Our New Local: Cask & Barrel

104 Street will soon be bookended by two upscale pubs – the Mercer Tavern at 104 Avenue is set to open this summer, while the newest addition to the Promenade, Cask & Barrel, opened last week.

This soft opening has allowed the kitchen and wait staff to work out initial kinks, but they’re leading up to their grand opening party on March 30 and 31, 2012. Mack and I were invited to a sneak peek on Wednesday night, and walked down the block after work to check out our new local. Owners Wayne Jones (of the Starlite Room and Brixx Bar & Grill) and Susan Forsey also live just down the street, so in many ways, this is simply a parlour they wanted to see in their neighbourhood as much as it is a business venture.

Susan Forsey of Cask & Barrel

Tucked on the southeast end of the Jaffer Building, and still without external signage, Cask & Barrel doesn’t quite have street presence yet, but in the summer, they hope to extend their seating on a sidewalk patio. Once inside, however, the interior makes an impression. It reminded me of what Local Public Eatery set out to be when it first opened in Edmonton – if it were less corporate, more intimate, and not situated in South Edmonton Common.

Interior

The colours are quite muted, with shades of textured blue and grey on the floor and walls. But they work well with the large windows and multitude of natural accents in the room, including raw wood above the sunken bar, tree stumps as lounge tables, and perhaps my favourite – Vinoture up-cycled bar stools constructed from discarded wine barrels. The theme of re-using and re-purposing items also shows itself in the light fixtures as well – overturned salad bowls became light shades, and dated chandeliers destined for the trash bin found new life once given a makeover. Though there will be a few more additions to the decor (such as locally-produced art), the room felt comfortable and pleasing aesthetically.

Wine barrel to bar stool!

Chef Mikael Charlton, who worked in Victoria prior to relocating to Edmonton, has created a casual menu featuring his twists on pub favourites priced at $8.50-$12.50, including eight different sandwiches. Susan treated us to two entrees and drinks during our visit, and after careful deliberation, we chose to sample their versions of mac ‘n’ cheese and chicken pot pie.

Mack enjoyed the farafelle baked with three cheeses and cream, but I would have preferred a slightly saucier base (our favourite mac ‘n’ cheeses are enveloped in the sauce). The chicken savoury, a butter chicken pot pie topped with layered pastry was excellent – nice heat, tender meat, and a well-seasoned gravy. The side of beef barley soup could have used some more salt and a lighter hand with the cornstarch, but the Chef acknowledged that it was a recipe he was working on. As a whole, however, Mack and I agreed that the portion sizes were good – not overwhelming but filling.

Farafelle

Chicken savoury

In the weeks to come, Chef Charlton will continue to make some adjustments to the menu. In the summer, Cask & Barrel is planning to open for weekend brunches, and will hope to incorporate ingredients gleaned from the City Market in those meals. Susan also mentioned that she’d like to offer “connoisseur” events in the future as well, which will encourage both new and experienced beer and whisky drinkers the opportunity to taste and learn more.

We had a great first experience at Cask & Barrel, and best of all, we know it’s not our last. It’s a great addition to our neighbourhood, and one we will be returning to soon!

Cask & Barrel (Twitter: @caskNbarrel)
10041 104 Street
(780) 498-1224

Not Quite There Yet: Afghan Chopan Kebab House

A few of my coworkers and I hosted an Afghan colleague from a Fort McMurray office two weeks ago, and we thought it was an appropriate occasion to try out a new Afghan restaurant within walking distance of our building.

Afghan Chopan Kebab House

Afghan Chopan Kebab House (10756 101 Street) opened up a few weeks ago on 101 Street next to Padmanadi. Although it is located on a major thoroughfare, it is inset on the street and thus easy to miss, which partly explained how quiet the restaurant was that Tuesday afternoon.

The décor was dated but clean, and brightened up by the ample natural light in the space. There is a large take-out counter, but plenty of eat-in space as well. We seated ourselves in a booth next to a window.

Service was surprisingly slow, especially given we were the only party in the restaurant (our request for waters was fulfilled about halfway through our meal). We were provided menus, but when we tried to order off of them, were encouraged to eat from the $9.99 per person buffet instead. The server indicated that the dishes served would be the same – namely, kebabs.

Although there were a number of buffet selections, that wasn’t actually the case – there wasn’t a kebab in sight! That said, there were a nice mix of vegetarian and meat dishes, including some pulse-based stews, pasta, shredded chicken curry and clove-scented rice. Dessert options included rice pudding and fruit.

