Food Notes for March 29, 2021

Hotel Macdonald To Launch Its First Pop-Up Restaurant

There is no doubt the hospitality industry has been forced to be innovative during the pandemic. The restaurants inside the historic Fairmont Hotel Macdonald have been no different, pivoting to curbside pick-up, producing pantry staples, and organizing socially-distanced outdoor events to sustain business.

Next month, they’re launching their first ever pop-up restaurant, called Ephemeral. Running over two weekends, April 15-17 and April 22-24, 2021, the Mac has partnered with Edmonton artist Giselle Denis, florist FaBLOOMosity, and Special Event Rentals to evoke a “magical garden sanctuary” in the Wedgewood Room. Guests will enjoy a 4-course meal and two signature cocktails inspired by the floral art and the promise of spring. Tickets are $159 per person, and as with all indoor dining, guests must be from the same household, or the 2 close contacts of a person living alone, in order to dine together.

Danielle Lundy, the Director of Sales & Marketing for the hotel, notes that it was the change in season that ultimately led to this pop-up. “We’ve infused this feeling of renewal into every part of Ephemeral, from the elaborate floral décor, to the forest landscape paintings to our nature inspired menu,” she said.

Executive Chef Jiju Paul embraced the challenge of creating a meal reflective of spring. “Chef Paul’s background growing up on a farm has imparted a deep appreciation for farm to table [and incorporating] fresh ingredients into his cooking style which is a perfect inspiration for this menu,” said Lundy. She promises that the dessert in particular will be an “absolute showstopper.”

Lundy said that the response to Ephemeral has been positive so far, with some seatings nearly sold out. Two other pop-up concepts are in the works.

COVID-19-related News

Openings

  • Edmonton’s first location of Canadian chain Leopold’s Tavern, located in the renovated Strathcona Hotel, is now open. Find them at 10328 82 Avenue.
  • Alberta’s first location of Canadian restaurant chain Pür & Simple opens on March 30, 2021 in Kingsway Mall. They offer brunch, breakfast, and lunch.
  • Edmonton will soon have its first Japanese bakery cafe in Old Strathcona, offering “the best cheese tart in Japan”. Pablo Cheese Tart will open in the spring at 10163 81 Avenue.
  • The Poppy Barn Cafe is now open at #100B, 10235 124 Street.
  • Indian Fusion has relocated to Old Strathcona, in the space formerly occupied by The King and I (8208 107 Street).
  • 70 Acre Brew Co., Strathcona County’s first brewery, is set to open in April.

Local News

Beyond Edmonton

  • Alberta Food Tours relaunched their Alberta Food Finder app in March. Described as an “escape room meets self-guided food tour”, it offers a socially-distanced way to explore the neighbourhood of Kensington in Calgary.

Urban Agriculture and Farming

What I Ate

  • We feel refreshed after a return to our favourite local getaway, The Prairie Creek Inn, near Rocky Mountain House. Their breakfasts (delivered to our suite) are always such a treat, especially when enjoyed amongst beautiful scenery.

Prairie Creek Inn

Breakfast from The Prairie Creek Inn

  • The staycations over the last year have allowed us to support local businesses in a different way (and to excuse me from doing the cooking!). We brought most of our food again on this trip; I love all of the heat-and-eat products available even now, a year into the pandemic. Pictured:  soups from Drift, pasta and chicken parmesan from Amore Pasta, ramen from Dorinku Osaka, pork adobo from Filistix, and hot dogs from YEG Smoked Meats.

Staycation Provisions

Staycation provisions

Food Notes for March 22, 2021

Hospitality Workers Call for Vaccination Priority

The Edmonton Independent Hospitality Community (EIHC) and the Alberta Hospitality Association released open letters calling on the Government of Alberta to prioritize hospitality workers in the COVID-19 vaccine roll-out. From the EIHC letter:

“Without mandatory rated PPE for hospitality workers in Alberta, the increased risk of being indoors with unmasked patrons for prolonged periods of time poses a significant risk that can not be overstated.”

