Tag: restaurant reviews

Al Fresco on the Boardwalk: Sabor Divino

Sabor Divino is the latest restaurant to join the downtown fray, with a prime location on the Boardwalk along 103 Street – close enough for mall shoppers, theatre goers and festival revellers on the Square to access on foot, but far enough from main traffic thoroughfares to allow for a patio experience shielded somewhat from noise.

Although many (myself included) have labelled Sabor Divno a Portuguese restaurant, co-owner Christian Mena refuses to pigeonhole his eatery, and instead prefers to say their cuisine is inspired by a multitude of flavours, including those from Portugal, Spain, and the Mediterranean.

My first meal at Sabor Divino was a part of Fork Fest, an eight day celebration of Original Fare independent restaurants in Edmonton, offering pre-fixe meal deals for $20 or $35 (Mack had dined there once before, with his colleagues for lunch). The Fork Fest menu that Mack and I enjoyed at Sabor definitely seemed to sample a bit from each of the above regions, with the overall consensus being the kitchen was heavy on both balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

We opted to take advantage of a warm Edmonton day (which seems to be rare this summer), and chose a seat on Sabor’s small patio made up of three two-person tables complete with parasols. I loved that the ground level of the restaurant opened up onto the street, inviting a feeling of al fresco dining even for the tables technically tucked inside. And though the seats on the main level looked sumptuous, befitting the presence of a grand piano in the centre amongst a dark wood and dimly lit setting, I didn’t regret our choice of table.

I spy Mack’s BlackBerry…

The tapas menu was tempting, and one I’d likely consider more closely on a non-Fork Fest occasion. As it were, Mack and I built our individual meals from a $35 fixed menu comprised of two appetizers, two entrees, and four dessert options. I chose the pasta fagioli soup, black cod Mediterraneo, and Leite Crème “Dona Irene”. Mack, in an effort to supply me with more blog fodder (even at my explicit objection), ordered the mista salad, chicken in red wine, and cheesecake with black cherries.

While enjoying our bread, the pair seated behind us were accosted by a passerby looking for a smoke. They began talking, and we couldn’t help but listen (yes, we’re eavesdropping diners – but in our defense, their raised voices made it difficult not to do so). It turned out the wayward pedestrian was a bartender at the nearby L’Azia, and invited the pair to the restaurant. She described it with the following gem: “It’s an infusion restaurant. Like Taste of Edmonton, only year round.”

Bread with olive oil, butter and balsamic vinegar

I thought our appetizers came much too soon after our bread basket had been delivered (I barely made it through two slices), but Mack didn’t mind getting right to the meal. The pasta and bean soup was a hearty way to start off, though the beans were on the too-soft side, permeating the broth with a chalky texture. Mack’s salad was beautiful as it was a towering achievement, with the even larger achievement being that he managed to finish all of the greens. His only comment was that it was overdressed.

Pasta Fagioli Soup

Mista Salad

I expected the entrees to interrupt our first course, but I was pleasantly surprised – the rest of the meal was timed quite nicely. My black cod was a visually stunning dish that screamed freshness – a bed of bright green kale accentuated with bursts of rouge tomato and ink-black olives. The fish had perfectly crossed char marks, and, though I’d been warned that the kitchen often undercooked their seafood, found no unwelcome rawness inside. The pops of sprinkled salt pockets were a welcome touch, and my only flavouring complaint was the heavy balsamic pour.

Black Cod Mediterraneo

Like mine, Mack’s chicken in red wine was also generously portioned, with a theme of red throughout – red onions, red grapes and red pesto sauce. Though enjoyable, it was the less unique of our two entrees.

Chicken in Red Wine

Dessert was presented as a “taster”, which, after the preceding plate, was just the right size. My Portuguese version of a crème brulee was fired fresh to order, with a richer, more flavourful custard than usually encountered. Mack enjoyed the cheesecake portion of his dessert, but could have done without the cherries, which tasted to him like the canned variety.

