Category: restaurants

Picnic in the Industrial Heartland: Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli

Besides the usual trinkets one might find in a woman’s purse, I have two other things that can consistently be found in mine. One is “the list,” which I have written about before (a paper square with names and address of restaurants I would like to, but have yet to, try) and a small wallet filled with coupons for restaurants that I probably wouldn’t try without a discount incentive. Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli (6508 75 Street) fell into this latter category.

Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli

Before our coffee tasting at the nearby Transcend, I thought the Deli would make a convenient stopover for dinner. We drove up to the restaurant, a building rather out of place amongst the supply stores and warehouses along 75th Street, and entered. It was empty, but we were quickly greeted by a man at the counter. He patiently waited while we perused the menu. Besides a variety of East Indian favourites, there were also some items that seemed out of place, including Spanakopita and donairs. Though I had to fight the urge to order the butter chicken, I ultimately decided a good Montreal smoked meat sandwich would be harder to come by in Edmonton, and thus thought it deserved the more pressing taste test.

After we both ordered the Smoke Meat Sandwich ($5.66, $1 extra for Swiss cheese), we took a seat outside at one of the plastic patio tables to escape the blistering heat inside the restaurant. Surveying our surroundings, amongst the wafting aroma of paint thinner, we couldn’t help but be reminded of the industrial setting of our dinner.

The sandwich itself looked promising, with what appeared to be the 160g of meat the clerk promised. The bread, however, was cold to the touch (I saw the rye loaf being taken out of the fridge) – a quick warm through in a panini press in this case wouldn’t have been a bad idea. Thankfully, the meat itself was quite nice, spiced with something I couldn’t quite place. The Swiss was also a nice addition.

Smoke Meat Sandwich

Inexpensive and relatively fast, the Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli wouldn’t be a bad option should one be passing by in need of sustenance, but in my opinion, it’s not a dining destination in and of itself.

Tandoori Express & Montreal Deli
6508 75 Street
(780) 465-7088
Monday-Wednesday 11am-9pm, Thursday-Saturday 11am-10pm

The Sandwich Spot: Colonel Mustard’s Canteen

Dickson’s pick for lunch on Wednesday was Colonel Mustard’s Canteen (12321 107 Ave). Though Hicks on Six named it the “city’s best” sandwiches, I always intended to hit up the Canteen for a pre-show dinner before a play at the nearby Roxy Theatre.

At any rate, we found a parking spot across the street from the restaurant and walked into a hailstorm. The Canteen was larger than I thought it would be, with a deep seating area in the back partitioned off by the cold case, counter and de facto lobby in the front. From what I could see, the walls were bright, the space cheery with natural light, and the area absolutely buzzing with what appeared to be a crowd of regulars.

Interior

As we were pressed for time, we opted for the faster “take out” option to eat our order at one of the tables by the door. We were told a waitress would be right with us, giving us a moment to survey the three large blackboards with a multitude of sandwich and wrap options, all priced around $10. The waitress brought us glasses of water as requested (making it difficult for me to distinguish between the waiting area we were supposedly in from the full-service tables in the back), and I decided on something light – an Italian sandwich with prosciutto, provolone, and vegetable spread on a French loaf – while Dickson ordered the Mustard’s Meatloaf (Italian sausage rolled with Italian meats and cheeses, baked in tomato sauce).

While we waited for our food (keeping our fingers crossed that our plates would be ready as expediently as promised), I had time to marvel at the amazingly efficient hostess. Dealing with a barrage of patrons ready to pay, escorting parties to their tables, and greeting customers stepping through the door, she was always friendly, and did not let the steady stream dampen her courtesy.

Our food arrived in small plastic baskets with a pickle each. What had been described as “meatloaf” on the menu board looked an awful lot like spam when Dickson lifted the Kaiser cover. The diced meat also made it hard to eat his sandwich, short of carving it up with a fork and a knife. Thankfully, I had a better experience with my sandwich– the loaf was fresh, and I loved the combination of mild provolone and salty prosciutto. Even better, I encountered bursts of basil with every bite.

 

Mustard’s Meatloaf

Italian Sandwich with Prosciutto and Provolone

While I wouldn’t describe the sandwich as the best I’ve had in Edmonton, lunch at Colonel Mustard’s convinced me that I’d have to return for dinner one day, even without the pretence of a theatre engagement.

