Toronto Redux: Restaurants Galore!

I’ve been a delinquent blogger, always posting about things very late in the game. But hopefully some time this summer, I’ll finally catch up! That’s the hope, anyway, at this halfway point in the year…

This post refers to my March 2012 Toronto trek, which I also wrote about here and here. I’ll be back again to recap my May 2012 trip in future posts.

I’m amazed Amanda and I were able to fit in so many restaurants in those six days, in between attending a conference. But a girl’s gotta eat, right?

The Stockyards

The Stockyards was without a doubt the most disappointing experience we had, which was a shame because it was some of the best food we ate that week.

Located near the Saint Claire West station (a great example of transit-oriented development, with a grocery store right above the subway and drugstores, restaurants and other amenities within three blocks), we read about The Stockyards in Where, and a quick search online yielded an irresistible brunch menu.

The restaurant is tiny – 18 bar-style seats. When we arrived, there was already a number of people waiting for seats in the de facto lobby. While we were more than ready to wait, we weren’t prepared to be ignored by the two servers. One walked past us twice without acknowledging us, and the other proceeded to answer the phone and have a prolonged personal conversation when we approached her at the counter. After we were seated at the bar with a view of the kitchen, we were asked to move to seats on the opposite wall to make room for a larger party. The server offered us a complimentary biscuit to make up for the move, which was nice, but the service didn’t really improve from there. Coffee refills were scarce, and though Amanda had ordered the same dish as the patron next to me, he was afforded a dish of wet naps while she was not. Maybe The Stockyards is a place where only the vocal and aggressive are served well, but if that’s the case, it’s an even stronger reason for us never to return.

The Stockyards

Interior

As I mentioned, the food really was great. What can I say about the fried chicken and waffles ($13)? I thought The Drake was the epitome of fried chicken, but I was wrong – the skin was incredibly crispy, but even better, the meat beneath it was so juicy and moist it actually made it messy to eat. We also loved the play of sweetness and heat from the chili maple molasses citrus glaze.

The Stockyards

Fried chicken and waffles

The biscuits with sausage gravy ($11) was a monster of a dish. The biscuits, flaky and warm, were perfection, and the eggs were a creamy dream.

The Stockyards

Biscuits with sausage gravy

A shame, because Amanda and I will never return to The Stockyards.

Bannock

At some point it became a mission for Amanda and me to visit all of Olivier & Bonacini’s restaurants. We already covered Jump and Canoe last year, so this time around, Bannock and Luma were on our hit list.

Located in the Hudson’s Bay downtown, Bannock connects to this historic Canadian company by purporting a philosophy of “Canadian comfort food”. It’s also the only restaurants I’ve ever dined in to feature a fishbowl window that looks directly into the store, but without the dingy cafeteria vibe. The interior of Bannock could be described as an urban cabin, with “aged” wood beams lending a rustic but polished look. Paper placemat menus completed the playful theme.

Bannock

“Wine” display at Bannock

We were seated on the banquet wall, which was spaced so narrowly that at times, it felt like a communal table. We happily chatted with the neighbours (openly gawking at their orders, and vice versa), though it did make getting in and out of the bench seating a bit of a challenge.

I couldn’t help but order their signature HBC cocktail (vodka, peach schnapps, cranberry juice and peach puree). It tasted, not surprisingly, like juice, though I have to say I expected a bit more colour homage in the drink, with layers, or at least the use of some throwback spirits.

Amanda and I split three dishes that night. The first, a Prairie grain salad ($9), was the starter equivalent of a kitchen sink, but in a good way! Delving in, we continued to unearth the different ingredients that made up the dish – from barley, lentils and sprouts, to cauliflower, mushrooms, green beans, and pickled cucumber. It was a light but filling salad, and would be a great vegetarian entrée on its own.

