Calgary Steak-Out: Ox & Angela

In addition to commemorating the Stampede’s 100th Anniversary this year, Calgary also co-holds the title of Cultural Capital of Canada in 2012. As a result, Tourism Calgary is seeking different ways of marketing their city, including how to highlight their burgeoning food scene. So for two days in February, Tourism Calgary invited several food bloggers to join them for “a new take on steak”, showcasing how five local restaurants are interpreting the old standard of meat and potatoes. Mack and I were fortunate enough to be a part of this group (which included Calgary bloggers Julie van Rosendaal, Gwendolyn Richards and Dan Clapson), and took part in a junket that saw our accommodations and meals covered. It was a first for both of us, and while we acknowledge that we no doubt received special treatment (which colours the experience in a way that no average dinner could live up to), the trade-off in access to the chefs and behind-the-scenes exposure made it worthwhile. Thanks to Tourism Calgary for the opportunity!

Established in July 2011, Ox & Angela is the second venture from Kelly Black and Jayme MacFayden of Una Pizza fame. Had it not been pointed out to us, however, I’m pretty sure we would have walked right past it. The plain white exterior does not at all connote the warmth and chic comfort that awaits inside.

Ox & Angela

Ox & Angela is divided into two personified rooms: the “Ox” lounge is all dark wood and unfussy, and with the large flat screen on one end, could be mistaken for a high-end pub. “Angela” was explained to us as Ox’s companion was complete with classy, feminine touches such as a wall of framed mirrors. We were seated in Angela, without the distraction of the streaming Superbowl coverage and with a view into the kitchen. I loved that the dining areas had a story – it suggested that the food would be made with just as much care and thoughtfulness.

Angela

Given the intention of this tour was to turn the stereotype of a typical plate of steak and potatoes on its head, Ox & Angela was the perfect place to start because diners aren’t presented with just one dish. Purporting the tapas style of sharing small plates, our meal consisted of steak, accompaniments and a number of side dishes.

I really enjoy this way of eating, as it enabled us to sample a wide variety of tastes, and in many ways, felt more like a night out as opposed to just having dinner. As well, in the context of our motley crew, sharing food helped facilitate conversation and familiarity.

Family style

The Spring Creek Ranch flat iron steak was front and centre, served with a mojo verde and a lemon aioli. The meat itself was moist and full of flavour on its own, but it was great to be able to dress up our steak in whatever way we wanted.

Flat iron steak

Mojo verde and lemon aioli

Without a doubt the patatas bravas (which translates to “fierce potatoes”) was the all-around favourite, creamy with the inclusion of the lemon aioli, and finished with a smoked paprika ketchup.

Patatas bravas

For me, the close second was the kale, braised with sherry vinegar, sultanas and toasted panko. Kale is already one of my favourite vegetables, but the preparation made me fall in love with it all over again – the bit of sweetness and crunch livened up the greens. Mack really enjoyed the tomato bread, which was simply grilled sourdough rubbed with garlic and tomato (something we were told that the Spanish typically eat with steak). Scallions were given a similarly straightforward treatment, grilled, tossed with sea salt, and topped with a salsa romesco. Like most of the menu, the sides featured simple ingredients executed brilliantly.

Braised kale with sultanas and toasted panko

Tomato bread

Grilled green onions with a salsa romanesco

No one could pass up dessert, especially because churros were involved. Deep fried to a crisp, but still doughy on the inside, the churros were served with dipping chocolate, and were as fun to eat as the dinner that preceded them. Mack ate more than his fair share!

Churros!

Ox & Angela was such a delight. Even though it is barely six months old, it was clear that the restaurant has a strong identity and holds true to its Latin inspirations. Without hesitation, I would return to Ox & Angela again – for the food and for the experience.

Ox & Angela
528 17 Avenue SW, Calgary
(403) 457-1432 (ext.#1)

To T.O.: Summerlicious Adventures

Summerlicious, Toronto’s bi-annual prix fixe dining event and warm weather counterpoint to Winterlicious, puts Edmonton’s Fork Fest and Downtown Dining Week to shame. I realize it’s not exactly fair to compare our mid-size city’s efforts with those of Canada’s largest municipality, but the sheer number of restaurants (150 restaurants, all told), at every price point, in each quadrant of Toronto, that participate in the festival was mind-boggling.

My experience of Summerlicious made me consider planning my future travels around the event; it encouraged us to sample restaurants that I likely would not have otherwise – both in terms of high-end dining and in choosing lesser-known establishments.

In all, I sampled four Summerlicious menus (notably, Lee Lounge did not participate, cheekily naming their menu that week “Susurlicious”). We did have to make reservations in advance, though we did luck out with at least one known cancellation.

