Just One of Many: Pho Tau Bay Restaurant

Convinced by coworkers that Pho Tau Bay Restaurant (10660 98 Street) would soon become my new favorite pho haunt, I met Dickson, a fellow pho enthusiast, for lunch there this afternoon.

Like most restaurants in Chinatown, both the storefront and interior are nothing to write home about. The decor is dated, furniture worn and floor in need of a makeover. But for the supposed authenticity and cheap prices, much can be overlooked. Well, it seems their prices went up recently – a medium bowl is now $6.20 (up from $5.60), while an extra large bowl is priced at $7. Of course, for the serving size, it is still very reasonable (and cheaper than Pagolac and Golden Bird), but it seems they will have to do more to differentiate themselves from the crowd at this point.

My coworkers weren’t kidding when they said that there was nothing but pho on the menu – twenty varieties, with combinations of beef flank, tendon, brisket and tripe all available. I was disappointed with a lack of rare or medium rare beef, so ended up ordering a medium bowl of pho with beef balls, while Dickson opted for the extra large with steak, well done brisket, flank, tendon and tripe. This was the only non-dim sum meal I’ve experienced where ordering on paper (checking off the quantity desired next to the dish name) was called for.

Our dishes took no more than five minutes to prepare (reminding me very much of Pho Hoa), which was either really efficient or, as we were joking, cause for suspicion. Dickson thought my serving was rather small when compared with others like Hoang Long and Pagolac, but for a lunch meal, I was satisfied with the size. The dish itself though was a bit disappointing – the broth was a tad salty, and overall, we both longed for bowls from any of the other eateries mentioned above.

While we may have been let down by Pho Tau Bay in part because of extremely high expectations, with so many other great pho spots in the area, I’m not sure we’ll be back to give it a second chance.

Pho Tau Bay

Interior

All-pho menu

Beef Ball Pho

Special Pho

Fish Heaven: Billingsgate Lighthouse Cafe

Mack’s Grandma always recommends two places when we ask for suggestions of where to buy seafood: Boyd’s (103, 979 Fir Street, Sherwood Park) and Billingsgate Seafood Market and Lighthouse Café (7331 104 Street). We decided to let the experts prepare the fish and headed to the latter on Wednesday.

On a gloomy, cloud-ridden evening that Mack thought fittingly cast an east coast feel, we entered the market. It may have been the foreboding weather, but we seem to have missed the dinner rush, as the market was devoid of shoppers. We did a quick round through the cases and freezers, but our empty stomachs soon drove us to the end of the hallway and into the Lighthouse Café.

Our reservation wasn’t necessary, and we were seated right away in the circular lighthouse-shaped dining area. It was very dimly lit, relying heavily on the natural light from the gradually darkening sky. From the outside, I thought the interior would be quite kitschy, but instead, the décor was charming and tasteful. A small lighthouse-shaped candle holder was on the table, and pictures and figures of various sea creatures were plentiful yet not dominating in any way.

I appreciated the short introduction of the café on the inside of the menu, detailing the history of market having to evolve to meet customer requests for prepared seafood. As expected, the menu contained a few dishes entirely devoid of seafood (pasta, risotto, chicken, steak), and a variety of fish, scallop, shrimp and lobster entrees that drew from the market’s fresh inventory.

Both of us knew our order even before the menu was opened – the Lighthouse Fish and Chips, made with pacific halibut filets prepared with a light batter, served with coleslaw, tartar sauce and fries (one piece for $10.95). Mack also wanted to give their Lighthouse Calamari a go ($8.95).

Service was consistent through our meal, and our waitress was always just around the corner ready to fill up our water glasses. The calamari arrived after a short wait, topped with red onions and served with a chipotle aioli and a marinara sauce. I preferred these buttermilk-coated rings to the heavier batter found at the likes of Earls and Mr. Mike’s, but Mack disagreed.

We were still snacking on the calamari when our mains arrived. The bloated halibut, unfortunately resembling a corndog, looked like it had just been picked up from a midway vendor. I was hoping the fish hidden inside the crispy, glistening crust would taste fresher than the frying oil used, and though it was fork-flaky, it was also disappointingly dry.