Bannock

Prairie grain salad

My favourite of our meal was their mac and cheese ($14). At first, I thought the inclusion of wilted spinach was a bit token in nature, meant to make indulgent diners feel a little less guilty, but it actually worked quite well to add texture and a bit of colour to the bubbly pasta dish. It ended up being one of the best mac and cheeses I’ve ever tasted, with a nicely melted crust and pasta bathed in a creamy, rich sauce. Somewhere, Mack was salivating.

Bannock

Mac and cheese

The duck poutine pizza ($16) was good in theory – a thin crust topped with roast duck, caramelized onions, fries, cheese curds and gravy. But I think it was all just a bit too much; the duck was overwhelmed by the poutine, and honestly, after the first few bites, Amanda and I struggled to finish the rest. It was also a dish that absolutely needed to be consumed hot – as the pizza cooled, it definitely lost its panache.

Bannock

Duck poutine pizza

As a whole, I thoroughly enjoyed our experience at Bannock. Perhaps it is too soon to declare it at the top of my O & B list, but I would make it a point to return upon our next Toronto visit.

Luma

Situated on the second floor of the Toronto International Film Festival Lightbox on King Street, Luma has one of the best people-watching vantages we’d come across. It also makes an excellent first impression, with its serene, uniform-level dining room, Edison bulbs, and neutral colour palette.

Luma

Interior

For that reason, I was hoping the food would match the surroundings. The table bread had us off to a great start; the artichoke-garlic spread was a punchy alternative to butter.

Luma

Bread with delicious artichoke-garlic spread

Amanda’s croque madam ($9) was an enviable dish, a perfectly runny egg atop a layer of béchamel and toast.

Luma

Croque madam

My meatball sub ($15, with salad substitution) with provolone and arugula was just okay. The meatballs weren’t as tender as I would have liked, and the bread had been over-toasted to the point where it was difficult to eat. The mixed greens on the side were tasty, however, with the alfalfa sprouts an unexpected but welcome touch.

Luma

Meatball sub

Service was low-key but friendly, and we felt well taken care of. Between that and the stellar location, I would return to Luma again, but would hope that the food would be more consistent next time.

Dark Horse

After lunch, Amanda and I headed towards Queen Street West, and happened to stumble upon the newest Dark Horse cafe in Toronto. It had only opened the day prior, and was so new the storefront was still without a sign above the door. It was an undoubtedly eye-catching space – I loved the red brick and pressed tin ceiling.

Dark Horse

Dark Horse

I had wanted to try an espresso-based drink from Dark Horse, but their espresso machine wasn’t working, so they were only offering filtered coffees and milk-based drinks. Amanda and I decided on a hot chocolate and London fog, respectively.

Dark Horse

London fog

The London fog was very smooth and balanced, and gave me confidence that their lattes would be equally tasty. Until next time, Dark Horse!

To T.O.: Summerlicious Adventures

Summerlicious, Toronto’s bi-annual prix fixe dining event and warm weather counterpoint to Winterlicious, puts Edmonton’s Fork Fest and Downtown Dining Week to shame. I realize it’s not exactly fair to compare our mid-size city’s efforts with those of Canada’s largest municipality, but the sheer number of restaurants (150 restaurants, all told), at every price point, in each quadrant of Toronto, that participate in the festival was mind-boggling.

My experience of Summerlicious made me consider planning my future travels around the event; it encouraged us to sample restaurants that I likely would not have otherwise – both in terms of high-end dining and in choosing lesser-known establishments.

In all, I sampled four Summerlicious menus (notably, Lee Lounge did not participate, cheekily naming their menu that week “Susurlicious”). We did have to make reservations in advance, though we did luck out with at least one known cancellation.

Jump

Jump was my entry point into the Oliver & Bonacini empire in Toronto. With the exception of Olive & Bonacini Cafe Grill, all of the O & B establishments are distinct in name and menu, and vary in level of formality and price, from the cafeteria-style O & B Canteen to the casual upscale Bannock to Canoe, their five-star crown jewel.