Savoury buffet options

There’s no doubt that the buffet was value-driven, but the dishes were a mixed bag. The chickpea and bean stew and pasta (sampled on the second go-around) were the best of the lot, prepared and seasoned well. The lentil dish was noticeably undercooked, and perhaps worst of all, the chicken curry was strewn with tiny bone fragments – not appealing to eat at all. We fared better with dessert; the rice pudding had a nice rounded flavour and good texture. For the record, our Afghan colleague enjoyed the food, but noted that he was likely biased, given his homesickness for this cuisine narrowed his judgment.

My first plate

We all agreed, however, that their naan, delivered to our table freshly baked and imbued the unmistakable smokiness from a Tandoori oven, was some of the best we’d tasted in the city. Fluffy and light, it was delicious, even without any drizzle of oil or butter. The bread alone would be worth returning for.

Naan bread

Given Afghan Chopan Kebab House is a small, family-run business, I would hope it does well, particularly in light of the dearth of restaurants specializing in Afghani cuisine in Edmonton. Still, to foster repeat business, they have some kinks to work out with regards to service and consistency.

Afghan Chopan Kebabhouse
10756 101 Street
(780) 756-3191

Calgary Steak-Out: Rouge

In addition to commemorating the Stampede’s 100th Anniversary this year, Calgary also co-holds the title of Cultural Capital of Canada in 2012. As a result, Tourism Calgary is seeking different ways of marketing their city, including how to highlight their burgeoning food scene. So for two days in February, Tourism Calgary invited several food bloggers to join them for “a new take on steak”, showcasing how five local restaurants are interpreting the old standard of meat and potatoes. Mack and I were fortunate enough to be a part of this group (which included Calgary bloggers Julie van Rosendaal, Gwendolyn Richards and Dan Clapson), and took part in a junket that saw our accommodations and meals covered. It was a first for both of us, and while we acknowledge that we no doubt received special treatment (which colours the experience in a way that no average dinner could live up to), the trade-off in access to the chefs and behind-the-scenes exposure made it worthwhile. Thanks to Tourism Calgary for the opportunity!

We ended the YYCSteak Tour at the most formal of the restaurants we dined in that weekend, Rouge. Located in a historic house in the central neighbourhood of Inglewood, Rouge is known for its celebration of seasonal ingredients and exquisite wine pairings. In fact, two years ago, it was named one of the S. Pellegrino World’s 100 Best Restaurants.

Chef Paul Rogalski’s French-style cooking techniques and commitment to local producers reminded me very much of Chef Blair Lebsack. Both have such deep respect for farmers that a conversation with them reminds you that sourcing locally can be the norm and not the exception. We were fortunate that Chef Rogalski was able to sit down and join us for the entire dinner that night and share some of his insights (and of course, introduce each course!).

It was clear that Chef Rogalski had put a lot of thought into his take on steak, so much so that we weren’t getting just one interpretation, but four. The first was a steak tartar, dressed with Rouge’s signature beet paint and an incredible accent of creamy, thick egg yolk that had been cooked in an immersion circulator. Mack thought there could have been more crostini, however.

Steak tartar

Before the second dish arrived, we were told that we would be having shabu-shabu. I really wasn’t expecting the slice of shaved beef, horseradish agar gel and mushroom terrine with an herb-infused elk consommé that we were presented with. I didn’t enjoy the texture of the terrine, and the beef was actually quite difficult to eat in that shallow bowl, so it was not my favourite course. That said, it was easily the most elegant take on shabu-shabu I’ve ever had!

Shabu-shabu

My favourite course was the lamb two ways: a cut of sirloin and braised lamb bound together with lentils. The latter was particularly memorable, with perfectly prepared lentils enriched with bites of tender, shredded lamb.

Lamb two ways

Then, perhaps the most elegant plate of steak that weekend, served with a foie gras and bone marrow spring roll and a salsify bean puree. Not captured in the picture below was the most delicious rosti – it only made sense that their potato component would be equally compact but delicious.

Steak and spring roll

It should be said that Manager Andy MacDonald did an amazing job pairing wines with each course, but because we were departing for Edmonton immediately after that dinner, we didn’t really indulge all that much. On another occasion, we would have been happy to fully partake, but we know from Gwen that the pairings were enjoyable!

A thumbs up from Gwen!

The kitchen even had something sweet for us to end with – a bee pollen macaron with lemon cream.