Colonel Mustard’s Canteen
12321 107 Ave
(780) 448-1590
Tuesday-Saturday 11am-9pm

It’s All About the Box: Oodle Noodle Box

Because Teatro la Quindicina moved their evening start times back half an hour to 7:30pm, we needed a quick spot to pick up a bite to eat before a show Tuesday night. I immediately thought of Oodle Noodle Box (10803 82 Avenue). Though a little further up Whyte Avenue, it was still within brisk walking distance of the Varscona Theatre.

Exterior

Stepping into the narrow eatery, I was taken by how busy it was. There was just one booth left to snag, with some individuals in the lineup ahead of us leaving to take their conveniently-packaged food elsewhere to consume.

Interior

Mack and I scrutinized the huge menu on the wall, describing entrees priced between $6.99-8.50, many with curious names such as “Jungle Curry Cambogee” and “Singapura Box”. I decided to order my Asian take-out benchmark dish, the Bangkok Padthai Classic ($7.99): rice noodles in tamarind sauce with chicken breast, prawn, egg, green onions, bean sprouts, crushed peanuts and “whole lot of flavour”. Mack opted for the Combo Box ($8.50), which sounded like a mouthful with vegetables, chicken, beef, shrimp stir-fried with chow mein in hoisin sauce.

Massive Menu

The regular price of the food was already less expensive than Wok Box, but after the person at the till gave us not even an ounce of hassle when we handed over the coupon, there was no doubt Oodle Noodle was winning the box war.

As we waited for our food, Mack was able to surf the internet on his beloved iPod Touch on unsecured wireless – a fortunate byproduct of Oodle Noodle’s proximity to a residential area. When our order was announced (by an employee who was clearly having a great time doing his best “Here’s Johnny!” with order numbers) we grabbed our boxes and dug in with our chopsticks.

Cute boxes

The top of my Pad Thai

Mack using chopsticks

The food was undoubtedly better than the fare served at Wok Box (or, at least, Mack’s was), but I still preferred the Pad Thai at Thai Express. My order was lacking in peanuts, meat and sauce, and yet, was still very salty. Mack’s combo was filled to the brim with both vegetables and meat (thus, was the better deal for only 51cents more than mine), but after taking a look at the greasy residue left at the bottom of his box when he was finished, I was glad that I had already finished my meal.

With friendly and efficient service, I wouldn’t hesitate to try Oodle Noodle Box again. But I will be ordering something other than the Pad Thai, and hope for a more generous heaping of sauce and non-noodle ingredients.

Oodle Noodle Box
10803 82 Avenue (2 other locations in Edmonton)
(780) 988-7808
Monday – Thursday & Saturday 11am-10pm, Friday 11am-11pm, closed Sunday

Trial Run Success: Von’s Steakhouse & Oyster Bar

For my second and final Fork Fest meal, I met up with a few friends at Von’s Steakhouse & Oyster Bar (10309 81 Avenue) a new frontier for all of us.

Von’s

Having passed the building many times over on Gateway Boulevard, I never had the opportunity to notice the nice stone water features by the front doors. Upon entering the restaurant, I was immediately greeted and promptly directed to the table where two of my friends were already waiting. The particular room we were seated in was “masculine,” as Shermie described it – leather chairs, aged brick walls, smooth stone and dark wood wine cabinets – the type of space calling for a cigar, fireplace, and fine scotch. There are several rooms in the building, but I only managed to see one other en route to the restroom. With high ceilings, a dominant red color scheme and wooden chairs, it had a markedly different, more open and relaxed feel.

After Andrea joined our party (always fashionably late), we all ordered the three-course, $35 Fork Fest menu without hesitation. May’s soup, an interesting salmon cream concoction, actually tasted better than it initially sounded. My Caesar salad starter was not remarkable, but good (as expected, the bacon was real, and the croutons house-made).

Caesar Salad

Shermie’s entrée was the lone steak at the table, which she quite enjoyed. The rest of us opted for the Prime Rib (slow cooked for sixteen hours), which was served with steamed vegetables, Yorkshire pudding and au jus. With nice marbling through the generous cut of meat, it was a filling and satisfying dish.

Prime Rib with Yorkshire Pudding, Vegetables, Horseradish and Au Jus

For dessert, Andrea, May and I all ordered Ice Cream Crepes, with Shermie again the odd one out with the Pecan Pie. I wasn’t a fan of this last course – the rubbery texture of the crepe and the chilled banana did not appeal to me.

