Wine Bars Liven Up Whyte Avenue
Edmonton might be seeing a resurgence in wine bars. Darling, a wine bar focused on natural wines opened in July, while Culina shared news that they will be re-opening their much loved Bibo later this year.
Darling is the brainchild of Justin and Derrick Jones. Justin is an industry veteran, and is currently the general manager of hospitality at Biera. It was there that he was introduced to the idea of natural wines, as the restaurant wanted to ensure the drinks matched the quality of the food they were pairing. “Natural wines involve no intervention,” said Jones. “It’s making wine but not messing with it.” Jones said mass wine producers prioritize consistency above all else, and as a result, add flavouring components, dye, or animal products to ensure bottles taste similar year over year. For Jones, the beauty of wine is to enjoy the nuances imparted by the inconsistencies of farming. “This really is not a new concept,” said Jones. “It dates way back in Europe, but is now becoming a craze in Canada.”
Jones is passionate about sharing his love of natural wines with guests, and so far, Darling’s customers have run the spectrum of those eager to learn to more seasoned wine drinkers keen to see their inventory. “That’s why it’s fun,” said Jones. “We are not pouring wine and walking away – we want to share the story of the winemaker.”
Justin and Derrick had been thinking about opening a permanent restaurant before the pandemic, but things were put on hold in 2020. However, they were approached by their friends, the owners of Take Care Cafe and Weekly Trim True, who asked if they wanted to test the waters in their space in the evenings. As a result, Darling is currently a pop-up, and runs in the cafe and salon from Thursdays to Sundays from 7-11pm. They have indoor and outdoor seating, but Jones has a preference for the latter. “The courtyard is the best part, with 32 seats in the back under the apple tree,” said Jones. “It’s a nice little oasis.”
Food-wise, without proper ventilation in the current space, they are restricted from preparing hot foods. Still, Jones is happy about the curated menu of locally sourced items, which include breads from Brio Bakery and sustainable mussels from Prince Edward Island. “We don’t have complicated items,” said Jones. “Just high quality and tasty things to pair with wine.”
Since Darling opened in July, the community has embraced their concept, and Jones is hoping to find a more permanent home before the snow flies, with the goal to have a full restaurant with natural wines. As he was born and raised in the Ritchie area, he hopes to secure a space in the same community.
Further west down Whyte Avenue is where Bibo will re-open as early as October (Bibo’s Mill Creek location closed back in 2016). Owner Brad Lazarenko was approached by Beljan Development, developers of the Oliver Exchange Building which houses his Culina To Go location. They wanted him to resurrect Bibo in the lobby of the Old Strathcona Hotel. “We’re working on the concept together,” said Lazarenko. “They have a vision for an atrium lobby bar, with very open, high ceilings.” Lazarenko said the plan is for the space to be a café by day, and wine bar at night.
People shouldn’t expect the same Bibo, however. “The aesthetic will be different,” said Lazarenko. “It’s not going to be the same menu.” He teases that Japanese street foods will make an appearance, along with cheese and charcuterie and the option of picking up some Culina To Go-inspired grab-and-go items. “It’s not going to be a place to get big meals,” said Lazarenko. “It will be a place you go before or after dinner.”
For Lazarenko, this shift into Old Strathcona came as a surprise, but the opportunity to work with Beljan again was too good to pass up. “Ten years ago I never would have come to Whyte Avenue, but the area is going through a renaissance,” said Lazarenko. “It has a good energy about it, with good restaurants and lots of good food.”
Back at Darling, Jones agrees that things seem to be building for the area, and he couldn’t be happier to hear that Bibo will join their neck of the woods soon. “It’s amazing because I remember going to Bibo right before it closed,” said Jones. “It was the coolest place with a really smart sommelier who poured me the perfect glass of wine. It’s time to bring back the wine on Whyte Avenue!”
Openings
- The Bar at Fleisch’s expansion opened over the weekend. As mentioned last week, to dine indoors there, proof of vaccination is required.
- Blue Truck Barbecue opened in June, and “offers smoked meats and traditional barbecue in a modern, family friendly space”. Find them at 16336 111 Avenue.
- Tentador Latin Cuisine opened up two months ago at 15184 127 Street, and serves up Latin American favourites.
- Little Brick’s sister restaurants Bread and Butter and Dogpatch in Riverdale are inching closer to opening.
- No Sugar No Problem is a new bakery and goods shop specializing in keto-friendly, sugar and gluten-free products. They are located at 10230 104 Street.
Closures
- After nearly 10 years in operation, Mercer Tavern is closing its doors on August 31, 2021. It will be replaced by Calgary-based Home and Away in time for the start of the hockey season.
Upcoming Events
- You Need a BBQ in Sherwood Park is celebrating its one year anniversary with the Bangers & Beer YEG Sausage Battle on September 12, 2021. Butchers and chefs will compete for your vote for the best sausage, and ticket proceeds will go towards funding Team Canada’s trip to the World Butcher Challenge in Sacramento. Tickets are $25 plus fees.
Local News
- The Dapper Beaver celebrated its one year roasting anniversary, and in that time, has donated $17,000 in cash or in-kind products to local charities.
- If you’re trying to make the most of summer, consider using the 124 Street Business Improvement Area’s patio guide.
- Additions to Edify’s Best Things to Eat list include jollof rice from Monamie Resto and steak a la tartare from Bistro Praha.
- Phil’s most recent CBC best dishes column focused on products found at The Butchery by RGE RD.
- RGE RD’s Blair Lebsack did an interview with CBC about the ups and downs of operating a restaurant through the pandemic.
- Twyla’s Edmonton AM column continues on the topic of seasonal eating.
- Bodega’s Sherwood Park location has already been embraced by the community.
- This listicle rounds up 15 places for bubble tea in Edmonton.
- The Sari Sari Market highlights Filipinx creatives, artists, and entrepreneurs.
- A liqueur made with distilled Alberta peas from Field Notes is now available throughout Alberta.
- This year’s drought could result in high beef prices for the next two or three years.
- The Edmonton Youth Council released a report recommending ways the city can better address food insecurity through managing food waste.
Urban Agriculture and Farming
- The Edmonton Urban Farm (formerly the Northlands Urban Farm) doubled in size this year.
- Annelida was the first worm farm to participate in Open Farm Days.
- The Edmonton Metropolitan Regional Board passed the Regional Agriculture Master Plan last week.
What I Ate