Macaron

Although we appreciated the experience at Rouge, it was actually our least favourite of the YYCSteak visits. I still can’t quite put my finger on it, but it probably had to do in part with the relative formality of the restaurant compared with the others (I’m finding that I am definitely gravitating more to the casual upscale form of dining as of late). So although there is a time and place for such proper meals, I will admit that Rouge wouldn’t be our first choice on future trips to Calgary.

Still, many thanks to Chef Rogalski and the rest of the staff at Rouge for their generosity and hospitality – it did help round out our perspective of the Calgary steak scene.

Rouge
1240 8 Avenue SE, Calgary
(403) 531-2767

Calgary Steak-Out: Raw Bar

Three years ago, we stayed at Hotel Arts during a weekend jaunt to Calgary. We had enjoyed our stay for the most part, but didn’t get a chance to try the hotel restaurant Raw Bar. To be honest, from the name, my assumption was that their menu would consist of mainly uncooked items – but on the contrary, although they do offer some items such as sushi and oysters, most of Chef Duncan Ly’s dishes are in fact not raw.

Raw Bar was originally intended to be the last stop on our YYC Steak Tour, but because we had to head back to Edmonton that night, a lunch with Hala from Tourism Calgary was organized for us earlier in the day.

Interior (that peeks into the adjacent pool)

Raw Bar is quite a dramatic space, with futuristic touches and a stark red and black colour scheme. We were told the restaurant is known from their cocktails (with an award-winning mixologist on staff), and it was after noon, so we had to try one round of drinks. The menu, filled with gorgeous shots of the coloured drinks, was enticing to say the least, and I have to say, the drinks we received were exactly as they had appeared in the photos! I ended up with a Searching North, a mildly sweet combination of Mount Gay rum, peach and apricot, Turkish Urfa biber and lemongrass. Mack’s Eclectic Orchard, with rhubarb and strawberry, El Dorado rum, hibiscus flowers, peppery spice and mint foam deviated from something he would typically drink, but turned out to be light and refreshing.

Apple Cart Daisy, Eclectic Orchard, Searching North cocktails

Hala and I continued with the tour’s theme, ordering the day’s steak sandwich and pad thai with beef, respectively. Mack decided to take a break from the bovine, and chose the halibut fish and chips. To start, we couldn’t pass up the bacon and mushroom poutine.

The upmarket poutine was definitely not your down-home diner version, only lightly dressed and not smothered in peppercorn gravy. The twice-cooked fries stayed pretty crispy, but we wished a more generous hand had dealt the cheese curds. It was all right, but not something we’d necessarily order again.

Mushroom and bacon poutine

Hala enjoyed her sandwich, cooked a nice medium rare. My pad thai seemed to be an interpretation of the dish I am used to ordering at Thai restaurants, with a creamy base more reminiscent of a pasta sauce than a stir-fry. I did like the variety and proportion of vegetables included, as well as the plump and toothsome shrimp. But the beef was unfortunately overcooked and chewy.

Steak sandwich

Pad thai

Mack fared better with his fish and chips, served with a jalapeño tartar sauce and a grilled lemon. The gaufrette potato chips were especially crisp and easy to enjoy.

Halibut fish and chips

Raw Bar is also known for their poolside service in warmer weather. I can imagine sipping an inventive, seasonal cocktail by the water with some nibbles wouldn’t be a bad way to pass the time. Thanks again to Hala for hosting us that afternoon – it was great to catch up as it was to finally see what Raw Bar had up its sleeve.

Raw Bar (inside Hotel Arts)
119 – 12 Avenue SW, Calgary
(403) 206-9565

For All Ages: Cafe Tiramisu

Mack and I had popped inside Cafe Tiramisu in early January to check out the modern interior, but didn’t have time that day for a sit down meal. That chance came this past Saturday, when the weather beckoned us to explore the neighbourhood on foot (we also stumbled upon a Coup Boutique/Dote Baby pop-up down the street in the former Duchess space!).

Cafe Tiramisu prides itself on offering a family-friendly space, and includes a separate playroom for children. So as expected, the late afternoon crowd consisted mostly of families with small children, though there were also a few pairs like us. It’s great that Cafe Tiramisu has managed to cultivate a space that is both family and adult-friendly.

