Downtown Dining Wealth: Woodwork

When Amanda and I walked into Woodwork for the first time, we both were struck by how much the restaurant reminded us of Toronto. Located in a heritage building, with a serious cocktail menu and a high hipster quotient, the only thing that grounded us in Edmonton was the reality that spaces in Toronto are much more narrow.

Woodwork is a collaboration between Chef Mike Scorgie of the Nomad Food Truck, and Barman Andrew Borley of the Volstead Act. It’s been a long time coming for the restaurant – they celebrated the start of construction with a pig roast pop-up back in April, and after assembling a bar and restaurant from scratch, Woodwork opened its doors in December.

As a downtown resident, it’s always heartening to see a restaurant like Woodwork open up in the neighbourhood. It’s these unique businesses that draw clientele from across the city because their take on food and drink cannot be found anywhere else. Adding to an immediate area already populated with Corso 32 and Tres Carnales, I’m not ashamed to say – keep the dining wealth coming!

I’ve been to Woodwork twice already. Once, on a Sunday in late December with a girlfriend, and more recently, last Friday with my family. Both times it was busy, buzzing with the energy that comes with being the newest kid on the block. Décor was minimal, which further showcases both their impressive bar and open kitchen. Mack also commented that their neon sign, coloured blue, also lends a soft, complementary glow to the entrance.

Stacked bar

Since my first visit, Woodwork has made some changes to help manage the temperature of the space. Seated by the front on both occasions, the installation of a door closure and an overhead heater made a noticeable difference. That said, an L-shaped glass partition would do wonders to direct the chill away from the tables – this is definitely a challenge we face in our winter city!

With their attention to detail in everything from the selection of spirits to their ice-making process, Woodwork is raising the bar with their drinks menu. I appreciated the description under each of their creations, and the range of cocktails available (i.e., a take on the Old Fashioned for Mack and sweeter concoctions for me).

Round one

As found on many on-trend menus, there is the option to order snacks, in addition to the usual smaller and large plates, sides and desserts. With May, we decided to sample the smaller dishes. On vacation detox, I ordered the brassica salad ($13), a tasty combination of kale, charred cauliflower, tomato, aged cheese and a poached egg. I loved the pickled onions, and my only nitpick was for the kale to have been torn into smaller pieces.

Brassica salad

The Nomad baked beans, topped with charred pepper crème fraiche ($11) was a much larger serving than I was expecting. Though I could have used more bread, the beans had a nice sweetness. As a bonus, the leftovers made a great lazy lunch the next day.

Nomad baked beans

May’s smoked chicken drumsticks ($8) was an equally generous serving (classified as a “snack”, after all), and she enjoyed them well enough. The chowder St. Jacques ($13) was her favourite, containing a well-cooked scallop and a cheddar biscuit. The shallow bowl made it more challenging to slurp up every bite, but it was worth it!

Smoked chicken drumsticks

Chowder St. Jacques

With my family, we shared a few sides, including the Saskatchewan yellow grits ($11) with red eye gravy and the mac n’ cheese ($14). The latter was no doubt their most popular truck offering, so we knew it had to make an appearance on their regular menu. In the restaurant, it has been upgraded to a cast-iron pan, piled high with pork crackling. It definitely had more heat than I remembered, but there were favourable comments all around.

Mac n’ cheese

The Toulouse for two ($29) consisted of sausage seasoned only with salt and pepper and Parisienne potatoes in a pork and onion reduction. This was my favourite dish; the kitchen was able to coax great flavour out of what could otherwise be a very basic item.

Toulouse for two

My sister’s confit of pork shoulder ($22) was gone before we knew it, flaked apart with her fork alone. And for someone who doesn’t usually like lentils, she finished all of the yolk-flecked side without complaint.

Confit of pork shoulder

Mack’s hangar steak ($24) was a slight disappointment. Cooked close to well-done (as opposed to the promised medium rare), the steak could have been more charred, and less chewy. He did appreciate the beurre bercy, a butter containing reduced wine and shallots.

Hangar steak

Thankfully, the kitchen wasn’t out of the peanut butter, chocolate and raspberry thang ($9) on my second visit. I’m not sure the presentation was appealing for me (given I’d just eaten the similarly shaped Toulouse), but the whipped peanut butter was delicious. Perhaps a mason jar could be used for serving, to visually denote the layers of flavour?

Peanut butter, chocolate and raspberry thang

Service on both occasions was great, warm and friendly. It was busy throughout the evening, but we were never lost in the shuffle, and did not feel rushed.

