Calgary Birthday Round-up: The Big Cheese, Model Milk, Blue Star Diner and Una Pizza

Back in June, well-timed with my birthday, Mack and I took a mini-break in Calgary. I relish any opportunity to further explore their culinary scene (something impossible for visitors to keep up with), but I think we made a fair dent that weekend.

The Big Cheese Poutinerie

The Big Cheese Poutinerie was voted “best poutine” in Calgary in the recent FFWD poll, so we thought it was worth checking out.

The Big Cheese Poutinerie

They had quite a few more options than La Poutine, many with an intense variety of topping options, such as mac and cheese, Scottish curry and corn dogs. We ordered the most basic traditional (just curds and gravy) and the Notorious P.I.G. (Carolina pulled pork, double smoked bacon and
Italian sausage).

We brought our poutine boxes to their adorable backyard patio, fenced in and graced with trees, and dug in.

Mack loves poutine!

The fries weren’t as crispy as we would have liked, and the Quebec curds didn’t squeak, but the Notorious P.I.G. was still darn tasty (and our favourite of the two). I liked the sweetness from the bacon, which helped offset the rest of the meat.

Traditional

Notorious P.I.G.

Model Milk

We’d heard some great things about Model Milk, which at the time, seemed like Calgary’s “it” restaurant. As a result, we were really looking forward to try their spin on Southern comfort food.

Look for the cow!

We loved the name upon hearing its origins – Model Milk is an homage to the building’s history as Model Dairy. Some of the plant’s fixtures, such as the viewing window into the bottling area, were preserved in the conversion to a restaurant. As a result, the dining room presents as a gorgeous marriage of the industrial with rustic. The pendant lights above were a lovely touch above our table, but the best seat in the house was undoubtedly at the chef’s table beneath a skylight.

Interior

Chef’s table

Q Water (a water filtration system sold as an alternative to imported bottled water) seems to be all the rage, but the administration of it (i.e., the cost) varies greatly between restaurants, to the point where it’s entirely up to the diner to clarify. I was reminded of this at Model Milk, when we accidentally ended up with pricey Q Water because I didn’t ask when given the choice between “sparkling” and “still”. The tab? $3 a person for water.

Q Water

Their menus had similar numbered iterations to what we were familiar with at Three Boars, and similarly, although there were a few vegetarian options to choose from, the chefs appeared to like all incarnations of meat.

The veal croquette starters ($12) were crispy without being oily, and we loved the texture and the interplay of sweet and spicy in the apple chili glaze.

Veal croquettes

My dish, named pig ($28), was quite the showstopper. Aptly put, tenderloin was wrapped in sausage then wrapped in bacon, and presented so moist and tender that it literally fell to pieces when sliced. Even more a compliment to the chef, it didn’t leave me with a fatty mouth feel. I also enjoyed the refreshing sides of crushed edamame and mint and a pea, celery and apple salad.

Pig

Mack liked his halibut cheeks ($27), prepared with a crunchy potato crust and a creamy tartar sauce. The underlay of potatoes were a bit of a hit and miss – some were well cooked, while others were hard and glassy.

Halibut

Given the menu changes so frequently, I’d be hard pressed to say what’s for dinner at Model Milk today, but based on our experience, I’d love to be surprised on our next visit!

Blue Star Diner

Opened by the same folks behind Dairy Lane, we knew we would be in good hands at Blue Star Diner, a relatively new restaurant in the quaint community of Bridgeland.

The crowd outside told us we were in the right place, and though it was a cold and drizzly out, we didn’t mind the half hour wait, tempered by the offer of hot coffee to sip.

A typical Calgary brunch line-up

Once inside, we marvelled at the charming interior – baby blue paint, crisp glass display shelves, funky chalkboard walls, and perhaps my favourite accent – framed photos of the farmers Dairy Lane sources from.

Interior

Local was definitely all over the menu as well – I really appreciated that the names of producers were highlighted prominently. The newest producer to join the ranks, Broek Farms, was even profiled on a tabletop card.

The servers were friendly and efficient, though Mack’s one small complaint was that the coffee refills petered out after our plates were delivered (his litmus test for brunch service). But in a way, the food more than made up for that minor misstep. My order of stuffed French toast ($12.75) was one of the best brunch dishes I had in recent memory, an irresistible combination of Sylvan Star gruyere, mushrooms, herbs and hollandaise.

Stuffed French toast

Mack’s Broek pulled pork eggs benedict ($15) featured perfectly soft poached eggs, and pork that kicked back and complemented the tangy hollandaise.

Pulled pork eggs benedict

Though I have quite a few diner favourites in Calgary, Blue Star Diner is now hovering near the top. It most definitely deserves another visit the next time we’re in the city.

Una Pizza + Wine

We had enjoyed our meal at Ox & Angela earlier this year, so wanted to try its brother establishment with an equally good reputation, Una Pizza.

At 5:30pm on a Sunday, it was already hopping, and we snagged just about the last of the open seats. We elected to sit outside to drink in the rays, given it was the only sunny break that entire weekend. With its vantage of 17 Avenue however, it also made a great people watching spot.

