Tag: restaurant reviews

Fresh Inspiration: Eatery at the ARTery

After some leisurely window shopping at City Centre Mall, I wandered over to the Eatery at the ARTery (9535 Jasper Avenue) for lunch. As it was an absolutely gorgeous day, the stroll to the ARTery provided an opportune moment to take in our scenic river valley.

Edmonton in bloom

I had heard about the Eatery at the ARTery  in early May before the City Centre Market opened for business. Julianna Mimande, formerly of Bacon, was heading up this new weekly endeavour, which would serve lunch from 12-4pm every Saturday, using fresh ingredients picked up from the farmers’ market that morning. It’s the kind of thing locovores should embrace, and I applaud Julianna’s initiative that not only celebrates Alberta’s bounty, but also practices the idea of inspiration and creativity inherent in fresh ingredients. My only doubt was about the timing of the lunch – it is almost set up best for those who don’t make a trip through the market, unless they either lived close enough to drop off the goods afterwards (as I did), have a car to store their purchases in, or don’t mind going later in the day when popular goods may already be sold out.

The ARTery

Through the bright red door, I encountered a blackboard menu that listed the day’s creation: an omelette made with Arnold’s Eggs, Edgar Farms asparagus, and Sylvan Star aged gouda, accompanied by a Greens Eggs and Ham salad and baby potatoes ($12) – a pretty great lunch, if you ask me. Two types of dessert were also available – Portuguese egg tarts ($2) and chocolate mousse ($5). Coffee was $2, with (wait for it) a shot of Baileys for an additional $3 – you have to love a place that serves coffee with Baileys at noon.

Menu board

I paid for my order, passed it off to Julianna, and was told that my lunch would be brought to me. I wondered how the kitchen managed when it was busy, as it looked like it could barely accommodate two. I headed into the seating area, where I found a guitarist performing on stage, surrounded by artwork and just a handful of tables.

Afternoon entertainment – Mo Lefever

Artwork at the ARTery

This was my first time at the ARTery, though I knew that the space hosted craft fairs and musical performances, among other things. I took a seat at the bar along the side wall, grateful for the breeze passing through the slightly ajar emergency exit, and settled in with my magazine.

I didn’t even get through an article when my food was brought to me, accompanied by two slices of toast. I remember Liane’s comment that the meal that she had was rather light – perhaps Julianna took that into consideration this week, as I was quite satisfied with the portion size. The omelette was a dense yellow colour, wrapped around still-crisp stalks of asparagus. The kitchen was a little light-handed with the cheese, but the richness of the eggs helped offset that deficiency somewhat. The toast was also notable – I found out later the bread was from the Italian Centre.

Asparagus and gouda omelette with salad and potatoes

It was a relaxing, pleasing lunch, and the thought of a menu that reflects the season will keep me coming back.

The Eatery at the ARTery
9535 Jasper Avenue
(780) 441-6966
Lunch served every Saturday, 12-4pm

Almost Al Fresco: Cosmos Greek Taverna

Greek cuisine is one of Mack’s favourites, so for his last dinner before his trip to London, I took him to Cosmos Greek Taverna on High Street.

Upon walking up to the restaurant, I was glad the venue allowed us to take advantage of a semi-summer day. Cosmos had removed the windows from the hinges, creating a patio feel in the front dining area, and between the murals on the walls and the cool breeze, the setting transported us to a locale far from Edmonton. The only downside to dining almost al-fresco was, of course, the layer of dirt on the table and plates (but nothing a quick dusting couldn’t fix).

Mack at Cosmos

The entree selections were fairly brief, though we could have built a meal out of tapas (and in hindsight, we probably should have). We opted to share an appetizer of homus and pita ($6.50), while Mack ordered the gyros with pita ($17.50) and I the chicken souvlaki ($21.50).

I should make mention, however brief, of the bread course – a small loaf of bread, warmed! Mack and I both love warm bread, and think it really should be a restaurant standard.

