Category: restaurant reviews

Holiday Indulgence: Unheardof

It was a little amusing to me that I hadn’t heard much about Unheardof (9602 82 Avenue), an upscale restaurant on the southside. The menu stated that it has been around for nearly thirty years, but to me, save for passing it travelling on Whyte Avenue, it may as well have been an empty storefront. I knew, however, after digging around the website that a meal at Unheardof wouldn’t be an inexpensive one, so when Mack told me we would be going there for his company’s Christmas celebration, I was happy that I would be able to give it a try on someone else’s dime.

We snagged a parking spot on the street, and headed inside. The building must have once been a house, and as a converted restaurant, it reminded me a bit of Manor Cafe and Violino. We were greeted by someone immediately, who took us to the second floor dining area. I was a little sad that we wouldn’t be seated on the main floor, as the warmth of the incandescent lights, coupled with lovely wreaths and other decorations made it a festive and comfortable room. Upstairs, though we were offered a table in a more private space shared with just two other parties, lit by an overhead fluorescent light, the room had a cooler feel to it.

Our dining area

When everyone had arrived, we took our time with the menu. Entrees were all priced at a standard $45, while starters and desserts were left without a corresponding price. The menu detailed the restaurant’s new Table d’Hote approach, where additional courses could be added to the base entree price – 2 courses total cost $60, 3 courses $70 and 4 courses $80. Feeling fairly indulgent, we all opted for at least three courses each – an appetizer, main, and dessert.

Mack went straight for the Sea Scallops (seared giant sea scallops seasoned with cumin and coarse salt served on a green lentil ragout with paprika oil and ragout), while I couldn’t resist the sound of Wild Mushroom Risotto (mushroom stock arborio risotto with Lobster and chanterelle mushrooms, fresh thyme, gruyere and mascarpone cheeses, sea beans). For mains, we both selected the Muntok Beef Tenderloin.

Mack’s coworkers were extremely accommodating of our typical dining routine, and very generously let us photograph (and with Greg, even sample) all of their dishes. We have them to thank for the extensive gallery of dishes to follow.

Between the wine and the conversation, the evening flowed smoothly. Service wasn’t notable, but was seamless. The first food item we received were complimentary “tapas”, though I considered it more of an amuse bouche. The pumpkin seed and cheddar pork pate wasn’t to my liking or Mack’s, though Greg quite enjoyed the sample (and Alina’s as well). The grainy, salty paste just reinforced what we had first expressed at Characters after having their foie gras.

Pork pate

Our appetizers arrived in a reasonable amount of time, all portioned so the majority of diners would be able to finish three whole courses. I took a risk with the risotto, particularly because my last experience with the dish at Blink in Calgary left much to be desired, but I’m glad I did. Their version is probably the best I have ever had – cooked to creamy perfection, with a good mushroom-to-rice ratio. I’m sure I could have eaten more, but with that taster size, I would consider coming back again just for the risotto. Mack thought his scallops were all right, but said the ones he had at the Wildflower Grill were better.

Wild Mushroom Risotto

Sea Scallops

After a lovely sorbet palate cleanser, our entrees arrived. The presentations weren’t particularly artful, bit the kitchen did their best to accent dull-colored meats with some vibrant produce. Our sides were hidden underneath the steak, a mix of roasted onions, sauteed mushrooms, and a crunchy potato pancake. The tenderloin had been crusted with peppercorns, adding a bit of spice to an otherwise fairly conventional dish. It is worth mentioning that both of our steaks were perfectly cooked – Mack’s was a touch more done as he had requested medium versus my medium rare.

Muntok Beef Tenderloin

Game Trio

Seafood Aqua Pazza

Duck and Quail

Herbed Loin and Lamb

Dessert for me was their Creme Brulee, which the server said was flavoured with cinnamon and rum that day. Mack opted for the Egg Nog Pie (what else?), while Mike ordered the lone White Chocolate Cranberry Cheesecake and Alina the only Turtle Tart. While I couldn’t taste the supposed flavour in my creme brulee, the fruit garnish and hidden inside the custard added some nice freshness to the dish. Mack actually didn’t enjoy the pie – the pecan crust was overpowering, and the filling didn’t live up to the name at all.

