Category: travel

Day 3 in DC: Capitol Adventures

While we found most of DC to be accessible regardless of home country, the reality is that arranging tours of two of the most high-profile attractions are easier as a US citizen. We did our best to try “back channels” to obtain a White House tour, but without a Congressional or Senate representative to turn to, we were out of luck. The same was true for advanced tour tickets to the Capitol Building.

Capitol

As a result, directed by our fallback advice from the guidebooks that recommended waiting in line an hour and a half before the Visitor Centre’s 8:30am opening, we arrived at the nearly empty grounds of the Capitol at 7:30. Unlike the Washington Monument, however, not only did the Capitol website not provide any details as to when and where to line-up, it also did not have any visual placards or signs positioned at the centre to orient tourists. We approached one of the security officers, who directed us to the west entrance of the centre, but as not a single person was around, we doubted his instructions.

Site of our waiting game

At about 8, the east side of the centre (each end was equipped with their own security checkpoint) started to draw a crowd, but it turned out that those individuals had already been granted tickets for a specific timed tour. Reassuringly though, at around 8:15, schoolchildren started to arrive in herds, and dutifully joined the line behind us.

While we waited for the doors to open, we watched curiously as one of the security guards methodically combed the grasses by the stairs, every 10 minutes or so. The motive behind his actions was explained when he pulled out a water bottle and a pack of snacks, sneakily stashed there by one of the teachers supervising a group of youth (food and drink, including water bottles, are not allowed inside the building). The guard immediately directed the gentleman to dispose of the goods. One would almost think the greenery isn’t worth planting for the temptation it allows.

When the doors opened, we passed through the security check, and down a set of stairs into chaos. Blinded by the dozens of brightly colored t-shirts worn by school groups (to allow for easy identification and round-up), there was again a lack of signage to direct those without tours arranged in advance. We eventually found our way to a line on the west side of the building, and were told that any tickets uncalled for would be distributed on a first come, first served basis. It turned out I owed an apology to the external guard, and after another half hour of patience, we were awarded with tickets to the 9am tour.

Lady Liberty (the statue atop the dome)

The Capitol tour started with a 13 minute film titled “Out of Many, One”, which, although sounded cheesy and unnecessary at the outset, was a reasonably well-produced film that provided a good introduction to both Congress and the building itself.

Film completed, we were ushered by an enthusiastic, trivia-minded guide through select hallways of the Capitol. Apparently tours are shorter in the spring and summer due to the higher demand, but we didn’t notice. Highlights included: finding out that each state has two statues of prominent figures in the Capitol (and if we had a home state, we would have been craning our necks to find them too); the “whispering room” where words spoken were “magically” amplified (similar to the “waterfall” spot in the Alberta Legislature); and seeing the artwork underneath the great dome, and the surrounding pieces lining the room directly underneath. While it wasn’t as awe-inspiring as the Vatican, it was neat to be able to tour such a prominent landmark.

Room beneath the great dome

Great dome

The guide encouraged us to take advantage of the fact that both the House and the Senate were in session that day, and obtain passes to enter the galleries. This was one area where international visitors had an advantage over domestic visitors – all we had to do was request the passes directly from the respective desks located in the same building, while domestic visitors had to travel to their state representative’s office contained in a separate facility across the street.

Success!

We ended up at the House Gallery. Sadly, the number of tourists in the Gallery outnumbered the politicians on the floor – the credit card regulation bill was up for discussion, and only three members, staff, and guests were present. We stayed only long enough to watch the acting speaker likely put in his lunch order with numerous aides, then headed to look at the newly renovated Capitol exhibit. Because we had the benefit of a verbal tour, most of the displays were superfluous by that point, but for those unable to obtain tickets, would have provided good background on the history and politics of the building.

Before lunch, we quickly explored both the Library of Congress and Supreme Court buildings, located just across the street. The Library was unexpectedly stunning, with several notable exhibits, including a recreation of Thomas Jefferson’s personal library. Mack thought the Library’s “virtual passport” program was pretty innovative, allowing visitors to create an account and access files they have “downloaded” at home.

Inside the Library of Congress

Unfortunately, we had just missed a guided tour of the Supreme Court, meaning that we were not able to see inside the courtroom itself. That would have been the only area of interest, as the exhibit in the basement was unimpressive.

A model of the courtroom

For lunch, we consulted my food map and jointly decided that we wanted to venture off the tourist path to Jimmy T’s Place. The walk to the restaurant was nice, shaded and quiet, and punctuated with charming storefronts and houses.

So charming!

Our next stop was the Newseum, something Mack had been looking forward to for some time. Next to the museum, on cushy Pennsylvania Avenue, was the Canadian Embassy. It looked great on the outside, with grand stone columns, but inside, all we had access to was an underwhelming photo display and several maps detailing U.S.-Canadian trade.

Canadian Embassy in DC

We did notice a difference in patron make-up at the Newseum, primarily, we were sure, due to the $20 vs. free ticket price – a stark lack of children! The building was beautiful, which can be assessed from the outside – six levels with glass panels typically reserved only for office complexes. The natural light flooded the museum with optimism that matched the ideal of the endless possibilities of journalism.

