Delicious and Divine: Violino

After reading a few positive reviews about Violino (10133 125 Street), a new-ish restaurant in the High Street area, I suggested that Annie and I give it a try on Friday night.

Located in what appears to be a renovated house, we were greeted upon arrival by a host who took our coats (after New York, I am terrified by coat checks). He led us to the second floor dining area, and at that time, we were only the second party in the restaurant (while it was never full, more patrons arrived over the course of the evening).

Annie and I both loved the decor – red tapestries, cream seat covers, and the nicest bathroom either of us had seen in a long time (I’m a sucker for those bowl-shaped sinks that sit atop counters). My only nitpick was the prevalence of music-themed art throughout the restaurant; two or three pieces would have been subtle, but we seemed to encounter another sculpture every time we turned around.

Wanting to leave room for dessert, we bypassed the appetizers and denser entrees, opting instead for the Risotto con Funghi (risotto and wild mushroom melange, parmesan cheese, mixed herbs and laced with truffle oil). I am pleased to say that our server was great under the circumstances; she was assigned the entire second level, and was swamped, but did her best to provide attentive and timely service.

Our food arrived in a positively aromatic cloud and our server confirmed that we were noticing the truffle oil. In short, the risotto was divine. Rich and savoury, but not overly salty, the rice was a creamy bit of heaven.

To end our meal, we each ordered the Espresso Tiramisu and an accompanying cup of tea. Beautifully presented, with an artfully placed wafer and a single raspberry, the cake did not taste heavy, unlike versions at other Italian restaurants. The marscapone cheese blended wonderfully with the espresso-soaked biscuits, and I found the chocolate syrup garnish a nice sweet touch.

While not inexpensive, our indulgence at Violino was well worth it.

Restaurant Exterior

Annie and her Risotto

Espresso Tiramisu

2007: A Year of Culinary Highlights

2007 was a great year. For food, that is.

I was fortunae enough to travel to Europe this summer, and to New York in December. At home in Edmonton, I sampled the fare at several new restaurants (or at least, “new” to me), and discovered some now-favorites.

In no particular order, here are a few of my culinary highlights from the past year.

  • Eating the best pizza of my life first at Vancouver’s Bridges, then in a small sidestreet restaurant in Florence.

  • Asiago, Parmesan and Mozzerella Pizza from Bridges

    Navona Notte from a restaurant with that namesake

  • (With Mack’s help) Throwing my first ever dinner party!
  • Panna Cotta amidst a candlelit table

  • Many a good meal at my beloved Blue Plate Diner.
  • Comfort food at its best – the Herbed Meatloaf from Blue Plate Diner

  • The discovery of a stellar diner in Calgary, a wonderful lunch spot in downtown Edmonton, a historic house for more than just tea, a comfortable greasy spoon, and a chic cafe for fab pizza and panini sandwiches.
  • Frittata from Diner Deluxe

    Chicken Cordon Bleu from Shine Bistro

    Cranberry Brie Sandwich from Arbor Restaurant in Rutherford House

    Poutine from Route 99 Diner

    Vegetarian Panini Sandwich from Leva Capuccino Bar

  • Exhausting my cupcake phase: first in Calgary; then in Vancouver; Edmonton; and finally New York (and of course, I made my own too).
  • From Calgary’s Buttercream Bakeshoppe

    From Calgary’s Crave

    From Vancouver’s Cupcakes

    From Edmonton’s Whimsical Cupcakes

    From New York’s Magnolia Bakery

    An Ina Garten recipe for Chocolate Cupcakes with Peanut Butter Icing

  • Experiencing the gold standard for eating out at Becco in New York, which balanced the line between fine dining and comfort.

Outside Becco

  • An invitation to participate in a Market Fresh Cooking Class with Judy Schultz and Gail Hall, which started to get me thinking about seasonal cooking and utilizing farmer’s markets.

With my fellow Journal winners, Gail Hall, and Judy Schultz

I can’t wait to see what’s in store for 2008!

