Category: restaurant reviews

Marathon Dinner: Melting Pot

Fondue, whether savoury or sweet, is definitely not something I grew up with. It’s been a novel concept that I’ve experimented with recently as a fun alternative to an entrée-based meal, but not something I’ve thoroughly explored.

That said, I was really curious to try Melting Pot, a US-based chain that opened its first Canadian franchise location in Edmonton back in March. Based on some of the comments on their Facebook group, many within and outside of the city were holding their breath in anticipation of the restaurant, and were disappointed it wasn’t opening sooner.

We met Bruce and Sarah at Melting Pot last Saturday. It’s not the best location, in a strip mall off Calgary Trail (next to Cora’s), in terms of public transit accessibility or ability to see it from the freeway. Our server later told us that most Melting Pot branches are similarly placed, off the beaten path and never in a standalone building.

The surroundings are immediately forgotten upon stepping foot inside the restaurant, however, accented by a modern fireplace, sleek lobby furnishings, and a glass cube wine case.

Wine case

As mentioned in the Journal review, the dining room is built like a labyrinth. While some seating areas are more open (like the one we were eventually led to), in a journey to locate the washroom, I wandered through several dim corridors and past booths tucked at an angle that promote intimacy like none I’ve seen before. And while I wouldn’t consider cheese fondue to be the most sensual dish, in the privacy of your unseen booth, I suppose it could be.

Our four-top was located in the lounge, with a full view of the bar, and ended up being a better place to be, noise-wise, than the adjacent dining room that housed several large groups. A single induction burner was set into the centre of the granite countertop, and thus could only accommodate one pot. It meant that save for ordering a salad, everyone in the party had to agree on the selections of savoury and sweet fondues.

Thankfully, the four of us were on the same page, and weren’t beset by allergies that would impact our options. We were told that Melting Pot had a feature menu that would change every six months. The current theme was “Pacific Islands”, highlighted in their Big Night Out four-course meal, which included a cheese fondue, a salad, a savoury fondue, and a dessert fondue. Prices ranged from $90 to $106 per couple, depending upon the inclusion of lobster tails. Our group chose the mid-range option dubbed Fondue Fusion ($98), though we could have substituted a fondue type off of the regular menu as well.

The Feng Shui cheese fondue was prepared tableside. Our server handily combined a generous pour of white wine (copious amounts of wine were a pattern that night), mirin, sake, Gruyère and horseradish and chive Havarti and stirred it until it formed a creamy consistency. We were offered a selection of dippers, including bread, apples, and vegetables. The alcohol content was more apparent on the vegetables (which all needed to be blanched) and bread, so the clear favourite dipper were the apples, with their sweetness cutting through the tang of the alcohol.

Feng Shui Cheese Fondue

The feature salad was lettuce wraps with cucumber, carrots, bean sprouts, mint and almonds with a spicy orange-ginger dressing. Though it was a refreshing combination following the dense, heavy cheese course, we agreed it was probably an unnecessary filler.

Lettuce Wraps

The main course was a sight to see, a jumble of sectional plates, brightly-coloured sauces, cutlery and billowing smoke from our fondue pot. We had chosen the Coq au Vin, which again, was prepared tableside, and featured a hearty splash of burgundy wine, fresh herbs, mushrooms and garlic (at this point, Mack remarked at how this was essentially a version of hot pot). As the mixture heated up, our server noted rough cooking times for our various proteins (lobster tail, sesame crusted teriyaki sirloin, citrus infused pork tenderloin, sushi-grade ahi tuna, garlic chili chicken breast, kiwi lime shrimp) and identified the seven accompanying sauces we had at our disposal. No doubt about it, the servers at the Melting Pot had a more demanding job than servers at other casual upscale chains.

Coq au Vin Fondue

It was definitely a fun process, cooking up the various items and experimenting with different sauce combinations. The cream cheese-based green goddess sauce was a big hit with Bruce and Mack, while I was partial to the yogurt-based curry sauce. Mack, surprisingly, liked the ahi tuna the most, and I really enjoyed the dumplings, but what amazed me the most was how forgiving all of the items were in the event of overcooking. Between the prep of the proteins and the sauces, I could see how Melting Pot can justify their prices – many are willing to pay for the convenience and hassle-free experience they provide.

Cooking with wine

Sarah and I took care of the dessert fondue selection, though it was actually a really difficult choice (oreo? amaretto?). We ended up with the Ying & Yang, a basic mix of white and dark chocolate.

