Small on Servings and Service: Rigoletto’s Cafe

A few friends and I had dinner at Rigoletto’s Cafe (10068-108 Street) on Wednesday night. Extremely accessible, this Italian restaurant was located just off of the Corona LRT line.

The dining room was a dark, European-style bistro that looked from the furniture, carpeting, and lighting as if it hadn’t been updated since the late 80s or early 90s. Luckily, we were seated underneath one of the few spot lit tables, otherwise, we would have been eating over a single-flame candle and not much else.

Though I admit it was my fault for a) ordering the small versus the large plate, and b) not ordering a less mundane dish, I was disappointed with my tortellini in cream sauce – its equivalent at Chianti’s would have been several dollars cheaper and of similar quality. I had pasta-envy just looking at my friends’ rigatoni, penne, and lasagna, which were easily three times the size of my selection. Earlier, when we had put in our orders, I had asked our server if we could have separate bills, to which he scoffed, and ultimately didn’t even provide me with an answer. I couldn’t help but get the feeling that my question translated into my ridiculously small serving.

For dessert, I ordered a latte and the chocolate mousse. My coffee was all right (I find I much prefer the sweetened, less authentic varieties available at chain coffee shops), while the mousse had obviously been pre-made and refrigerated – much too rich and dense, the consistency was closer to pot de crème than whipped mousse.

Lastly, the service was spotty throughout the night. They were extremely short staffed, with three servers attending to the entire restaurant (which was surprisingly busy for a downtown location on a random Wednesday). Although our waiter was quite attentive initially, by the end, we had to signal not only to order our entrees, then dessert, but also to request and pay for our bill (which wasn’t, by the way, separated). I suppose Rigoletto’s could be the kind of place one dines at for an evening of uninterrupted conversation, but I would have still appreciated the occasional check-in from a friendly server.

With the abundance of restaurants I have yet to try, I would be hesitant to return to Rigoletto’s Cafe right away. But I do believe in second chances, so though the service received a failing grade from me on this round, I will allow for a retest in the future.

Modern Simplicity: Holt’s Cafe

On Saturday, May and I headed to Holt’s Cafe , located on the second floor of Holt Renfrew (10180-101 Street), for brunch.

We had both been wanting to eat there for ages, but it had to be a Saturday, as both of us wouldn’t have been able to get away for a lunch out of the office on weekdays, and Holt’s Cafe was closed on Sundays. In a recent Edmonton Journal piece, the reviewer cautioned all diners to make reservations early to ensure space availability, so about a week earlier, I called for a 12pm table-for-two.

When I arrived, the hostess immediately led me to a table by the window. Definitely one with a view, the glass overlooked the main floor of Manulife Place, and was positioned so it took full advantage of the sunshine filtering in from Manulife’s numerous skylights. Crisp white table linens contrasted nicely with the painted red walls, accented with the soft glow emanating from rectangular screen lamps. The minimalist decor scheme was chic, classy, and elegant, and an example of how a simple two-toned red and white color palette could be maximized to produce a warm but sophisticated design.

The cafe was moderately full, with patrons consisting mostly of mature couples and groups of ladies lunching. After getting settled, I nearly attacked the waitress for coffee, but she didn’t flinch at all, and even brought me cream without being asked (and of course, kept the refills coming). Unfortunately, there was no separate brunch menu, but I noticed that most of my fellow diners were choosing lighter meal options like salad or soup. Though dismayed because they had run out of Vegetarian Quiche, I decided to try the shrimp alternative anyway. May opted for the Whole Wheat Spaghetti topped with a curious Indian-inspired Marsala Sauce.

My portion was appropriately sized, and I wasn’t disappointed with the quiche. Light and fluffy, with a good flavor balance between the shrimp and the egg, it was the perfect brunch selection. Served with seasonal greens and a side of orange poppy seed dressing, the salad proved to be good companion to the quiche. My friend said her pasta was okay and not too spicy, but she would have preferred to have ordered my dish.

