Eat, Drink and Be Early: Toronto Highlights

I’m still amazed at how much we managed to pack in during our short trip to Toronto back in May. It helps, of course, that on one of the days, we were already up and at ‘em by 7 a.m. Vacation? What vacation?

Aunties and Uncles

Mack and I only had one occasion to take in brunch during the trip, and we probably picked the absolute worst day to do so: Mother’s Day. Getting a reservation was near impossible, so after some research, we chose the walk-in only Aunties and Uncles (voted best brunch by Blog T.O. last year).

By the time we arrived, the line was forty-five minutes strong. It is a small restaurant, but in the summer, the patio seating easily doubles the number of tables.

Aunties and Uncles

The Mothers’s Day line

We were fortunate to get an al fresco seat, shaded by a large umbrella. In the early afternoon warmth, it was outdoor dining that wasn’t yet possible in Edmonton at the time.

Aunties and Uncles

Mack on the patio!

The food was well worth the wait. My omelette was chock full of rapini, tomatoes and smoked gouda, and the hash was nicely charred. The sweet and springy sesame-crusted challah was no doubt the start of the plate, however. Mack equally enjoyed his breakfast burger, with a homemade beef patty topped with brie, bacon and (his favourite), a fried egg. It was served on the same challah.

Aunties and Uncles

Omelette

Aunties and Uncles

Breakfast burger

Service was better during the first half of our meal – our coffee refills dropped off after that. Even still, I’d recommend Aunties and Uncles for brunch in Toronto– those lines don’t lie!

Steamwhistle Brewery

Besides Alley Kat’s Charlie Flint, the only other beer consistently in our fridge is Steamwhistle. Made in Toronto, we didn’t have the time last year to visit the brewery, so we made sure to include it on our itinerary on this trip.

Steamwhistle

The Roundhouse

Located in a former locomotive roundhouse, the area surrounding the facility is beautiful, a swath of green in amongst high rises and skyscrapers. There was even a small playground behind the building, situated just beneath one of the country’s busiest roadways. We eventually learned that the City at one point had wanted to demolish the historic building to make way for a convention centre parkade. But Council had the foresight to prevent this, and compromised– the parkade was constructed underground, and the building reconstructed brick by brick over top.

Steamwhistle

Freeway/playground

We managed to get tickets for the day’s final tour. At $10 a pop, the ticket included not one, but two beers, plus a souvenir glass or bottle opener. While waiting for the tour, we explored the event space, which is used often for concerts, weddings, and food truck events. I loved its raw, industrial edge, and while I haven’t been inside the Mercer Tavern yet, I am hoping it has a similar vibe.

Steamwhistle

In the tasting room

I enjoyed hearing about the history of the brewery, including its origins. Steamwhistle was started by three fired guys from the Upper Canada Brewery after it was purchased by Molson (etched on the bottom of each bottle is “3FG”as a reminder of its beginnings).

Steamwhistle

Free sample

Steamwhistle brews all of its beers in this building, with a volume of approximately 81,000 bottles per day (interestingly enough, our tour guide wasn’t able to compare this with the volume produced by a multi-national company).

Steamwhistle

Bottling area

We also learned that they had an actual working steamwhistle, which two lucky tour-goers got to pull. The beer’s namesake relates to the steamwhistle sound they wanted to echo through the streets of downtown Toronto to trumpet quittin’ time.

Steamwhistle

Whee!

It’s always interesting to see how a product gets on the shelves, and it gives us a bit more appreciation for our fridge staple.

Centre Island

Mack and Amanda will tell you that it was a not-so-pleasant wakeup call the day we intended to check out the Toronto Islands. Because Mack had to be back downtown for his early afternoon conference start time, we knew our window of opportunity was short, and hence, planned to catch the first ferry out. Our walk from our hotel to the ferry stop was a frantic one, dodging commuters on busy streets and narrow sidewalks. But, our tale ends well and we reached the dock in time to catch our ferry.

Centre Island

On the ferry

The Toronto Islands, with its limited real estate, vehicle ban, and need for ferry access makes it a bit of an idyllic, if isolated, community. Though we didn’t make it to the residential side of the islands, the number of bike-toting individuals that poured off the first ferry was astonishing. Here we were, in Canada’s largest city, with a sort-of hippie commune within arm’s reach!

Centre Island

Loved this sign!

The blessing of that first ferry was that we were among a very small group. As a result, once on the other side, it felt like we had the island to ourselves.

Centre Island

Mack also particularly enjoyed the city’s skyline as viewed from the Toronto Islands

The downside of visiting in May instead of June through September, however, is that many of the attractions, including the amusement park, were closed. Still, wandering the serene and lush, dew-sprinkled grounds were an attraction enough.

Centre Island

Centre Island

We did wander over to the beach on the other side, but still early, the mist and fog wouldn’t have made it an ideal time to spend on the sand or in the water.

We were also amazed at the amount of “wildlife” present all around Centre Island, from aggressive sparrows to fearless ducks, graceful swans and innumerable geese. And let’s not forget Amanda’s favourite – snakes!

Centre Island

Geese

Centre Island

Amanda’s pet

Even the inanimate animals were fun, the highlight found in Franklin’s Garden.

Centre Island

Mack confronts Franklin

Centre Island

Amanda found a better pet

Toting a picnic basket and swim gear, visiting Centre Island could easily take up an entire day – children in tow or not. The few hours we spent were good enough for us though, especially since our wait for the return ferry saw at least a hundred people pile off – and we weren’t in an island sharing mood.

Guu

Guu came to us recommended by a random Toronto blog I came across. Edmonton is bereft of izakayas, and friends of mine who have lived in Japan constantly bemoan this fact. And while I don’t eat sushi, cooked Japanese tapas are right up my alley, so I was curious to see what a Japanese pub was all about.

That said, I wasn’t expecting the raucous welcome that we received. Anytime a guest entered, all staff turned to the door with a loud greeting of welcome. Similarly, anytime a guest was leaving the establishment, hollers of goodbye and thank you travelled with them. It took us a while to get used to the noise, but there is no doubt it creates a very spirited, joyful atmosphere. Mack commented that it really drew attention to how many parties come and go in a given night.

Guu

Mack and Amanda at Guu

The interior was made up of low wooden tables and stools, warmed by Edison bulbs and a bustling open kitchen (flames were seen on more than one occasion).

Guu

Interior

The sharing menu is perfect for large groups, and was great for first timers like us, as it gave us the chance to sample numerous dishes. Our server recommended seven dishes for a three top. The standouts included the sweet and spicy fried calamari and pan-fried pork cheek.

Guu

Sweet and spicy fried calamari

Guu

Pan-fried pork cheek

I expected the okonomiyaki to be crispier and less wobbly, and the agedashi tofu to have had a firmer exterior, though the dashi broth was great.

Guu

Okonomiyaki

Guu

Agedashi tofu

Service was brisk, but matched the pace of the restaurant. I could definitely see myself returning on future visits, though it is the sort of place I would love to see in Edmonton. With the runaway success of Three Boars, other true small plates-focused eateries should be in the works. I think Edmonton is ready.

