Just Trust the Chefs: The Parlour Kitchen & Bar

I have a lot of respect for the Century Hospitality Group. They are one of the most successful local restaurant companies, reaching a total of eight properties this year, but they don’t rest on their laurels. They were the originators of the “alley cuisine” trend in Edmonton with their back alley Hundred burgers, created a pop-up dining room in a pedway, and this year, reached culinary heights with Corporate Chef Paul Shufelt’s win at the local Gold Medal Plates competition.

As Century Hospitality continues expanding their reach into neighbourhoods like Magrath and soon, Terwillegar, they have not forgotten about the core. Lux and Hundred have become stalwarts in the downtown restaurant scene, and now, a few blocks west, the Parlour Italian Kitchen & Bar offers an additional CHG dining option.

Situated on Capital Boulevard, Parlour was the only storefront on that cold Friday December evening that was drawing any foot traffic (yes, I am discounting Denny’s). In the future, once the Boulevard streetscaping is complete, in addition to the construction of more retail along this signature street, one can only hope this will change.

Parlour

No doubt, Century Hospitality excels in creating trendy, upscale casual environments. Parlour is no different, with a bold, masculine space accented by a vintage-inspired “EAT” fixture (we saw a similar sign at Olympic Provisions in Portland). What sets this dining room apart from the others, however, is the grand mezzanine, which takes advantage of the building’s lofty ceiling, and the curved bar anchored by a tiled pizza oven.

Interior

The menu at Parlour is large, ranging from the requisite sandwiches, pastas, and larger entrees, but with the oven front and centre, it’s no secret that pizza is their focus. Comparisons can be drawn between their pie and the Neapolitan style made popular in Edmonton by Famoso, but Parlour stresses that the deviating tomatoes and cheese they chose were selected because of their superior flavour when compared with their standard Neapolitan counterparts.

We opened our meal with an order of arancini ($12). It was a generous serving, but for me, they were rolled a bit too large, decreasing the ever-important shell-to-rice ratio. That said, the spritz of lemon provided a welcome freshness to the dish.

Arancini

I don’t normally build my own pizzas, typically trusting the tried and true formulas crafted by the kitchen, but on this occasion, I couldn’t get the idea of a meatball pizza out of my head. So on a base of fresh mozzarella, I requested the heritage angus meatballs ($16).

Pizza tiers

I probably should have left the creativity to the chefs, as the delicate base did not seem intended for the weight of such hefty toppings (the meatballs themselves were tasty, and I’m certain well suited to pair with spaghetti).

Heritage angus meatball pizza

The crust, thin but satisfyingly chewy was better served with a lightweight layer. Mack’s order of Gamberi ($17) showcased the dough best, with what should be their signature sauce going forward, a sriracha pesto, and fire roasted garlic prawns that made me rethink my opinion that seafood and pizza don’t mix.

Gamberi pizza

As if we weren’t full enough, we opted for dessert. The tiramisu ($9) was beautifully plated, a modern take on an Italian classic. Cookie crumbs surrounded a bed of espresso-soaked lady fingers, with marscapone gingerly piped on top. The crumbs added a unique texture not normally associated with lush tiramisu – it’s a dish I’d definitely order again.

Tiramisu

Service was friendly throughout the evening, and even as the restaurant filled up, we were never forgotten. Although our server didn’t expect to be busy on that bitterly cold night, we weren’t surprised – diners are interested in what’s next for CHG.

Our parting shot – by the door, a gumball machine had been repurposed to dispense cherry tomatoes. We couldn’t resist taking a photo.

Eat your veggies!

The Parlour Italian Kitchen & Bar
10334 Capital Boulevard
(780) 990-0404
Monday-Saturday 11:30-late, Sunday 4-11pm

Downtown Dining Wealth: Woodwork

When Amanda and I walked into Woodwork for the first time, we both were struck by how much the restaurant reminded us of Toronto. Located in a heritage building, with a serious cocktail menu and a high hipster quotient, the only thing that grounded us in Edmonton was the reality that spaces in Toronto are much more narrow.

Woodwork is a collaboration between Chef Mike Scorgie of the Nomad Food Truck, and Barman Andrew Borley of the Volstead Act. It’s been a long time coming for the restaurant – they celebrated the start of construction with a pig roast pop-up back in April, and after assembling a bar and restaurant from scratch, Woodwork opened its doors in December.