Leite Crème “Dona Irene”

Cheesecake with Black Cherries

At the end of our meal, I asked our waiter if the restaurant was considering any sustainable seafood choices (guided by, for example, Blue Ocean or Monterey Bay). He said that he himself used to cook, and that sustainability was very important to him personally. As a result, he would be bringing in samples from Ocean Odyssey Inland for the chef to try very soon.

With solid service and a seafood focus that differentiates it from other mid-range establishments, Sabor Divino is a welcome addition to the family of Original Fare restaurants as well as Edmonton’s food scene.

Sabor Divino
10220 103 Street
(780) 757-1114
Main dining room: Monday-Friday 11:30am-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 5-10pm; Cafe lounge: Monday-Friday 2:30-10pm, Saturday-Sunday 5-10pm

A Labour of Love: Soul Soup

There are a handful of eateries I wish I could patronize more often, but due to short operating hours or hard-to-reach locations, I am unable to. Soul Soup falls into the first category, only open from 11-6pm from Monday-Friday, which is convenient to those in close proximity to the core, but becomes a destination spot otherwise.

As a result, I’ve only been to Soul Soup a few times, even though I have enjoyed my past experiences there. As the name suggests, the restaurant primarily serves soup (although they were also offering one rice bowl alternative during my last visit). With numerous varieties on endless rotation, the magnetic menu board above the order counter changes daily, displaying one type each of vegetarian, fish and meat soups. A small 8 oz. serving is $4.75, a medium 16 oz. is $7 and a 32 oz. sells for $11. Each bowl comes with a fresh roll. For those looking for a post-work meal, Soul Soup also sells containers of frozen soup, as well as Culina’s TV dinners.

The interior is chic, brown neutrals accented by pops of pink. I particularly love the light fixtures fashioned out of ladles.

Interior

Between the day’s mulligatawny with apple and pistachios, tomato and shrimp with tarragon and Asian ginger braised pork with rice noodles, the latter won my vote. And though I did feel somewhat hungry that day, I decided to order the small, thinking that the bread would help fill me up. I asked for my order to stay, and settled in on one of the high tables to the side of the counter (the table was even equipped with a built-in purse hook!). Three other stools along the narrow divider that doubled as a table were still up for grabs, but nearly all customers who walked in took their meals to go.

My soup was delivered to me almost instantly, on a retro-themed tray accompanied by the aforementioned roll. The plastic cutlery had been neatly tied up, with a small fruit candy tucked inside – a nice touch. The soup itself was lovely – creative to start with (not your usual beef-and-pasta variety), it was clearly a labour of love. The carrots were tender and soft, and the broth had a full flavour to it, something only attained from lengthy low and slow simmering. Later in the afternoon, I did regret ordering the small, however – I should have upgraded.

Soup

I did have a chance to ask the owner whether or not Soul Soup plans to join Twitter (I’ve mentioned in the past that they are the ideal restaurant to do so – a tweet before lunch about their 3 soups du jour). She said I was the “eighth person” to ask them that question recently, but because they are only a two-person operation, she doesn’t have the time to update their status. She said their phone line recording system was working just fine as a way to provide information to customers. I don’t think the “time” excuse is valid, but with Mack’s help, was able to locate an unofficial Soul Soup account which seems to do a pretty good job of listing the day’s soups.

If you’re looking for a fast but homemade lunch downtown outside of the food court recesses, I’d highly recommend giving Soul Soup a try.

Soul Soup
140-10020 101A Avenue
(780) 409-8272
Monday-Friday 11am-6pm

Not Our Kettle of Fish: Hook

Mack came up with the title.

Although “seafood” isn’t a dirty word, certain varieties of fish, including bluefin tuna and chilean sea bass are heading in that direction. I readily acknowledge that I need to learn more about sustainable seafood practices, and while eating in a restaurant doesn’t necessarily provide education, I found Hook to be at least cognizant of the need for change.