Ying & Yang Chocolate Fondue

Between moments of intense enjoyment (featuring strawberries, bananas, pineapple, cheesecake, marshmallows, pound cake and most of all the brownies), we all agreed that this was the best course of all. The chocolate was smooth and decadent, and not overwhelmingly sweet. It was unanimous that this fondue alone was worth returning for, and could make Melting Pot Edmonton’s best dessert destination.

The dessert spread

By the time we licked the chocolate bowl clean, four hours had passed. No, that isn’t a typo – four hours had passed. Of course, we were doing our share of conversing during dinner, which made for a great evening (and the pacing meant we were comfortably and not uncomfortably full), but we learned that choosing the Big Night Out meant committing several hours of time to the restaurant. Though some patrons may visit for single courses, we figured the majority of their business was the four course bonanza, and wondered how busy it would be on most weeknights. Regardless, I would highly recommend the dessert fondue at the Melting Pot, and the restaurant itself for a unique dinner experience.

Melting Pot
#117, 2920 Calgary Trail
780-465-4DIP (4347)
Monday-Thursday 4:30-10pm, Friday-Saturday 4-11pm, Sunday 4-10pm

Steakhouse Elegance: Bistecca

Four months ago, my friend Janice relocated to Toronto. She came back to visit last week, and, craving some good ol’ Alberta Beef, asked for a steakhouse recommendation for our gathering. As the group had yet to try Bistecca, the newest addition to the Sorrentino’s family, it seemed like a good choice.

We met there on Wednesday night. It was a quiet evening in the restaurant, with only half a dozen tables occupied over our entire stay. I was the first of our party to arrive, which gave me some time to admire the décor and soak up the ambiance. The black/white/red colour palate reminded me of Caffe Sorrentino interiors, but with the addition of carpet, plush banquets and high-mounted mirrors, the space had a modern sophistication a cut above its coffee house cousins. The floor-to-ceiling windows also helped dispel the myth that steakhouses must be cavernous and dimly lit. I really appreciated the interior, and had high hopes for the food.

Interior

The menu provided better range than a typical steakhouse as well, with Italian-inspired dishes such as panzanella and seafood fritters, which would satisfy even those not wishing to partake in heavier entrees. Annie ended up going that route, ordering a risotto cake and bison Carpaccio, while the rest of us chose dishes from the steak menu (most which are accompanied with the day’s potato and vegetable). It is worth noting that Bistecca sources some of their meat from local farms – Spring Creek Ranch and Crystal Creek – and prices were more reasonable than I expected, ranging from $26 for a duo of flank and flat iron steaks to $85 for a 32 ounce Porterhouse for two.

Parmigiano-Reggiano risotto cake with shaved smoked duck, Morello cherry, berry peppercorn oil

While none of us were floored by our selections, most of us enjoyed our meals. My order of braised Spring Creek Ranch short ribs ($28) was pretty generous, fully de-boned, and necessarily tender. The fat-to-meat ratio was also less than I’ve usually encountered, without significant detriment to flavour. I didn’t take to the polenta cake underneath, however – stringy and tasteless, I could have done without it.

Short ribs

Beef tenderloin (6 ounces, $32)

Marinated steak duo (flank and flat iron steaks, $26)

The only really egregious error that occurred that night was with one companion’s “Bistecca” (a 14 ounce rib-eye, $37), which had been prepared medium-well instead of the requested rare. The server apologized for the error, and had a replacement steak prepared promptly.

The “Bistecca”

Service wavered a bit, as our waiter had a tendency to disappear when we needed him most (such as informing him about the overcooked dish). Still, our experience was mostly positive, and as a result, I wouldn’t mind returning to Bistecca in the future if I had a craving for steak served in an elegant but comfortable dining room.

Bistecca
2345 111 Street
(780) 439-7335
Monday-Thursday 3-10pm, Friday-Saturday 3-11pm, Sunday 4-9pm

The 2010 PMA International Winemaker’s Dinner at Madison’s Grill

Tuesday was a funny day. One minute, I was mopping up the lake that had overtaken our office bathroom (there is something to be said about reliable plumbing), the next, I was at a posh food and wine event at the always elegant Madison’s Grill.

