Brunch and Bop: Culina Muttart and the Slow Flash Mob

Though brunch is always on the “to do” list when we’re on vacation, while we’re at home, it’s hard to motivate ourselves to get out of bed on the weekend! That said, planned in advance this summer, we were actually pleasantly surprised by some of the new-to-us brunch discoveries we made.

The first was Culina Muttart. Located inside one of Edmonton’s year-round tourist destinations, the restaurant now provides locals with a reason to visit the attraction on a more regular basis. The patio was lovely that day, diners enjoying the full sun among the planters and water feature, but we opted instead for a comfortable window seat inside. The only downside of the interior was its north-facing orientation, meaning that the majority of the tables seemed starved for sunlight, but I recognize not much could be done about that.

The menu is small, with just five mains to choose from. And in anti-food blog fashion, Mack, Grandma Male and I all ordered the exact same dish – the classic eggs benedict with honey ham ($15). Given how hungry I was that day, I also added a pastry basket for two ($7).

The basket arrived, still warm and accompanied by room-temperature butter and Jam Lady spread. Mack and Grandma Male both enjoyed the cornbread, while I polished off a delicious cheddar scone. The basket alone would have made for a light and lovely breakfast.

Pastry basket

The waitress then delivered each of us a small bowl of granola, topped with Greek yogurt. Nowhere on the menu was this inclusion listed, and while a welcome addition, had I known in advance, I likely wouldn’t have ordered the pastry basket at all.

Granola bowl

The eggs benedict was nicely presented, garnished with microgreens. We found no quibble with the white wine hollandaise, but were a bit disappointed with the eggs, which were medium as opposed to the requested soft poached. However, we all commented that the sweet honey ham was notable.

Classic eggs benedict

Service was professional, and Mack was satisfied with the number of coffee refills offered throughout our meal. As a whole, the meal was a positive experience, and made me want to return for one of their Thursday night prix-fixe dinners.

After brunch, we decided to cross the river to Louise McKinney Riverfront Park to take in the Slow Flash Mob. An initiative led by Amy Shostak, the one-day festival on July 20, 2013 sought to encourage multi-generational interaction in an underutilized green space.

Zumba lessons

Activities ranged from zumba to improv lessons, storytelling and karaoke. The activities were spread out across the park, making use of the Chinese garden, grassy field and Shumka stage. Things were very well-organized, keeping to the schedule. There was even a free shuttle which transported attendees from the Central Lions Seniors Centre.

Free doughnuts from the Ye Olde Donut Shoppe

It was just unfortunate that it wasn’t better attended. Of course there is always lots to choose from on any summer weekend in Edmonton, but I think some people may have been confused by the name of the event. Had I not read about the festival prior, I probably would have assumed the event encouraged sluggish group dances.

Julie and Birkley from Sugar Swing perform

Mack and I took part in the swing dance lesson led by the Sugar Swing Dance Club, while Grandma Male chatted with some of the others in the audience. It was a fun way to spend part of a sunny summer afternoon!

Swing lessons!

Thanks to Amy and her team for putting on this event!

Culina Muttart
9626 96A Street
(780) 466-1181
Lunch, Monday to Friday, 11am-2pm; Dinner, Thursdays, 5-8:30pm; Brunch, Saturday and Sunday, 10:30am-2:30pm

Smashburger lands in Edmonton

The number of fast casual burger restaurants in Edmonton just keeps on growing. On July 3, 2013, the Edmonton area’s first Smashburger franchise opened up in Sherwood Park, joining the likes of Fatburger, Five Guys, Rodeo Burger and The Burger Joint in an increasingly crowded burger scene. In many ways, it’s not surprising – North America’s love affair of the hamburger is well-documented, and with palates leaning more towards fresher alternatives, those offering something a step above drive-thru fare are blossoming. The Sherwood Park location is Canada’s third Smashburger, adding to Alberta’s glut, with two already situated in Calgary.

Mack and I attended the media reception in early July, eager to see how Smashburger would differentiate itself from others. It turns out, Smashburger attempts to distinguish its beef burgers with its proprietary cooking process: meatballs, rolled fresh daily, are “smashed” on the grill to order, a method, they promise, provides a caramelized sear that seals in the patty’s natural juices.

We were invited to order whatever we desired from the menu, a very generous offer. Featuring a number of pre-designed beef and grilled chicken burger creations, salads, and sides, prices ranged from $5.99-$8.49 for burgers. For more creative (or particular) eaters, Smashburger also offers a “create your own” option.

Mack immediately gravitated towards the Edmonton burger (each city features a recipe inspired by regional flavours). In this case, a beef or grilled chicken patty is topped with grilled onions, cheddar, BBQ sauce and a fried egg. A Saskatoon berry shake and poutine are also exclusive to the Canadian menu.

I decided to stick with the Classic Smash, with American cheese, Smash sauce, ketchup, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion on an egg bun. Mack chose a poutine side, while I chose the Haystack onions.