For dessert, we opted for the Lemon Tarts. They proved impossible to eat gracefully, as the filling was not viscous enough to adhere to the pastry shell. Though a tad too sweet for my taste (I prefer pastry cream), it wasn’t bad.

It was a wonderful dining experience, and while it may be some time before I can fit Holt’s Cafe into my lunch schedule again, I will be back to try their other entrees.

Dining room

View from the window

Menu and place setting

Daily Quiche with Seasonal Greens

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Marsala Sauce and Vegetables

Lemon Tarts

Coffee Shop Character: Sugar Bowl

After pho, Bettina and I were on the hunt for dessert. Our first choice was Leva Capuccino Bar in the University area, but it turns out to have shut down! It’s currently being renovated under a new name.

Thus, our second choice, thankfully located nearby, was the Sugar Bowl (10922-88 Avenue). I have quite a biased opinion of this cafe, with nostalgic affection connected to my first visit there. It involved a meeting with online (yes, online) fans of Billy Boyd, just prior to his appearance at the Garneau Theatre a few years ago (and no creepy pedophiles showed up).

The Sugar Bowl could be considered a younger, edgier relative of the Blue Plate Diner. I have always loved the decor – exposed brick, aged hardwood floor, roughly sanded tables, pendant lighting. On the downside, I have never been impressed by their service, as it has consistently proved to be mercifully slow, but on most occasions, I am willing to overlook it for its cozy cultivation of conversation.

When we arrived at 8, the room was about half full. By 9:30, however, it was packed, with groups of diners even patiently awaiting a table at the bar. We also found that as the night progressed, the lights were dimmed and the music volume was increased, with the song list switching from rock in favor of more techno-flavored tunes, making the atmosphere more in line with that of a bar.

Keeping it light, I ordered a vanilla hot chocolate and a Sugar Bowl Soufflé (made with Callebeaut chocolate). The hot chocolate came with a bit of a wait, and was lukewarm, but had a creamy, smooth vanilla flavor. The soufflé, on the other hand, took ridiculously long to make. When it finally arrived, more than thirty minutes later, the waitress apologized, saying that the order was tardy because the first one “collapsed.” Seeing the final product, I wondered what the previous creation looked like. Overturned on the centre of a square plate, and dressed with a shake of powdered sugar, I wasn’t sure what to make of it. I had never before had soufflé, so I was not a seasoned judge, but to me, the consistency was a cross between a pudding and a half-baked cake. The cocoa flavor was rather weak, actually, and I could have done with more tart confectioner’s sugar to supplement the dull, uninspired taste.

I can’t say I won’t be back, but it would likely be to sample their entrees instead.

Vanilla Hot Chocolate

Sugar Bowl Souffle with Callebeaut Chocolate

Quick but Dirty: Pho Hoa

On Thursday, Bettina and I went to Pho Hoa (9723-106 Avenue) in Chinatown for dinner. It has been years since I dined here, the last time being sometime in high school right after its grand opening. Nothing negative resonates with me from that experience, but this time, I’m sorry to say it left quite the impression.

First of all, trying to enter the restaurant was an ordeal in itself. There were several doors, all but one marked with faded, handwritten signs, or sealed shut with packing tape. Once in the dining room, we were abruptly seated with a curt nod and menus deposited at a random booth – the kind of turn-your-back service seemingly common at Chinese ethnic eateries.

I must say – the owners really let the place deteriorate. The seats and floors were dirty, and table legs were steadied with wads of paper napkins. Lighting was poor, with peripheral seats near the windows left in the dark with poor placement of overhead fluorescent bulbs. And though it must have been the same way all those years ago, I had forgotten about the communal chopstick and soup spoon jar. Still, with one glance at the rest of the place, the utensils begged for a personal scrubbing with the tea, Hong Kong style.