On March 22, during Chief Medical Officer of Health Dr. Deena Hinshaw’s regular briefing, she shared instances of restaurants being the site of outbreaks:

“We have seen, for example, very rapid spread in some restaurants where individuals had the variant, were infectious, went to multiple restaurants and spread the virus very quickly in multiple locations in one night.”

In other provinces, including Ontario and Prince Edward Island, restaurant workers will be included in phase two vaccinations.

At present, if Alberta hospitality workers do not have a chronic condition or are above a certain age, they will have to wait until phase three for a vaccine, in spring or early summer.

COVID-19-related News

Openings

  • Banh Mi Cali, offering California-inspired Vietnamese sandwiches, is now open at 10503 Kingsway Avenue.
  • Canadian chain Pur & Simple will be opening up their first Alberta location in Kingsway Mall.
  • It looks like Hoang Long is moving into the space vacated by Prairie Noodle on 124 Street.
  • Ghost kitchen Katsu, operated by SoJu, is now open, serving up breaded and fried meat and seafood.

Upcoming Events

Local News

  • Yelp released their Top 100 Places to Eat in Canada list, sourced from their online community. Edmonton ended up with six restaurants on the list, including Battista’s Calzones, the Italian Centre Shop, The Bedouins, Padmanadi, An Chay, and Hathaway’s Diner. The owner of Battista’s Calzones was floored they made #45 on the list.
  • CBC Radioactive’s latest Best Dishes column focuses on sweet treats available from CH. Cafeteria.
  • The Journal profiled micro-meadery Stolen Harvest, based in Grovedale, Alberta.
  • Siu To, operator of Green Onion Cake Man and the person who is credited with introducing the green onion cake to Edmonton, received some exposure from American food writer Mark Bittman.
  • In the wake of the shootings in Georgia last week, there continues to be discussion about racism towards Asian communities, overt and otherwise. Chef Mai Nguyen posted about one example of this, surrounding the campaigns against and perceptions of MSG.
  • Congratulations to Cask and Barrel, who is marking their ninth year in business this April!
  • NOSH Food Fest, which ran over the weekend in Sherwood Park, was a success. Organizers are planning another event in September.
  • It’ll be interesting to see if businesses like EasyRoutes, which helped design efficient routes for Uproot Food Collective’s delivery drivers, will become more commonplace.
  • Uber Eats has expanded its services to Spruce Grove.
  • More grocery stores in walkable areas are always welcome: a “boutique-style” Safeway will be taking over the former Planet Organic location on Jasper Avenue and 122 Street, while Ottewell residents are joyful about the No Frills that opened in their community.
  • The first FreshCo (the discount chain of the Sobeys/Safeway brand) opened in Edmonton last week at 2011 111 Street.

What I Ate

  • Mack and I have been trying to build in the occasional breakfast and lunch dates as daytimes are the only time we have to ourselves. Last week, we grabbed lunch from MilkCrate – the poutine was the star of the show; I am still thinking about that gravy!

MilkCrate

Sandwiches and poutine from MilkCrate

  • I had forgotten just how much I missed picnics until our first one this year. On Friday, we picked up Eats on 118 take-out from Flava Cafe and Green Onion Cake Man to enjoy at Eastwood Park – everything tastes better al fresco!

Flava Cafe and Green Onion Cake Man

Take-out from Flava Cafe and Green Onion Cake Man

  • We also grabbed a bag of bagels from Green Onion Cake Man – it’s an interesting pandemic pivot from a restaurant serving Chinese cuisine, but the bagels weren’t bad. Plain, but it had a pleasant chew.

Green Onion Cake Man

Green Onion Cake Man bagels

Food Notes for March 15, 2021

Food Festivals Cautiously Optimistic About the Summer

On the heels of a sold-out Flying Canoe Volant this year, it’s clear Edmontonians will be eager for opportunities to gather and enjoy the outdoors, especially as temperatures rise.