Jump

Jump was my entry point into the Oliver & Bonacini empire in Toronto. With the exception of Olive & Bonacini Cafe Grill, all of the O & B establishments are distinct in name and menu, and vary in level of formality and price, from the cafeteria-style O & B Canteen to the casual upscale Bannock to Canoe, their five-star crown jewel.

Nestled in the financial district, Jump was definitely a business lunch paradise – we were among only a few tables not in office attire. That said, we weren’t treated any differently, and after we arrived, were promptly led to a cozy wooden booth in the heart of the restaurant.

Jump

I loved the open concept kitchen, which seemed to give the restaurant a continuous sense of movement, with servers streaming in and out of the space with ease. The dining room also felt very warm, helped by the score of windows and skylights – it would be interesting to see how the atmosphere would change after nightfall.

Interior

The 3-course, $25 prix fixe menu provided quite a few options – our choice of four appetizers, four entrees and three desserts. My wild & tame mushroom soup, with no less than six kinds of mushrooms, had good depth and texture. And though they made do without butter or cream, a dollop would have gone a long way. Amanda’s watermelon and goat’s milk feta salad was gorgeous, summery and fresh.

Wild & tame mushroom soup

Watermelon and goat’s milk feta salad

We both couldn’t pass up the pulled pork for our main. It wasn’t the most elegant dish to eat, but then again, we weren’t on a business lunch! It was damn delicious, with flavourful mesquite barbecue sauce and pork that nearly melted in our mouths. The side of bagged kettle chips cheapened it a bit, however.

Pulled barbecue pork

It’s been a while since I’ve had panna cotta as smooth and silky as Jump’s. Their butterscotch version with salted caramel was just perfect, subtly sweet with a salty finish. Amanda also enjoyed her amaretto chocolate marquise cake – it was her favourite dessert that week, and even now, months later, is something she still thinks about.

Butterscotch panna cotta

Amaretto chocolate marquise cake

Jump was a great introduction to O & B. And it wouldn’t be long before we experienced them again.

Canoe

That same day, we had called Canoe (the most recommended Summerlicious restaurant on Chowhound) on a whim to see if we could get a last-minute reservation, as they were completely booked up on Open Table. Lucky for us, they had a cancellation, and we were able to snag a table early that evening. Sure, it meant we had to eat supper only two hours after completing our lunch, but Amanda and I were up for the challenge.

Located on the fifty-forth floor of the TD Tower, Canoe had an absolutely amazing view – we spent the first few minutes agog at the sights outside the window, including the CN Tower, Rogers Centre, Billy Bishop Airport and of course, Lake Ontario.

The view

Service was professional and friendly, and matched the sleek but understated room. At first, we thought we’d be in the minority ordering off the $45 prix fixe menu, but seeing the same dishes coming out of the kitchen, we knew others were also taking advantage of the great deal. We had the choice of three appetizers, three entrees and three desserts.

My deconstructed salad featured Ontario bufala mozzarella, and it was a revelation: creamy, with so much inherent richness. It contrasted the fresh pops of peas and celery very well – I didn’t even mind the crab! Amanda wasn’t sure about the cold smoked whitefish and chilled potato puree, but she liked it in the end. It was also her first brush with edible flowers.

Ontario bufala mozzarella salad

Purdy’s smoked whitefish

Although I enjoyed my pan-roasted Great Lakes pickerel, the sides on my plate were the real star of the show – I loved the sweet corn and corn puree underneath. Amanda’s dish had mine beat, however – her slow-cooked Ontario pork loin was so tender, and even better, the Israeli couscous made us rethink that grain. Apparently, it had simply been cooked with mirepoix and stock, but tasted like so much more.

Pan roasted Great Lakes pickerel

Slow-cooked Ontario pork loin

Our dessert was a bittersweet chocolate terrine was made up of vanilla marshmallow, Barrie Hill Farms strawberries and basil crème anglaise. I wasn’t a huge fan of the divergent textures, from the spongy top to the sorbet-like layer underneath.

Chocolate terrine

As a whole, Canoe provided us with a great evening out – the view alone was worth the price of dinner, but at just $45, it was without a doubt our best deal in Toronto that week.

Trevor Bar & Kitchen

Many of my friends have relocated to Toronto in the past few years – I met up with two of them at Trevor Bar & Kitchen to catch up over dinner. Janice’s coworker had recommended this restaurant, though at first glance, it wasn’t the ideal location on a muggy evening, with no air conditioning and too many lit candles to boot. On any other trip, the dinner at Trevor would have been near the top of my list, but because we dined at so many exceptional restaurants that week, it ended up in the middle.