This is just the beginning for Woodwork – with a solid menu of food and drinks, I look forward to watching this restaurant evolve with the seasons and become a fixture of the downtown restaurant scene.

Woodwork
10132 100 Street
(780) 757-4100
Monday-Tuesday, Wednesday 11am-12am, Friday 11am-late, Saturday 5pm-late, Sunday 5pm-12am, closed Wednesdays

Alberta Avenue Adventures: Elm Café and Deep Freeze Festival

It’s been some time since Mack and I have had a brunch date, so earlier today, we sought to rectify that. I caught an Elm Café tweet that their Alberta Avenue dining room would be hosting brunch this weekend; given we were heading to the Deep Freeze Festival later anyway, it made sense to start off our day there.

Although the Elm Café dining room doesn’t offer meals on a regular basis, they’re worth looking out for. Our last visit involved a variety of Austrian dumplings, and this time, a straightforward, but satisfying brunch menu.

The expansive windows also illuminated the room well, and its street-level windows lent itself to people watching.

Dining room

Mack and I shared the buttermilk biscuit ($4), warmed and served with stone fruit jam and butter. If we hadn’t agreed to split the order initially, I think we would have wound up fighting over the scraps!

Buttermilk biscuit

The caramel apple French toast ($14) was decidedly even richer with a layer of Irvings bacon. I loved the finishing touch of crisp matchstick apples.

Caramel apple French toast

Mack’s corned beef hash ($14) was made up of some of his favourite things. He found the house-made corned beef particularly tasty, and appreciated the sweetness of the peppers.

Corned beef hash

Allan (who was in the kitchen this morning) was sweet enough to make us an extra treat too.

Mini tarts with yogurt and rhubarb compote

The leisurely brunch was just what we wanted – hopefully we can look forward to more festival meal pairings in the future!

Afterwards, we walked outside to explore the Deep Freeze Festival. Over the years, it has become our favourite winter festival – the range of activities appeal to visitors young and old, and with displays, games, music, and old fashioned outdoor fun, there is no shortage of things to see and do.

Cabane a sucre

Ice carvers at work

The festival organizers did a great job of improving the layout this year, by putting the thaw hut competition and deep freezer races right along 118 Avenue, encouraging even more walk-by traffic.

Dustin Bajer in his thaw hut entry (constructed with Paul Giang)

Deep freezer race!

As in past years as well, I appreciate that the audio of the indoor musical performances are piped outdoors, tying the different spaces together and providing a common soundtrack for the event.

The always popular ice slide

This year’s viking theme was visually prevalent throughout the festival, though I have to say my favourite incarnation was the stunning ice-carved viking ship that functioned as the outdoor concession stand.

Streetpole art

Ice bar

Kids at heart, Mack and I took advantage of the wagon rides, always a great vantage point to admire the neighbourhood’s tree-lined streets.

Beautiful horses

Wagon ride

Congratulations to the organizers for what looks to be another successful year!

Check out Mack’s post on Deep Freeze for a video overview of what to expect!

Recap: Hawkers Market Edmonton

The first ever Hawkers Market in Edmonton took place on Saturday, November 30 in the basement of the Mercer Warehouse (otherwise known as Vacancy Hall). Originating in Vancouver, Hawkers Market intends to “create a space where vibrant and exciting local food can be discovered…a place to conduct commerce, rapidly test ideas and meet customers face to face.” As a result, I expected the event to be similar in nature to the Toronto Underground Market I attended last year, which is set-up as an opportunity for start-up food businesses to grow and make a name for themselves in a competitive market. No doubt, one of the busiest vendors at TUM that night was La Carnita, which is now one of the most popular taquerias in Toronto.

Hawkers Market

Mack and I were given free admission tickets, but I did purchase two $10 advance tickets for my sisters. Menus weren’t available in advance, but when we arrived, we found that food averaged between $5-7.

With my sisters

Given it was Hawkers Market’s first time in Edmonton, a few hiccups were to be expected. For one, the start time was 5pm, though this was inconsistent on some of the advertised Eventbrite information. As well, with some power issues and poor ventilation, it will be interesting to see if Vacancy Hall will continue to host this event.

Getting busy

Eight vendors were set up along the periphery of the room, with a DJ adding to the party atmosphere. Though we were somewhat surprised to see that five of the vendors were existing or soon-to-be food truck operators, in a way, the timing perfectly complements the food truck off-season. That said, we were hoping to see more newly-established businesses, but I am guessing this will come as word spreads about Hawkers Market.