Hook

Located on a busy Georgetown street, Hook’s subdued blue awning could be easily missed. The tiny storefront gave way to a long, rectangular space, loosely divided into a small front dining area, a bar, and a larger dining room in the back. Décor was minimal, but helped establish a serene sense of being – white light fixtures, sealife art, polished hardwood.

Mack at Hook

We were seated in the front, sandwiched between a glass pane that separated the host from our table, and another table that bordered the storefront window. It was a little distracting, having to see and hear other patrons as they arrived and were greeted, but the rear dining area probably wasn’t much better – the floor echoed the conversation in the room.

The menu was obviously seafood focused, with a token chicken and beef entrée available to placate those unable or unwilling to eat seafood. Our server was keen to answer our questions, particularly when it came to decoding the varieties of fish we were less familiar with. However, his efficiency bordered on annoying during our meal, as he literally stood behind us and waited for clean plates to clear. Surveillance dining is not for us.

We decided to start with an order of the grilled calamari with potato salad and basil walnut pesto, which the server promised would be amazing. Our entrees were based entirely upon our desire to try a new type of fish and our server’s depiction of them. I ended up with a prosciutto-wrapped lingcod, which was likened to most other white fish, while Mack chose moonfish, described as being “pink”, which we compared to the flesh colour of salmon.

While we waited for our appetizers, we munched on slices of baguette. Instead of butter or perhaps olive oil and balsamic vinegar, we were given a bowl of mayonnaise to accompany our bread – needless to say, we chose to enjoy our bread unadorned.

Bread course

The calamari plate was plumped up with a fair quantity of potato side. I have never been a fan of squid’s chewy consistency, but Mack was impressed by the contrasting flavours – the slightly charred tips, and the tang of a citrus finish.

Grilled Calamari

Both of our entrees contained a fair amount of fish. My lingcod was tender, but in terms of flavour, was nothing special. I’m not sure I would have been able to distinguish this variety from others. The underlying gnocchi was actually the star of the plate anyway, and easily rivalled Proof’s meltingly delicious dumplings.

Lingcod with Gnocchi

Unfortunately, Mack had a terrible experience with his fish – it turned out our server’s definition of “pink” fish spoke more to the cooking technique of simply searing the fish, leaving the core of the steak raw. He probably should have sent it back to request that it be cooked through, but he managed to finish most of it.

Moonfish

Dessert was a chocolate tart with ice cream and caramel. Made by “DC’s Pastry Chef of the Year”, it was indeed a decadent desert, the richness of the chocolate cut through by the salt and caramel. This was a savoury-sweet combination I enjoyed thoroughly.

Chocolate Tart

With our billfold we were given a handy pocket-sized copy of The Blue Ocean Institute’s Guide to Ocean Friendly Seafood. It listed, in descending order, types of seafood that are relatively abundant, with fishing or farming methods that cause relatively little damage to habitat and other wildlife, with species containing high levels of mercury or PCBs clearly marked. It is a great resource to have (and one which I now keep with me at all times), but for a restaurant that prides itself on sustainable sourcing (and to some extent, education of the consumer), this guide should have either been provided at the beginning of the meal, or incorporated into the menu somehow.

As a whole, our meal at Hook was the least memorable of our restaurant experiences in DC.

Hook
3241 M St NW
Washington, DC
(202) 625-4488

Where Cosby and Obama Eat Free: Ben’s Chili Bowl

Ben’s Chili Bowl is a DC institution. “Proudly black owned and operated since 1958”, read a sign posted alongside their menu board. It has seen the black population grow and prosper, react to the assassination of Martin Luther King, Jr., and watched as the neighbourhood took a turn for the worse. But Ben’s has survived it all, and continues to thrive, gaining national accord for its food.