Happy Camel supplies our favourite hummus in the city, so we were eager to see how Cosmos’ version would measure up. Mack liked the consistency, but we both thought there was something lacking – perhaps they could have kicked up the garlic flavour a notch? I did like the fact that the pitas had been warmed and slightly toasted though – it made the dish seem more like a treat.

Homus and Pita

As expected, our entrees were enormous. Had my plate not been served with a side of potatoes and vegetables, I likely still would not have been able to finish my dinner. Mack enjoyed the gyros, but also found the portion size overwhelming. As for the souvlaki, again, the toasted pita underneath the chicken kabobs was a nice touch, but I didn’t care much for the potatoes or the overcooked and greasy vegetable medley.

Gyros

 

Chicken Souvlaki

Service as a whole was all right, but nothing exceptional. Mack noted at the end of the night that while he does enjoy Greek food, he always finds the prices in restaurants a tad expensive and the portion sizes too large. He suggested that Greek establishments should consider offering smaller versions of their popular dishes – not a bad idea, particularly in the current climate.

Cosmos Greek Taverna
10810 124 Street (2 other locations)
(780) 455-7474
4pm-12am daily

Piece-meal: Proof

When the trend of “small plates” began appearing in Edmonton, I was a little sceptical. Like many, I was used to the standard appetizer/entree/dessert meal (at least at restaurants serving Western fare), and I was resistant to any change deviating from that. After my experience at Proof, however, I can tell you that I have wholeheartedly embraced this new way of eating out.

My discovery of Proof came by way of DC Foodies, a website covering local restaurants, food events, and farmers’ markets, among other things. Proof was listed as one of the blog authors’ favourites, and as soon as I read that the restaurant had charcuterie on the menu, I slotted it into our plan, making a reservation using Open Table (a website subscribed to by most non-fast food DC eateries, it seemed).

When we arrived at 6:30, there were  only a few tables free of patrons. We learned very quickly that the dress code (though listed as “casual” on their Open Table profile), was elevated by the naturally dressy after work crowd, most of which were wearing suits and standard business wear.

The interior was elegant but understated – rich woods, metallic accent mirrors, dangling incandescent light bulbs, a beautiful glass wine case, and directly in my sight line, a charcuterie prep station. I wasn’t a fan of the woven chairs, though they did serve the purpose of ensuring the decor wasn’t too formal.

Interior

The name of the restaurant is derived from a quote attributed to Benjamin Franklin: “Wine is proof that God loves us.” So although the food was our initial draw, we were more than happy to sample Proof’s wine program, with 2, 4, and 8oz. pours of over 40 types of wine available, and a novel of selections by the bottle. Mack and I also agreed that we should keep better track of the wines we liked, in an effort to be more systematic about our vino exploration (of course, our favourites are noted in Mack’s moleskine and not mine…).

To put together our cheese and charcuterie platter, we asked our server for guidance, who was great at explaining the virtues of the various meats and cheeses. And while he and the rest of the service at Proof was assembly-line efficient (wines would instantaneously appear), the service was almost too formal for us to loosen up and enjoy ourselves – my only (admittedly minor) complaint about our experience.

We ended up with two meats – speck ($9), similar to a smoked prosciutto, and saucisson de paris ($8), a sausage – and three cheeses – la serena, a sheep’s milk cheese from spain, mt. tam from California, and cabot clothbound cheddar from Vermont ($13).

The bread course was a welcome change from the standard bread and butter rolls – baked pita-like strips were served with a mixture of sour cream, olive oil and chives. I can’t say I cared for the concoction, but I appreciated the fact that they wanted to do something different.