Creme Brulee

Egg Nog Pie

White Chocolate Cranberry Cheesecake

Turtle Tart

Thanks again to Questionmark for dinner! The only downside to being spoiled, however, is that any subsequent meals there will seem doubly expensive. So while Unheardof left a good first impression, I’m not sure it is worth the price of admission – I’d opt for the Red Ox Inn instead, which offers food of similar quality at a much lower rate.

Unheardof
9602 82 Avenue
(780) 432-0480
Dinner only, Tuesday to Sunday from 5:3opm

Worth the Splurge: Wildflower Grill

I had mentioned my exquisite meal at Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street) so many times to Mack in the last year that he was eager to give it a whirl of his own at the next opportunity. We finally made time on Thursday to go and see if the standard of excellence outlived the new car smell.

 

Wildflower interior

The restaurant served just four other tables for the duration of our visit, so for that reason (and the basic principle of welcoming), we found it surprising that the hostess greeted us with an abrupt “Do you have a reservation?” as soon as we walked through the door. Granted, we could have simply surprised her, but a “How are you?” would have been an acceptable preface.

At any rate, we were shown to a table by the window, one of my favourite places to sit in any restaurant. Our server promptly came to take our drink order, and throughout the evening, was attentive without being overbearing – I was happy to see that their service had not declined in quality since my inaugural visit.

The menu appeared to be unchanged, which was fine with me, as I had intentions to sample a dish free of fruits de mer this time around. To start, Mack couldn’t resist the temptation of Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns ($15), and decided to continue on the seafood theme with Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions ($31) as his entrée. I was decidedly in the land corner that day, and the Herb-Crusted Venison Medallions ($38) struck my fancy.

As expected, our server teased our palate with an amuse bouche, of stewed figs this time. I didn’t care much for the cream cheese finish, but I still adored the complimentary sample from the chef. Next was the included treat I was looking most forward to – brioche bread served with two kinds of butter. It was just as good as I remembered – warm from the oven, crisp on the outside, but soft and chewy on the inside. Heavenly.

 

Amuse bouche

Brioche bread service

We weren’t halfway through our bread, however, when our appetizer appeared. Mack was immediately distracted by the sight of shrimp and scallops, and I was less than interested. The two accompanying sauces provided a color pop to the dish, but were also quite tasty – Mack preferred the lime green chili sauce, while I liked the bite of the red chili sauce. The potato crown which encased the seafood tower was a nice edible addition as well.

Coconut Buttered Tiger Prawns

Anticipating entrees that would arrive prior to completing our appetizer, we finished the plate in no time. To our relief, there was a lengthened pause from the kitchen, and we waited comfortably, sipping our drinks and enjoyed the relaxed ambiance of a quiet dining room.

Our entrees were a canvas to behold. A tiny ceramic pot (adhered to the square plate with the help of mashed potato) supplied a miniature dish within a dish, while the rest of the sides painted a lovely array of colors, accenting the bold, deep pink of the venison medallions which were drenched in a ruby sauce. Mack’s salmon medallions were also heightened visually with beautiful vegetables, though the fish and shrimp were already so vibrant in color that they didn’t need much in the way of accents.

This was my first experience with game, and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Though the texture was different than beef or bison, I’m not sure I would be able to identify the meat as “game” in a blind taste test. The crust and the huckleberry compote were great accompaniments, so I have no complaints on preparation or presentation, but as the dish was served with an oxtail ragout, it was difficult not to prefer the softened shards of braised meat served in a lovely broth. Mack’s lobster and crab-stuffed salmon medallions were the closest he’d probably get to recreating Homer Simpson’s “lobster stuffed with tacos” request, and he enjoyed them thoroughly. He didn’t really think there was a need for the butternut squash gnocchi, however, which didn’t seem to relate to the other parts of the dish.

Herb-crusted Venison Medallions

Pan-Roasted Sockeye Salmon Medallions

We were both stuffed by the end of our mains, and opted not to order dessert. Between the amuse bouche, bread course, and complimentary chocolate they provided prior to handing us our bill, we felt that the diner’s experience was a top priority for staff. It was definitely not an inexpensive meal, but for a special occasion, the Wildflower Grill is worth the splurge.