We were happy to run into Su and Joveena, two of Edmonton’s prolific #yegfood tweeters. Dinner is always better with good company!

Su and Joveena

Portions were generous, and everything was delivered piping hot. Both of us enjoyed our respective burgers, but save my sweet egg bun, I’m not sure I’d be able to identify the burger in a blind taste test. I did appreciate that the Smash sauce was given as a side, which gave me control over how much I wanted to add, but Mack commented how much it reminded him of a certain “special sauce” at a rival quick-service giant.

Edmonton Burger and poutine

The sides, however, left something to be desired. Shoestring fries are not ideal for poutine, as they aren’t as suited to be weighted under the layers of gravy and cheese. My Haystack onions were more like the onion straws used as a textural addition to burgers, instead of the substantial battered and fried rings I’m used to. They were also incredibly salty. I’m sure this is just a personal preference, but I prefer my onion rings whole and not shredded.

Classic Smash and haystack onions

The service that night was over the top, as expected, though I’d be curious to see how it has toned itself down as the staff settle into a more typical rhythm.

Located in Emerald Hills, one of the newer neighbourhoods of Sherwood Park, it was a bit of a shame the Edmonton attendees didn’t decide to carpool before hand. The drive was close to 45 minutes from downtown in rush hour traffic, so it would be doubtful we’d undertake such a commute if we didn’t already have plans in the area. That said, if we were looking for a fast casual burger in Sherwood Park, we wouldn’t mind returning to Smashburger just for their namesake dish. Thanks to the restaurant for the invitation!

Want to give it a try yourself? For a chance to win $25 in Smashburger gift certificates, leave a comment below (with a valid e-mail address) with the name of the burger you’d order off of the local menu. Contest closes on July 26, 2013 at 11:59pm. Winner will be chosen by a random number generator and contacted by e-mail.

EDIT (July 28, 2013): Congratulations to Jessica for winning $25 in Smashburger gift certificates! Thanks to everyone who entered.

Check out the plethora of reviews from other local bloggers: Andrea, Courtenay, Eva, Diane, Karlynn, Lillian, Liv and Phil.

Smashburger
#530, 500 Emerald Drive, Sherwood Park
(780) 410-0999
Hours: 10am-10pm daily

Chef’s Table at Hardware Grill

In my family, June is a time for celebration. My Mum, Dad and I all share June as a birthday month, and of course, Father’s Day is a standard observance. This year, for one of my milestone birthdays, I decided the cumulative festivities could justify the Chef’s Table splurge at the venerable Hardware Grill. As it stands, $100 for five courses at the consistently excellent restaurant is reasonable, but it was still nice to have these special occasions to commemorate with my parents.

The Chef’s Table can accommodate up to six, and like any communal table, we were told that we’d likely be joined by a party of two that night. When we arrived, we noticed that the place settings were set for four. The couple never did end up arriving, but we appreciated the heads up nonetheless.

With my parents

The Chef’s Table is located right inside the kitchen, with a perfect view of Chef Larry Stewart and his crew. I’m sure the staff are immune to it now, but I would feel a little odd being observed, fishbowl-style, as I worked. That said, we really appreciated their candor and unaffected behaviour. As we would find out, unlike the nightmare back room scenarios portrayed on television, Hardware Grill is a pristine example of a well-oiled machine.

Our view of the kitchen

A printed menu laid out the five dishes for the night, which would be served over the course of three and a half hours. The meal was so well paced, we had no idea where the time went (it didn’t mean we finished all of our food, however – most of our entrée and desserts ended up in take-home boxes). And though the food was wonderful, what really set the experience apart was the staff. White linens sometimes equal stiff and awkward interactions, but at Hardware Grill, we are always floored by the service. Beyond gracious and professional, as expected at a fine dining establishment, staff are warm, good-humoured and seem to genuinely enjoy their work.

It was also the little things – for instance, we decided to order two wine pairings to share. Without missing a beat, individual glasses were delivered to each of us, a single pour split between two. Although this wasn’t my first time sharing a wine pairing, it was certainly the first time I’ve encountered the generosity of providing a second glass.

Just as the service was measured and executed perfectly, so too were the kitchen dynamics. Chef Stewart received each order, calling out items calmly. The other chefs would quietly get to work on their components, with Sous Chef Jesse Chalmers periodically updating the ETA of the main protein. Communication was paramount, and in this kitchen, was the cornerstone on an effective team. I wrongly assumed dining at the Chef’s Table would be a noisy affair; in reality, the din of the main dining room was noticeably louder than in the kitchen.

Mack observes the kitchen

The first course was a charming way to start off the meal – a bite-size sandwich layered with brioche, lobster, pancetta, arugula and oven-dried tomato paired with a lobster bisque. The photo is a bit deceiving – a heavy hand in the kitchen dealt the lobster.