On the patio

Una Pizza is actually open until 1am every day, quite a feat and commitment by the owners to ensure quality late night dining exists in Calgary. The menu offered quite a range of non-pizza dishes, many with a Spanish flair, but we stuck with the pizza side of things.

Two-tiered pizza

I chose the mushroom pizza ($20), layered with roasted criminis, smoked mozzarella, truffle oil and arugula. I could taste the time taken to cook down the mushrooms, and the flavour combination was good enough to inspire me to replicate it at home.

Mushroom pizza

Mack’s red pizza to my white featured san marzano tomato sauce, prosciutto, provolone and arugula ($18). He noted the crust was much different than Edmonton’s go-to independent pizza joint, Famoso, firmer, crispier and not wood fired. That day, it really hit the spot.

Prosciutto pizza

We loved the vibe of Una – fun and vibrant, it reminded us of Tres Carnales. Though the food took a little longer than expected (we had ordered just after the small party next to us, but by the time our food arrived, they had already finished their meal), Una is the type of place where you linger over a glass of wine and catch up. We’ll be back.

A much belated thanks to Mack for a great birthday weekend!

Date Night: 104 St Grill and Edmonton Opera’s Storm the Stage

Since Ric’s Grill became 104 St Grill earlier this fall, Mack and I have been meaning to give this new incarnation a try. I had signed up for the electronic mailing list early on, which entitled me to a $60 gift certificate, really giving us no better excuse to have dinner there. We finally had the chance to do so on Saturday.

We arrived just after it opened, and were seated in a booth towards the back. What struck us most at first was how the interior remained remarkably unchanged. Sure, the bar area was a little more open, but the rest of the space retained its formality. I guess it was most surprising because we had heard that the location was originally in talks to become Soda Jerks, but when that didn’t pan out, I assumed the final plan for 104 St Grill would still based on a more casual upscale model, instead of nominal adjustments.

Interior

The menu, however, in both dish selection and price really communicated that not much had changed at all. Entrees, ranging from $17-29 were very traditional plates, and really didn’t excite or interest us. We instead chose to share several of the starters.

The best of the four appetizers was no doubt the poutine ($11), though not named as such on the menu. The potatoes was prepared well, flecked with crunchy bits of bacon.

“Poutine”

The risotto ($12) was quite a generously sized appetizer, served with an (overdressed) side salad. Again, the bacon popped, and the risotto was creamy enough, but not exceptional.

Risotto

The carrot and ginger daily soup ($6) had a great texture, smooth but with some body, though I was hoping for a little more zing. The order of Brussels sprouts ($10) was probably enough for four people, but could have probably used a bit more of the brown butter sauce.

Carrot and ginger soup

Brussels sprouts

Although service was professional and attentive (we were familiar with the server from The Copper Pot, which used to be in the same family of restaurants), 104 St Grill just doesn’t offer a menu that would invite us to return on a regular basis. Only time will tell if the rebranding will result in success, but for us, it isn’t the type of restaurant we would frequent in the neighbourhood.

After dinner, Mack and I headed to the Jubilee Auditorium for Edmonton Opera’s annual Storm the Stage party. Though we’ve attended a few of Edmonton Opera’s productions in the past, I will admit that it is an art form that hasn’t appealed to us as strongly as others. That said, we have enjoyed Mercury Opera’s attempts to make opera more successful (with another, Fiamma, coming up on October 26, 2012), and was curious about Edmonton Opera’s attempts at trying to broaden their audience.

Aida set

I’d read that Storm the Stage was literally that – an opportunity to have party on the set. It seemed like a great behind the scenes peek, though we weren’t really sure what to expect.

Treats from Duchess

Well, that’s not entirely true – I suppose we anticipated some opera-related content, especially given the audience may not often frequent opera productions. As a result, the highlight of the evening for me was the two short performances by two members of the Edmonton Opera chorus.

Edmonton Opera chorus members

Given we were on the gorgeous set of Aida, in the shadow of an imposing sphinx, it really would have been neat to have a tour of sorts, learning how the set designer came up with his ideas and executed them (I did want to run up and touch the “statues”). It seemed like a missed opportunity to connect the audience with the show in a more direct way.

F & M

That said, the evening was enjoyable enough, with performances by alternative folk trio F & M and the always energetic and engaging Mitchmatic. Thread Hill also put on a fashion show, utilizing the tiered stage as a visually interesting runway.

Mitchmatic

Thread Hill fashion show

Mack mentioned that the evening could have been improved with a host to unify the performances. It was a little strange that both F & M and Mitchmatic had to introduce themselves, while the fashion show and opera performance just seemed to spontaneously begin.

In all, it was an interesting experience, though one that could have used more opera.

104 St Grill
10190 104 Street
(780) 429-4333

Edmonton Opera

Date Night: El Rancho and Retro Drive-In

Mack and I love taking in a dinner and a movie as much as the next couple, but there are so many other interesting things to do in Edmonton. “Date Night” will be a semi-regular series highlighting some of these ideas.