Cafe Tiramisu

We sat ourselves and were handed menus. Choices consisted of a few appetizers and paninis, pizzas and pastas. Mack decided to order the panini al bistecca ($10.75), with grilled shaved beef with peppercorn havarti cheese, caramelized onions, lettuce, tomato and peppercorn mustard, as well as a blueberry brain boost smoothie ($5.50). I opted for the pasta al pesto ($11.95), with garlic, olive oil, pesto and pine nuts tossed with fresh herbs and cheese, as it’s not often, because of Mack’s allergy, that I get to enjoy pine nuts.

Mack’s smoothie arrived first, a tart and sweet blend with a great consistency. I’d say it was better than the similar concoctions we had at Fresh Healthy Cafe, which is apparently known for their drinks.

Blueberry brain boost smoothie

Our dishes were delivered shortly after. Mack’s salad was disproportionately sized – but then again, perhaps it was meant to be child-friendly (I should say that Mack, ever the greens-hater, found the portion to be just perfect for him). He enjoyed the pressed sandwich (especially the peppercorn mustard) but the beef could have been sliced thinner.

Panini al bistecca

My pasta was served with some garlic bread that was a bit too charred for my liking, but the pasta itself was great. Good flavour, and there was a decent sprinkling of pine nuts – I wasn’t let down.

Pasta al pesto

With the natural light and modern fixtures, the surroundings at Cafe Tiramisu helped make for a very pleasant lunch. The solid menu offerings and good service rounded out the experience, so I wouldn’t hesitate to return – with or without a child in tow.

Cafe Tiramisu
10750 – 124 Street
(780) 452-3393
Monday 9am-3pm, Tuesday-Thursday 8am-9pm, Friday 8am-11pm, Saturday 9am-10pm, closed Sundays

A Tour of Malaysian Cuisine: East

Food often tells a story, and this wasn’t more true than at East, one of the newest restaurant offerings in Edmonton. East opened in December, and comes to us courtesy of Richard Lim, whose also owns L’Azia and Wildflower Grill.

East

Richard immigrated to Canada from Malaysia in 1969. Since then, he’s amassed decades of experience in the field of hospitality, but even with three successful establishments under his belt, he still had yet to bring the flavours of his childhood to the city.

In 2005, Richard returned to Malaysia for the first time in thirty-two years. He really enjoyed reconnecting with his roots and exploring old haunts after such a long period of absence, and being a restauranteur, was especially inspired by the food. The seed had been planted.

In 2009, Richard began thinking more seriously about a Malaysian-centred venture. His trip on this occasion was for research purposes – he toured markets and tasted dishes for inspiration – what would he like to serve in Edmonton? Richard said that the final menu actually took a year to finalize.

Interior

Two weeks ago, Mack and I joined a group of food writers for a tasting of some of those dishes, preceding a grand opening that took place at the end of February. I can’t describe the night better than to say it was an assault of food. Dishes arrived rapid-fire from the kitchen, their overwhelming flurry matching Richard’s obvious enthusiasm and pride in East. We sampled more than a dozen of the menu’s appetizers, mains and desserts, and were fortunate to have both Richard and Executive Chef Nathin Bye on hand to explain them.

Nathin Bye and the Lims

Mack’s favourite appetizer, not surprisingly, was the spring rolls, enhanced with five-spice pork and the crunch of jicama. My soft spot for the roti canai and accompanying curry sauce was obvious – I wouldn’t let the servers take the dish away, try as they might. The roti were chewy and pliable, and eaten with the slightly sweet curry sauce, was the perfect way to start the meal.

Spring rolls and curry puffs

Roti Canai

Our entrees began with several modernized Chinese-Malaysian dishes. The crowd favourite this round was the Alor Street chili mussels (Alor being one of the main street food thoroughfares in Kuala Lumpur). The sweet-spicy glaze complemented the mussels well.

Alor Street chili mussels

Another signature was butter prawns, wok fried and topped with egg floss. It was a bit like having dessert for dinner, as the flaky floss reminded me of crushed up egg rolls.

Butter prawns

The fried crispy sweet and sour pork belly was another show stopper, a decadent version of a dish my Mum makes at home for special occasions. Tham’s family tofu was something I’d never had before – pressed spinach tofu paired with a pumpkin sauce. It had great earthy flavours and as with the previous two dishes, it again exemplified Richard’s view that Malaysian cuisine is “slightly sweet.”

Sweet and sour pork belly

Tham’s family tofu

We then moved into some more pure Malaysian dishes that Richard said the surrounding Malaysian community had embraced, telling him that they were reminded of home. One great example was their beef rendang stew, which had a nice front heat, with tender and slightly fatty meat.