I can’t express how fortunate Mack and I were to be the recipients of an extremely generous gift – two tickets to the Peter Mielzynski Agencies (PMA) International Winemaker’s dinner, the gateway to an evening of glorious food, liberally poured spirits and the company of some of the most renowned winemakers in the world. At $160 a ticket, it was out of our price range, but Monique and Patrick, who we had met at the Farmers’ Market Dinner at the same venue a few months back, were unable to attend, and asked us if we could go in their place. We accepted, and thanked them profusely.

One of several glasses of wine that night

While Mack and I enjoy wine, we admittedly aren’t very knowledgeable about it – growing regions, grape varieties, aging processes – all of it forms a murky haze for us. And though one night does not cure all, to have the opportunity to be exposed to those whose enthusiasm and passion for wine exuded through their pores was intoxicating (or was that the wine?).

A sea of glasses

We arrived at the restaurant just after 6:00, greeted by floating trays of hors d’ouvres and the offer of a sweet grass martini made with Calvados (apple brandy). Not long after, Chef Blair Lebsack spotted us in the crowd and came to greet us personally – his ability to make everyone feel welcome is something that elevates him in the industry, in my opinion.

Eventually, we found ourselves at a table where the common denominator was an interest in wine. PMA, which put together the dinner (we found out later that PMA represents some of the top wine labels in the world), ensured that one of the seven wine and spirit makers present were seated at each of the seven tables. Our table was fortunate to dine with the affable Craig McDonald, who works at the Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery in Niagara, and is considered one of the best winemakers in Canada.

Whites

The Farmers’ Market Dinner had exposed us to the concept of a chef’s introduction of a dish, and how the preamble about the ingredients and processes undertaken to create the final result enriches the meal. An additional layer was added to the PMA dinner, as the winemaker was given the microphone first, to introduce their company and products. Not only was it interesting to hear the stories behind some of the spirits, I was also amazed by the history and generations-old expertise in the room. Lamberto Frescobaldi’s family, for example, has been in the winemaking business for seven hundred years in Tuscany.

Reds

Blair then took the floor before cutlery was raised, and explained why the kitchen thought the dish in front of us would pair well with the wine or spirit we were drinking. Halfway through the dinner, Mack remarked, “I never really appreciated pairings until now.” I felt the same way.

Innis & Gunn beer

The amuse bouche of pickled beet and carrot terrine was meant to refresh our palate after the heavier scallop, tuna tartare and foie gras hors d’ouvres. It was exactly that, a pop of acidity that complemented the sweet and bubbly Pongracz Cap Classique from South Africa.

Pickled beet and carrot terrine with dill salsa verde

The first course was Mack’s favourite – an unassuming combination of steamed PEI mussels with braised pork belly. He thought the pairing, with a Wayne Gretzky Estate Series Chardonnay, was a dream, and loved the textural play of the mussels and the meltingly tender pork.

Steamed PEI mussels and braised pork belly

The next course was my favourite – an upside down smoked duck and gouda tart. As soon as the plate was put down in front of me, I was in sensory overload, under the spell of the fragrant aroma. The duck breast was perfectly cooked, fatty and toothsome, while peach preserves offset the richness of the buttery tart. I am normally not a fan of beer, but I couldn’t help but enjoy the pairing with an Innis & Gunn beer, which played off the smokiness well.

Upside down smoked duck and gouda tart

The nicoise salad with seared ahi tuna served as a good bridge to the denser courses that followed. The beans deserve a special mention, still crisp and light.

Nicoise salad

The fourth course of thyme rubbed Nouveau Beef petite tender was unforgettable. With truffle appearing in more mainstream restaurants, sometimes unnecessarily, this dish reminded me why it is such a glorious ingredient to begin with – creamy and fragrant, both Mack and I wanted to bathe in the white truffle hollandaise. This dish also exemplifies Blair’s exquisite attention to detail – as the beef was paired with a Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills Pinot Noir from Oregon, he made sure that the accompanying wild mushrooms (and white truffle) were also sourced from that state.

Thyme rubbed Nouveau Beef petite tender

The final main, paired with a bold and full-bodied Collazzi Toscana from Italy, was Blair’s clever homage to rustic, “meat and potatoes” Italian food. Instead of doing a traditional mashed or boiled potatoes, however, the plate featured an extravagant potato-lobster lasagne, with the starchy spud layers standing in for pasta.

Oven roasted Pilatus Farms bison tenderloin

Dessert (accompanied by our eighth drink that night, a Kunde Reserve Century Vines Zinfandel) was a sinfully rich chocolate-almond silk cake, tempered somewhat with a wild berry compote. Needless to say, I was happy we were offered coffee to end the night, the caffeine helping somewhat to gather my bearings.

