Chef’s Table at Hardware Grill

In my family, June is a time for celebration. My Mum, Dad and I all share June as a birthday month, and of course, Father’s Day is a standard observance. This year, for one of my milestone birthdays, I decided the cumulative festivities could justify the Chef’s Table splurge at the venerable Hardware Grill. As it stands, $100 for five courses at the consistently excellent restaurant is reasonable, but it was still nice to have these special occasions to commemorate with my parents.

The Chef’s Table can accommodate up to six, and like any communal table, we were told that we’d likely be joined by a party of two that night. When we arrived, we noticed that the place settings were set for four. The couple never did end up arriving, but we appreciated the heads up nonetheless.

With my parents

The Chef’s Table is located right inside the kitchen, with a perfect view of Chef Larry Stewart and his crew. I’m sure the staff are immune to it now, but I would feel a little odd being observed, fishbowl-style, as I worked. That said, we really appreciated their candor and unaffected behaviour. As we would find out, unlike the nightmare back room scenarios portrayed on television, Hardware Grill is a pristine example of a well-oiled machine.

Our view of the kitchen

A printed menu laid out the five dishes for the night, which would be served over the course of three and a half hours. The meal was so well paced, we had no idea where the time went (it didn’t mean we finished all of our food, however – most of our entrée and desserts ended up in take-home boxes). And though the food was wonderful, what really set the experience apart was the staff. White linens sometimes equal stiff and awkward interactions, but at Hardware Grill, we are always floored by the service. Beyond gracious and professional, as expected at a fine dining establishment, staff are warm, good-humoured and seem to genuinely enjoy their work.

It was also the little things – for instance, we decided to order two wine pairings to share. Without missing a beat, individual glasses were delivered to each of us, a single pour split between two. Although this wasn’t my first time sharing a wine pairing, it was certainly the first time I’ve encountered the generosity of providing a second glass.

Just as the service was measured and executed perfectly, so too were the kitchen dynamics. Chef Stewart received each order, calling out items calmly. The other chefs would quietly get to work on their components, with Sous Chef Jesse Chalmers periodically updating the ETA of the main protein. Communication was paramount, and in this kitchen, was the cornerstone on an effective team. I wrongly assumed dining at the Chef’s Table would be a noisy affair; in reality, the din of the main dining room was noticeably louder than in the kitchen.

Mack observes the kitchen

The first course was a charming way to start off the meal – a bite-size sandwich layered with brioche, lobster, pancetta, arugula and oven-dried tomato paired with a lobster bisque. The photo is a bit deceiving – a heavy hand in the kitchen dealt the lobster.

Soup ‘n sandwich

The salad of buffalo mozzarella and symphony heirloom tomatoes was simple, but made with good ingredients, including a spike of lemon-scented olive oil, was delicious.

Buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad

Mack especially enjoyed the pasta course of hand-rolled goat cheese tortelloni, their creamy centres stealing the show. For me, it was the underlying corn broth that sung – it was skill that coaxed such fragrance and aroma from the corn.

Goat cheese tortelloni with beech mushrooms in corn broth

By the time we reached the entrée, we were already approaching the point of being uncomfortably full. Interestingly enough, we were encouraged to eat the hickory-smoked quail by hand, not something we would have expected. I ended up gravitating more to the vegetables on the plate, in particular to the caramelized cauliflower, lovingly browned in a way that I will try to replicate at home.

Hickory-smoked quail

After the preceding two courses, I was anticipating a light finish to the dinner. Instead, we were presented with a dense, intensely rich chocolate marquise. Even one half the size would have been too much for me, but the dollop of sour cream on top was curious, lending a tang that did not pair well with the chocolate.

Chocolate marquise

Kudos to the staff of Hardware Grill for a memorable experience. If anything, it reminded me that I shouldn’t let too much time pass between future visits to Edmonton’s most respected restaurant.

Hardware Grill
9698 Jasper Avenue
(780) 423-0969

City Market 2013: Week 8

The weather was perfect for City Market visitors on Saturday – warm without being too hot, with blue skies full of sunshine.