We received two Ovation mint chocolates with our bill, which was a nice touch, but still didn’t make up for our lacklustre entree. Mack acknowledged that we probably ordered a dish not demonstrative of their seafood catalogue, so we may be back in the future for fish not fried.

Billingsgate Seafood Market

Lighthouse Cafe

Seafood Market

Dining area

Lighthouse Calamari

Lighthouse Fish and Chips

Food Notes

  • Vintage (10124 124 Street), the new lounge that replaced Mangiamos, is now open. I peered in the windows on Sunday, (very Eater of me, I know), and it looks very much like Suede Lounge – movable ottomans and low tables – but about half the size. Pick up the NextFest program in this week’s See Magazine for a coupon that entitles you to a free tapa at Vintage.
  • I love this concept of  deVine’s “Taste the Season: A Traveling Tasting” event. Partnering with local eateries, guests will sample plates from Ric’s Grill, Characters, and TZiN, all paired with exquisite wine selections. $90 seems a bit pricey to me, but it’s a great way to walk your way through one of Edmonton’s great food districts.
  • Kerstin’s Chocolates recently started their own blog! The Cocoa Room will be offering a special $5 tasting plate on Saturday, June 7, with a sample of very special chocolate made from a rare variety of cacao, and as well as a new Chocophilia variety. They will also be offering free hot chocolate all day. Head to their shop at 10139 112 Street to check it out.
  • See Magazine released their annual “Best of” survey results this week. It’s a mixed bag of results to me (glad to see that Route 99 was recognized for the 2nd Best Poutine, and the Italian Centre for Best Deli, but the fact that Taco del Mar placed at all for Best Mexican, and  the Wok Box earned number one as the Best Take-out makes it hard to take too seriously). I did like Scott Lingley’s personal list, however, and many of the restaurants he included are on my hit list to try (Tau Bay, Handy Bakery, Viphalay).
  • Judy Schultz contributed to the Bistro section again this past week with a story on asparagus producers Edgar Farms. I’m not sure whose decision it was to have Liane Faulder start in the summer and not the fall, but it really does take away from her new take on things with Judy’s columns appearing on almost a weekly basis.
  • Mack sent this to me (who else would?) about a “BarCamp” style cupcake tasting called CupcakeCamp. Too cool.
  • Alex Witchel wrote a great nostalgic piece on those iced cakes of our childhood – reading it made me want to go to a bakery straightaway to relive the delicious magic.
  • Speaking of cake, has anyone tried the Tuxedo Truffle Mousse cake from Save-On Foods? I bought a small one for a dinner I attended recently, and though I find that cake and icing alone are enough to satisfy me, I loved the variety in this case.
  • I purchased a Fruit Flan from Sobeys Urban Fresh, hoping that it would be as good, if not better, than one I had from Sunterra. Unfortunately, it looked better than it tasted, though it may have been my fault for leaving it too long in the trunk of a car.

 

Fruit Flan from Sobeys Urban Fresh

We All Scream for Ice Cream: Marble Slab Creamery

As someone who enjoys, but doesn’t love ice cream, the success of Marble Slab Creamery in a city with a long winter surprised me. And while a location on the pedestrian-friendly Whyte Avenue made sense to me, the South Edmonton Common outlet boggled my mind – wouldn’t it make more sense to drive to the nearby Superstore to buy two pints of ice cream for the same price?

At any rate, I had a 2-for-1 coupon to blow, and Mack had a craving for chocolate chip cookie dough ice cream, so we found ourselves at the South Common branch (1919 98 Street) at dusk on Saturday night. For whatever reason, their business was through the roof that evening – the line just kept getting longer. We had no idea why though – it was not particularly hot and most of the stores in the area had already closed hours before.

We both decided on a scoop of vanilla ice cream with a mixin of chocolate chip cookie dough ($4.95 plux tax). I can’t say I am particularly adventurous – in the few times I have been to Marble Slab, I don’t think I have ventured outside of this classic combination.

We had a few bites of our ice cream before taking it outside – the ceiling fan could not keep the small, overcrowded shop cool enough for our liking. But with just one small bench outside (and no trash can!), we resorted to standing just beyond the growing line, to watch with some amusement the cars that drove by, saw the line, and left.

