Category: travel

Eat Until You Burst: T. Pot China Bistro

Craving dim sum in Calgary, my family (and Mack) hit up T. Pot China Bistro on Felicia’s recommendation. I was a bit leery if not only because of the name (any Chinese restaurant that attaches “bistro” at the end of it wouldn’t appear to be the most economical).

Though we had an idea that the restaurant was in northwest Calgary, we didn’t realize just how far north until the drive. We were nearly into Airdrie when we hit the small retail area that contained, among other shops, a T & T.

T. Pot is not much to look at from the outside, being a generic big box. But it was quite lovely on the inside, with beaded curtains, crystal chandeliers and cushy high-backed chairs. And while their dim sum wasn’t the fun push cart kind, a few staff members wielded plastic trays as their push cart-equivalent, and offered us plates of food from their arms.

Interior

The area to the back of the restaurant where we were placed steadily filled up during our visit, but was never completely packed, unlike the other dining area separated from us by a median. Items were priced from $3.99 to $5.99, which are above the norm, but once the dishes started to arrive, we understood why: we were either given double the quantity normally provided, or items were twice the size of those commonly seen. Case in point, the steamed shrimp dumplings ($4.99):

Shrimp Dumplings

Standout dishes for me included Chinese doughnut wrapped with rice crepe and the pan-fried pork dumplings. Overall, we were pretty impressed with the quality of the dishes. Here are just a few of the plates we ordered:

Chinese Doughnut Wrapped with Rice Crepe (served on one side with some oddly paired peanut sauce)

Rice Crepe with BBQ Pork

Bean Curd

Coconut Buns

Pork and Shrimp Dumplings

Pan-fried Dumplings (beautifully arranged to boot!)

Deep Fried Pork Dumplings

Needless to say, we all ate until we nearly burst, and still ended up with leftovers. Ordering by paper always seems to have that effect – T. Pot China Bistro: 1, Yeo Family and Mack: 0

I’m glad we had the opportunity to try out the restaurant – I’d recommend it for dim sum off the beaten path in Calgary!

T. Pot China Bistro
100, 9650 Harvest Hills Blvd. NE
Calgary, AB
(403) 532-3982

For More Than Just Sushi: Globefish

For our dinner selection in Calgary, I was pushing for Pulcinella, a Neopolitan pizzeria (similar to Famoso), but resolved that the decision would be a democratic one. I lost.

We ended up at Globefish, as my sisters and parents all put in their vote for sushi. As I rarely eat Japanese cuisine (and never sushi), I am not well-schooled in this category of restaurants, but by way of blogs and Fast Forward surveys, I had heard Globefish was popular. Using the powers of Google, we found the closest location to our hotel, and on our way, called to make sure they were open. While they didn’t accept reservations, their table availability looked good.

Oh how fast things change on a Saturday night – half an hour later, we arrived at the restaurant and faced a forty minute wait. Hungry, we considered bolting for the nearest recognizable chain, but figuring that most restaurants would be similarly flushed with the weekend rush, we stayed.

While in the waiting area, we perused the menu, and held ourselves back from defacing the autographed photos of Calgary Flames players on the wall. Among the sushi options were a Flames roll and yes, even an Iginla roll (a little counterintuitive though, no? As “flames” conjures images of cooked food).

The interior of the restaurant was simple but classy. Leather booths helped create a sense of privacy for dining parties (to the detriment of maximizing seating availability), and crystal chandeliers provided a chic accent normally not seen in Japanese restaurants.

My family at an opposite table (we opted to decrease our wait by sitting apart)

Time to linger with the menu prior to being seated meant we were ready to order straightaway. A perky waitress provided attentive service throughout the night, and the kitchen definitely helped speed things along – Globefish was darn efficient.

Mack and I both prefer things cooked, so skipped right over the sushi platters and onto the hot entrees. We eventually settled on an udon noodle bowl ($9.95) each – beef for me, and tempura for him. Mack, ever the calamari lover, couldn’t resist ordering a plate of their mentai version to start ($8.95).

Sushi platters were arriving haphazardly at my family’s table (as they were made), while our calamari zipped out to us in no time at all. Mack really enjoyed it, as the dish employed a seasoning zing not usually found in calamari.

Mentai Calamari

My beef udon bowl was good – the noodles had retained their requisite chew, while the broth was clear and not over-seasoned – but nothing special. Mack’s on the other hand – I had a serious case of dish envy after sampling some of his tempura. The batter was light, crispy, and enhanced whatever it enrobed – from the shrimp to zucchini, I was amazed that they were able to preserve the crispness and succulence of the vegetables, so didn’t blink before I regarded it as the best tempura I’ve ever had.

Beef Udon Noodle

Tempura

My sisters and Mum enjoyed their sushi plates, and though I wanted more detail about why they liked their food so much, all I got was a response of “It was good.” Sigh.