Ben’s Chili Bowl

The restaurant qualifies as a bonafide tourist destination itself, as it is included in every guidebook, in addition to having been featured in Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations and Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. It was the first eatery that I put on our list when I started to plan our trip.

Though I thought we had timed our visit well, conveniently arriving after 1pm, the order area was absolutely packed – the line stretched across the counter and wound itself around and back towards the seating area.

We had to be patient, but the wait was made bearable by the upbeat, funky tunes and having a front row seat to the kitchen and the culture of the place. Even though customers continued to flood through the doors, the ease at which the staff worked through it was a pleasure to watch. Our time in line also allowed us to spot a sign just behind the cashier that read, “People who eat free at Ben’s Chili Bowl: Bill Cosby and the Obamas”.

Smokies on the grill

Our order of two chili dogs, chili cheese fries and a drink came in at just $16, making it our best value for dollar meal of the trip. We had a seat at one of the tables, and waited for our order to arrive.

At Ben’s Chili Bowl

A smoldering tray of food was soon delivered – two hot dogs draped in a generous chili cape, and fries smothered in a deliciously messy combination of cheese and their trademark chili. There wasn’t any chance we wouldn’t like our food – greasy spoon diners are a particular soft spot for both of us. The chili packed a fair amount of heat, while the near-pureed beef was the right consistency to accompany both the hot dog and fries.

Chili Dog and chips

Chili Cheese Fries

Near the end of our meal, a fellow patron approached our table, and pointed out to Mack that President Obama had sat in his chair not too long ago, just across from Mayor Adrian Fenty. Though we had noticed that the Seal of the President had been placed on the wall just above the chair, it hadn’t occurred to us that the reason for it was to act as a marker. Just above the seal was a blown-up photo of Obama and Fenty, as well as a smaller picture of the President posing with diner staff.

Mack in Obama’s seat!

The man then asked Mack if his choice of seat thus pointed out his destiny to become the next President. Mack replied, “I can’t – I’m Canadian.”

Perhaps if Governor Schwarzenegger can change the Constitution, there will be hope for Mack yet. Thanks Ben’s for a great experience.

Ben’s Chili Bowl
1213 U St NW
Washington, DC
(202) 667-0909

A Well-Oiled Machine: Cactus Club Cafe

After running some errands in the west end, Mack and I converged on Cactus Club Cafe for dinner, spurned on somewhat by gift cards we had on hand. Our first trip since being pampered at their VIP opening, we were ready to see what the restaurant offered on a day-to-day basis.

I was happy to see that the patio was open, but as both the dining room and outdoor seating required at least a fifteen minute wait, we elected instead to wander into the half-full lounge. About a half hour later, the lounge was packed, so we were happy to arrive when we did.

The bellini was calling my name that day, and as I found at the opening, it was refreshing yet deceivingly potent. On a more elegant occasion, I would have ordered the sablefish, but I felt like fries and a sandwich that day. I was eager to sample a full-size version of their BBQ duck clubhouse ($17), which had been my favourite item that night in April. Mack decided on their aptly named The Burger ($14), which also seemed fitting for the lounge setting. As Mack was feeling a bit puckish, we also sprung for the smoked cheddar spinach dip ($11.25) to start.

Bellini

Service was brisk throughout our stay; Cactus Club was rolling like a well-oiled machine. Our appetizer arrived in good time, hot and perfectly cheesy. I typically don’t seek out spinach dips, but this version, packed with grilled chicken, fresh tomatoes, parmesan and mozzarella, took the edge off the sour cream.

Smoked Cheddar Spinach Dip

My duck clubhouse arrived looking rather small, but once I started to devour the sandwich, I realized its richness more than made up for size. It was a bit messy to eat, but the layers of carved duck, pan-fried chicken, and crisped pancetta, sandwiched between pecan fruit bread, were worth it. The fries were hot and crispy, but nothing special.