The two largest food-related festivals, the Taste of Edmonton and Heritage Festival, have not yet received the green light to proceed this summer. But organizers of both events are ready to modify their plans based on public health guidelines.

Taste of Edmonton had planned to return to Churchill Square from July 22 – August 1, 2021, and already put out a call for food truck vendors in January. Events Edmonton General Manager Donovan Vienneau is confident the area can safely accommodate patrons:

"We’ve got a rather large space, probably the biggest in history. We’ve also implemented a six-foot gap between each of the restaurant tents.”

The Heritage Festival is more optimistic, posting, “There is hope. It was dim a while ago but the chances of us moving ahead are growing.” Executive Director Jim Gibbons indicated they are also planning for a socially-distanced event July 29-August 1, 2021, with ticketing moving entirely online, and the necessary spacing across the park:

“We’re going to keep the number of pavilions down. People will be much more spread out, for sure, if they’re on site.”

Permission to operate the festivals will require approval from the City of Edmonton, Alberta Health Services, and the province.

COVID-19-related News

  • It’s great to see restaurants be as transparent as possible in these times – one example is Baijiu, who chose to close when a staff member was experiencing COVID symptoms; they re-opened several days later. Similarly, Kind Ice Cream closed while awaiting test results of a close contact, and re-opened a couple of days later.
  • The Next Act, Meat, and Pip all re-opened to dine-in service in early March. Cafe Bicyclette re-opened for regular service on March 9 after being closed since late November.
  • The folks behind Vintage Fork were forced to pivot – first to pizza, then to online tea sales – when their Rutherford House-based restaurant was forced to close last year.

Openings

Closures

Upcoming Events

  • Bartender James Grant is hosting more virtual cocktail tastings on March 19-20 and April 8-9, 2021. The $60 accompanying kits can be picked up or delivered.
  • Wholly Handmade is hosting Nosh Food Fest on March 20, 2021 at The Agora in Sherwood Park.
  • Save the date for A Taste of Al Fresco, on from March 27-28, 2021. A part of Downtown Spark, a festival happening in March and April, the event will include extended restaurant patios, $15-25 food and drink deals, and a Hot Bevvy Showdown.

Local News

Urban Agriculture and Farming

What I Ate

  • We picked up some comfort food for dinner from Coliseum Steak & Pizza, part of the Eats on 118 event on until the end of March. The lasagna, Caesar salad, and garlic toast was just $15 (though we chose to upsize with meatballs). It hit the spot!

Coliseum Steak and Pizza

Coliseum Steak & Pizza Eats on 118 deal

  • It seemed like too beautiful of a weekend to not indulge in some gelato, so we walked over to La Carraia for a sweet treat.

La Carraia

Emily enjoyed her strawberry gelato

Food Notes for March 8, 2021

Cartago Announces Permanent Closure

Last week, Forest Heights restaurant Cartago announced that after three years, it is permanently closed.

“After an incredibly challenging year, we are proud to know that we did everything we could to put our employees and our community’s safety first.”

Back in November when COVID-19 community transmission numbers were escalating, Cartago was among the first of a small group of restaurants to voluntarily close their doors to indoor dining. Since then, co-owner of Cartago Katy Ingraham has been active on social media advocating against indoor dining until conditions are made safer for hospitality staff and patrons. Fleisch, Cartago’s sister deli business, will remain open (for take-out only), but it was a series of challenges that led to this closure.

“When we shutdown March 15, 2020 we were about a month away from completion on our other business Fleisch,” said Ingraham. “Any government support that existed to attempt to help businesses through this crisis does not exist for new businesses [that] opened in 2020. When we reopened to the public in June 2020 and opened Fleisch for the first time, we were paying to complete the project and the expenses of two businesses while only receiving support for one of them.”

Ingraham also explained that the government support is largely credit-based, meaning that taking on the additional debt to help both businesses survive soon became “untenable.”