A Whirlwind Sampling: Toronto Food Trucks

Back in May, Mack and I headed to Toronto – I was the tagalong as Mack was attending a conference. It was great because I could hang out with Amanda during the day, and the three of us would hook up for dinner each night. I can say that I really am starting to appreciate their food scene, and look forward to even more visits!

While Edmonton’s policies surrounding food trucks could be much improved, I’m sure Toronto’s trucks would consider themselves lucky if they were governed in the same way. At present, groups like Food Truck Eats are trying to lobby the City to allow new trucks to vend curbside downtown, but brick and mortar restaurants are stifling change. As a result, we found that most trucks were restricted to private land and parking lots – to the point where it can actually be an income-generator for these owners. Or, most trucks seem to simply vend outside of Toronto in more hospitable towns like Hamilton.

Parking lot seeks truck

Parking lot seeks trucks

Though we were in Toronto for less than a week, we were able to hit up five trucks. It definitely helped that there was a small gathering of trucks our very first day in town!

Amanda alerted us to an event at the University of Toronto that was taking place that Saturday afternoon. After checking into the Hyatt, Amanda met us at the hotel and we walked over to the campus, eagerly anticipating our first taste of Toronto food trucks.

Food Truck Eats

Food trucks!

There were three trucks set up alongside a science expo for children. To our surprise, though several hours of service had already passed, most of their menu items were still available (I will say that the generators seemed noticeably loud, though as Mack commented, the fact that they were placed against stone buildings, which did the opposite of dissipating the noise, didn’t help matters).

Toasted Tangerine

Loved the wild colours of Toasted Tangerine

Amanda and Mack

Amanda and Mack

The toasted ravioli ($7) from the Toasted Tangerine was an all-around hit. Crispy pockets of ravioli were served with a marinara dipping sauce. Great finger food, and for next time, if they made them one-bite ravioli, I think it would be even more appealing. Their pulled chicken sliders with habanero pineapple slaw ($8) were tasty, but Drift’s similar jerk chicken is bolder in flavour.

Toasted Tangerine

Toasted ravioli

Toasted Tangerine

Pulled chicken sliders

From El Gastronomo Vagabundo, we tried their crispy pork schnitzel ($8.50). Street consumption-friendly, it had been cut into thin strips that were easy to eat and share. With a nice breading, it also benefited from the wide of crunchy lime slaw. We also loved their potato wedges ($6.50), elevated with sweet chili oil, sour cream and green onions.

El Gastronomo Vagobundo

Pork schnitzel

Dessert was from the Cupcake Diner. Unlike the other two trucks, the cupcakes were obviously baked off-site, so this was probably more of a catering vehicle than anything else. Still, Mack and I both couldn’t pass up trying the cookie dough flavour ($2.75 each), which was not only topped with a cookie sliver, but also had dough baked right into the cake!

Cupcake Diner

Happy with our cupcakes

Our next two truck encounters were over the lunch hour in downtown Toronto. I’d been keeping my eye on Twitter, ready to pounce and plan our days around their service. We lucked out with Buster’s Sea Cove, a brand new truck that had opened a few weeks prior. A St. Lawrence Market favourite, they are known for their tasty seafood entrees. And though they were brand new, their popularity was obvious – when Amanda and I arrived, there was a small but ravenous crowd already gathered!

Buster's Sea Cove

Buster’s Sea Cove

Parked in a private lot without immediate seating options, it didn’t seem like the ideal location for food trucks. But with its proximity to several towers, it seemed like most in line were content with taking their lunch back for desktop consumption. Amanda and I ended up hoofing it over a few blocks to the picturesque St. James Park.

The menu was small (just three items), but they all sounded so good it made selecting just one difficult! The grilled swordfish sandwich ($13) I ended up with was delicious – flaky, with fresh tomatoes and red onions served on herby, aromatic focaccia. I probably could have done without the token pre-boxed side salad though, as it didn’t really add anything.

Buster's Sea Cove

Grilled swordfish sandwich

Amanda’s shrimp tacos ($8) were also pretty tasty. Breaded and fried shrimp had been drizzled with pico de gallo and salsa verde.

Buster's Sea Cove

Shrimp tacos

The next day, Amanda and I had lunch nearby, this time from Caplansky’s Deli, though their truck is fondly known as “Thunderin’ Thelma”. Caplansky’s is another well-established restaurant, a deli located in the trendy Kensington neighbourhood. But they famously wanted to expand their business to include a mobile component, and presented their case to the Dragon’s Den investors, only to be rejected. The owners went ahead anyway, and Thelma is now regarded as one of the successes that made it even without the requested financial support.

Caplansky's Deli

Thunderin’ Thelma

Similarly located in a private lot (they apparently pay $300 a month to park there), we encountered a situation opposite from Buster’s –there was absolutely no line. Visibility from the street was definitely an issue (being tucked next to a building), and possibly competition as well – McDonald’s was just across the street.

Caplansky's Deli

The best in town

Regardless, we had heard far and wide about their Montreal smoked meat sandwiches ($7), and couldn’t wait to try them ourselves. We took our boxed lunch over to a park bench next to the Metropolitan Church and dug in.

Caplansky's Deli

Sandwiches

The sandwiches were unreal. The meat was juicy, slightly honeyed, and the rye held up to the moisture – no soggy mess here!

Caplansky's Deli

Mmmmm

The reuben spring rolls ($5) were overpowered by a bit too much hot mustard, but they were crispy enough. And for dessert: the maple bacon doughnuts were warm, and balanced sweet and savoury flavours well, even if we didn’t discern too much bacon flavour.

Caplansky's Deli

Maple bacon doughnuts and reuben spring rolls

I was happy to have been able to try a slice of Toronto’s food truck scene. I do hope it continues to grow, in spite of the lack of policy changes. Until next time!

Toronto Redux: Restaurants Galore!

I’ve been a delinquent blogger, always posting about things very late in the game. But hopefully some time this summer, I’ll finally catch up! That’s the hope, anyway, at this halfway point in the year…

This post refers to my March 2012 Toronto trek, which I also wrote about here and here. I’ll be back again to recap my May 2012 trip in future posts.

I’m amazed Amanda and I were able to fit in so many restaurants in those six days, in between attending a conference. But a girl’s gotta eat, right?

The Stockyards

The Stockyards was without a doubt the most disappointing experience we had, which was a shame because it was some of the best food we ate that week.

Located near the Saint Claire West station (a great example of transit-oriented development, with a grocery store right above the subway and drugstores, restaurants and other amenities within three blocks), we read about The Stockyards in Where, and a quick search online yielded an irresistible brunch menu.

The restaurant is tiny – 18 bar-style seats. When we arrived, there was already a number of people waiting for seats in the de facto lobby. While we were more than ready to wait, we weren’t prepared to be ignored by the two servers. One walked past us twice without acknowledging us, and the other proceeded to answer the phone and have a prolonged personal conversation when we approached her at the counter. After we were seated at the bar with a view of the kitchen, we were asked to move to seats on the opposite wall to make room for a larger party. The server offered us a complimentary biscuit to make up for the move, which was nice, but the service didn’t really improve from there. Coffee refills were scarce, and though Amanda had ordered the same dish as the patron next to me, he was afforded a dish of wet naps while she was not. Maybe The Stockyards is a place where only the vocal and aggressive are served well, but if that’s the case, it’s an even stronger reason for us never to return.