 

Crunch & Munch Roll (prawn tempura, cucumber & tobiko roll wrapped with unagi & avocado)

Roll Combo (California roll, dynamite roll, spicy tuna roll)

Favourite Sushi Combo (tuna sushi, salmon sushi, California roll)

For a fast and satisfying meal, I’d heartily recommend Globefish – even if you aren’t into sushi.

Globefish
326 14 Street NW (1 other location)
Calgary, AB
(403) 283-6555

Weekend Road Trip 2009: Family Edition

During the long weekend in August my family (plus Mack) did something we haven’t done in a long time – take a road trip together. The destination wasn’t far – just Drumheller and Calgary – but while neither the time spent or the drive down was particularly long, it was such a throwback to summer vacations in the past that it didn’t matter.

Drumheller’s a sightseeing haven

Our first stop in Drumheller was lunch. I looked in vain prior to the trip for some independent dining recommendations in a chain-saturated town, but couldn’t find much. I decided upon The Whistling Kettle, mostly due to its quaint exterior, but when we arrived, we found it closed due to a death in the family. We walked back towards main street and after surveying very limited options (for whatever reason most of the restaurants were closed on Saturdays), decided upon Gus’ Corner Restaurant. The food really isn’t worth mentioning; everything was coaxed back from frozen hibernation.

After lunch, we walked over to the tacky-but-clever World’s Largest Dinosaur attraction. Tacky because really, it’s just a large covered metal staircase, but clever because tourists seem to flock to it (it has even won a national award). Priced at $3 per person or $11 for a family of five, it’s a “why not?” type of expense, and yes, our family succumbed to it too.

World’s Largest Dinosaur

Felicia at the foot of the World’s Largest Dinosaur

Mack and I in the mouth of the dinosaur

By this time, we were crying for air conditioning (I’m not sure I’ve ever seen it cloudy or rainy in Drumheller – in my mind, it’s a toasty 35 degrees year round). The Royal Tyrrell Museum was thus the next logical step, and would hopefully bridge us through the warmest part of the afternoon.

Cute prairie dog outside the Museum

The parking lot was absolutely packed, with overflow parking similarly jammed. We had passed by several RV lots full of vehicles, and it seemed that the staycation mentality was in full effect.

I haven’t been to the Tyrrell since high school (hurrah for school field trips!), but short of the small exhibits about Darwin and some of the pioneer archaeologists who helped develop the museum into what it is today, the Tyrrell seemed largely unchanged. I suppose it was a bit disappointing, largely because we had visited the incomparable Smithsonian earlier this year. I know funding must be difficult to come by, but I do hope the Tyrrell is able to build additional galleries that would provide the option of rotating exhibitions – having reached a milestone in visitors this year, I do hope they can continue to attract a record number of tourists.

My parents at the Tyrrell Museum

T-Rex

Stegosaurus was my favourite dinosaur as a kid

Eerie Woolly Mammoth display

The freakiest looking salamanders (called axolotl)

It was still blazingly hot outside after our museum visit, but we had no choice and headed to the next attraction – hoodoos!

My sisters at the hoodoos

There were two tourism employees placed around the hoodoos to prevent visitors from breaching out-of-bounds areas – on smouldering days like that, I can’t imagine being in the sun for eight hours straight.

Mack on top of the world!

Hoodoos of a different sort (such a cheesy picture, but I love it)

We had some more time to kill before needing to head to Calgary, so decided to stop at the nearby Rosedale Suspension Bridge. Nothing particularly special, the swaying structure was enough to keep my mum on the side of the parking lot while the rest of us crossed to see what was across the river. It turns out, nothing much.

Rosedale Suspension Bridge

Amanda and Felicia on the bridge

The next day in Calgary, we didn’t do much except eat and shop. And, well, visit the Calgary Farmers’ Market.

Too cute watering cans

Mack knows well enough by now that I can’t leave a farmers’ market empty-handed, so goaded me into buying a few things lest he have to hear about the missed opportunity to try a different local vendor. As we were away for the weekend, it also meant we had missed our usual Saturday trip to the City Centre Farmers’ Market, so we needed some produce to tide us over anyway. We didn’t have much cooler space left, so opted for heartier broccoli and cauliflower from Beck Farms that would easily last the ride home, and a 950g(!) loaf of multigrain bread from Rustic Sourdough Bakery.

Weighing out our bread options

I’m not sure when our whole family will be able to take another road trip again, but it was fun to get away together this year!

You can see Mack’s photoset of our trip here.

DC Brunch: Tabard Inn

Planning for vacations, brunch is always the meal that we look forward to most. As a result, brunch requires additional legwork to locate a restaurant that offers a variation of the type of brunch we enjoy. I was lucky in my DC reading, as one of our short listed accommodations also hosted a reputable restaurant within.