Soup ‘n sandwich

The salad of buffalo mozzarella and symphony heirloom tomatoes was simple, but made with good ingredients, including a spike of lemon-scented olive oil, was delicious.

Buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad

Mack especially enjoyed the pasta course of hand-rolled goat cheese tortelloni, their creamy centres stealing the show. For me, it was the underlying corn broth that sung – it was skill that coaxed such fragrance and aroma from the corn.

Goat cheese tortelloni with beech mushrooms in corn broth

By the time we reached the entrée, we were already approaching the point of being uncomfortably full. Interestingly enough, we were encouraged to eat the hickory-smoked quail by hand, not something we would have expected. I ended up gravitating more to the vegetables on the plate, in particular to the caramelized cauliflower, lovingly browned in a way that I will try to replicate at home.

Hickory-smoked quail

After the preceding two courses, I was anticipating a light finish to the dinner. Instead, we were presented with a dense, intensely rich chocolate marquise. Even one half the size would have been too much for me, but the dollop of sour cream on top was curious, lending a tang that did not pair well with the chocolate.

Chocolate marquise

Kudos to the staff of Hardware Grill for a memorable experience. If anything, it reminded me that I shouldn’t let too much time pass between future visits to Edmonton’s most respected restaurant.

Hardware Grill
9698 Jasper Avenue
(780) 423-0969

Patio Seekers: The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald

After work on Friday, I was struck with the immediate urge to seek out a patio. If there was a blessing to be had with our recent spell of wet and wild weather, it would be the carpe diem philosophy with which we now approach sunny days.

Living downtown, Mack and I have no shortage of al fresco options within walking distance. From those best suited to soaking up the sun, people watching, or a quiet escape, there are patios to match every mood. On that day, I wanted to enjoy a green vantage point, so immediately thought of The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald.

The Mac

A less formal option than The Harvest Room, The Confederation Lounge has tried in recent years to offer more casual dishes. I recognize it is a delicate balance, as the Mac would not want to jeopardize their bread and butter clientele who prefer the familiar steak and potatoes fare. Still, it would be nice to see the occasional feature menu which might help attract diners who may not select a restaurant based on its views alone.

We were directed to choose a seat anywhere on the patio, all sheltered under a draped metal canopy. It was about a little more than a third full, with most diners appearing to have transitioned directly from the office to begin their weekend. Though the surrounding vista, in all its lush summer glory was exactly what I was looking for, the nondescript jazz being piped from the speakers behind us was unnecessary. I would have much preferred no deliberate soundtrack, as the comforting lilt of the nearby water fountain was fitting enough for the setting.

Picturesque fountain

Not a surprise, prices were on the steep side, both for libations and food. Mixed drinks were $14, and though the menu touted the inclusion of local ingredients, we were reminded of the fact that these were indeed hotel prices.

Raspberry 75 and Triple-Pepper Caesar

We had no intention of having a full dinner, but were interested in some nibbles. Their one-page menu focused very much on salads, sandwiches, and entrée plates, with only half a dozen truly sharable plate options. We settled on the item most unlike the others, a butter chicken poutine ($20).

Service waivered – although our food arrived quickly, our initial wait for service numbered fifteen minutes. Though our server was friendly and seemed like he was doing his best, it was clear he was being run off his feet. With the Hotel MacDonald’s reputation of being customer-driven, we expected better on this front.

However, the poutine itself was great! In our experience, poutines often receive failing grades because of poorly made fries that can’t stand up to the gravy, resulting in a mash of soggy potatoes. The Confederation Lounge’s fries were delightfully crisp, and remained so all the way through. The tandoori chicken (mostly dark meat, cooked until tender) was sauced in a relatively mild dressing, and was a tasty topping for the fries. Our only minor complaint was that the chicken pieces could have been diced further, as poutine shouldn’t require a knife to eat!

Butter chicken poutine

It’s difficult to think of a patio that allows such wondrous river valley views, but based on their current food menu, I’d likely return just for drinks.

The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald
10065 100 Street
(780) 424 5181

Weekend in Calgary: Borgo and Market

Back in March, Mack and I headed to Calgary for the weekend. Though I recapped some of our eats on that road trip, I haven’t yet posted about our suppers.

Borgo Trattoria

Borgo Trattoria is the latest offering from the chef behind Capo, the acclaimed Italian restaurant that has since closed. Though I never had the chance to visit Capo, from what I gather, Borgo would have been its younger, hipper sister, not only because of its atmosphere, but also because of a less traditional menu that emphasizes share plates.

Reservations are only permitted between 5-6:30pm, but we didn’t mind, as it guaranteed us a table. If you aren’t an early eater, be prepared for a wait! The crowd in the lobby started forming halfway through our meal.

The interior was somewhat puzzling, a mash-up between a warm, Italian kitchen (the heart of the dining room was a brightly lit bar) and a nightclub. The techno beats streaming from the speakers didn’t seem to match the décor, and neither did the unnecessary projection of Fashion Television episodes on the wall above our heads. We hoped the food would stand up for itself, as opposed to relying on the sights and sounds to enhance the experience.