The Bully Food Truck team!

Drift’s mini truck replica greeted guests walking in, but perhaps even more enticing was their menu offering, a Burmese dish of khao swe ($5). One of Nevin’s family recipes, the coconut chicken noodles were served up and ready to be customized with an assortment of toppings: green onions, cilantro, fried onions, chickpea chips and sticks, boiled egg, lemon and red chili flakes. It was fun to make the dish to our taste, delectable as it already was.

Mini Drift!

Khao swe from Drift

Notably, Drift was also selling their signature ketchup and spice, nicely packaged for holiday giving. If you missed it, you can now pick up the products at Acme Meats!

Give the gift of Drift

Amanda high-tailed it pretty quick to Sailin’ On, her favourite food truck. We shared an order of chili-lime tofu tacos ($9), with refried beans, vegan cheddar, veggies, salsa verde and lime. She wasn’t disappointed with her pick.

Chili-lime tofu tacos from Sailin’ On

I didn’t expect a restaurant like XIX Nineteen to participate in Hawkers Market, though in hindsight, it was an opportunity to interact with a whole new group of potential patrons. Felicia ordered a dish of rabbit and gnocchi poutine ($5 without the meat) to try. It was a creative dish well-suited to the environment it was being cooked and served in, and the gnocchi was tasty in and of itself.

Gnocchi poutine from XIX Nineteen

In that same vein, Casa Doce, a food truck which has mostly operated in Sherwood Park this past year, showcased their Mexican cuisine to a different audience. We tried their jalapeno and queso fresco tamale ($5), topped with beans and pickled onions. It was piping hot, and definitely meant to be shared by a group.

Tamale from Casa Doce

It was exciting to see two brand new vendors launching at Hawkers Market who don’t yet already have an existing storefront or truck. Parts & Service is a forthcoming food truck, their name inspired by some of the off-cuts of meat they will be using. That night, they were serving up duck confit and roasted bone marrow ($5); we ordered the latter. Served with crostini and topped with fennel salsa, it was a memorable dish that immediately set them apart from other trucks.

Roasted bone marrow from Parts & Service

Unfortunately, we missed sampling the dessert from Paper Bag Donuts, courtesy of Red Ox Inn’s Sean O’Connor. To be honest, I saw a tiny sign with the letters “PBD” on the corner, but didn’t investigate any further – our loss. Hopefully Paper Bag Donuts pops-up again soon!

The one vendor that wasn’t quite like the others was South Island Pie Company, which had presence at the City Market this summer. They weren’t sampling any products, and instead, were selling frozen pies for takeaway. We did pick up a pair on our way out, as we were heading home and could stash them in our freezer, but given they were the odd booth out, we hoped they were successful through the night.

South Island Pie Company

So while the majority of the vendors weren’t necessarily new, I think Hawkers Market still accomplished their mission of increasing the exposure of small food businesses. It sounds like a second Hawkers Market is scheduled for February 22, 2014, so keep an eye out for more details!

The Personal Touch: Hathaway’s Diner

Mack and I often deplore the state of brunch in Edmonton – when asked for brunch recommendations, we’re often hard pressed to suggest hometown favourites; it’s much easier for us to defer to our go-to spots in Calgary. That said, after visiting Hathaway’s Diner this summer, we can confidently say that with a few more gems like this one, Edmonton’s brunch scene would be well on its way.

Of course, Hathaway’s Diner is far from new. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve driven past it, given it’s a stone’s throw away from where Mack’s grandparents live. Tucked in a non-descript strip mall inside the neighbourhood of Wellington, it’s definitely not a restaurant likely to be stumbled upon. But that’s what makes it even more special.

Mack at Hathaway’s Diner

On a Saturday morning (Hathaway’s is closed on Sundays), the restaurant was busy, but not full. The interior was charming enough, with checkered floors and a wood counter complete with a built-in pie case. The only hiccup that day was an initial delay in getting our order taken, but after that, the service we received was some of the best we’ve encountered at breakfast in Edmonton.

Pam was the ultimate hostess. She was warm, and spent enough time with each table so diners felt welcomed and at home. Her personal touch, such as telling us that she “married her husband for his pancakes” made the experience much more memorable than most.

The food was great, too. I ordered the breakfast special with sausage ($7.99), and the pancakes lived up to expectations, light and airy with a touch of sweetness. Mack also enjoyed his eggs benedict (served only on Saturdays), and especially appreciated the spot on coffee refills throughout our meal.