BBQ Duck Clubhouse

Mack’s burger was even more of a task to eat – the pool of liquid at the bottom of his plate grew to a formidable size by the end. He liked it – a juicy, tender patty, coupled with classic toppings of aged cheddar, sautéed mushrooms, and bacon.

The Burger

As WEM restaurants go, Cactus Club is my new go-to eatery after a day of shopping. I’m just not sure I’d go out of my way to eat there, knowing that a crowd and a car jam would be waiting for me.

Cactus Club Cafe
1946, 8882 170 Street NW
(780) 489-1002

Ballroom Brunch: Sunday Brunch at the Mac

Instead of our usual upscale birthday dinner, I decided to substitute an upscale birthday brunch. The Sunday brunch in the Empire Ballroom at Hotel MacDonald, priced at $48 per person, is undoubtedly the most expensive in the city, a seeming extravagance even in times of excess. I had heard positive things about the buffet from others, however, and decided it was worth the experimental splurge.

Mack and I embraced the opportunity to dress up, though I suspected we might be overdressed. I was right – some patrons were in their weekend finery, while others were clean casual at best, in faded jeans and shorts. While I respect that patrons can choose their level of formality, it just seemed more fitting for this particular setting to aim for elegance. The ballroom, flush with natural light, had an inherent grandness to it, with high, detailed ceilings and numerous chandeliers. I loved the quiet ambiance and the reflective history of the space, acknowledging that the venue has served many significant guests throughout its time.

Empire Ballroom

Our tableside view

When we arrived, we were greeted by a very professional hostess, who gave us a tour of the food selections before showing us to our seat – a mix of hot and cold breakfast and lunch options were available, including carving and omelette stations. A dessert bar was situated in the ballroom itself.

Pastries and salad bar

Cold seafood selections

Dessert bar

Soon after sitting down, our server immediately offered us a cocktail of champagne and fresh orange juice. Much to my surprise, our drink was continually filled up throughout our stay, instead of a one-glass offering, which is what I was expecting. The mimosa was actually quite refreshing, in a way that urged us on to fill up just “one more plate”.

I resisted the urge to try everything (a mistake I often make at buffets, usually too late to enjoy the quality entrees), and instead was initially selective with what I chose. We skipped over the salads and the soup, but were swayed by the flaky pastries to start. The hot breakfast entrees also made an appearance on our first plates, which included corned beef hash, maple sausage, bacon, pancakes and eggs benedict. Our conclusion: it was darn good bacon, and the cinnamon pastry wasn’t bad either.

Mack’s first helping of bacon

Mack’s plate #1

My plate #1

Our second helpings involved a mixture of breakfast and lunch entrees, though Mack focused more on the former, a traditionalist when it comes to his first meal of the day. Of the lunch entrees, which included pasta, chicken, roast beef, lamb and halibut, the oven-roasted halibut was the standout, enveloped in a creamy sauce. The charcuterie and cheese plates were nice additions as well.

Cheese plate

Mack’s plate #2

My plate #2

A custom omelette formed our third course, where anything from shrimp, ham, tomatoes, bell peppers, mushroom and cheese could be thrown in. While the omelettes were good, it was the novelty of selecting ingredients and watching the dish be prepared that made it special.

My mushroom, ham, bell pepper and cheese omelette

Dessert finished us off. It was tough not to take one of each off the dessert table, which appealed to the eyes first. There were warm crepes and chocolate fondue in addition to an array of cold desserts, including sliced fruit, cheesecakes, mousse, and slightly out of place, rainbow Jell-O. Mack tried a slice of the chocolate cheesecake, but found it too rich for his liking. He instead preferred (yes), the martini glass of cubed Jello-O. I had some fruit dipped in the chocolate fondue, but my favourite dessert had to be the maple and white chocolate mousse – light and almost frothy, the mousse just melted in my mouth.

Dessert!

