Category: restaurant reviews

All-American Hot Dogs: The Dawg Father

I happened to be in the Alberta Avenue area on Thursday for work, and having read Liane’s article about The Dawg Father (8654 118 Avenue), chose that as my lunch destination that day.

Knowing that the joint specialized in hot dogs, I was expecting The Dawg Father to be somewhat similar to Tubby Dog, which serves up unusual condiments on a carnival favourite. In actuality, The Dawg Father reveres traditional toppings like onions, sauerkraut, cheese and relish. When I asked the proprietor Tom Stefura if he would ever experiment with things like wasabi and peanut butter, he said it wasn’t his intention to waver from classic, All-American flavours (partial menu here).

Order counter

The interior of the restaurant reminded me of a cleaner, modified Chicago Deep Dish – meant not for lingering, but to quickly satisfy one’s hunger. There are three new, glass-topped tables to provide those who need a place to stay, but it seems The Dawg Father also does a mean take-out business.

Tom greeted me as soon as I walked in the door. I asked for his recommendation, and after finding out that I wasn’t a fan of spicy foods, he said that the Baltimore Dog ($7.50) would be my best bet – topped with fried onions, cheese, and bacon. All dogs are served with coleslaw, ‘Ruby fries’ and a pickle. He asked if a ten minute wait would be all right, as all meals are made fresh. I had time, but I had to wonder – if several large groups came in all at the same time, the restaurant may not be able to accommodate everyone in a timely fashion.

I wasn’t keeping track, but I’m pretty sure my order took less than ten minutes to reach my table. I’ve never really considered a hot dog as anything beyond a snack, but The Dawg Father made me reconsider this, as my plate was definitely a meal in itself. The dog was drenched with a generous topping of sauteed onions, crumbled bacon, cheddar cheese and (unfortunately) mustard. Thankfully, the onions and cheese managed to negate the sharpness of my least favourite condiment, and I appreciated the heartiness of the all-beef wiener. The bread was fresh (they use buns from Handy Bakery just a few doors down), which is always a nice touch. The fries were a cut above, and made the overall price of the hot dog easier to reconcile. The potatoes had been freshly prepared with an aromatic mixture of garlic, parsley and salt – I was beyond full by the end, but I couldn’t imagine turning in a half-eaten plate that had obviously been lovingly prepared.

Baltimore Dog with coleslaw and Ruby fries

Before I left, I asked Tom why he had chosen 118th Avenue to open his restaurant, and whether or not the reputation of the area had deterred him at all. He replied that the media helped perpetuate the negative image of Alberta Avenue, and “if people think this is bad, try living in Newark, New Jersey.”

The Dawg Father
8654 118 Avenue
(780) 477-7947
Tuesday-Saturday 11am-7pm, closed Sunday & Monday

Starch Overload: Happy Garden

Due to a dumpling craving, Dickson and I ended up at Happy Garden (6525 111 Street NW) for dinner instead of a pre-planned trip to Il Forno. He had heard from a coworker that their servings were quite generous, and after being unsatisfied with Western interpretations of dumplings at Brewster’s, convinced me to come along for the ride.

I remember reading a review of this off-the-beaten-track Chinese restaurant in the Journal last year, and was happy to hear that it hadn’t shut down, which was a possibility hinted at in the article. It took us long enough to find the place, after a few wrong turns and not having the slightest idea what we were looking for to begin with. We finally ended up at a tiny strip mall in the middle of Parkallen, with every storefront dark with the exception of the restaurant.

Wandering in, I spotted a sign near the door that requested patience from patrons – staff turnover meant the kitchen might still be on training wheels. That wasn’t a good sign – we had tickets to a show across the city, and time would be tight as it were. But in spite of my hesitations, we followed the waitress to a table in the back corner.