Funny enough, the first of this series features the aforementioned dinner and a movie format, but with a bit of a twist. Last Friday, we headed toward the Alberta Avenue neighbourhood for dinner. Though our original intention was to dine at Cafe Amore, the restaurant was closed for a private function, so we ended up at El Rancho (11810 87 Street).

It has been some time since I’ve been to the El Salvadorian establishment, and this was Mack’s first visit. Clearly, it hasn’t lost its popularity, as all the tables had been claimed by the time we finished our supper.

We shared the Antojitos Platter for two amigos ($16.95), and ordered two mixed pupusas ($2.75) on top of that. It was a great way to reacquaint myself with their dishes. Though the flautas (fried, rolled tortillas) and tacos were good, Mack and I both agreed that our favourite was the crispy enchiladas, topped with shredded chicken, a pickled slaw and a touch of tart salsa was a lovely combination of flavours.

Antojitos Platter

The pupusas were also a nice treat, if not only because it meant we could help ourselves to a bit more of the pickled cabbage to accent the savoury combination of mozzarella, fried beans and pork.

Pupusas

We had just enough room for dessert, and split a slice of tres leches cake ($5.95). Mack doesn’t usually like desserts, but loved this cake, bursting with milky goodness and not all that sweet. The whipped cream was an indulgent finish.

Tres Leches

Service was friendly, and fast (the kitchen had been slow in my previous experiences). Even better, our entire meal came in at around $30 – a fantastic value for the variety and exceptional food quality.

After dinner, we headed over to the Alberta Avenue Community Hall, who was hosting a retro drive-in that night. Though Mack and I are far from being car people, there’s something about a drive-in that appeals to me. I think it might have to do with the fact that my family lived pretty close to the Stardust Twin Drive-In (50th Street and Whitemud Drive), but I didn’t get to go before it was shut and torn down in the late 1990s.

Drive in on the Ave!

This article from Lawrence Herzog states that Edmonton’s first drive-in theatre opened in 1949. The Starlight Drive-in had room for 600 cars, and was so successful on its opening night it had to turn folks away! These outdoor theatres peaked in 1977, when Edmonton had ten drive-ins. But just two decades later, suburban growth and at-home entertainment led to the demise of drive-in theatres, the last screens at the Millwoods and Twin Drive-In shuttering in 1996.

So we jumped at the chance to relive a bit of nostalgia – for free! This community league-sponsored event was promoting safe, family fun, and was also a way for the neighbourhood to bring people out to Alberta Avenue after dark. They had set up a basic screen on the side of a neighbouring building, and had volunteers on hand to direct cars to make sure space in the lot was used efficiently. We bought some hot drinks from The Carrot and some candy from the concession stand and settled in for the movie.

The volunteers were too cute in their costumes

I was a little too giddy about the streaming of the film’s soundtrack on a radio station (I had no idea it was so cheap and easy to do this), while Mack enjoyed the retro pre-show advertisements screened before the feature presentation. Not only was there a rocket that flew over candy-dotted planets, but also a PSA warning audience members not to get frisky.

Warning all you young lovers out there

It almost didn’t matter at this point what the movie was, but Grease was an inspired choice, upbeat and easy to watch. To say the least, there was a lot of appreciative honking at the end of the night.

You’re the one that I want

Thanks again to the Community League for a successful screening! They indicated that this was their first annual drive-in, so you can look forward to checking it out next year!

El Rancho
11810 87 Street
(780) 471-4930

Alberta Avenue Community Hall (keep your eyes peeled on their website for next year’s flick!)
9210 118 Avenue

A Banh Mi Twist: Fresh Bubble Tea & Sandwich Bar

Last Tuesday was probably the worst day to dine out for lunch. The rain was coming down sideways, and needless to say, I was soaked by the time I reached my destination. Still, after my first lunch at Fresh Bubble Tea & Sandwich Bar (10611 Kingsway Avenue), I have to say the food was worth the walk, showers and all.

Fresh

Having opened up about six months ago, the cafeteria-reminiscent Fresh tries to be true to its name, with a menu made up of banh mi sandwiches and fresh fruit bubble tea drinks. Fresh is definitely more health-conscious than the highly-visible McDonald’s across the street, but suffers a bit in terms of prominence. Tucked on the first floor of the non-descript Kingsway Professional Building, it’d be easy to overlook Fresh (especially with all of the current construction!).

As I mentioned, their menu focuses on wholesome items, but is far from extensive. For this, I applaud them – usually, restaurants try to do too much, instead of concentrating on doing a small number of items well. Fresh only offers four banh mi options (pork, chicken, beef, tofu), and a significantly smaller bubble tea menu when compared with other cafes.

Given the rainstorm, I opted only for a beef banh mi with peanut satay sauce ($6.49). All sandwiches are topped with cheese, house mayo, cucumber, onions, lettuce, cilantro, pickled carrots and daikon – not exactly your conventional banh mi, but close enough to be familiar. The fusion may also appeal to diners who are more comfortable with western-style sandwiches, and help bridge them towards the traditional.