Ingraham said Cartago was too far gone to even consider re-opening for in-person dining when restrictions lifted in February, but more than that, she believes the COVID-19 variants and high risk of exposure to staff and the community made it an easy decision to remain closed to indoor service.

She is a part of a local group called Go4zero, which consists of doctors, scientists, biologists, business owners and community stakeholders. They have put together recommendations to improve the safety of maskless people indoors, such as having doors and windows open, HEPA filters, C02 monitors, and the use of K95 respirators. “A sore spot for me,” said Ingraham, “is that the provincial government has not updated their sector guidelines since September 2020 and there are no recommendations regarding ventilation for hospitality businesses open to dine in.”

Ingraham is confident that Fleisch will be able to adapt to community needs, but she is not optimistic about the local food scene as a whole. As a co-founder of The Edmonton Independent Hospitality Community, she sees the stress in the industry. “I think that most operators are faced with incurring more debt if they’re able or closing and the window to stop the bleed is closing rapidly,” she said.

COVID-19-related News

Openings

Upcoming Events

  • Geoscapes is running at Victoria Golf Course from March 4-April 8, 2021, with domes set up for private dining. Eight guest chefs are participating, including Lindsay Porter, Paul Shufelt, and Shane Chartrand. Tickets start at $250 for two people.
  • Leftovers YEG is hosting a webinar exploring food waste in Edmonton on March 10, 2021.
  • An Edible School Yards webinar on March 10, 2021 will answer the question: how can schools contribute to climate change mitigation, educational opportunities, and helping stop school hunger? Join permaculture and educators to learn more about how schools can help meet the goals of the Edmonton City Plan.

Local News

Beyond Edmonton

  • Top Chef Canada returns for a ninth season on April 19, 2021, but again without any Edmonton representation. There are two chefs from Calgary amongst the competitors.

What I Ate

  • Mack and I planned a breakfast date last week, which doubled as an excuse to try the breakfast sandwich from Rosewood Foods. As with everything else on their menu, it was delicious!

Rosewood Foods

Sausage, egg, and cheese sandwich from Rosewood

  • We’ve been meaning to try a family meal from Little Village for ages, and finally did so on the weekend. It didn’t disappoint – we loved the tender lamb shank and all the fixings.

Little Village

Braised lamb shank feast from Little Village

  • After picking up our Little Village order, we also popped into ch. cafeteria on the same street for a pick-me-up.

CH Cafeteria

Coffee dates

  • It’s so great that Food Network Canada’s Big Food Bucket List exposed more people to the gem that is Zwick’s Pretzels, but I’m also glad they accept pre-orders so when I’m hankering for some pretzels it’s a quick trip in and out!

Zwick’s Pretzels

Zwick’s Pretzels

Food Notes for March 1, 2021

King Noodle House Announces Forthcoming Closure

Last week, the family behind King Noodle House Pho Hoang announced that their building has been listed for sale and they are preparing for the closure of the restaurant.

Unfortunately, owners Hoa Sen Dao and Tan Hoang (also known to regulars as the “Moustache Man”) weathered the worst year of business in their 26 years of operation, and shared that the pandemic accelerated their retirement plans.

Their noodle soups have been a fixture in the local food scene since 1995, simmered for up to fourteen hours per day. King Noodle’s soup recipe had been passed down for three generations, and though their three children had discussed the possibility of taking over the business one day, the couple had been adamant this wasn’t what they wanted.

“It is bittersweet for the whole family to see the legacy come to an end,” said Linda Hoang, daughter of Hoa Sen and Tan. “Our parents didn’t want any of the kids to take over the restaurant because the last 26 years of business have been so challenging for them in terms of very long work hours, poor work/life balance, and just general restaurant industry stress and hardships—they worked hard in the hopes that their kids wouldn’t need to work as hard.”