Newseum

Front pages of newspapers from all over the world

There was simply too much to see – exhibits detailing the history of the newspaper, media coverage of 9/11 (including a display of one of the fallen satellite towers from one of the World Trade Centre buildings), the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall (including a section of the wall itself), and the hunt for Lincoln’s killer. The Newseum was definitely built with a new generation in mind – there were countless interactive displays and computer screens all over.

Section of the Berlin Wall

9/11 exhibit

Newseum balcony (Capitol in the background)

Mack particularly liked the photo exhibit capturing both amateur and professional shots of President Obama, in the campaign and in his first days in office, and I was drawn to the Pulitzer Prize exhibit, showcasing photos that have won the prestigious prize since its inception.

President Obama photo exhibit

Pulitzer Prize exhibit

We left the museum at closing time in dire need of rest. Like a marathon, we probably should have built up our walking stamina prior to the trip – between the early mornings and countless miles, we were exhausted. We recuperated at Starbucks (where I saw this amusing sign – why not have a “customer of the month”?).

Ready to tackle the last leg of the day, we took the Metro back to Foggy Bottom with the intention of visiting the supermarket to pick up goods for breakfast, but even better, had unintentionally timed our trip to coincide with the weekly FRESHFARM Market at Foggy Bottom!

I wrote about how great the “neighbourhood” farmers’ market is a few weeks ago, but I’m still entranced by the idea of a small, but varied number of vendors, gathering together on a weekly basis in a strategic, high-traffic location. In this particular instance, the market was in a small park just behind a Metro stop, next to a hospital, on the greater George Washington University Campus, and surrounded by walk-ups. How great would it be to be able to pick up needed groceries, on the way home from work, directly from producers without having to make a weekend trip to a market potentially far from home?

Browsing at the market

We marveled at the array of spring produce (remember, it was still snowing in Edmonton when we left), including strawberries and asparagus, and toured the other vendors that included a baker, bison and chicken farmers, and a Mexican food stand.

The best thing about FRESHFARM Markets (they operate several within the DC area), is that in each location, they support a non-profit agency in that neighbourhood – in Foggy Bottom’s case, it is Miriam’s Kitchen, an agency that provides homemade meals to homeless men and women.

We couldn’t resist picking up some strawberries (they were unbelievably ripe) and a lavender teacake to share for breakfast the next day.

Our market purchases

After dropping off our market goodies at the hotel, we headed by foot to our dinner reservation that night – Founding Farmers (with a name like that, how could we resist?).

We ended off the night continuing to push our pedestrian boundaries by walking over to the Watergate complex and The Kennedy Centre.

With all of the spin-off “Watergate” terms now ubiquitous to describe various scandals – political and pop culture alike, and all the infamy associated with the site of Nixon’s downfall – the seemingly everyday, concrete-toothed complex was remarkably unremarkable.

Watergate

The photo actually captures one of the apartment buildings – we only realized later that the break-in happened in the office building within the complex

Next door was the stunning Kennedy Centre. It was built to honour John F. Kennedy, and is, in fact, a “living memorial”. As he was a great supporter of the arts, the Kennedy Centre hosts free concerts every night, which are open to the public.

Plane over the Kennedy Centre

It is a building meant to be seen at night, the gold-tone columns illuminated, and the portico offering a romantic stroll along the serene Potomac.

Kennedy Centre

Mack and me

The interior was a sight to see as well (with some additional TV glee as well – the Kennedy Centre was the setting for part of an episode of The West Wing). Between the lush, regal red carpets, forever ceiling and crystal chandeliers, it is definitely a performance hall fit to pay tribute to a fallen President of the United States.

Kennedy Centre interior

We returned to our hotel, utterly spent. Thankfully, the following day allowed for a slightly later start – almost enough time for our feet to forgive us.

You can read Mack’s Day 3 recap here.

Piece-meal: Proof

When the trend of “small plates” began appearing in Edmonton, I was a little sceptical. Like many, I was used to the standard appetizer/entree/dessert meal (at least at restaurants serving Western fare), and I was resistant to any change deviating from that. After my experience at Proof, however, I can tell you that I have wholeheartedly embraced this new way of eating out.

My discovery of Proof came by way of DC Foodies, a website covering local restaurants, food events, and farmers’ markets, among other things. Proof was listed as one of the blog authors’ favourites, and as soon as I read that the restaurant had charcuterie on the menu, I slotted it into our plan, making a reservation using Open Table (a website subscribed to by most non-fast food DC eateries, it seemed).

When we arrived at 6:30, there were  only a few tables free of patrons. We learned very quickly that the dress code (though listed as “casual” on their Open Table profile), was elevated by the naturally dressy after work crowd, most of which were wearing suits and standard business wear.

The interior was elegant but understated – rich woods, metallic accent mirrors, dangling incandescent light bulbs, a beautiful glass wine case, and directly in my sight line, a charcuterie prep station. I wasn’t a fan of the woven chairs, though they did serve the purpose of ensuring the decor wasn’t too formal.

Interior

The name of the restaurant is derived from a quote attributed to Benjamin Franklin: “Wine is proof that God loves us.” So although the food was our initial draw, we were more than happy to sample Proof’s wine program, with 2, 4, and 8oz. pours of over 40 types of wine available, and a novel of selections by the bottle. Mack and I also agreed that we should keep better track of the wines we liked, in an effort to be more systematic about our vino exploration (of course, our favourites are noted in Mack’s moleskine and not mine…).