Sadly, we both found something missing from the ice cream that night – the cookie dough tasted a little nuttier and less sweet than I remember from past trials, while Mack remarked that the waffle cone was probably the best part of his treat – not a compliment to a franchise that emphasizes its daily-made ice cream.

While I can’t say I won’t ever be back to Marble Slab, without a coupon, it’s definitely less likely.

Cone options

Mixin options

The crazy line-up!

Mack likes ice cream

Like Wok Box, Only Better: Thai Express

After picking up some flowers to bring to Felicia’s commencement at the Jubilee, I stepped down to the food court at the City Centre Mall looking for a quick bite to eat before the ceremony. I headed straight to Thai Express, tucked beside Good Buddy just underneath the stairs. I noticed it a few months ago, and thought it looked exactly like a place I visited while in Vancouver last year. Turns out, Thai Express has locations all over Canada – I had no idea.

Between the curries, the soups, and the stir-fried rice and noodles, I decided to opt for my standard order of Pad Thai ($5.59 for the vegetable option). Being the only one in line had its advantages – my dish was freshly prepared in under three minutes, and absolutely smoking hot when I opened the box at the table. The staff were super-friendly, and as a peanut lover, I appreciated the container of crushed peanuts available to customers to self-garnish their orders.

Though I adore the Chinese take-out box packaging, I think it is meant more for things like dry ribs or fried rice – dishes where it isn’t necessary to thoroughly mix the dish first; it was a bit challenging to ensure that all of my noodles were evenly coated with sauce which had accumulated at the bottom of the box. Unlike Wok Box though, where I find the vegetables included to be quite sparse, this serving was chock full of bean sprouts, green and red peppers, onions, broccoli, carrots, and baby corn.

So for the price, the portion size, and the efficiency at which my order was processed, I’d visit Thai Express over Wok Box again any day, even sans coupon.

Freshly made-to-order

Boxed and ready to eat!

Pad Thai topped with peanuts

June is for Festivals

It’s been a while since I’ve put together one of these, but here are some upcoming events of interest (many, if not most, are free of charge to attend) in River City.

  • I’ve been meaning to tag along one of the free Discover Downtown Walking Tours since the Downtown Business Association started the promotion a few years ago, but it’s difficult given the weekday hour. At any rate, if you can spare some time during the day, these one hour tours will be offered on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from 1-2pm starting June 2 – August 20.
  • The Edmonton Film Society continues their “Ye Olde British Comedy” series through to mid-June. Just $5 a screening!
  • The first ever Creative Age Festival, which runs June 2 – 8, highlights “arts and aging by showcasing arts-based workshops, performances and events, including special film screenings and an Arts Café”.
  • From June 4 – 7, the Dreamspeakers International Film Festival will celebrate the best of Aboriginal films through screenings, workshops and events.
  • Heart of the City: Music & Arts Festival 2008, a community celebration of the diverse music and arts scene in the city’s downtown core, is taking place on June 7 at Giovanni Caboto Park (95 Street & 108 Avenue).
  • Take some time to meet with local producers on June 8 & 9, for the Spring Time Family Drive, where 10 farms open their gates to the public for tours, children’s activities, and shopping. The Summer Family Drive will take place in early August if you can’t make it in June.
  • The now Epcor-sponsored NextFest, taking place June 5 – 15, features 10 (plus the gala) days of performances, visual art displays, and more.  
  • The annual Pride Awards kick off the always spirited Pride Week 2008: Unmasked and OUTrageous. Lunches, film screenings, and of course, the celebrated parade can be attended between June 13 – 22.
  • I had no idea this year would see the 11th incarnation of the City’s River Day, being held on June 14 this year. Free family events include a pancake breakfast, paddling sessions, fishing lessons, and boat demonstrations, all at Rundle Park.
  • Also on June 14 is the Hermitage Park Family Fishing Event – for $5/family, you can fish away!
  • Improvaganza, Rapid Fire Theatre’s annual improvisational comedy festival, runs June 18-29 at the Varscona Theatre. Tickets are $10 for each show (with the exception of the Grande Finale), but there are two pay-what-you-can, family-friendly shows on Saturday afternoons.
  • National Aboriginal Day celebrations will be taking place from June 18 – 24, with everything from drumming performances, art displays, and outdoor barbeques to take part in.
  • The noted Edmonton International Jazz Festival runs June 20 – 29. Though most of the concerts require paid tickets, there are a number of free outdoor events and workshops to look forward to as well.
  • Art lovers have probably been looking forward to the June 20 – July 2 Works Art & Design Festival all year.
  • Airfest, billed as an “aviation extravaganza” has been growing every year, and will be held on June 22 in 2008. Check out the Alberta Aviation Museum website for updates.