The waitress clearly had a low English proficiency. When asked, with the aid of hand gestures, about the thickness of the steak, her reply was “No.” Similarly, a clarification about the vegetables included in one of the dishes was left unanswered as well. Needless to say, ordering by number came to be quite handy. I did find the menus amusing though, with pictures and descriptions about the types of soup bowls offered; essentially, it was “pho for dummies.” I ordered the Pho Bo Vien (noodle soup with meatballs), while Bettina chose the Pho Tai (noodle soup with eye round steak).

One positive – the food did arrive lightning quick, definitely in less than five minutes. The portion size was noticeably smaller than Pagolac’s version, but even more egregious – the soup base was nearly flavorless. My friend had to resort to hoisin sauce as an additive. To me, the broth had an odd aroma that I couldn’t quite place. And no, I don’t think it had anything to do with beef.

We had chosen Pho Hoa on a whim. Not surprisingly, we won’t make that mistake again.

One shining example of a table in need of repair…

Pho for beginners!

Pho Tai

Pho Bo Vien

Deliciously Affordable: New Asian Village Lunch Buffet

A few girlfriends and I went to the new Strathcona Square location of New Asian Village (9808-34 Avenue) to try out their lunch buffet. I’m not a huge fan of buffets (unless I’m not paying) as I typically cannot eat enough to make the cost worthwhile. Thankfully, today’s meal was a mere $9.95; pennies for pounds of food!

Having only been open for three weeks, the restaurant still looked brand spanking new. Accented with Indian antiques, the dining room decor is subtle but effective – dark woods, red drop lamps, and corner booths draped with organza fabric. The buffet area is well designed, occupying one side of the room, and pointed to an obvious directionality. Hot dishes stewed in basins with sliding lids, and were the most functional yet stylish containers I’ve ever seen at a buffet.

There were over fifteen hot dishes available, including naan bread, saffron rice, chicken kadai and beef curry. I can’t remember the name of my favorite dish, but it used the same sweet, flavorful sauce as the butter chicken. Although a few curries were too spicy for my taste, the quality of the food was excellent, and even more amazing when the price is considered.

For dessert, I tried the rice pudding, but quickly put my serving aside, as there was a rather strong hint of ginger mixed in. The mango custard, on the other hand, was quite nice – light, and had a nice cooling effect after ingesting a variety of strongly seasoned meats.

The service was great, though I would caution the waitress about immediately telling about the “plumbing problems,” and out-of-order washrooms, which happened as soon as we sat down at our table. As our glasses of drinking water were delivered soon after, we weren’t sure if we should trust the water quality (we’re paranoid, what can I say?).

Despite the bathroom hindrance, New Asian Village is definitely worth a look. Be sure to check out their lunch and dinner ($14.95) buffet specials before it’s too late!

Cozy booths (with low, sunken cushions)

Table setting

Coconut display

Buffet set up

My (first) plate

Rice pudding dessert

Mango custard

Us!

Christmas Buffet: Sutton Place Hotel

This afternoon, my organization held it’s annual holiday party. As was the case last year, our lunch was held in one of the meeting rooms in the Sutton Place Hotel (10235-101 Street), with access to the Grande Ballroom where the main buffet was set up.

At $26.50 per person, it may seem pricey on the outset, but considering the type of food available, and the upscale elegance of the setting, it is fairly reasonable. The menu included roast turkey, baked salmon, beef tourtiere, and a variety of cold seafood platters. Although the spread was similar to last year’s offerings, I do believe the quality had much improved (granted, the mere act of conjuring up superlatives to describe this year’s lunch may have colored my perspective slightly). In particular, I found myself favoring the cheese perogies and carved ham. For dessert, I chose a slice of chocolate mousse cake (incorrectly labeled “double chocolate”), and as Rachel Ray would say: “Yum-o!”

Props to my coworkers who had created a Christmas-themed Jeopardy game to follow our meal. It was incredibly well put-together, with questions sampling Yuletide songs, pop culture, and charades.