The Stockyards

Interior

As I mentioned, the food really was great. What can I say about the fried chicken and waffles ($13)? I thought The Drake was the epitome of fried chicken, but I was wrong – the skin was incredibly crispy, but even better, the meat beneath it was so juicy and moist it actually made it messy to eat. We also loved the play of sweetness and heat from the chili maple molasses citrus glaze.

The Stockyards

Fried chicken and waffles

The biscuits with sausage gravy ($11) was a monster of a dish. The biscuits, flaky and warm, were perfection, and the eggs were a creamy dream.

The Stockyards

Biscuits with sausage gravy

A shame, because Amanda and I will never return to The Stockyards.

Bannock

At some point it became a mission for Amanda and me to visit all of Olivier & Bonacini’s restaurants. We already covered Jump and Canoe last year, so this time around, Bannock and Luma were on our hit list.

Located in the Hudson’s Bay downtown, Bannock connects to this historic Canadian company by purporting a philosophy of “Canadian comfort food”. It’s also the only restaurants I’ve ever dined in to feature a fishbowl window that looks directly into the store, but without the dingy cafeteria vibe. The interior of Bannock could be described as an urban cabin, with “aged” wood beams lending a rustic but polished look. Paper placemat menus completed the playful theme.

Bannock

“Wine” display at Bannock

We were seated on the banquet wall, which was spaced so narrowly that at times, it felt like a communal table. We happily chatted with the neighbours (openly gawking at their orders, and vice versa), though it did make getting in and out of the bench seating a bit of a challenge.

I couldn’t help but order their signature HBC cocktail (vodka, peach schnapps, cranberry juice and peach puree). It tasted, not surprisingly, like juice, though I have to say I expected a bit more colour homage in the drink, with layers, or at least the use of some throwback spirits.

Amanda and I split three dishes that night. The first, a Prairie grain salad ($9), was the starter equivalent of a kitchen sink, but in a good way! Delving in, we continued to unearth the different ingredients that made up the dish – from barley, lentils and sprouts, to cauliflower, mushrooms, green beans, and pickled cucumber. It was a light but filling salad, and would be a great vegetarian entrée on its own.

Bannock

Prairie grain salad

My favourite of our meal was their mac and cheese ($14). At first, I thought the inclusion of wilted spinach was a bit token in nature, meant to make indulgent diners feel a little less guilty, but it actually worked quite well to add texture and a bit of colour to the bubbly pasta dish. It ended up being one of the best mac and cheeses I’ve ever tasted, with a nicely melted crust and pasta bathed in a creamy, rich sauce. Somewhere, Mack was salivating.

Bannock

Mac and cheese

The duck poutine pizza ($16) was good in theory – a thin crust topped with roast duck, caramelized onions, fries, cheese curds and gravy. But I think it was all just a bit too much; the duck was overwhelmed by the poutine, and honestly, after the first few bites, Amanda and I struggled to finish the rest. It was also a dish that absolutely needed to be consumed hot – as the pizza cooled, it definitely lost its panache.

Bannock

Duck poutine pizza

As a whole, I thoroughly enjoyed our experience at Bannock. Perhaps it is too soon to declare it at the top of my O & B list, but I would make it a point to return upon our next Toronto visit.

Luma

Situated on the second floor of the Toronto International Film Festival Lightbox on King Street, Luma has one of the best people-watching vantages we’d come across. It also makes an excellent first impression, with its serene, uniform-level dining room, Edison bulbs, and neutral colour palette.

Luma

Interior

For that reason, I was hoping the food would match the surroundings. The table bread had us off to a great start; the artichoke-garlic spread was a punchy alternative to butter.

Luma

Bread with delicious artichoke-garlic spread

Amanda’s croque madam ($9) was an enviable dish, a perfectly runny egg atop a layer of béchamel and toast.

Luma

Croque madam

My meatball sub ($15, with salad substitution) with provolone and arugula was just okay. The meatballs weren’t as tender as I would have liked, and the bread had been over-toasted to the point where it was difficult to eat. The mixed greens on the side were tasty, however, with the alfalfa sprouts an unexpected but welcome touch.

Luma

Meatball sub

Service was low-key but friendly, and we felt well taken care of. Between that and the stellar location, I would return to Luma again, but would hope that the food would be more consistent next time.

Dark Horse

After lunch, Amanda and I headed towards Queen Street West, and happened to stumble upon the newest Dark Horse cafe in Toronto. It had only opened the day prior, and was so new the storefront was still without a sign above the door. It was an undoubtedly eye-catching space – I loved the red brick and pressed tin ceiling.

Dark Horse

Dark Horse

I had wanted to try an espresso-based drink from Dark Horse, but their espresso machine wasn’t working, so they were only offering filtered coffees and milk-based drinks. Amanda and I decided on a hot chocolate and London fog, respectively.

Dark Horse

London fog

The London fog was very smooth and balanced, and gave me confidence that their lattes would be equally tasty. Until next time, Dark Horse!

Toronto Redux: Unique Eats

Having grown up in Edmonton, and having endured years of reading and hearing about how Canada’s largest city is the centre of the universe, I realize I should despise Toronto. But after my sister moved there, and now having spent some time with her there, it’s hard not to admire and respect Toronto, especially for their vibrant and dynamic food scene only possible in a large municipality.

In March, Amanda and I were able to take in and explore some unique food events and places – things I’ve definitely never seen in Edmonton.

Come and Get It

Pop-up restaurants, mostly in the form of kitchen takeovers and guest chefs, have been all the rage over the past six months in Edmonton. But what we’ve never seen is a truly temporary establishment, as Toronto’s Come and Get It exemplifies.

Come and Get It

Come and Get It

Set up on the ground floor of a soon-to-be-demolished building on Spadina, entrepreneurs took advantage of the low rent afforded by an indefinite lease and installed a restaurant inside the vacant storefront. Although a condo building is slated for construction soon, no firm dates have been established, so until then, Come and Get It will be in operation.

Come and Get It

Interior

The space is clean, if raw, but befits the concept perfectly (including the . Accents are provided by splashes of colour on the walls and kitschy, retro décor, including a neon Mac monitor, Nike shoes, and plastic Barbie lunchboxes. Our favourite item had to be the N64 (on which I pwned Amanda in a brief post-dinner showdown).

Come and Get It

Archie comics!

Come and Get It has an ingenious menu that doesn’t overwhelm a small, makeshift kitchen. The same base combination of ingredients can be requested in either a salad, sandwich or poutine form, easily multiplying the total number of dishes offered by the restaurant. Amanda and I were disappointed to find out that they were already sold out of the Granny Smith’s chicken caesar stream of creations, so she ended up ordering a Hawaiian pork belly sandwich while I chose the chipotle beef shortrib ($8 each). We decided to share a Hawaiian pork belly poutine ($7).

Even though the food seemed like it was ideal for take-out, the majority of customers were of the eat-in variety, as we were. The wait for food wasn’t long and arrived in paper boxes. Amanda’s first impression of her sandwich was that it was quite oily, but she liked the hoisin-glazed pork and the springy bread. The short rib in my sandwich was very fatty, to the point where I couldn’t really taste the accompaniments, which included chipotle aioli, ancho chili barbeque sauce, crispy onions and sweet and sour coleslaw.