Beef banh mi

The sandwich was made fresh, the meat fried up on the flattop upon order. It arrived neatly wrapped in parchment paper. The bread was fresh, crispy on the outside but soft and chewy on the inside, while the filling was substantial. The vegetables had been packed in with a generous hand, ensuring a textured, crunchy layer with every bite, but the star really was the peanut sauce-laced meat. It added a depth I don’t typically associate with banh mi, even if it was much less intense than other satay sauces I’ve encountered.

Yum

Based on this experience, I would have no hesitation returning to Fresh, and would hope to add a bubble tea to my order next time!

Fresh Bubble Tea & Sandwich Bar
10611 Kingsway Ave
(587) 520-8310

Summer Menu Launch at Murrieta’s

Murrieta’s is one of those restaurants that is easily overlooked. Perhaps it can be attributed to its non-descript location on Whyte (without a flashy patio or sidewalk real estate), or more likely, its resemblance to other upscale casual restaurants like Joey’s. Well, Murrieta’s (with locations in Calgary and Canmore as well) is trying to shed that image, having hired Chef Shand Chartrand to revamp the menu, and hopefully, the brand itself.

Murrieta’s

Chef Chartrand first splashed onto the Edmonton food scene as the Executive Chef of L2, the Fantasyland Grill’s attempt at reinvigorating a dated establishment. By all accounts, he did a wonderful job, putting L2 on the map, and showed that Bourbon Street wasn’t the only dining destination at the mall. So when it was announced in February that he was shifting to Murrieta’s, it was a bit of a coup for them to have landed a chef with such a reputation (General Manager Courtney Campbell told us that once he took a look at Chef Chartrand’s resume, he literally chased him down the street to call him back). Two weeks ago, I was fortunate to be invited as a guest to Murrieta’s summer menu launch (thanks, Karlynn, for thinking of me!).

Val and Gail demonstrate what it’s like to eat with food bloggers

Chef Chartrand took his time in developing his first menu, speaking with suppliers and choosing a select few local producers, such as MoNa and Mighty Trio Organics, to highlight. That said, in introducing the menu, it was clear maintaining value-driven dishes was important, as was the need to cater to their customers with recognizable dishes. Chef Chartrand did say seafood sustainability was of particular importance to him, and as a result, the four types of fish that appear on the menu were selected based on that criteria (including an Alberta pickerel). I would hope that for future menus the names of local producers are more prominent, however – short of asking the server, that information was not readily at hand.

Chef Chartrand presents his menu

While the meal wasn’t intended to be eaten family-style, it quickly devolved into this, as plates circled around our table. We were permitted to order what pleased us, and someone suggested we try all of the appetizers – yes, all ten of them. My favourite was the tempura prawns ($14), wrapped in a light and crispy batter, and served with coconut jelly, pickled ginger and sachimi aioli. The deep fried goat cheese ($14) also shouldn’t be missed, still spreadable but accented with a nice crust, accompanied by local crackers and orange brandy sauce.

Tempura prawns

Deep fried goat cheese

Our table was a bit more sensible when it came to entrees, ordering just one a piece, but there was still a fair amount of plate-passing on this round as well. Without question, Chef Chartrand knows how to make fish sing – the pan-seared pickerel ($32) was perfectly cooked, and the side of béarnaise sauce on that rainy evening provided the comfort I was looking for. I probably could have done with some more side vegetables and without the wilting pea tendrils, but it is a dish I would order again.

Pan-seared pickerel with béarnaise sauce

Two other exceptional dishes I had the opportunity to taste were the lamb duo ($39) and the ancho glazed veal shank ($31). Although the appetizer lamb meatballs were imbued with a gamey flavour, the half lamb rack I tried had none of that, cooked to a moist medium rare.

Lamb duo of roasted half rack and merguez sausage

The veal was similarly moist and fork tender. It was without a doubt the largest serving of meat on the menu, and even featured a bit of bone marrow. Many around the table agreed that this was the best dish of the night.

Ancho glazed veal shank

Dessert unfortunately didn’t leave us on a high note, though the presentation was certainly memorable. Several of us ordered the daily crème brule ($9), which was caramelized tableside. After the dishes were delivered, alcohol was sprayed on top, then ignited for a showy blue flame. The white chocolate custard was okay, but I would have preferred a warmer custard temperature. We were also disappointed that the promised fresh-baked cookie wasn’t available to accompany the dish.

White chocolate crème brule

Having nothing to do with the food, but being a part of the experience that night was geeking out and asking to have a photo taken with former Oiler Craig Simpson. He was there as a wine rep for Murrieta’s Well winery (their blended white wine, called The Whip, was delectable – I had two glasses easy), but was more than happy to indulge a few fans.

With Judy, Craig and Karlynn

Thanks to Murrieta’s for the invitation – it was a lovely evening all around. I do think Chef Chartrand will help raise the restaurant’s profile, and with time, could transform it into a dining destination.

Murrieta’s
10612 82 Avenue
(780) 438-4100

Eat, Drink and Be Early: Toronto Highlights

I’m still amazed at how much we managed to pack in during our short trip to Toronto back in May. It helps, of course, that on one of the days, we were already up and at ‘em by 7 a.m. Vacation? What vacation?