Food Notes

  • Judy Schultz is retiring! After 26 years, she is leaving the Journal. We’ll miss you, Judy!
  • La Spiga is no more. Violino, another Italian eatery, has replaced it. Judging by a positive review from the Zenari clan, it’s a good bet for traditional food.
  • The next time I return to Manhattan, I’ll be sure to time it around a Restaurant Week. The listing of participants for the January event is up.
  • There was an interesting article in the Globe last week about the movement to “reclaim” but also to experiment with Indian food. It talks about an up and coming chef, based in the UK, who has banished the word “curry” from his menu.
  • Food trends for 2008 (though perhaps not really worth mentioning in a food climate as slow as Edmonton’s): gastropubs, comfort food/one-item restaurants (like S’MAC), and upscale frozen desserts.
  • Blogging about New York took a lot out of me, so instead of a full restaurant review, I’m copping out and just writing a few sentences about my latest experience at Manor Cafe. I had dinner there with a few girlfriends there last week, and was less than impressed. This is the second time where upon entering the restaurant, I was left waiting in the lobby for someone, anyone, to greet me. Secondly, our server opened up the evening with humor, referencing the nearly-empty dining area on the main floor (“As you can see, we’re so busy”), but failed to keep up with the implied promise of good service. Andrea never did get her water glass refilled, and resorted to drinking everyone else’s water. Our supply of hot water for tea also needed continued requests to be replenished. The food was nothing to write home about, though it was my choice to order the seemingly out of place Nasi Goreng dish. The rice itself was pretty bland, but I did enjoy the accompaniments provided (the peanut sauce in particular was quite tasty). Operated by the same couple who own Urban Diner (where I’ve always had a positive experience), I’m surprised at how inconsistent Manor Cafe has been.

Culinary Q & A with Andrea

Occupation: Professional student. Technically, I’m in grade 19.

What did you eat today?

I woke up at 1pm and went to Denny’s for breakfast/lunch. I had the Heartland Scramble:

Two eggs scrambled with chopped bacon, country-fried potatoes, green peppers and onions, and topped with Cheddar cheese. Served with two strips of bacon, two sausage links, hash browns and three fluffy buttermilk pancakes.

Instead of the pancakes, I substituted it with French toast.

I also had some mandarin oranges to snack on.

What do you never eat?

Never say never! I mean, I say now that I’ll won’t eat bugs and rats. But what if I was starving on a desert island? I think I’d have no qualms hunting down and devouring anything remotely edible. Better them than me.

I guess to answer your question: it’s not that I’ll never eat it but I don’t enjoy the taste of cilantro, pineapples, olives, pickles, vinegar, lobster/crab, shark fin, tofu, peanut butter (peanuts alone, I like), cooked citrus fruits (raw is fine), capers, and watercress.

Oh, and I don’t really like chocolate either. Weird, I know.

What is your personal specialty?

Everyone seems to like my chocolate chip oatmeal cookies. I have so many requests for the recipe but I refuse to divulge the secret. You’ll never find it in any books or the internet since I made it up.

My mini pecan pies are pretty good too, but an incredible hassle to make. I’d like to think I’m above average in the baked goods department.

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Sharp knives. For stabbing.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

Appetizer: Deep-fried breaded fresh calimari with tzatziki sauce for dipping, and a lemon wedge for squeezing. An important thing to note is that I want the calimari to breading ratio to be at least 3:1 in terms of volume.

Entree: It’s a tough choice but I think I’d choose a gyro over pho. This gyro MUST come from the Greek island of Santorini at a certain restaurant who’s name escapes me.

Since that probably won’t make me full, I’d also like a prime rib dinner made by my dad, served with Russian Blue Duchesse potatoes and garden fresh vegetables (and I mean GARDEN FRESH).

Dessert: I’m pretty simple in this department — home-made apple crumble a la mode. The ice cream must be vanilla bean. I HAVE to be able to see those little black flecks.

Beverage: A nice glass of blackberry wine.

Snack: Krispy Kreme doughnuts and Haribo gummie bears.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

Hmmm…probably Charles Smart Donair. Jumbo Dim Sum comes at a close second.

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

Oooh. This is a tough question. In order to get a green-light from me, there has to be a high quality-to-price ratio and service has to be decent. You know me, I like having my water glass filled frequently and without my asking. Also, I’m not sure if my choices are biased from my meal-mates. I mean, no one would like eating in the best place in the world with their enemy.