Breakfast special

Eggs benedict

I’m already looking forward to my next visit to Hathaway’s Diner – and not just for the food.

Hathaway’s Diner
13225 – 132 street
(780) 488-5989
Tuesday-Saturday, 7am-4pm, closed Sunday and Monday

Battledish: Voting with your Stomach

On October 5, 2013, Edmonton played host to Battledish, a food competition organized by the local Dishcrawl affiliate. Similar to their namesake events, diners would be able to sample multiple dishes from restaurants within walking distance of one another with one added bonus: they would be able to vote for their favourites. Categories ranged from “best cocktail” to “most delicious”; the balloted nature of the outing was definitely part of the fun.

I was amongst several judges that day, though Mack purchased a ticket so I wouldn’t have to indulge alone. We met the organizers at Beaver Hills House Park where we were handed a map, a ballot, food/drink tickets, and even some food to get us started!

Battledish map

Though being able to provide patrons with a full experience (service, restaurant amenities, etc.)would have benefited participating restaurants the most, it was kind of some establishments to be a part of the day in whatever way possible. This was the case for V Sandwiches, which had provided lemongrass chicken and lemongrass tofu banh mi prepped and ready to take away, as well as a number of cupcake eateries, having supplied boxes of beautifully packaged treats. Had we known about this abundance of food at the start, we would have come prepared with carry out containers.

Cupcakes!

We ended up dropping off some of the food at our condo down the street before setting off on the Battledish journey – definitely one of the benefits of living so close to the action!

With four restaurants to visit that afternoon, we started with the one closest to home – The Burg. In a way, it was the best place to begin, as it set the bar quite low. Not only did it take half an hour to receive our food, but it was also clear the jalapeno sauce had been sitting on the plate for some time.

Braised pork belly and mac and cheese ball

Given The Burg has been inconsistent in the past, it was disappointing that they weren’t able to leave a positive impression at an event meant to stimulate future business.

We were confident that our next stop, Hundred Bar + Kitchen, wouldn’t let us down, and we were right. The restaurant had opened early just for the event, so it made Battledish passholders feel a little like VIPs.

Mack does his best impression of a VIP

Both the cocktail and dish at Hundred were winners in my book. I loved the refreshingly sweet Dude Fizz , and the house-made kimchi in the pork belly sandwich was a spicy, crunchy surprise.

Pork belly sandwich and Dude Fizz

Over at LUX, things were a little busier, no doubt because Alley Kat had set up a beer tasting stop there. Between the flights of beer and the Don Draper-approved Old Fashioned, we weren’t sure we’d make it to the last stop.

Old Fashioned

We eventually did, but only after we tried the ultimate slider, a burger stacked with an onion ring, bacon, and mushrooms, among other things. It was as difficult to eat as you’d imagine, but with a spicy beef patty and a variety of textures, it won my vote for “most delicious” that day.

Ultimate slider

We ended our day at Haweli. If you can believe it, the Indian restaurant was offering a buffet featuring six items. Given the food tickets for the event cost just $5 each, the buffet alone more than made the admission cost worthwhile.

Our fill at Haweli

That said, it was difficult to judge Haweli by comparison, given they offered so many dishes to choose from. The butter chicken was pretty tasty though!

We were more than stuffed by the end of the day – the cupcakes ended up making up most of our supper that night.

The final results came in a few days later, and I’m happy to say my votes weren’t too far off:

Best Cocktail: Pimms Number One Cup, The Burg
Most Authentic: Indian Buffet, Haweli
Most Modern: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar
Most Creative: Mac and Cheese Balls, The Burg
Most Delicious: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar

Thanks to Gemma for having me as one of the judges at the inaugural Battledish, and congratulations on a well-organized event! It looks like the event was such a success, it has spawned Cocktail Wars, taking place this December. Can you think of a better way to kick off your holiday season? Stay tuned.

Check out reviews from my fellow judges Andrea and Cheryl too!

Flavour Journey Restaurant Tour in the North Edge

The public might be more familiar with pub crawls, but I have to say that I much prefer restaurant crawls. I love the idea of exploring multiple establishments on foot, as it usually exposes participants to the neighbourhood as a whole as well. So whether through events like the Red Shoe Crawl or Dishcrawl, I’d encourage you to seek one out!

The North Edge Business Association (representing businesses in the Central McDougall and Queen Mary Park neighbourhoods) had organized several successful restaurant crawls last year, but the timing was never right. Thankfully, this summer, I was finally able to participate in one of the Flavour Journey Restaurant Tours! I convinced my sisters to join me, and along with about twenty other people, sampled three dishes at three different restaurants that night.