Bread service at Proof

Our starter was best described by Mack, who called it “adult cheese and crackers”. Heightened finger food or not, it was a lovely sight to behold – the cheeses were rustic in presentation, on a wooden platter served with fig and nut bread, honey, applesauce and dried figs, while the shaved meats were accompanied by toasted baguettes (and not an olive in sight!). We had a wonderful time experimenting with flavours – one of my favourite combinations was the subtly sweet fig bread with the creamy sheep’s cheese, salty prosciutto, and a dollop of honey for balance. Mack really enjoyed the cheddar, aged to the point where it had the texture and sharpness of parmesan. I think the best thing about the platter, however, was having to slow down and take time to eat it (during that time, we ran through about 3 2 oz. pours of wine each) – something that helped elevate our meal to an experience.

Cheese Platter

 

Charcuterie

The menu directly encouraged patrons to share small plates, and since we had grazed over the platter to start anyway, we figured we might as well carry the sentiment over into the rest of our dinner as well. We decided to split three dishes: crispy pork confit ($13), spicy little meatballs ($10),and sauteed potato gnocchi with ramps and asparagus ($14).

Though service had been brisk thus far, we both weren’t prepared at the speed at which the dishes appeared all at the same time– the chef must have been right on top of his kitchen staff. I was also happy to see that the plating was appealing without being over-the-top.

I expected more from the pork confit, though it arrived exactly as billed – a soy-glazed slice of pork, skin crisp above a layer of fat, its crunch mirrored somewhat in the bed of jicima salad underneath. The level of spice to enhance the sweetness was perfect, but we both agreed there was something missing.

Crispy Pork Confit

Mack loved the meatballs (cooked so the meat was still a touch pink), and paired with goat cheese agnolotti, the dish was a bit like a gourmet edition of pasta and meatballs.

Spicy Little Meatballs

The gnocchi was by far my favourite – not the gummy dumplings I’ve found in my dining past, the gnocchi virtually melted in my mouth. Though the vegetables were appreciated, I probably could have done without them in favour of more gnocchi.

Sauteed Gnocchi with Ramps and Asparagus

If I ever came back to DC, I’d make a beeline back to Proof.

Proof
775 G St NW
Washington, DC
(202) 737-7663

A Business Lunch Favourite: Teaism

Teaism is a DC chain known primarily for its tea, but also its economical yet tasty Japanese food. I can tell you it was the small expense that attracted me to it and made me note it down after seeing a brief write-up in Fodor’s. A sticker on the door noted its inclusion in Rachael Ray’s 40 Dollars a Day program on the Food Network, so I knew we had come to the right place.

Our visit was timed perfectly – we hit the restaurant just before the midday crowd arrived (the line inched out the door soon after we sat down), but were still privy to witness the bustling business they experience at lunch. The interior was warm – medium-tone wood counters wrapped around one side of the room, which displayed Asian-inspired art and calligraphy. The restaurant also benefited from a generous amount of natural light, much of it also being enjoyed by windowsill plants.

Iced Tea (Mack found it all right – refreshing, and not overly sweet)

The menu actually waivered more from their Japanese billing than I expected, offering some pan-Asian favourites such as Thai chicken curry, as well as some Western dishes, like sandwiches and burgers. Most entrees were $8-9, which we thought was fairly reasonable given its proximity to high traffic attractions (a guide called eat. shop. washington dc also mentioned their exceptional salty-sweet cookies – the site is worth taking a look for solid recommendations for DC and other major American cities). Orders were taken and picked up at the counter, which although worked out all right, caused some bottlenecking at the front of the restaurant.

My eyes were immediately drawn to the chicken udon soup ($8.50), primarily because of a recipe I read on the plane. The broth was a touch salty, but the consistency of the udon was perfect. I was also satisfied with the amount of chicken and vegetables included, which rounded out the meal nicely.

Chicken Udon Soup

Mack ordered a chicken bento box ($8.75), which contained fried chicken, rice, sweet potatoes and cucumber-ginger salad. He remarked that the meat was on the dry side, although the creamy potatoes made up for it somewhat.

Chicken Bento Box

While I’m not sure Teaism is unique enough to recommend to travellers (at least not this non-teahouse outpost we visited), it was a sleek restaurant that provided the needed reprieve from the sun and schoolchildren outside.