Mack at Borgo

We were pleasantly surprised. The arancini rivaled Corso 32’s version, paired with creamy cheese fonduto sauce. It was hot, crispy and simply delectable. The sauteed mushrooms paired with crostini were okay, but it seemed the flavour relied heavily on the truffle oil.

Aranini

Mushroom crostini

The orichette, with broccoletti and smoked bacon, was a bit of a let down. It was missing something, though we did enjoy coming across the pops of bacon.

Orichette with borccoletti and smoked bacon

The highlight of our meal was undoubtedly the veal meatball. It was a dash salty, but all components, from the Sunday sauce, tender meat, and perfectly executed creamy polenta made up a dish that almost had us licking our plates clean.

Veal meatball and polenta

Service was consistent all the way through (dishes arrived lightning fast), until the end, when we waited quite a while to settle our cheque. Our server was doing the best that he could though – it was a packed house by that time.

We enjoyed Borgo as a whole, and now have our go-to dishes if we decide to return in the future.

Market

The next night, we were lured to Market, just two weeks old at the time. It was all over the Calgary blogosphere, benefitting from Executive Chef Geoff Rogers’s debut on the third season of Top Chef Canada in a few weeks time (though it has since been announced that Chef Rogers will be moving to Vancouver to join another TCC alum, Trevor Bird, at Fable Kitchen).

When we arrived, the room was buzzing. We also realized we were the only diners not to receive the memo of the dress code for the evening: four inch heels and miniskirts for the women, and the sneaker-suit jacket combo for men. Needless to say, we felt more than a little out of place, but thankfully, our server put us at ease. Still, it’s worth saying that between the nightclub atmosphere and attire at Borgo and Market, we were glad Edmonton restaurants haven’t picked up on this trend.

Market prides itself not only on sourcing local ingredients, but also on making as much from scratch as possible, including breads, cheese and cured meats. They even have an Urban Cultivator which allows them to maintain an indoor garden year-round. This was mirrored in the décor, with glass terrariums suspended from the ceiling. The rest of the interior was plain, if stark, entirely black and white and devoid of any colour.

The menu, skewed towards small plates, changes often to reflect the seasons, but at that time, emphasized comfort food. As a result, Mack and I couldn’t decide between dishes and ended up with four, much too ambitious given the richness of the items.

For balance, we chose to start with their greens. It was a pretty standard salad, but Mack especially enjoyed the pickled beets, and I loved the inclusion of fresh watercress.

Greens

We had to order the charcuterie board as well, given it would best showcase some of the kitchen’s from-scratch preparations. The air-dried bison, duck bacon and chorizo were great, and the pickled vegetables and house-made mustard were nice touches.

Charcuterie

The potato and onion dish was Mack’s favourite, with melt-away gnocchi, caramelized onions, and pops of crispy fried onions.

Gnocchi

The lamb tart put us over the top. Though I’m not usually a fan of lamb sausage, the Ewe-Nique sausage tasted almost like pork, bursting with flavour. We didn’t initially take to the buttery crust, thinking it didn’t pair quite well with the savoury toppings, but it grew on us.

Lamb tart

I can’t speak to the food since Chef Rogers has moved on, but I’m hoping they retain the philosophy behind their menu, and the food quality that we experienced that night. I’m looking forward to returning to see what seasonal treats are now in store!

Rosso Pizzeria: Wood-Fired Sustenance

As soon as the weather took a turn for the better in May, it felt like Mack and I were out exploring on foot almost every night. One of the stops at the end of a walk was Rosso Pizzeria, the rebranded 109 Street Da Capo storefront. With the installation of a wood-fired oven in the restaurant, the menu now highlights items prepared in the oven, including house-made bread, fire roasted vegetables, and of course, wood-fired pizza. To remind diners of the force in the kitchen, a floor-to-ceiling shelf piled high with wood greets those that walk through the front door.

The new oven

For a Saturday, I really expected Rosso Pizzeria to be busier, but I wondered if many have yet to learn about their new menu, or the fact that they were now open after a brief closure for renovations. The vibe of the restaurant was still quite low-key, and that was reflected in the clientele – a family with school-aged children, groups of girlfriends and couples, and a familiar site at Da Capo, tables of serious cyclists.

Interior

Mack wines down

We decided to spring for two different pizzas (priced from $13-16) – one red and one white. The former was the night’s special, featuring prosciutto and asparagus, while the other, fungi misti, I knew I had to have after spying it on Liv’s blog.

I acknowledge that crust preference is very personal, and for me, I’ve always leaned towards a crispier crust. While I enjoy Famoso’s fold-over, pliable dough from time to time, my go-to choice is a crust that can hold its toppings. For that reason, I loved Rosso’s crackling base, browned slightly underneath. The sparse ingredients over top was perfect, not weighing down the pizza.