Come and Get It

Hawaiian pork belly sandwich

Come and Get It

Chipotle beef short rib

The poutine was enjoyable – the fries were crispy and topped with a slightly sweet beef gravy and crispy cracklins. We would have preferred that the pork belly had been chopped up so we could easily pick up bits of pork with fries and cheese curds, but that was a minor quibble.

Come and Get It

Pork belly poutine

The menu at Come and Get It will change often – but since it is a limited engagement, I’m sure that’s enough incentive for folks to return often. It was a neat to finally be able to visit a true pop-up establishment!

Toronto Underground Market

When my sister found out when I would be in Toronto, she jumped at the opportunity to take me to one of the city’s trendiest food events. The Toronto Underground Market is fashioned after similar events that have happened in other large cities including New York. They allow upstart small businesses and passionate home chefs to share their specialities with the public. Tickets sold out almost immediately, but Amanda was able to score a pair from someone on Facebook who didn’t need the number of tickets she bought.

We took the subway to Broadview in order to catch a shuttle bus to Evergreen Brickworks, where the Underground Market would take place. Like our experience with the Fail FunBus last year to reach the Night Market, it seems to me that Toronto always underestimates the number of people who choose public transportation – again, the small bus could not accommodate everyone who was in line (those who choose public transportation shouldn’t be punished, even if inadvertently so). Thankfully, we were near the front of the line, but felt bad for those left behind.

Toronto Underground Market

Evergreen Brickworks

Evergreen Brickworks is a not-for-profit space built on the bones of a former brickyard. Although parts of the buildings have been renovated to house a cafe, shop and teaching centre, the majority of the space is beautifully raw and industrial. Between the brick and high ceilings, it was a blank canvas that would be suitable for many different kinds of functions.

Toronto Underground Market

Shop

Toronto Underground Market

Covered ice rink!

That said, the Underground Market was set up in a covered, but not enclosed, part of the building. As a result, the frigid air seeped into the space, and even though the thermometer read –4, it felt closer to –20, especially after nightfall. But crowds were far from deterred – the space was packed, and proved to me that Torontonians are a hardy bunch! They wouldn’t let a cold night dampen their hunger.

Toronto Underground Market

Inside Evergreen Brickworks

Toronto Underground Market

Heat lamps helped, but only if you stood right beside them

Toronto Underground Market

Some vendors also had great fun in spite of the cold – these vendors would randomly cheer every few minutes, perhaps to keep themselves warm

It seemed to us that most vendors used the event as a platform to connect with foodies searching for the “next big thing”, and perhaps a launching pad towards a brick and mortar storefront. One obvious example was the taqueria that was physically separated from all of the other vendors out of necessity – their line was at least a hundred people deep half an hour into the event.

Toronto Underground Market

The line for La Carnita

Amanda and I weren’t very strategic in our choices, and in most cases, just chose vendors with the shortest lines. Some of our spontaneity paid off, while others did not. One vendor that did work out was Babi & Co. Their congee ($3) could have done with more of their delicious sweet soy reduction, but the egg and pork belly also added some needed texture to the soupy rice base. Their pork satays ($5) were freshly off the coals, but even better, the meat was tender and flavourful. The pickled cucumbers were a nice touch as well.

Toronto Underground Market

Congee

Toronto Underground Market

Pork satays

The Popover Girl had a neat concept – essentially a sandwich made using a popover in place of bread. But it probably wasn’t ideal for such a chilly night because the popovers really should have been enjoyed warm. My savoury popover was the better of the two, with hot chilli on the inside, but Amanda’s, filled with a Nutella mixture, ended up more like a very dry ice cream sandwich.

Toronto Underground Market

Savoury chilli popover

Toronto Underground Market

Amanda’s happy she scored a chocolate popover!

Our plunge into the crazy lines was at Comida del Pueblo. Amanda really wanted the jalapeno cornbread sandwich ($5), but even she didn’t think any food item would be worth a forty-five minute wait. Still, we couldn’t leave the line once we committed, so we shivered along until we reached the front. By that point, many vendors had already run out of food, so the crowds as a whole had started to thin.

No surprise, the sandwich didn’t live up to the mammoth expectations. The bread had a good crumb, but the cheese wasn’t melted. I also ordered an Ontario water buffalo empanada ($4) for good measure. It was steaming hot and was filled with a good amount of meat. The pastry was also enjoyably flaky.

Toronto Underground Market

Jalapeno cornbread sandwich

Toronto Underground Market

Water buffalo empanada

As a whole, it was a great experience, and neat to see so many people embracing small-scale vendors.  I wondered if something like this would work in Edmonton, but in many ways, our farmers’ markets serve as the incubators in our city.

Longos

Longos is the largest independent grocery store chain in Toronto, but I didn’t get a chance to visit their store until this trip. Our hotel location meant we were about ten minutes away from the Longos located in the basement of Maple Leaf Square, so we were able to pick up some ready-to-eat items for a quick breakfast.

I didn’t do an extensive inventory of the store’s items, but they did carry treats by local favourite Dufflet in their freezer case.

Longos

Dufflet products

I was also impressed by how inexpensive some fresh bakery items were, that would be considered “specialty” items in Edmonton, and aren’t readily available at mainstream grocery stores.

Longos

Chapatti

Longos

Korean wheat pops (they tasted like lighter rice cakes)

My last post about Toronto will be about all of the restaurants we had a chance to try, including a few more Oliver & Bonacini outlets that we couldn’t stay away from!

Calgary Steak-Out: South St. Burger, Kensington Riverside Inn, Knifewear and Telus Spark

Besides exposing us to some of Calgary’s best restaurants, our YYCSteak Tour also inevitably allowed us to explore some of the other things our southerly neighbour has to offer.

South St. Burger

On our way down to Calgary, we decided to stop at Crossiron Mills for lunch. I had spotted South St. Burger the last time we were there, and this seemed like an opportune time to finally give it a try.

South St. Burger

South St.

We were initially lured by their use of fresh Spring Creek Ranch beef, though the ability to customize each of our burgers wasn’t overlooked as well (something that seems to be all the rage at present, with chains like Five Guys and Rodeo Burger picking up steam in Edmonton).

The system was very similar to what you would encounter at Harveys – customers order and pay first, then are shuffled through a line to have your burger designed. South St. offers almost thirty different toppings, including several different mayos, relishes, and even a mango chutney.

South St. Burger

Toppings

I ended up just choosing their burger combo ($9.29( while Mack upgraded to the cheeseburger combo ($10.29). Although we liked the size of the patty (much thicker than Five Guys), if they hadn’t made the claim of using fresh patties, we wouldn’t have known otherwise – they appeared to us to have been cooked from frozen. On the side, I have to say I enjoyed the onion rings, even if Mack didn’t.

South St. Burger

Our meal

South St. Burger

Burger

As a whole, South St. wasn’t disappointing, but it also wouldn’t be worth a detour either.

Kensington Riverside Inn

Tourism Calgary arranged for us to stay in the Kensington Riverside Inn, a marked departure from our usual high-rise digs in the core. It was a nice change though, as the charming room featured a semi-private patio area, turndown service, and a coffee tray in the morning.