As a downtown resident, it’s always heartening to see a restaurant like Woodwork open up in the neighbourhood. It’s these unique businesses that draw clientele from across the city because their take on food and drink cannot be found anywhere else. Adding to an immediate area already populated with Corso 32 and Tres Carnales, I’m not ashamed to say – keep the dining wealth coming!

I’ve been to Woodwork twice already. Once, on a Sunday in late December with a girlfriend, and more recently, last Friday with my family. Both times it was busy, buzzing with the energy that comes with being the newest kid on the block. Décor was minimal, which further showcases both their impressive bar and open kitchen. Mack also commented that their neon sign, coloured blue, also lends a soft, complementary glow to the entrance.

Stacked bar

Since my first visit, Woodwork has made some changes to help manage the temperature of the space. Seated by the front on both occasions, the installation of a door closure and an overhead heater made a noticeable difference. That said, an L-shaped glass partition would do wonders to direct the chill away from the tables – this is definitely a challenge we face in our winter city!

With their attention to detail in everything from the selection of spirits to their ice-making process, Woodwork is raising the bar with their drinks menu. I appreciated the description under each of their creations, and the range of cocktails available (i.e., a take on the Old Fashioned for Mack and sweeter concoctions for me).

Round one

As found on many on-trend menus, there is the option to order snacks, in addition to the usual smaller and large plates, sides and desserts. With May, we decided to sample the smaller dishes. On vacation detox, I ordered the brassica salad ($13), a tasty combination of kale, charred cauliflower, tomato, aged cheese and a poached egg. I loved the pickled onions, and my only nitpick was for the kale to have been torn into smaller pieces.

Brassica salad

The Nomad baked beans, topped with charred pepper crème fraiche ($11) was a much larger serving than I was expecting. Though I could have used more bread, the beans had a nice sweetness. As a bonus, the leftovers made a great lazy lunch the next day.

Nomad baked beans

May’s smoked chicken drumsticks ($8) was an equally generous serving (classified as a “snack”, after all), and she enjoyed them well enough. The chowder St. Jacques ($13) was her favourite, containing a well-cooked scallop and a cheddar biscuit. The shallow bowl made it more challenging to slurp up every bite, but it was worth it!

Smoked chicken drumsticks

Chowder St. Jacques

With my family, we shared a few sides, including the Saskatchewan yellow grits ($11) with red eye gravy and the mac n’ cheese ($14). The latter was no doubt their most popular truck offering, so we knew it had to make an appearance on their regular menu. In the restaurant, it has been upgraded to a cast-iron pan, piled high with pork crackling. It definitely had more heat than I remembered, but there were favourable comments all around.

Mac n’ cheese

The Toulouse for two ($29) consisted of sausage seasoned only with salt and pepper and Parisienne potatoes in a pork and onion reduction. This was my favourite dish; the kitchen was able to coax great flavour out of what could otherwise be a very basic item.

Toulouse for two

My sister’s confit of pork shoulder ($22) was gone before we knew it, flaked apart with her fork alone. And for someone who doesn’t usually like lentils, she finished all of the yolk-flecked side without complaint.

Confit of pork shoulder

Mack’s hangar steak ($24) was a slight disappointment. Cooked close to well-done (as opposed to the promised medium rare), the steak could have been more charred, and less chewy. He did appreciate the beurre bercy, a butter containing reduced wine and shallots.

Hangar steak

Thankfully, the kitchen wasn’t out of the peanut butter, chocolate and raspberry thang ($9) on my second visit. I’m not sure the presentation was appealing for me (given I’d just eaten the similarly shaped Toulouse), but the whipped peanut butter was delicious. Perhaps a mason jar could be used for serving, to visually denote the layers of flavour?

Peanut butter, chocolate and raspberry thang

Service on both occasions was great, warm and friendly. It was busy throughout the evening, but we were never lost in the shuffle, and did not feel rushed.

This is just the beginning for Woodwork – with a solid menu of food and drinks, I look forward to watching this restaurant evolve with the seasons and become a fixture of the downtown restaurant scene.