Have fun!

EDIT: an ad in Vue Weekly reminded me about a festival I forgot to include: June is also Bikeology month, with drive-in movies, mocktails mixed by blenders hooked up to bikes, and free tune-ups. Check out the website for full details.

The Scent of Summer: Fat Franks

Ubiquitous in the warm months on street corners all over Edmonton’s downtown core, Fat Franks is a bonafide Edmonton establishment. In addition to 8 trailers stationed at Canadian Tire stores, 11 outdoor stands covering territory from High Street to the Law Courts, a Whyte Avenue location open 9 months of the year, there are two year-round operations: one at the River Cree Casino and another in Commerce Place.

I didn’t know about the Commerce Place location until recently, when a piece in Avenue Magazine caught my attention in December. It turns out it opened in October 2006, and has been satisfying customers ever since.

Some hot dog trivia (from a board at the back of Fat Franks):

  • “Hot Dogs” were first introduced in 1904 at the St. Louis World Fair. The name “Hot Dog” comes from the early NY City vendors who used to yell out “They’re hot, get ’em while they’re red hot”
  • Mustard is the most common condiment used on hot dogs
  • Fat Franks has served over 1 million hot dogs since 1995. That’s 3 million feet if put in a straight line; 134, 000 Kilos of meat, 113,000 kilos of bread & 32, 500 kilos of mustard!

Walking into the food court this afternoon, I almost missed Fat Franks – they really should have flashier signage, or at the very least, use all of the banner room provided above their space.

I took some time to peruse their menu. All of their hot dogs are made with 80% beef and 20% chicken (and no by-products). I had the choice between a Junior Dog ($2.60) to an Avenue Dog ($4.85) with bacon and cheese. I went somewhere in between with my order of a Jumbo Dog ($3.60). A variety of smokies were also on the menu, including honey ham, jalapeno & cheddar, and Italian, all priced under $5. Sides of fries were also available ($2-3), though after seeing their morning offer of a breakfast sandwich with grilled egg, bacon or sausage links and cheese, I almost wished it was still early.

The friendly attendant had my hot dog ready in seconds. I’m not too keen on toppings (I think it takes away from a really juicy hot dog), so with a little drizzle of ketchup, I was done. Before I left, I made sure to get a “Customer Appreciation Card” stamped – buy 10, get 1 free. I’m not sure I’ll be back often enough to warrant carrying a card in my wallet, but I should have asked whether or not it was valid at the various outdoor locations as well.

I sat down at one of the tables next to the window and inhaled the fragrant scent of a grilled hot dog – it is a smell that easily transports me to campfires and backyard barbeques. Between the toasted, crispy bun, the slightly charred dog, and the sweet tang from the ketchup, I was thoroughly satisfied.

While I’d probably have to have two dogs to make it a proper meal, one indoors was enough. Next time – I’m hitting up the carts.

Fat Franks in Commerce Place

Jumbo Dog

Revisiting Sobeys Urban Fresh

Quite a lot has been written about the recent opening of the European-style, small-scale Sobeys Urban Fresh supermarket (10404 Jasper Ave). Most, if not all comments, are positive.

Sobeys Urban Fresh

Space-saving shelves for produce (they also sell baby versions of most vegetables you can think of)

Dried mushrooms…in bulk!

Don’t get me wrong – there’s lots to love about a pedestrian-centered, neighbourhood market emphasizing the use of only the best ingredients. But then there are some things that I’m not so sure about, or at least, prevent me from patronizing the store more often.