Unlike Hathaway’s Diner, who posted their restaurant for sale last February with the hope that someone would want to take over the business, King Noodle House wants to keep their recipes in the family. “It was very important to us to ensure only family would take over the actual restaurant, recipes,” said Linda Hoang. “We are hopeful that even after the building sells, there would be opportunities in the future for pho pop ups and other ways to keep the legacy and recipes in Edmonton.”

As the restaurant closure will depend on the speed at which the building is purchased, the early announcement provides ample notice for those hoping for one last bowl of soup before the doors close for the last time. “It could be two years, it could be two months,” Tan Hoang said.

COVID-19-related News

  • HanJan’s Oliver location had a staff test positive for COVID-19, but found it frustrating that Alberta Health Services was not able to provide clear instructions on next steps for their other staff and business operations.
  • Katy Ingraham of Cartago and Fleisch continues to advocate against indoor dining in spaces with poor ventilation.
  • The Journal covered Tiramisu Bistro’s outdoor heated dining domes, while CTV covered some additional outdoor dining spaces, including Little Brick and the Courtyard Marriot.
  • Lynsae Moon of The Nook Cafe opened up on Instagram on the challenge of keeping her social media accounts active and engaged, “This has been challenging for me to reconcile as I have this narrative telling me I can do it all and this capitalistic idea of productivity eating away at me but the truth is I don’t have the capacity to show up 100% in every area right now.”
  • Alberta Health Services is no longer pursuing legal action against a small town cafe in Mirror, Alberta which defied public health orders by re-opening for dine-in services back in January. In addition, AHS is paying for the legal costs incurred by the restaurant.

Openings

  • Shree Restaurant promises a “modern Indian gourmet experience”. They opened on February 25, 2021 at 5025 Mullen Road.
  • XO Bistro opened up their second location on the south side at 5021 Mullen Road.
  • Downtown has added another Mexican restaurant called Maria which shares a kitchen with Haweli at 10220 103 Street.
  • Barcelos, an international Peri chicken chain not unlike Nando’s, is adding to its Edmonton area locations with a second restaurant in the Windermere Currents (6189 Currents Drive SW).
  • Chain quick-serve strEATS Kitchen serving up “globally inspired street foods” is now open in Oliver at 11327 104 Avenue.
  • International ghost kitchen concepts continue to proliferate – the latest is Man vs Fries.
  • Awn Kitchen Workshop + Cafe will be opening up later this spring in Landsdowne at 104, 5124 122 Street.

Upcoming Events

  • Save Hospitality is hosting LocalLicious! from February 25-March 7, 2021, with participating restaurants offering 3-course menus and donating $1 from each menu to a charity. Braven is the only local participant.
  • The menus for Eats on 118, running March 1-31, 2021, are now live. Half of the Tour and Taste boxes are sold out, so if you’re keen on one, don’t wait!
  • You Need a BBQ! posted their schedule of spring/summer classes, some of which are already sold out! There is still room in their upcoming Ultimate Steak Class on May 15, 2021.
  • Eats on 118 organizers are also planning a long table outdoor dinner for June 19, 2021, with 8+ participating restaurants. Tickets are $118.

Local News

Beyond Edmonton

  • One of the biggest stories was about butter: specifically, because of Julie van Rosendaal’s excellent reporting about palm oil supplements in the feed of dairy cows. There have been some deniers, but as a whole, the industry has started to pay attention. And in the meantime, if you’re looking for palm oil-less butter locally, head to RGE RD.

What I Ate

  • My Toronto-based sister surprised me on Friday with a Doughnut Party delivery. I maintain that one of the silver linings of the pandemic is the increased availability and sharing of food-based care packages.

Doughnut Party

Doughnut Party delivery

  • Our last #yegdt #AdoptAShopYEG was take-out from Tres Carnales Rostizado, including this amazing pizzadilla (pizza +quesadilla). We loved the how the layers of house-made flour tortilla, braised short rib, cheese, and crema came together.

Tres Carnales Rostizado

Pizzadilla from Tres Carnales Rostizado