Woodwork
10132 100 Street
(780) 757-4100
Monday-Tuesday, Wednesday 11am-12am, Friday 11am-late, Saturday 5pm-late, Sunday 5pm-12am, closed Wednesdays

Alberta Avenue Adventures: Elm Café and Deep Freeze Festival

It’s been some time since Mack and I have had a brunch date, so earlier today, we sought to rectify that. I caught an Elm Café tweet that their Alberta Avenue dining room would be hosting brunch this weekend; given we were heading to the Deep Freeze Festival later anyway, it made sense to start off our day there.

Although the Elm Café dining room doesn’t offer meals on a regular basis, they’re worth looking out for. Our last visit involved a variety of Austrian dumplings, and this time, a straightforward, but satisfying brunch menu.

The expansive windows also illuminated the room well, and its street-level windows lent itself to people watching.

Dining room

Mack and I shared the buttermilk biscuit ($4), warmed and served with stone fruit jam and butter. If we hadn’t agreed to split the order initially, I think we would have wound up fighting over the scraps!

Buttermilk biscuit

The caramel apple French toast ($14) was decidedly even richer with a layer of Irvings bacon. I loved the finishing touch of crisp matchstick apples.

Caramel apple French toast

Mack’s corned beef hash ($14) was made up of some of his favourite things. He found the house-made corned beef particularly tasty, and appreciated the sweetness of the peppers.

Corned beef hash

Allan (who was in the kitchen this morning) was sweet enough to make us an extra treat too.

Mini tarts with yogurt and rhubarb compote

The leisurely brunch was just what we wanted – hopefully we can look forward to more festival meal pairings in the future!

Afterwards, we walked outside to explore the Deep Freeze Festival. Over the years, it has become our favourite winter festival – the range of activities appeal to visitors young and old, and with displays, games, music, and old fashioned outdoor fun, there is no shortage of things to see and do.

Cabane a sucre

Ice carvers at work

The festival organizers did a great job of improving the layout this year, by putting the thaw hut competition and deep freezer races right along 118 Avenue, encouraging even more walk-by traffic.

Dustin Bajer in his thaw hut entry (constructed with Paul Giang)

Deep freezer race!

As in past years as well, I appreciate that the audio of the indoor musical performances are piped outdoors, tying the different spaces together and providing a common soundtrack for the event.

The always popular ice slide

This year’s viking theme was visually prevalent throughout the festival, though I have to say my favourite incarnation was the stunning ice-carved viking ship that functioned as the outdoor concession stand.

Streetpole art

Ice bar

Kids at heart, Mack and I took advantage of the wagon rides, always a great vantage point to admire the neighbourhood’s tree-lined streets.

Beautiful horses

Wagon ride

Congratulations to the organizers for what looks to be another successful year!

Check out Mack’s post on Deep Freeze for a video overview of what to expect!

Austrian Dumpling Night at Elm Cafe

Mack’s Dad was in town last week for work, so we planned to have dinner together on Friday. When a call to one of the newest restaurants in the city yielded no prime time reservations, it was serendipitous for me to come across a tweet about a special supper being held at Elm Café. Allan Suddaby (one of Elm’s chefs), would be preparing an Austrian dumpling dinner at the café’s catering space on 118 Avenue. Though Mack and I have gotten to know Allan over the past few years by co-organizing Eat Alberta, we’ve never had the opportunity to enjoy a coherent meal he’s put together.

We’d been to the space before, but for an informal gathering. It’s been nicely redone by the Elm staff, sleek and modern with sparse enhancements and angled metal chairs.

Dining room

The set four-course menu was a very reasonable $30, not including drinks. We were able to choose from one of three entrees, so between our party, we were able to try every dish!

In a way, it felt like we were eating in Allan’s dining room, being treated to a meal he would prepare for himself at home. His straightforward style, highlighting good ingredients in comforting dishes was the perfect way to warm up on a chilly winter night.

The dinner began with a soup made of beef broth and thin strips of pancake. The pancake was more crepe-like than the fluffy versions served at breakfast, though cut in lengthy pieces, made it difficult for me to eat tastefully.

Frittatensuppe

The salad plate was a combination of several different textures (a big hit with me!) – fresh tomato and cucumber, cabbage with strong notes of fennel and a potato salad sprinkled with dill.