Happy Garden was surprisingly busy – for a restaurant that I hadn’t heard much about, it was nearly full, and provided the lively ambiance I have always associated with Chinese establishments. The decor was dated, with a few haphazard Chinese “artifacts” added to the interior as seeming afterthoughts – a lantern, a scroll. Twinkle lights hung from the ceiling – had they been on, I’m sure they would have given the space a touch of charm. The pink vinyl tablecloths were a bit off-putting – I know they meant to assist staff in the clean-up phase, but they were sticky and probably should have been replaced.

I let Dickson do the ordering, based on his friend’s recommendations: Pork Dumplings ($7 for 12), Mu Shu Pork ($9 for 6 “thin cakes”), and Steamed Buns ($7 for 10). I wasn’t expecting to find samosas and “Thai wings” on the menu, but as I was about to find out, Happy Garden specializes in plates meant to be shared.

Fortunately, it wasn’t long before our first course arrived – the Pork Dumplings were absolutely massive. Their comparison on the menu to perogies were spot on, though quite frankly, they were larger than any perogy I had ever come across before. Pan-fried to a crisp on the outside, the dough contained a flavourful concoction of meat. I managed to work my way through four before crying for mercy, but Dickson likely could have eaten more than the eight he finished.

Pork Dumplings

The Mu Shu Pork was next – warmed crepe-like wraps accompanied a plate of steaming stir-fried pork and vegetables. Assembling the dish was half the fun, which including drizzling hoisin sauce to taste. It was definitely my favourite of the three courses – the texture of the filling and the sweetness of the sauce had me at my first bite.

Mu Shu Pork

We received our Steamed Buns last. A mixture of pork and crab meat awaited us inside, as did quite a bit of oil that pooled along the bottom of the dough. If we hadn’t already gone through the plate of dumplings, I’m sure we would have been more receptive to the buns, but in the end, we felt as if we had exceeded our starch content for the week.

Steamed Buns

My introduction to Happy Garden was brief but positive – I hope to be able to linger (and order seconds of Mu Shu Pork) on future visits.

Happy Garden
6525 111 Street NW
(780) 435-7622

All About Appearances: Kai Asian Grill

After Courtney’s lukewarm review and hearing lacklustre comments from friends about Kai Asian Grill (100, 10909 Jasper Avenue), I was less than eager to pay them a visit. But on an evening when venturing outside was a welcome reprieve from a weekend of self-imposed house arrest, coupled with Mack’s need to scope out Kai as a potential venue for an event he was planning, we hopped on a bus to have dinner at Kai.

Interior

I’m not sure why the owners decided on a name change (signs boasted of “Tao” coming soon), but I doubt substituting another Asian-sounding monosyllable would have made a resounding difference with the patron reception of the restaurant. At any rate, the interior of the former Chili Hot Hot had been gutted and divided into a number of areas – a dining room, a small sushi bar, two elevated, semi-private dining areas, and finally, a gargantuan lounge, which is at least double the size of the dining room. We asked to be seated in the dining room (as is our custom when trying a new restaurant), but had we known of Kai’s lounge-forward stance, we would have made an exception to our rule. Shades of black and grey dominate the dining room, with looming statues reminding patrons of the restaurant’s Asian and East Asian slant. The most striking feature is the ceiling, however, with lights calling attention to the overhead red hue. I was happy that they decided to maintain the large windows looking out onto Jasper Avenue – the bustling intersection outside makes the restaurant seem that much more cosmopolitan, however coincidental. Everything looked great, polished and perfect, but upon closer inspection, it seems some financial shortcuts were taken. For example, the bamboo plants that lined the side were artificial, while the counters were marble-coated. As the overall renovations must have cost a fortune, I’m willing to cut Kai some slack.

I had previewed the menu online, so knew of Kai’s approach to fusion food – one very similar to OPM, and really, any other restaurant that strives to cater to as many people as possible out there (I’m looking at you Earls, Joeys, and Moxie’s). We were handed cocktail and wine lists, but other beverages such as beer and coffee were nowhere to be seen on the page. Mack would have appreciated this, as his Sapporo beer came in at a surprise $7.25, although he rightly could have confirmed the price prior to ordering it.