My favourite thing about my mozzarella and tomato risotto were the bits of melty cheese inside. The rice had been cooked well, and I liked the tomato flavour throughout.

Mozzarella and tomato risotto

The second course, a barbecue duck ravioli was a good fusion offering – the sauce, a thin broth, was a welcome, if unexpected, surprise. Presentation-wise, it didn’t seem to have been plated with much care.

Barbeque duck ravioli

I ordered the sorbet for dessert primarily because I wanted something cool, but it turned to a soup almost immediately. It was still refreshing, though less pleasurable to eat.

Sorbet

Though I imagine Trevor Bar & Kitchen would be a great spot to grab a post-work cocktail and a casual nibble, with the breadth of restaurants Toronto has to offer, I doubt I’d return straightaway.

The Drake – “Summer School”

Chef Anthony Rose’s restaurant, located in The Drake Hotel, was my favourite restaurant experience of the entire trip. The Drake, a hipster boutique hotel in West Queen West, had created a lot of buzz about their pop-up restaurant series, which rotated concepts every few months. In many ways, because Rose is the in-house chef, I’m not sure it would really qualify as a pop-up, but I loved the idea that some of the decor would at least change with each incarnation.

Interior

In July, The Drake was transformed into a “Summer School”, complete with kitschy accessories that I was unabashedly giddy over. Everything from the duotang menus, scantrons and Rubik’s cube salt shakers on the table. Offering a menu of 3 courses for $35, a taste of their retro dishes also didn’t break the bank.

Giddy

No matter what though, Mack and I agreed that we had to indulge in their too-cool “juice box cocktails”, which were actually served in tetra paks. Who knew drinking from a straw could be so much fun?

Cheers!

Amanda and I both chose dishes off the prix fixe list, but Mack decided to select from the regular menu, and opted not to order either an appetizer or a dessert. Amanda thoroughly enjoyed her creamy salad, not hard to do when two of her favourite things – shrimp and avocado – were stars of the dish. I also loved my alphabet soup, thicker than I anticipated, but slightly sweet and rife with perfectly cooked pasta.

Salad

Alphabet soup

Amanda and I both ordered the fried chicken for our main – it was the best choice we could have made. The chicken had been de-boned, making it easy to eat (bonus!), but was still moist on the inside with a crispy shell on the outside. It was further enhanced with a dollop of wildflower honey on top. The side of cabbage slaw was light and refreshing, and although Amanda was full, nothing would stop her from finishing the rustic mashed potatoes on the plate, as buttery as they were.

Fried chicken

Mack’s entree was comprised of an absolutely massive lobster roll ($27), which contained one pound of lobster! While the first few bites were good, Mack said it was much too heavy for one person. Besides that, the dish came with four sides. His favourite was the macaroni and cheese, with the pickled cucumbers and red onions a close second.

Conquer that!

All through dinner, I was most looking forward to dessert. Passion Flakie (sold in the same section as Twinkies, I realize), was one of my favourite childhood treats, and I was excited to see how Chef Rose would elevate it. Unfortunately, it didn’t quite live up to expectations – Amanda’s was underbaked, and mine was overdone. I would have also preferred the whipped cream and fruit layers to have been more silky smooth.

Passion Flakie

As a whole though, we had a great time that night. The setting, the service (our waiter seemed to genuinely love his job), and the food helped create something special.

The No-Line Brunch: Wildflower Grill

When Amanda was in Edmonton for the Chinese New Year weekend, we decided to go for brunch as a family. We limited our options to places that accepted reservations (so we wouldn’t have to wait indefinitely to be seated, especially given our party of six), and ended up at Wildflower Grill.

I had brunch there once (albeit a few years ago), and it is definitely not the bustling Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives atmosphere that some prefer to ramp up the weekend with. Wildflower Grill offers a casually elegant and refined environment, which is relaxing in a different way.

That Sunday, we were led to a table immediately upon arrival. The restaurant was about half-full, with many parties, like us, made up of larger groups. Unfortunately, we had been seated out of the server’s eyesight, which may have contributed to the fact that we weren’t greeted for some time.

Eventually, the server made her way to our table, and we placed our beverage and food orders straightaway (as a precaution, just in case she was again called away for an extended period of time). We hoped to be proven wrong, but again, it took an unusually long time for our coffees to be delivered – a brunch deal breaker. Thankfully, our server was great in refilling the French press, so we were never without a full pot of coffee on the table.

To tide us over until our dishes arrived, we were served a warm-from-the-oven corn bread with some citrus maple butter. Although Wildflower’s brioche bread will always remain one of my favourites, this was a very close second – dense and slightly sweet.