Aunties and Uncles

Mack and I only had one occasion to take in brunch during the trip, and we probably picked the absolute worst day to do so: Mother’s Day. Getting a reservation was near impossible, so after some research, we chose the walk-in only Aunties and Uncles (voted best brunch by Blog T.O. last year).

By the time we arrived, the line was forty-five minutes strong. It is a small restaurant, but in the summer, the patio seating easily doubles the number of tables.

The Mothers’s Day line

We were fortunate to get an al fresco seat, shaded by a large umbrella. In the early afternoon warmth, it was outdoor dining that wasn’t yet possible in Edmonton at the time.

Mack on the patio!

The food was well worth the wait. My omelette was chock full of rapini, tomatoes and smoked gouda, and the hash was nicely charred. The sweet and springy sesame-crusted challah was no doubt the start of the plate, however. Mack equally enjoyed his breakfast burger, with a homemade beef patty topped with brie, bacon and (his favourite), a fried egg. It was served on the same challah.

Omelette

Breakfast burger

Service was better during the first half of our meal – our coffee refills dropped off after that. Even still, I’d recommend Aunties and Uncles for brunch in Toronto– those lines don’t lie!

Steamwhistle Brewery

Besides Alley Kat’s Charlie Flint, the only other beer consistently in our fridge is Steamwhistle. Made in Toronto, we didn’t have the time last year to visit the brewery, so we made sure to include it on our itinerary on this trip.

The Roundhouse

Located in a former locomotive roundhouse, the area surrounding the facility is beautiful, a swath of green in amongst high rises and skyscrapers. There was even a small playground behind the building, situated just beneath one of the country’s busiest roadways. We eventually learned that the City at one point had wanted to demolish the historic building to make way for a convention centre parkade. But Council had the foresight to prevent this, and compromised– the parkade was constructed underground, and the building reconstructed brick by brick over top.

Freeway/playground

We managed to get tickets for the day’s final tour. At $10 a pop, the ticket included not one, but two beers, plus a souvenir glass or bottle opener. While waiting for the tour, we explored the event space, which is used often for concerts, weddings, and food truck events. I loved its raw, industrial edge, and while I haven’t been inside the Mercer Tavern yet, I am hoping it has a similar vibe.

In the tasting room

I enjoyed hearing about the history of the brewery, including its origins. Steamwhistle was started by three fired guys from the Upper Canada Brewery after it was purchased by Molson (etched on the bottom of each bottle is “3FG”as a reminder of its beginnings).

Free sample

Steamwhistle brews all of its beers in this building, with a volume of approximately 81,000 bottles per day (interestingly enough, our tour guide wasn’t able to compare this with the volume produced by a multi-national company).

Bottling area

We also learned that they had an actual working steamwhistle, which two lucky tour-goers got to pull. The beer’s namesake relates to the steamwhistle sound they wanted to echo through the streets of downtown Toronto to trumpet quittin’ time.

Whee!

It’s always interesting to see how a product gets on the shelves, and it gives us a bit more appreciation for our fridge staple.

Centre Island

Mack and Amanda will tell you that it was a not-so-pleasant wakeup call the day we intended to check out the Toronto Islands. Because Mack had to be back downtown for his early afternoon conference start time, we knew our window of opportunity was short, and hence, planned to catch the first ferry out. Our walk from our hotel to the ferry stop was a frantic one, dodging commuters on busy streets and narrow sidewalks. But, our tale ends well and we reached the dock in time to catch our ferry.

On the ferry

The Toronto Islands, with its limited real estate, vehicle ban, and need for ferry access makes it a bit of an idyllic, if isolated, community. Though we didn’t make it to the residential side of the islands, the number of bike-toting individuals that poured off the first ferry was astonishing. Here we were, in Canada’s largest city, with a sort-of hippie commune within arm’s reach!

Loved this sign!

The blessing of that first ferry was that we were among a very small group. As a result, once on the other side, it felt like we had the island to ourselves.

Mack also particularly enjoyed the city’s skyline as viewed from the Toronto Islands

The downside of visiting in May instead of June through September, however, is that many of the attractions, including the amusement park, were closed. Still, wandering the serene and lush, dew-sprinkled grounds were an attraction enough.

Centre Island

We did wander over to the beach on the other side, but still early, the mist and fog wouldn’t have made it an ideal time to spend on the sand or in the water.

We were also amazed at the amount of “wildlife” present all around Centre Island, from aggressive sparrows to fearless ducks, graceful swans and innumerable geese. And let’s not forget Amanda’s favourite – snakes!

Geese

Amanda’s pet

Even the inanimate animals were fun, the highlight found in Franklin’s Garden.

Mack confronts Franklin

Amanda found a better pet

Toting a picnic basket and swim gear, visiting Centre Island could easily take up an entire day – children in tow or not. The few hours we spent were good enough for us though, especially since our wait for the return ferry saw at least a hundred people pile off – and we weren’t in an island sharing mood.

Guu

Guu came to us recommended by a random Toronto blog I came across. Edmonton is bereft of izakayas, and friends of mine who have lived in Japan constantly bemoan this fact. And while I don’t eat sushi, cooked Japanese tapas are right up my alley, so I was curious to see what a Japanese pub was all about.