Gemischtersalat

Martin ordered the potato dumplings stuffed with ham and onions, then deep fried. As with the other entrees, it would be hard not to like anything deep fried (or in the case of the other dishes, baked with cheese or fried in butter).

Fleischknodel

We learned later that the bread dumpling was Allan’s personal favourite. He described it to be similar to a savoury bread pudding mixture that is boiled, then sliced and fried in butter. Served alongside a gravy-laden beef goulash, I could see why – they were a tastier accompaniment compared with a typical potato side, absorbing the sauce without losing its form. The celery leaves in the goulash were a beautiful touch.

Serviettenknodel

Mack enjoyed his Austrian mac and cheese, but did comment that he would have liked a side dish similar to how our plates were presented.

Kasespatzle

The final course involved a stewed rhubarb served with a sweet dough and vanilla ice cream. Mack is not usually a fan of desserts, but really took to this one.

Kaiserschmarrn

Our only minor quibble with the meal was the pacing. The kitchen was almost too efficient – the subsequent dishes were brought even before our previous plates were cleared. Four courses was a lot of food to consume in an hour!

It looks like Elm Café will be planning more one-off meals for the space. Follow them on Twitter to yourself apprised of the events. I look forward to attending other special events at this venue!

The Personal Touch: Hathaway’s Diner

Mack and I often deplore the state of brunch in Edmonton – when asked for brunch recommendations, we’re often hard pressed to suggest hometown favourites; it’s much easier for us to defer to our go-to spots in Calgary. That said, after visiting Hathaway’s Diner this summer, we can confidently say that with a few more gems like this one, Edmonton’s brunch scene would be well on its way.

Of course, Hathaway’s Diner is far from new. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve driven past it, given it’s a stone’s throw away from where Mack’s grandparents live. Tucked in a non-descript strip mall inside the neighbourhood of Wellington, it’s definitely not a restaurant likely to be stumbled upon. But that’s what makes it even more special.

Mack at Hathaway’s Diner

On a Saturday morning (Hathaway’s is closed on Sundays), the restaurant was busy, but not full. The interior was charming enough, with checkered floors and a wood counter complete with a built-in pie case. The only hiccup that day was an initial delay in getting our order taken, but after that, the service we received was some of the best we’ve encountered at breakfast in Edmonton.

Pam was the ultimate hostess. She was warm, and spent enough time with each table so diners felt welcomed and at home. Her personal touch, such as telling us that she “married her husband for his pancakes” made the experience much more memorable than most.

The food was great, too. I ordered the breakfast special with sausage ($7.99), and the pancakes lived up to expectations, light and airy with a touch of sweetness. Mack also enjoyed his eggs benedict (served only on Saturdays), and especially appreciated the spot on coffee refills throughout our meal.

Breakfast special

Eggs benedict

I’m already looking forward to my next visit to Hathaway’s Diner – and not just for the food.

Hathaway’s Diner
13225 – 132 street
(780) 488-5989
Tuesday-Saturday, 7am-4pm, closed Sunday and Monday

Battledish: Voting with your Stomach

On October 5, 2013, Edmonton played host to Battledish, a food competition organized by the local Dishcrawl affiliate. Similar to their namesake events, diners would be able to sample multiple dishes from restaurants within walking distance of one another with one added bonus: they would be able to vote for their favourites. Categories ranged from “best cocktail” to “most delicious”; the balloted nature of the outing was definitely part of the fun.

I was amongst several judges that day, though Mack purchased a ticket so I wouldn’t have to indulge alone. We met the organizers at Beaver Hills House Park where we were handed a map, a ballot, food/drink tickets, and even some food to get us started!

Battledish map

Though being able to provide patrons with a full experience (service, restaurant amenities, etc.)would have benefited participating restaurants the most, it was kind of some establishments to be a part of the day in whatever way possible. This was the case for V Sandwiches, which had provided lemongrass chicken and lemongrass tofu banh mi prepped and ready to take away, as well as a number of cupcake eateries, having supplied boxes of beautifully packaged treats. Had we known about this abundance of food at the start, we would have come prepared with carry out containers.

Cupcakes!

We ended up dropping off some of the food at our condo down the street before setting off on the Battledish journey – definitely one of the benefits of living so close to the action!