In any case, here they are in no particular order:

Cafe Mosaic
Pad Thai
Charles Smart Donair
Jumbo Dim Sum
New Asian Village
Pagolac
Marble Slab (not really a restaurant, but ice cream is still something you eat!) Garage Burgers
Original Joe’s
Pho Tau Bay

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

Gyros from Greece; pho from Vietnam; pizza and gelato from Italy; schnitzel and beer from Germany; roast beef dinner from UK (I don’t really like Yorkshire pudding, but I had the best pudding there); all sorts of fantastic pastries from France; egg custard tarts from HK; jerky from Vancouver; naan bread from India; and last of all, huckleberry-blackberry pie a la mode from Loula’s Cafe in Whitefish, Montana.

Culinary Q & A with Jane

Occupation: Director- Financial aid office

What did you eat today?

Breakfast- yogurt, banana. Mandarin & a hot rod!
Lunch- pita & nummus
Dinner- Spanish tortilla (egg Potatos, green onions & cheese) w/ caramelized onions&red pepper

What do you never eat?

Oatmeal or cereal & milk

What is your personal specialty?

Soups & baked goods

What is your favorite kitchen item?

Sharp Knives. Close second, measuring cups

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

french onion soup Japanese food- sushi sashimi etc Miscellaneous snack stuff like drips. Pickles, olives & cheeses Haha all over the place

Where do you eat out most frequently?

A japanese restaurant in the west end- Ichiban

What’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

So hard to choose one! I love lchiban for the price to quality ratio but one of the places really like is Uppercrust ooh & Flavours on Whyte Ave. Sorry that was a non- answer!

A Surprisingly Good Brunch: Moxie’s

After discovering that a chain like Milestone’s could serve a pretty mean brunch, I went hunting for similar restaurants competing for diners on weekend afternoons. While Earls and Joey’s didn’t offer separate brunch menus, I found that Moxie’s did. So after a brief shopping trip this morning, Annie and I headed to Moxie’s on the south side (4790 Calgary Trail NW), hoping their non-reservation policy wouldn’t result in a lengthy wait.

Turns out we didn’t need to worry, as there were more than enough seats to accommodate us in the dining room. The menu was not extensive, with just nine breakfast selections (and their regular lunch features), but I actually preferred it this way – it usually meant faster kitchen prep. I was momentarily swayed by the French Toast, but ultimately decided on the Bacon & Cheddar Omelette ($10.99) – smoky bacon, sauteed onion, aged white and Canadian cheddars in a three egg omelette served with rosti potatoes and twelve-grain toast. Annie chose the more interesting Crab Cake Benedict ($12.99) – Moxie’s classic crab cakes, two poached eggs and hollandaise, with rosti potatoes and fresh fruit.

Plied with coffee, we would have waited patiently for our dishes, but in no time, our plates arrived. My omelette was huge, and I am happy to report that they did not scrimp on the cheese. They could have included more bacon (what meat that was folded in was overpowered by cheesy goodness), but that was a minor nitpick. Between the toast and crab cakes, Annie found her dish unfortunately dry, and would have liked more hollandaise sauce.

With great service throughout (our waitress constantly offered to top up our coffees) and a decent brunch menu, I would consider coming back.

Bacon & Cheddar Omelette

Crab Cake Benedict

Setting the Bar Low: Four Rooms Restaurant

Armed with an Entertainment Book coupon and low expectations, May and I headed to Four Rooms Restaurant (137 Edmonton City Centre) on Friday night.

After an overly negative experience in my high school days (involving rock-hard bread and food not remotely memorable), I was hesitant to return. But with a sweetened incentive of a 2-for-1 meal, and proximity to our second destination that evening, I was willing to give it another try. Lately as well, I had been reading about their popular Cosmopolitan Supper Club, a monthly concept event that offers dishes based around one ingredient or theme. Thus, I was hoping Four Rooms had improved since our last visit.

At around 6:15pm, May and I walked into the restaurant, greeted by four staff members who were standing around in the lobby casually chatting. Not a crime, but certainly not a good sign from a restaurant that, based purely upon location, should have been doing brisk business from the after-work and holiday shopping crowds alone. It turned out we were the third party in the dining room, though I did notice that the back room lounge contained other patrons as well. We were efficiently seated at a table along the wall, a thoughtful choice from the host who noted that the banquet would allow for ample space for our shopping bag.

The menu was more extensive and interesting than I could remember, though again, May and I were hard pressed to recall what we ordered the last time (keeping in mind that the selections had more than likely been overhauled since 2001 anyway). Though there were a few tempting selections, I ended up with the Marsala Bison Kafta ($13.50) – Bison Kaftas & mushrooms in a Marsala cream sauce tossed with linguine pasta – while May ordered the Banana Curry Chicken ($16) – grilled free range chicken in a Madras curry sauce with onions, bell peppers, yams and sweet potatoes.