Teaism
400 8th Street (and other locations)
Washington, DC
(202) 638-6010

DC Dive: Five Guys

I took it as a positive sign when I overheard our pilot and a airport worker discussing their craving for a burger from Five Guys. A Fodor’s recommendation, I singled out the DC area chain primarily because they were open until 11pm – and without guarantee that our flight would be punctual, I figured it was best to seek out late night options within walking distance of our hotel.

I had to laugh at the sign posted on the door, which although deals with a serious subject, seemed a little over the top.

Perhaps they should have had a radioactive icon below the text?

Five Guys would best be described as a dive, but the best kind of dive. Inside, we found a mixed crowd of young, old, and well-suited, and felt right at home with their well-worn wooden floors, dimly lit booths, and walk-up order counter, where kudos to the cashier – she had the “single/double, regular/cajun” questions down to a mechanized pat. I also loved the white board on the wall that let customers know where the day’s potatoes came from (Rexburg, Idaho, in our case).

Order counter

Free peanuts!

Like Harveys, burgers could be customized with any number of free toppings, including lettuce, pickles, grilled onions, grilled mushrooms, green peppers, and a variety of condiments. Our order, a bacon cheeseburger ($4.59), cheeseburger ($3.89) and cajun fries ($2.59) was nothing fancy, but hit the spot. I loved the pillowy bun, and the fries were crisp with just the right amount of kick.

Cheeseburger

Mack with a well-balanced meal

It was a great first meal in DC, but it would only get better from there.

Five Guys
1335 Wisconsin Avenue NW
Washington, DC
(202) 337-0400
Sunday-Thursday 11am-11pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-4pm

Day 1 in DC: Greenery and Georgetown

Day 1 in DC began with an early wakeup call– 5am to be exact. Early flights are my nemesis, but I suppose red eye flights (of which I have never had the pleasure of experiencing), would be worse.

Much needed wake-up coffee (speaking of which, I didn’t know there is now a Starbucks just a stone’s throw after security)

With no direct flights to Washington, we had a brief layover in Toronto, then were on our way to DC. The terminus at Washington Dulles Airport was a bit strange, as the boarding gates were not located in the same facility as the luggage belts and connection to ground transportation. We had to take a shuttle vehicle that carried us between buildings – it seemed like a terribly inefficient system, and though a metro line is in the works, it made us wonder why the terminal was designed that way to begin with.

We eventually made out way to the taxi stand, and driving into the city, what shocked us most was how green it was. Lining the beltways were trees in full bloom, while wildflowers and long grasses were monopolizing roadside spaces. I suppose it shouldn’t have been a surprise, but as it was snowing back in Edmonton that day, the full force of spring was difficult to imagine until we were able to immerse ourselves in it.

Our taxi ride into Foggy Bottom cost us a pretty penny ($60!), but had the benefit of a convenient and stress-free commute to our hotel. We had chosen the George Washington University Inn partly on price, and though it wasn’t the most economical accommodation we found, its proximity to a Metro stop was too attractive to overlook.

George Washington University Inn

We found it to be situated on a quaint street, just a few minutes away from the infamous Watergate complex (which, in addition to being a tourist attraction, also housed a Safeway), as well as the John F. Kennedy Centre for the Performing Arts. The colourful walkups that lined the street helped establish a feeling of home in the area.

Our neighbours for the week

Upon checking in, we found that we had been upgraded to a suite. This entitled us to a room with more space than we knew how to deal with – a large sitting room with a television and desk, kitchenette with stovetop, sink and fridge, and a separate bedroom and bathroom. Our only complaints about the room was the poorly designed bathroom that was significantly lacking in counter space, and hard-lined internet.

Bedroom

After a quick nap, we took advantage of our still-nimble feet (this would change in a hurry) and walked to adjacent Georgetown for dinner. Not connected by Metro, there was shuttle bus service available from two different stops, but at about 15 minutes away, we couldn’t justify waiting for a bus.