Chocolate-almond silk cake

At the end of the “epic meal” (Mack’s words), the kitchen staff were applauded with a much-deserved standing ovation. From start to finish, it was an incredible dinner, and an evening we won’t soon forget. We are indebted to Monique and Patrick for this experience.

Good Eats in Banff: The Banff Centre, Saltlik, Evelyn’s and The Bison

We were fortunate to have the opportunity to spend last weekend in Banff, the result of an impromptu request for Mack to speak at the Canadian Arts Summit. Hosted at the beautiful Banff Centre this year, it was easy to see how rejuvenating the location itself could be for the conference delegates.

The Banff Centre

While making our way to the Professional Development Centre, we stumbled upon two deer. Though I shouldn’t be surprised that wildlife in the area no longer flinch at the sign of humans, we were still amazed at their nonchalance in spite of our close proximity.

 

On Saturday evening, we joined Ken and his wife Amy at the Dining Room in Donald Cameron Hall, a gorgeous space lined with windows that allowed for a spectacular view. Being that the event was a gathering of arts and culture administrators and artists, we even spotted a Canadian celebrity – Paul Gross of Due South fame.

The banquet dinner was a little better than most large events I’ve attended, though to be fair, this function only saw about 6o or so guests served. My favourite part of the meal was hands down the sweet potato crisps atop the sablefish main – an ingenious idea, executed perfectly!

Spinach salad with pomegranate dressing

Sablefish with sweet potato crisps and vegetables

Raspberry crème brulee and berries

After the meal, we joined Ken and Amy at Saltlik for a drink and in Ken’s opinion, the world’s best calamari. With such hype and high expectations, Mack and I were sure the wok-fired calamari wouldn’t live up to it all, but it did. Simply prepared, with a touch-light batter, tossed with sea salt, pepper, poblanos and charred serranos, they were surprisingly addictive.

Wok-fired calamari from Saltlik

The next morning, while Mack was at the conference, I trekked the roadside path to downtown Banff, about a half hour walk. Though I passed a few people on the way down, I mostly had the route to myself, not a sound to be heard save for the whistle of the wind through the trees.

The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel in the distance

I took a break at Evelyn’s Again, one of the three incarnations of the popular Evelyn’s Coffee Bar in town (it looks like another is in the works on Banff Avenue). While the coffee ($1.75 for a small) was nothing to complain about, the cookie ($2.50) was as hard as a rock – I was left wondering how long it had been sitting in the display case.

Coffee and (never again) cookie at Evelyn’s Again

After some satisfying time with a book, I did some window shopping. I passed by the cutest burger car, and a potential spot for lunch on a future visit – Shakes, a cafe that serves Bubble Tea, Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs and Vietnamese subs – what versatility!

The Eddie burger Bug

Before departing Banff, Mack met up with me for lunch at The Bison, as I had been eager to try some of their more casual fare in the lounge. It was nearly a full house downstairs, and as a result, took the staff several minutes before acknowledging our presence. Our eventual server apologized for the wait, and after that, our experience was a smooth ride.

Even though the cheese and charcuterie board was incredibly tempting, we decided to split two hot entrees, with the hopes they would warm me up from my time outside. The bison chili ($9.95) was smaller than we anticipated, but great all the same – the meat had been finely ground and nicely seasoned, and even without intense heat, had great flavour. I only wished it had been served to us a touch warmer.

Bison chili with Sylvan Star cayenne gouda (the bread ‘n’ butter was mighty tasty too)

The baked mini potato skins, with a slice of venison pepperoni, Sylvan Star cayenne gouda and creme fraiche, were wonderful. Satisfyingly crispy on the outside, but perfectly cooked on the inside, the combination of the potato, meat and melted cheese was incredibly comforting, and was exactly what I needed at that moment.

Baked mini potato skins

Based on our other experience, I’d have to say I prefer the casual side of The Bison, if not only because I prefer the lounge menu and its casual atmosphere.

Thanks again for a great weekend, Banff – I’ll be back soon!

Saltlik
221 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 762-2467

Evelyn’s Again (2 other locations)
119 Banff Avenue, Banff, AB
(403) 760-2907

The Bison
208 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 762-5550

Montreal Smoked Heaven: Myhre’s Deli

On Friday, Mack was asked by fellow prominent Edmonton Next Gen-er Ken Bautista to join him on a social media panel at the Canadian Arts Summit, being held this year at The Banff Centre. With accommodations and travel taken care of, and no plans tying him to Edmonton for the weekend, how could he say no? I jumped right on board, eager for the opportunity to get away, and we were off.