Prosciutto and asparagus pizza

Though I enjoyed my first taste of asparagus this year, my favourite was the fungi misti. The combination of earthy mushrooms and fragrant truffle oil is hard to beat, while the light sprinkling of the fior de latte and tallegio made sure the mushrooms were the focus.

Mushroom and truffle oil pizza

Service never waivered, and we felt well taken care of. Mack and I both wouldn’t hesitate to return – either for a quick lunch or a more leisurely supper. I hope the traffic at Rosso Pizzeria picks up soon!

On our way back home, we made sure to walk through the Legislature grounds to take advantage of a warm spring night. The blossoms were gorgeous, and the post-dinner walk was the best way to end the night.

High Level Bridge

Blossoms

Rosso Pizzeria
8738 109 Street
(780) 433-5382
Sunday-Thursday 10am-10pm, Friday-Saturday 10am-12am

Date Night: La Shish Taouk and “The Soul Collector”

Back in May, we spent a wonderful day in Old Strathcona. After some time perusing the shops along the main strip, we stopped for dinner at La Shish Taouk. Su had raved about their food, but it wasn’t obvious to us until later that this Whyte Avenue location is their third. Funny enough, we used to live within walking distance of their Oliver restaurant…but never once set foot inside.

Taking up a storefront vacated by Crepeworks, the arrangement of a dominant counter and minimal seating up front had been maintained. But pattered wallpaper and a bright red colour scheme did wonders to enhance the narrow space.

Interior

The quick-serve Lebanese menu primarily offered marinated meat options served in pita form, or on plates alongside side dishes. Given we had re-watched The Avengers not too long ago (featuring a hilarious post-credit scene involving shawarma), we knew we would both be choosing the chicken shawarma ($6.95, combo $12.18).

Made to order, the wrap was hot and visually tempting. Even better, it tasted as good as it looked – the meat was moist, and I liked the added texture from the pickles and zing from the garlic spread. The toasted fresh pita was icing on the cake. We also shared a side of fries, and though a tad on the salty side, the shoestrings were crackling crisp, the best kind of guilty pleasure.

Chicken shawarma and fries

We’d never doubt Su’s recommendations, but after this visit, we can see why La Shish Taouk has expanded its presence in the city. Go for the shawarma, but make sure to sneak in some fries.

Satiated, we walked over to the Arts Barns for Catalyst Theatre’s The Soul Collector. Mack and I always look forward to their imaginative productions, a signature being their inclusion of highly stylized costumes and props. As a result, it was really neat that they set-up a Catalyst Theatre photo booth for patrons to dress up in pieces used in previous shows. No question, I took advantage of this opportunity.

A Catalyst character mash-up

I loved the whimsical stage that divided the seating area in half. Framed with cardboard trees and starkly lit, it effortlessly conveyed the barren northern setting for this tale of longing and tragedy. While the story wasn’t as compelling as some of their previous works, perhaps we were just grappling with the surprisingly optimistic ending, atypical for Catalyst. Still, we were transfixed by Karyn Mott’s turn as the lead Memory McQuaid (Mack immediately recognized her from her scene-stealing role in The Crimson Yak) – we couldn’t help but be pulled headfirst into her anguish, confusion and fear.

It was a great night out – the first of many for us this summer, just across the river!

La Shish Taouk
10352 82 Avenue (2 other locations)
(780) 705-1775
Sunday-Thursday 11am-2am, Friday-Saturday 11am-4am

Date Night: The Cavern and the Edmonton Symphony Orchestra

This is a bit of a composite “Date Night” post, as I had planned for a pre-symphony visit to The Cavern before an outing to the Winspear Centre last Friday. But an intense craving for wine and cheese hit me on Thursday, and I gave in.

The Cavern is the newest storefront to open up on the 4th Street Promenade, and in spite of being first and foremost a cheese shop, owner Tricia Bell has designed a dine-in concept that easily transitions from day to night. Early birds can head to The Cavern for an espresso and a bite of breakfast in the morning, while downtown office workers might be more interested in her daily grilled cheese lunch options. For the after work crowd, The Cavern offers wine and spirits alongside meat and cheese boards, great for some nibbles leading up to dinner, or as the main attraction before a night out on the town.

Mack and I walked in to a near full house that Thursday, and snagged the last two seats at the bar. During our previous visits, Tricia and the rest of her staff have always been warm and welcoming, and tonight was no different. It was clear they were all very busy trying to manage the room and handling new walk-ins, but we never felt rushed or not taken care of.

The Enomatic system makes it ideal for The Cavern to serve small 3 ounce pours of wine in addition to 6 or 9 ounce glasses, but Mack and I were fine with a regular glass each. For those interested in pairings, the cheese menu lists both wine and beer selections.