Beef rendang

The KL Hokkein noodle was a dish close to Richard’s heart. After a night of drinking, it was his go-to street eat: Chinese wheat noodles stir-fried with pork, squid, prawns, vegetables and a dark soy sauce. Richard admitted it was a drier, leaner version than the one he ate back in KL, as he removed the key ingredient of pork fat. But Mack in particular still enjoyed it, loving the sauce and the variety of textures.

KL Hokkein noodle

All of the dishes we sampled that night were fairly mild, though Mack and I were expecting otherwise. Richard said that is actually how he prefers it, though I can imagine a request could be made to the kitchen to kick it up a few notches.

Dessert was momochacha and a black glutinous rice. The former, made with sweet potato, was very similar to those I’ve had made by Malaysian family friends. The latter had good texture from the grains, and an interesting twist with the inclusion of orange zest.

Momochacha and black glutinous rice

East is very much a family affair. Richard and his wife are not only introducing Edmontonians to a cuisine not widely available in the city, but they are also passing along their knowledge to a new generation of chefs, including Nathin, who himself comes from a Prairie Ukrainian background. I am already looking forward to my next visit out East, with my own family in tow!

East
16049 97 Street
(780) 457-8833
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Monday-Thursday 4:30-11pm, Friday 4:30-midnight; Weekends: Saturday 11am-midnight, Sundays and Holidays 11am-1opm

Pho in the ‘Park: Taste of Vietnam

On Family Day, Mack and I made plans to have lunch with Grandma Male. We were hoping to find an independent eatery in Sherwood Park so we could stay close to her neighbourhood, but it proved to be more difficult than one would think. Many of the restaurants were either closed on Mondays or on statutory holidays. Although we did end up finding a place that could accommodate us, it’s a reality that Sherwood Park isn’t exactly a diner’s paradise. With the interest in independent restaurants increasing in Edmonton, with some exception (Cafe Haven and Cafe de Ville come to mind), this trend hasn’t quite hit Sherwood Park yet. Given the average income level in the area, I would think there would be plenty of room for more interesting and unique options, but perhaps the appetite there is still quite conservative?

At any rate, we ended up at A Taste of Vietnam. It turned out Grandma Male had already been there once, albeit years ago, and prior to their renovation. Located in a strip mall on Broadmoor Boulevard, it looks like it had been updated recently. It was sleek and modern inside, with brown panelling, tasteful art on the walls and granite tables. It was also fairly busy inside, with a number of pairs and families taking advantage of the holiday.

To start, we shared an order of green onion cakes ($6.95 for 2). Curiously, they weren’t cut in half, even though it was evident there were more than two of us at the table. Although they were crispy, they weren’t seasoned very well – the accompanying sweet chilli sauce was necessary to add flavour.

Green onion cakes

Mack ordered what I think will become his Vietnamese standby, the bun bo hue ($9.95). It definitely wasn’t as visually pleasing as other spicy noodle soups we’ve come across, but Mack appreciated the heat. He also noted that the kitchen was quite generous with the beef and pork provision.

Bun bo hue

I opted for their special beef noodle soup ($9.95), which, unlike at most Chinatown outlets, only contained a pedestrian selection of meat: medium rare beef, well done beef and beef balls. Similar to Mack’s dish, my bowl contained a great deal of meat. The beef balls were tasty, but the medium and rare done beef bordered on dry and chewy. I also wished the broth had been a little more fragrant.

Special beef noodle soup

Mack’s grandma chose the wor wonton soup ($9.95 for small). She liked that the vegetables were still crisp, and enjoyed the broth.

Wor wonton soup

The prices at Taste of Vietnam were much steeper than what I’m used to paying, but then again, we weren’t in Chinatown anymore! Though it wouldn’t be at the top of my list of favourite pho in the city, at least it adds another family-owned option in the ‘Park. It’s one I might return to but only if I were in the neighbourhood to begin with.

A Taste of Vietnam
56, 975 Broadmoor Blvd, Sherwood Park
(780) 416-4436
Monday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm, closed Sundays

Calgary Steak-Out: CHARCUT

Like many other Canadians, I was excited when the popular American television franchise Top Chef finally started filming a Canadian version. I think we need to develop our own host of culinary celebrities to celebrate home grown talent, and this platform could help do just that. The results thankfully improved with time, and hopefully with its second season will continue to do so.