Ice Cream Crepes

All of us were stuffed by the end of our meal, and after an evening of attentive service and good food, we all agreed that Fork Fest accomplished what it was set-up to do – we would all be back at Von’s, ready and willing to pay for a dinner at regular price.

Von’s Steakhouse & Oyster Bar
10309 81 Avenue
(780) 439-0041
Dinner Monday – Sunday from 4:30 p.m.

Sweet Potato Goodness: Dadeo

Between my last visit to the Whyte Avenue favourite Dadeo (10548A 82 Avenue) and brunch there on Sunday, it seems the folks behind the diner opened a second location out in Vancouver. Good for them.

Most often recognized for their sweet potato fries, the low-key, relaxed atmosphere, smooth blues soundtrack, and fun decor such as vivid red booths and tabletop jukeboxes are also worth mentioning.

Booth

We were met with a modest gathering outside of the restaurant before the doors opened at noon. We took our time with the Cajun and Creole-inspired menu, and though the Southern fried chicken and gumbo were tempting, we all ended up ordering a Po’Boy (their version of a sandwich, served on a French loaf with coleslaw and a choice of side). Priced between $10-11, it was an easy decision to pay an additional $1 to upgrade our sides to sweet potato fries.

Like the time the bearer of coffee at Nellie’s tortured us with the visual of a full coffee pot, it was a clear half hour of seeing other people’s dishes waltz by our table before our own plates were delivered. A small biscuit topped with jalapeno jelly could only satiate each of us for so long.

Biscuits and jalapeno jelly

Thankfully, the food was ultimately worth the wait. The pulled pork in my po’boy was tender and flavourful, the meat’s juices complimented with a sweet BBQ sauce. Mack’s breakfast po’boy looked and tasted like an egg scramble on bread, which didn’t turn out to be an unsatisfying way to start out the day. The crown jewel of our meal was indeed the sweet potato fries – whatever spicy, salty seasoning they use to finish the golden pieces really elevate them beyond what they are – battered and fried root vegetables.

Our po’boys

Pulled Pork Po’Boy

Breakfast Po’Boy

One of Whyte Avenue’s best deals can be found at Dadeo on Monday and Tuesday. Forget pasta frenzy at Chianti’s – head to the cool diner for po’boys on special for just $8 – and remember to upgrade your fries.

Dadeo
10548A 82 Avenue
780.433.0930
Monday to Saturday 11:30am-11pm, Sundays noon-10pm, closed Wednesdays

Going Through the Motions: The Blue Pear

I had heard a lot of good things about The Blue Pear (10643 123 Street) – a small boutique restaurant, their creative menu changed on a monthly basis to reflect seasonal ingredients. Of course, given that they only served four-course pre-fixe menus at $85 per person, it wasn’t the type of place I would pick for a spontaneous dinner. With July’s Fork Fest, however, the $35 three-course meal was a great opportunity to give The Blue Pear a try without breaking the bank.

Mack and I had a reservation for 6pm on Thursday. The restaurant offers seatings every half hour, but because it was still relatively early, I was surprised that there were already a few parties in the dining room. The friendly hostess seated us in a dim corner, and left us with the wine list and the food menu, which included the Fork Fest specials at the top. I ordered a Sangria ($7) to start – a blend of red wine, fruit juices, and orange brandy – while Mack opted for a glass of Stella ($6), and we both asked for the Fork Fest meal.

Through the course of the evening, we were served by four different people. This could have made us feel taken care of, but the opposite actually occurred – the service as a whole was less personal and attentive because of the number of hands involved.

At any rate, our appetizer arrived promptly with the verbal promise of bread to come. The layered salad of marinated summer vegetables and fresh mozzarella was finished with a dressing of sundried tomatoes, herbs, and balsamic and mustard oil. The cheese overwhelmed the carrot, eggplant, roasted red pepper and zucchini, but I didn’t mind this as much as Mack did. Our bread didn’t arrive until after we requested it when our entrees were brought to us.

Marinated summer vegetables, mozzarella cheese, sun-dried tomato, herbs balsamic and mustard oil

Thankfully, the grilled Alberta pike fillet made us forget temporarily about the need for any carbs. Perfectly seared, the fish was flaky and tender on the inside. Served with a Bobby Flay-esque corn and black bean salsa and a deliciously rich herb butter sauce, the dish showcased well what the chef was capable of.