The one dish that caught my eye online, the Coconut-Crusted Tofu ($22), maintained my gaze in the restaurant, as I was hoping to satisfy my craving for tofu. Mack, on the other hand, zeroed in on the peculiarly categorized Kai Mini Burger Trio ($16) – we thought it sounded more like an appetizer than an entrée (and would likely encourage more spending if coded as the former). Always up for the house calamari ($9), this time dressed with salt and pepper, we ordered that to start as well.

Our appetizer was delivered quite promptly, dressed with green onions and accompanied by a chili and lime aioli. Dotted with black pepper, Mack liked the calamari well enough, while I was easily swayed by the fact that the battered morsels was fried to a fresh crisp.

Salt and Pepper Calamari

We had a little more time to admire the interior than we wanted to while we waited for our entrees, but the calamari tided us over somewhat. When Mack’s Burger Trio arrived, I couldn’t help but be drawn to the bright orange sweet potato fries – not mentioned in the menu description, we now understood why this had been classified as an entrée. While I don’t know how the burgers fit in with the “Asian fusion” mandate of the restaurant (besides the bamboo skewers used, heh), the sliders were great, particularly because of the type of bun used. The White-Castle-like soft bread cushioned and complimented the thin patty well.

Kai Mini Burger Trio

The size of my dish was deceiving at first glance, though as I began to dig through the rice and vegetables, I found that the bowl held more than met the eye. The Thai curry sauce used lovely, and balanced the heat with a hint of sweetness. The tofu, which had been lightly breaded in coconut, then deep fried, was unfortunately dry in the centre, with a texture that reminded me more of chicken than soy. It was an interesting take, and one I might try to recreate at home, but not again try at Kai.

Coconut Crusted Tofu

I had no complaints about our waitress – she did her best to find all of the answers we needed for our numerous and sundry questions, and as it seemed she was covering both the lounge and the dining room, did a bang up job ensuring all tables were cared for. Though my predilection for Kai steadily improved through my visit, it’s lack of real menu focus prevents me from fully embracing it. I would recommend it, but don’t expect fireworks.

Kai Asian Grill
100, 10909 Jasper Avenue
(780) 428-3336
Monday-Thursday 11am-midnight, Friday-Saturday 5pm-2am

Indian Meal Deal: Rasoi on 50th

I caught up with Bettina over dinner at Rasoi on 50th (4341 50 Street) last week, a restaurant near my house I suggested trying when she proposed that we have Indian cuisine.

There has been some confusion in the Edmonton dining scene recently with Indian restaurants with “Rasoi” in the name, as two opened up at around the same time this summer, both located in southside strip malls. Rasoi on 50th happens to reside in a space formerly occupied by a coffee shop, and for that reason is smaller and seemingly more demure, at least from the outset.

While I can’t remember exactly how the interior of Cappuccino Affair used to look, the palette of warm beige and brown seemed familiar. Café seating next to the order counter had been eliminated in favour of a buffet (offered only at lunch at the moment), so we were led to the mezzanine dining area at the rear of the restaurant. The flat screen televisions, while perhaps acceptable at the front take-out counter, were out of place and distracting where we were seated, particularly because the rest of the décor was cozy and conducive to a nice evening out.

Our waitress was a bit abrupt, not even allowing us to take off our coats before asking about our drink order, but her keenness could be excused for the fact that we were the first customers through the door that night. Service improved through our stay, save for the waitress not considering that our lengthy lingering at the end of our meal may have signalled our desire for the bill.

Not having to even consider the buffet was a blessing in disguise, as after my brush with the Origin India owner, I realized I may have been doing a disservice to Indian cuisine by always jumping to the buffet rush. Our server presented us with the option of a fast food-inspired “two can dine” special, which, priced at $24.99, was a bit of a steal. Comprised of naan, rice, raita, green salad, and two entrees of our choice (vegetarian and/or meat), it seemed like an economical way to sample what the restaurant had to offer. For my entrée, I chose the unavoidable Butter Chicken, while Bettina was a bit more adventurous with Lamb Curry. She was also intrigued by their Egg Pakoras ($6), so we added that onto our order as well.