With four restaurants to visit that afternoon, we started with the one closest to home – The Burg. In a way, it was the best place to begin, as it set the bar quite low. Not only did it take half an hour to receive our food, but it was also clear the jalapeno sauce had been sitting on the plate for some time.

Braised pork belly and mac and cheese ball

Given The Burg has been inconsistent in the past, it was disappointing that they weren’t able to leave a positive impression at an event meant to stimulate future business.

We were confident that our next stop, Hundred Bar + Kitchen, wouldn’t let us down, and we were right. The restaurant had opened early just for the event, so it made Battledish passholders feel a little like VIPs.

Mack does his best impression of a VIP

Both the cocktail and dish at Hundred were winners in my book. I loved the refreshingly sweet Dude Fizz , and the house-made kimchi in the pork belly sandwich was a spicy, crunchy surprise.

Pork belly sandwich and Dude Fizz

Over at LUX, things were a little busier, no doubt because Alley Kat had set up a beer tasting stop there. Between the flights of beer and the Don Draper-approved Old Fashioned, we weren’t sure we’d make it to the last stop.

Old Fashioned

We eventually did, but only after we tried the ultimate slider, a burger stacked with an onion ring, bacon, and mushrooms, among other things. It was as difficult to eat as you’d imagine, but with a spicy beef patty and a variety of textures, it won my vote for “most delicious” that day.

Ultimate slider

We ended our day at Haweli. If you can believe it, the Indian restaurant was offering a buffet featuring six items. Given the food tickets for the event cost just $5 each, the buffet alone more than made the admission cost worthwhile.

Our fill at Haweli

That said, it was difficult to judge Haweli by comparison, given they offered so many dishes to choose from. The butter chicken was pretty tasty though!

We were more than stuffed by the end of the day – the cupcakes ended up making up most of our supper that night.

The final results came in a few days later, and I’m happy to say my votes weren’t too far off:

Best Cocktail: Pimms Number One Cup, The Burg
Most Authentic: Indian Buffet, Haweli
Most Modern: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar
Most Creative: Mac and Cheese Balls, The Burg
Most Delicious: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar

Thanks to Gemma for having me as one of the judges at the inaugural Battledish, and congratulations on a well-organized event! It looks like the event was such a success, it has spawned Cocktail Wars, taking place this December. Can you think of a better way to kick off your holiday season? Stay tuned.

Check out reviews from my fellow judges Andrea and Cheryl too!

Flavour Journey Restaurant Tour in the North Edge

The public might be more familiar with pub crawls, but I have to say that I much prefer restaurant crawls. I love the idea of exploring multiple establishments on foot, as it usually exposes participants to the neighbourhood as a whole as well. So whether through events like the Red Shoe Crawl or Dishcrawl, I’d encourage you to seek one out!

The North Edge Business Association (representing businesses in the Central McDougall and Queen Mary Park neighbourhoods) had organized several successful restaurant crawls last year, but the timing was never right. Thankfully, this summer, I was finally able to participate in one of the Flavour Journey Restaurant Tours! I convinced my sisters to join me, and along with about twenty other people, sampled three dishes at three different restaurants that night.

Felicia and Amanda

Tickets were just $30, with the profits split equally between the three restaurants. The Business Association covered the other costs (ticketing, marketing, etc.), so the restaurants could focus solely on the food. Given the benefit of increased exposure to the neighbourhood, I wonder why more areas haven’t adopted this tactic.

Regardless, we started out the evening at Caffé Sorrentino. Pedestrian, yes, but by far, the most prepared for the group. Our host for the evening, Chris Hrynyk, graciously welcomed us, and explained that the dish we were about to enjoy has been on the Sorrentino’s menu for thirty six years.

Chris Hrynyk of Caffe Sorrentino

Each batch of veal cannelloni, he tantalized, was simmered with five kilograms of parmesan and seven kilograms of mozzarella. After that introduction, the dish no doubt tasted even more indulgent.

Veal cannelloni

Just before we left, Chris gave us a tour of the kitchens, which double as both prep space and as the venue for their cooking classes. The consummate showman, he made sure to mention that Gordon Ramsay (in town as a part of a charity cooking event) was jealous of the size of their kitchens. In a way, it was unfortunate the subsequent restaurant participants weren’t present for the meal – they could have benefited from learning how to present themselves, and tell a narrative that could be easily shared.