That said, I wasn’t expecting the raucous welcome that we received. Anytime a guest entered, all staff turned to the door with a loud greeting of welcome. Similarly, anytime a guest was leaving the establishment, hollers of goodbye and thank you travelled with them. It took us a while to get used to the noise, but there is no doubt it creates a very spirited, joyful atmosphere. Mack commented that it really drew attention to how many parties come and go in a given night.

Mack and Amanda at Guu

The interior was made up of low wooden tables and stools, warmed by Edison bulbs and a bustling open kitchen (flames were seen on more than one occasion).

Interior

The sharing menu is perfect for large groups, and was great for first timers like us, as it gave us the chance to sample numerous dishes. Our server recommended seven dishes for a three top. The standouts included the sweet and spicy fried calamari and pan-fried pork cheek.

Sweet and spicy fried calamari

Pan-fried pork cheek

I expected the okonomiyaki to be crispier and less wobbly, and the agedashi tofu to have had a firmer exterior, though the dashi broth was great.

Okonomiyaki

Agedashi tofu

Service was brisk, but matched the pace of the restaurant. I could definitely see myself returning on future visits, though it is the sort of place I would love to see in Edmonton. With the runaway success of Three Boars, other true small plates-focused eateries should be in the works. I think Edmonton is ready.

A Perfectly Pleasant Patio: Viphalay

Resembling more of a house than a restaurant, the second location of Viphalay on 99 Avenue and 105 Street is easy to miss. I never did visit any of its previous occupants, so the building was never familiar to me as an eatery as it was to Mack. But on a lazy Friday, when our kitchen was the last place either of us wanted to be, we wandered over to Viphalay, its patio beckoning.

Viphalay

When we arrived, we were surprised to find the patio empty. Sure, the clouds were looming in the distance, but right then, the evening sun was warm and the air calm – the perfect conditions for al fresco dining (that said, about a half hour later, the patio filled right up). Viphalay’s patio features a number of brightly coloured flower baskets, and though it isn’t on the best street for people watching, the quiet, mostly car-less setting suited us just fine as we unwound after a full week.

Although the McCauley-based Viphalay remains closed (the family shared that they were in need of more kitchen staff), the menu here looked identical. Mack and I didn’t stray too far away from our tried and true favourites, and we weren’t disappointed.

I will say that we think our spring roll ($8) order got mixed up, as we were served the vegetarian version instead of the requested pork. But our pad thai ($15) and green curry ($14) were exactly what we were looking for that night. The noodles were slightly sweet, integrated with a generous amount of chicken, shrimp and tofu, while the curry had just the right amount of heat, dissipated by the creamy coconut rice.

Spring rolls

Pad Thai

Green curry

We had plenty of leftovers for the days ahead, but better yet, Viphalay got us in the right frame of mind for the weekend. We look forward to many happy returns.

Viphalay
10523 99 Avenue
(780) 756-8118

Go for the Samosas: Guru

Every time Mack’s Dad rolls into town solo, usually en route to a conference somewhere, it means we’re in store for dinner at an Indian restaurant. Mack’s Mom lacks an affinity for curries, so Martin takes advantage of any opportunity he can to satisfy his cravings (it is similar to Mack’s love of Greek).

Last Thursday, Mack and I suggested that we give Guru a try. Origin India had been our go-to place for previous occasions, but we’ve been meaning to head over to Chef Deependra Singh’s restaurant for quite some time, and this was the perfect excuse. We were also told Guru had a good gluten-free menu, which was needed for one in our party as well.

Located between 100 Avenue and 170 Street, Guru is highly visible to traffic, but in some ways, this is also a drawback. We were seated by a window, which would normally be ideal for access to natural light and green, but all I had in my line of sight was a constant stream of cars. For that reason, a table in the heart of Guru is more desirable.

The interior is tasteful, with dark wood throughout with some glass accents. A small bar and private room round out the dining area, and the kitchen offers a windowed peek into the work of the naan artist.

Interior

Buffets aren’t offered at Guru, which in some ways was freeing because of our knee-jerk tendency to choose buffets by default. This way, we had to be more selective about what dishes we wanted to try. Mack and I missed the initial spiel from the server, but he apparently recommended that each of us order our own dish. This surprised me a bit, because apart from buffets, I usually correlate Indian food with family-style service.

This wasn’t the first time I would be a little taken aback by the server. Though I wouldn’t consider Guru a fine dining establishment on the same level as Hardware Grill, I would still hold it to a standard higher than casual upscale eateries like Earls or Joey’s. As a result, the informal demeanour of the server was unanticipated – his mention of using the samosas to pick up girls at Moxie’s, or “spending all his money at bars and having nothing to show for it”. Some may have found his candid nature refreshing, but I thought it was out of place, and cheapened the experience somewhat.

That said, we thoroughly enjoyed the food. The butter chicken samosas (4 for $12) were hot and crispy, the flaky shells enhanced by a sweet tamarind sauce. The chicken could have been a touch more moist, but it was impressive just how much meat they packed in each samosa. Mack loved these, and commented that he’d return just for the samosas.