The meal had occurred at such a leisurely pace that, filled to the brim, we were taken aback that two hours had somehow passed. The service was exceptional throughout; unlike some buffets where drink orders and refills are sporadic and inconsistent, the wait staff checked on us continuously, without seeming intrusive or redundant. When we needed an extra hand to help us take a photograph, our server didn’t hesitate to accompany us outside for a quick snapshot on the patio either.

During our meal, we had seen numerous parties take advantage of the glorious day by wandering the grounds just outside the ballroom. We followed in their footsteps, and took in the view of the river valley, as well as the impressive angle of the hotel from behind.

Hotel MacDonald

Me and Mack

We both agreed that while neither of us consumed $48 worth of food that day, we had paid for a quality meal offering countless choices, a fair share of pampering, and a setting fit for royalty. We may not do it again, but it was a great venue to celebrate an occasion with a loved one.

Hotel MacDonald
10065 – 100th Street
(780) 424-5181
Sunday Brunch served from 10am-2pm

Destination Dining: Culina Highlands

Two years ago I celebrated my birthday at Bacon. And while it wasn’t exactly déjà vu, my choice of Culina Highlands this year did naturally allow for some reminiscence.

I have been meaning to make it to Culina Highlands since interviewing proprietor Cindy Lazarenko back in October soon after it opened. Unfortunately, the location isn’t terribly conducive to my usual principle of geographic dining – eating near the site of where I am, or where I have to be. I made an exception this time, and asked a few girlfriends to join me for dinner on a Friday night.

I had made a reservation over the phone (I found out only after that Culina subscribes to Open Table), and received an e-mail reminder of our date two days prior – a good use of technology in my book. When May and I arrived at 6, we were promptly seated at a table in the half-full restaurant.

Though some things had been shifted since my last visit, the space was still impossibly tiny. Our table, situated in the centre of the space, was flush against a wall, while our chairs were nearly touching the party seated behind us – the nimble servers should be commended for being able to navigate the tiny passageway in between. Lack of elbow room aside, I do like the intimacy a small room creates, heightened in Culina by the graphics of Ian Craig, funky light fixtures, and rich wall colours. I also love the bright blue bookshelf by the open kitchen, which were showcasing Jam Lady spreads and Kerstin’s Chocolates’ Chocophilia.

Interior (shot taken in November 2008 – furniture has shifted since then)

Due to a time mix-up, Annie and Janice didn’t arrive until 6:30. The servers were really patient with our table until our entire party arrived, but once we had all been settled with menus, they did let a little too much time pass before inquiring about our order.

I had heard so many good things about the Kalyna Platter ($20) that I couldn’t pass it up; Annie agreed with me. May and Janice decided on that night’s special – PEI mussels in a Thai curry sauce ($20). Setting up too much food for myself, I added the day’s soup ($7) – mushroom with duxelle – as an appetizer.

My soup arrived promptly, with a beautiful floating crostini and garnish. The crunchy, savoury bite was actually my favourite part of the dish, though the soup itself was as soothing as I was hoping for. The soup had a nice base with a kick from something I wasn’t able to identify.

Mushroom Soup with Duxelle

The Kalyna platter contained a deceiving amount of food: two Kubassa halves (pan-fried to a crispy ideal), an assemblage of lazy cabbage rolls (the rice had an aromatic, robust flavour), and four perogies (I am slowly realizing that I can’t distinguish between good and great perogies). Both May and Janice liked their mussel dish (and the toasted baguettes that easily soaked up the broth). I should note that all dishes were plated with care – presentation seemed to be a kitchen mainstay.

Kalyna Platter

PEI Mussels in a Thai Curry Sauce

When we received our bill, we made a double take at the yellow cut-out placed underneath the bowl of mints. Annie realized it was a sheet meant to be burned at altars honoring those that have passed, and not, as she put it, “a Chinese doily.” Though we weren’t offended at their mistaken use of the papers, we thought it best to inform the staff. They said that they would alert management.