Felicia and Amanda

Tickets were just $30, with the profits split equally between the three restaurants. The Business Association covered the other costs (ticketing, marketing, etc.), so the restaurants could focus solely on the food. Given the benefit of increased exposure to the neighbourhood, I wonder why more areas haven’t adopted this tactic.

Regardless, we started out the evening at Caffé Sorrentino. Pedestrian, yes, but by far, the most prepared for the group. Our host for the evening, Chris Hrynyk, graciously welcomed us, and explained that the dish we were about to enjoy has been on the Sorrentino’s menu for thirty six years.

Chris Hrynyk of Caffe Sorrentino

Each batch of veal cannelloni, he tantalized, was simmered with five kilograms of parmesan and seven kilograms of mozzarella. After that introduction, the dish no doubt tasted even more indulgent.

Veal cannelloni

Just before we left, Chris gave us a tour of the kitchens, which double as both prep space and as the venue for their cooking classes. The consummate showman, he made sure to mention that Gordon Ramsay (in town as a part of a charity cooking event) was jealous of the size of their kitchens. In a way, it was unfortunate the subsequent restaurant participants weren’t present for the meal – they could have benefited from learning how to present themselves, and tell a narrative that could be easily shared.

Our second stop a block away was Com Pho 99 (11019 107 Avenue). I’ll be honest – if it weren’t for the restaurant tour, it is doubtful I would have ever stepped foot inside. It doesn’t provide the best first impression, but then again, that’s pretty representative of the neighbourhood as a whole. And in spite of being rough around the edges, Com Pho, like the North Edge, deserves a second look.

All aboard!

Unlike the other two restaurants, Com Pho offered the choice between a rice plate or a vermicelli bowl, topped with grilled chicken, beef and spring rolls. While the options were welcome, it likely slowed the kitchen down a fair bit, as our table wasn’t served until the other table had nearly finished their meals.

Vermicelli bowl (minus the missing spring rolls)

The food itself was pretty good though; Amanda (ever the vermicelli connoisseur) gave it a thumbs up.

Given the unusually large crowd, it was understandable that the kitchen struggled to keep up. That said, hopefully a majority of the diners were willing to overlook the minor hiccups and in the future would consider returning. This is the danger of showcasing small mom-and-pop shops in this way – though it casts a spotlight on restaurants that might fall otherwise under the radar, the business may not be ready or have the capacity to successfully host such an event.

Our third and final stop was Acajutla, a restaurant specializing in Mexican and Salvadorian food. As the evening was running a little late, the kitchen was more than ready for us. Plates were delivered, featuring a flauta, tostada and a pupusa.

Finale at Acajutla

The flauta and tostada shell were a bit overdone, but the pupusa was great, topped with some pickled cabbage and salsa.

In all, it was a great way to spend an evening – trying new restaurants, meeting new people, and learning more about the neighbourhood. The North Edge is considering more tours this fall – check the website for more information!

Brunch and Bop: Culina Muttart and the Slow Flash Mob

Though brunch is always on the “to do” list when we’re on vacation, while we’re at home, it’s hard to motivate ourselves to get out of bed on the weekend! That said, planned in advance this summer, we were actually pleasantly surprised by some of the new-to-us brunch discoveries we made.

The first was Culina Muttart. Located inside one of Edmonton’s year-round tourist destinations, the restaurant now provides locals with a reason to visit the attraction on a more regular basis. The patio was lovely that day, diners enjoying the full sun among the planters and water feature, but we opted instead for a comfortable window seat inside. The only downside of the interior was its north-facing orientation, meaning that the majority of the tables seemed starved for sunlight, but I recognize not much could be done about that.

The menu is small, with just five mains to choose from. And in anti-food blog fashion, Mack, Grandma Male and I all ordered the exact same dish – the classic eggs benedict with honey ham ($15). Given how hungry I was that day, I also added a pastry basket for two ($7).

The basket arrived, still warm and accompanied by room-temperature butter and Jam Lady spread. Mack and Grandma Male both enjoyed the cornbread, while I polished off a delicious cheddar scone. The basket alone would have made for a light and lovely breakfast.

Pastry basket

The waitress then delivered each of us a small bowl of granola, topped with Greek yogurt. Nowhere on the menu was this inclusion listed, and while a welcome addition, had I known in advance, I likely wouldn’t have ordered the pastry basket at all.