To put together our cheese and charcuterie platter, we asked our server for guidance, who was great at explaining the virtues of the various meats and cheeses. And while he and the rest of the service at Proof was assembly-line efficient (wines would instantaneously appear), the service was almost too formal for us to loosen up and enjoy ourselves – my only (admittedly minor) complaint about our experience.

We ended up with two meats – speck ($9), similar to a smoked prosciutto, and saucisson de paris ($8), a sausage – and three cheeses – la serena, a sheep’s milk cheese from spain, mt. tam from California, and cabot clothbound cheddar from Vermont ($13).

The bread course was a welcome change from the standard bread and butter rolls – baked pita-like strips were served with a mixture of sour cream, olive oil and chives. I can’t say I cared for the concoction, but I appreciated the fact that they wanted to do something different.

Bread service at Proof

Our starter was best described by Mack, who called it “adult cheese and crackers”. Heightened finger food or not, it was a lovely sight to behold – the cheeses were rustic in presentation, on a wooden platter served with fig and nut bread, honey, applesauce and dried figs, while the shaved meats were accompanied by toasted baguettes (and not an olive in sight!). We had a wonderful time experimenting with flavours – one of my favourite combinations was the subtly sweet fig bread with the creamy sheep’s cheese, salty prosciutto, and a dollop of honey for balance. Mack really enjoyed the cheddar, aged to the point where it had the texture and sharpness of parmesan. I think the best thing about the platter, however, was having to slow down and take time to eat it (during that time, we ran through about 3 2 oz. pours of wine each) – something that helped elevate our meal to an experience.

Cheese Platter

 

Charcuterie

The menu directly encouraged patrons to share small plates, and since we had grazed over the platter to start anyway, we figured we might as well carry the sentiment over into the rest of our dinner as well. We decided to split three dishes: crispy pork confit ($13), spicy little meatballs ($10),and sauteed potato gnocchi with ramps and asparagus ($14).

Though service had been brisk thus far, we both weren’t prepared at the speed at which the dishes appeared all at the same time– the chef must have been right on top of his kitchen staff. I was also happy to see that the plating was appealing without being over-the-top.

I expected more from the pork confit, though it arrived exactly as billed – a soy-glazed slice of pork, skin crisp above a layer of fat, its crunch mirrored somewhat in the bed of jicima salad underneath. The level of spice to enhance the sweetness was perfect, but we both agreed there was something missing.

Crispy Pork Confit

Mack loved the meatballs (cooked so the meat was still a touch pink), and paired with goat cheese agnolotti, the dish was a bit like a gourmet edition of pasta and meatballs.

Spicy Little Meatballs

The gnocchi was by far my favourite – not the gummy dumplings I’ve found in my dining past, the gnocchi virtually melted in my mouth. Though the vegetables were appreciated, I probably could have done without them in favour of more gnocchi.

Sauteed Gnocchi with Ramps and Asparagus

If I ever came back to DC, I’d make a beeline back to Proof.

Proof
775 G St NW
Washington, DC
(202) 737-7663

A Business Lunch Favourite: Teaism

Teaism is a DC chain known primarily for its tea, but also its economical yet tasty Japanese food. I can tell you it was the small expense that attracted me to it and made me note it down after seeing a brief write-up in Fodor’s. A sticker on the door noted its inclusion in Rachael Ray’s 40 Dollars a Day program on the Food Network, so I knew we had come to the right place.

Our visit was timed perfectly – we hit the restaurant just before the midday crowd arrived (the line inched out the door soon after we sat down), but were still privy to witness the bustling business they experience at lunch. The interior was warm – medium-tone wood counters wrapped around one side of the room, which displayed Asian-inspired art and calligraphy. The restaurant also benefited from a generous amount of natural light, much of it also being enjoyed by windowsill plants.

Iced Tea (Mack found it all right – refreshing, and not overly sweet)

The menu actually waivered more from their Japanese billing than I expected, offering some pan-Asian favourites such as Thai chicken curry, as well as some Western dishes, like sandwiches and burgers. Most entrees were $8-9, which we thought was fairly reasonable given its proximity to high traffic attractions (a guide called eat. shop. washington dc also mentioned their exceptional salty-sweet cookies – the site is worth taking a look for solid recommendations for DC and other major American cities). Orders were taken and picked up at the counter, which although worked out all right, caused some bottlenecking at the front of the restaurant.

My eyes were immediately drawn to the chicken udon soup ($8.50), primarily because of a recipe I read on the plane. The broth was a touch salty, but the consistency of the udon was perfect. I was also satisfied with the amount of chicken and vegetables included, which rounded out the meal nicely.

Chicken Udon Soup

Mack ordered a chicken bento box ($8.75), which contained fried chicken, rice, sweet potatoes and cucumber-ginger salad. He remarked that the meat was on the dry side, although the creamy potatoes made up for it somewhat.

Chicken Bento Box

While I’m not sure Teaism is unique enough to recommend to travellers (at least not this non-teahouse outpost we visited), it was a sleek restaurant that provided the needed reprieve from the sun and schoolchildren outside.