We left on Saturday afternoon, and planned to stop somewhere in Calgary for lunch. The BlackBerry came in handy to look up hours of operation, and after some site surfing, we chose Myhre’s Deli (formerly The Palace of Eats), situated in the Beltline District. Galaxie Diner next door (operated by the same folks) is one of our favourite diners in Calgary, with their heaping portions, lively atmosphere and open kitchen. While waiting in line for a seat at Galaxie, we had some time to peer in the windows of the deli, which specialized in Montreal smoked meat sandwiches. It looked like something we had to come back to try eventually.

Myhre’s Deli

Myhre’s Deli is a small but warm restaurant, lined with comfortable, unpretentious wooden furniture, a retro-inspired wall menu, and furnished with an antique cash register. It was empty save for one table when we arrived, and without a soundtrack overhead, was a tad too quiet for my taste – almost completely opposite of our experience at Galaxie Diner.

In any case, the service was quick – we were presented with our order of 6 oz. regular ($10) and 8 oz. full ($12) Montreal smoked meat sandwiches nearly right away, slathered with our choice of a half dozen mustards. Contained in the same basket were tiny paper cups of lightly-dressed coleslaw and BBQ chips – it made for a nice presentation.

Our order

When we picked up the sandwich half, we found it to be absolutely stacked with sliced meat (from Quebec Smoked Meats). It was warm and so juicy that a single bite resulted in a cascade of moisture. The house blend mustard had quite an unexpected kick to it, but the refreshing coleslaw helped to calm down my palate. My only issue with the sandwich was the pick-out-of-your-teeth softness of the bread, though Mack thought that was chosen specifically to contrast the chewy texture of the meat.

A regular sandwich

With fast, efficient service and tasty sandwiches, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Myhre’s Deli. I just hope they crank up the music next time!

Myhre’s Deli
1411 11th St. SW, Calgary, AB
(403) 244-6602
Open daily 11am-4pm

For the Love of Sandwiches: Wild Flour Bakery and Valbella Gourmet Foods

Our brief escape to the Rockies last October also involved less extravagant meals than The Bison. First up: Wild Flour Bakery, a casual café after my own heart – bright and cheery, and filled with the alluring aroma of fresh bread, it looked great at first glance. Mack had a not-so-positive experience there in the past, but was eager to see if they could make amends this time.

Their lunch menu consisted primarily of sandwiches, served on fresh house-made bread. Mack’s choice of the aged cheddar sandwich was unimpressive – he remarked that he loved the cheese and the bread, but he was expecting more from the combination. And though I enjoyed my sandwich, I thought the melted Swiss overwhelmed the delicate Valebella prosciutto.

Aged Cheddar Sandwich

 Swiss and Prosciutto Sandwich

We fared better with our choice of hot beverages. My London Fog (something I don’t have often, but the Earl Grey-milk mixture sounded good on a chilly afternoon) was good, and Mack’s Mexican hot chocolate was appropriately spiced.

Latte art!

Something we didn’t get a chance to order was dessert (though the chocolate torte looked mighty tempting) – so perhaps our next visit will concentrate only on sweets.

On the way back to Edmonton, we stopped in Canmore for a bite to eat at Valbella Gourmet Foods. I am familiar with them primarily through their bacon and sausages sold through Sunterra, but was curious to see their whole range of products.

The deli counter at Valbella

If we only had a cooler, I would have definitely stocked up

As for the small cafe that served only a handful of items, it was a revolving door of customers. They seemed to have their share of regulars from nearby construction or trades sites, very similar to the usual lunchtime crowd at The Italian Bakery or Handy Bakery. So – we ordered what everyone else ordered – the special that featured a few different types of meat.

Sandwich counter

While I typically prefer my sandwiches toasted or warmed in some way, the fresh bread, still crisp, made up for this somewhat. And the assortment of meat was a good opportunity to try a bit of everything.

Valbella special sandwich

If you’re passing through Canmore (with a cooler!) be sure to stop by for some top-quality meats. While the sandwich was good – the meat case is where it’s at.