Corn bread

Our dishes arrived in a flurry, and everyone in my family appreciated the plating. My Mum, Felicia and Mack had all ordered the eggs benedict two ways ($15), featuring one red wine poached served with back bacon, and a saffron poached egg over hickory pear glazed chicken. The eggs were cooked inconsistently; most of them were medium and not soft-poached. Mack enjoyed the back bacon version more, as the chicken was overcooked and dry.

Eggs benedict two ways

Amanda liked her Spanish skillet ($13) of scrambled eggs, potato pave and chorizo wrapped inside corn tortillas enough, but had a bit of dish envy, as she didn’t get the same side of cheesy potatoes that the rest of us had (they were a favourite around the table). She did appreciate the fruit cup though.

Spanish skillet

I had chosen the brioche bread pudding French toast ($14), which was crowned with a generous amount of fresh fruit and grand marnier raisins – it was like having dessert for breakfast! Each slice was moist and dense, but I probably could have done with just two slices because of how rich they were.

Brioche bread pudding French toast

We had the option of actually ordering dessert bites (at $4.50 a pop), but all of us were too stuffed for another course – and to answer to that, they actually had a “cookies to go” program, which was a neat idea.

Although the food and service wasn’t consistent with our previous experiences at Wildflower Grill, for a reasonably-priced brunch without the need to rush or jostle with others in line, I would return again.

Wildflower Grill
10009 107 Street
(780) 990-1938
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 4:30-10pm, Friday – Saturday 4:30-11pm; Brunch: Sunday 11am-2pm

Better than a Buffet: Africa Restaurant

A colleague and I met halfway between both of our offices at Africa Restaurant the previous Wednesday for lunch. Last year, the establishment changed hands – Mebrat had been a community mainstay for many years, but the transition to Africa Restaurant seemed rather seamless, and I’d heard that the menu of Eritrean and Ethiopian dishes had been preserved. This was the first time at the restaurant for both of us.

We settled into one of the comfortable black booths just inside the doors. Natural light streamed in from the windows, making it a very pleasant place for lunch, especially on that cold winter day.

Interior

The menu featured the variety of meat and vegetarian dishes we expected, to be eaten with injera. But the random sandwiches and pastas didn’t seem to fit – I wondered if they were remnants of the previous menu that attempted to serve varied community tastes (similar to Pho Huong/Mama Pizza’s split menu of Vietnamese cuisine and pizza). We decided to try a meat and vegetarian combination ($24), which would give us the means to sample a large array of items.

The food arrived in expedient fashion, a colourful platter featuring lamb, chicken, beef, lentils and vegetables. All of the meat dishes were spicy, but they were nicely balanced by the green salad and beans.

Combination platter

The lentils are typically my favourite on such platters, and it was no different on this occasion – they were well-seasoned, creamy and were moderately spiced. The dorho tibsi was the most difficult to eat with the injera, the egg slipping between our inexperienced fingers, but was the most rewarding – creamy with a good kick. The lamb tibsi was probably the weakest link, lacking flavour, overcooked and chewy. Needless to say, with the deceivingly filling injera in our stomachs, we ended up with a large box of leftovers. With this buffet for two priced at just $12 a person, it was a fantastic value.

Service was perhaps a little too hands off, but I can understand how the server thought we wanted to be left alone to converse. In all though, Africa Restaurant is another restaurant I am fortunate to have within a stone’s throw of my office – definitely worth seeking out as an Ethiopian and Eritrean option in the city.

Africa Restaurant
10603 107 Avenue
(780) 756-1515

No Tau Bay: Quan Pho

If one neighbourhood could particularly benefit from an “open house” event like Taste of Whyte or an organized food crawl, it would be the Avenue of Nations. Because of a transient population and a stigma of a high rate of crime, among other things, people often shy away from visiting the neighbourhoods of Central McDougall and Queen Mary Park (around 107 Avenue from 101 to 120 Streets). But by doing that, they are missing many great small businesses, many run by hard-working immigrant families.

However, I understand how the area can be intimidating to those who don’t often frequent it. So an event, which could include restaurants like Pho Huong and Mama Pizza, African Safari and Acajutla, would definitely help increase awareness of these gems, and perhaps help people realize that the neighbourhood is more than its reputation.

I was hoping to add relative newcomer Quan Pho (10117 107 Avenue) to this list. It opened up late last year, replacing a short-lived hot pot restaurant (and before that, Viet Huong Noodle House, which has since located to 98 Street). I have passed it many times on foot, and it always seemed to be populated with small groups – not a bad sign, especially in an area saturated with Vietnamese eateries.

