Tag: Edmonton

Orange I Wasn’t Glad: 9th Street Bistro

May, Annie and I met for brunch at 9th Street Bistro (9910-109 Street) this afternoon, meaning that I have now tried all types of meals at this restaurant (I was there for dinner not too long ago). I am also sad to say that each subsequent experience has been less impressive than the last.

I had read a review of their “Champagne Brunch” in See Magazine quite a while ago, and was left with a desire to try it out at some point. With a wide bank of windows, creaky floors, and aged furniture, the dining area is bright and infused with character. Though none of us actually chose to partake in alcohol this early in the day, it was a nice option. May ordered a kiwi and cream cheese omelet (an interesting, if not previously unheard of flavor combination), while Annie and I stuck with the more traditional French Toast, albeit with a citrus twist.

I think my ultimate dissatisfaction with my dish was due to my own shoddy reading of the menu description. But between the orange zest on the toast itself, to the Grand Marnier-reduced syrup, I felt I was served a cure for scurvy.

Combined with tolerable service, I think I’ve sampled enough of 9th Street Bistro fare for the time being. Time to move on!

Restaurant interior

Kiwi and cream cheese omelet

Grand Marnier French Toast

A Tad Too Welcoming: Barb & Ernie’s Old Country Inn

Some of you may remember an obscure cooking program on Shaw Cable Channel 10 in the 90s featuring a German couple named Barb and Ernie. Well, I remember watching it, and though I can’t tell you anything specific about the show, I do recall much butter being used in the dishes produced. Anyway, I’ve passed by the Bavarian facade of Barb & Ernie’s Old Country Inn (9906-72 Avenue) too many times to count driving southbound on 99 Street, and I thought it was about time I went in and actually tried the food. Mack joined me Sunday afternoon in my quest to satisfy my morbid curiosity.

I had tried to make a reservation for brunch earlier in the week, but the gentleman on the phone told me they didn’t accept reservations for the morning. He advised that I try to come either before 10am or after 1pm to avoid the rush. As neither Mack or I are early birds, we decided on the latter suggestion, arriving just before one o’clock. We were pretty lucky, as we were seated almost immediately and with Ernie’s special brand of hospitality: he pointed to the table at which we would dine. After we were settled, he approached us to play out a cheesy but well-worn and likely popular bit, handing me the menu with a “For you, Beautiful,” while to Mack, he said, “…And you.”

It’s difficult to judge Ernie, as his intentions are pure, and there’s no doubt his restaurant is popular in part because he is so ingrained in the Old Country Inn experience, but as someone who appreciates a low key brunch of quiet conversation, this wasn’t the place to be.

The restaurant did have extensive breakfast offerings, however, including a page of “healthy choices.” I decided on a Barb & Ernie special of one hotcake, eggs, and sausage, while Mack chose the bacon and mushroom omelet. I actually should have asked for the menu back in retrospect, as I hadn’t finished reading the chronology of their business and family life in Edmonton detailed on the front page.

The food arrived after a limited delay, and suffice to say, the portions were huge! The meal itself wasn’t spectacular (even being less greasy than I expected), but as the prices are comparable to Denny’s, this is a better bet if you have the stomach for it (tried as I might, I could only finish half of the hotcake). On the downside though, this isn’t a place to linger for coffee refills, as Ernie was eyeing our table soon after our plates had been cleared.

Barb & Ernie’s isn’t for everyone, and actually, come to think of it, besides those who personally know the family, I wonder how most people aren’t intimidated by his over-the-top gregarious nature. While I realize a restaurant is more than one person, he’s undoubtedly the face. And because of this, it’s hard not to think of the Old Country Inn as just that – a stopover, a tourist attraction, and a living museum for Ernie’s hospitality.

Tabletop kitsch

Bacon and mushroom omelet with potatoes

Hotcake with scrambled eggs and sausage

Exceptional Service: Pradera Cafe and Lounge

As I had mentioned last week, Friday marked the start of Edmonton’s Downtown Dining Week. After mulling over the options, May and I decided on Pradera Cafe and Lounge, situated in the Westin Hotel (10135-100 Street). Although I’ve been to other hotel restaurants in the area, the Westin’s attention to detail and personable service blew me away.

Upon entering the hotel, I noticed the partitioned off groupings of tables and chairs to the left, and figured this was the restaurant. But after approaching the host, he brought me to a secluded dining room in the back. With neutral-toned walls and classic furniture, it wasn’t remarkable by any means, though the fireplace was a nice touch. Whomever designed the layout of the room really should have rethought the placement of columns however, as though their intention may have been to create private spaces, really ended up disrupting the flow and prevented an initial feeling of welcome.