Kensington Riverside Inn

Kensington Riverside Inn

There were also certain advantages to residing in the Kensington neighbourhood. One was its proximity to one of Calgary’s most bustling cafes, Higher Ground (coincidentally, it turned out one of our fellow YYCSteak companions, Dan Clapson, was the coffee shop’s manager).

Higher Ground

Breakfast at Higher Ground

The other was how close we were to the Bow River and its waterside trails. Although the blustery conditions didn’t make it an ideal day for a stroll, we still took some time to explore what the area had to offer.

We took some interest in a pedestrian bridge that was still under construction at that point, called the Peace Bridge. Due to cost overruns and its somewhat avant-garde designs (one local told us that to them, it resembled one of those “Chinese finger traps”). The bridge opened on March 24, 2012 – I can’t wait to cross it the next time we’re in Calgary!

Peace Bridge

Peace Bridge

On our way back to the hotel, we also stumbled across this incredible bird house tree (dubbed the “Urban Bird Timeshare”) in the Sunnyside neighbourhood. What a unique and lovingly-crafted landmark!

Whimsical Tree

Urban Bird Timeshare

Knifewear

We had intentions to do some window shopping in Inglewood, but it turned out most of the boutiques and culinary shops were closed on Mondays. Thankfully, Knifewear, the store that we really wanted to check out, was open!

Knifewear

Knifewear

Specializing in Japanese knives, we had only heard great things about Knifewear. Mack and I have been meaning to get a “real” knife for some time, but knew we wanted to wait until we could get down to Calgary.

The salesperson that assisted us was knowledgeable, and asked us some probing questions so that she could better recommend us a knife that would suit our needs. The best part of the shopping experience was actually getting to try them out! There were tomatoes and potatoes available on cutting boards so customers could get a firsthand feel of what the knife was like to hold and chop with.

Knifewear

Trial station

We ended up with an American-style factory-made knife – I had wanted some familiarity with what we currently use. And after using it for a number of weeks, I can say I am more than happy with the purchase – and I know where I’ll be heading when we need to further upgrade our collection!

Knifewear

Our knife!

Telus Spark

Tourism Calgary also wanted to provide us with an opportunity to check out one of their newest attractions – the brand new Telus Spark, their rebuilt space and science centre. Located in the same area as the Calgary Zoo, there’s no doubt this will be a high-traffic area for visitors to the city.

Telus Spark

Telus Spark

Although the HD digital dome theatre is forthcoming, we were still able to get a good sense of the facility from the permanent galleries that were complete. Without a doubt, the biggest impression it left on us was just how hands on it was.

Telus Spark

Erosion at work

There were a countless number of opportunities for patrons to “play”, including the Being Human, Earth & Sky and Energy and Innovation galleries. One example in the latter space that Mack and I particularly enjoyed was a wall where we could learn how much energy common household appliances would use when left plugged in and idle (for example, a coffee maker uses 305 watts per year).

Telus Spark

How can you prevent brownouts?

The galleries also featured areas where patrons could leave their mark by commenting on an exhibit or answering a posted question. It was neat to see the collected responses – some very heartfelt and personal.

Telus Spark

The wishing tree in the creative kids museum (for children aged eight and under)

The busiest gallery by far during our visit was the Open Studio. It was definitely made with the twenty-first century child in mind, with most of the activities being driven by digital technology. Many of the young patrons we saw were engrossed in animating their own scene – with options to do this digitally, with figurines and on paper.

Telus Spark

Painting with sound!

As a building overall, Telus Spark also has some great function space. Theatres aside, the 10,000 square feet atrium is wonderfully open, with high ceilings and built-in projection, sound and lighting systems. We could see it being used for Pecha Kucha nights in Calgary.

Telus Spark

Atrium

Telus Spark has also introduced some great events to try and engage unconventional audiences. Their once a month adult-only nights turns the facility into an evening destination, with a DJ, bar, and time and space for adults to get in touch with their childlike curiosity. It’d be neat to see something like this in Edmonton (though I’m not sure the expansion of the Telus World of Science will get us quite there).

In all, it was neat to see what’s possible with a brand new science centre. Check it out the next time you’re in Calgary!

Toronto Redux: Tourist Trappings

I don’t get to travel for work often, so I felt very fortunate that I was able to attend a conference in Toronto in early March, and even better, stay on a few days longer so I could visit with my sister. Though it seems like just yesterday when I was out east (in reality, it was back in July), it was a great opportunity to be able to see the city in a low-tourist season. I’ll do my best to recap the trip in a timelier manner than I have in the past!

Depending on your interests, the number of tourist-driven sites and activities to visit could take up the bulk of any visitor’s itinerary. And though Amanda and I made a valiant effort to clear off some of those highlights last summer, there were still a few boxes I wanted to tick off my list.

Westin Harbour Castle

The conference hotel happened to be the Westin Harbour Castle, and after our experience, I think it will become our accommodation of choice on future visits to Toronto.

Westin Harbour Castle

Our home for the week

Although the room itself and the service were nice but not exceptional, the location was second to none. Situated on the shore of Lake Ontario, our room had fantastic views of the water and of Billy Bishop Airport, all while being just steps away from Union Station and several major attractions. The waterfront location and directionality of our room sheltered us from the hustle and noise of the nearby freeways, and even better, we were able to easily take advantage of the trails and park adjacent to the hotel.

Westin Harbour Castle

Our view

Harbourfront

Harbourfront in the late winter – still beautiful on a cloudy day

Harbourfront

Do not feed the birds

We had crossed through the same area in the summer, but it was more peaceful in the time leading up to spring – smaller crowds and open waters – all the more conducive to relaxing, contemplative strolls.

Harbourfront

Even swans love the harbourfront!

Harbourfront Centre

We also made a point this time around to explore the Harbourfront Centre. We had no idea you could watch artists at work in the open studios, or take a look at the art displayed in the galleries.

Harbourfront

Studio

Harbourfront

Gallery

There were also skate rentals available to make use of the picturesque rink in front of the Centre, but (for me), the lack of railings were a deterrent.

Harbourfront

Rink

Steven and Chris and the CBC Museum

After sitting through another taping of a daytime talk show, I think Amanda and I have gotten it out of our system. She booked us tickets to Steven and Chris, a CBC lifestyle show that airs in both Canada and the US.

We couldn’t help but compare this taping to our experience at CityLine last year. It was clear that for Steven and Chris, the audience was somewhat of an afterthought. First of all, it was longer than advertised – about three hours from the expected arrival time to being released from the studio. Second, there was only one monitor where we could follow the action on stage – especially important given the camera and behind the scenes personnel obscured much of what was happening. This monitor was unfortunately also partially blocked by cables. Third, unlike CityLine host Tracy Moore, who spent a lot of time after the show taking photos with all guests who requested one, Steve and Chris, between segments, only managed to pose with about half of the audience, then ran off immediately after the show wrapped. The show assistant and audience wrangler did their best to entertain us during the breaks, with giveaways, but they felt divorced from subjects covered in that episode.

Steve and Chris

Our view

The topics, which included storage design tips, muscle building exercises, cocktail recipes and children’s snacks, were of marginal interest to us, but we could see the appeal of the show. Chris is undoubtedly the star of the show, playing up a persona of a bumbling but good natured host.