My colleague Heather and I met some associates for lunch there on Friday afternoon, Quan Pho being new to all of us. The interior is clean and updated with comfortable leather chairs. Their three page menu was bright and easy to read, and featured a variety of vermicelli bowls, noodle soups and rice plates. I was happy to see the option of beef balls and brisket – my two favourite meats, rarely offered together ($6.50 for small, $7.50 for large).

Unfortunately, both Heather and I were quite disappointed with the food. She had ordered the bun with shrimp, grilled meatballs and a spring roll ($8.25). She commented that the meatballs in particular were more reminiscent of spam than the usual flavourful pork.

Vermicelli bowl with shrimp, meatballs and a spring roll

My large pho was actually quite small, in both size and meat quantity (and could be compared with the small at Pho Tau Bay). The meatballs were fine, but the brisket resembled well done flank more than anything else. And although there was a generous sprinkling of green onions, onions and cilantro, the broth itself was one-note, and not particularly fragrant or nuanced.

Pho with brisket and beef balls

Worst of all was the service – we received the impression that the server wanted to do anything but look us in the eye. When she first started delivering the dishes (which we ordered by number, as delineated on the menu), she wasn’t able to tell us which dish was associated with which number, and instead of double checking herself, handed us a menu. Later, when we requested the bill, she provided us with a hand written total of our entire meal, with no breakdown of individual dish cost.

My hope is that the server was having a bad day, or the kitchen was off that afternoon. But because it wasn’t a very positive experience, coupled with the fact that there are a number of establishments in the immediate area that offer better food and good service (Pho Huang/Mama Pizza and Pho Tau Bay come to mind), I’m not sure I’ll be back soon. A shame – for the neighbourhood and pho lovers in Edmonton.

Quan Pho
10117 107 Avenue
(780) 761-0402

Time to Shabu-Shabu: Sabu Sushi Bar

Almost a year after Jill, Kathryn and I had decided that we would dine at Sabu Sushi Bar together, we finally made it to the restaurant.

Last Wednesday, the three of us met at the Korean-Japanese restaurant Sabu to sample shabu-shabu. Although my family indulges in Chinese-style hot pot every now and then, this was my first dalliance with the Japanese version of hot pot. Jill and Kathryn, on the other hand, having both visited Japan and Korea years ago, were familiar with shabu-shabu.

The interior of Sabu is warm and comfortable, in spite of the low ceilings. The wood paneling and furniture were simple and unfussy, though the panelled booths at the front of the restaurant were eye-catching.

Interior

It was a quiet evening inside the restaurant, with only three other parties that dined alongside us that night. This translated into attentive service though, and later, when it looked like we needed some assistance with our approach to shabu-shabu, we received some motherly guidance.

To whet our appetite, we shared an appetizer of agedashi tofu ($5.95). Lightly fried and served in a slightly tart sauce, they were a tasty way to start our meal.

Agedashi tofu

We were directed by our server to start with two servings of food to share between the three of us ($19.95/serving), indicating that we could easily add more meat, vegetables, or udon if we still felt hungry afterwards. So along with a tabletop gas burner and a pot filled with coffee-coloured seaweed-based stock, two platters arrived: one laden with frozen rolls of thinly-sliced beef and a brick of udon, and another with soft tofu and an assortment of vegetables, including enoki mushrooms, baby bok choy, suey choy, onions and carrots. We were also given two dipping sauces, a creamy sesame sauce and ponzu, as well as a ladle and some tongs.

Meat and udon

Vegetables

Our server was apparently mistaken when he directed us to start with the udon first (after the soup had come to a boil). Not a moment later, the matron of the restaurant swung by our table and told us that the noodles are typically the last to go into the pot, as they would benefit from being simmered in a broth that by that point would have been flavoured by everything else that had come before it. No matter, she said, and before we could blink an eye, had spooned some of the cooked noodles and soup into our bowls, and showed us how to prepare the meat – swished around in the broth just until its hue changed, then dipped into the ponzu. In rolled form, the meat was easy to handle, and cooked and eaten as directed, was moist and tender, with a briny kick from the ponzu.

Pot before

Jill said it best – she enjoys meals most when they are “experiences”, and shabu-shabu is a great example of a fun and interactive way to dine. Eating a little bit of this, a little bit of that, one fills up surprisingly quickly though!

Pot after

I loved how the soup gradually thickened, enhanced by the items that simmered away. Unlike the Chinese-style hot pot I am used to, where the base (usually water and some chili paste) is not consumed, this actually made more sense to me – enriched by vegetables and meat, the intensely-flavoured soup should be a part of the meal! Kathryn remarked, as we approached the end of our second batch of soup, that the broth tasted very similar to the rich, beefy stock used in French onion soup, salty and concentrated with flavour. And as we let the mixture continue to reduce down, it ended up creating a luxurious syrup that I thought twice about packing up to bring home – it would have greatly enhanced any homemade soup.