Teaism
400 8th Street (and other locations)
Washington, DC
(202) 638-6010

Day 2 in DC: Conquering the Mall

We followed up our early departure with our earliest start on our weeklong itinerary (if you haven’t figured it out by now, I’m a planner – perhaps too much so, but it’s hard to fight the tendencies). We managed on our second day to see all the Mall had to offer, and though the distance between some of the monuments and memorials were shorter than I was led to believe, the cumulative amount of walking we did that day was extreme – I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone.

Until I started researching the attractions, I had no idea that you could physically enter the Washington Monument and take an elevator ride to the top – I really thought it was just something to admire from the outside. Much like many of the other tours in DC, however, tickets had to be obtained to partake in the tour. My one failing in planning this trip was starting too late – by that time, all of the advanced tickets available for our time period had been snapped up, which left us with one option – queuing for day-of tickets.

Guidebooks stressed the need to begin lining up as early as 7am in peak season to ensure a ticket. While we didn’t make it for 7, we were pretty darn close, and reached the Monument ticket office at quarter after. Though Mack was unconvinced that there would be other “crazy tourists”, there were about a dozen people ahead of us in line.

At the Monument!

It was a decidedly cool morning, but in hindsight, a nice reprieve from the humid afternoons that were to come. As the ticket office wouldn’t open until 8:30am, Mack had time to search for a Starbucks, using his handy Blackberry Google Maps application, and with the breakfast he brought back, made our wait a little more leisurely.

Mack on the Berry (photo #1)

When tickets started to flow, we were fortunate enough to snag passes for the very first tour that day at 9am. We explored the base of the monument before the tour, and from that vantage point, glimpsed two other attractions we would see later – the Lincoln Memorial and the White House.

Mack at the Monument

Yes, it was pretty cool to the touch

We joined our second line up that day when we saw that a line to enter the monument had formed. The affable security guard kept us entertained while we watched the Park Rangers set up shop for the day. We were glad we had the foresight to head to the line early, as the school groups started arriving – in hoards. These groups – hundreds of school children together – would converse en masse at all of the tourist attractions we would visit over the next few days. It’s definitely a hazard of visiting during the end of the school year, and worth avoiding if you’re planning a trip to DC.

Just after 9, we were waved through the doors, a security check, and eventually, ushered into the elevator. The fast-talking, good humoured Park Ranger that led us up was a fantastic guide, and helped make the Washington Monument one of our most memorable moments during our trip. He explained a bit of the history, teased us about looking down, and prepared us for the view we were about to take in. Although the viewing level wasn’t open-air, it was a great way to get visually oriented to the layout of the Mall so early on in our trip.

White House

Tidal Basin and the Jefferson Memorial

World War II Memorial, Reflecting Pool, and the Lincoln Memorial

It got even better on the elevator ride back to ground level – partway down, the Ranger slowed the elevator down, shut off the lights, and through the windows pointed out the different stones embedded in the monument that had been contributed by states and countries (he was bitter that his home state of California only had one stone included, versus New York’s three).

Next up was the World War II Memorial. While it was visually appealing, it was the least striking of the war memorials to me. I found out later that it was built around the already-existing fountain, which made me appreciate it more for the DC mentality of confluence.

World War II Memorial

Detail underneath the Pacific column

Past the Reflecting Pool, was the Lincoln Memorial, my absolute favourite.

Reflecting Pool with Lincoln Memorial in the background

The Lincoln Memorial is definitely meant to be seen in person – photos can’t capture the absolute scale and magnificence of the statue, his solemn and wise gaze staring out into the distance. I love the idea of Lincoln forever watching over Washington (as well as some of the most significant events in US history – with protests at his doorstep), and the union he helped create. I have to admit I didn’t know much about Lincoln until after this trip, where we came across several exhibits dedicated to his life.

Mack at the Lincoln Memorial

Lincoln Memorial!

The spot where Martin Luther King Jr. made his “I have a dream” speech.

The Korean War Veterans Memorial was one I had read about somewhat – with the number of statues and their reflections in the cool stone wall adding up to 38 – the parallel that divides North and South Korea. I didn’t think statues of life-size men could make a strong impression, but I was wrong – their distinct eyes and troubled expressions were hauntingly memorable. We learned later that the Korean Ambassador to the U.S. lays a fresh wreath to commemorate the war every Monday – without pomp and ceremony, but with constant remembrance.

Korean War Veterans Memorial

Our last stop before lunch was the Vietnam War Memorial. Even though I had seen photos, I didn’t realize until I saw it in person that it was cut into the ground. The names of the fallen, which overwhelm the viewer in relentless numbers as you walk past the panels, made every bit the impact I expected. The Parks Department added a name to the memorial this year, making the total 58,261.

Vietnam War Memorial (objects left at the base are collected daily and kept by the National Parks Service)

Cut into the ground (to signify the scar it left on the country)

We wandered away from the Mall and towards the cluster of office buildings, in the hopes of finding a dine-in restaurant favoured by those who worked in the area. While we were consulting our map, a lady asked us if we needed help, and when we expressed the need for a place to eat (not wanting to resort to a food court), she actually thanked us for not eating in food courts! I realized we were near Teaism, a local chain that specialized in tea and Japanese food, and headed there for some subsistence.

Satisfied with our meal, we headed back in the direction of the Mall and decided to check out the Old Post Office. We had been told the view from the tower was spectacular, and that it was a good alternative to the Washington Monument. We waited in line for about 15 minutes, and eventually made our way to the top.