Aesthetics aside, starting from remembering my dining companion’s name (May was taken aback that they called her by name when she asked about our reservation), to having our coats checked, chairs pulled out and napkins laid on our laps, it was a level of service that was nice albeit a bit disconcerting (“We can do it ourselves!”).

As per the Dining Week menu, we were each able to select three courses. We both chose the more uncommon cream of roasted pumpkin soup with a cinnamon cream swirl to start (as opposed to salad). For the main course, I opted for the pan-fried chicken breast accompanied with portobello mushroom herb cream sauce served with chefs’ seasonal vegetables and potatoes, while May went with the poached filet of atlantic salmon with a lemon scented hollandaise sauce accompanied with chefs’ vegetable medley and potatoes.

The pumpkin soup was delicious – smooth, with a nutty, squash-like flavor, it made a great fall/winter appetizer. Before moving on to the entree, we were given a small scoop of blood orange sorbet. I must say I’m not used to the idea of a palette cleanser, but this was definitely better than the tart coconut concoction I had at the Harvest Room a few years ago.

The main course was fabulous – the pan-fried chicken was the best I have had since an apple wood smoked chicken breast at Flavours on Whyte. The portobello mushroom sauce was delightfully creamy, and if they bottled it I’m sure could be marketed as the new HP sauce – good with everything.

On to the dessert – and because I couldn’t pass up the Belgian chocolate mousse in a raspberry shell accompanied with a raspberry sauce, May was left with the banana fritters complimented with vanilla ice cream and maple syrup. The mousse was light and airy, but a tad too rich for my taste, particularly with the overdose in solid chocolate already. I much preferred May’s dish of cinnamon and sugar-coated fried banana pieces, something I should learn to duplicate.

At the end of the night, we were both well-fed and tickled with the service. The host, waiter, and busboy all made us feel special. And though it isn’t something I want to get used to, on occasion, it’s nice to be pampered.

Restaurant interior

Cream of roasted pumpkin soup

Blood orange sorbet

Poached filet of atlantic salmon

Pan-fried chicken breast

Belgian chocolate mousse

Banana fritters

OpenTable.com

Before heading to Vancouver, as I mentioned in my previous post, I made sure to make a reservation at Feenie’s for brunch. The restaurant’s website had the option to connect to an external portal called Open Table. I had seen the name before, but hadn’t used the site before this instance. I figured it was worth a shot.

Signing up with for a free account was straightforward, as was subsequently searching up the availability of seats. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to secure my desired table for 5 for the time period (including two hours earlier and later) that I had in mind. Though my initial thought was to split up our dining crew, I figured as a last shot, I’d just call Feenie’s directly. And it worked – table for 5, 11am.

So why use Open Table at all? It turns out they offer a Dining Rewards Program – standard reservations garner 100 points, and the redemption chart for Canadian members is as follows:

  • Redeem 2,000 points and get a $26 OpenTable Dining Cheque
  • Redeem 5,000 points and get a $65 OpenTable Dining Cheque
  • Redeem 10,000 points and get a $130 OpenTable Dining Cheque

Not bad, I suppose, but even the first level of redemption requires 20 outings at participating restaurants. This would be difficult for the local diner, as there are only 16 places that currently utilize this service. It might be quite easy for those who dine out for business or travel often, but likely not so for casual diners. Moreover, the restaurants on the list are fairly high-end, so the Dining Cheque presumably wouldn’t be economical or worth the initial expense for this latter group.

Based on my Feenie’s experience, I’d be hesitant to use the service on the basis that receiving an e-mail confirmation isn’t as reassuring as speaking to a live person on the phone, as well as knowing that restaurant personnel can fudge seating where software can’t. I’d be willing to try Open Table for kicks, but I wouldn’t depend upon it for my reservation needs.

Comfortably Casual: Moxie’s Classic Grill

A few of my coworkers and I went to Moxie’s Classic Grill on Bourbon Street in West Edmonton Mall (1670, 8882-170 Street) for a bite to eat tonight.

My favorite of the non-Earls, upscale casual chains, I’ve always found Moxie’s inviting, with a good menu and reasonable service. Tonight was no different.

I ordered the Chicken Cannoli (spinach, ricotta cheese and chicken topped off with creamy sauces), which was a first for me, as I almost always choose the Penne Primavera (which typically takes care of a week’s worth of vegetables for me). Though the food arrived after a protracted delay, it was worth the wait – the melted cheeses and the sweet tomato sauce complemented the slightly dry chicken well. And with two pieces of crispy, buttery garlic bread, the meal was definitely satisfying.

My one nitpick of the evening was that they “Moxie-sized” my Bellini without confirming with me first, but I will give our server credit for waiting us out (leering at us only once during our lengthy post-dinner chat), as we did overstay our welcome somewhat.