When our server delivered our two dinner rolls, I couldn’t tell whether or not they were fresh or not. I could, however, nitpick that they were of the 25 cent variety available at your neighbourhood Sobey’s. Slicing into it, they were thankfully fairly soft, albeit a little cool to the touch.

Our dishes arrived fairly quickly, and on first glance, appeared quite small. By the end, however, between the meat and the pasta, I felt like the quantity was just about right. Perhaps due to my underdeveloped palette, the kafta, crafted from ground bison meat, tasted like a pan-fried Ikea meatball. The pasta, on the other hand, was superb. The sauce was creamy and sweet, with the only downside being that there wasn’t more of it to go around. May said her dish was all right, though she would have preferred a more generous serving of chicken, and could have done without the out-of-place bananas.

As meals go, this wasn’t half bad – service was good, and the food was reasonably priced. Of course, it was difficult to be objective given that we had set the bar so incredibly low. I may be back, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for Four Rooms.

Banana Curry Chicken

Marsala Bison Kafta

Eating (in) the Big Apple

Even with the Rockefeller Christmas Tree, the Fifth Avenue shop windows, Central Park, Broadway, and the possibility of catching the filming of Sex and the City, I can’t tell you what I’m more excited about – the sights or food of New York.

As I research the epicurean wonders of the Big Apple, I’m quickly finding that the tourist attractions seem to be exclusive of the city’s great eats. The vast majority of the restaurants I have my eye on are in neighbourhoods we won’t necessarily have a reason to visit – Chelsea, the West Village, the Flatiron district, the Upper East Side, the Lower East Side. An unlimited Metro pass is great, but at what point does it become nonsensical to waste time on a return trip to a personally unproven establishment? Moreover, I’m finding that it is near impossible to make reservations – with the uncertainty caused by the Broadway strike, and tours that may or may not be sold out on the days we planned for on paper, much may be shifted between now and then.

So from my reading/scanning of the Chowhound boards, New York Magazine, food blogs, and the more conventional guidebooks (Frommers is the best at offering pointers for reasonably-priced fare), here is a selection of some of the restaurants I’m interested in (but not necessarily will get to; all the more reason to come back to New York, no?).

  • To make it to one of Bobby Flay’s three Manhattan restaurants is at the top of my list. I haven’t made up my mind yet, but I’m leaning towards Bar Americain for brunch (the dining room looks spectacular).
  • Babbo, Mario Batali’s crown jewel, is often cited as the most difficult of all places to get into, but I’d actually much prefer Italian from a low-key spot like Becco, which offers an incredible $16.95 prix fixe lunch of all-you-can-eat tableside pasta.
  • Other four-star prix fixe lunch steals include most of Jean Georges’ empire (Perry Street and JoJo look intriguing), and the oft-complimented Eleven Madison Park (run by the same owners of another popular dining destination – Gramercy Tavern).
  • Pizzerias are ubiquitous in New York, but Lombardi’s, the island’s oldest, seems to drum up the most recommendations.
  • Besides Magnolia, who some say raised cupcakes to an iconic status in New York, City Bakery and Clinton Street Bakery (biscuits!) are also on my radar.
  • I’d be more than happy spending a day wandering from restaurant to restaurant in Greenwich Village – home to the very cute Peanut Butter & Co, A Salt and Battery and S’Mac (a diner that only serves variations on macaroni and cheese).

The only given at this point (and if our flight is delayed, then forget it), is the Burger Joint, a greasy spoon located behind a “brown curtain” in the lobby of the ritzy Le Parker Meridien (from the way I’ve seen it described, it honestly sounds like the veil Sirius Black fell through in Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix). So if all goes well, we should be able to beef up on cheap burgers on our first night in town – sustenance before Mack hits the only sure thing in New York – the 24 hour Apple Store.

Generic by Choice: White Spot

Thwarted by the long line at Tim Hortons, Dickson and I had to find an alternative breakfast/brunch place this morning. Wanting very much to satisfy my craving for eggs, I suggested we give White Spot (3921 Calgary Trail) a try.