Hotel Tabard Inn

Tabard Inn is nested inside the Hotel Tabard Inn, a historic building in the Dupont Circle neighbourhood. Their accommodations were cheaper than George Washington University Inn, but by the time we had called to book, they were full. When we reached the hotel, we were glad with our ultimate choice because the walk to the Metro was at least double the distance.

The building was quaint – situated on a fairly quiet residential street, with flower pots and other greenery making it the most attractive residence on the block. We wandered inside, through a too-dim sitting room with creaky wooden floors and portraits of revolutionaries gone-by and into the restaurant. I had made a reservation several weeks before, and thank goodness we did – the room was packed.

To be honest, I picked Tabard Inn solely on the website photo, which showed a sunny room lined with a friendly checkered floor. In reality, the room was not as bright, likely because of the potted plants that lined the windows outside. Tabard also has an enclosed patio outside, but with the humidity out in full force that day, I was glad our hostess directed us to a table housed in the air-conditioned dining room, just below a window. Mack did notice that for whatever reason, Tabard doesn’t use cloth napkins – the paper napkins didn’t quite mesh with the décor in our opinion.

In Tabard Inn

I had given the menu a quick scan online, but unlike most times, hadn’t already picked out what I wanted. I decided upon the blueberry pancakes, while Mack stayed true to his usual egg-and-potato dish. Also being a sucker to try the resident special, we also ordered two doughnuts, which we were told were usually served before our meal. Who were we to thwart tradition?

When our bread basket was delivered prior to the doughnuts, we wondered who had come up with a tradition that stacked carb upon carb to start a meal. At any rate, the freshly-baked basket filled with a variety of savoury goodies soothed any questions we had, with our favourite being the corn bread.

Bread Basket

We hadn’t quite finished with our basket when a doily-lined plate with two petite doughnuts were delivered. They were as advertised – freshly fried, warm and with the taste of grease still lingering. They reminded Mack of mini doughnuts, and he said they were good, but nothing special.

Doughnuts

The main event was the highlight – the pancakes were just perfect – slightly crisp on the outside, but still soft and airy in the middle. I could have done with a few more blueberries (a la Clinton Street), but it was a pretty good dish the way it was.

Blueberry Pancakes

Mack’s eggs and homefries were tasty, but the standout for him was the flaky biscuit – Tabard Inn certainly knew how to do pastries right.

Scrambled Eggs, House-made Toulouse Sausage and Homefries

If you’re not in the neighbourhood already, I’m not sure Tabard Inn is worth an exclusive trip. That said, I was happy for the opportunity to explore a neighbourhood we wouldn’t otherwise have seen.

Tabard Inn (in Hotel Tabard Inn)
1739 N Street NW
Washington D.C.
(202) 331-8528

Day 6 in DC: Last Hurrahs

This is the penultimate DC post. I can’t believe it has taken me this long to finish documenting the trip…

While I had in mind that we would visit one farmers’ market while in DC, we were lucky to have had the opportunity to visit two, stumbling upon the Foggy Bottom FRESHFARM market earlier in the week. The destination market, on the other hand, was found via a Yelp recommendation – Eastern Market was billed as one of the liveliest, and with a Metro stop named after it, getting there was just a subway ride away.

Eastern Market

Eastern Market can claim the distinction of being the oldest continually operated market in the DC area. The grounds hosted a mix of vendors – from “flea market” classified tables and arts and crafts, to ready-to-eat items and fresh produce, it was a great place to shop for both tourists and locals. An indoor facility also housed select vendors year-round, with everything from poultry to cheese to vegetables available. Unlike the FRESHFARM markets (similar to the Calgary Farmers’ Market), there appeared to be no restriction on imported products, as we saw items like bananas and pineapples on sale.

More outdoor vendors

Mack at Eastern Market

We found that the vendors as a whole were more aggressive, bordering on carney-style as they invited timid consumers to step forward to taste samples. Because of this, we ended up buying a bag of fair trade Honduran coffee and two fresh peaches (the latter of which we ate at the airport – they were so unbelievably ripe we had peach juice running down our chins).

Peaches!

We also picked up a few unique souvenirs – a necklace for me (it reminded me somewhat of the jewellery available at The Plaid Giraffe) and a Val Proudkii print for Mack. The print was actually one we had seen earlier in the week at the Newseum, which had won an award in the “amateur” photography category for the 2009 inauguration. When we asked the vendor whether or not it was he himself who had taken the shot, his reply was so nonchalant that we supposed he was probably tired from the exposure of that one photo.

A visit to Eastern Market also extends to the area around it – the surrounding streets were lined with charming bistros and cafes, the sidewalks brimming with patio seating. Dozens of tourists and locals alike were revelling on that beautiful Saturday morning, enjoying a meal outdoors, or, waiting in line for blueberry pancakes at the venerable Market Lunch. While we had a brunch appointment elsewhere, we couldn’t resist picking up an iced coffee at Port City Java. It was one of the best cold coffees I have ever had – I think the combination of the sweet shot of vanilla and inclusion of shaved ice elevated the drink.