We munched our way through complimentary papadam, and didn’t have to wait long before our appetizer arrived. Bettina was disappointed with them, as she had anticipated something more exciting and unusual than what we received – hard boiled eggs that had been battered then fried. I thought they were all right, though the outer shell didn’t maintain its ideal crispness.

Egg Pakoras

Plates cleared, our meal was delivered in expedient fashion. I was expecting more than five small pieces of chicken in my entrée, but thankfully, they were a tad more generous with Bettina’s lamb. I also should have made it a point to ask them what was contained in their rich sauce – it was unlike any butter chicken dressing I have ever had, almost as if they had tossed in a bottle of barbecue sauce or something else unorthodox into the mix. It was really tasty though, so perhaps it is a well-guarded secret ingredient. Bettina liked her lamb curry, though noted that it was nothing out of the ordinary. The green salad was unexciting (iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato, cucumber, carrot), though if anything, did provide a fresh respite from the dense meat entrees. Lastly, the naan was fresh and crisp, with the only downside being that there wasn’t more of it to go around.

Our “two can dine” meal

While not necessarily a destination restaurant, Rasoi on 50th is worth stopping by if you’re in the area, and looking for an a la carte Indian experience that won’t break the bank.

Rasoi on 50th
4341 50 Street NW
(780) 756-5600
Monday-Thursday 11am-9pm; Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm, Sunday 12-9pm

Stunning Interior: The Hat

May and I met up for a pre-Christmas dinner at The Hat (10251 Jasper Avenue NW), the newest incarnation of Edmonton’s beloved diner. As I never set foot in any of its predecessors, I can’t comment on how the interior has changed, but I will say that the décor floored me.

Bar

Ceiling

Pictures really don’t do The Hat justice, particularly because my camera is weak in dim settings. But between the dark wood bar that takes advantage of the long and narrow space (lined with a colorful liquor display and LCD television screens displaying the night’s sports offerings) and the absolutely gorgeous pressed-tin ceiling, the interior wowed me. The rear of the restaurant had a different feel than the front – better lit, with large tables to accommodate groups, those looking for a more restaurant setting could happily settle down there. All in all, the space was dressed for the after-work crowd, enticing for those looking for a stylish but comfortable spot for a drink.

The menu also reflected this, with a crowd-pleasing overtone, featuring share plates common for casual upscale eateries and updated pub favourites. Diner standbys have been eliminated, giving way to a multitude of burgers, including a $20 surf and turf version, coupling a beef patty with a lobster tail.

It turned out that May and I picked a great day of the week to visit, as all burgers were priced at $3 off on Tuesdays. I immediately went for the Canadian ($13.25), an 8oz. patty topped with cheddar, white cheddar, maple bacon, and “all the groceries”. May opted for something lighter that day, and ordered the Portobello Mushroom Burger ($12.25), served with red pepper cream cheese, fresh red peppers and spinach. I was glad that one side was included with the burger; it just feels wrong when fries are priced separately.

Service, particularly because it seemed a single waitress was serving the entire restaurant, was good. And though I’m not sure why we both expected the kitchen to be slow, before we knew it, our dishes appeared in front of us. The generous serving of crispy shoestring fries could barely stay atop the plate, while my burger waited patiently to be dressed with the provided condiments. The menu also didn’t lie about the fixings, as it was absolutely stacked. Though in my opinion, the groceries attacked my burger to the point where I could no longer taste the cheese and bacon, and the patty was a little too charred for my liking. May rated her burger average, but she did enjoy the dressing drizzled on her side salad – a nice roasted red pepper vinaigrette.

Canadian Burger

Portobello Mushroom Burger

Based on our inaugural visit, I’d return not to The Hat for the food, but to drink in the lovely atmosphere and its stunning interior.