Wildflower Grill
10009 107 Street
(780) 990-1938
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 5-9pm, Friday – Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Sunday 11am-2pm
Appetizers $10-22, Entrees $26-49, Desserts $12

Refined for Expansion: Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria

With the number of restaurants I have yet to try in Edmonton, it’s a wonder I ever make it back to the establishments that I think are deserving of a return visit. So it sometimes helps to have a sweetener. In Famoso’s case, it was in the form of a $50 certificate I bid for in an online auction. Having paid just $32 for the certificate, I thought it was quite the steal.

After a long day at work, Mack and I took the bus to Famoso (11750 Jasper Avenue), and on the way back, intended on walking off the glut of calories we would consume over the course of the evening. We walked in, and were both taken by how busy it was on a random weekday – there was just one table remaining, which we snagged immediately.

While not much had physically changed inside the restaurant, the vibe and the ambiance showcased a more refined Famoso ready to woo patrons from a higher age and income bracket. Gone were the college-esque instructional photos demonstrating how to fold and eat their thin-crust pizzas, as were the deli-style microphone announcements for order pickups. In their place were sleek, professionally photographed shots of sophisticated women enjoying a meal, and table service provided by two buspersons. Famoso had also added a reserve wine list to their menu, inviting patrons to linger and stay on to finish an accompanying bottle of wine with their pizza – a shift from our early comparison to an eat-and-go sandwich joint. Wednesdays now saw a weekly wine tasting event from 6-8:30pm, and the past few months have blossomed with a promotion they call “Famoso’s next Top Chef”. Referencing the popular reality television show, customers can submit their idea for a Neopolitan-style pizza for a chance to have their creation served as the pizza of the month at the restaurant.

The cheery and energetic staff person who took our order said that business has been swift for about a year – probably just picking up prior to our last visit. She was exceptionally helpful and enthusiastic about her work, and was someone Famoso should definitely reward – servers like her are an asset to an organization. At any rate, we ordered (at the counter – that much hadn’t changed), deciding upon the Margherita Pizza, with cherry tomatoes ($11.50) and the Sweet BBQ Chicken ($14), a pizza with a smoked BBQ sauce, roasted chicken, gouda, tomatoes, red onion and cilantro.

We sat down (by this time, a booth had opened up, meaning that there would be at least some light cast on our table), and a few minutes later, our pizzas were brought directly to us. After tasting a slice of Mack’s pizza, I realized I should have probably be more adventurous and chosen something a little off the beaten path. I loved the smoky, tangy sauce, which reminded me very much of the base used on Panago’s Tropical Hawaiian pizza. The Margherita wasn’t bad though – between the chewy, soft dough, and the lovely melted circles of fresh mozzarella, I was definitely enjoying my second Famoso experience.

Margherita Pizza

Sweet BBQ Chicken

Though we were both pretty stuffed from our individual pizzas, I pressed on and ordered a Nutella Pizza ($7). The chocolate calzone-like dessert was the real reason behind my second trip, as it sounded intriguing when I saw it on the menu the first time around. After ordering it at the counter, we sat back and waited. When the plate was delivered, a table nearby looked on with jealous eyes – the prepared calzone had been cut up into easy-to-eat slices, drizzled with chocolate sauce, and finished with whipped cream. The combination of warm, chewy dough and nutella was a good one, but by the time we had each consumed a few slices, we were wishing for an additional accent ingredient like bananas or strawberries. The platter was definitely meant to be shared by more than just two.

Nutella Pizza

My first visit to Famoso led me to believe that it was aligned with producing pizza for the fast food market, but after my most recent experience, I’d recommend it for a casual business lunch, a date, or a place to catch up with friends. I credit the owners with developing the brand into one I can see continually expanding in the Edmonton restaurant scene.

Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria
11750 Jasper Avenue (another location opening in Terwilligar at 142 Street & 23 Avenue in January)
(780) 732-0700
Appetizers $5-12, Entrees $10-14, Desserts $1.50-7

Service No Man’s Land: Sutton Place Hotel

I’ve written positively before about the Christmas buffet offered at the Sutton Place Hotel (10235 101 Street), so count me as surprised when a recent visit to their twice-weekly Chocoholics Buffet turned out to be a less-than-stellar experience.