“This is not a Chinese doily.”

I was also able to make use of the Original Fare VIP card I picked up a few weeks ago – I applied at their booth at the City Centre Farmer’s Market, and will be getting a gift certificate for 2% back from my Original Fare expenditures at the end of the year. A pretty good deal if you ask me!

We had an enjoyable time at Culina Highlands (though it would be hard not to when the base of our experience was good conversation), and we didn’t encounter anything that would prevent a repeat visit. My only wish is still for nearby attractions – for all the charm in the neighbourhood’s quiet streets, there still isn’t enough of a draw for me to make an exclusive trip for a stand alone meal.

Culina Highlands
6509 112 Avenue
(780) 477-2422
Lunch: Tuesday-Friday, 11am-2pm; Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 10am-2pm

Great Broth: Pho Hoan Pasteur

In our quest to try all of the pho houses in Edmonton, Dickson introduced me to Pho Hoan Pasteur, a small restaurant located in a strip mall across the street from the aviation museum. Over our lunchtime stay, I was surprised at how busy it was on the random weekday – perhaps it wasn’t such a well kept secret as the location seemed to suggest.

The decor was nothing special, and really, with the checkered floor and red booths, the interior could be mistaken for a donair shop or a family-oriented Italian eatery.

Interior

We each ordered variants of our usual beef noodle soup: steak, fatty flank and crunchy (yes, I know it doesn’t make sense, but that’s how it reads on the menu) for Dickson, at $7.25 for a large bowl, and steak and meatballs for me, at $6.35 for a small bowl. We also decided to spring for the green onion cakes ($), and were told that they “take a long time to make” when we ordered them. As we only had an hour for lunch, we wondered what kind of setback the appetizer would bring.

Thankfully, the staff had the prudence to bring us the more timely-to-prepare pho first. The broth was easily some of the best I have ever had in Edmonton – clear and bursting with flavour, the stock had clearly been prepared with care. The meatballs were also notable – sometimes just a protein placeholder, these meatballs had actually been well-seasoned, and did not taste like they had been in the deep freeze for months.

Pho with Steak and Meatballs

Pho with Steak, Fatty Flank and Crunchy

The green onion cakes arrived, and though promising, were ultimately disappointing. Too greasy, and without many green onions to speak of, they weren’t worth the wait.

Green Onion Cakes

The only downside to Pho Hoan Pasteur is that it isn’t within walking distance of my office – there isn’t any way that I can get there without a vehicle within my narrow lunch parameters. Ah well, on to the next challenger!

Pho Hoan Pasteur
11443 Kingsway NW
(780) 761-1989

Sustainable Comfort: Founding Farmers

“Local” and “sustainability” are two of the key buzzwords in the restaurant industry right now, so it wasn’t surprising that Founding Farmers, a fairly new addition to DC’s restaurant scene, seems to live and breathe both of those practices. After reading their mission statement on their website, I was hooked, despite seeing both hit-and-miss reviews on Chowhound:

“The Founding Farmers name represents a combination of ideas: it is a celebration of the land, and the American family farmer; it is a nod to the founding fathers of our country, many of whom owned and farmed land that surrounds Washington, DC; and it is a place where true, sustainably farmed, grown and harvested American foods reminiscent of traditions from across the land are brought to our guests.”

Pig and bird light fixtures

I had made a reservation for us about a week prior through Open Table, and boy, was I glad I did. On a random Wednesday, the wait for a party of two was 35 minutes (recession, what recession?). We should have asked if any tables were available on the first floor, as it was bordered by two sides of windows, and sharing the space with a large bar made the dining area a little more casual. Upstairs, where we were led, was more formal: window shades, casual-cool dark wood furniture, and rounded banquets with some semblance of privacy. There were some rustic touches sprinkled throughout though – a shelf of large coloured jars of fruit and vegetables stood in one corner, while the same tungsten-baring light bulbs as seen in Proof hung from the ceiling. And too cute – water served from old-fashioned milk jars. Our table was known as the “communal table”, a beautifully lacquered piece formed from a section of a single trunk. Though Mack initially resented our placement, when a large, friendly group joined us later that night, we did end up interacting with them throughout our meal, as they asked us for dish recommendations.