City Market square (love the colourful furniture!)

It’s also great to see all of the fresh produce rolling in, week by week. Saturday was no exception, with a greater variety than we’ve seen thus far, including broccoli, cauliflower, fennel, carrots and new potatoes.

Garlic scapes from Sundog Organic

Garlic from Sundog Organic

Kale from Sundog Organic

Broccoli and cauliflower from Erdmann’s

Apricots from Steve & Dan’s

Berries from Steve & Dan’s

Peas from Kuhlmann’s

Radishes from Kuhlmann’s

Beets from Kuhlmann’s

Flowers from Kuhlmann’s

Swiss chard from Kuhlmann’s

Carrots from Riverbend Gardens

Fennel from Riverbend Gardens

Kohlrabi from Riverbend Gardens

New potatoes from Riverbend Gardens

Beets from Riverbend Gardens

I also really enjoyed the beats from Adje Performers’ African drums. They had more than a few people dancing in the square! I hope they’re back at future markets.

Adje Performers

See you next week!

Recap: Heritage Chinatown Night Market

When I heard that the Chinese Benevolent Association was organizing a night market, I applauded the effort. After visiting the Waterfront Night Market in Toronto last year, I started thinking about how something similar could be replicated here – though we don’t have the same level of density or Asian population numbers, Edmonton makes up for that lack in spirit!

What I didn’t know was that the CBA was planning to pull this inaugural event together in just over a month, after the idea came up at the Chinatown Unveiled Conference that took place in May (something I’m more than just a little sad that I only heard about after the fact). As a result, I didn’t know what to expect as a final product, but I’m happy to say that the results should be commended!

Heritage Chinatown Night Market

I was among forty or so volunteers who helped on the day. We were all given (and proudly wore) “I (heart) YEG Chinatown” t-shirts. It will be interesting to see whether or not others embrace this logo as readily as others have taken to “I (heart) #yegdt”.

We love Chinatown

102 Avenue from 95 to 96 Street was closed for the event, which ran from 4-9pm. The Lingnan Express anchored the west side of the street, and offered location-appropriate spring rolls, pork dumplings and crack chicken.

More than a dozen vendors lined the rest of the street, selling wares ranging from art, jewelry, tea, and small toys. On that scorcher of a day, I’m sure tents would have offered a welcome reprieve from the beating sun for both merchants and shoppers alike.

Vendors

A stage was set-up on the east end of the street, and a continuous program offered five solid hours of performances, including martial arts demonstrations, Chinese dancing, choir songs, and spoken word poetry entertained the solid crowd.

Choir

Dancers

And ever the scene-stealer, there was not one, but two lion dances! I’ve seen my share of lion dances, but they always manage to stop me in my tracks – I love the spectacle of noise, colour and drama.

Lion dance!

The event also managed to incorporate a bit of history, with photographic displays of Chinatown past and present. Though organizers had to scrap the walking tours due to the short lead time, they did distribute pamphlets for self-guided walking tours of notable locations.

Displays

As a first time event, I think the Heritage Chinatown Night Market was very well attended! It was especially wonderful to see many generations on the street – Chinese and otherwise! Given the plethora of Canada Day attractions available in the city and beyond, it was a coup that so many chose to stop by the market – I think it speaks to the need for more events like this!

The crowds

As my fellow volunteer Kathryn pointed out though, events at that very site won’t be possible in the near future. With Downtown LRT Connector construction set to start as early as 2015, organizers intent on this night market becoming an annual one will have to contend with some location pains.

With my fellow volunteers Olivia and Kathryn

Bravo to the Chinese Benevolent Association for a well-executed event! For those who may have missed out, you may be interested to know a few of us are working on a follow-up night market to take place later this summer. Stay tuned for the details!

Sundays are for Markets: French Quarter Farmers’ Market

Not all farmers’ markets are created equal. Case in point, the three new markets that have more than doubled the Sunday scene are all quite different. Eden’s Market (which I recognize is still in its early stages), needs to attract more produce and protein vendors to make it a worthwhile grocery stop (instead of just a charming stroll-through). This is what makes the French Quarter Farmers’ Market so impressive by contrast.