In spite of the show’s wavering quality, however, as a Prairie-dweller, it was a no-brainer to cheer for Calgary-based Connie DeSousa, who was also one of the few female competitors. Her drive, obsessive attention to detail and her mad butchery skills made her a fan favourite, qualities that I hoped would take her to the end. Connie ended up placing a respectable third, though in many respects, it was as good as first prize. The exposure to an audience of Food Network devotees was invaluable to Connie’s reputation as a chef, and on a wider level, in developing CHARCUT’s brand. Though we’d been to CHARCUT prior Top Chef Canada’s debut, it almost seems like a different restaurant today, enlivened now with that touch of celebrity. I’m sure it also helps that CHARCUT has since expanded their initiatives to include the unique alley burger, food truck and pop-up series.

Needless to say, Mack and I were really looking forward to our second full CHARCUT experience on the third leg of the YYC Steak tour. You can also imagine our delight when we found out we would not only be eating Connie’s food, but would be treated to a private demo, too.

Our group was whisked upstairs to CHARCUT’s fairly spacious prep kitchen for a lesson on blood sausage. There, Connie and her partner John Jackson showed us how to make the delicacy. They started with a panade of white bread and milk, added ground pork, fat back, apple, then the main ingredient, blood. The splatter-free counter was a testament to Connie and John’s skills, who neatly transferred the mixture to a plastic bag to be hand-piped into sausage casings. It was clear the pair had a wonderful rapport with one another, and this translated wonderfully into a teaching capacity – I could see this translating to a larger stage quite easily.

Straining the blood

In goes the blood

Into the casing

Connie also showed us how to trim a bison heart, which would comprise the steak that evening. For most of us, it would be our first time sampling this type of offal.

Trimming the heart

The entire session felt a bit surreal to both Mack and I. Being the Top Chef junkies that we are, we couldn’t help thinking, “It’s Connie!!!” the entire time. We’re huge dorks, I know.

Our view of the kitchen

At our chef’s table seats

We eventually made our way to the chef’s table at the rear of the restaurant so our dinner could be prepared. While we waited for the mains, we were served CHARCUT’s take on ham and cheese: the most exquisite house made pig’s head mortadella, paired with an oozing baked raclette that was good enough to bathe in. Notable also was the beer pairing – Naramata Nut Brown Ale, which, as a non-beer drinker, I found not only tolerable, but enjoyable.

Mortadella, brassica mustard and baked raclette

Naramata Nut Brown Ale

The blood sausage was first, served up with fried eggs – possibly the most unique sausage and eggs I’d ever had. The sausage resembled ground meat more than anything else, having burst out of its casing. It also tasted very similar, albeit with a tinge of iron. Mack and I both agreed that there was nothing to be afraid of, though we weren’t sure it was something we would necessarily seek out.

Blood sausage and eggs

The finale was the bison heart, rustically presented on a wooden board, liberally garnished with chimichurri and arugula, complete with a “stake” knife. The meat, which had been marinated for eight hours in olive oil and red wine vinegar, was like a cross between a flat iron steak and liver – tender consistency, with again a tinge of iron. Mack went all out for the side of CHARCUT’s signature poutine, with potatoes fried in duck fat and curds topped with a chicken-fat gravy. Heart-stoppingly good.

Bison heart and duck fat poutine

Though each of our experiences on the steak tour were unique, because of our soft spot for Connie, I think our stop at CHARCUT was the most memorable.

Just in time for the season two premiere of Top Chef Canada on March 12, 2012, Chef Connie DeSousa will be in Edmonton presenting a cooking demo at 1pm and 3pm on March 11 at Appliances Unlimited (6553-99th Street).

Calgary Steak-Out: Anju

It was a pleasant surprise to find an Edmonton ex-pat at the helm of Anju, the second stop on our steak tour. Roy Oh moved to Calgary from Edmonton nine years ago after completing his study in visual communications, with the hopes of furthering his career. But he started to find that he was drawn not to the studio, but to the kitchen. While Oh isn’t formally trained in the culinary arts, he grew up learning to cook, and as a proud second generation Korean-Canadian, food was a way to connect with his roots.

Go, Edmonton!

In 2008, Oh and his wife opened Anju in a refurbished house on the western edge of downtown Calgary. Their take on Korean cuisine is fresh and modern, inspired by the fact that he has a foot in two cultures. As a result, he doesn’t view “fusion” in a negative way; in fact, he embraces it as the outcome of living as a hyphenated Korean-Canadian. And Calgary is taking note as well – Anju won the award for “best small plates” from Avenue Calgary last year.