We hopped back on the Metro to get to Dupont Circle. It could have been known as another kind of Circle because when we arrived at the foot of the escalator, we found that it was out of order. I’m not sure what implored us to take the stairs instead of searching for an elevator, but once we started heading up, we couldn’t stop.

Stairway to…

Out of breath at the top (ironically, there was a Krispy Kreme positioned to the left of the escalators), the moment of unspoken camaraderie we had with fellow commuters who had also braved the stairs was undeniable.

After we recovered, we found there was a Golden Triangle Ambassador positioned to help lost tourists navigate the district. Businesses in the area had banded together under an umbrella group in an effort to promote visits to a section of the city without any national memorials and museums, or the inherent urban chic of neighbourhoods like Georgetown. The guide was able to provide us with a map, and quickly pointed out how we would navigate ourselves to Tabard Inn.

Full, we headed back in the direction of the Metro. En route, we came upon a drum troupe that had set up shop in Dupont Circle park. The impromptu concert was amazing, with listeners dancing alongside the performers, the entire area electric with the infectious beat of the drums. It was one of the coolest things we saw in DC.

Drummers

After being confronted with the $60 cab fee into the city, Mack and I were resolute we would use public transportation on the way back to the airport. It seemed simple enough – a bus picked up travelers from an easily accessible Metro stop. When we arrived, we found the bus had already begun loading passengers. We dutifully joined the line, but with our luck, were turned away by the bus driver, who stated that the vehicle was full. Of course, as the bus drove away, it was obvious to us that passengers at the rear of the vehicle had stacked their luggage on the seats – and the next bus was an hour away.

We contemplated sharing a cab with another errant traveler, but if the next bus did arrive on time, we would just make our check-in window. We settled in at the McDonald’s across the street to escape the melting humidity, and eventually boarded a bus that did take us to the airport on time. Whew.

While DC doesn’t changeover as often as, say, New York, the city continues its efforts to celebrate its heritage and memorialize groundbreaking figures in American history. For example, the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial is in the works, while the African American Museum will begin construction in 2015.

My DC “top five”, in no particular order, are as follows:

  • Washington Monument
  • DC by Foot tour
  • Farmers’ markets (Foggy Bottom and Eastern Market)
  • Proof
  • Paddleboating on Tidal Basin

Mack’s DC “top five”, in no particular order, are as follows:

  • Washington Monument
  • Founding Farmers
  • Newseum
  • Metro
  • Lincoln Memorial

With the rest of the world still waiting to be seen, I am not sure we will be back anytime soon, but we had a great time. Thanks, DC!

You can read Mack’s Day 6 post here, and see our complete DC photoset here.

Not Our Kettle of Fish: Hook

Mack came up with the title.

Although “seafood” isn’t a dirty word, certain varieties of fish, including bluefin tuna and chilean sea bass are heading in that direction. I readily acknowledge that I need to learn more about sustainable seafood practices, and while eating in a restaurant doesn’t necessarily provide education, I found Hook to be at least cognizant of the need for change.

Hook

Located on a busy Georgetown street, Hook’s subdued blue awning could be easily missed. The tiny storefront gave way to a long, rectangular space, loosely divided into a small front dining area, a bar, and a larger dining room in the back. Décor was minimal, but helped establish a serene sense of being – white light fixtures, sealife art, polished hardwood.

Mack at Hook

We were seated in the front, sandwiched between a glass pane that separated the host from our table, and another table that bordered the storefront window. It was a little distracting, having to see and hear other patrons as they arrived and were greeted, but the rear dining area probably wasn’t much better – the floor echoed the conversation in the room.

The menu was obviously seafood focused, with a token chicken and beef entrée available to placate those unable or unwilling to eat seafood. Our server was keen to answer our questions, particularly when it came to decoding the varieties of fish we were less familiar with. However, his efficiency bordered on annoying during our meal, as he literally stood behind us and waited for clean plates to clear. Surveillance dining is not for us.

We decided to start with an order of the grilled calamari with potato salad and basil walnut pesto, which the server promised would be amazing. Our entrees were based entirely upon our desire to try a new type of fish and our server’s depiction of them. I ended up with a prosciutto-wrapped lingcod, which was likened to most other white fish, while Mack chose moonfish, described as being “pink”, which we compared to the flesh colour of salmon.

While we waited for our appetizers, we munched on slices of baguette. Instead of butter or perhaps olive oil and balsamic vinegar, we were given a bowl of mayonnaise to accompany our bread – needless to say, we chose to enjoy our bread unadorned.