Grilled Alberta pike fillet with prawn, corn and black bean salsa, horseradish mashed potato and herb butter sauce

Dessert was a flourless chocolate cake topped with whipped cream, fennel and slivers of basil and accompanied by rosewater almond cream, milk chocolate rosemary sauce and basil oil. We both found the shredded basil an interesting garnish, one that Mack would have preferred left off his last course. The cake itself was lovely – sweet and dense as a flourless cake should be, with an intense chocolate flavour.

Flourless chocolate cake, confit of fennel, rosewater almond cream, milk chocolate rosemary sauce and basil oil

At dinner’s end, Mack said it felt like something was missing, as if the staff were just “going through the motions”. I couldn’t disagree – compared with our recent visit to Characters, Blue Pear just didn’t offer us the experience we were looking for. The food was great, but I’m not sure I’d return for an $85 meal.

The Blue Pear
10643 123 Street, 780.482.7178
Dinner only, Wednesday to Sunday from 5pm

Value Meal, Italian-Style: Italian Bakery

Wanting something other than what was waiting for me in the communal fridge, I headed to the Italian Bakery (10646 97 Street), hoping it would live up to the fantastic review in Vue Weekly two months ago.

Italian Bakery & Delicatessen

A modest line greeted me at the deli counter. A number slip indicated I was just three away from a custom sandwich built the way I wanted – and cheaper than the average supermarket pre-packed variety. A small (with 1 meat and 1 cheese) is just $2.50, a medium (with up to 2 meats and 1 cheese) is priced at $3, while a large (with 2 meats and 1 cheese) is $5, all garnished with either mayo, mustard, or vegetable spread  and banana peppers if so desired. Saran wrapped for no hassle travel, it would be the perfect sandwich to take on a picnic, or in my case, provide a reprieve from a lunch of weekday leftovers.

Deli counter

Menu

The time in line was actually a blessing in disguise, as it gave me some breathing room to decide which meat and cheese combination I wanted to try. After some deliberation, I chose chicken breast and German butter cheese to be paired with vegetable spread. One of the three behind-the-counter deli ladies (each with their own individual slicing machines) efficiently took my order and assembled my sandwich. I marvelled at how all of the employees were so cheery and friendly despite the growing crowd of hungry customers.

Also prompted by the review, I asked for a single slice of tiramisu ($2.50). With my meal ready, I snagged one of the three tables situated against the window (great for people watching) and dug in.

Small sandwich and tiramisu

The freshness of the bread was apparent, and with the accoutrements, it made me wonder why I had ever made a fuss over Pret a Manger‘s looks-better-than-it-tastes paper and plastic-encased sandwiches. As for the cake, the bottom half of the tiramisu was exactly what I was expecting – a coffee-soaked layer of homemade ladyfingers accented with a rich marscapone cream. My only wish was for the top half to have had an equal amount of spongy coffee goodness, instead of a dry cookie layer as it was.

While I can’t definitively say the Italian Bakery has the best meal deal in the area, it would at the very least find a place on the podium of values.

Salad Days of Summer: Sunterra Market

Drawn to Sunterra Market‘s Commerce Place location (2nd floor, 10150 Jasper Avenue) to satisfy a craving for vegetables, I was happy to find it absolutely hopping. I usually patronize them only after work hours for sweets, and thus have never had the opportunity to see it so vibrant.

I’m not sure about their recently completed renovations – the compartmental affect seems to block natural light from flowing through the previously more open space, and the “Frenchification” of everything (“bakery” has become “boulangerie”, garbage cans are now labelled “poubelle”) further increases Sunterra’s pretentiousness. At any rate, I’ll hold out final judgement after a few more visits.

On this day, I headed straight for the salad bar, where a focused employee was diligently filling up half-empty containers of salad options to satiate the bustling crowd. There were nearly two dozen options – a bed of spinach, wild greens, or romaine to be topped off by veggies (carrots, green peppers, grape tomatoes, among others), protein (hard boiled eggs, cubed ham, shredded chicken, chickpeas, sunflower seeds), various carbs (fried Asian noodles, croutons), cheese (feta, marble), and a choice of six unlabeled mystery dressings.