Wild Flour Bakery
211 Bear Street, Banff, AB
(403) 760-5074
Open everyday from 8am-5pm

Valbella Gourmet Foods
104 Elk Run Boulevard, Canmore, AB
(403) 678-4109
Monday-Friday 8am-6pm, Saturday 9am-5pm, closed Sundays

Upscale Comfort: The Bison

While I start out with good intentions to post about eating experiences soon after they happen, sometimes I fail. Our weekend getaway to the mountains last October was one such instance. So – mostly to help maintain my own food memory, here are a few recaps of what we ate.

Ever since my introduction to The Bison by way of Andree’s post, I have been intrigued about their sustainable approach to food. When Mack asked me for restaurant recommendations for his trip to Banff two years ago, the Bison was at the top of my list. His enjoyable visit further heightened my desire to experience it myself.

We arrived a little early for our 7:30pm reservation, and with our table not yet ready, decided to relax with some wine in the lounge downstairs. It turned out we just missed their happy hour promotion on wine (40% off bottles, from 4-7pm), but we did think it was neat that patrons were allowed to bring the discounted bottle purchased in the lounge with them into the formal dining room upstairs.

Wine while waiting

I was surprised to see that the lounge (which has been open since February 2009) had a different menu than the dining room. With savoury cheese fondues and cheese and charcuterie plates, we had to resist the temptation to simply stay on in the lounge. More than variety though, the more casual lounge fare also enables the chef to exhibit his versatility in the kitchen – for example, whole pigs are purchased and used at The Bison, and all charcuterie served is house-made.

View from the bar

We eventually made our way upstairs, into a dimly-lit room that was darkened further as our evening progressed. I loved many things about the space, including the polished concrete floor and the warm furniture, while the open kitchen was Mack’s favourite element. However, as all of the servers notably wore denim, I wasn’t sure what the intended atmosphere was – the casual dress seemed to clash with the décor.

Tone confusion notwithstanding, everything else was great. I’ve never seen a list of suppliers as detailed, three pages with a paragraph devoted to each of the local farms who provide The Bison with their produce and proteins. Reading about the farmers really helps the diner connect with the restaurant in a larger context, and recognize all of the people involved in bringing the meal to the table.

Being a sucker for French onion soup meant I wouldn’t consider anything else as an appetizer once I saw the restaurant’s bison version on the menu. Mack’s fondness of carnival food was appeased with Bison’s gourmet corn dogs, made with lamb. For my entrée, I continued the theme of ordering namesake dishes and selected the caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame and fresh mozzarella pizza (which is what Mack ordered on his previous visit), and Mack decided on beef.

Needless to say, Mack loved his appetizer. If I had wanted more than a bite of the tender lamb lightly battered just so, I’m sure I would have had to pry it out of his hands. As for my French onion soup, I think it should have been listed with a warning sign next to it – the huge serving was so rich that I struggled to finish it, to the point where I barely touched my entrée.

Lamb corn dogs!

Bison onion soup

Mack’s steak was perfectly cooked, served with a generous amount of goat cheese, but we both wondered at the use of asparagus out of season. The pizza was also great – I loved the novelty of edamame, and the salty bite of the cured bison.

Mack’s steak (for the life of us, we can’t remember what cut)

Caramelized onion, smoked bison, edamame, fresh mozzarella pizza

Service was good – we were never left wanting for anything, and felt well taken care of in the hands of our competent server. After our experience, a stop at The Bison (in particular, the lounge!) will be a necessity the next time we visit Banff.

The Bison
208 Bear Street
(403) 762-5550

Mayfield Dinner Theatre: “Dial ‘M’ for Murder”

For Christmas last year, Mack, Thom and I gave Grandma Male a ticket to an upcoming show at the Mayfield Dinner Theatre. None of us had been before, but with our collective love of theatre and food, we thought it would be something fun to experience together for the first time.

Mayfield Dinner Theatre

The show we agreed on was Dial ‘M’ for Murder, a play made famous by Alfred Hitchcock, that happened to star two of my favourite Teatro la Quindicina actors – Jeff Haslam and Mark Meer. Tickets ranged from $55.99 to $79.99, which seemed pricey to me at the outset, but factoring in the convenience of dinner and entertainment in the same venue took the edge off somewhat. As I hadn’t been to the theatre before, I didn’t have any idea what constituted a good seat. I relied extensively on the opinion of the ticket agent, and thankfully, she steered us to a pretty good seat.