All in all, it was a great night.

Chicken Cannoli

Theatre: “The Producers”

May and I attended the opening night showing of Broadway Across Canada’s The Producers:

“Based on Mr. Brooks’ Academy Award-winning 1968 film of the same name, The Producers , the new Mel Brooks musical is the story of down-on-his-luck theatrical producer Max Bialystock and Leo Bloom , a mousy accountant. Together they hatch the ultimate scam: raise more money than you need for a sure-fire Broadway flop and pocket the difference. Their “sure-fire” theatrical fiasco? . . . None other than the musical Springtime for Hitler.”

Like watching opera from The Met broadcast at a local theatre, I viewed this as an opportunity to experience a little New York in Edmonton. Unfortunately, the Jubilee was not exactly a Broadway venue. I was quite annoyed that for a show of this caliber (and expense!), the company couldn’t get past opening night adjustments. There really was no excuse for the ill-functioning sound system that fizzled out halfway through the first act, particularly when so much of the humor in this play arises from puns and sarcastic asides.

My mental comparison was the 1968 original film, which I happened upon late last summer on Turner Classic Movies. One of the best scenes in the movie – the drunken conversation between Bialystock and Bloom following the surprising success of Springtime – wasn’t duplicated. They did, however, recreate the dancing swastika visual (minus, sadly, the pink feather boas), with the clever use of a tilted wall of mirrors. Also, I have to give them credit for the absolutely hilarious “Little Old Ladies” number, chicken Adolf’s “Hail Hitler” moment, and Jason Simon’s breathless delivery of his jailhouse reprieve. I’m normally not a fan of musicals, but the songs as a whole (absent from the original) really enhanced the plot (so perhaps the problem has been the fact that I’ve been watching C-grade musicals all my life…).

At the end of the day, I don’t regret going, but I couldn’t help but think of the 8 Varscona pay-what-you-can shows I could have attended in place of one night at The Producers.

“Is it dark enough yet?”: Café Select

Before an 8pm curtain, May and I ducked into the downtown Café Select (10018-106 Street) for dinner. I went to the southside location for brunch on Mother’s Day last year, and wasn’t that impressed – while the restaurant had great ambiance, the wait for food was lengthy, and the portions were small. I was hoping dinner would change my impression of the eatery.

The dining room had the flavor of an upscale European bistro with gorgeous furniture (high-back leather chairs are a personal weakness of mine). However, the design of the space itself was slightly awkward, with an odd partition that ran down the middle of the room, and nooks and crannies that must have made it difficult for waiters operating on line-of-sight visibility to provide timely service.

The menu was impressively extensive (something I don’t smile upon in every instance, but with enough edible variety, I couldn’t complain). Though it was touch and go there for a while, in the end, nothing was standing between me and good old comfort food, which today manifested itself as a burger and fries (their version served with Coca Cola barbeque sauce).

It’s really a shame the cooks thought I had ordered a side of grease to go with my meal, because it would have been a great burger otherwise (the smoked apple cheddar was heavenly). The Coke sauce strangely tasted like anything but.

For some reason, the staff deemed it necessary to dim the lights twice! I felt like Steve in that episode of Sex and the City, where a candle was necessary to read the menu. In this case, I felt the reasoning behind dining ‘al darko’ could have been their desire to disguise the glistening on my plate.

Still, with the most polite (albeit softspoken) waiter I’ve come across in a while, and a Sangria that just about knocked me off of my feet (just ask May), I wouldn’t mind returning again to try the dishes I passed on this first time.

Theatre: “House of Cats”

After Murietta’s, May and I headed to the Varscona to check out the newest Teatro La Quindicina production, House of Cats:

“a hapless bylaw officer investigates a highly concentrated feline presence in a bungalow shared by two sisters and learns that in certain circumstances the lines separating what’s obsessive, what’s crazy, and what’s just plain fun can be deliciously blurred.”

A piece by Cathleen Rootsaert, I must admit my immediate bias against any Teatro premiere not penned by the venerable Stewart Lemoine. And while I do think it’s possible for a play to be both frivolous and entertaining (last summer’s Hey Countess! is a good example), House of Cats only exemplified the former. It was definitely a ‘madcap’ production, with emphasis on ‘mad.’

It was difficult to like the characters – while their actions throughout were reasonable, they were all so self-indulgent and contained within their individual existences that the entire script seemed like a pointless exercise. There were some good lines (e.g. after his explanation of blogging and WoW, the bylaw officer comments that, “Being anti-social isn’t what it used to be”), but most of the humor felt downright forced.