Janice wanted to check out the dessert event as part of her birthday night out, and May, Annie and myself were more than happy to oblige. $16 per person seemed a small amount to pay for the right to gorge out on a variety of chocolate sweets, especially when the price included an alcoholic beverage.

We knew from the website that the buffet was open from 5-10pm, so we had a relatively large window to make it down there. After a bite to eat at Lazia, we walked over to Sutton Place and headed straight for the main floor lounge, where the buffet was supposed to be set up.

There is apparently live jazz to accompany the buffet on the last Thursday of every month. That really would seem to be the best time to visit, as the ambiance was lacking that night – the only music we could hear drifted down from the restaurant proper a floor above us, just barely overshadowing the natural buzz of a hotel lobby. The lounge itself was also extremely dim – there were a few peripheral lamps that did their best to make up for a lack of overhead lights, but we found ourselves wishing for a tabletop candle or two.

We hoped the food would make up for the aesthetics of the lounge, and the spread looked quite promising. There were over ten varieties of desserts, including cheesecake, creme puffs, chocolate shooters, a brownie pizza, and a mousse cake. A silver vessel also contained warm chocolate to drizzle over fruit, but best of all, they had a staff member available to make crepes. And like vegetarian entrees on steakhouse menus, they did have a few non-chocolate desserts, including a plain vanilla cake.

Chocoholics Buffet spread

We found a table and waited a few minutes for one of the two waitresses to acknowledge our presence, but our patience waned. At some point, we decided to be proactive and simply load up our table with plates, hoping that might alert the staff that we needed some assistance.

Crepes were up first for all of us. Kim, the chef on hand, provided a nice personal touch to the experience. We asked her about how busy the buffet was on a typical evening, as there was only one other customer dining alongside our group, and she said that during a busy period (such as CFR week), around 7-10 patrons would frequent the buffet. That seemed to me like an awfully low number (particularly if such busy swings were few and far between) for the Sutton Place to continue to offer such a spread twice weekly. She assured me that the food didn’t go to waste, and as employees were given a three-course meal after every shift, that all of the leftovers would be consumed by staff.

Kim busy behind her station

Back to the crepes – once she folded over the crepe, we were able to choose from a variety of sweet and savoury toppings. I decided to add strawberries, chocolate, and sliced almonds to my chewy crepe. It was quite good, and knowing we could go back for seconds and thirds was a reassuring thought.

My personalized crepe

We tackled the main dessert table next, and I attempted to taste a little piece of everything. After careful deliberation (and three plates), I decided I liked the flourless chocolate cake the best. It was moist, the texture was just right, and though it was fairly rich, I appreciated the dense chocolate flavour. The chocolate-dipped strawberries came in a close second.

Plate #2

After we had returned to our table with our first “courses”, the waitress did come to take our drink order. When asked if they had any dessert wine, she told us that we should be drinking a less sweet wine so as to not take away from the desserts. I would be the first to admit that I am by no means a wine snob, but all of us at the table knew that she was wrong. She poured us all a white wine, which ended up being quite nice, but we were off-put by her initial error.

The service didn’t improve over the evening, as by the end of our stay, just one waitress was left in the area. We actually felt really bad for her – I’m sure the short staffing was a product of the boom – but it made our experience less noteworthy on a positive level.

While the buffet is a good deal, and those who like chocolate should definitely look into it, don’t expect to get more out of it than a meal to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Us, ten pounds heavier

Sutton Place Hotel
10235 – 101 Street
(780) 428-7111 
Chocoholics Buffet every Thursday and Friday, 5-10pm

Mixed Makeover: Lazia

In the past on this blog, I have mentioned  my disdain for Lazia (10200 102 Avenue). However, after being wowed earlier this year at their newest outpost, the Wildflower Grill, I was in the right frame of mind to give Lazia another try, especially after seeing that their downtown location had been completely remodelled, from the interior to the menu. I had trust that Chef Yoshi Chubachi could spread some of that Wildflower magic to the rest of Lazia’s holdings.

Prior to a show at the nearby Citadel Theatre, Mack and I headed to the restaurant with with expectations in check. We were greeted by a hostess, and immediately taken past the lounge, into the dining room, and offered a choice seat in a rounded banquet. Plush and large enough to easily accommodate a party of five, we enjoyed the semblance of privacy our table provided us.