Butter chicken samosas

Entrees ranged in price from $18-24 (rice and naan separate), so I figured the servings would be quite large. When the bowls arrived, it didn’t quite meet those expectations. After struggling to finish the dish, however, I realized it was quite deceiving, especially for such rich, flavour-packed curries.

The paneer butter masala ($18) essentially substituted the dense Indian cheese for chicken, so Mack and I got the best of both worlds – his favourite sauce, my favourite protein. We were told the heat level would be a three on a scale of ten, but for me it was probably closer to a one. The fish moilee ($24) was a nice surprise, tender fish in a coconut-based sauce. This was particularly tasty paired with the saffron rice and coconut naan.

Paneer butter masala

Fish moilee

There were other nods of approval around the table – Martin and Thom ordered the Guru Rajasthani lamb curry ($21), Shane the chicken vindaloo ($19) and Kim the butter chicken ($19).

Chicken vindaloo

At the end of our meal Chef Singh did come to check on us, which was a nice touch. And though we now have two good options where we can gather the next time Martin is in town, I have to say I’d lean towards returning to Origin India. Guru would be a close second on that list, especially if we were craving those butter chicken samosas.

Guru
17021 – 100 Avenue
(780) 484-4300

Toronto Redux: Restaurants Galore!

I’ve been a delinquent blogger, always posting about things very late in the game. But hopefully some time this summer, I’ll finally catch up! That’s the hope, anyway, at this halfway point in the year…

This post refers to my March 2012 Toronto trek, which I also wrote about here and here. I’ll be back again to recap my May 2012 trip in future posts.

I’m amazed Amanda and I were able to fit in so many restaurants in those six days, in between attending a conference. But a girl’s gotta eat, right?

The Stockyards

The Stockyards was without a doubt the most disappointing experience we had, which was a shame because it was some of the best food we ate that week.

Located near the Saint Claire West station (a great example of transit-oriented development, with a grocery store right above the subway and drugstores, restaurants and other amenities within three blocks), we read about The Stockyards in Where, and a quick search online yielded an irresistible brunch menu.

The restaurant is tiny – 18 bar-style seats. When we arrived, there was already a number of people waiting for seats in the de facto lobby. While we were more than ready to wait, we weren’t prepared to be ignored by the two servers. One walked past us twice without acknowledging us, and the other proceeded to answer the phone and have a prolonged personal conversation when we approached her at the counter. After we were seated at the bar with a view of the kitchen, we were asked to move to seats on the opposite wall to make room for a larger party. The server offered us a complimentary biscuit to make up for the move, which was nice, but the service didn’t really improve from there. Coffee refills were scarce, and though Amanda had ordered the same dish as the patron next to me, he was afforded a dish of wet naps while she was not. Maybe The Stockyards is a place where only the vocal and aggressive are served well, but if that’s the case, it’s an even stronger reason for us never to return.

Interior

As I mentioned, the food really was great. What can I say about the fried chicken and waffles ($13)? I thought The Drake was the epitome of fried chicken, but I was wrong – the skin was incredibly crispy, but even better, the meat beneath it was so juicy and moist it actually made it messy to eat. We also loved the play of sweetness and heat from the chili maple molasses citrus glaze.

Fried chicken and waffles

The biscuits with sausage gravy ($11) was a monster of a dish. The biscuits, flaky and warm, were perfection, and the eggs were a creamy dream.

Biscuits with sausage gravy

A shame, because Amanda and I will never return to The Stockyards.

Bannock

At some point it became a mission for Amanda and me to visit all of Olivier & Bonacini’s restaurants. We already covered Jump and Canoe last year, so this time around, Bannock and Luma were on our hit list.

Located in the Hudson’s Bay downtown, Bannock connects to this historic Canadian company by purporting a philosophy of “Canadian comfort food”. It’s also the only restaurants I’ve ever dined in to feature a fishbowl window that looks directly into the store, but without the dingy cafeteria vibe. The interior of Bannock could be described as an urban cabin, with “aged” wood beams lending a rustic but polished look. Paper placemat menus completed the playful theme.

“Wine” display at Bannock

We were seated on the banquet wall, which was spaced so narrowly that at times, it felt like a communal table. We happily chatted with the neighbours (openly gawking at their orders, and vice versa), though it did make getting in and out of the bench seating a bit of a challenge.

I couldn’t help but order their signature HBC cocktail (vodka, peach schnapps, cranberry juice and peach puree). It tasted, not surprisingly, like juice, though I have to say I expected a bit more colour homage in the drink, with layers, or at least the use of some throwback spirits.

Amanda and I split three dishes that night. The first, a Prairie grain salad ($9), was the starter equivalent of a kitchen sink, but in a good way! Delving in, we continued to unearth the different ingredients that made up the dish – from barley, lentils and sprouts, to cauliflower, mushrooms, green beans, and pickled cucumber. It was a light but filling salad, and would be a great vegetarian entrée on its own.