Granola bowl

The eggs benedict was nicely presented, garnished with microgreens. We found no quibble with the white wine hollandaise, but were a bit disappointed with the eggs, which were medium as opposed to the requested soft poached. However, we all commented that the sweet honey ham was notable.

Classic eggs benedict

Service was professional, and Mack was satisfied with the number of coffee refills offered throughout our meal. As a whole, the meal was a positive experience, and made me want to return for one of their Thursday night prix-fixe dinners.

After brunch, we decided to cross the river to Louise McKinney Riverfront Park to take in the Slow Flash Mob. An initiative led by Amy Shostak, the one-day festival on July 20, 2013 sought to encourage multi-generational interaction in an underutilized green space.

Zumba lessons

Activities ranged from zumba to improv lessons, storytelling and karaoke. The activities were spread out across the park, making use of the Chinese garden, grassy field and Shumka stage. Things were very well-organized, keeping to the schedule. There was even a free shuttle which transported attendees from the Central Lions Seniors Centre.

Free doughnuts from the Ye Olde Donut Shoppe

It was just unfortunate that it wasn’t better attended. Of course there is always lots to choose from on any summer weekend in Edmonton, but I think some people may have been confused by the name of the event. Had I not read about the festival prior, I probably would have assumed the event encouraged sluggish group dances.

Julie and Birkley from Sugar Swing perform

Mack and I took part in the swing dance lesson led by the Sugar Swing Dance Club, while Grandma Male chatted with some of the others in the audience. It was a fun way to spend part of a sunny summer afternoon!

Swing lessons!

Thanks to Amy and her team for putting on this event!

Culina Muttart
9626 96A Street
(780) 466-1181
Lunch, Monday to Friday, 11am-2pm; Dinner, Thursdays, 5-8:30pm; Brunch, Saturday and Sunday, 10:30am-2:30pm

Giveaway: Red Shoe Crawl 124 Street Tickets!

Although we’re still in the midst of summer, September will be here in no time! Though that might mean back to school for some or (sigh) cooler weather, on the bright side, September will also see the second Red Shoe Crawl of the year take place!

The Red Shoe Crawl is a fundraiser for the Ronald McDonald House of Northern Alberta, and encourages participants to explore businesses on foot using a passport system. Tickets for the event are $40, and typically sell out in advance.

In 2012, the Red Shoe Crawl expanded beyond the Old Strathcona neighbourhood and held a second event in the 124 Street neighbourhood. With interesting boutiques and new cafes and restaurants around every corner, Mack and I really enjoyed sampling our way through the area.

Garlic chili prawns were among our favourite bites last year

This year, confirmed businesses include:

Sample plates at Paddy’s

It’s great to see some new establishments step up to the plate to support this charitable event, along with the returning businesses. Organizers anticipate a total of 16-18 shops and eateries to be a part of the event that day.

The Red Shoe Crawl team were nice enough to allow me to give two tickets away! To enter, all you have to do is leave a comment below with a valid e-mail address that answers the following question:

Which 124 Street area business are you most looking forward to trying or revisiting at the Red Shoe Crawl?

A winner will be chosen randomly from all responses collected before the deadline. The contest closes on August 14, 2013 at 11:59pm. Good luck!

Taste of Edmonton 2013

The Taste of Edmonton festival continued its evolution this year. In 2012, with the addition of trendy food trucks and community-engaging cooking competitions, it was clear Taste not only wanted to capture some of the excitement surrounding well-made street food, but also wanted to take advantage of a growing number of people who were interested in participatory opportunities beyond just eating.

Taste of Edmonton

Along with the debut of a new logo and a much-improved website, the 29th annual Taste of Edmonton also introduced Sip ‘n Savour, which combined elements of culinary lessons, pop-up dinners and specialty markets all under one roof. It was a bold move, one that the organizers should be commended for, as it was far from their status quo. To me, it spoke to the festival’s desire to connect with the rising number of people who appreciate knowing both the producers and chefs behind the food on their plates.

Sip ‘n Savour tent

With events ranging from cooking demonstrations, hands-on workshops, tastings and dinners, there really did seem to be something for everyone seeking refuge from the crowded aisles and beer garden outside. Though I wasn’t able to partake in any of the activities (save for one competition below), I heard from a variety of people that the sessions were perhaps not as well-attended as they could have been. Some of this, no doubt, had to relate to scheduling; afternoon workshops would be difficult for those with standard work hours. But some of the attendance issues might relate to the fact that Taste of Edmonton is still primarily associated with serving up al fresco nibbles and beer. Still, with time, it’s possible that Edmontonians will embrace these additions to the festival – it will be interesting to see what is kept and modified for 2014.