Steve and Chris

Steven and Chris

We left the show with something in hand – generous samples of a shampoo and conditioner. But if being a part of a Toronto taping is something on your list, unless you are a Steven & Chris devotee, I’d recommend that you sign up instead for CityLine tickets.

That said, one of the bright sides of the Steve & Chris taping was that it got us to the CBC building. We made sure to check out the public museum while there, where we saw artefacts from shows that both my sister and I grew up watching, including Mr. Dressup and The Friendly Giant.

CBC Museum

The tickletrunk!

CBC Museum

Old friends

CBC Museum

Doing her best Don Cherry impersonation

Raptors!

I will always remember my introduction to Canada’s only NBA franchise – they played an exhibition game many years ago in Edmonton, and although I’m sure the team itself should have been more memorable, what I recall instead was their mascot, Raptor. He has two versions: the more accommodating costume allowed Raptor to perform tricks and dunks, while the other (my favourite) was inflatable, and could be expanded and shrunk in the most comical matter. Needless to say, in anticipating our visit to the ACC, I was most looking forward to seeing Raptor again.

Toronto Raptors

Anticipation

Amanda was able to secure tickets to a game versus the Orlando Magic. They were great seats at an amazing discount, courtesy of her friend who works for Maple Leaf Sports and Entertainment.

Toronto Raptors

Great seats

Toronto Raptors

The game

We weren’t treated to the inflatable Raptor that day, and as a whole, the Raptor entertainment factor was rather low that day – no half-time tricks or anything more than a pre-recorded video of Raptor’s attempts at making it onto the Canadian Olympic team.

Toronto Raptors

Raptor in the spotlight

The closest we got to Raptor was his foray into our section towards the end of the game, patty-caking with spectators a few rows away from us. His energy was certainly infectious, and it was clear that he was a crowd favourite.

Toronto Raptors

Patty-cake!

Unfortunately for the team, a late rally and a strong performance from DeMar DeRozan wasn’t able to push them past the Magic. They lost 88-92 that night.

Real Sports Bar & Grill

Also on the sports theme, Amanda took me to one of her favourite place in Toronto – Real Sports Bar & Grill, a sports bar in Maple Leaf Square. It’s definitely a feast for the senses, to the point where I felt overly stimulated – between the flat screens (including our own personal television in our cozy booth), sports-themed fixtures, spotlights and blaring DJ-mixed music. And though there was nothing overly inappropriate for children, given the amount of alcohol flowing all around us and the tightly-clad waitresses, I was surprised to see the number of families with young children on the restaurant side of the establishment.

That said, it’s the bar side of Real Sports that really wows. A wall of screens entertain two floors of patrons, seated at the bar and a mix of tables and booths, all lit with a stylish blue hue. In addition to this open space, Real Sports also has a variety of smaller seating options as well, including a private area featuring recliners and in-seat service.

Real Sports

This is Real Sports

Amanda was able to make an early 5:45 reservation, but because it was game night for the Leafs and the place had been entirely booked up a week in advance, we were only able to have the table for an hour. Thankfully, they weren’t very rigid in enforcing this, and we didn’t feel rushed at all.

The prices were definitely a little higher than what I was used to paying in a lounge, but given the location and the surroundings, the premium was understandable. I couldn’t resist ordering one of the hot dogs in “Burkie’s Dog House” (I wonder if this section of the menu would be automatically renamed if Brian Burke was no longer the GM). My southwestern BBQ dog ($12.99) came topped with coleslaw and pulled pork – the hot dog itself had a nice snap, but the barbecue sauce was a tad sweet. The fries were perfect, however, hot and crispy and served in a cute mini-fry basket. Amanda’s Real Sports burger ($12.99) arrived pretty charred, but she didn’t mind.

Real Sports

Southwestern BBQ dog

Real Sports

Real Sports burger

Real Sports did a great job in replicating some of the energy that would be found in a sporting venue. There is nothing like it currently in Edmonton, but I have to wonder if something similar (albeit smaller) would work in the proposed Arena District.

Pearl Harbourfront Chinese Cuisine

We decided to take it easy on our last day in Toronto, with the aforementioned trek by the water. At lunch, we could have ventured to other more well-known restaurants, but given our low-key day, opted for the convenience of a restaurant inside the Queens Quay Terminal.

Pearl Harbourfront offered a water view and a relaxed dining atmosphere, just what we were looking for that day. We knew its tourist-centred address would make the food a crapshoot, but we were willing to take the risk. Urban Spoon reviews directed us away from the pricey dim sum menu (even though the majority of diners around us were partaking in the shared approach), but we found the regular menu just as expensive.

Pearl

Amanda liked the view

We ended up with two dishes we were reasonably happy with (even though we weren’t entirely sure the server, with his limited English, understood what we wanted). Both the broad rice noodles and crispy chow mein ($15 each) hit the spot, and our only qualm was that the broccoli had been woefully overcooked.

Pearl

Rice noodles

Pearl

Chow mein

In all, it was a great place to sip tea and enjoy our last few hours together in Toronto, and contemplate when I’d return again.

I’ll be writing more about some of the unique food events and restaurants that we visited in future posts – stay tuned!

Calgary Steak-Out: Rouge

In addition to commemorating the Stampede’s 100th Anniversary this year, Calgary also co-holds the title of Cultural Capital of Canada in 2012. As a result, Tourism Calgary is seeking different ways of marketing their city, including how to highlight their burgeoning food scene. So for two days in February, Tourism Calgary invited several food bloggers to join them for “a new take on steak”, showcasing how five local restaurants are interpreting the old standard of meat and potatoes. Mack and I were fortunate enough to be a part of this group (which included Calgary bloggers Julie van Rosendaal, Gwendolyn Richards and Dan Clapson), and took part in a junket that saw our accommodations and meals covered. It was a first for both of us, and while we acknowledge that we no doubt received special treatment (which colours the experience in a way that no average dinner could live up to), the trade-off in access to the chefs and behind-the-scenes exposure made it worthwhile. Thanks to Tourism Calgary for the opportunity!

We ended the YYCSteak Tour at the most formal of the restaurants we dined in that weekend, Rouge. Located in a historic house in the central neighbourhood of Inglewood, Rouge is known for its celebration of  seasonal ingredients and exquisite wine pairings. In fact, two years ago, it was named one of the S. Pellegrino World’s 100 Best Restaurants.

Chef Paul Rogalski’s French-style cooking techniques and commitment to local producers reminded me very much of Chef Blair Lebsack. Both have such deep respect for farmers that a conversation with them reminds you that sourcing locally can be the norm and not the exception. We were fortunate that Chef Rogalski was able to sit down and join us for the entire dinner that night and share some of his insights (and of course, introduce each course!).

It was clear that Chef Rogalski had put a lot of thought into his take on steak, so much so that we weren’t getting just one interpretation, but four. The first was a steak tartar, dressed with Rouge’s signature beet paint and an incredible accent of creamy, thick egg yolk that had been cooked in an immersion circulator. Mack thought there could have been more crostini, however.