Bread course

The calamari plate was plumped up with a fair quantity of potato side. I have never been a fan of squid’s chewy consistency, but Mack was impressed by the contrasting flavours – the slightly charred tips, and the tang of a citrus finish.

Grilled Calamari

Both of our entrees contained a fair amount of fish. My lingcod was tender, but in terms of flavour, was nothing special. I’m not sure I would have been able to distinguish this variety from others. The underlying gnocchi was actually the star of the plate anyway, and easily rivalled Proof’s meltingly delicious dumplings.

Lingcod with Gnocchi

Unfortunately, Mack had a terrible experience with his fish – it turned out our server’s definition of “pink” fish spoke more to the cooking technique of simply searing the fish, leaving the core of the steak raw. He probably should have sent it back to request that it be cooked through, but he managed to finish most of it.

Moonfish

Dessert was a chocolate tart with ice cream and caramel. Made by “DC’s Pastry Chef of the Year”, it was indeed a decadent desert, the richness of the chocolate cut through by the salt and caramel. This was a savoury-sweet combination I enjoyed thoroughly.

Chocolate Tart

With our billfold we were given a handy pocket-sized copy of The Blue Ocean Institute’s Guide to Ocean Friendly Seafood. It listed, in descending order, types of seafood that are relatively abundant, with fishing or farming methods that cause relatively little damage to habitat and other wildlife, with species containing high levels of mercury or PCBs clearly marked. It is a great resource to have (and one which I now keep with me at all times), but for a restaurant that prides itself on sustainable sourcing (and to some extent, education of the consumer), this guide should have either been provided at the beginning of the meal, or incorporated into the menu somehow.

As a whole, our meal at Hook was the least memorable of our restaurant experiences in DC.

Hook
3241 M St NW
Washington, DC
(202) 625-4488

Day 5 in DC: Tourist Mashup

The muggiest day to greet us in DC was also our tardiest start, indicative of our exhaustion the night before. We finally left the hotel at 10:30, and determined to try an alternative to Starbucks, sought out the nearest location of Caribou Coffee.

With their wooden beams, hardwood floor and stone fireplace, it would have been easy to mistake the interior of Caribou Coffee with that of a Montana’s. There was no line-up (unlike our hotel’s neighbourhood Starbucks), and I liked the cheeky statements printed on the napkins. The coffee itself wasn’t bad, though drowned in milk as it were I probably wouldn’t have been able to tell otherwise.

 

A cabin or a coffee shop?

Our first planned stop for the day was the last of the major memorials we hadn’t yet seen – the Thomas Jefferson Memorial. At some point after we departed the Metro we must have made a wrong turn, because we ended up not at the memorial, but at a waterfront lined with seafood stalls.

Seafood market

Crabs galore!

The aromas drifting from the area weren’t exactly pleasant – seafood never fares well in open air on hot days. There was some agreeable cookery going on though – with “fresh” (trucked in) fish, crabs, and other shellfish being offered alongside lemonade and ice cream. We were able to sample some fried fish, which satisfied our seafood curiosity.

A man among fish

Across and under a bridge, we finally reached the Jefferson Memorial. Away from the Mall attractions, it was relatively quiet, and free from large school groups. Situated on the Tidal Basin as well, this memorial was in the perfect spot to capture breezes that came off the water. I’m sure cherry blossoms would add a touch of magic to the park, but even without them, the tree-lined area was lovely, and brought me back to the West Wing episode of “Mandatory Minimums” where Toby and Andie take their walk around the basin.

Jefferson Memorial

Jefferson, the primary author of the Constitution, was quite scholarly, making the Greek columns very appropriate for his memorial. Though the statues of Lincoln and Jefferson are apparently the same height, the Lincoln Memorial still trumps all others in grandness and impact.

Jefferson Memorial

We walked across the basin to spend the best $10 we had all trip – on paddleboats! The $10 secured a rental for an hour, which was more than enough time to explore the reachable corners of Tidal Basin, and to access one of the best frontal views of the Jefferson Memorial. And after rushing from place to place for the last few days, it was nice to kick back and relax out on the water.

Jefferson Memorial from Tidal Basin

Mack on the Berry (photo #2 – yes, even on the water)

Marines and POTUS helicopters flew overhead in the direction of the White House a few times, as did numerous domestic flights in and out of Reagan National Airport. The airspace in DC was undoubtedly always busy.

POTUS Helicopter overhead

Off the water, we took a quick ice cream break at one of the strategically-placed tourist-oriented confectionary traps, and hopped on the Metro to get to our lunch destination – Ben’s Chili Bowl on U Street.

Our piecemeal day continued with a return to our hotel to change (a nod to our most formal dining experience in DC), then hoofed it to Georgetown. It was absolutely boiling at this point, so our trek was most uncomfortable for Mack, to say the least, dressed in a long-sleeve dress shirt. He was a trooper though, as we made the most of our time by shopping in the district, where I picked up some gifts at the lovely gift and stationary store Paper Source and elsewhere.