French Quarter Farmers’ Market

Mack and I stopped by on Sunday. Situated at La Cité Francophone, the market has taken full advantage of the site. Vendors are located both indoors and outside, with picnic tables scattered in the grass. A busker was performing when we arrived, with a number of people enjoying the music under shaded seats.

Seating

In the short three weeks they’ve been open, they’ve managed to accumulate nearly thirty different vendors. All sell food products, something that sets this market apart from others. Though a select few only vend every second week, those who visit regularly will still have the pick of staple products from Steve & Dan’s, Skyline Greenhouses, Greens, Eggs and Ham and Serben Free Range (I am hoping the website is updated soon with the complete list).

Vendors

We were reminded by market manager Jean-Michel Dentinger that it is a French market after all (we noticed several producers greeted customers in both French and English), so it is no surprise that good cheese (The Cheesiry and Smoky Valley Goat Cheese) and bread (Bonjour Bakery/Treestone) are to be found here.

For those looking for something sweet, Passion Sucre offers baked treats. We were lucky enough to score a care package, featuring not only chocolate croissants, but éclairs and even a #yeg chocolate-dipped strawberry!

Treats from Passion Sucre

Though Eden’s Market definitely takes the food truck cake, the French Quarter Farmers’ Market boasts The Crooked Fork, one of Edmonton’s newest truck. They had run out of their hickory-smoked pulled pork, so we opted for their poutine. It hit the spot!

The Crooked Fork

Poutine

This market also features cooking classes by Chef Elaine Wilson, of Food You Can Cook. Cooking demos are an excellent way to highlight to consumers how they can transform the ingredients they pick up at the market, and are common elsewhere.

We took part in Elaine’s second class (she runs two classes per session, one at 12:30pm and another at 2:30pm). We learned how to make Thai Massaman sauce, a base which she transformed into a delicious beef and potato curry as well as a spicy tamarind soup. Elaine always amazes me with her knowledge, but also her ability to juggle answering questions with the prep tasks at hand!

Elaine is passionate about food!

Elaine normally charges $20 for the class, but for the past two weeks, classes have been by donation, with all proceeds going to Alberta flood relief. Next week, watch Elaine cook up appetizers, a main and dessert for what she terms an “elegant dinner party” – all in forty-five minutes! Sign up in advance on her website, or drop-in if you’re feeling lucky!

Mack enjoys his sample of Massaman curry

In short, the French Quarter market is thoughtful and well-rounded. I’d be interested in seeing how it progresses in identity as a year-round market (especially through the winter, given they are reliant on food producers), but it is a wonderful addition to the city’s market scene.

French Quarter Farmers’ Market
8627 Rue Marie-Anne-Gaboury (91 Street), La Cité Francophone
Every Sunday from 12-5pm

Patio Seekers: The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald

After work on Friday, I was struck with the immediate urge to seek out a patio. If there was a blessing to be had with our recent spell of wet and wild weather, it would be the carpe diem philosophy with which we now approach sunny days.

Living downtown, Mack and I have no shortage of al fresco options within walking distance. From those best suited to soaking up the sun, people watching, or a quiet escape, there are patios to match every mood. On that day, I wanted to enjoy a green vantage point, so immediately thought of The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald.

The Mac

A less formal option than The Harvest Room, The Confederation Lounge has tried in recent years to offer more casual dishes. I recognize it is a delicate balance, as the Mac would not want to jeopardize their bread and butter clientele who prefer the familiar steak and potatoes fare. Still, it would be nice to see the occasional feature menu which might help attract diners who may not select a restaurant based on its views alone.

We were directed to choose a seat anywhere on the patio, all sheltered under a draped metal canopy. It was about a little more than a third full, with most diners appearing to have transitioned directly from the office to begin their weekend. Though the surrounding vista, in all its lush summer glory was exactly what I was looking for, the nondescript jazz being piped from the speakers behind us was unnecessary. I would have much preferred no deliberate soundtrack, as the comforting lilt of the nearby water fountain was fitting enough for the setting.