Nestled in the financial district, Jump was definitely a business lunch paradise – we were among only a few tables not in office attire. That said, we weren’t treated any differently, and after we arrived, were promptly led to a cozy wooden booth in the heart of the restaurant.

Jump

Jump

I loved the open concept kitchen, which seemed to give the restaurant a continuous sense of movement, with servers streaming in and out of the space with ease. The dining room also felt very warm, helped by the score of windows and skylights – it would be interesting to see how the atmosphere would change after nightfall.

Jump

Interior

The 3-course, $25 prix fixe menu provided quite a few options – our choice of four appetizers, four entrees and three desserts. My wild & tame mushroom soup, with no less than six kinds of mushrooms, had good depth and texture. And though they made do without butter or cream, a dollop would have gone a long way. Amanda’s watermelon and goat’s milk feta salad was gorgeous, summery and fresh.

Jump

Wild & tame mushroom soup

Jump

Watermelon and goat’s milk feta salad

We both couldn’t pass up the pulled pork for our main. It wasn’t the most elegant dish to eat, but then again, we weren’t on a business lunch! It was damn delicious, with flavourful mesquite barbecue sauce and pork that nearly melted in our mouths. The side of bagged kettle chips cheapened it a bit, however.

Jump

Pulled barbecue pork

It’s been a while since I’ve had panna cotta as smooth and silky as Jump’s. Their butterscotch version with salted caramel was just perfect, subtly sweet with a salty finish. Amanda also enjoyed her amaretto chocolate marquise cake – it was her favourite dessert that week, and even now, months later, is something she still thinks about.

Jump

Butterscotch panna cotta

Jump

Amaretto chocolate marquise cake

Jump was a great introduction to O & B. And it wouldn’t be long before we experienced them again.

Canoe

That same day, we had called Canoe (the most recommended Summerlicious restaurant on Chowhound) on a whim to see if we could get a last-minute reservation, as they were completely booked up on Open Table. Lucky for us, they had a cancellation, and we were able to snag a table early that evening. Sure, it meant we had to eat supper only two hours after completing our lunch, but Amanda and I were up for the challenge.

Located on the fifty-forth floor of the TD Tower, Canoe had an absolutely amazing view – we spent the first few minutes agog at the sights outside the window, including the CN Tower, Rogers Centre, Billy Bishop Airport and of course, Lake Ontario.

Canoe

The view

Service was professional and friendly, and matched the sleek but understated room. At first, we thought we’d be in the minority ordering off the $45 prix fixe menu, but seeing the same dishes coming out of the kitchen, we knew others were also taking advantage of the great deal. We had the choice of three appetizers, three entrees and three desserts.

My deconstructed salad featured Ontario bufala mozzarella, and it was a revelation: creamy, with so much inherent richness. It contrasted the fresh pops of peas and celery very well – I didn’t even mind the crab! Amanda wasn’t sure about the cold smoked whitefish and chilled potato puree, but she liked it in the end. It was also her first brush with edible flowers.

Canoe

Ontario bufala mozzarella salad

Canoe

Purdy’s smoked whitefish

Although I enjoyed my pan-roasted Great Lakes pickerel, the sides on my plate were the real star of the show – I loved the sweet corn and corn puree underneath. Amanda’s dish had mine beat, however – her slow-cooked Ontario pork loin was so tender, and even better, the Israeli couscous made us rethink that grain. Apparently, it had simply been cooked with mirepoix and stock, but tasted like so much more.

Canoe

Pan roasted Great Lakes pickerel

Canoe

Slow-cooked Ontario pork loin

Our dessert was a bittersweet chocolate terrine was made up of vanilla marshmallow, Barrie Hill Farms strawberries and basil crème anglaise. I wasn’t a huge fan of the divergent textures, from the spongy top to the sorbet-like layer underneath.

Canoe

Chocolate terrine

As a whole, Canoe provided us with a great evening out – the view alone was worth the price of dinner, but at just $45, it was without a doubt our best deal in Toronto that week.