I heart Georgetown

A picturesque garden in the middle of Georgetown

A Georgetown shopping centre

We made sure to stop at Dean and Deluca, which in Georgetown was not only a café, but a full-on specialty grocer. We overturned many products to find astronomical prices, and contented ourselves with two rounded D & D mugs, which we had admired from afar in New York.

Dean & Deluca

Not a wine cellar, but hall

Bulk candies are always more expensive when stored in glass jars

On Bruce’s recommendation, we also visited Georgetown Cupcake, where the line-up was out the door. Granted, the tiny storefront could only contain so many, but given the number of large boxes waiting to be picked up, we were sure that walk-in customers formed only a tiny branch of their business.

They had a dozen varieties to choose from, all temptingly displayed on tiered stands at the order counter. After patrons put in their order, they had to pass the funds across to the staff person on the other side of the tiers, creating an awkward exchange for both parties (and a potentially messy one, even though a sign read that ‘cakes on display were indeed for display only).

Cupcakes!

At $2.75 a pop, the cupcakes seemed to be on par or slightly more expensive than the Canadian bakeries I have visited. I decided on a fairly classic flavour – vanilla² – while Mack opted for something a little less run-of-the-mill – carrot cake.

On the corner of Georgetown and cupcake

The vanilla bean cake was pretty tasty – flavoured and flecked nicely, but with sweetness in check. I was saddened to find that the icing was made with cream cheese, however, as I am not a fan. On the other hand, the cream cheese base did mean that the icing didn’t melt as fast as its, say, buttercream counterparts, and as Mack adores cream cheese, he unsurprisingly enjoyed his treat more than I did.

We ended the night at dinner – an upscale restaurant called Hook.

You can read Mack’s Day 5 recap here.

Day 4 in DC: Brush with Barack

While DC’s Metro isn’t perfect for tourists, it was pretty darn great at facilitating most of our trips to and from the most popular tourist sites. Some, such as the Mall, Arlington National Cemetery and Georgetown aren’t directly connected by Metro, but for the most part, so long as we were ready and willing to walk, transportation around the city was seamless. The stations were reasonably clean, easy to navigate, and rider friendly with electronic ETA signs at each platform (we did find it rather odd that instead of using pre-programmed announcements at each stop, however, that the driver had to personally declare each stop). It didn’t hurt that the stations were aesthetically pleasing as well, with grand, curving archways that channelled European train stations instead of the more typical dreary, underground bunker-style.

DC Metro Station

We purchased a weeklong short trip pass for $26.40, which covered all of our travel on the Metro. When we received the passes, we had to wonder if there would ever be a time when our current Prime Minister would ever appear on any Canadian subway ticket.

President Obama on the Metro pass

On Thursday morning, we allowed ourselves the luxury of sleeping in until 8:30, and then stopped at Starbucks for a leisurely coffee and the space to share the teacake we had picked up at the farmers’ market the day before (it was a start to our day of inglorious eats, to say the least). Having sufficiently awakened ourselves, we headed to our first stop of the day – the White House Visitor’s Centre.

As previously mentioned, we weren’t able to secure a White House tour, which was disappointing, but as we found no shortage of other activities, was slightly easier to swallow. As a result, we ended up at the Visitor Centre, which we found to be in dire need of a complete overhaul. While we didn’t mind the aged facility, we couldn’t believe the sad nature of the exhibits, which ranged from a DVD on repeat, cardboard cutouts, and modest information panels on the history of the rooms and the residents of 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue. As the Capitol Visitor Centre just had their renovation (to include, among other things, interactive electronic touch screens and 3-D models), I hope the White House Visitor Centre is next in line.

White House Visitor Centre

I will say that we did enjoy the part of the video that we stayed to watch, which provided a glimpse of the rooms we would not be able to see in person, and that the gift shop was one of the most affordable that we had seen.

We eventually made our way towards the actual White House, about a block away. While approaching the building, we encountered a group of police officers who had started to block off the intersection leading into the patrolled grounds. We didn’t have long to wonder why they were doing this, because after the crowds had been ushered a fair distance back from the road, the President’s Motorcade, complete with police escort, several SUVs and an ambulance, passed by, as the crowd cheered and waved.

Road blockade

President Obama’s Motorcade

It blew my mind how logistically complicated it must be to systematically close off the streets where the President would pass through, but Mack was probably right in his assessment that POTUS’s handlers likely have it down to a science.

The top of the Ellipse, right by the Christmas tree, was the closest we were able to get to the White House. We agreed that it was a little anti-climactic, and as some have said, partly because of the prescribed viewing distance, was definitely not as grand and breathtaking as the monuments and memorials in the Mall.