Our view of the stage, from a raised booth

When I purchased the tickets, I was told that the buffet dinner would be served from 6-8pm. We arrived around 6:30 to an already bustling venue. Looking around the room (and seeing the ads for retirement communities, mobility aids, and dentures in the playbill) it was evident that the crowd skewed older – Mack commented that the Mayfield might consider further marketing initiatives to attract a more diverse audience.

After depositing our coats and bags at our comfortable booth angled just right of the stage, we headed to the separate buffet room, connected to the theatre via a short hallway. Nearly three dozen cold starters and hot entrees awaited us, in addition to the usual assortment of cakes, squares and fruit at the dessert bar. We joined the line-up, eager to fill up our first of several plates.

Like most buffets, the food was hit and miss. Recommended dishes included the smoked Alberta whitefish, the roasted chicken in cream sauce and sautéed beef tenderloin and shitake mushrooms. To avoid: sushi, the prime rib (served cold), and the flavourless manicotti.

My plate

We seemed to fare better on dessert as a whole, each of us enjoying our respective choice of sweets. Mack especially liked the carrot cake, and my black forest torte was rich, but thankfully restrained in terms of sugar content.

Mack and Thom hit up the dessert bar

Our early arrival ensured we had plenty of time to enjoy our food, without feeling rushed. When they announced that the buffet would be closing in fifteen minutes we had already had our fair share. Although the food was self-serve, a server did approach our table to ask if we wanted any drinks other than water and coffee. Also, roving staff were great at promptly picking up empty dishes and refilling glasses – even though it was our first time, it was clear the Mayfield was a well-oiled machine.

As for the other half of the evening, I was a bit disappointed with the show, which follows a jealous husband as he blackmails an old college classmate into killing his wife. While I’ve never seen the Hitchcock version, I expected a lot more from this production and from the actors. I thought the use of ominous music was unnecessary and overdone, and cheapened the on-stage tension tangible in some scenes. Also, while Jeff Haslam (playing the scheming husband Tony Wendice) was somewhat successful at walking the fine line between drama and comedy, John Wright (in the role of Inspector Hubbard) was less so, and to me, upended the serious tone of the play. More than anything, I found myself unable (or unwilling) to sympathize with any of the characters, so in the end, the show was a lost cause for me.

With this particular show, and the at par meal, Mack and I both agreed that we didn’t see the value of our $69.99 ticket. Besides the convenience of a one-stop dinner and show, the alternatives that we could think of (dinner at Origin India or Packrat Louie and show at the Varscona or Catalyst Theatres) would be similar in price, but almost guaranteed to be of better quality. While I wouldn’t rule out a visit in the future, the sway of the production would have to be pretty great to get me through the door again.

Of course, with any night out, the company plays a factor. And on that night at least, we found some solace at our table.

Grandma Male and Thom

Mack and me

Mayfield Dinner Theatre (at the Mayfield Inn & Suites)
16615 109 Avenue
Ticket office: (780) 483-4051
Dial ‘M’ for Murder runs until April 11, 2010

Chinatown Resurgence: Samurai Bistro

I can usually find a pretty good excuse to try out new restaurants. On Monday, that excuse was the Mayor’s Celebration of the Arts. We’ve been attending the annual arts awards and recognition evening for three years (sadly, there was no on-stage closing dance number this time), and needed to have a pre-show meal. Samurai Bistro, open just two weeks, fit the bill perfectly.

I remember visiting Chinatown practically every weekend when I was younger, a stop for Asian groceries a necessary errand. At the time, the empty storefronts were fewer, and the traffic was heavier – mainstream grocery stores at the time didn’t carry as diverse an aisle of ethnic products, and T & T Supermarket didn’t exist. Even though Samurai Bistro and Basil Leaf make up what I would consider the western edge of Chinatown, it’s still nice to see some new development and revamped buildings anywhere in Chinatown.

Samurai Bistro is a tiny 30-seater restaurant, focusing on ramen and noodle bowls. The staff, who were friendly and attentive, did say that their dozen-item menu would be expanded in the next week, and would include daily seafood features. They also seemed sincere in their request for feedback after our meal, stating that they were a new business looking for any ways they could improve – it’s not something I’ve experienced a lot of, and though I didn’t have anything constructive to say, was a welcome inquiry.

The long and narrow restaurant was equipped with a refreshing open kitchen, lined with seats so patrons have the option of watching their food be prepared. I’m sure if the restaurant was packed, it would create quite the lively atmosphere. I loved the granite tables and the high-backed chairs, while Mack found the mounted wall “fireplace” to be particularly amusing. I thought the flat screen televisions, tuned to Food Network and ESPN, were two signs that we were in the right place.