 

Inside the Old Post Office

One view from the Old Post Office (J. Edgar Hoover FBI Building and Capitol)

Unlike the Washington Monument, the viewing deck was refreshingly open air, although steel cables barred the windows. But both Mack and I agreed that the experience wasn’t as noteworthy – or breathtaking – as the one we shared that morning.

Our first of many museum visits followed. The American Museum of National History (one of 19 Smithsonian Museums) was first up. All Smithsonian Museums (like all of the national attractions we were visiting) were free of charge, which meant the bulk of our expenses on the trip was food – a stark difference from our New York getaway two years ago.

In hindsight, we shouldn’t have made such an effort to tour every corner of the museum, as our tolerance for exhibits lowered as the week went on, but it was amazing to see the breadth of the collection. Highlights for me included Carrie Bradshaw’s laptop and C3P0 (both in the lobby of all places), the flag that inspired the “Star Spangled Banner”, and exhibit that explored Lincoln’s life and death. Mack really liked the photography exhibit of President Obama’s inauguration.

“I couldn’t help but wonder…”

Mack and C3P0

 

Not the flag that inspired Francis Scott Keyes, but it’s pretty darn neat

The teacup that Lincoln used before he was shot (I was fascinated with the mundane objects that become historical upon the unthinkable happening)

Mack would make a grouchy Lincoln

We had a bit of time to kill before our dinner reservation that night, so spent it resting up and doing some Mall watching (jogging has to be the official sport of DC). Once our feet had forgiven us, we hopped on the Metro, and walked a little around Chinatown before heading to Proof.

Chinatown Gate (it was a little decrepit, actually)

For whatever reason, all of the signs in Chinatown were bilingual…does DC have a Chinese population large enough to warrant such measures?

You can read Mack’s day 2 recap here.

DC Dive: Five Guys

I took it as a positive sign when I overheard our pilot and a airport worker discussing their craving for a burger from Five Guys. A Fodor’s recommendation, I singled out the DC area chain primarily because they were open until 11pm – and without guarantee that our flight would be punctual, I figured it was best to seek out late night options within walking distance of our hotel.

I had to laugh at the sign posted on the door, which although deals with a serious subject, seemed a little over the top.

Perhaps they should have had a radioactive icon below the text?

Five Guys would best be described as a dive, but the best kind of dive. Inside, we found a mixed crowd of young, old, and well-suited, and felt right at home with their well-worn wooden floors, dimly lit booths, and walk-up order counter, where kudos to the cashier – she had the “single/double, regular/cajun” questions down to a mechanized pat. I also loved the white board on the wall that let customers know where the day’s potatoes came from (Rexburg, Idaho, in our case).

Order counter

Free peanuts!

Like Harveys, burgers could be customized with any number of free toppings, including lettuce, pickles, grilled onions, grilled mushrooms, green peppers, and a variety of condiments. Our order, a bacon cheeseburger ($4.59), cheeseburger ($3.89) and cajun fries ($2.59) was nothing fancy, but hit the spot. I loved the pillowy bun, and the fries were crisp with just the right amount of kick.

Cheeseburger

Mack with a well-balanced meal

It was a great first meal in DC, but it would only get better from there.

Five Guys
1335 Wisconsin Avenue NW
Washington, DC
(202) 337-0400
Sunday-Thursday 11am-11pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-4pm

Day 1 in DC: Greenery and Georgetown

Day 1 in DC began with an early wakeup call– 5am to be exact. Early flights are my nemesis, but I suppose red eye flights (of which I have never had the pleasure of experiencing), would be worse.

Much needed wake-up coffee (speaking of which, I didn’t know there is now a Starbucks just a stone’s throw after security)

With no direct flights to Washington, we had a brief layover in Toronto, then were on our way to DC. The terminus at Washington Dulles Airport was a bit strange, as the boarding gates were not located in the same facility as the luggage belts and connection to ground transportation. We had to take a shuttle vehicle that carried us between buildings – it seemed like a terribly inefficient system, and though a metro line is in the works, it made us wonder why the terminal was designed that way to begin with.

We eventually made out way to the taxi stand, and driving into the city, what shocked us most was how green it was. Lining the beltways were trees in full bloom, while wildflowers and long grasses were monopolizing roadside spaces. I suppose it shouldn’t have been a surprise, but as it was snowing back in Edmonton that day, the full force of spring was difficult to imagine until we were able to immerse ourselves in it.

Our taxi ride into Foggy Bottom cost us a pretty penny ($60!), but had the benefit of a convenient and stress-free commute to our hotel. We had chosen the George Washington University Inn partly on price, and though it wasn’t the most economical accommodation we found, its proximity to a Metro stop was too attractive to overlook.

George Washington University Inn

We found it to be situated on a quaint street, just a few minutes away from the infamous Watergate complex (which, in addition to being a tourist attraction, also housed a Safeway), as well as the John F. Kennedy Centre for the Performing Arts. The colourful walkups that lined the street helped establish a feeling of home in the area.

Our neighbours for the week

Upon checking in, we found that we had been upgraded to a suite. This entitled us to a room with more space than we knew how to deal with – a large sitting room with a television and desk, kitchenette with stovetop, sink and fridge, and a separate bedroom and bathroom. Our only complaints about the room was the poorly designed bathroom that was significantly lacking in counter space, and hard-lined internet.