The White House

At the White House (sadly, this shot is better than the one a fellow tourist took for us)

Our next stop on our tourist mishmash was the National Museum of Natural History. For whatever reason, I had it in my head that this was the site of 2006’s Night at the Museum. Apparently I was sleeping during the movie because although the sequel, Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian, was filmed in several of DC’s museums (including Natural History), the setting of the first film was the American Museum of Natural History in New York.

National Museum of Natural History

At any rate, we made it a point to be out of the museum in less than two hours, even though the air conditioning was a welcome refuge from the escalating midday heat. We saw the Hope Diamond, the Dinosaur Hall (including examples of Albertosaurus and Edmontosaurus), and my favourite, the elephant in the rotunda (that sounds like it could be the start of a joke…).

Dinosaur Hall

Elephant in the Rotunda

By the end of our brisk museum tour, we were ready for some lunch. As we were planning on visiting Union Station next (primarily to compare it to Grand Central Station), we thought it best to defer our hunger until we reached that building.

The architecture of Union Station is grand, and we loved that the halls mirrored the look of the underground Metro stations. These arches were more magnificent, however, benefiting from illumination by natural light.

 Union Station

It wasn’t until we explored Union Station further that we discovered full-scale restaurants and cafes outside of the food court area, but that day, we were content with a fairly inexpensive meal. I’ve also never before encountered so many free samples outside of a farmers’ market or Costco – the fast food outlets were competing with each other, doing their best to capture the tourist vote. My choice of a basic plate of teriyaki chicken with rice and vegetables ($5.99) from Sakura Japan turned out to be surprisingly good, with a portion size that could have easily fed two people.

Teriyaki Chicken

We then shopped for a bit (well, when I say “we”, I mean I led, and Mack followed), where I found the perfect garment store for me – White House/Black Market, whose primary business is selling white and black clothes. I spent way too much money on a dress, but hey, the pockets and the fit were too good to pass up!

Vice-Vice President?

We had noted the National Air and Space Museum down as a potential time bridge to other Mall activities, and after Union Station, we had exactly half an hour to explore it before closing. We powered through it, and were only able to take a brief look at some of the incredible aircraft and space vehicles housed within. It is the Smithsonian’s most popular museum, and even with our concise visit, we were able to see why – the germ and power of discovery is inherent, and it doesn’t hurt that the museum holds an IMAX theatre, and some of the most visually astounding displays we had seen yet.

National Air and Space Museum

This section was closed, as staff were setting up for a private function – how cool would that be?!

We had broken our “one museum per day” rule, and paid the price. We took a break on one of the many benches along the Mall, and thought seriously about not partaking in the walking tour we had planned on joining. We both knew, however, that guided tours by locals provided some of the best insights into the city, and so we picked ourselves up and somehow managed to get to the site of the DC By Foot on time.

DC by Foot

The tours are led by eager volunteers and are free of charge, but tipping is encouraged. Our tour guide was a retired teacher who, based on his demeanour, really missed teaching. He was a little overenthusiastic in the beginning, but thankfully, mellowed out by the end, and was a great source of enlightening and humorous information.

On the tour (one of Mack’s favourite pictures captured on the trip)

The two hour tour led us to the monuments and memorials we had already seen and photographed on our second day, but was one of my highlights of the entire trip, as it furthered my appreciation for the city, and provided a lot of helpful context. I highly recommend taking the tour, preferably near the beginning of your visit to DC.

Washington Memorial at dusk

At the Lincoln Memorial (thank goodness for sneakers…)

We ended the tour at the Lincoln Memorial, and decided to wait out the darkness to see the Washington Monument and Lincoln and the Korean War Veterans Memorials in their full night glory. The latter was particularly haunting, with the semi-lit gaze of one soldier always aimed at the viewer.

Washington Monument and Capitol at night

Lincoln Memorial at night (loved how he was illuminated)

Lincoln Memorial

Lincoln up close

In dire need of dinner, we asked the tour guide for a restaurant recommendation. He took one look at our “youthful” selves said we should head to Georgetown, site of “hip” establishments, and said the walk was about 1 mile. We believed him, and set out for Georgetown. Though we may or may not have taken a wrong turn, when we realized the distance between us and the twinkling lights of the “hip” waterfront eateries was much further than we were prepared to go, we knew limping to the Safeway in the Watergate complex would be the more realistic option for food.

Along the water

Sandwich and Stouffer’s FTW!

Absolutely exhausted, we retired early to gear up for our last full day in DC.

You can read Mack’s Day 4 recap here.

Sustainable Comfort: Founding Farmers

“Local” and “sustainability” are two of the key buzzwords in the restaurant industry right now, so it wasn’t surprising that Founding Farmers, a fairly new addition to DC’s restaurant scene, seems to live and breathe both of those practices. After reading their mission statement on their website, I was hooked, despite seeing both hit-and-miss reviews on Chowhound:

“The Founding Farmers name represents a combination of ideas: it is a celebration of the land, and the American family farmer; it is a nod to the founding fathers of our country, many of whom owned and farmed land that surrounds Washington, DC; and it is a place where true, sustainably farmed, grown and harvested American foods reminiscent of traditions from across the land are brought to our guests.”