Picturesque fountain

Not a surprise, prices were on the steep side, both for libations and food. Mixed drinks were $14, and though the menu touted the inclusion of local ingredients, we were reminded of the fact that these were indeed hotel prices.

Raspberry 75 and Triple-Pepper Caesar

We had no intention of having a full dinner, but were interested in some nibbles. Their one-page menu focused very much on salads, sandwiches, and entrée plates, with only half a dozen truly sharable plate options. We settled on the item most unlike the others, a butter chicken poutine ($20).

Service waivered – although our food arrived quickly, our initial wait for service numbered fifteen minutes. Though our server was friendly and seemed like he was doing his best, it was clear he was being run off his feet. With the Hotel MacDonald’s reputation of being customer-driven, we expected better on this front.

However, the poutine itself was great! In our experience, poutines often receive failing grades because of poorly made fries that can’t stand up to the gravy, resulting in a mash of soggy potatoes. The Confederation Lounge’s fries were delightfully crisp, and remained so all the way through. The tandoori chicken (mostly dark meat, cooked until tender) was sauced in a relatively mild dressing, and was a tasty topping for the fries. Our only minor complaint was that the chicken pieces could have been diced further, as poutine shouldn’t require a knife to eat!

Butter chicken poutine

It’s difficult to think of a patio that allows such wondrous river valley views, but based on their current food menu, I’d likely return just for drinks.

The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald
10065 100 Street
(780) 424 5181

City Market 2013: Week 6

With mostly underwhelming weather so far in June, it was great to see sunny skies this morning for the City Market!

City Market

There was a great selection of produce, and one that will only get better with the weeks to come!

Asparagus from Edgar Farms (June 29 will be the last day for asparagus this year!)

Pea tendrils from Edgar Farms

Radishes from Kuhlmann’s

Onions from Kuhlmann’s

Dill from Kuhlmann’s

Mustard greens from Sundog Organic Farm

Mixed heritage greens from Greens, Eggs and Ham

Swiss chard from Erdmann’s

Kale from Erdmann’s

Lettuce from Erdmann’s

Berries from Steve & Dan’s

Cherries from Steve & Dan’s

Gorgeous planters from Springfield Growers

Cookie Love was also out with their bicycle cart today, selling refreshing ice cream sandwiches. Love the decals!

Cookie Love

See you at the market next week!

Sundays are for Markets: Eden’s Market on 124 Street

Sundays are coming up markets – almost overnight, three markets have joined the fray, giving shoppers even more alternatives to the Saturday mainstays of Old Strathcona, City Market and St. Albert.

Callingwood, 10am-3pm at 69 Avenue & 178 Street
South Edmonton Common, 10am-4pm at 151 Karl Clark Road
Eden’s Market on 124 Street, 10am-3pm at 10534 – 124 Street
French Quarter, 12-5pm, 8627 rue Marie-Anne-Gaboury (91 Street)
Edmonton Petroleum Club Outdoor Market, 10am-2pm, 1110 108 Street

I haven’t had a chance to visit the latter two yet, but Mack and I stopped by Eden’s Market on 124 Street on Father’s Day. Located in a small parking lot, the market looks to build on the momentum of the Thursday 124 Street Grand Market, which has managed to attract its fair share of regular patrons with its eclectic mix of food trucks and homegrown and handmade goods.

Though we had noticed premature signs last September announcing a forthcoming market on that corner, Eden’s Market has been attributed to organizer Patricia Cheung’s desire to help the Youth Empowerment and Support Services (YESS) make up its funding shortfall by donating all vendor fees to the non-profit. It’s interesting to note that the South Edmonton Common market also trumpets its support for charities (unfortunately, without too many concrete details about the type or amount of support).

On that rainy Sunday, crowds were scarce. This could have easily been attributed to the weather, but more likely to the Dad’s Day conflict. There were less than a dozen vendors participating (not surprising given the growing competition), including three food trucks.