The only thing I had heard about White Spot was that a friend who dined here once saw Steve Staios and his family at the restaurant. Other than that, my impressions were assumptions – that the White Spot was another generic establishment billing itself as family-friendly but also sophisticated enough for adult-only dining (cf. Boston Pizza, Ricky’s All Day Grill, Applebee’s, etc.). I wasn’t wrong.

It was nearly noon by the time we pulled up to the restaurant, and we found that the wait was between fifteen to twenty minutes. That was enough time to visually explore the decor – including a prominently placed fake fireplace out front and “welcome” in a variety of languages imprinted above the waiting area. White Spot really did remind me of Kelsey’s – a sports bar just off the main thoroughfare, cozy booths, friendly, girl-next-door waitresses, and a nearly identical menu.

We were seated in the back near the kitchen, in an area adjacent to a skylight, an unexpected but much appreciated design feature. It didn’t take us long to decide on our meals, as there were only five brunch options available at this location (a far cry from the twelve listed on the website – there was not a pancake, waffle, or omelet in sight). We both chose Nat’s Country Style Breakfast ($8.95) – toast, hash browns and 2 each of eggs, bacon and sausage.

Our orders arrived in record time – after about five minutes – though as Dickson commented, it wasn’t a difficult plate to put together, nor was the serving size particularly impressive. While it was a filling first meal of the day for me, it still wasn’t wholly satisfying. Perhaps it was my mistake in ordering something that I could have made myself without too much effort.

For brunch at least, there are a lot more interesting options than White Spot to choose from.

Restaurant Interior

Nat’s Country Style Breakfast

Wayne Gretzky Was Here: Blue Willow Restaurant

My family and I had dinner at Blue Willow (11107 103 Avenue) tonight. It’s a restaurant whose reputation precedes it – known to me (and many others) as a favorite of Wayne Gretzky, I wanted to see if the food would live up to the hype.

Entering a non-descript brown building that looked more like it belonged in a business park, we were immediately greeted by a narrow entrance way lined with photo memorabilia. If anything, Blue Willow is worth a visit just to take a gander at the pictures. Most of the photographs were shots of the owner, Vic Mah, with well-known hockey players, including the Great One, Vladislav Tretiak, Grant Fuhr, and even a dreadlocked Jerome Iginla!

Most of the seated patrons were of the older set, and appeared very much to be regulars. We were the only non-Caucasian customers at that time, leading us to believe the Blue Willow was very much a westernized Chinese eatery. When we noticed the lack of chopsticks at the place settings, the distribution of plates versus bowls to use, and the offering of plain steamed rice by the bowl (at $3 a pop) as opposed to by the container, our suspicions were substantiated. The Chinese tea we ordered was also not of the loose leaf variety – instead, they used two very weak tea bags. When we received the bill, we found out they charged us $9 for the tea – $2.25 each for the four of us. Had we known that in advance, I would have seriously considered bringing in a thermos.

As for the menu itself – it was very well put together – hard plastic pages bound nicely. The fare was, no surprise, quite westernized – in both selection and price point. After some perusal, we settled on the Mixed Chinese Vegetables ($9.25), Mongolian Beef ($12.25), Tofu Hot Pot ($11.75) and the Blue Willow Special Fried Rice ($10.50). It was unfortunate that it took over five minutes for our table to be acknowledged by anyone (our water glasses were eventually filled…by a boy that looked about ten years old. It is indeed a “family-run” establishment).

The dining room seemed to be quieting down, so our dishes didn’t take long to arrive. I must admit I was quite impressed by their innovative plating idea: fondue-style, candlelit stainless steel contraptions complete with lids to keep the food within warm. The candle was so effective that the sauce in the vegetable and beef dishes were literally bubbling! This aside, the verdict on the food itself was mixed. The portions were very small (likely about half the size of a plate at a typical Chinese restaurant), and besides the fried rice, which was quite aromatic and flavourful, the rest of the dishes were forgettable.

After our meal, and just before receiving the bill, we were treated to a bit of a Singapore Airlines service – hot towels. Our waitress even did a spin move (similar to how one would balance a basketball on one finger) to unravel the towel. It was something you’d have to see to believe.

While I can appreciate the history behind a place like the Blue Willow, the food just isn’t as good – or authentic – as I would prefer in a Chinese restaurant.

Photo on the wall of Vic Mah and Jerome Iginla
Restaurant interior (pictures were all taken on my Dad’s PDA…hence the poor quality)
Beautiful china
Mixed Chinese Vegetables
Mongolian Beef