Pig and bird light fixtures

I had made a reservation for us about a week prior through Open Table, and boy, was I glad I did. On a random Wednesday, the wait for a party of two was 35 minutes (recession, what recession?). We should have asked if any tables were available on the first floor, as it was bordered by two sides of windows, and sharing the space with a large bar made the dining area a little more casual. Upstairs, where we were led, was more formal: window shades, casual-cool dark wood furniture, and rounded banquets with some semblance of privacy. There were some rustic touches sprinkled throughout though – a shelf of large coloured jars of fruit and vegetables stood in one corner, while the same tungsten-baring light bulbs as seen in Proof hung from the ceiling. And too cute – water served from old-fashioned milk jars. Our table was known as the “communal table”, a beautifully lacquered piece formed from a section of a single trunk. Though Mack initially resented our placement, when a large, friendly group joined us later that night, we did end up interacting with them throughout our meal, as they asked us for dish recommendations.

Our communal table

The menu was massive, filled with crowd-pleasing comfort food favourites, from chicken pot pie to pot roast to shrimp and grits. Dishes were a little on the pricey side, but understandable given their sourcing of local ingredients. Based on the Chowhound chatter, the baby cheeseburgers (6 for $14) were non-negotiable, and to round off my beef intake for the week, I decided on the farmer’s meatloaf ($16) – it wasn’t until later that night that I realized how much ground beef I had consumed that day. Mack, a sucker for macaroni and cheese, gave their version a spin, which involved handmade macaroni and lobster and gouda-gruyere cheese ($25). Founding Farmers does not serve a complimentary bread course, following in the tail wind of other upscale eateries in the U.S. that charge for a then-necessarily high-quality bread basket. Thankfully, we didn’t have to wait long for our appetizer plate, with six mini burgers and (a bonus) fries. They were easily the best sliders I’ve ever had – with soft house-made bread that cushioned the patty. The ground-to-order beef had been cooked to medium (slightly pink inside), and the crunch of the sour pickle inside was a nice touch. The fries were great, though slightly too salty.

Baby Cheeseburgers

When our entrees arrived, we knew finishing our meal would be difficult. My thick slice of meatloaf, made with ground beef and mushrooms, was accompanied by two gravies, which helped bring out some of the inherent flavour in the meat. Though the dish itself was very good, by the end of my serving, it became a little redundant.

Farmer’s Meatloaf with Yukon Gold Potatoes and Today’s Vegetable

Mack found the kitchen to have been quite generous with the lobster, but faced a similar obstacle with a very rich dish. He commented that the cheese was a bit like cheese whiz, actually, and was disappointed that there wasn’t any crispy, melted excess on top.

Lobster Macaroni and Cheese

It is worth noting that service was both hit and miss that night – our server was quite eager and attentive, right up until we put in our order. It took us a while to finally get a needed water refill.

As a whole, I applaud Founding Farmers for the concept behind the restaurant, and their commitment to sourcing quality, local ingredients. Something was missing for me, and though I can’t put my finger on it, I know Mack disagrees with me – it was his favourite restaurant experience in DC.

Founding Farmers
1924 Pennsylvania Ave NW
Washington, DC
(202) 822-8783

Capitol Escape: Jimmy T’s Place

While Mack and I consistently bemoan the lack of diners in Edmonton, we take every opportunity to patronize neighbourhood diners when out of town.

Jimmy T’s Place was such a diner, located just ten minutes away from the hustle and bustle of Capitol Hill, it afforded a temporary refuge from fellow tourists and busyness.

Jimmy T’s Place

A Fodor’s recommendation, like Teaism, I was drawn to this restaurant primarily because of the price, but also for its diner billing. I loved the interior, which appeared as if it hadn’t been retouched since it opened – pipes were exposed, paint was chipped, seat cushions were ripped – and yet, combined with the vaulted metallic ceiling and counter service, it looked like it had been lived-in, endearingly cozy.

Interior

Unfortunately, the food didn’t quite live up to our affection for the décor. Mack’s eggs benedict (they serve all-day breakfast), was serviceable, with a crisp English muffin base, but the potatoes were sorely undercooked. My burger was moist, but really nothing special. Our biggest beef was actually how long we had to wait for the food – we watched as several walk-ins received their orders long before ours had even reached the grill.

Eggs Benedict

Cheeseburger and Fries

I’d recommend Jimmy T’s for the escape, but not for the food.

Jimmy T’s Place
501 E Capitol St SE
Washington, DC
(202) 546-3646