The decor in the dining area hadn’t changed as much as in the lounge. I was happy to see that the blown-glass sculpture had been saved through the renovation, but besides some minor furniture adjustments, the core of the dining room seemed to have remained the same (granted, my image of the restaurant is several years old). The lounge, however, was now sleek and sophisticated, with the back wall a popping orange shade, a bar with ample seating situated in the centre, and a small glass area in the front lined with couches – perfect for a girls night out.

Dining area

I was most excited about the potential of the new menu. While it did look a lot better on the outset than what I remembered, it was a bit scattered (though to be fair, most mid-range restaurants Lazia is trying to compete with have the same problem). I did really like the fact that there were two streams of desserts to choose from – a range of $8 regular desserts and a set of $5 plates to satisfy those just looking for something small.

I ended up ordering the roasted butternut squash Ravioli ($23) in a white truffle rosé sauce, while Mack opted for the Colossal Prawns ($25), served with a laundry list of accompaniments, including a panko crusted crab cake, cooked shrimp ceviche, miso soya sugar snap peas, basmati rice, sweet
pineapple curry and tomato & corn confit.

Service was great throughout, much improving my outlook on Lazia. Our food was also delivered quite promptly, with a flare for plate presentation – our dishes were treated like pieces of art, the white plates an empty canvas for visual design. The portion sizes, however, left much to be desired – though Mack enjoyed his meal, he could have easily consumed two of the same. My pasta was too sweet all around, between the filling, the sauce, and the accent vegetables – I found no delicate interplay between flavours (as with Rob Feenie’s masterful interpretation at Cactus Club Bentall 5).

Colossal Prawns

Ravioli

Overall, we found the Lazia dining room to be a local, but pricier version of the upscale casual brand purported by the Earls and Joeys of the world. We’d be back to try the desserts, but probably after a cheaper meal elsewhere.

I was back at Lazia sooner than I had expected – a two days after my meal with Mack, a few girlfriends and met up for a bite to eat in the lounge. I now have a better appreciation for the reason why food reviewers at major newspapers visit restaurants multiple times to sample dishes off all parts of the menu – I was ready to give Lazia a thumbs up after our dinner, but following our lounge experience, I’d include a small asterisk on that recommendation.

While the lounge was busy, it wasn’t as packed as we thought it would be on a Friday evening. Though it was clear that our party was still waiting for one more, none of the waitresses thought to check on us to see if we wanted to order anyway – a clear twenty minutes passed before we were acknowledged by any of the staff members after sitting down.

Eventually, we were asked to order. The small plates ranged from $6-12, the dishes influenced by the same haphazard “world cuisine” philosophy that dominated the entree side of the menu. I ended up choosing the Ginger Beef ($9), Janice and May the Garlic Prawns ($12), and Annie the Patatas Bravas ($6), or Spanish home fries, because the kitchen had run out of sweet potato fries.

The kitchen was thankfully more together than their floor counterparts, and our dishes were delivered in good time. Based on our sampling, we weren’t too impressed with the appetizers – my ginger beef was barely above the standard served at Beijing Beijing, while Janice couldn’t taste any garlic in her prawns. Annie’s dish sounded great on the outset, but really, the home fries were really a fancy name for potato wedges.

Ginger Beef

Garlic Prawns (served with smoked tomato bruchetta)

Patatas Bravas (served with a really well-executed red onion watermelon salad)

Also worth mentioning was an out-of-place employee who, while well-intentioned, put us off. She came by our table twice, leaned her elbows on the table, and almost seemed like she was going to pull up a chair to join our group. She asked about the occasion of our get-together, and about how we felt about our food thus far. We didn’t hesitate to answer her questions, but the way in which she asked seemed awkward and forced – an attempt at connecting with customers that failed.

And so, the asterisk – the lounge, with a vibe for those to see and be seen (similar to Hundred), is chic for an after-work drink, but for food, choose the mains over the appetizers.

Lazia
10200 102 Avenue (one other location)
(780) 990-0188
Sunday, Monday and holidays 11am-10pm, Tuesday to Saturday 11am-midnight
Appetizers $6-12, Entrees $9-43, Desserts $5-8

Better Luck Next Time: Marco’s Famous

For a quick food stop prior to a Revolutionary Speakers’ Series lecture by Sue Johanson (of Sunday Night Sex Show fame), we opted to try Marco’s Famous in the Students’ Union Building on campus (8900 114 Street). We always walk by the “flagship” Whyte location with intentions to stop, but timing has never worked out.