Malbec and Cava

We had to choose between a cheese board for two featuring three cheeses ($19) or a cheese and meat board with two of each ($24). We opted for the latter, and selected two meats from a list of five, and two cheese from a list of twenty. Tricia was a great help in answering our questions and guided us to a Quebec washed-rind cheese, Le Douanier, with a unique vegetable ash centre. It was soft and mild, with a lovely creamy texture. Our other cheese choice was Sylvan Star’s award winning Grizzly Gouda.

Meat and cheese board, with all beef salami and prosciutto di parma

The board was beautifully presented, with some fruit, fresh bread, and dollops of cherry jam and jalapeno jelly. I also loved the ability to imprint on the board itself with chalk, a seamless way to identify multiple items.

Cheers!

The Cavern was a wonderful place to spend the evening, and one that we will be returning to again.

The following evening, Mack and I walked over to the Winspear Centre for Radio from the Head, a show in the “Late Night with Bill Eddins” series. It has been a while since we last took in one of these concerts, but we knew we were in for an entertaining night, mostly due to the conductor’s personality and ease on stage.

The beautiful Winspear Centre

I was particularly drawn to this show because of the promise of a song to be paired with chocolate. Symphonic Chocolates by Maxime Goulet is composed of four movements, where the audience was invited to eat a different chocolate during the corresponding movement. The ESO partnered with local chocolatier Carol’s Quality Sweets, who produced the custom boxes of chocolates which were sold prior to the performance for $5 each.

It was an innovative multi-sensory experience that reminded me of Karen Brooks’ presentation at Feast in Portland which involved a communal tasting component, and the trend of food deliberately being paired with music. While we weren’t floored by all of the pairings, Mack and I enjoyed the dark chocolate which accompanied a theme cloaked in mystery, and a mint chocolate coupled with a movement reminiscent of a spring breeze.

Chocolates!

The show’s special guest was Christopher O’Riley, known for his piano interpretations of Radiohead. Mack, more familiar with Radiohead than I, was drawn to O’Riley’s performances of the three Radiohead songs. And though we can appreciate the difficulty of the four-hands Stravinsky piece, its 33 minute length was a rather bulky way to end the late-night concert.

“Late Night with Bill Eddins” will be back in the 2013-14 Edmonton Symphony Orchestra calendar. No mention of chocolates, though.

The Cavern
2, 10169 104 Street
(780) 455-1336
Monday-Thursday 7am-8pm, Friday and Saturday 7am-11pm, Sunday 10am-5pm

Edmonton Symphony Orchestra
Winspear Centre, 4 Sir Winston Churchill Square

Managing Expectations: Canteen

When I heard that Red Ox Inn would be opening a more casual sister establishment to their charming but upscale Strathern location, I was excited. Not only did it speak to the burgeoning nature of the 124 Street district (which has become a destination for the food-inclined), but it also speaks to a trend of less formal dining. Places like Three Boars, Tres Carnales, and more recently, Izakaya Tomo, highlight this style of dining, which may sacrifice white linens but not the creativity or quality of their food.

When Canteen opened in December, the response was immediate – diners seemed to love it! Reviews praised the service, the whimsical menu, and the modern décor. As a result, it was on our radar for a while, but only in March did the stars align so we could experience the restaurant ourselves.

Lovely place setting

We made a date with Jane and Yi-Li to try Canteen together on a Sunday evening. The room, lined with extended banquet seating on one side and a bar on the other, is sleek and understated, and with the oversized pendant lamps and minimal black and white colour scheme, reminded me very much of Moriarty’s. The open window at the back of the space with a view into the kitchen is a nice touch.

Bar

We ordered the corn fritters ($8), served with a smoky maple syrup, to start. The presentation was lovely, delivered in a custom wood serving dish, emblazoned with “Canteen” on the side (at the end of the evening, the bill was enclosed in a similarly customized vessel). Although the fritters themselves were hot, and perfectly crispy on the outside but soft on the inside, we were hoping for a smokier flavour in the syrup; it was a bit too subtle for our liking.

Fritters

Yi-Li and I both opted for the short rib ($29). The meat was tender, and held no resistance against being pulled off the bone, but wasn’t particularly memorable. The corn gnocchi, however, was an interesting twist to the usual side of potatoes.

Short rib

Mack did enjoy his snapper ($27), pan-fried to a crisp. But the star of his plate was the risotto cake – it was akin to an aracini, but with even more surface area for the outward layer of crunch!

Pan-seared snapper

If there was an entrée to sing about, it was Jane’s lamb chops ($32). The aggressive Moroccan rub complemented the meat well, cooked to a perfect medium rare.

Lamb chops

Our overall impression of Canteen at the dinner hour was positive, but based on the entrée prices (ranging from $26 to $32), we failed to see how it was a casual counterpart to Red Ox Inn. From our vantage point, Canteen is, in both food and service, still very much a higher-end establishment, without the linens. Although their menu does offer “small stuff”, bites which would accompany a glass of wine or beer well, I’m not sure I would feel comfortable sidling up to the bar at Canteen to order just a nibble or two. Mack and I both agreed that while we wouldn’t hesitate to celebrate a special occasion or accompany an out-of-town guest to Canteen, it likely wouldn’t be one of our go-to restaurants on a regular basis.