Overall, it was a fun and relaxing way to spend an afternoon away from the office.

Table setting

Buffet line up

My plate!

Chocolate mousse cake

Unremarkable and Without Identity: Kelsey’s

My friend and I went to Kelsey’s (3203 Calgary Trail Southbound) on the southside for dinner last night. We wanted to go someplace casual, and Kelsey’s was a compromise between my pick (Blue Plate Diner), and his (Earl’s).

Kelsey’s is part of the Cara Family of food services, which also includes Second Cup, Milestone’s, Swiss Chalet and Harvey’s. This was my first time in this particular chain, and when asked to describe it, my friend remarked that the restaurants have a remarkable resemblance to Boston Pizza. After eating there, I would have to agree. But whereas, for example, Homefire Grill had an apparent identity crisis, Kelsey’s simply has no identity.

The main difference between the two (besides Howie Mandel’s overly obnoxious television spots) is that Kelsey’s’ “your neighbourhood bar & grill” tag automatically gears it towards adults, while BP’s “you’re among friends” is more all-around family friendly. My assessment is also supported by the decor in Kelsey’s. Dark, and not as well-lit and inviting as the neon-colored, Hollywood-postered Boston Pizza, it evoked a lethargic atmosphere more suited to twenty-four hour operations like Denny’s. This particular location seemed to showcase its lounge as well, as the main door opened up to reveal an elevated bar, flanked by two separate, smaller dining rooms on either side.

The menu had the requisite new-age salads, pastas, sandwiches, and grill items that are par for a casual dining course. I will say, however, that their “complete classic meal” was quite a steal – an appetizer, entree, and dessert for a few dollars more than the regular price of a main. I couldn’t pass up such a deal, so I ordered the Balsamic Chicken (two boneless chicken breasts marinated in garlic and spices, grilled and topped with a balsamic garlic cream sauce, served with garlic-mashed potatoes and vegetables), and a cup of broccoli cheddar soup to start. My friend opted for the build-your-own Chicken Fajita.

Our food arrived after an abbreviated delay, served by a waitress that reminded me of Kristin Chenoweth, all kinds of bubbly and grown-woman cute. My friend’s fajita came with much fanfare – a large platter containing, among other things, a sizzling plate of sautéed onions, bell peppers, and chicken. Four tortilla wraps didn’t seem like enough, but my friend didn’t complain. My soup was better than average; it was nice to see the serving topped off with fresh cheddar. On the other hand, the chicken was nothing to write home about, especially now that I’ve experienced 4th and Vine’s fabulous hazelnut garlic rub. The potatoes were a little on the runny side, and though the vegetables were good, steamed zucchini and broccoli shouldn’t be the best part of an entree.

We split my last course – the chocolate marshmallow truffle (chocolate truffle with marshmallows on a cookie crumb crust with white and dark chocolate, topped with real whipped cream). It’s a shame I was still sick, because the combination of truffle, crushed cookie, mini marshmallows, chocolate sauce and whipped cream was a Goldilocks dessert – not too sweet, but just right.

It’s hard to know if I’ll be back at Kelsey’s, because I was left with absolutely no lasting impression. It would be difficult to recall this restaurant in times of hunger.

Restaurant interior

Chicken fajita

Broccoli cheddar soup

Balsamic chicken

Chocolate marshmallow truffle

Reliable Standby: Swiss Chalet

My family and I had supper at Swiss Chalet in South Edmonton Common (2203-99 Street) this evening. Not glamorous but comfortable, Swiss Chalet is among my favorite casual dining spots – affordable, with a good menu, consistent quality, and friendly service.

We snagged seats in the lounge, as the dining room was buzzing with a typical frenzied Friday night crowd. Had I not been fending off a cold, I would have gone with my predictable selection of chicken pot pie, but today, I opted for the chicken quesadilla with a side of chalet chicken soup.