The bright spots included Jeff Haslam’s set – ornate, rich, and with more cat-nacks than I’ve ever seen in one space. Also, Leona Brausen’s nervous energy translated perfectly into the role of kooky sister Helene. She had by far the juiciest part, but she aptly demonstrated her comic timing and skill in exhibiting oddball tendencies.

Next up for Teatro: a new Lemoine in May!

Casual Elegance: Murrieta’s West Coast Grill

It’s no secret that I love brunch, so it’s probably a blessing in disguise that such meal selections are relegated to weekends only, as I’d likely be unable to resist eating out more often otherwise. And really, the food served at brunch isn’t that economical, as most of the dishes can be prepared for much less at home. Still, there’s nothing better than good conversation over a hot cup of coffee in a well-lit, buzzing dining room on a weekend morning.

When May and I decided to indulge in a late breakfast before a matinee on Whyte Ave, I jumped at her suggestion of Murrieta’s West Coast Grill (10612-82 Avenue). I had heard many positive reviews of this restaurant, and thought it was time I experienced it on my own accord.

The hostess led us into a bright dining area, lit by a wall of windows on the right side. With high ceilings, hardwood floor, and a beautiful upstanding wine cabinet, the room exuded a clean elegance. The tables were immaculate with crisp white linens, though I did find it curious that they chose a blue checkered cloth to accent the setting, as the pattern countered the rest of the chic decor.

Although we were given the option of ordering from the regular lunch menu, of course, we decided to choose a more conventional brunch dish instead. I went with the Cinnamon French Toast served with Berry Compote and Lemon Sorbet, while May opted for the Eggs Benedict with Salmon and Asaparagus.

The plating was beautiful – great color and overall presentation. We were both hoping for a bigger portion, but our selections were delicious – the lemon sorbet in particular was an interesting substitute for the whipped cream normally found atop French Toast.

Though the service throughout our meal wasn’t spectacular (our server didn’t split the bill as requested, and only refilled coffee when prompted to), we ended off with a nice surprise – a written Chinese New Year wish at the top of our receipt accompanied by a Red Pocket! Our server was of Asian descent, and though I’m sure we were targeted because we look Chinese, it was a gesture that obviously required some prior preparation. It was definitely a special touch that made our experience that much more memorable.

Murrieta’s – a noteworthy destination for brunch.

Dining room

Dining by the fire

Coffee Fixtures
Eggs Benedict with Salmon and Asparagus
French Toast with Berry Compote and Lemon Sorbet

New Works Festival 2007

After dinner, Dickson and I headed to the Second Playing Space in the Timms Centre for the New Works Festival, an event that features various student-created productions.

The first show we watched, Flap, tells the story of a young couple who unite over their quest to save a dying bird. Dickson sarcastically commented afterwards that he was “fascinated,” and I’d have to agree with that description for the most part. It was a linguistically-weak play, almost too colloquial, and phrases meant to be “cute” came off as tired (e.g. the “Good Grief”/Charlie Brown connection). Moreover, the pacing was uneven, and without proper transitions between the scenes (via dialogue or physical space), the blocking appeared rough and counterproductive. Most egregious, however, was the overly transparent theme. The ‘caged animal’ repetition was tiresome, and seemed in many respects like a writer’s exercise in moving from a literal wing flap to a verbal tussle to the female lead’s relationship-ending flight for freedom. In all, it was a decidedly amateur production.

The second show of the night was light years ahead by comparison. Employing a Greek chorus, cheeky musical interludes, and two charismatic leads, Skewed Logic presents the story of Stu, womanizer extraordinaire. Like The Game meets Euripides, this was a wonderful experiment in theatre. Beginning with Stu’s delineation of the “5 types of girls” (if you were wondering, they are: cute, hot, cool, attractive, and beautiful, with a “secret sixth untouchable” category), the show started off light, fun, and relatable to the mainly 20-something audience. From there, the plot escalated in intensity, and by the end, resulted in Stu’s tragic death at the hands of his best friend. Unexpected but thought provoking, it was an undoubtedly whirlwind play. I was thoroughly impressed by the director’s use of space, as she fully exploited the thrust stage and all potential entrance and exit points to her advantage. That said, there was one part of the play that Dickson enjoyed, but made me rather uncomfortable – Stu and his psycho ex-girlfriend’s simulated sex scene, complete with both actors in their underwear. While I can understand the need for the audience to appreciate the level of betrayal Stu was capable of, I still believe it was gratuitous and unnecessary. But despite that blemish, I was still floored by the complexity and creativity of Skewed Logic. The playwright, Vincent Forcier, has a bright future ahead of him!

With Festival passes going for just $5, it’s an inexpensive opportunity to support young artists and be entertained – I encourage you to check it out!