The Hat
10251 Jasper Avenue NW
(780) 429-4471
Appetizers $4-15, Entrees $12.25-20, Desserts $4.25

Fast and Filling: Mucho Burrito

A day off from work became my errand day, and I was finally able to finish my Christmas shopping (too late in the year for me, particularly because I am the type to stockpile presents throughout the year). At any rate, the weekday freedom meant I could meet Mack for lunch, so we decided to take the time to try out Mucho Burrito (10124 109 Street NW), a relatively new addition to the 109th Street complex.

I was expecting a similar meal experience to the one I had at Taco del Mar a few months back, a franchised chain that started popping up all over the city in the last two years. On the outset, the two eateries didn’t seem to be too different – a long ordering counter took up half of the space, while basic metal-framed tables meant not for lingering filled up the rest of the area. Mucho Burrito was decidedly less kitschy décor-wise (no tiki-bar or neon signs to be had here), but the playful posters (one featuring an oversized burrito on a forklift) reminded me very much of Famoso’s early wall coverings. Their overhead LCD screens, though notable, were unfortunately out of focus as they cycled through in-house advertisements.

We joined the line – which didn’t let-up through our brief stay, even though it was after 1pm – and were greeted by indifferent but amazingly efficient staff. They had their assembly line roles down pat, and whisked us through the ordering process in minutes.

This new breed of taco stand separates itself from their fast food cousins by offering choice at every turn – from the white or whole-wheat tortilla, to brown or black beans, to chicken, beef, or vegetarian filling, to supplementary sauces and toppings, the price reflects the approach to a custom order. My small burrito, Burrito Pequeno, was priced at $6.99, while Mack’s namesake Mucho Burrito was $10.99 – we were definitely out of value menu territory.

Down the assembly line we went – I chose a white tortilla, brown beans, beef and cilantro to accompany the lime rice, cheese and salsa base. We each ended up with a perfectly wrapped burrito in an aluminium pizza pan, a practical alternative to plastic trays, as Mack’s bottle of pop was better restricted from rolling off onto the floor.

Aluminium tray alternative

We sat down at a table and dug in. The combination of all flavours together – the smoky chipotle sauce, the tang of the lime rice, the juicy, savoury shards of braised beef, and the freshness of the cilantro – really sold the burrito for me. Mack could barely get his mouth around his burrito (easily double the size of mine), but gave it a thumbs up as well – he was full for hours afterwards. Of course, for $11, his hunger should have definitely been addressed.

Mack takes a bite out of his burrito

Mucho Burrito

Burrito Pequeno

In all, Mucho Burrito provided a satisfying lunch, and a meal that was much better than one we had obtained at Taco del Mar. Ideal for take-out or a quick stop, while not inexpensive, Mucho Burrito was both fast and filling.

Mucho Burrito
10124 109 Street NW (2 more locations in Edmonton coming soon)
(780) 429-4220
Daily 11am-9pm

Short but Sweet: The Bison Restaurant & Lounge

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

A little over a month ago, I was in Banff, AB for CanUX 2008. I had a great time and learned a lot. One of the best parts about the event was that all expenses were included – registration, lodging, and meals. We ate our meals at the restaurant at The Banff Centre except dinner on the last day, which was not included. I decided to take advantage of that and stopped The Bison Restaurant & Lounge on my way out of town. Sharon had recommended it to me in case I had time to visit a local establishment.

The restaurant is located on the second floor of the building, with the Mountain Bistro General Store underneath. Much of the building was closed for renovations at the time, but fortunately the restaurant was still open. I climbed the wooden staircase and was warmly greeted and immediately seated in the nearly empty restaurant (there were a handful of people in the lounge).

My waiter was attentive during my short stay, but not overly so. He answered all of my questions, but mostly left me to scope out the coppered kitchen and surf on my iPod touch (there was open wireless nearby). I would describe the interior of the dining room as sophisticated, with dark wooden tables and chairs, wine glasses at every table, and funky dim lighting.

I looked through the menu, including the “local for locals” insert, and eventually decided upon one of the wood fired pizzas. I chose the Smoked Bison, Caramelized Onions, Edamame, and Fresh Mozzarella pizza for $17. I wasn’t overly hungry, but the waiter assured me that the pizza was a good size for one person. He was right.