I was fortunate enough to be asked to participate on the judging panel of the Mystery Box Cooking Competition on July 21, 2013. Three teams of three were presented with a basket of ingredients that they then had to incorporate into a dish in an hour’s time. The dish would be judged on taste, wow factor, use of ingredients, originality, temperature and timing.

My fellow judges included food blogger Phil Wilson, Mercer Catering Chef Lindsay Porter and Lia Kurylo of ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen. I had to give huge props to those who stepped up to participate, as I am not an improvisational cook to say the least. I couldn’t live without meal planning, so the idea of having to create something on the fly, under the spotlight glare, terrifies me more than a little bit.

With fellow judges Phil, Lia and Lindsay

The mystery ingredients ended up being yak, gojuchang paste, eggs, duck fat and kale. It was great to see the teams take the time to discuss their approach before jumping in and develop a plan of attack!

Plan for Team E-lemon-ators

Breakfast Television hosts Bridget Ryan and Courtney Theriault kept things lively and upbeat, checking in with contestants and judges throughout the cooking time. It really was a shame that the competition didn’t take place on the Taste main stage as it did in 2012. Tucked away in the Sip ‘n Savour tent meant that most of the spectators sought it out. Without the opportunity to pique the interest of casual passerby, the organizers lost an opportunity to grow the audience even further this year.

Phil chats with Team Perfect

In addition, this venue wasn’t ideal for the competition. It appeared the stage was a bit of an afterthought in itself, with only one row of chairs and a few awkwardly place cocktail tables in front, it was almost as if organizers didn’t plan for a crowd at all. Mack, who was in the audience for some time commented that many people wandered listlessly in front of the competitors as they made their way to the outdoor patio seating. As well, the tent also contained an odd potpourri mix of art and a few vendors including Real Deal Meats, Knifewear and a prepared Indian food product. I had to wonder if they were successful; I would imagine most come to Taste ready to eat, not to buy groceries and tools.

View from the judging table

Back to the competition, at the end of the hour, I took my seat alongside my fellow judges to sample the finished product.

Team Bird was up first. They presented a deep-fried wonton containing gojuchang-marinated yak accompanied by a gojuchang and feta dipping sauce, duck fat potatoes and an egg, fennel and dill salad. Having tenderized the meat, Team Bird was most successful in ensuring the tough meat would still cook up somewhat tender within the allotted time. The rest of the judges were also impressed with the flavour of the dipping sauce.

Team Bird entry

Team Perfect presented a compartmentalized plate, with yak that had been seared in bacon fat, a kale and egg salad, potatoes and bell peppers and onions. The plate was colourful, and made great use of seasonal ingredients, but the meat was still quite tough.

Team Perfect entry

Team E-lemon-ators had by far the most composed dish, a deconstructed yak poutine. Duck fat potatoes were layered with kale, gojuchang-marinated yak, and a fried egg. It was easily the most restaurant-ready plate, but the meat was unfortunately chewy.

Team E-lemon-ators entry

Scoring was not easy! We knew how tough the mystery box element was, and how hard the teams worked! The teams were ultimately separated by just a handful of points.

In the end, Team Bird took home the prize with their creative yak-filled wontons. Congratulations to all of the competitors for taking on the challenge! Check out Andrea’s write-up about her experience in the competition.

Team Bird wins!

After the competition, Mack and I bought $20 worth of tickets for lunch. Perhaps the most noticeable change for festival goers was the addition of smaller portion sizes, and thus, the ability to try more samples for less. Although neither of us were full after eating, we felt satisfied with the variety we had tried for the amount of money we spent, something that hasn’t been true in past years.

The always crowded aisles (probably something that will never change)

It was great to see some of the eye-catching booths (Naanolicious should have been recognized for their display), and vendors like The Lingnan hawking their product to the passing crowd, livening up the atmosphere even further.

Naanolicious

We loved the bulgogi meatballs from Molly’s Eats (tender, with a hint of sweetness) and fellow food truck Smokehouse BBQ’s pig ball (how can you pass up a deep fried pulled pork rice ball?).

Bulgogi meatballs from Molly’s Eats

Pig ball from Smokehouse BBQ

The Alberta bison cannelloni from Bistecca was delicious (though perhaps on that white hot day, not the ideal plate), while Mack knew he couldn’t go wrong with the 2012 fan favourite Tandoori samosa from Guru.