Samurai Bistro interior

We underestimated our appetites that night, and opted to order the gyoza (7 for $7) to start. For our mains, I decided on the chicken and spicy herb ($9) bowl, and Mack chose the shrimp, scallop and seafood ($11) bowl. The restaurant had run out of ramen (brought in from Vancouver), so udon was our only option.

Order by photo!

The gyoza were fantastic – crispy and light on the outside, they were filled with just the right amount of pork and crispy cabbage. Definitely a keeper.

Gyoza, beautifully presented

As for our udon bowls, they were never-ending vessels, and ultimately defeated both of us. What first struck both of us was their generosity with seafood – Mack’s was filled to the brim with plump shrimp, scallops and calamari rings, in addition to crab legs. My accompanying chicken wasgood (the spicy coating making the difference), but seafood was definitely the winner here. The broth was all right, but my frequent pho ventures left me wanting for more flavour depth, which I realize is an unfair comparison.

Shrimp, Scallop and Seafood Bowl

 Chicken and Spicy Herb Bowl

Mack, a self-described “unstoppable crab-eating force”

With their responsive service and generous portions, I wouldn’t hesitate to return in the future. I hope others do the same, and perhaps in the process, help Chinatown regain some of its former glory.

Samurai Bistro
10632 100 Street
(780) 756-0834
Monday-Wednesday 11am-9pm, Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-11pm, Sunday 11am-6pm

Relaxed but Refined: Madison’s Grill

Did somebody say poutine?

That’s what I thought to myself when I saw the lunch menu being offered by Madison’s Grill during Downtown Dining Week. While I don’t normally have enough time to head into the core for a weekday lunch, a combination of some accrued overtime and sheer desire to try Chef Blair Lebsack’s upscale take on poutine drove me to make a reservation.

Though the restaurant was nearly empty when Mack and I arrived, it quickly filled up with diners from nearby office towers, many who seemed eager to partake in the special pre-fixe deals before us. In the elegant dining room, seated at the table clothed in white, the polished hardwood gleaming in the late morning sunlight, it was easy to just relax. And while I do enjoy the quick-serve options of my usual Chinatown lunches, the refined setting provided a nice change of pace.

I knew I had my heart set on the braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine ($15) before I even entered the restaurant, but that’s not to say that the regular lunch menu did not have its own allure. From the Sylvan Star grilled cheese sandwich ($15) to the Irving’s pulled Berkshire pork sandwich ($16) and the grilled scallop and prawn risotto ($19), it was clear to both of us that this wouldn’t be our last daytime visit to Madison’s. Mack had to fight the urge to order a second helping of poutine, but eventually decided upon the prawn orzo ($15).

Before our food arrived, Blair was nice enough to chat with us for a bit. When I said I was surprised to find Sylvan Star cheese curds on the menu, he replied that the award-winning company only makes them a few times a year. For the occasion of Downtown Dining Week, Madison’s put in an order for 10 kg of curds! He also noted that the sauce Robert “gravy” was a reference not only to the French brown mustard sauce, but also to his Chef de Cuisine, Robert.

Our food was promptly delivered, and yes, I am happy to say that the poutine lived up to my high expectations. The squeaky cheese was divine, stringing errant fries together under a delicious gravy bath. And what of the short ribs? Off the bone came the meat, with just the right proportion of luxurious fat to enhance the tender richness of every bite.

Braised Spring Creek Ranch short rib poutine

Mack was equally enthralled with his prawn orzo (though he did slightly regret not ordering the poutine after a small taste). He thought the pasta had been cooked perfectly, and liked the combination of the prawn cream sauce and warm prawn salsa.

Prawn orzo

We were satisfied with our mains, and so declined the offer of a dessert menu from our server. Little did we know, Blair had a sweet surprise in store for us anyway, and brought over a complimentary trio of truffles. Beautifully plated, my favourite was the almond-coated round, with the flavour and texture of the toasted nuts pairing well with the dark chocolate. Mack preferred the orange-flavoured truffle.

Trio of truffles

Our lunch at Madison’s Grill was a breath of fresh air, and left us both relaxed and ready to return to work. It’s a safe bet we will be back soon.

Madison’s Grill (in the Union Bank Inn)
10053 Jasper Avenue
(780) 401-2222