I didn’t have to wait long for my pizza to arrive. It tasted just as good as it looked! I thought the smoked bison together with the fresh mozzarella was the best part. The caramelized onions seemed to disappear in comparison, and the firm edamame beans didn’t quite fit with the rest of the pizza though they tasted fine. I thoroughly enjoyed the dish.

I’d love to take Sharon to The Bison to try one of their more interesting dishes next time! I think she’d really like it. If you’re looking for something unique in Banff, give The Bison a try.

Bison Restaurant & Lounge
The Bison Courtyard 213
211 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 762-5550
Monday-Friday, 5pm-10pm, Saturday-Sunday, 10am-10pm

A Cold but Tasty Reception: Thai Valley Grill

Annie introduced me to Thai Valley Grill (149-4211 106 Street NW) on Friday night, a tiny eatery tucked right next to the Whitemud Crossing Library. Located near her school, she had been to the restaurant once, and was eager to see what else they had to offer.

I didn’t expect the establishment to be busy, but it was packed during our entire visit. To be fair, Thai Valley seats around forty patrons, but the majority of diners who entered had the air of regulars, a sign of a healthy business. The decor reminded me of a charming French bistro – nice tapestry curtains, forest green carpet and ceiling, and worn, slightly mismatched wooden furniture. All in all, a comfortable setting for the evening. My only qualm with our table was its proximity to the door – on that cold winter night, we were reminded of just how chilly it was outside every time new customers arrived. I felt even worse for the couple seated right next to the door, as they kept their coats on for their entire meal.

The menu had a sense of humour to it, rarely encountered in the Edmonton restaurant scene: “Our dishes can be tempered to your taste, mild, medium or hot, even Thai Style if you dare!!! Fire extinguishers are available and include milk, bananas and slices of cucumbers. Speedy delivery costs extra. If all else fails, we have an assortment of ice cream.” Both Annie and I decided on the Pad Thai ($12.95), Thai style stir fried rice stick noodles with shrimp, chicken, bean curd, green onion, bean sprouts, roasted peanuts and egg.

Annie told me that the kitchen had been slow during her last visit, so we were both surprised when our dishes were delivered fairly promptly. The lettuce and carved carrot garnish were nice touches, and made up for the use of plain white china (compared with some other Thai eateries in the city). Our plates came with a small vessel of dried pepper flakes for us to add to taste, but I was fine with the semi-sweet sauce that thoroughly coated the noodles. I appreciated the liberal quantity of green onions included, which provided a crunchy boost, but I wished for more tofu and larger shrimp. While the dish wasn’t as flavourful as Syphay or Bua Thai‘s version, it was pretty good as a whole.

Pad Thai

Annie opted for a sweet ending for the meal, and ordered the mango with sticky rice ($5.95). Garnished with whipped cream, mango syrup and a cherry, the dish was nicely presented on a square plate. For someone who doesn’t really enjoy mango, I have to say, the combination of the warm, chewy rice with the ripe fruit was actually quite tasty.

Mango with Sticky Rice

Thai Valley Grill provides a nice refuge from “mall food” for those at the nearby Southgate Shopping Centre, or a low-key, comfortable venue for a small party. But to be on the safe side, make sure to call ahead for reservations first.

Thai Valley Grill
149-4211 106 Street NW
(780) 413-9556
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2pm; Dinner: Sunday-Thursday 4-9pm, Friday-Saturday 4-10pm
Appetizers $4.95-13.95, Entrees $11.95-17.95, Dessert $3.95-5.95

Not my Slice of Pizza: Santo’s Pizza and Steak

Our work team was fortunate enough to be treated to lunch this week at Little Italy’s Santo’s Pizza & Steak (10821 95 Street NW). It seems Santo’s was the designated backup, as Sorrentino’s couldn’t accommodate our group of twelve. At any rate, I enjoy any opportunity to try a restaurant off-the-beaten path, particularly one I likely would have never stumbled upon on my own accord.