Though our food arrived after a longer wait than usual, I was happy with my dish. The portion size was larger than I expected, with four generous slices each packed with a healthy dose of chicken, cheddar cheese, onions and bell peppers. The soup was great as well – hot, flavorful, and filled my psychological need for chicken broth.

I hope to be well enough to enjoy an order of chicken pot pie soon!

Chicken club wrap with fries

Chicken quesadilla with chalet chicken soup

Not My Cup of Tea: Mikado Restaurant

As any restaurateur is well aware, lunch is the best way to more inexpensively sample an eatery’s fare. So although I am not a fan of Japanese food, I thought I’d give the southside Mikado (1903-98 Street) a shot this afternoon with my Mum.

I have to admit to being impressed by their decor. Designed to reflect a simple elegance, the dark wood and leather furniture, accented by cream-colored square and geometric lanterns aspired to offer Asian cuisine within a Western framework and expectations. Fronting the kitchen lay a full-service sushi bar, with uniformed chefs visibly at work. The waitresses too were costumed, complete with satin kimonos and tatami sandals. Non-descript flute and piano-heavy instrumentals streamed from the speakers.

In addition to regular tables and booths, patrons also had the option of renting private rooms. Before we left, my Mum and I asked for a brief tour, which they willingly obliged to. I must confess the kitschy part of me was enthused at the idea of eating at a low table, seated on the floor in a traditional manner. But that’s to buy into cookie-cutter culture, right?

We had heard that Mikado served lunch specials, but when questioned about these, the waitress merely pointed to the menu she had given us, and said that the specials were the Bento Boxes, priced lower than they would be at dinner. Balking at the idea of eating sushi, I settled on the Beef Teriyaki (beef slices, vegetable stir fry, rice), while my Mum decided on the A-1 Bento Box (sushi, sashimi, mix tempura, chicken teriyaki, salad, rice).

While we waited for our food, we enjoyed several cups of brown rice tea. Stronger than the jasmine tea they typically serve in Chinese restaurants, we marveled later on at how hot the brew stayed throughout our meal in the seemingly magically-insulated plastic teapot.

My Mum’s order came rather quickly, although I had to wait at least another five minutes for my own dish to arrive. Needless to say, for the price ($12.95), she wasn’t floored with her Bento Box. She said she much preferred the version available at Banzai (4608 Calgary Trail).

As for the Beef Teriyaki – to begin with, I was expecting a larger portion for $12.95. Although the beef itself was tender, the slices were bathed in oil, whereas I was hoping for more teriyaki sauce. The chopped cabbage, carrots, and broccolli were fine, but lacked pizzazz. And like my Mum, I knew of a better deal sold elsewhere – the Tokyo Express beef bowl.

Yes, I acknowledge that the higher prices paid at Mikado are for the atmosphere, but personally, I favor the dine and dash variety of Japanese cuisine offered at Tokyo Express.

Sushi bar

Booths

Cup and teapot

Bento Box

Beef Teriyaki

Upright Consistency: Doan’s Restaurant

I haven’t yet decided if I’m going to “repeat post” about restaurants I’ve already reviewed, but in this case, I do have some new pictures, so it is worth blogging about.

Following the Festival, a few friends and I went to Doan’s Restaurant, which I first wrote about in October. I’m quite uninspired about what to add to my previous review, but I do think this translates to a positive remark about Doan’s, as the service, food quality, and ambiance all remained consistent.

However, even though the dining room itself is better taken care of, and the portions are larger, I still consider the southside Pagolac my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in Edmonton. Pagolac is like a friend’s basement – I feel comfortable sitting back, and enjoy the conversation that flows and is facilitated by a casual atmosphere. Because of the decor at Doan’s, I am conscious of the need to sit upright, as the environment dictates more formal behavior.

Perhaps the way to go is Pagolac for dining in and Doan’s for take out?

Dining room