Anju translates to “tapas or a dish eaten with alcohol” – at our tasting, we learned first hand about this philosophy as our group was introduced to soju. Distilled from rice instead of wheat, soju is the Korean equivalent of vodka. It was quite smooth, and much less abrasive than vodka, though we were also provided with Sprite and aloe juice if any of us needed to take the edge off.

To enjoy with the soju, we were served a number of plates to be shared around the table, many highlighting Oh’s fusion philosophy. Malpec oysters were accompanied by a kimchi mignonette, which enhanced each bite with additional texture and a bit of heat. Braised oxtail tortellini were dressed with soy, grana padano and truffle oil – incredibly fragrant, with scallions providing a fresh pop. Anju’s version of crispy tofu was perfectly fried on the outside but silky on the inside, highlighted with sauteed kimchi and a citrus aioli.

Malpec oysters with a kimchi mignonette

Braised oxtail tortellini

Crispy tofu

Then came the chicken wings. Our Calgarian tablemates had been vocal in expressing their hopes that one of Anju’s signature dishes would be served that night, so naturally, a cheer erupted when they appeared at our table. Sunworks chicken had been lightly fried, then tossed with a potent Korean hot sauce. The wings had a nice crunch, and the sauce was definitely uncensored – we joked that it was the culinary equivalent to Botox, a natural way to plumper lips.

Chicken wings

But this was the steak tour after all, so Anju’s grand finale was a rib eye that had been marinated in a simple mixture of soy sauce, sesame oil, lime, garlic, ginger and sugar. The result was tender meat that had a slightly sweet finish. And Anju’s twist on potatoes? Roasted fingerling potatoes were accompanied by a tangy sesame aioli.

Marinated rib eye with fingerling potatoes

It was great to experience Anju’s take on steak and Korean-influenced cuisine as a whole – more than any of the other meals that weekend, it felt like the most personal. I loved that Oh has been able to merge Prairie inspirations with culinary traditions that honour his heritage. Perhaps we could convince him to move back to Edmonton one day, too.

Anju
507 – 10 Street SW, Calgary
(403) 532-9419

To T.O.: The Rest

When I look back at our Toronto trip, it seemed like all we did was eat! So though I’ve already recapped some of the best meals during our visit, I wanted to capture all of the other great restaurants and food-related experiences we had that week.

Crown Princess

For whatever reason, I was really intent on having dim sum in Toronto. Though Chinatown or Markham might have been the ideal neighbourhoods to locate a suitable restaurant, because of our activities to follow brunch that day, Amanda and I tried to stick to the downtown area. After some digging on Chowhound, we decided on Crown Princess.

Is this just the lobby?

While we didn’t expect it to be busy on a random Tuesday morning, we didn’t anticipate having the restaurant to ourselves either. It was all the more odd because Crown Princess is perhaps the most sumptuous Asian restaurant I’ve ever dined in – from the plush velvet chairs, chandeliers and marble wall coverings to the embroidered tablecloths and patterned china, it felt like we were in store for a very lavish private tasting.

Interior

Not your typical Chinese teapot

Prices were on the high side ($3-6), but not outrageous. Between the two of us, we decided to share four plates. My favourite was the har gao, easily some of the best dumplings I’ve had in some time – the shrimp was plump, and the wrapper was nice and thick. The rice noodle roll was also quite good – the greens added some dimension to the dish, while the pork inside had been diced with uniform consistency – it was clear that these dishes had been made with care.

Har gao

Rice noodle roll

The barbecue pork buns were great as well, with springy, fresh dough. The final dish was interesting, though the English translation of “fried shrimp” probably needed more detail – we expected battered shrimp, but instead, were presented with shrimp and fruit in a cream sauce wrapped and fried.

BBQ pork buns

Fried shrimp

Service was attentive (difficult not to be for the only table in the restaurant), and it was enjoyable for a light lunch. I’m sure the experience as a whole would have been much different had we been amongst other diners though.

LCBO

Ontario still hasn’t moved to a private liquor retailing system, and I’m sure there are pros and cons about this. Walking through an LCBO (Liquor Control Board of Ontario) store, however, there seemed to be one big advantage to having a provincially-controlled chain: better marketing of homegrown products.

Go local

It was great to see shelves of Ontario product proudly displayed under a “go local” banner. While many liquor stores in Edmonton do make it easy to locate Canadian wines, this seemed to be one step further.