With that in mind, Mack and I visited Canteen for brunch over Easter weekend (their brunch menu actually appealed to us more than the dinner menu). Knowing that reservations could be made in advance, we did so, and avoided a disappointment that many parties experienced that morning, being turned away from a packed house.

We didn’t start off on the right foot. After we were seated, we were told that one of the menu items weren’t available. Of course, it turned out to be the dish that I had most looked forward to trying – the Saskatoon pop tart.

That disappointment aside, we were surprised to discover that Canteen doesn’t serve drip coffee. Generally, we’ve found establishments that have eschewed the drip method do offer French press instead, but at Canteen, our only options were espresso-based coffees. We settled on an Americano ($3), and though we were worried it would get cold while we waited for our dishes to arrive, it managed to stay warm.

There was no question I would be ordering the poached eggs over the cheddar chive biscuits ($17). The eggs were medium poached (I would have preferred a looser yolk), but I enjoyed the thick and creamy sausage gravy. Neither Mack or I really enjoyed the chicken apple sausage, finding it to be on the dry side, but both of us couldn’t get enough of the hash browns, fried to a crackling crisp.

Poached eggs over cheddar chive biscuits

Mack couldn’t pass up the truffled grilled cheese ($17). Although he enjoyed the sandwich well enough, Mack commented that it was a bit of a disjointed plate.

Truffled grilled cheese

Our server clearly wasn’t having a good day – the table to our left was impatiently waiting for their cheque, while a guest at the table to our right ended up with syrup spilled on his jacket. As a result, she seemed a bit more mechanical than we are used to for a morning service, but we could definitely sympathize.

In the end, brunch at Canteen was similar to our experience at Wildflower Grill – efficient and polished, but perhaps not the boisterous and lively atmosphere that we crave on weekend mornings.

Canteen
10522 124 Street
(780) 485 6125

Portland: The Dinner Hour

There were an overwhelming number of eateries to choose from to fill our supper hours in Portland. While we were resigned to the fact that we wouldn’t be able to hit up every restaurant on our list, I think we managed to visit a good cross-section of establishments, from late-night lounges to supper clubs. Overall, we were impressed by the creativity and the quality exhibited by the chefs in PDX.

Saucebox

For a late-night bite, we wanted to stay close to our home base, so wandered over to Saucebox, a lounge a block away from our hotel.

It was absolutely hopping on a Thursday night, not a surprise when we realized, after flipping through five pages of cocktail options, that their specialty was drinks. Still, their Asian-inspired bites were intriguing enough for us to stay, and ordered several small plates to share.

Their beef potstickers were the star, pan-fried to a crackling crisp. The salted prawns were gorgeous, delivered on a slate board, heads on, over a bed of salt. The spring rolls (one of Mack’s favourite things), were unfortunately bland and forgettable.

Beef potstickers

Salted prawns

Simpatica Dining Hall

Primarily a catering outfit, Simpatica Dining Hall appealed to us because of their supper club concept offered on Fridays and Saturdays. With an ever-changing menu, a four-course meal could be had for under $40, and I liked the idea of communal dining.

I ended up confusing the Friday and Saturday dinner times, and we were a half hour late (it was a bit mortifying walking into the full dining room), but the staff were understanding. It was also great timing in the sense that we were seated just as the first course was being served!

The fried chicken appetizer was a strong way to start. We loved the curry flavour in the breading, and the side of cornmeal pancakes with a green tomato syrup was a fun alternative to the current trend of chicken and waffles.

Fried chicken and short stack

The salad with pickled grapes, shaved sheep’s milk cheese and a tomato vinaigrette was refreshing. The toasted pistachios were a nice touch.

Salad

The smoked pork chop with cider glaze was a mountain meant to be climbed – I don’t think I’ve ever encountered such a large serving of pork before! It was well prepared, moist all the way through, but needless to say I wasn’t able to finish it. The wilted chard could also have been cooked down more.

Smoked pork chop

After such a heavy entrée, a lighter dessert would have been appreciated, but those around the table with bigger appetites than me murmured their approval for the decadent pecan pie.

Pecan pie

Although the food and service was great (the kitchen was amazingly efficient – the courses just clipped along), the best thing about Simpatica was the experience of communal dining. Everyone else around the table happened to be from Portland (one couple was being treated to the meal as Simpatica was a candidate to cater their wedding), and when they found out Mack and I were tourists, they were eager to provide us with dining recommendations. No doubt Portlanders are proud of their food scene!

Pok Pok

Pok Pok is easily Portland’s most famous restaurant. Focusing on serving authentic Thai food, Chef Andy Ricker has been recognized with numerous awards, and has successfully exported the concept to New York. No question, it was number one on my list of establishments we had to visit, just to see what all the hype was about.