Bedroom

After a quick nap, we took advantage of our still-nimble feet (this would change in a hurry) and walked to adjacent Georgetown for dinner. Not connected by Metro, there was shuttle bus service available from two different stops, but at about 15 minutes away, we couldn’t justify waiting for a bus.

Georgetown was a happening place, even on a Monday evening – likely a mix of tourists, locals, and college students gearing up for graduation that week. We didn’t do much deliberate shopping, as we were fairly hungry at this point, but I did take note of shops such as Paper Source that I wanted to return to on a different evening.

Mack in Georgetown

Over the course of our wanderings, we stopped at IceBerry. I had read on a Chowhound thread that the frozen yogurt craze that hit LA and New York a few years back had finally reached DC. I couldn’t resist a cool treat that would hopefully tide us to something more substantial, as I wasn’t sure exactly how far our dining destination was located. Open until 11pm, it seemed to be a nice alternative to a coffee shop or an ice cream parlour, and based on the number of people inside, many agreed.

We ordered just one treat to share – a small strawberry (plain and chocolate were the other options) topped with blackberries. It totalled over $4, and at 95 cents a topping, each blackberry cost us over 20 cents.

Strawberry Frozen Yogurt from IceBerry

Though it was good to try, I have to say I prefer the pureed “real” fruit yogurt offered by Yogen Fruz– nothing ever replaces the textured crunch from strawberry seeds. That said, I wouldn’t mind such a yogurt parlour trend picking up in Edmonton – more late night options are a good thing.

Just as it was getting dark, we reached our desired location – Five Guys.

You can read Mack’s recap of day 1 here.

The “Diner Sprint”: Dairy Lane Cafe

As I continue to bemoan the lack of Diners, Drive Ins and Dives-worthy diners in Edmonton, I do my best to try and strike another diner off my list every time I am in Calgary.

Of all places, I discovered Dairy Lane Cafe within the pages of Where Calgary.  After checking out the website, I convinced Mack that it should take the coveted “Sunday morning brunch” slot of our weekend eating adventure.

Dairy Lane exterior

Though we intended on getting to Dairy Lane earlier, by the time we checked out from the hotel and arrived in the West Hillhurst community, it was already 11am. It wasn’t looking good, as there were already a number of people hovered around the door outside. To make the wait more bearable, however, Dairy Lane (like Diner Deluxe) offers hot coffee to patient patrons.

A sign told us to head on in to report the size of our party, and when we did, we were greeted by a friendly server who gently broke it to us that the wait was around forty-five minutes. Having been used to such demand, we had our information taken, including our phone number. He promised to call when a table was ready (long distance, mind you!) and said that we would have five minutes to claim it. We assured him that we wouldn’t wander far.

Hillhurst is a neighbourhood adjacent to Kensington, so we figured a leisurely stroll to work up our appetite was in order. We planned a twenty-minute walk each way, and after peering in the windows of Janice Beaton Fine Cheese (it wouldn’t open until noon that day, unfortunately), we turned around to head back.

At 11:30, we were still a number of blocks from our destination when Mack’s cell phone rang – our table was ready! In what will now be called the “diner sprint”, we ran just about the rest of the distance back to ensure our table wouldn’t be lost. Thankfully, we made it, so our unexpected exercise wasn’t in vain.

The interior of the cafe was tiny – only 22 seats, but so charming. Cheerful yellow walls reflected the optimistic spring conditions outside, and black and white prints reminded patrons of the diner’s 1950s roots. Dairy Lane is proudly powered by 100% carbon-free energy, and 5% of their sales are donated to the Highbanks Society, an organization committed to assisting young single parent families. Talk about a diner with a conscience.

Interior

I couldn’t resist the Swiss and Bacon Stuffed French Toast ($10.95), while Mack chose the All-In Three Egg Omelette ($12.95), with veggies, bacon, ham, Spolumbo’s sausage and cheese. Of course, we topped our order off with coffee, which was consistently being refilled to a standard that Mack approved of.

Though we imagined the kitchen to be fairly small (sized-appropriate to the dining room), we didn’t have to wait long for our plates. A supersized container of maple syrup was provided to me, which Mack was more excited about than I was. The swiss had been sprinkled with a heavy hand, and combined with the slightly salty back bacon, the light and eggy French toast, and a touch of syrupy-sweetness, I was in brunch heaven. If I don’t make it back to Calgary some time soon, I may have to learn to duplicate their recipe at home.

Savoury Stuffed French Toast with home-cut hashbrowns

Mack liked his omelette just fine, though he said it wasn’t the best he’d ever had (Galaxie Diner still tops his list). He did say that it was thicker than he expected, and the kitchen definitely didn’t scrimp on the ingredients.

All-In Omelette with home-cut hashbrowns and toast

Dairy Lane is a great diner with great intentions. I’ll be back.

Dairy Lane Cafe
319 19 Street NW
(403) 283-2497
Monday-Friday 7am-3pm, Weekends and Holidays 8am-3pm

Dissonant Service: Rush

I didn’t know much about Rush when I chose it to be our Dine-out Calgary dinner choice, except that it was fairly upscale, as someone on Chowhound commented that they were surprised that the restaurant was in the $35 and not $85 tasting bracket. We also found out, after we made our reservation that Rush offers complimentary valet parking after 6pm. As we had chosen a centrally-located hotel, we wouldn’t be utilizing the service, but I’m sure it would help tempt many a diner especially on cold winter nights.