The Good

  • For someone who doesn’t drive, not having to navigate a massive parking lot to get to the front doors of the store is definitely a positive.
  • Small portions, such as beef patties sold in pairs, or bread sold by the slice (29 cents/100 grams), are perfect when you only need enough for one or two.
  • I’ve mentioned them so many times I wouldn’t blame the average reader for thinking I have shares in Greens, Eggs and Ham, but in conversation with Mary Ellen the week before, she said the fact that their products will be stocked year-round will help their farm a lot. I am sure that the promotion of other local products (such as coffee from St. Albert’s St. City Roasters) is helping with citizen recognition of what Alberta has to offer.
  • Perhaps a more personal compliment – I love the wide counter spaces in the Bistro that overlook Jasper Avenue. Though the patio is great, the well-lit windows on the world provide a comfortable work area. Armed with a cup of coffee, I could easily read or work the afternoon away there.

 

Coffee from St. City Roasters (and very girly stationary)

  • I think the homage to the past (present in the menu page discussing the origins of the Cecil Hotel, the original building at that site, and the black and white print of the hotel displayed just above the fireplace in the bistro section) deserves recognition, particularly for this area of downtown. With the word “revitalization” being thrown around so often, I think it is important even for a city as young as Edmonton to pause and acknowledge its history.

 

Jasper 104th Bistro (the print of the Cecil Hotel is on the right)

The Bad

  • An article about Sobeys Urban Fresh that appeared in the Edmonton Journal just before the store opened indicated that this location had a partnership with the City Centre Market. If that “partnership” is limited to simply opening up its side doors, what’s the point? At least, that is all I’ve seen so far, two weeks and two trips on Saturday to 104th Street and Jasper Ave.
  • Despite the fact that Sobeys is closer to me from my office, I have chosen to trek to the Save-On Foods on 109th Street instead on several occasions to have access to a larger selection. Particularly when I don’t know the meal I’m putting together, or am not sure which specific brand I am going to pick up, having options is more handy than a shorter distance to walk.
  • I’ve been to the Sobeys quite a few times, and have found it much too busy for my liking. Bustling and vibrant it is, but to be honest, I’d actually prefer shopping late at night to avoid the crowds if given the choice. And though there are areas in the store that are wide open (Bistro, bakery, produce), the small canned and boxed goods section have narrow aisles that make it difficult for two people to peruse opposite sides of the aisle at the same time. A tad too claustrophobic for my liking.
  • I’m a sucker for self-serve checkouts, and feel quite competent with them in supermarkets. So with the limited number of tills at Sobeys, and the relative speed I can get through the check-out process at Save-On (where I have never stood in a line to wait for a self-serve machine), it should be no surprise that Sobeys loses out on this as well.

The Interesting

Lastly, I’ve found no mention of the difficult dilemma and reconciliation of the two sides of Sobeys Urban Fresh. A store that proudly supports the organic, sustainable and environmentally-friendly (demonstrated in their produce, products sold, and reusable grocery bags) is the same store that generates massive waste from their one-time use packaging in the deli.

Perhaps it’s a “pick your poison” type of mentality – I know I keep my nylon shopping bag tucked in my purse at all times, but at the same time, I don’t think twice about using a disposable coffee cup.

At any rate, I do think this is a contradiction of sorts that should be getting some kind of play in the media.

Ready-to-eat options from the deli

It’s not fair to say I won’t be back to visit Sobeys Urban Fresh (I love how 104th Street is developing) but if I am in need of a meal or groceries, you will probably find me at Save-On instead.

The Best Weekends are Fresh: City Centre Market

This post is coming a bit late, covering our trek to the City Centre Market on its opening day of May 17, but as the market is open every Saturday, from 9am-3pm (rain or shine!) until Thanksgiving, there’s no excuse for you not to check it out!

 

Market Day

We started the day with brunch at my favorite pre-market haunt, Blue Plate Diner (10145 104 Street). It was filled to the brim, but they managed to clean and clear a just-vacated table for us almost immediately. While I originally thought I ended up with a dish outside my usual repertoire, it turns out my order of the Pancake Breakfast ($11.50) was the exact dish I ordered back in September – after my last trip out to the market. Mack decided on the Eggs Benny ($12), and of course, we both asked for coffee to start us off.