We picked up some peppered jerky from Andy’s Finest Jerky, and scored some waffles from Eva Sweet. Though it’s not quite big enough to linger for long, it sounds like Eden’s Market will continue to grow as it finds its footing.

They will be celebrating their grand opening on June 23, 2013, with five new vendors, five food trucks, and a lion dance. Here’s hoping for good weather on Sunday and for the rest of the season!

Eden’s Market runs 10am-3pm at 10534 – 124 Street until October 6, 2013.

Recap: What the Truck?! in Old Strathcona

I’m always a worrier before our events, and on Friday, with the overcast skies threatening rain all afternoon, I really wasn’t sure how things would turn out at our first What the Truck?! of the year.

But after it poured in the hours leading up to the start, the skies cleared, and we were blessed with sunny (and dry) skies. And thankfully, the crowds followed!

After a series of successful Truck Stops in McIntyre Park last year, we started considering the location for one of our larger festivals. Central, accessible, with lots of built in seating and grass, it turned out to be the perfect setting for a celebration of food trucks to usher in summer.

It was particularly gratifying for Mack and I to see so many young families in attendance. We always strive to make our events family-friendly, but it seemed even more children were in attendance this time around, dancing, playing with one another, and taking advantage of the open space.

It’s always great to see familiar faces at What the Truck?! – we really appreciate the support – but it’s also nice when we run into those who are attending the festival for the first time!

Allan (of Irvings Farm Fresh) at his first WTT

Mack and I were also excited to try the new food trucks for ourselves (it’s almost embarrassing to admit). Paul Lampa of The Food Fighter laughed when I told him I wouldn’t be sharing my chicken parmigiana sandwich – I knew why after I attempted to finish it on my own. I should have weighed the sandwich – it was beyond generous, and I was defeated by the layers of breaded chicken topped with cheese and a subtly sweet tomato sauce.

Paul of The Food Fighter

Mack chose the cheesy beef sandwich from The Local Omnivore, after learning that they brined the beef for twenty-one days before smoking it.

Mack with his cheesy beef

At the end of the night, most of the trucks had sold out of food. Thank you to those who attended for making the event a success – we hope you had a great time! To help us with the planning for future events, we would appreciate it if you could fill out this survey about your experience.

Events like this cannot happen without support from the community, and we were incredibly fortunate to work with great partners and sponsors. The Old Strathcona Business Association stepped up as a partner from the moment we approached them; a special shout out to Tineke for all of your work! The Strathcona Community League was a sponsor early on as well, and helped us spread the word in the neighbourhood. DJs Thomas Scott (Urban Monks), Rob Clarke and Polyesterday also donated their services – who didn’t want to dance along with them?

DJs Thomas Scott, Rob Clarke and Polyesterday

A final thank you goes to our wonderful volunteers, who were game for anything we threw at them that night! If you found the site spotless, you know who to thank!

We are in the process of planning our events for the rest of the year, but you can expect two more What the Truck?! events this season, and at least one Truck Stop in the coming months. Check back on What the Truck?! for details!

You can see more photos from the event here.

Rosso Pizzeria: Wood-Fired Sustenance

As soon as the weather took a turn for the better in May, it felt like Mack and I were out exploring on foot almost every night. One of the stops at the end of a walk was Rosso Pizzeria, the rebranded 109 Street Da Capo storefront. With the installation of a wood-fired oven in the restaurant, the menu now highlights items prepared in the oven, including house-made bread, fire roasted vegetables, and of course, wood-fired pizza. To remind diners of the force in the kitchen, a floor-to-ceiling shelf piled high with wood greets those that walk through the front door.

The new oven

For a Saturday, I really expected Rosso Pizzeria to be busier, but I wondered if many have yet to learn about their new menu, or the fact that they were now open after a brief closure for renovations. The vibe of the restaurant was still quite low-key, and that was reflected in the clientele – a family with school-aged children, groups of girlfriends and couples, and a familiar site at Da Capo, tables of serious cyclists.