Our second stop a block away was Com Pho 99 (11019 107 Avenue). I’ll be honest – if it weren’t for the restaurant tour, it is doubtful I would have ever stepped foot inside. It doesn’t provide the best first impression, but then again, that’s pretty representative of the neighbourhood as a whole. And in spite of being rough around the edges, Com Pho, like the North Edge, deserves a second look.

All aboard!

Unlike the other two restaurants, Com Pho offered the choice between a rice plate or a vermicelli bowl, topped with grilled chicken, beef and spring rolls. While the options were welcome, it likely slowed the kitchen down a fair bit, as our table wasn’t served until the other table had nearly finished their meals.

Vermicelli bowl (minus the missing spring rolls)

The food itself was pretty good though; Amanda (ever the vermicelli connoisseur) gave it a thumbs up.

Given the unusually large crowd, it was understandable that the kitchen struggled to keep up. That said, hopefully a majority of the diners were willing to overlook the minor hiccups and in the future would consider returning. This is the danger of showcasing small mom-and-pop shops in this way – though it casts a spotlight on restaurants that might fall otherwise under the radar, the business may not be ready or have the capacity to successfully host such an event.

Our third and final stop was Acajutla, a restaurant specializing in Mexican and Salvadorian food. As the evening was running a little late, the kitchen was more than ready for us. Plates were delivered, featuring a flauta, tostada and a pupusa.

Finale at Acajutla

The flauta and tostada shell were a bit overdone, but the pupusa was great, topped with some pickled cabbage and salsa.

In all, it was a great way to spend an evening – trying new restaurants, meeting new people, and learning more about the neighbourhood. The North Edge is considering more tours this fall – check the website for more information!

Brunch and Bop: Culina Muttart and the Slow Flash Mob

Though brunch is always on the “to do” list when we’re on vacation, while we’re at home, it’s hard to motivate ourselves to get out of bed on the weekend! That said, planned in advance this summer, we were actually pleasantly surprised by some of the new-to-us brunch discoveries we made.

The first was Culina Muttart. Located inside one of Edmonton’s year-round tourist destinations, the restaurant now provides locals with a reason to visit the attraction on a more regular basis. The patio was lovely that day, diners enjoying the full sun among the planters and water feature, but we opted instead for a comfortable window seat inside. The only downside of the interior was its north-facing orientation, meaning that the majority of the tables seemed starved for sunlight, but I recognize not much could be done about that.

The menu is small, with just five mains to choose from. And in anti-food blog fashion, Mack, Grandma Male and I all ordered the exact same dish – the classic eggs benedict with honey ham ($15). Given how hungry I was that day, I also added a pastry basket for two ($7).

The basket arrived, still warm and accompanied by room-temperature butter and Jam Lady spread. Mack and Grandma Male both enjoyed the cornbread, while I polished off a delicious cheddar scone. The basket alone would have made for a light and lovely breakfast.

Pastry basket

The waitress then delivered each of us a small bowl of granola, topped with Greek yogurt. Nowhere on the menu was this inclusion listed, and while a welcome addition, had I known in advance, I likely wouldn’t have ordered the pastry basket at all.

Granola bowl

The eggs benedict was nicely presented, garnished with microgreens. We found no quibble with the white wine hollandaise, but were a bit disappointed with the eggs, which were medium as opposed to the requested soft poached. However, we all commented that the sweet honey ham was notable.

Classic eggs benedict

Service was professional, and Mack was satisfied with the number of coffee refills offered throughout our meal. As a whole, the meal was a positive experience, and made me want to return for one of their Thursday night prix-fixe dinners.

After brunch, we decided to cross the river to Louise McKinney Riverfront Park to take in the Slow Flash Mob. An initiative led by Amy Shostak, the one-day festival on July 20, 2013 sought to encourage multi-generational interaction in an underutilized green space.

Zumba lessons

Activities ranged from zumba to improv lessons, storytelling and karaoke. The activities were spread out across the park, making use of the Chinese garden, grassy field and Shumka stage. Things were very well-organized, keeping to the schedule. There was even a free shuttle which transported attendees from the Central Lions Seniors Centre.