Bison cannelloni from Bistecca

Tandoori samosa from Guru

The smoked mac and cheese from Select wasn’t creamy enough for our liking, while Mercer Tavern’s s’more fritters didn’t quite live up to their name, tasting simply like fried graham cracker crumbs.

Bacon mac and cheese from Select

S’more fritters from Mercer Tavern

This year, Taste of Edmonton saw even higher numbers than 2012. Organizers credit this with the revamped portion sizes and the Sip ‘n Savour tent. With its 30th incarnation next year, it will be interesting to see how Taste of Edmonton pulls out all the stops to celebrate that milestone.

Smashburger lands in Edmonton

The number of fast casual burger restaurants in Edmonton just keeps on growing. On July 3, 2013, the Edmonton area’s first Smashburger franchise opened up in Sherwood Park, joining the likes of Fatburger, Five Guys, Rodeo Burger and The Burger Joint in an increasingly crowded burger scene. In many ways, it’s not surprising – North America’s love affair of the hamburger is well-documented, and with palates leaning more towards fresher alternatives, those offering something a step above drive-thru fare are blossoming. The Sherwood Park location is Canada’s third Smashburger, adding to Alberta’s glut, with two already situated in Calgary.

Mack and I attended the media reception in early July, eager to see how Smashburger would differentiate itself from others. It turns out, Smashburger attempts to distinguish its beef burgers with its proprietary cooking process: meatballs, rolled fresh daily, are “smashed” on the grill to order, a method, they promise, provides a caramelized sear that seals in the patty’s natural juices.

We were invited to order whatever we desired from the menu, a very generous offer. Featuring a number of pre-designed beef and grilled chicken burger creations, salads, and sides, prices ranged from $5.99-$8.49 for burgers. For more creative (or particular) eaters, Smashburger also offers a “create your own” option.

Mack immediately gravitated towards the Edmonton burger (each city features a recipe inspired by regional flavours). In this case, a beef or grilled chicken patty is topped with grilled onions, cheddar, BBQ sauce and a fried egg. A Saskatoon berry shake and poutine are also exclusive to the Canadian menu.

I decided to stick with the Classic Smash, with American cheese, Smash sauce, ketchup, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion on an egg bun. Mack chose a poutine side, while I chose the Haystack onions.

We were happy to run into Su and Joveena, two of Edmonton’s prolific #yegfood tweeters. Dinner is always better with good company!

Su and Joveena

Portions were generous, and everything was delivered piping hot. Both of us enjoyed our respective burgers, but save my sweet egg bun, I’m not sure I’d be able to identify the burger in a blind taste test. I did appreciate that the Smash sauce was given as a side, which gave me control over how much I wanted to add, but Mack commented how much it reminded him of a certain “special sauce” at a rival quick-service giant.

Edmonton Burger and poutine

The sides, however, left something to be desired. Shoestring fries are not ideal for poutine, as they aren’t as suited to be weighted under the layers of gravy and cheese. My Haystack onions were more like the onion straws used as a textural addition to burgers, instead of the substantial battered and fried rings I’m used to. They were also incredibly salty. I’m sure this is just a personal preference, but I prefer my onion rings whole and not shredded.

Classic Smash and haystack onions

The service that night was over the top, as expected, though I’d be curious to see how it has toned itself down as the staff settle into a more typical rhythm.

Located in Emerald Hills, one of the newer neighbourhoods of Sherwood Park, it was a bit of a shame the Edmonton attendees didn’t decide to carpool before hand. The drive was close to 45 minutes from downtown in rush hour traffic, so it would be doubtful we’d undertake such a commute if we didn’t already have plans in the area. That said, if we were looking for a fast casual burger in Sherwood Park, we wouldn’t mind returning to Smashburger just for their namesake dish. Thanks to the restaurant for the invitation!

Want to give it a try yourself? For a chance to win $25 in Smashburger gift certificates, leave a comment below (with a valid e-mail address) with the name of the burger you’d order off of the local menu. Contest closes on July 26, 2013 at 11:59pm. Winner will be chosen by a random number generator and contacted by e-mail.

EDIT (July 28, 2013): Congratulations to Jessica for winning $25 in Smashburger gift certificates! Thanks to everyone who entered.

Check out the plethora of reviews from other local bloggers: Andrea, Courtenay, Eva, Diane, Karlynn, Lillian, Liv and Phil.

Smashburger
#530, 500 Emerald Drive, Sherwood Park
(780) 410-0999
Hours: 10am-10pm daily

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