Glorious shabu-shabu residue

Sabu provided a great introduction to shabu-shabu; I can’t stop thinking about that broth! It was really reasonably priced too – each of us paid just over $20 each (including tip!). Think about making Sabu your destination on a cold winter’s night – you won’t regret it!

Sabu Sushi Bar
7450 82 Avenue
(780) 756-7228
Monday, Wednesday, Thursday: 11am-3pm, 5-9pm; Friday: 11am-3pm, 5-10pm; Saturday 11am-3pm, 5-10pm; Sunday: noon-8pm; closed Tuesdays

Birthday Surprise: Wild Tangerine

Mack, Kat and I surprised Jill with a birthday dinner at Wild Tangerine last Monday. She was kept in the dark right up until she walked into the restaurant – it was funny when she saw my name on the reservation register and thought, “What a coincidence that Sharon is here too!”

Wilson Wu, co-owner and host, was his usual gregarious self, and was more than generous on this occasion of sharing some of the treats that the kitchen had come up with for the season. First, we were invited to try their Christmas pizza with smoked turkey, cranberries and instead of a tomato sauce, a layer of pureed yams. It was definitely not the usual delivery variety – light with a seeded crust, it’d make a great starter for a party (it’s available through the Good Food Box and at the restaurant).

Holiday pizza

Wilson was also nice enough to gift us bags of their holiday tangerine-glazed popcorn, mixed with dried fruits and nuts. We gave the popcorn to Mack’s parents, and they found it quite enjoyable.

Popcorn

To start, we had to introduce Jill and Kat to Wild Tangerine’s famous shrimp lollipops. If you haven’t yet tried these perfectly fried morsels, served with wasabi yogurt, make it your mission in 2012 to do so – they’re one of Edmonton’s best appetizers.

Shrimp Lollipops

For mains, Kat and Jill decided on the night’s special, an ahi tuna with shredded Brussels sprouts and rice. The tuna was cooked well, pink and tender, enhanced with a chia seed crust.

Ahi tuna

Mack ordered another special, a sablefish served with a dried scallop consommé. The fish was flaky, while the broth had a deep umami flavour. Mack wasn’t sure what to think of the garnish, but actually quite enjoyed the skin crisps.

Sablefish

I opted to try the Siao Hseng Wine slow-cooked Ardrossan bison short bibs with sushi rice. The meat was fall-off-the-bone tender, and while sushi rice was unexpected (as opposed to the typical jasmine), the piece-y, slightly tangy grains worked well. I also liked the crispy chips, though for presentation purposes, I expected a sprinkle of something with more pop.

Bison short ribs

Jill’s dessert of a chocolate tart with coconut and watermelon arrived with the cutest duck candle. It was smooth, with a buttery crust.

Chocolate from the East

I preferred the chocolate tart to the crème caramel that Mack and I shared. It was set nicely though, a silky texture offset with cubes of watermelon and gems of pomegranate.

Crème caramel

I’ve never been disappointed with a meal at Wild Tangerine, whatever the occasion. We’ll be back soon!

Wild Tangerine
10383 112 Street
(780) 429-3131
Monday-Thursday 11:30am-10pm, Friday 11:30am-11pm, Saturday 5-11pm, closed Sundays

A Raw (Food) Adventure: Noorish

The second half of 2011 has seen a rash of vegetarian restaurants open in Edmonton (The Clever Rabbit on 124 Street is forthcoming, while another vegetarian restaurant, Veggie Garden Restaurant, opened in November). Noorish, subtitled a “conscious eatery & superfood elixir bar”, kicked off this trend in October, but seemed to go beyond just food – they promote a holistic philosophy of health that also includes yoga and meditation classes, and raw food and vegan education seminars. For me though, the best point of entry has always been food, so May, Annie and I decided to give their menu a spin on Friday.

We were told there was a reservation black out period during the prime dinner hour on Fridays and Saturdays, but we decided to chance it anyway. Although all of the tables were taken up when we arrived at 6:30, the friendly hostess seated us immediately at a low-slung lounge area to wait for a table. We were moved not ten minutes later, seated in their beautifully carved but comfortably solid wooden chairs.

The restaurant, though bustling with patrons celebrating the weekend, felt as laid-back as it was warm. The wood furniture, floors, fall colour palette and tabletop greenery created a very inviting atmosphere – the space was designed for lingering. Noorish also features a small retail space at the rear of the restaurant, and offers a variety of ready-to-eat products and cookbooks.