Rouge

Steak tartar

Before the second dish arrived, we were told that we would be having shabu-shabu. I really wasn’t expecting the slice of shaved beef,  horseradish agar gel and mushroom terrine with an herb-infused elk consommé that we were presented with. I didn’t enjoy the texture of the terrine, and the beef was actually quite difficult to eat in that shallow bowl, so it was not my favourite course. That said, it was easily the most elegant take on shabu-shabu I’ve ever had!

Rouge

Shabu-shabu

My favourite course was the lamb two ways: a cut of sirloin and braised lamb bound together with lentils. The latter was particularly memorable, with perfectly prepared lentils enriched with bites of tender, shredded lamb.

Rouge

Lamb two ways

Then, perhaps the most elegant plate of steak that weekend, served with a foie gras and bone marrow spring roll and a salsify bean puree. Not captured in the picture below was the most delicious rosti – it only made sense that their potato component would be equally compact but delicious.

Rouge

Steak and spring roll

It should be said that Manager Andy MacDonald did an amazing job pairing wines with each course, but because we were departing for Edmonton immediately after that dinner, we didn’t really indulge all that much. On another occasion, we would have been happy to fully partake, but we know from Gwen that the pairings were enjoyable!

Rouge

A thumbs up from Gwen!

The kitchen even had something sweet for us to end with – a bee pollen macaron with lemon cream.

Rouge

Macaron

Although we appreciated the experience at Rouge, it was actually our least favourite of the YYCSteak visits. I still can’t quite put my finger on it, but it probably had to do in part with the relative formality of the restaurant compared with the others (I’m finding that I am definitely gravitating more to the casual upscale form of dining as of late). So although there is a time and place for such proper meals, I will admit that Rouge wouldn’t be our first choice on future trips to Calgary.

Still, many thanks to Chef Rogalski and the rest of the staff at Rouge for their generosity and hospitality – it did help round out our perspective of the Calgary steak scene.

Rouge
1240 8 Avenue SE, Calgary
(403) 531-2767

Calgary Steak-Out: Raw Bar

In addition to commemorating the Stampede’s 100th Anniversary this year, Calgary also co-holds the title of Cultural Capital of Canada in 2012. As a result, Tourism Calgary is seeking different ways of marketing their city, including how to highlight their burgeoning food scene. So for two days in February, Tourism Calgary invited several food bloggers to join them for “a new take on steak”, showcasing how five local restaurants are interpreting the old standard of meat and potatoes. Mack and I were fortunate enough to be a part of this group (which included Calgary bloggers Julie van Rosendaal, Gwendolyn Richards and Dan Clapson), and took part in a junket that saw our accommodations and meals covered. It was a first for both of us, and while we acknowledge that we no doubt received special treatment (which colours the experience in a way that no average dinner could live up to), the trade-off in access to the chefs and behind-the-scenes exposure made it worthwhile. Thanks to Tourism Calgary for the opportunity!

Three years ago, we stayed at Hotel Arts during a weekend jaunt to Calgary. We had enjoyed our stay for the most part, but didn’t get a chance to try the hotel restaurant Raw Bar. To be honest, from the name, my assumption was that their menu would consist of mainly uncooked items – but on the contrary, although they do offer some items such as sushi and oysters, most of Chef Duncan Ly’s dishes are in fact not raw.

Raw Bar was originally intended to be the last stop on our YYC Steak Tour, but because we had to head back to Edmonton that night, a lunch with Hala from Tourism Calgary was organized for us earlier in the day.

Raw Bar

Interior (that peeks into the adjacent pool)

Raw Bar is quite a dramatic space, with futuristic touches and a stark red and black colour scheme. We were told the restaurant is known from their cocktails (with an award-winning mixologist on staff), and it was after noon, so we had to try one round of drinks. The menu, filled with gorgeous shots of the coloured drinks, was enticing to say the least, and I have to say, the drinks we received were exactly as they had appeared in the photos! I ended up with a Searching North, a mildly sweet combination of Mount Gay rum, peach and apricot, Turkish Urfa biber and lemongrass. Mack’s Eclectic Orchard, with rhubarb and strawberry, El Dorado rum, hibiscus flowers, peppery spice and mint foam deviated from something he would typically drink, but turned out to be light and refreshing.

Raw Bar

Apple Cart Daisy, Eclectic Orchard, Searching North cocktails

Hala and I continued with the tour’s theme, ordering the day’s steak sandwich and pad thai with beef, respectively. Mack decided to take a break from the bovine, and chose the halibut fish and chips. To start, we couldn’t pass up the bacon and mushroom poutine.

The upmarket poutine was definitely not your down-home diner version, only lightly dressed and not smothered in peppercorn gravy. The twice-cooked fries stayed pretty crispy, but we wished a more generous hand had dealt the cheese curds. It was all right, but not something we’d necessarily order again.

Raw Bar

Mushroom and bacon poutine

Hala enjoyed her sandwich, cooked a nice medium rare. My pad thai seemed to be an interpretation of the dish I am used to ordering at Thai restaurants, with a creamy base more reminiscent of a pasta sauce than a stir-fry. I did like the variety and proportion of vegetables included, as well as the plump and toothsome shrimp. But the beef was unfortunately overcooked and chewy.

Raw Bar

Steak sandwich

Raw Bar

Pad thai

Mack fared better with his fish and chips, served with a jalapeño tartar sauce and a grilled lemon. The gaufrette potato chips were especially crisp and easy to enjoy.

Raw Bar

Halibut fish and chips

Raw Bar is also known for their poolside service in warmer weather. I can imagine sipping an inventive, seasonal cocktail by the water with some nibbles wouldn’t be a bad way to pass the time. Thanks again to Hala for hosting us that afternoon – it was great to catch up as it was to finally see what Raw Bar had up its sleeve.

Raw Bar (inside Hotel Arts)
119 – 12 Avenue SW, Calgary
(403) 206-9565

Calgary Steak-Out: CHARCUT

In addition to commemorating the Stampede’s 100th Anniversary this year, Calgary also co-holds the title of Cultural Capital of Canada in 2012. As a result, Tourism Calgary is seeking different ways of marketing their city, including how to highlight their burgeoning food scene. So for two days in February, Tourism Calgary invited several food bloggers to join them for “a new take on steak”, showcasing how five local restaurants are interpreting the old standard of meat and potatoes. Mack and I were fortunate enough to be a part of this group (which included Calgary bloggers Julie van Rosendaal, Gwendolyn Richards and Dan Clapson), and took part in a junket that saw our accommodations and meals covered. It was a first for both of us, and while we acknowledge that we no doubt received special treatment (which colours the experience in a way that no average dinner could live up to), the trade-off in access to the chefs and behind-the-scenes exposure made it worthwhile. Thanks to Tourism Calgary for the opportunity!

Like many other Canadians, I was excited when the popular American television franchise Top Chef finally started filming a Canadian version. I think we need to develop our own host of culinary celebrities to celebrate home grown talent, and this platform could help do just that. The results thankfully improved with time, and hopefully with its second season will continue to do so.

In spite of the show’s wavering quality, however, as a Prairie-dweller, it was a no-brainer to cheer for Calgary-based Connie DeSousa, who was also one of the few female competitors. Her drive, obsessive attention to detail and her mad butchery skills made her a fan favourite, qualities that I hoped would take her to the end. Connie ended up placing a respectable third, though in many respects, it was as good as first prize. The exposure to an audience of Food Network devotees was invaluable to Connie’s reputation as a chef, and on a wider level, in developing CHARCUT’s brand. Though we’d been to CHARCUT prior Top Chef Canada’s debut, it almost seems like a different restaurant today, enlivened now with that touch of celebrity. I’m sure it also helps that CHARCUT has since expanded their initiatives to include the unique alley burger, food truck and pop-up series.

