Food Notes for September 11, 2023

Italian Bakery returns to its roots with rebuilt store in Chinatown

The Italian Bakery is finally ready to re-open in Chinatown with a brand-new building.

A fire devastated the original structure in 2020, after the company’s Beverly site had to be rebuilt after a fire in 2016. While undertaking another major construction project so soon was not ideal, owner Rosaly DeVenz said doing so was the only option.

“My parents (founders Antonio and Aurora Frattin) started this bakery here in 1962, and this was their home,” said DeVenz. “We rebuilt it for them.”

Construction was supposed to last only a year, but due to COVID-19, materials shortages, and contractor challenges, the timeline extended to three years. Unfortunately, both Antonio and Aurora passed away in 2022 and were not able to see the final result. The new build at 10644 97 Street NW included a customized apartment unit above the bakery that was intended for them. Still, DeVenz knows her parents would be pleased with the outcome.

“They would be happy that we rebuilt in this neighbourhood and will step up our game,” said DeVenz. “You have to make out of the rubble like a phoenix rising, and make it bigger and better.”

DeVenz is aiming for a soft opening later in September. Although the footprint of the new building is only slightly larger than the previous one, the design has significantly enlarged the retail area. This will allow the location to stock fresh produce, milk, eggs, and more grocery items than before, as well as accommodate a larger deli.

Rosaly DeVenz

Rosaly DeVenz, owner of the Italian Bakery

In addition, DeVenz is excited about an expanded food menu. The bakery’s popular personalized sandwiches will be back, and new dine-in options will include fresh pasta, pizzas, soup, salads, and gelato, all made on-site. The shop will also offer a variety of prepared heat-and-serve meals, made in-house and by other local businesses such as Pazzo Pazzo and Sorrentino’s. While most of the bakery items will be produced at the larger facility in Beverly, DeVenz promised that doughnuts, Danishes, and buns will be made on location.

DeVenz acknowledged that the menu will be somewhat of an experiment at the start, given the business’s lengthy absence from the area. “The neighbourhood’s changed, our clientele has changed,” said DeVenz. “But we hope that bringing new people in through the store might help revitalize Chinatown.”

With that in mind, the shop has increased its seating area for customers, intended for shoppers to enjoy a meal or a drink from the café. “What we’re trying to do is create a place to go sit down and go for coffee,” said DeVenz. “After the pandemic, I think people are missing environments to socialize.”

In an effort to appeal to a broader customer base, DeVenz had an indoor bocce ball court installed. “You have to have ‘Instagrammable moments’ nowadays,” laughed DeVenz. “We wanted to do something different and bring something that instigates memories for people and their families.”

DeVenz is aware that some folks may be avoiding Chinatown because of the negativity surrounding the area. “People shouldn’t be scared,” she said. “The news puts images into people’s minds. This neighbourhood has had a lot of ups and downs. We’re due for an up.”

Openings

  • Smoky Bear has announced that it will be relocating downtown, and their last day of service in the current Old Strathcona location will be October 21. Bella will open in its place, “an Italian (ish) restaurant.  Food inspired by the traditions and culture of Italy cooked with modern techniques and ingredients.  Produce chosen and cooked when it is shining the brightest.  Seasonal vegetables treated simply to showcase the quality.  A selection of handmade pastas made from Alberta flour.  Proteins in large format made for sharing just like at Nona’s table.”
  • Lui-Chi’s has opened a second location at the base of the Stantec Tower downtown.
  • Von’s has re-opened downtown at 10065 Jasper Avenue, Unit 101, in the space that formerly housed State and Main. Von’s had closed the Old Strathcona location earlier this year.

Upcoming Events

  • The next Nosh Food Fest runs September 16-17 in Sherwood Park. More than 100 food and beverage vendors are expected.
  • Workshop Eatery’s Bacon Day will return on September 22, with proceeds going to MS Canada. Tickets are $95 and include access to food and cocktail stations, a giant charcuterie board, and a bacon dessert cook-off between chef Paul Shufelt and a mystery chef.
  • Eats on 118 is back on September 28. Tickets are $60 and include visits to three restaurants.
  • Ice District will be hosting Western Canada’s largest Oktoberfest celebration from September 22-30. It will include a beer hall, German food, vendors, music, and games. Admission is $25.

Local News

What I Ate

  • It has literally been years since I’ve dined in Pho Tau Bay because of the pandemic (we’ve had a lot of take-out, though). It was so great to be back.
  • Pho Tau Bay

My usual at Tau Bay

  • We finally hit up the 124 Street Grand Sunday Market on the weekend, and was happy to see Coast Lunch Box back as a vendor. I love their buttermilk fried chicken sandwich. There are only a few more weeks of outdoor markets left – get out to them if you can!
  • Coast Lunch Box

Coast Lunch Box’s fried chicken sandwich

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