Interior

Mack wines down

We decided to spring for two different pizzas (priced from $13-16) – one red and one white. The former was the night’s special, featuring prosciutto and asparagus, while the other, fungi misti, I knew I had to have after spying it on Liv’s blog.

I acknowledge that crust preference is very personal, and for me, I’ve always leaned towards a crispier crust. While I enjoy Famoso’s fold-over, pliable dough from time to time, my go-to choice is a crust that can hold its toppings. For that reason, I loved Rosso’s crackling base, browned slightly underneath. The sparse ingredients over top was perfect, not weighing down the pizza.

Prosciutto and asparagus pizza

Though I enjoyed my first taste of asparagus this year, my favourite was the fungi misti. The combination of earthy mushrooms and fragrant truffle oil is hard to beat, while the light sprinkling of the fior de latte and tallegio made sure the mushrooms were the focus.

Mushroom and truffle oil pizza

Service never waivered, and we felt well taken care of. Mack and I both wouldn’t hesitate to return – either for a quick lunch or a more leisurely supper. I hope the traffic at Rosso Pizzeria picks up soon!

On our way back home, we made sure to walk through the Legislature grounds to take advantage of a warm spring night. The blossoms were gorgeous, and the post-dinner walk was the best way to end the night.

High Level Bridge

Blossoms

Rosso Pizzeria
8738 109 Street
(780) 433-5382
Sunday-Thursday 10am-10pm, Friday-Saturday 10am-12am

Date Night: La Shish Taouk and “The Soul Collector”

Back in May, we spent a wonderful day in Old Strathcona. After some time perusing the shops along the main strip, we stopped for dinner at La Shish Taouk. Su had raved about their food, but it wasn’t obvious to us until later that this Whyte Avenue location is their third. Funny enough, we used to live within walking distance of their Oliver restaurant…but never once set foot inside.

Taking up a storefront vacated by Crepeworks, the arrangement of a dominant counter and minimal seating up front had been maintained. But pattered wallpaper and a bright red colour scheme did wonders to enhance the narrow space.

Interior

The quick-serve Lebanese menu primarily offered marinated meat options served in pita form, or on plates alongside side dishes. Given we had re-watched The Avengers not too long ago (featuring a hilarious post-credit scene involving shawarma), we knew we would both be choosing the chicken shawarma ($6.95, combo $12.18).

Made to order, the wrap was hot and visually tempting. Even better, it tasted as good as it looked – the meat was moist, and I liked the added texture from the pickles and zing from the garlic spread. The toasted fresh pita was icing on the cake. We also shared a side of fries, and though a tad on the salty side, the shoestrings were crackling crisp, the best kind of guilty pleasure.

Chicken shawarma and fries

We’d never doubt Su’s recommendations, but after this visit, we can see why La Shish Taouk has expanded its presence in the city. Go for the shawarma, but make sure to sneak in some fries.

Satiated, we walked over to the Arts Barns for Catalyst Theatre’s The Soul Collector. Mack and I always look forward to their imaginative productions, a signature being their inclusion of highly stylized costumes and props. As a result, it was really neat that they set-up a Catalyst Theatre photo booth for patrons to dress up in pieces used in previous shows. No question, I took advantage of this opportunity.

A Catalyst character mash-up

I loved the whimsical stage that divided the seating area in half. Framed with cardboard trees and starkly lit, it effortlessly conveyed the barren northern setting for this tale of longing and tragedy. While the story wasn’t as compelling as some of their previous works, perhaps we were just grappling with the surprisingly optimistic ending, atypical for Catalyst. Still, we were transfixed by Karyn Mott’s turn as the lead Memory McQuaid (Mack immediately recognized her from her scene-stealing role in The Crimson Yak) – we couldn’t help but be pulled headfirst into her anguish, confusion and fear.

It was a great night out – the first of many for us this summer, just across the river!

La Shish Taouk
10352 82 Avenue (2 other locations)
(780) 705-1775
Sunday-Thursday 11am-2am, Friday-Saturday 11am-4am

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