Free doughnuts from the Ye Olde Donut Shoppe

It was just unfortunate that it wasn’t better attended. Of course there is always lots to choose from on any summer weekend in Edmonton, but I think some people may have been confused by the name of the event. Had I not read about the festival prior, I probably would have assumed the event encouraged sluggish group dances.

Julie and Birkley from Sugar Swing perform

Mack and I took part in the swing dance lesson led by the Sugar Swing Dance Club, while Grandma Male chatted with some of the others in the audience. It was a fun way to spend part of a sunny summer afternoon!

Swing lessons!

Thanks to Amy and her team for putting on this event!

Culina Muttart
9626 96A Street
(780) 466-1181
Lunch, Monday to Friday, 11am-2pm; Dinner, Thursdays, 5-8:30pm; Brunch, Saturday and Sunday, 10:30am-2:30pm

Smashburger lands in Edmonton

The number of fast casual burger restaurants in Edmonton just keeps on growing. On July 3, 2013, the Edmonton area’s first Smashburger franchise opened up in Sherwood Park, joining the likes of Fatburger, Five Guys, Rodeo Burger and The Burger Joint in an increasingly crowded burger scene. In many ways, it’s not surprising – North America’s love affair of the hamburger is well-documented, and with palates leaning more towards fresher alternatives, those offering something a step above drive-thru fare are blossoming. The Sherwood Park location is Canada’s third Smashburger, adding to Alberta’s glut, with two already situated in Calgary.

Mack and I attended the media reception in early July, eager to see how Smashburger would differentiate itself from others. It turns out, Smashburger attempts to distinguish its beef burgers with its proprietary cooking process: meatballs, rolled fresh daily, are “smashed” on the grill to order, a method, they promise, provides a caramelized sear that seals in the patty’s natural juices.

We were invited to order whatever we desired from the menu, a very generous offer. Featuring a number of pre-designed beef and grilled chicken burger creations, salads, and sides, prices ranged from $5.99-$8.49 for burgers. For more creative (or particular) eaters, Smashburger also offers a “create your own” option.

Mack immediately gravitated towards the Edmonton burger (each city features a recipe inspired by regional flavours). In this case, a beef or grilled chicken patty is topped with grilled onions, cheddar, BBQ sauce and a fried egg. A Saskatoon berry shake and poutine are also exclusive to the Canadian menu.

I decided to stick with the Classic Smash, with American cheese, Smash sauce, ketchup, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion on an egg bun. Mack chose a poutine side, while I chose the Haystack onions.

We were happy to run into Su and Joveena, two of Edmonton’s prolific #yegfood tweeters. Dinner is always better with good company!

Su and Joveena

Portions were generous, and everything was delivered piping hot. Both of us enjoyed our respective burgers, but save my sweet egg bun, I’m not sure I’d be able to identify the burger in a blind taste test. I did appreciate that the Smash sauce was given as a side, which gave me control over how much I wanted to add, but Mack commented how much it reminded him of a certain “special sauce” at a rival quick-service giant.

Edmonton Burger and poutine

The sides, however, left something to be desired. Shoestring fries are not ideal for poutine, as they aren’t as suited to be weighted under the layers of gravy and cheese. My Haystack onions were more like the onion straws used as a textural addition to burgers, instead of the substantial battered and fried rings I’m used to. They were also incredibly salty. I’m sure this is just a personal preference, but I prefer my onion rings whole and not shredded.

Classic Smash and haystack onions

The service that night was over the top, as expected, though I’d be curious to see how it has toned itself down as the staff settle into a more typical rhythm.

Located in Emerald Hills, one of the newer neighbourhoods of Sherwood Park, it was a bit of a shame the Edmonton attendees didn’t decide to carpool before hand. The drive was close to 45 minutes from downtown in rush hour traffic, so it would be doubtful we’d undertake such a commute if we didn’t already have plans in the area. That said, if we were looking for a fast casual burger in Sherwood Park, we wouldn’t mind returning to Smashburger just for their namesake dish. Thanks to the restaurant for the invitation!

Want to give it a try yourself? For a chance to win $25 in Smashburger gift certificates, leave a comment below (with a valid e-mail address) with the name of the burger you’d order off of the local menu. Contest closes on July 26, 2013 at 11:59pm. Winner will be chosen by a random number generator and contacted by e-mail.

EDIT (July 28, 2013): Congratulations to Jessica for winning $25 in Smashburger gift certificates! Thanks to everyone who entered.