On this day, the line at SUB merchants was clearly favouring the new Taco Time (which replaced Funky Pickle), but there were still a few customers hovered around the Marco’s order counter. It didn’t take me long to decide on a Cheeseburger ($5.50), while Mack decided to taste the Donair ($6.50). We topped off our dinner with an order of large fries ($4.00).

Our order was complete in just a few minutes, and we quickly found a seat to chow down as we watched the line to the Myer Horowitz grow. My 6oz. burger looked pretty standard – the patty topped with condiments, onions and a pickle. But when I bit into it, it started oozing ketchup – so much so that the ketchup began leaking from the top of the bun. And at $5.50, I would have preferred a chargrilled Harvey’s burger. Mack found his donair under a similar sauce-siege – it was messy and thus difficult to eat. The fries were also a disappointment – bland and under-seasoned, we would have welcomed salt or adornment of any kind.

Cheeseburger

Remnants of Mack’s donair

Fries

Though we are willing to give Marco’s another try (and not judge all outlets by our experience at this one), they will definitely have to step up to the plate next time.

Marco’s Famous
8900 114 Street
(780) 437-8644

Hearty and Unpretentious Fare: Spago

To mark the sad occasion of my 2008 Entertainment Book expiring, we had dinner at Spago (12433 97 Street NW) to utilize one last coupon.

I have been quite curious about the Portuguese restaurant – from what I could gather on the web, it has been around for a while, and is frequented by a series of regulars.

While the restaurant wasn’t at capacity on the Saturday evening that we visited, we were told by the hostess that business was picking up as the holiday season approached. The open room was conducive to the feeling of being in a large, welcoming kitchen accented with rustic wooden beams and large curtains that could be utilized as privacy denominators. The space looked like it hadn’t been touched since the eighties, with the telling stained-glass lamps above the bar and the buffet reminding me of Bonanza and many meals of my childhood, but at the same time, I felt at home in the room.

We were seated at a back corner booth, which, while tucked away for a sense of privacy, may have made it difficult for our server to know we were there. Thankfully for Mack, our wait was made easier with the open-access wifi he was able to connect to (like Oodle Noodle, the unintended benefit of being situated in a residential area). When our waitress finally greeted us for the first time, she apologized, and after that, steadily made up for our initial misgivings.

Admitting my own ignorance for Portuguese fare, I wouldn’t have been able to discern the authenticity of any dish, but the Pan-Seared Halibut ($23) grabbed my attention. Mack opted for the Paella ($23), hoping it would duplicate some of the flavours of Spain, where he first had the dish. I appreciated the upfront nature of the menu, which specified which dishes were not eligible for the coupon discount.

The kitchen was on the ball, as we didn’t have to wait long at all for our food. Steaming plates of were delivered to us, with Mack’s dish being a little more visually appealing than mine. The Mediterranean rub used on my 8oz. halibut was great – just enough kick to flavour but not overwhelm the fish, while the roasted garlic and tomato confit was a sweet accompaniment. Mack thoroughly enjoyed his paella, and the balanced amount of seafood and then some included (mussels, clams, prawns, shrimp, calamari, scallops, chicken chourico and pork), though he wished it didn’t cool down so fast – the rice didn’t quite taste the same cool as it did piping hot.

Pan-Seared Halibut

Paella

I’m really glad Spago decided to advertise in the Entertainment Book; we likely would have never wandered in on our own accord to find a venue great for families offering hearty and unpretentious fare.

Spago
12433 97 Street NW
(780) 479-9328
Monday – Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday 11am-midnight, Saturday, 4pm-midnight, Sunday, 11am-9pm
Appetizers $6-12, Entrees $16-50, Desserts $4.25-8

More Than Just Cocktails: Devlin’s

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

Edmonton’s third tweetup, an event for local Twitter users to get together in person, was held on Thursday evening. The tweetups aren’t terribly hard to organize, all I need to do is pick a date, time and location. I asked Sharon to help me choose the venue this time, and she suggested Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge (10507 82 Avenue). I had enjoyed our visit in August, and agreed that it would be a good choice. I was keen to try the new fall menu that Sharon had written about in her Vue Weekly article. I called a couple of weeks in advance to ensure they could accommodate a group of 15 to 30 people, and they assured me that wouldn’t be a problem. A few days before the event, they called me back to confirm, which I thought was a nice touch.