We walked over to Rush, and were right on time for our 7pm reservation. We were immediately greeted by a friendly hostess and a coat check attendant, were seamlessly freed from our jackets and led to a table in the dining room. The hostess asked if I would like to hang my purse, and when I said yes, pulled out a gold-plated purse hook and hung it off a side of the table – a non-essential, but thoughtful touch by the restaurant.

It looked exactly as it did in the photos I had seen on the restaurant’s website, but on closer inspection, was a little less stunning. The visually interesting floor-to-ceiling dividers were a unique addition, but spray-painted gold, seemed tacky. The pastel green chairs (instead of a more monochromatic shade of white or black) also cheapened the décor somewhat. The large wine room, however, chic with clear glass and alluring lighting, was the interior’s bright spot. We also decided that the music that was initially played belonged not in a restaurant of this calibre, but in a department store. Thankfully, towards the end of our meal, the tunes shifted more to the smooth jazz variety (Dave Brubek’s “Take 5” for one).

We were soon greeted by one of our two servers for the evening. He brought the wine and cocktail lists, and asked us if we would like sparkling or still water. In the past in such restaurants, I have found that “still water” translates into “bottled water”, so I responded that we would like tap water. Upon hearing my answer, he launched into a retort that was neither helpful or entirely clear, and mentioned briefly that the water was a “good deal” because it was tap water run through a special process. He was condescending (something that would continue throughout our meal), and missed an opportunity to educate us about how Rush goes above and beyond other establishments. I learned later from the website that the restaurant is the first in Canada to use the Nordaq FRESH water system: “FRESH is ultra pure water where tastes such as soil, clay, chalk and chlorine have been removed using a patented system. According to leading chefs and sommeliers, FRESH enhances the experience of food and wine. As FRESH is bottled on location and is not transported it is also a more environmentally responsible choice.” Needless to say, our lovely introduction to the restaurant was marred by his unexpected rudeness.

The server came back with a clear wine bottle filled with water, and just when I was about to question the fact that we still hadn’t been given food menus, a busperson appeared before us with a tiny plate containing three amuse bouches. The first was beef tataki with garlic puree, the second a beet puree, and the third a savoury shortbread. Of the three, we liked the crispy, warm and cheesy shortbread – what can I say? We’re easy to please.

 

Amuse Bouches

As soon as we’d finished our plates, they were whisked away and food menus were presented to us. It occurred to me then that the restaurant wanted us to be able to fully focus on the amuse bouche and the tone of the meal before being introduced to text distractions. The $35, three-course Dine-Out menu was contained within, and once we realized that entrees ranged from $35 and up, we knew we were getting a really good deal.

We put in our orders with a female server, who assisted us for most of the night. Unlike her counterpart, She was friendly, gracious and demonstrated a sense of humor. When she incorrectly positioned Mack’s entrée, she joked, “Please don’t tell the Chef, or I’ll be beaten again.” I had to wonder why there was such a dissonance between servers.

We both ordered the roast garlic soup (with ham hock and parsley coulis) to start, but deviated our choices for the rest of the meal. I decided on the sous vide filet of Chinook salmon and chocolate tasting for dessert, while Mack opted for the loin of Broek Farms’ Berkshire pork and ice cream trio.

Bread service included three options, only one of which I can remember (multigrain). Our female server did a really good job in painstakingly introducing each dish to us (and all their garnishes), but a detriment to my food blogging tendency is to never write anything down during the meal. I prefer to focus on the experience in the moment, but I know my memory isn’t what it should be, so I apologize for the lost details. The bread was all right, though Mack would have preferred to have eaten the slices warm.

 

Bread service

The garlic soup was good – flavourful, but not too overpowering. The foam layer on top also lightened what could have been a heavy cream concoction.

 

Roast Garlic Soup

The star of the meal was undoubtedly our entrees. I was excited to try the sous vide salmon, and it was exactly what I expected – the fish had adopted a melt-in-your-mouth texture that I doubt could have been achieved any other way. Underneath sat flecks of double-smoked bacon – heaven in every crisp, they almost overshadowed the salmon. My only nitpick about the dish were some of the slightly undercooked potatoes.

 

Filet of Chinook Salmon

Mack really liked his pork, which had also been prepared sous vide. The thick slice of meat (nearly double the size of my salmon) retained its moisture, and contained a healthy amount of what Mack dubbed fat to be “slurped up”. He enjoyed the lentil pairing as well.

 

Berkshire Pork Loin

Dessert included smoked chocolate mousse and chicory and milk chocolate ice cream for me, neither of which were exceptional. Mack’s trio of ice cream yielded one absolute winner though – the raspberry sorbet.

 

Chocolate Tasting

 

Ice Cream Trio

The male server returned to present us with a tiny plate of complimentary sweets to end our meal. Unlike his counterpart, however, he did not stop to describe any of them, and turned to leave as soon as the plate hit the table. Out of the three, the macaron was my favourite.

 

Meal-ending treats

He returned to deliver the bill, and a bag of ribbon-wrapped granola, “for the morning”. It was a considerate gesture, particularly for a party that ordered from the cheaper menu.