Just before noon, the lounge we passed by on our way to the dining room was busy serving a few patrons who definitely seemed to be regulars. The dining room itself was quite small; our party literally took up half of the space. A short while later, another large party was seated directly behind us. It turned out to be a rather unfortunate placement for the waitress – more than a few coats were knocked off chairs as a result, and required her to do quite a bit of maneuvering to get through the tight space between. She did an admirable job overall of catering to refill requests despite this inconvenience, particularly as she was the lone staff member on the floor.

The menu seemed to focus on pizzas and pastas, though to be fair, a number of sandwiches and entrees also occupied some real estate. The Meat Lovers pizza ($12.65) with beef, ham, pepperoni, salami and sausage ended up winning my order, mostly because I just had pasta for dinner the night prior.

Though not quick, I would give the kitchen credit for handling our meals in a fairly efficient manner. I would imagine the delay in the delivery of some dishes was handicapped more by the fact that there was just one waitress available.

For the record, the 12 inch pizza was big enough to provide me with lunch for an additional two days. However, as quality wins over quantity most times, I have to say I was disappointed with the product. There was a tad too much tomato base, resulting in a tangy taste that didn’t complement the salty slices of meat. The crust was also sub-par – it retained its crunch, but wasn’t anything special. Having munched my way through many a pizza, I think I like my crust in one of two ways – thin and chewy, a la Famoso, or just full-on greasy, as served at Pizza Hut. The varying medium ground just doesn’t appeal to me.

 

Meat Lovers Pizza

On a side note – while I didn’t get to try the cappuccino first hand, a workmate said it was the best she’d ever had. Perhaps that would be worth a return trip.

While a work lunch is a poor way to judge a restaurant, at least I know Santo’s doesn’t meet my pizza standard.

Santo’s Pizza & Steak
10821 95 Street NW
(780) 421-1507

Nothing Out of the Ordinary: Hoa An

There seem to be a never-ending stream of restaurants in Chinatown that arise out of nowhere, begging to be tried. Hoa An (9653 107 Avenue) was such a place, and I chose it for a weekday lunch destination.

It turned out Dickson had already been there, but didn’t know it until we were right in front of the restaurant. Next to the popular grocer Lucky 97, it seemed to blend in with the surroundings of the hub, with all traffic in the area seemingly drawn to the always bustling parking lot in front of the store.

At any rate, walking into the restaurant, we were immediately directed by someone to a table along one wall. Hoa An was moderately busy, with more than a handful of parties either already in the midst of their food, or waiting patiently for their orders to arrive. The overwhelmingly pink interior was an interesting color scheme, but overall, I couldn’t complain much about the well-kept dining area.

The menu, which included stir-fried dishes and a variety of noodle and vermicelli bowls, didn’t highlight anything out of the ordinary, though I likely wouldn’t have considered any dishes other than pho that afternoon anyway. I zeroed in on #35, with well-done flank ($7.35), while Dickson opted for the more interesting rare steak, well-done flank, brisket and tripe ($7.35).

In a lightning quick fashion similar to Pho Hoa and Pho Tau Bay, our orders were delivered after a short five minute wait. We both commented that the portion size seemed smaller than those served at other restaurants (notably, Pagolac), and that the broth wasn’t as hot as we would have liked. That said, I’m starting to think that trying to sway me from my current pho favourites would be next to impossible. Even though I would never be able to accurately identify, in a blind taste test, the restaurant origin of a bowl of pho, unless a serving knocks my socks off (in a good way), I doubt any new places I experiment with will replace my love of Pagolac and Hoang Long. The memories in this case of the times and meals I have had at those restaurants ultimately take precedent over the minute quality differences that may be noted in the food.

Pho with well-done flank

Pho with rare steak, well-done flank, brisket and tripe

So though Hoa An is reasonably priced and fast, I hesitate to say I’ll be back often. Hoang Long offers a closer stop from work, and the southside Pagolac a comfortably familiar setting.

Hoa An
9653 107 Avenue
(780) 425-6021