I picked up a plastic box, and with the Mongolie Grill principle of choosing the lightest ingredients, built my salad. I indulged a little – marble cheese cubes and a slice of roasted red pepper – which I thought would topple over my mainly spinach and white mushroom creation, but on the weigh station, the total came to just $3.70 (0.266kg at $1.39/100g).

Yes, maintaining a fridge and pantry of fresh ingredients would certainly be a cheaper way to go, but with the fun and variety possible with Sunterra’s fresh salad bar, I can see why people would shirk a packed lunch and opt for a spur-of-the-moment greens creation instead.

My salad, dressed with a healthy dose of raspberry vinaigrette

Big Plates of Mexico: Las Palmeras

We didn’t end up making a stop in Red Deer two weeks ago, so Mack and I planned a special trip down to visit Tom on Sunday. Tom didn’t object to our restaurant choice, so with Kim and Jon along for the ride, to Las Palmeras (3630 50 Avenue) we went.

Mack outside of Las Palmeras

The air-conditioned venue provided a much-needed respite from the 30+ degree weather. While we were greeted by a “HOLA” floor mat and a ceramic mariachi band, the overall kitsch was restrained – a decorative tiki bar and a neon Corona sign notwithstanding. Washrooms marked “Senioritas” and “Hombres” were expected, but still brought a smile to my face.

Dining area

Colorful display

The dining area we were seated in was comprised of booths as well as stand-alone tables, filled by three other parties on that late afternoon. Our efficient waitress tried to tempt us with “something refreshing”, but we stayed the course and stuck with food only. Mack and Tom opted for Chicken Quesadillas ($13.95), Kim and Jon the Super Burritos ($12.95), and I the lone Chicken Enchilada ($15.95). Mack and I topped off our plates with an order of Pupusas ($8.95) for good measure.

Just after we polished off the complimentary fresh-fried tortillas chips and house-made salsa, our pupusas appeared. Crispy hot corn tortillas concealed a deliciously savoury filling of ground pork, tomato, onion, zucchini and cheese. Like some supporting characters that steal the limelight away from the main players in a production, the wonderful appetizer overshadowed my entree.

Tortilla Chips and Salsa

Pupusas

Our main dishes, on kid-friendly, bright-bordered plates, arrived all with serving sizes I thought daunting for the average individual. Kim and Jon seemed to like their burritos fine (Jon even polished off the tortilla condiment container), while I think Mack and Tom had my share of entree envy with their quesadilla. My enchiladas, dressed with an overzealous amount of cheese, were not what I was expecting. The chicken baked up a tad dry, and the tough casing didn’t help matters. The beans were pretty good, accented with some green onion bite, but half of the rice on my plate was undercooked – more stirring in the communal pot needed, perhaps?

Super Burrito

Chicken Quesadilla

Chicken Enchilada

It was a snappy meal – quick, no-frills, and intensely filling (we all remained full for hours afterwards) – but for better quality and a much cheaper price for El Salvadoran versions of the above, I’d recommend El Rancho in Edmonton’s north end. Still, I’m excited to have finally been able to try something off the Gasoline Alley-beaten path, with many more yet to visit.

Tom and Kim

Mack and I

Go Elsewhere for Pho: Thanh Thanh Oriental Noodle House

Having learned from experience not to attempt to have lunch at Thanh Thanh Oriental Noodle House (10718 101 Street) during their peak midday hour, I met Dickson there at 1pm on a weekday. We hit the tail end of the rush, and were seated fairly quickly as the crowd started to disperse.

Making good on an earlier promise to try our their pho menu, I headed straight for that page and picked out the Soup Lover’s Delight with medium-rare beef ($7.45), while Dickson opted for the Northern Vietnamese Soup ($7.95) with thin slices of chicken, well done and medium rare beef.

As it was still fairly busy, I was surprised that our dishes arrived as fast as they did. We were both sad to see that the large-bowl standard of Pagolac and Hoang Long hadn’t rubbed off on Thanh Thanh’s serving size though. I found the broth oily with no depth of flavour, while Dickson commented that the pho in general wasn’t that hot. As well, the meat was sliced too thick for my liking, and really, by the time the bowl had been brought to the table, could have been considered well done.

As their other dishes aren’t bad, Thanh Thanh isn’t a complete write-off – just go elsewhere for pho.

Soup Lover’s Delight with Medium-Rare Beef

Northern Vietnamese Soup