Interior

To tempt our palate, we started with drinks from their extensive beverage menu. Annie and May decided to try the homemade kombucha tea with cranberry ($3.50) , an “effervescent fermented mushroom tea”, which apparently helps build immunity. I ordered the Chagachino chai ($8), which is made with a 11 different ingredients (most of which I had never heard of before). The tea wasn’t what Annie and May expected, tasting closer to an alcoholic cocktail with its acidic kick than a juice. My chai had a similar kick, possibly from the cayenne, or some of the other ingredients I was unfamiliar with. While it was definitely complex (with health benefits similar to the kombucha), at $8, it was definitely a one-time drink for me – I’ll stick with regular chai.

Kombucha tea and chai

The entree menu was a lot less extensive, with just nine dishes to choose from (excluding the breakfast, desserts and treats menu). But for a small restaurant, I’m glad they decided to concentrate on just a few dishes, instead of attempting to stretch themselves too thin.

For us raw food newbies, we appreciated being able to find familiar terms like “nachos” and “pizza” on the menu. I realize those words bring certain connotations to mind (namely, “cheesy” and “piping hot”), but it helped ease our transition to their philosophy. We were told that as much as 50-80% of nutrients are lost when food is cooked above 40C, but raw food has other benefits as well, including easier digestion, clearer skin and as a whole, having to consume less food. The term “living food” was used quite a few times, and though I recognize it was meant to denote the line between “raw” and “cooked” substances, I couldn’t help but imagine the ingestion of squirming insects.

Noorish focuses on raw veganism, so one won’t find a trace of meat on their menu. In its place are protein-rich foods like legumes, nuts and seeds. The roasted root vegetables in the Me-so Noorished ($16) appealed to Annie, while May wanted to try their Bodhi Tree Burger ($17). I ordered the Mystical Mandala Pizza ($16).

In spite of the packed house, our food arrived quickly (in some ways, the raw philosophy benefits a busy kitchen, where much of the prep is done beforehand, while assembly is the main task at hand at meal time). The plates were massive, and each of our entrees were accompanied by one of their salads. There is no doubt Noorish knows its salads – May’s quinoa salad had great flavour and texture, while my side of wilted kale salad really made me rethink the possibilities of kale. The leaves were tender tossed with the miso lemon dressing, and I particularly loved the addition of the fresh sprouts.

Bodhi Tree Burger

Annie had no complaints about her dish. She had been craving starch all day, so the combination of beets, yams and potatoes, smothered in a miso hemp gravy and melted vegan mozza cheese hit the spot. May didn’t know what to expect of her sprouted chickpea burger, but enjoyed it enough to comment that she would order it again.

Me-so Noorished

The pizza was a sight to see – I have to say the most off-putting thing was the radioactive orange cashew chili cheese – more reminiscent of processed Cheese-Whiz than anything else. I could have done with a little more vegetables and a lighter hand with the cheese, but the seeded flatbread crust stood out the most. Crunchy and nutty, it was a vehicle that I could imagine using for dips, as a crostini, or to accompany soup.

Mystical Mandala Pizza

We were all surprisingly full at the end of the meal, so much so that we had to forego dessert (unusual for the three of us). We agreed that while Noorish wouldn’t necessarily end up in our regular rotation of restaurants, we were happy to have opened our eyes to the possibilities of raw cuisine. If it’s something you haven’t yet tried – Noorish is the perfect place to get acquainted with this philosophy, and fill your belly at the same time.

Noorish
8440- 109th Street
(780) 756-6880
Tuesday-Thursday 11am-10pm, Friday 11am-11pm, Saturday 10am-11pm, Sunday 11am-10pm, closed Mondays

Ramen on the Brain: Meguro Ramen

The topic of Chinatown revitalization has been bandied about a lot in the past year, especially with flashy projects like the Yorkton Development residential towers and the Wild Rose Circle Development. But in the short term, existing businesses that bring people into the area will have a greater impact – no area can rely on large-scale developments alone.

That’s why it was great to see that a new ramen joint joined the Chinatown fray in recent months. Instead of opting for a newer, suburban location, Meguro Ramen chose to situate itself in the heart of Chinatown on 97 Street, in the space formerly occupied by Padmanadi.

In other large North American cities, the ramen trend has exploded, with eaters ravenous for hand-pulled noodles and umami broth. Ramen doesn’t yet have the same foothold in Edmonton, but we may get there soon if more restaurants with this focus continue to open up. During November’s cold snap, I met Annie at Meguro Ramen for lunch on a Saturday.