Our communal table

The menu was massive, filled with crowd-pleasing comfort food favourites, from chicken pot pie to pot roast to shrimp and grits. Dishes were a little on the pricey side, but understandable given their sourcing of local ingredients. Based on the Chowhound chatter, the baby cheeseburgers (6 for $14) were non-negotiable, and to round off my beef intake for the week, I decided on the farmer’s meatloaf ($16) – it wasn’t until later that night that I realized how much ground beef I had consumed that day. Mack, a sucker for macaroni and cheese, gave their version a spin, which involved handmade macaroni and lobster and gouda-gruyere cheese ($25). Founding Farmers does not serve a complimentary bread course, following in the tail wind of other upscale eateries in the U.S. that charge for a then-necessarily high-quality bread basket. Thankfully, we didn’t have to wait long for our appetizer plate, with six mini burgers and (a bonus) fries. They were easily the best sliders I’ve ever had – with soft house-made bread that cushioned the patty. The ground-to-order beef had been cooked to medium (slightly pink inside), and the crunch of the sour pickle inside was a nice touch. The fries were great, though slightly too salty.

Baby Cheeseburgers

When our entrees arrived, we knew finishing our meal would be difficult. My thick slice of meatloaf, made with ground beef and mushrooms, was accompanied by two gravies, which helped bring out some of the inherent flavour in the meat. Though the dish itself was very good, by the end of my serving, it became a little redundant.

Farmer’s Meatloaf with Yukon Gold Potatoes and Today’s Vegetable

Mack found the kitchen to have been quite generous with the lobster, but faced a similar obstacle with a very rich dish. He commented that the cheese was a bit like cheese whiz, actually, and was disappointed that there wasn’t any crispy, melted excess on top.

Lobster Macaroni and Cheese

It is worth noting that service was both hit and miss that night – our server was quite eager and attentive, right up until we put in our order. It took us a while to finally get a needed water refill.

As a whole, I applaud Founding Farmers for the concept behind the restaurant, and their commitment to sourcing quality, local ingredients. Something was missing for me, and though I can’t put my finger on it, I know Mack disagrees with me – it was his favourite restaurant experience in DC.

Founding Farmers
1924 Pennsylvania Ave NW
Washington, DC
(202) 822-8783

Capitol Escape: Jimmy T’s Place

While Mack and I consistently bemoan the lack of diners in Edmonton, we take every opportunity to patronize neighbourhood diners when out of town.

Jimmy T’s Place was such a diner, located just ten minutes away from the hustle and bustle of Capitol Hill, it afforded a temporary refuge from fellow tourists and busyness.

Jimmy T’s Place

A Fodor’s recommendation, like Teaism, I was drawn to this restaurant primarily because of the price, but also for its diner billing. I loved the interior, which appeared as if it hadn’t been retouched since it opened – pipes were exposed, paint was chipped, seat cushions were ripped – and yet, combined with the vaulted metallic ceiling and counter service, it looked like it had been lived-in, endearingly cozy.

Interior

Unfortunately, the food didn’t quite live up to our affection for the décor. Mack’s eggs benedict (they serve all-day breakfast), was serviceable, with a crisp English muffin base, but the potatoes were sorely undercooked. My burger was moist, but really nothing special. Our biggest beef was actually how long we had to wait for the food – we watched as several walk-ins received their orders long before ours had even reached the grill.

Eggs Benedict

Cheeseburger and Fries

I’d recommend Jimmy T’s for the escape, but not for the food.

Jimmy T’s Place
501 E Capitol St SE
Washington, DC
(202) 546-3646