Georgetown was a happening place, even on a Monday evening – likely a mix of tourists, locals, and college students gearing up for graduation that week. We didn’t do much deliberate shopping, as we were fairly hungry at this point, but I did take note of shops such as Paper Source that I wanted to return to on a different evening.

Mack in Georgetown

Over the course of our wanderings, we stopped at IceBerry. I had read on a Chowhound thread that the frozen yogurt craze that hit LA and New York a few years back had finally reached DC. I couldn’t resist a cool treat that would hopefully tide us to something more substantial, as I wasn’t sure exactly how far our dining destination was located. Open until 11pm, it seemed to be a nice alternative to a coffee shop or an ice cream parlour, and based on the number of people inside, many agreed.

We ordered just one treat to share – a small strawberry (plain and chocolate were the other options) topped with blackberries. It totalled over $4, and at 95 cents a topping, each blackberry cost us over 20 cents.

Strawberry Frozen Yogurt from IceBerry

Though it was good to try, I have to say I prefer the pureed “real” fruit yogurt offered by Yogen Fruz– nothing ever replaces the textured crunch from strawberry seeds. That said, I wouldn’t mind such a yogurt parlour trend picking up in Edmonton – more late night options are a good thing.

Just as it was getting dark, we reached our desired location – Five Guys.

You can read Mack’s recap of day 1 here.

No Hand-Tossed Dough: Tony’s Pizza Palace

After visiting the new Alberta Avenue farmers’ market, and prior to the artsScene Edmonton launch party, we stopped in at Tony’s Pizza Palace for dinner. One of my coworkers raved about Tony’s after lunch there some time ago, primarily because she could see the chefs hand-toss the dough like in the movies. As a result, I was most looking forward to this aspect of our dining experience.

Based on our initial assessment of the older stucco building, Tony’s seemed to be a family-friendly, neighbourhood pizza place. When we walked in, the décor seemed to match our judgment – dated, but comfortable, with wooden fixtures, clunky chairs and at the back, an open window into the kitchen, where we saw six busy hands and a huge oven behind them.

With the laid-back interior, we were surprised to find that the servers were dressed to the nines. The waiters all had crisp white shirts, black vests, and ties – a major disconnect with their surroundings and the patrons, who for the most part were rocking jeans or casual slacks. Though their service was friendly and efficient, I had to wonder if management confused the desired atmosphere of Tony’s with that of an upscale French bistro.

Interior

At any rate, once settled with our drinks, we perused the menu. We ignored the entrees and pasta dishes and headed straight for their namesake dishes. The “specials” (topping combinations pre-selected without room for substitution) were quite expensive (ranging from $14.25-$21.50), at least when compared with the price to customize our own pizza.

We asked our server how large the medium was, and at 12’’, decided that Mack was hungry enough to warrant ordering two of them, knowing that any leftovers would make a welcome brown bag lunch. I decided on the classic margherita pizza ($14.25 for medium), though tomatoes were absent, while Mack customized a medium pizza with Italian sausage, pepperoni and mushrooms ($15.25 for three toppings). Unfortunately, basil wasn’t a topping option, so I could not have customized my own margherita.

While awaiting our meal, I anxiously watched the kitchen window and waited for the dough-tossing to begin. Unfortunately, my patience went unrewarded, and we did not see a single toss over the course of our evening. We should have asked if they had changed their policy, but our food was delivered shortly and I neglected to do so.

The pizzas were indeed generously-sized, molded perfectly to fit circular pan underneath. Mack noted the crust – not at all greasy and thin but sturdy – he was able to pick up a slice to be eaten without utensils. He much preferred this to its Neapolitan sibling – the chewy, and airy type propagated by Famoso, while I disagreed. The margherita, with its very basic cheese and basil topping, let the crust shine. Mack’s custom pizza, on the other hand, was loaded with meat and mushrooms, and despite the less-than-crispy pepperoni, he enjoyed it. I should also note that the sauce was not overpowering – sometimes a heavy hand is used to distribute the base, but these pizzas had just the right amount of sauce.