Trevor Bar & Kitchen

Many of my friends have relocated to Toronto in the past few years – I met up with two of them at Trevor Bar & Kitchen to catch up over dinner. Janice’s coworker had recommended this restaurant, though at first glance, it wasn’t the ideal location on a muggy evening, with no air conditioning and too many lit candles to boot. On any other trip, the dinner at Trevor would have been near the top of my list, but because we dined at so many exceptional restaurants that week, it ended up in the middle.

My favourite thing about my mozzarella and tomato risotto were the bits of melty cheese inside. The rice had been cooked well, and I liked the tomato flavour throughout.

Trevor Bar & Kitchen

Mozzarella and tomato risotto

The second course, a barbecue duck ravioli was a good fusion offering – the sauce, a thin broth, was a welcome, if unexpected, surprise. Presentation-wise, it didn’t seem to have been plated with much care.

Trevor Bar & Kitchen

Barbeque duck ravioli

I ordered the sorbet for dessert primarily because I wanted something cool, but it turned to a soup almost immediately. It was still refreshing, though less pleasurable to eat.

Trevor Bar & Kitchen

Sorbet

Though I imagine Trevor Bar & Kitchen would be a great spot to grab a post-work cocktail and a casual nibble, with the breadth of restaurants Toronto has to offer, I doubt I’d return straightaway.

The Drake – “Summer School”

Chef Anthony Rose’s restaurant, located in The Drake Hotel, was my favourite restaurant experience of the entire trip. The Drake, a hipster boutique hotel in West Queen West, had created a lot of buzz about their pop-up restaurant series, which rotated concepts every few months. In many ways, because Rose is the in-house chef, I’m not sure it would really qualify as a pop-up, but I loved the idea that some of the decor would at least change with each incarnation.

Drake Hotel

Interior

In July, The Drake was transformed into a “Summer School”, complete with kitschy accessories that I was unabashedly giddy over. Everything from the duotang menus, scantrons and Rubik’s cube salt shakers on the table. Offering a menu of 3 courses for $35, a taste of their retro dishes also didn’t break the bank.

The Drake

Giddy

No matter what though, Mack and I agreed that we had to indulge in their too-cool “juice box cocktails”, which were actually served in tetra paks. Who knew drinking from a straw could be so much fun?

The Drake

Cheers!

Amanda and I both chose dishes off the prix fixe list, but Mack decided to select from the regular menu, and opted not to order either an appetizer or a dessert. Amanda thoroughly enjoyed her creamy salad, not hard to do when two of her favourite things – shrimp and avocado – were stars of the dish. I also loved my alphabet soup, thicker than I anticipated, but slightly sweet and rife with perfectly cooked pasta.

The Drake

Salad

The Drake

Alphabet soup

Amanda and I both ordered the fried chicken for our main – it was the best choice we could have made. The chicken had been de-boned, making it easy to eat (bonus!), but was still moist on the inside with a crispy shell on the outside. It was further enhanced with a dollop of wildflower honey on top. The side of cabbage slaw was light and refreshing, and although Amanda was full, nothing would stop her from finishing the rustic mashed potatoes on the plate, as buttery as they were.

Drake Hotel

Fried chicken

Mack’s entree was comprised of an absolutely massive lobster roll ($27), which contained one pound of lobster!  While the first few bites were good, Mack said it was much too heavy for one person. Besides that, the dish came with four sides. His favourite was the macaroni and cheese, with the pickled cucumbers and red onions a close second.

The Drake

Conquer that!

All through dinner, I was most looking forward to dessert. Passion Flakie (sold in the same section as Twinkies, I realize), was one of my favourite childhood treats, and I was excited to see how Chef Rose would elevate it. Unfortunately, it didn’t quite live up to expectations – Amanda’s was underbaked, and mine was overdone. I would have also preferred the whipped cream and fruit layers to have been more silky smooth.

The Drake

Passion Flakie

As a whole though, we had a great time that night. The setting, the service (our waiter seemed to genuinely love his job), and the food helped create something special.