carrying a wide variety of signs and costumed as everything from V to zombies.

With so much activity in the core, we figured it must be just as bustling inside City Hall, but that wasn’t the case. I loved the irony – if even half of the protesters purchased something from a purveyor at the market, what kind of difference would that act make towards supporting small businesses and local economies? Anyway, that’s a different discussion for another day.

Protesters march

Unlike last year, when the City Market didn’t make the leap into City Hall on a regular basis until March, I was excited when it was announced that the transition from street to indoors would be immediate. With a forthcoming marketing campaign on ETS buses and LRT, this edition of the year-round City Market also seems like it will be better advertised. Still, approaching City Hall, one would be hard pressed to guess if anything was going on inside, let alone Edmonton’s oldest farmers’ market. I can imagine the politics that might be involved in proposing outdoor signage for the building, but it would definitely go a long way in raising the profile and visibility of the market.

An unmarked City Hall

Inside, there were about three dozen vendors. Having arrived around 1pm, we figured we missed the rush, but we were told that it had been fairly slow so far.

Quiet aisle

The set-up in the City Room was similar to the spring market, with vendors lining most of the first floor. We asked about the capacity of the space (given there are currently sixty vendors who have signed up to participate this fall and winter), and were told that they have the permission to expand to the second level if need be.

Kuhlmann’s and Doef’s had prime spaces

Apparently the marimba player (who would be familiar to City Market on 104 Street shoppers) had been performing earlier in the day, but had retired by the time we arrived. Unfortunately, there was no ambient music to fill the void that he left – hopefully the Market works on this next week as it felt a bit like a library beneath the pyramid.

Shoppers peruse fruit at Steve & Dan’s

We really weren’t sure which vendors to expect, knowing that many producers have chosen only to sell on select Saturdays (the list of vendors on the website is thus not that helpful). But we were pleasantly surprised at the variety – Doef’s, Kuhlmann’s, Sundog Organic and Steve & Dan’s were on hand for produce; Nature’s Green Acres, Sunshine Organic, Irvings Farm Fresh, Medicine Man Bison and Ocean Odyssey for protein; and Prairie Mill to round out the basics. We missed seeing Van Os Dairy though – it was nice to be able to get organic milk on the same trip as well!

Produce at Sundog Organic

Obviously, Mack and I are thrilled to have a year-round farmers’ market within walking distance of our home, and will continue to support this venture. However, I’ve said it before, but I will say it again – the Market needs to do a better job at informing consumers which producers will be present on which days (their advice on the website is this: “make sure you talk to your favourite vendors and find out their market schedule”). Particularly because vendors will be inconsistent through the season, I really think it would not only help shoppers plan, but help the market as a promotional tool.

Kuhlmann’s

When we approached the information table with this question, we saw they had a detailed matrix of vendors and market dates on paper. We asked why that information wasn’t available online, and we were told they were still learning how to use the new website, and didn’t have the final confirmation for some vendors. Though the Alberta Avenue Farmers’ Market is much smaller, they’ve managed to do this, so there is precedence.

As I mentioned, we will be back next week, but we do hope some minor tweaks will be made to help make this market the best year-round option in Edmonton.

The City Market at City Hall will run every Saturday (except December 24 and 31) from 10am-3pm until May 2012.

A Little Less Lustre: Red Star

Prior to checking out a show at Western Canada Fashion Week two weeks ago, May and I were intent on grabbing a bite to eat downtown. Though our original plan was to meet at MRKT, it turned out the restaurant was booked for a private function. As a result, we ended up heading down the stairs to Red Star (it’s great to have so many establishments within a stone’s throw of one another).

Given it was a Thursday night, we thought it would be much busier than the three small parties present. Perhaps the post-work crowd was elsewhere that evening for happy hour celebrations?

It’s been over a year since I’ve had a sit-down meal at Red Star, and in that time, star chef Daniel Costa had left to open his own popular venture. Although some of the menu items were similar to the old menu, there were a few less items to choose from, especially in terms of heartier dishes. And though I know Red Star doesn’t necessarily strive to be known for its food (the extensive beer menu is what is most often cited), I did appreciate the options before.

May and I decided to share an order of beef carpaccio, and each ordered Pembina pork pasta as a main (two items that remained from Chef Costa’s original menu). Our dishes took a little longer than we would have liked, but I’m sure the kitchen was putting up plates as fast as possible – one of the other tables had ordered food as well.

The carpaccio was not a subtle dish, as there was a little too much lemon and parmesan, overwhelming the beef. On the other hand, I loved the balance of the fresh arugula and the slightly tart and crunchy green apple.

Beef Carpaccio

The pasta was just the right serving size, with a generous amount of pork enrobed in the sweet tomato sauce. Instead of the expected sausage or ground meat in a dish like this, the pork had been pulled; a nice surprise. My only critique was for the meat to have had a fuller texture closer to distinct shreds as opposed to an almost mashed consistency.

Pembina pork pasta

Although Red Star is still a good, low-key option for a casual meal with more creativity than your average pub, I wonder if it has lost some of its lustre since Chef Costa’s departure. This visit wouldn’t deter me from returning again, but I’d likely try some of the other dishes next time.

Red Star Pub
10534 Jasper Avenue
(780) 428-0825

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