 

Granola “for the morning”

All told, Rush provided us with a mostly positive experience – it is evident that the owners and the chef have designed the restaurant with the patron in mind, and have incorporated thoughtful touches and details that elevate Rush above other fine dining establishments. At the same time, had we seen more of the unfortunate server, I may not have been left with the same impression – I hope something is done to correct the inconsistencies in patron relations.

Rush
100, 207 9 Avenue SW
(403) 271-7874
Monday-Friday 11:30am for lunch and 5pm for dinner, Saturday 5pm, closed Sundays

To Be a Kid Again: Calgary Zoo

I don’t know why I became fixated on visiting the Calgary Zoo, but it ended up being one of my top non-restaurant priorities for our weekend trip. The fact that I had a 50% off admission coupon probably helped matters too, and reduced the $16 gate price to $8 a person (meaning, of course, that we could spend more on food with a little less guilt).

Calgary Zoo

The last time I was at the Zoo was on a high school biology trip, but I don’t remember many details from it, besides taking umpteen photos on the bridge leading to Prehistoric Park. I was looking forward to the touristy aspect of visiting the Zoo, and to see if animals could hold my attention in the same way as when I was younger.

Turned out, not quite, but it was still a nice way to spend three hours. We did a ton of walking (particularly in the Canadian Wilds area), and visiting the Zoo in the winter time meant that crowds were definitely lighter. Of course, some of the exhibits (notably, the lions) were closed for the season, but I was fine with the tradeoff of a less busy beaten path.

Mountain Goat

Mack loved taking pictures of the carnage remaining in some of the cages, while I focused on the happier animals. My favourites were the giraffes, elephants, baby gorilla and cotton-top tamarins. The koalas, the Zoo’s current feature exhibit, was a bit of a disappointment, though we did learn some interesting facts about the marsupials (their pouches are actually upside-down, and babies eat their mother’s poop, called “pap”).

Giraffes

Hungry elephant

Baby gorilla

Cotton-top Tamarin

Not a baby kangaroo, but a kid

As a child, I loved Prehistoric Park. Having been to Drumheller and the Royal Tyrell Museum numerous times in the past, I’m not sure why brightly-colored fake dinosaurs amongst “hoodoos” would have appealed to me at all, but the outdoor aspect is hard to beat.

On the rickety bridge

Mack, of course, had to take a photo with the Edmontonsaurus

We were pretty tired by the time we had made the rounds, and were glad that we would be heading to the hotel next to rest up before our scheduled dinner at Rush. All in all, it was a good afternoon – I’d recommend a stop if you’re looking to revisit your childhood fascination with the animal kingdom.

Mack’s photo set is here.

Pancake Diner: Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus

Our first stop on Saturday afternoon upon arriving in Calgary was the Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus. I can’t remember when I first heard of the Haus, but I know it has been on my to-try list for a while now. I love the idea of what is essentially a Dutch “pancake diner” – with over 80 savoury and sweet options on the menu, the Haus cloaks their all-day breakfast menu under the guise of a culinary tradition.

 In a strip mall (I had to wonder if the Haus affected the name of a nearby Remax outlet which was called “Real Estate House”)

We nearly missed the turn into the strip mall housing the pancake institution, but thankfully, I spied the sign before it was too late. We joined a nearly packed house for lunch, though from the looks of it many patrons were there for their first meal of the day. There were quite a number of families with small children in the restaurant as well, and given that the food was relatively safe, I could imagine children would enjoy a visit to the Haus.

The last flap on the menu distinguished the Haus’s pancakes with those typically encountered in Canadian restaurants, and the owner trained with an authentic pannenkoek restaurant in the Netherlands in order to learn the special technique used. The Haus claims to be the onlly establishment of its kind in Canada.

The décor probably hasn’t changed much since the restaurant opened, but despite being dated, the interior felt cozy and comfortable. The bar/cash area also featured a raised shelf displaying various Dutch food items and souvenirs that could be purchased – I was tempted by the syrup-filled waffles, but figured there would be enough calories consumed that weekend to avoid non-essential confections.

Shelf of tempting goods

We perused the menu, and although there were a few non-pancake entrees listed, we knew we had to try the namesake items. Mack immediately went for the bacon, mushroom and cheese version ($10.95), while I decided on the shredded potato, onion and cheese option ($9.95).

We were floored by the plates that arrived. 12 inches of what looked to be a thin, cheese-topped pancake were placed in front of each of us. Cutting into it, we discovered that the bottom of the pancake remained soft and fluffy, while the top was crispy – it provided a nice contrast in texture. The fact that I had crunchy bits of shredded potato and crunchy onions only helped matters. Mack enjoyed his bacon, mushroom and cheese version, though it was a bit on the salty side.

Shredded Potato, Onion and Cheese Pannenkoek

Bacon, Mushroom and Cheese Pannenkoek

My only complaint through our meal was that our water glasses weren’t refilled until prompted, even though we saw the coffee thermos sail by our table on more than one occasion.

Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus was a nice way to start our weekend of eats – a casual, economically-priced restaurant serving up comfort food.

Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus
2439 – 54 Avenue SW
(403) 243-7757
Wednesday – Friday 10am-8pm, Saturday 8am-8pm, Sunday 8am-3pm, closed Mondays and Tuesdays