The kitchen was on an absolute roll, so despite the packed house, our food did not take long at all. The pancakes were great – giant by any comparison, they were thick and fluffy, perfect for sopping up the real maple syrup supplied on the side. Mack liked his benedict for the most part, though wanted the dish, particularly the hollandaise, to have been served a little warmer.

Pancake Breakfast

Eggs Benny

Full and ready to walk off some of our morning meal, by the time we got back out to the market (104 Street, between Jasper & 103 Avenues), it was already past 12:30pm. And as they say, only the early bird gets the worm, so many of the popular vendors had already sold out of their wares.

“Sorry, Sold Out”

Luckily, one of my favorite vendors – Greens, Eggs and Ham, had plenty of duck eggs still, and I picked up a few for my Mum. Mary Ellen Grueneberg was super-friendly, as always, and said that the piece that Judy Schultz did a few weeks ago resulted in many calls – from interested employees, pet owners, and of course, those keen on their duck products.

Greens, Eggs and Ham truck

Doef’s Greenhouses also had a beautiful array of tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and cucumber (all grown year-round) that looked so tempting, especially in the face of the winter vegetable remnants sold at stands next door. As with most growing seasons though, things will look up in just a few short weeks – with fresh berries, beans, and corn just around the corner.

Tomatoes!

Vegetables!

For those with a green thumb, there were plenty of potted plants available as well, though really, I can’t wait for the spicy edible flower salads from Inspired Market Gardens.

Plants from Inspired Market Gardens

Between the entertainment and the stalls, the samples and the snacks, there is lots for everyone to see. Mack, however, was waiting to pounce on the mini-doughnuts, and was rewarded for his patience.

Live music

First doughnuts of the season

Mack savours the last one

City Centre Market

There’s just nothing like a Saturday at the market.

Chinatown: Treats from my Childhood

Besides easy access to reliably inexpensive eats, my newfound proximity to Chinatown also allows me to relive my childhood. Through food, that is.

While the growing diversity of Edmonton’s population means ethnic products are readily available at some major supermarkets, nothing beats the selection and one-stop-shopping convenience at an Asian grocer.

I ended up at 99 Supermarket (10768 99 Street) on a random weekday recently, and was amazed with all of the treats I stumbled upon that I used to consume voraciously as a child.

I always find such colorful displays missing from Western supermarkets

The incredibly tempting cookie aisle – death for dieters to visit

I once handed out Pocky, thin chocolate (or strawberry, or vanilla, or…)-coated cookie sticks to my coworkers one Christmas. Though most of them hadn’t heard of Pocky before, I think the friendly packages are capable of bringing a smile to anyone’s face!

 

Nearly everyone in my elementary school class had one (or two) of these savoury cookie packages in their lunch kits every day. Satisfyingly salty, crunchy, and light, they’re like a Chinese equivalent to a rice cake. Asian producers definitely had the pre-sized snacks down pat ages ago.

 

Death to those with a peanut allergy, these caramel-coated pieces are a sweet, filling alternative to the more prolific sesame cookies. Made with peanuts, they also taste more substantial.

And who could forget the chip selection?

 

Our receptionist once stashed a family-sized bag of these shrimp crackers at her desk. Needless to say, they were gone within the day.

 

More oily and less crunchy than shrimp crackers, cuttlefish snacks just magically melt on your tongue. You’ll just have to try it and see for yourself.

Of course, relatively healthy snacks exist at the supermarket as well. One example are the packages of preserved mandarin peel. My sisters used to love to chew on these tangy bits of fruit – a bag can be head for just 69 cents!

Preserved Mandarin peel

Lastly, in the drinks aisle, I came across Milk Tea. Separated into individual, one-glass servings, the dry mix contains coffee, sugar, and milk powder. Iced, the sweet drink is perfect to be sipped out on a patio on a warm summer evening.

Milk Tea

Now that I know what is available just a few minutes away, it will be awfully difficult not to simply run over to one of the supermarkets every time I have a craving for a treat from my childhood.