Save for the instant version, my experience with ramen has been limited. But in many ways, because of my love of pho, I am already partial to oversized bowls of noodle soup. At the same time, I knew my bias would affect my reception of dishes outside the realm of beef broth and rice noodles.

The interior has been completely transformed – gone is the buffet service, the dated paint, the wall of thumb tacked photos. In its place is a dramatic red and black room with paper and glass lantern accents, a space that I think would look even better after dark.

Interior

Although Meguro does serve dishes outside of the ramen family (about ten appetizers, and three different rice bowls), we zoned in on their namesake entree. We had the choice of ten varieties, made up of different kinds of broth and toppings, including the most unusual combination of ramen and cheese of all things. I didn’t stray far from pho, ordering the beef noodle ($10.95), while Annie opted for the curry ramen ($9.95).

Menu (I really appreciated the pictures)

Given we were among just three other parties, it wasn’t a surprise that our food arrived quickly. But we appreciated the expedient service, especially on that cold afternoon. The steaming bowls were garnished beautifully, while the atypical soup spoon helped round out its presentation.

Beef noodle ramen

I enjoyed the beef very much, tender, with just the right amount of fat. The noodles were quite good as well, thicker than I had anticipated, but satisfyingly chewy. The broth was a bit of a disappointment for me; bland and lacking flavour, I had to reach for quite a bit of the spice shaker on the table to liven it up. Annie had similar thoughts about her dish – thumbs up to the pork (which she found to be better than Nomiya), but was expecting a broth to have much more kick.

Curry ramen

When we went to the counter to pay, we asked the staff whether or not their noodles were made in-house. He responded, “It’s a secret.” Maybe it was meant tongue-in-cheek, but we interpreted that to mean, “No.”

Though our lunch didn’t quite show me what all the ramen hype was about, Meguro Ramen is close enough to my workplace that I think I will be back again soon – there are at least nine other ramen dishes that I’ll have to work my way through after all!

Meguro Ramen
10626 97 Street
(780) 497-8280
Sunday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm

A Family Favourite: Cô Dô Huê

Every pho enthusiast has their favourite. Mine happens to be Pho Tau Bay for many reasons, but at the top: they are efficient and consistent. It definitely helps that it is the only dish they serve, so due attention can be paid to the soup base.

That said, I’m always open to trying new places, and my parents were eager to share their favourite with the rest of my family. Consequently, when Amanda was back in town in mid-November for her convocation, we headed to Cô Dô Huê one chilly evening for dinner.

Located in a non-descript strip mall in ~~Castledowns~~ Pembina, I would say that Cô Dô Huê could have the status of a hidden gem…except for the fact they had nearly a full house on a random Tuesday.

The interior was clean, pained a restrained shade of green. The patterned, upholstered chairs dated the space a bit, but I did appreciate the booths, including a large, circular one that we eventually settled into. It felt like we could’ve held court on the dining room!

The family!

The first thing I noticed about the menu were the prices – pho (albeit no size options to choose from) were priced at $9.95, about $2 more than the Chinatown restaurants like Pho Tau Bay that I more often frequent. Still, it was the mission of the day to try it, so both Felicia and I ordered our standard bowls: special beef noodle soup for her, and medium rare beef for me.

Mack, who typically shies away from soup, was convinced to select the spicy beef noodle soup (which a few of my parents’ friends claim is the best in the city). Amanda opted for her usual vermicelli bowl, and my parents ordered rice plates. We also agreed to share green onion cakes ($4.95) at my urging.

Three colour rice plate

Four colour rice plate (my dad couldn’t stop raving about the grilled shrimp on sugarcane)

Vermicelli bowl with grilled pork

Food came out quickly, in spite of the full room. The green onion cakes were a hit with the table, fried to a golden perfection. They were even salty enough for me!

Green onion cakes

The pho servings were large, as expected (Felicia barely got halfway through her noodles). The broth was clear, imbued with the familiar flavours of anise and cloves, among others. My beef, shaved thin, also remained tender throughout, and didn’t overcook. The only contentious spot was Felicia’s tendon; it was undercooked, and thus didn’t melt in her mouth as is her preference.

Special beef noodle soup

Medium rare beef noodle soup

Mack also enjoyed his soup (hallelujah!), spicy and full of texture. More importantly, he mentioned that he’d be open to having pho in the future!

Spicy beef noodle soup

Service as a whole was great – servers were attentive, and returned numerous times to check on us and to refill our water. Although I wouldn’t hesitate to dine at Cô Dô Huê again, its location would prevent me from doing so at a regular frequency. But you can bet you’ll be seeing my parents there again soon!

Cô Dô Huê
12819 140 Avenue
(780) 475-2660

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