Check out the plethora of reviews from other local bloggers: Andrea, Courtenay, Eva, Diane, Karlynn, Lillian, Liv and Phil.

Smashburger
#530, 500 Emerald Drive, Sherwood Park
(780) 410-0999
Hours: 10am-10pm daily

Chef’s Table at Hardware Grill

In my family, June is a time for celebration. My Mum, Dad and I all share June as a birthday month, and of course, Father’s Day is a standard observance. This year, for one of my milestone birthdays, I decided the cumulative festivities could justify the Chef’s Table splurge at the venerable Hardware Grill. As it stands, $100 for five courses at the consistently excellent restaurant is reasonable, but it was still nice to have these special occasions to commemorate with my parents.

The Chef’s Table can accommodate up to six, and like any communal table, we were told that we’d likely be joined by a party of two that night. When we arrived, we noticed that the place settings were set for four. The couple never did end up arriving, but we appreciated the heads up nonetheless.

With my parents

The Chef’s Table is located right inside the kitchen, with a perfect view of Chef Larry Stewart and his crew. I’m sure the staff are immune to it now, but I would feel a little odd being observed, fishbowl-style, as I worked. That said, we really appreciated their candor and unaffected behaviour. As we would find out, unlike the nightmare back room scenarios portrayed on television, Hardware Grill is a pristine example of a well-oiled machine.

Our view of the kitchen

A printed menu laid out the five dishes for the night, which would be served over the course of three and a half hours. The meal was so well paced, we had no idea where the time went (it didn’t mean we finished all of our food, however – most of our entrée and desserts ended up in take-home boxes). And though the food was wonderful, what really set the experience apart was the staff. White linens sometimes equal stiff and awkward interactions, but at Hardware Grill, we are always floored by the service. Beyond gracious and professional, as expected at a fine dining establishment, staff are warm, good-humoured and seem to genuinely enjoy their work.

It was also the little things – for instance, we decided to order two wine pairings to share. Without missing a beat, individual glasses were delivered to each of us, a single pour split between two. Although this wasn’t my first time sharing a wine pairing, it was certainly the first time I’ve encountered the generosity of providing a second glass.

Just as the service was measured and executed perfectly, so too were the kitchen dynamics. Chef Stewart received each order, calling out items calmly. The other chefs would quietly get to work on their components, with Sous Chef Jesse Chalmers periodically updating the ETA of the main protein. Communication was paramount, and in this kitchen, was the cornerstone on an effective team. I wrongly assumed dining at the Chef’s Table would be a noisy affair; in reality, the din of the main dining room was noticeably louder than in the kitchen.

Mack observes the kitchen

The first course was a charming way to start off the meal – a bite-size sandwich layered with brioche, lobster, pancetta, arugula and oven-dried tomato paired with a lobster bisque. The photo is a bit deceiving – a heavy hand in the kitchen dealt the lobster.

Soup ‘n sandwich

The salad of buffalo mozzarella and symphony heirloom tomatoes was simple, but made with good ingredients, including a spike of lemon-scented olive oil, was delicious.

Buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad

Mack especially enjoyed the pasta course of hand-rolled goat cheese tortelloni, their creamy centres stealing the show. For me, it was the underlying corn broth that sung – it was skill that coaxed such fragrance and aroma from the corn.

Goat cheese tortelloni with beech mushrooms in corn broth

By the time we reached the entrée, we were already approaching the point of being uncomfortably full. Interestingly enough, we were encouraged to eat the hickory-smoked quail by hand, not something we would have expected. I ended up gravitating more to the vegetables on the plate, in particular to the caramelized cauliflower, lovingly browned in a way that I will try to replicate at home.

Hickory-smoked quail

After the preceding two courses, I was anticipating a light finish to the dinner. Instead, we were presented with a dense, intensely rich chocolate marquise. Even one half the size would have been too much for me, but the dollop of sour cream on top was curious, lending a tang that did not pair well with the chocolate.

Chocolate marquise

Kudos to the staff of Hardware Grill for a memorable experience. If anything, it reminded me that I shouldn’t let too much time pass between future visits to Edmonton’s most respected restaurant.

Hardware Grill
9698 Jasper Avenue
(780) 423-0969

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