When I arrived at the restaurant just before 6pm, I found it locked. After a moment of panic, I peered through the window and caught the attention of Executive Chef Sebastian Lysz who came to unlock the door for me. Fortunately, that was the only hiccup of the evening! My fellow Twitterers started streaming in, and soon we filled up the entire right side of the restaurant. We had around 25 people come and go by the time the evening was finished, and although not everyone ordered food, Sebastian was kept sufficiently busy in the kitchen.

Mack & Sharon
Mack & Sharon, photo courtesy Bruce Clarke

I was occupied chatting with people, so I was more than happy to let Sharon order for me. The first dish that arrived was the Wild Mushroom & Chicken flatbread ($9). Though it didn’t look incredibly appetizing being almost completely devoid of color, it tasted very good. The chicken (from a local producer in Ardrossan) was moist and the bread itself was nicely warm and chewy. I found the mushrooms flavorful, but not overpowering.

Flat bread

The second dish we ordered was also the one I was most looking forward to: the Surf & Turf ($15). Reminiscent of the sliders in its presentation, the dish was definitely easy on the eyes. Unfortunately the portion size was also similar to the sliders, and I found myself wanting more when the plate was empty. The tri-tip steak from Spring Creek Ranch was absolutely delicious, and I enjoyed the roasted potatoes too (though Sharon didn’t). We both agreed that the prawns were fairly average.

Surf and Turf

Usually we’re too full after dinner to have dessert, but that wasn’t a problem thanks to the small size of the dishes at Devlin’s. We decided to give the Dessert Sampler ($15) a try, as it sounded more interesting than the Creme Brulee. Though I couldn’t have the Peanut Butter Bombe (due to my mild peanut allergy), I was able to try the other items. I liked the warm Fruit Crumble in an over-sized shot glass, but my favorite was easily the Bacardi Rum Pumpkin Pie. I love both rum and pumpkin pie, so it was a match made in heaven for me! The Chai Voyant Nitro Ice Cream (with “nutella” powder) was interesting, but it didn’t evoke the familiar flavor of chai.

Dessert Platter

We received great service all night, and everyone seemed to enjoy the food and ambience. A number of people remarked that they were pleasantly surprised with the lounge, and said they’d probably be back. Devlin’s is not the place to go if you’re starving (or feeling the pinch in your wallet), but if all you’re looking for is something tasty to go along with conversation, I can safely say it’s a great choice for small and large groups alike.

The key thing to know about Twitter is that entries are restricted to 140 characters. With that in mind, here’s my mini-review of Devlin’s:

More than just a cocktail lounge, Devlin’s has unique, tasty food and adds something special to Whyte Avenue. Just don’t arrive too hungry!

Devlin’s Cocktail Lounge
10507 82 Avenue
(780) 437-7489

Polished but Pricey: Origin India

After visiting the new Old Strathcona office of Lift Interactive (where we won the cutest his and hers t-shirts), Mack and I walked over to Origin India (10511 82 Avenue), the new upscale Maurya Palace outpost. I originally reported about the “coming soon” status of Origin India back in April, and seven months later, it finally opened, apparently because they had to get up to code.

At any rate, we walked past the taped-up paper menu outside, through the doors, and were immediately transported into a world away from the hustle and bustle of Whyte. To the right of the entrance was what looked like a take-out counter, but for the moment was sparkling new and unused. We walked down a few stairs into a dimly lit room and joined the three other parties already seated.

Dominated by brown and reds, the space was warm but chic. Dark leather banquets lined both walls, and above the seats was a wooden, compartmentalized wine shelf that spanned the same length. The buffet section and bar was situated at the back of the room, and without a divide of any kind, the room felt open and welcoming. Knowing that the former occupant of this space was a dollar store, I really have to commend the owners for the absolute transformation they have overseen – I can see how additional construction time would have been necessary.