Margherita Pizza

Three-topping PIzza with Sausage, Pepperoni and Mushrooms

The isolated location of Tony’s would prevent it from becoming a regular haunt for me, particularly when the downtown location of Famoso, with their lovely charred and chewy crust, is so much more central. But I was happy to have tried it, even without the free pizza tossing entertainment.

Tony’s Pizza Palace
9605 111 Avenue NW
(780) 424-8777
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm; Dinner: Monday-Thursday 4:30-10pm, Friday 4:30pm-midnight, Saturday 2:30pm-midnight, Sunday 4:30-10:30pm

Off the Beaten Path: Oriental Veggie House

I took it upon myself to accompany a visiting consultant for lunch, and having worked with her over several months, thought I knew her well enough to suggest we try a new place within walking distance of the office. As it was one of those gloriously sunny spring days, I thought the brisk walk would do us both good, a refreshing change from the morning long fluorescent-lit meeting.

On Chowhound, the two most frequent responses to the question, “Where can I get good vegetarian/vegan fare?” is Padmanadi and Oriental Veggie House (both lean heavily on soy and taro root products to create a “meat”-like texture). I had been to the former for their monthly buffet, and was curious to see what the latter had in store.

We reached the restaurant just after noon, and found it empty on a Friday. Though that wasn’t a good sign, the friendly proprietor quickly greeted us and led us to a table. The space was larger than I had expected from the outside, and filled with natural light from a bank of windows. Décor was minimal, and though I pointed out to my dining companion that the vinyl tablecloth was in dire need of replacement, our surroundings were pleasant enough.

The menu, printed in an attractive font and bound on thick cardstock, was a pleasant alternative to the large plastic-encased folders typically found at Asian restaurants. Though the combination for two ($28.50 for the specified soup, appetizer, and two entrees) looked interesting, my companion didn’t like the chosen dishes. So instead, we put together our own meal that included a seaweed and tofu soup ($5.95), shredded veggie tofu wrap ($5.95), country style tofu ($8.95) and rice noodles with veggie seafood ($9.50). We opted not to order rice due to the steep $5 charge.

Menu

Over the course of our meal, two other parties joined us, but for a restaurant in the Chinatown area with free parking, it was much too quiet. The upside to this of course, was quick service. We received our first course soon after putting in our order. As we had ordered the small, I was expecting a portion meant for an individual. Instead, we were confronted by a bowl that yielded each of us three servings, brimming with contrasting textures of crunchy seaweed, silky tofu, and pea poppers. The broth was not overpowered by seaweed flavour though, and I found the mildness to be the perfect way to start off the meal.

Seaweed and Tofu Soup

The intriguing tofu wraps were next – I ordered them purely based on the concept, thinking it would be the healthy equivalent of a spring roll. It turns out tough bean curd was used to enfold shredded carrots and bean sprouts, among other vegetables, then pan-fried. The wraps were actually quite greasy, and without the crunch that I was hoping for.

Shredded Veggie Tofu Wraps

The next two dishes came fast and furious, and we struggled to keep up. The country style tofu was reminiscent of a dish that could be ordered at most Chinese eateries serving more traditional fare. Filled with plump cubes of tofu and vegetables, we both wished we had ordered the rice after all – rice would have been the perfect way to soak up the delicious sweetness of the sauce. The rice noodles in our second entree were moist and cooked well, but I wasn’t too fond of the overly chewy “seafood”.

Country Style Tofu

Rice Noodles with Seafood

Our lunch totalled about $40 (with a $3 pot of tea), definitely not inexpensive when compared with other area establishments. The owner did point out their two chest freezers containing products that customers could take home to prepare themselves. For example, a popular item was their faux chicken.

Oriental Veggie House did provide an interesting alternative to the usual Asian cuisine, and is worth a try if you’re looking for something different.