Prairie grain salad

My favourite of our meal was their mac and cheese ($14). At first, I thought the inclusion of wilted spinach was a bit token in nature, meant to make indulgent diners feel a little less guilty, but it actually worked quite well to add texture and a bit of colour to the bubbly pasta dish. It ended up being one of the best mac and cheeses I’ve ever tasted, with a nicely melted crust and pasta bathed in a creamy, rich sauce. Somewhere, Mack was salivating.

Mac and cheese

The duck poutine pizza ($16) was good in theory – a thin crust topped with roast duck, caramelized onions, fries, cheese curds and gravy. But I think it was all just a bit too much; the duck was overwhelmed by the poutine, and honestly, after the first few bites, Amanda and I struggled to finish the rest. It was also a dish that absolutely needed to be consumed hot – as the pizza cooled, it definitely lost its panache.

Duck poutine pizza

As a whole, I thoroughly enjoyed our experience at Bannock. Perhaps it is too soon to declare it at the top of my O & B list, but I would make it a point to return upon our next Toronto visit.

Luma

Situated on the second floor of the Toronto International Film Festival Lightbox on King Street, Luma has one of the best people-watching vantages we’d come across. It also makes an excellent first impression, with its serene, uniform-level dining room, Edison bulbs, and neutral colour palette.

Interior

For that reason, I was hoping the food would match the surroundings. The table bread had us off to a great start; the artichoke-garlic spread was a punchy alternative to butter.

Bread with delicious artichoke-garlic spread

Amanda’s croque madam ($9) was an enviable dish, a perfectly runny egg atop a layer of béchamel and toast.

Croque madam

My meatball sub ($15, with salad substitution) with provolone and arugula was just okay. The meatballs weren’t as tender as I would have liked, and the bread had been over-toasted to the point where it was difficult to eat. The mixed greens on the side were tasty, however, with the alfalfa sprouts an unexpected but welcome touch.

Meatball sub

Service was low-key but friendly, and we felt well taken care of. Between that and the stellar location, I would return to Luma again, but would hope that the food would be more consistent next time.

Dark Horse

After lunch, Amanda and I headed towards Queen Street West, and happened to stumble upon the newest Dark Horse cafe in Toronto. It had only opened the day prior, and was so new the storefront was still without a sign above the door. It was an undoubtedly eye-catching space – I loved the red brick and pressed tin ceiling.

Dark Horse

I had wanted to try an espresso-based drink from Dark Horse, but their espresso machine wasn’t working, so they were only offering filtered coffees and milk-based drinks. Amanda and I decided on a hot chocolate and London fog, respectively.

London fog

The London fog was very smooth and balanced, and gave me confidence that their lattes would be equally tasty. Until next time, Dark Horse!

Well-rounded Lunch: Cibo Bistro

Cibo Bistro was the chosen restaurant for an appreciation lunch scheduled two weeks ago. I had recommended it based partly on its central location and attached parking, but also because I had heard their lunch menu was worth trying. Cibo was new to everyone in our group.

Cibo Bistro is located in the former Tesoro storefront in Oliver square. Similar to its predecessor, the space was pleasant, but felt far from warm, something especially evident on that dreary day. The walls looked bleak and grey, and the high ceiling seemed more imposing than grand. Our large group was actually seated in the only bright spot in the dining room – a raised, semi-enclosed area lit by an incandescent fixture. That said, it was quite busy on a random Tuesday, so I’d imagine the food to be the ultimate draw.

Interior

I loved their mobile menu – instead of individual folders, a chalkboard and easel was set up by our table. It speaks to the flexibility of the kitchen and a desire to keep things fresh for regulars. Though the menu was short, the half dozen soup, sandwich, pizza and pasta options were interesting enough to capture the appetites in our group. All full entrees were also priced at $10, a nice round number easy to digest.

Service was steady and consistent, and the servers made sure we were well taken care of throughout our meal. Our food also arrived in good time, and all plates for our party of six were hot. Several of us had ordered the meatball sandwich with tomato basil jam, arugula and prosciutto. It was a bit small for my liking, but I have to say that I thought it was ingenious that the meatballs were halved to make it easier to eat! I enjoyed the springy bread, and the meatballs were moist with enough fat for flavour. The side of roasted red pepper soup was on the sweet side, but I liked the consistency.

Meatball sandwich

The pizza frita with prosciutto, fig, mint and arugula was also very well received, but the bucatini with white wine, asparagus, garlic and tomato was less so, with my colleague commenting that it was very greasy.

Pizza frita with prosciutto, fig, mint and arugula

Bucatini with white wine, asparagus, garlic and tomato

We decided to split a dessert, and on the server’s recommendation, ordered the chocolate trio ($13). It really was a work of art, between the Frangelico and milk chocolate mousse served in the jar, white chocolate gelato topped with hazelnut brittle, and the slice of dark chocolate tart. But I was glad we ended up sharing it six ways, because it would have been much too decadent for one person alone. Though each dessert could have stood on its own, the star of this plate was no doubt the silky smooth chocolate tart.

Chocolate trio

Based on this experience, I wouldn’t hesitate to return again for lunch, though mostly, it makes me want to try out their dinner menu. Until next time!

Cibo Bistro
11244 – 104 Avenue
780-757-2426

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