When we arrived, we had to wonder whether or not the dining district immediately around the establishment was built up before or after Pok Pok opened (including a late-night food pod across the street, featuring live music and a beer-dispensing truck!). Given their policy of no reservations for parties less than five, it would seem quite lucrative for peripheral restaurants to snap up customers who weren’t willing or able to wait.

Our own wait time numbered fifty minutes, probably not uncommon. But we probably should have been more vocal with the hostess, who seated two small parties before us, and never bothered to offer vacant bar seats to us. It wasn’t the best way to start our Pok Pok experience, but we hoped the food would make up for it.

The menu was unapologetically Thai – from the dish names listed to encouraging diners to share plates with one another. We ordered three dishes (to share, of course). The fried egg salad was a dish recommended by the Globe & Mail – but after trying it, I wondered why. Besides being deceivingly spicy, there was nothing that stood out about it.

The pork belly and shoulder curry was complex and well-balanced, with a nice back heat. The meat was fork tender, and our only quibble was being served the wrong side of rice (jasmine instead of coconut). Our favourite dish was the curried noodle soup, with a delicate house-pressed coconut milk base. I loved the added texture from the crispy noodles.

Dinner at Pok Pok

Service was okay, if a bit inconsistent and breezy. I can only imagine the pressure the servers are under, but everything about our meal felt perfunctory, and never hospitable. Although the food was enjoyable, the experience as a whole was underwhelming.

Produce Row Café

Too late we found out that Olympic Provisions was closed for dinner on Monday nights, so in desperation, we turned to our Frommers guide for a recommendation within walking distance. A few blocks away, we found Produce Row Café, a gastropub tucked in between light industrial buildings.

The interior was warm and inviting, and busier than we expected for such an unassuming storefront. We later discovered that we were right in the midst of happy hour, bursting with enticing drink and food specials. I can say that my fruity bramble (gin + blackberry syrup + lemon) was my favourite drink of the trip.

Mack relaxing at happy hour

Although the food wasn’t exceptional, the comforting dishes hit the spot, and our server was friendly and present. In the wake of the wavering experience at Pok Pok, it reminded us that it never is just about the food.

Corn dog with fries

French onion soup

Clyde Common

Clyde Common has a stellar reputation, and was recommended through a variety of channels, both personal and online. So it was a bit of a shock that it turned out to be our worst meal in recent memory.

We had to wonder if the couple seated next to us knew something we didn’t – they abruptly left after looking at the menu. But everything seemed promising – the beautiful room was anchored by a bar to one side, and a glowing open kitchen on the other. Communal tables made up most of the dining seats.

Interior

Service was brisk and indifferent, but unfortunately, that wasn’t the worst part. The appetizer was okay, but it would have been challenging for any chef to mess up a simple seasonal combination of grilled peaches and marinated tomatoes.

Marinated tomatoes and grilled peaches

My pig’s head ravioli was delivered a good five minutes before Mack’s – neither of us were sure why it wasn’t served alongside his dish. The pasta itself could have used that cooking time – it was tough, rubbery and difficult to eat. The filling was another story, with shards of cartilage sprinkled throughout. Although I recognize the nature of the dish I ordered, being very much a textural eater, the undercooked pasta and cartilage pieces were difficult to handle.

Pig’s head ravioli

Mack’s stuffed trout was also a pretty spectacular failure. The fish itself was cooked well, but that was the end of the accolades. We couldn’t figure out why a stuffed fish wasn’t deboned, as it was impossible to eat. Moreover, the already salty fish was made even more so with a layer of bacon.

Stuffed trout

We don’t have an explanation for why both dishes were so poorly executed, and a scan of reviews indicates an overwhelmingly positive response to Clyde Common. So although we have to assume our experience was an anomaly, we would never return.

Olympic Provisions

Our penultimate dinner brought us back to Olympic Provisions. We had first tasted their salami at a food festival, and knew from that sample that we had to visit the restaurant for a full charcuterie board (one of the “iconic” items on Easter’s list of must-have Portland dishes).

Interior

We loved the glow of the “meat” sign above the open kitchen. The adjacent dining space was dimly lit, but lined with shelves of wine and spirits, felt intimate and comfortable, like we were seated in a cozy den. The vibe was relaxed, but it was clear Olympic Provisions is serious about their meat.

MEAT!

Mack and I shared some cheeses and a chef’s choice board, featuring capicola, a pork and pistachio terrine, pork liver mousse, loukanika and finocchiona. The salami is the best I’ve ever tasted, with the Greek loukanika being my favourite. It had the perfect amount of salt, a great mouth feel, and I loved the cumin flavour. We ended up taking some salami home with us, probably rationing the precious meat for a little too long. I know what I’m filling my bag with the next time we’re down in Portland!

Chef’s choice board

Cheeses

Our server was pleasant and knowledgeable, and we never felt rushed, even as we were approaching their closing hour. I would definitely recommend Olympic Provisions to those visiting Portland.

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