Interior

At the beginning of our visit, the music veered towards the annoying tinkering favoured at Khazana, but thankfully by the end of the night, had switched to an upbeat, Bollywood techno that in my opinion suited the space and the location better.

We were told the buffet was available, but were also provided with menus in case we decided to go the a la carte route. At $19.95 per person, the buffet wasn’t cheap, but we figured it was the best way to sample this new establishment’s fare.

The diamond-shaped plates were an interesting choice, and to some extent, the fact that there was a wide border around it made it easier to grip while we travelled the buffet line. I was disappointed to find, however, that there were only eight hot entrees (plus rice, salad and dessert) to choose from. Along with quality, I figured $20 should also buy variety.

Buffet line-up

We piled our plates high with a sample of everything, and returned to our table where a basket of fresh naan was waiting. The naan was more crisp and not as “doughy” as others I have tried, but the made-to-order factor was a real plus. My favourite dish was the lamb curry – tender, flavourful  and just spicy enough, it was a departure from my usual butter chicken preference. Mack, however, enjoyed his serving of butter chicken, though his only complaint was his need to cut the chicken into more manageable, one-bite sizes (he should have also asked for a shovel in place of a fork, heh).


Our plates (they were almost identical)

The service was fabulous throughout – our waiter checked in with us just often enough to make us feel taken care of without intruding. While I am not sure I will be back (at least not for the pricey buffet), along with Devlin’s next door, I really am starting to see the shift in Old Strathcona businesses from those who target the partying set to those that primarily serve working professionals.

Origin India
10511 82 Avenue
(780) 436-0558
Sunday to Thursday 11:30am-11pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30am-2am

Lunch Time Pressure: Viphalay

I’d heard much ado about Viphalay (10724 95 Street NW), from a friend, a newspaper and a chef. Dickson and I agreed on this new-ish Thai and Laotian restaurant for a lunch meet-up last week so I was finally able to experience it firsthand.

With bars on the windows, I really didn’t feel welcome approaching the eatery. Next to a school, with a tiny parking lot shared with a handful of other businesses, the location left much to be desired. But walking into the space, I was immersed in a much different feeling. The interior was modern and elegant – red walls accented the bar at the rear of the restaurant; the inset ceiling, lined with bold red and black paint, brought an unexpected jolt of vibrancy to the mostly white dining area; and lastly, the delicate spotlights that shone on the periphery of the room created a subtle but classy mood.

Interior

The restaurant was less than half full when we walked in just after 12:30pm. We were asked if we had a reservation, and when we responded that we didn’t, were promptly seated anyway at a table along one wall. The place setting included a wine glass, which seemed unnecessarily fancy, but then again, so long as the drinking vessel is clean, I shouldn’t complain.

We took some time to peruse the menu, and despite being momentarily tempted to order the lunch special (which seemed the most economical way to sample their fare), I ended up with my benchmark dish of Pad Thai ($12.99). Dickson opted for the Tamarind Chicken ($11.99) and a side of coconut rice ($2.99/bowl).

I would gather that for most on a noon hour jaunt, time is of the essence. Of course, not choosing a “15 minute guaranteed express lunch” from Kelsey’s or the like means that I was, on some level, making a conscious choice to gamble with an unknown time factor. At the same time, as the restaurant was seated with half of its maximum capacity, Dickson and I expected some expediency with our meal.

It took a good thirty-five minutes to deliver our food, leaving us with about fifteen minutes to eat. I want to press that our waitress was great throughout our meal – attentive and polite to the point of pushing formal (presenting our bill with two hands and a bowed head made me a little uncomfortable), but she couldn’t alleviate the time stress we felt because of the slow kitchen.

As for the food – we thought it was average. The pad thai was more sweet than spicy, and the number of shrimp included were a paltry three – I would choose the same dish at Bua Thai or Syphay any day. Dickson’s tamarind chicken was all right, but with a flavour that was mildly sweet but not wholly distinct, neither of us would recommend it as a standout entrée.

Pad Thai

Tamarind Chicken

I may visit Viphalay again, perhaps for supper or for a weekend lunch date, but I surely won’t be back when an acute awareness of time will impede my enjoyment of the meal.

Viphalay
10724 95 Street NW
(780) 423-3213
Tuesday – Sunday, lunch 11am-2pm, dinner 5-9pm, closed Mondays