Oriental Veggie House
10586 100 Street NW
(780) 424-0463

Crumb Explosion: Van Loc

I needed a quick lunch stop en route to Lucky 97 for a few groceries, so decided to take the opportunity to visit Van Loc in Chinatown.

My usual banh mi haunt is Nhon Hoa 2 on 97th Street, but after two recent reviews in Vue and the Journal, I was curious to see what Van Loc had to offer, as both pieces noted that the baguettes they used were second to none.

I stopped in just after noon, and it was clear they were in the middle of their lunch rush – customers continuously filtered in for take out orders. The space was definitely larger than either Nhon Hoa or Kim Tuyet, and its predominantly white interior gleamed even brighter with the natural light provided by the bank of windows. I was happy to see there were three tables to allow for eating in, though they probably could use a good scrubbing (the disadvantage of having white furniture).

I looked at the menu briefly, but already knew I wanted my usual variety, the shredded pork banh mi ($3.50). After a brief wait, I received my sandwich in a white paper submarine bag. The sandwich I was given definitely beats their competitors in the size category. The amount of cilantro, pickled carrots and cucumber included also seemed more generous than others I’d received. As for the bread, I actually found it to be the weak link of the sandwich – it had been over-toasted to the point of being too hard, making it a little difficult to eat (and definitely messy; the requisite crumb explosions made me thankful I was eating alone).

Shredded Pork Banh Mi

As the other elements of the sandwich were good, I’d definitely be willing to give Van Loc another try, with perhaps a request to keep the toasting time down to a minimum.

Van Loc
10648 98 Street NW
(780) 413-8887

Solid Choice: Back Home Fish & Chips

On a lazy weekend when I didn’t feel inspired to cook, Mack and I decided to finally patronize Back Home Fish & Chips, just down the street from his apartment. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve been tempted by the wafting, intoxicating smell of good ol’ grease when passing by, but the circumstance to visit them didn’t present itself until now.

 Back Home Fish and Chips

The restaurant always looked so quaint from the outside, with their checkered tablecloths and large bank of windows letting in a healthy amount of natural light. When we walked in, we found it to be much the same as our external impression, and found a seat in a cozy booth. The rest of the diners in Back Home seemed to be made up of regulars, which didn’t surprise me. I find that most stalwart fish and chip fans will have one joint they believe to have the “best” product above all others in the city, and deign to listen to any other opinions (you would be hard pressed, for example, to convince my parents that anything other than Joey’s Only would offer them the quality and value for their dollar).

Menus

Our efficient waitress brought us menus and took our drink orders straightaway. While the menu did offer their namesake dish, they unfortunately did not offer a choice of fish – haddock was the only type available. On the bright side, I was surprised to find all types of seafood listed, from calamari to clams to cod tongues and cheeks. Their prices were fairly reasonable, meaning we probably could have split an appetizer without breaking the bank. We decided in the end to just proceed to the main course; I opted for the small fish and chips ($11.95), which contained three pieces of fish, while Mack was easily swayed by the shrimp and chips ($15.95).

Our dishes arrived in speedy fashion, helped by the fact that we were the only ones who put in an order at that point. Though both my fish and fries were a bit dark (perhaps signalling a need to change the oil), both for the most part were crispy. The kitchen definitely did not scrimp on portion sizes, and even with their smallest plate, I struggled to finish my meal. The light batter concealed an flaky and moist fish, fork tender underneath its shell. Mack also enjoyed his shrimp, which were flavourful and satisfying.

Small Fish and Chips

Shrimp and Chips

Final verdict: while our experience wasn’t unexceptional, it wasn’t particularly memorable either. So if a fish and chip craving were to hit us, we wouldn’t hesitate to return, but Back Home won’t become a destination restaurant either.

Back Home Fish & Chips
12323 Stony Plain Road NW
(780) 451-7871
Monday-Thursday 11:30am-9:30pm, Friday 11:30am-10pm, Saturday noon-9:30pm, Sunday noon-8pm