Local beer

Nathan Phillips Square Farmers’ Market

Farmers’ markets in Edmonton are confined to late afternoon, evening and weekend hours. However, the trend in other large Canadian municipalities seems to be opening up markets during the day, especially in high density areas. Calgary has experimented with their Downtown Green Market on Stephen Avenue, and in Toronto, we encountered a vibrant, well-stocked farmers’ market in front of their City Hall in Nathan Phillips Square.

Nathan Phillips Square

Farmers’ market

In the shadow of City Hall

It wasn’t ideal conditions for a farmers’ market – although tents sheltered the vegetables from the sun, nothing could stop them from wilting in the +40 degree humidity. The heat just radiated from the pavement, and on a day like that, the shade from trees would have been a welcome respite.

Zucchini blossoms

Beans

Berries

Asparagus

Corn

Basil

Meat truck

A hive!

Still, it was great to see so many people out picking up fresh produce on their lunch break, all while enjoying live entertainment.

Fresh Wednesdays

Amanda and I had a lunch reservation that afternoon, but I couldn’t resist buying a basket of raspberries in an effort to cool off. It was definitely handy to have the water truck on-site so we could wash the berries!

Water truck!

Berries

Rosedale Diner and Nadege

While in Toronto, I was able to meet up with Maria for lunch one day. Originally from Sarnia, she had been living in Edmonton for the past few years, but returned to Toronto for a work contract. She steered us to Rosedale Diner, a charming restaurant in Summer Hill.

The menu was made up of comforting dishes, and as soon as I saw the duck confit poutine ($17) on the menu, I knew I would pass up their prix fixe Summerlicious courses. I was disappointed that the Quebec cheese curds didn’t squeak, and that the fries were over-dressed, given they were saturated by the time I started to dig in, but I enjoyed the duck. Maria had ordered the lamb burger and surprisingly, was asked how she wanted it cooked!

Duck confit poutine

Lamb burger

The service was slow (and probably seemed even more so to us because we made the mistake of choosing to sit by the window on the hottest day of the year), but I was glad Maria had chosen Rosedale in part for its location.

After lunch, we wandered over to a quaint row of specialty shops – a high-end grocer, a butcher, a bakery, and a dessert shop. Nadege specializes in the venerable macaron, and though I was beyond full, I had to try one.

Beautiful works of art (love the mini macarons on the Marie Antoinette!)

I bought a salted caramel macaron ($2.10), and while the salty-sweet flavour was spot on, the meringue shell was not – it crumbled almost immediately when I bit into it.

Macarons

Smoke’s Poutinerie

My sampling of poutine in Toronto wasn’t confined only to Summer Hill. After taking in Wishful Drinking at the Royal Alexandra Theatre, Mack and I wandered over, hungry, to Smoke’s Poutinerie.

I ordered the Montreal poutine (shaved Montreal smoked meat, dill pickle, mustard, $6.99), to see how it would stack up against my favourite dish at La Poutine. I think Edmonton wins this round – I again encountered cheese curds that didn’t squeak in the least – it had to be more than coincidence at this point, right? I also preferred the meat diced – easier to ensure a bit of the smoky meat in every bite.

Montreal poutine

Mack’s Hogtown poutine ($6.99), with double-smoked bacon, Italian sausage, sautéed mushrooms and caramalized onions was much better, consistency-wise.

Hogtown poutine

Le Petit Dejeuner

When travelling, Mack and I always try to seek out a local diner for brunch. On this occasion, it was a little more difficult – because of time constraints, we had to find one within walking distance of our hotel, as we had to depart for the airport in the early afternoon hours.

Le Petit Dejeuner was our destination, and it seemed to be the right choice as a line-up formed outside the restaurant soon after we were seated. The interior was a bit of a mash-up, with warm wall colours that clashed with the aquamarine vinyl booths, but for brunch, the disharmony worked.

Interior

I ordered Gal, two eggs, toast, potato rosti, apple coleslaw and bacon ($9.75). The scrambled eggs were particularly creamy, and I loved the crunchy rosti, which would have been perfect with just a little more salt. Mack also enjoyed his eggs benedict with peameal bacon ($12.95) well enough.

The Hungry Gal

Eggs benedict with peameal bacon

Because we saw it on the menu, we had to try their liege waffle as well, made with red fife wheat. It was served cold, which we weren’t used to (Eva Sweet had made sure of that), but it was dense and crunchy with pearl sugar throughout.

Liege waffle

In all, I had a great time in Toronto. And I’m happy to say, I’ll be back there very soon – next week, in fact, for a work conference. I’m already looking forward to the food!

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