Needless to say, Mack and I were really looking forward to our second full CHARCUT experience on the third leg of the YYC Steak tour. You can also imagine our delight when we found out we would not only be eating Connie’s food, but would be treated to a private demo, too.

Our group was whisked upstairs to CHARCUT’s fairly spacious prep kitchen for a lesson on blood sausage. There, Connie and her partner John Jackson showed us how to make the delicacy. They started with a panade of white bread and milk, added ground pork, fat back, apple, then the main ingredient, blood. The splatter-free counter was a testament to Connie and John’s skills, who neatly transferred the mixture to a plastic bag to be hand-piped into sausage casings. It was clear the pair had a wonderful rapport with one another, and this translated wonderfully into a teaching capacity – I could see this translating to a larger stage quite easily.

Charcut

Straining the blood

Charcut

In goes the blood

Charcut

Into the casing

Connie also showed us how to trim a bison heart, which would comprise the steak that evening. For most of us, it would be our first time sampling this type of offal.

Charcut

Trimming the heart

The entire session felt a bit surreal to both Mack and I. Being the Top Chef junkies that we are, we couldn’t help thinking, “It’s Connie!!!” the entire time. We’re huge dorks, I know.

Charcut

Our view of the kitchen

Charcut

At our chef’s table seats

We eventually made our way to the chef’s table at the rear of the restaurant so our dinner could be prepared. While we waited for the mains, we were served CHARCUT’s take on ham and cheese: the most exquisite house made pig’s head mortadella, paired with an oozing baked raclette that was good enough to bathe in. Notable also was the beer pairing – Naramata Nut Brown Ale, which, as a non-beer drinker, I found not only tolerable, but enjoyable.

Charcut

Mortadella, brassica mustard and baked raclette

Charcut

Naramata Nut Brown Ale

The blood sausage was first, served up with fried eggs – possibly the most unique sausage and eggs I’d ever had. The sausage resembled ground meat more than anything else, having burst out of its casing. It also tasted very similar, albeit with a tinge of iron. Mack and I both agreed that there was nothing to be afraid of, though we weren’t sure it was something we would necessarily seek out.

Charcut

Blood sausage and eggs

The finale was the bison heart, rustically presented on a wooden board, liberally garnished with chimichurri and arugula, complete with a “stake” knife. The meat, which had been marinated for eight hours in olive oil and red wine vinegar, was like a cross between a flat iron steak and liver – tender consistency, with again a tinge of iron. Mack went all out for the side of CHARCUT’s signature poutine, with potatoes fried in duck fat and curds topped with a chicken-fat gravy. Heart-stoppingly good.

Charcut

Bison heart and duck fat poutine

Though each of our experiences on the steak tour were unique, because of our soft spot for Connie, I think our stop at CHARCUT was the most memorable.

Just in time for the season two premiere of Top Chef Canada on March 12, 2012, Chef Connie DeSousa will be in Edmonton presenting a cooking demo at 1pm and 3pm on March 11 at Appliances Unlimited (6553-99th Street).

Calgary Steak-Out: Anju

In addition to commemorating the Stampede’s 100th Anniversary this year, Calgary also co-holds the title of Cultural Capital of Canada in 2012. As a result, Tourism Calgary is seeking different ways of marketing their city, including how to highlight their burgeoning food scene. So for two days in February, Tourism Calgary invited several food bloggers to join them for “a new take on steak”, showcasing how five local restaurants are interpreting the old standard of meat and potatoes. Mack and I were fortunate enough to be a part of this group (which included Calgary bloggers Julie van Rosendaal, Gwendolyn Richards and Dan Clapson), and took part in a junket that saw our accommodations and meals covered. It was a first for both of us, and while we acknowledge that we no doubt received special treatment (which colours the experience in a way that no average dinner could live up to), the trade-off in access to the chefs and behind-the-scenes exposure made it worthwhile. Thanks to Tourism Calgary for the opportunity!

It was a pleasant surprise to find an Edmonton ex-pat at the helm of Anju, the second stop on our steak tour. Roy Oh moved to Calgary from Edmonton nine years ago after completing his study in visual communications, with the hopes of furthering his career. But he started to find that he was drawn not to the studio, but to the kitchen. While Oh isn’t formally trained in the culinary arts, he grew up learning to cook, and as a proud second generation Korean-Canadian, food was a way to connect with his roots.

Anju

Go, Edmonton!

In 2008, Oh and his wife opened Anju in a refurbished house on the western edge of downtown Calgary. Their take on Korean cuisine is fresh and modern, inspired by the fact that he has a foot in two cultures. As a result, he doesn’t view “fusion” in a negative way; in fact, he embraces it as the outcome of living as a hyphenated Korean-Canadian. And Calgary is taking note as well – Anju won the award for “best small plates” from Avenue Calgary last year.

Anju translates to “tapas or a dish eaten with alcohol” – at our tasting, we learned first hand about this philosophy as our group was introduced to soju. Distilled from rice instead of wheat, soju is the Korean equivalent of vodka. It was quite smooth, and much less abrasive than vodka, though we were also provided with Sprite and aloe juice if any of us needed to take the edge off.

To enjoy with the soju, we were served a number of plates to be shared around the table, many highlighting Oh’s fusion philosophy. Malpec oysters were accompanied by a kimchi mignonette, which enhanced each bite with additional texture and a bit of heat. Braised oxtail tortellini were dressed with soy, grana padano and truffle oil – incredibly fragrant, with scallions providing a fresh pop. Anju’s version of crispy tofu was perfectly fried on the outside but silky on the inside, highlighted with sauteed kimchi and a citrus aioli.

Anju

Malpec oysters with a kimchi mignonette

Anju

Braised oxtail tortellini

Anju

Crispy tofu

Then came the chicken wings. Our Calgarian tablemates had been vocal in expressing their hopes that one of Anju’s signature dishes would be served that night, so naturally, a cheer erupted when they appeared at our table. Sunworks chicken had been lightly fried, then tossed with a potent Korean hot sauce. The wings had a nice crunch, and the sauce was definitely uncensored – we joked that it was the culinary equivalent to Botox, a natural way to plumper lips.

Anju

Chicken wings

But this was the steak tour after all, so Anju’s grand finale was a rib eye that had been marinated in a simple mixture of soy sauce, sesame oil, lime, garlic, ginger and sugar. The result was tender meat that had a slightly sweet finish. And Anju’s twist on potatoes? Roasted fingerling potatoes were accompanied by a tangy sesame aioli.

Anju

Marinated rib eye with fingerling potatoes

It was great to experience Anju’s take on steak and Korean-influenced cuisine as a whole – more than any of the other meals that weekend, it felt like the most personal. I loved that Oh has been able to merge Prairie inspirations with culinary traditions that honour his heritage. Perhaps we could convince him to move back to Edmonton one day, too.

Anju
507 – 10 Street SW, Calgary
(403) 532-9419