Category: travel

Weekend at Goose Lake

Mack had been talking about bringing me to “the lake” all summer, and over the September long weekend, we finally made it to Goose Lake.

Goose Lake

We drove out on Saturday afternoon, arriving a little while before supper was to start, and had some time to laze around the fire with an alcoholic beverage in hand.

Our home for the weekend – Haights’ Haven (not quite the log cabin or insect sanctuary I had pictured)

Kim the Firemaster

Mack’s grandparents and Tom around the fire

After a dinner of Shirley’s chili and the massive sourdough sandwiches Mack and I had made the night before, we hung around the lake. Our canoe trip was cut short due to water seepage into the boat, but we did make it back on shore in time to see Tom catch a good-sized jackfish.

Tom with fish

We ended the night with some more time around the fire (with marshmallows!) and two card drinking games in Nightmare Nook – Sociables was particularly fun!

Mack playing Sociables

We woke up to the sound of people and pots on Sunday morning. That was one of the nicest things about staying at the lake – we were well taken care of, as both breakfast and dinner were prepared for us by Mack’s relatives, and we barely had to lift a finger all weekend.

The afternoon gave way to recreational pursuits including a leisurely bike ride through the neighbouring campsite, clowning around at a playground, and a lengthy canoe ride (in a fiberglass boat this time) across the lake. Though we weren’t able to get all the way to the weir due to a run-in with silt and weeds, we did see two blue herons.

Biking

Swinging

Tom looking like he’s having the time of his life

Canoeing

Mack, Tom, Mike and Stacey also started a fierce (and mouthy) battle of horseshoes, and we spent more time around the campfire to feed our hunger for flame-kissed hotdogs.

Mike and Mack playing horseshoes

Sitting around the fire

Quite possibly the best picture from the weekend

 

Roasting hot dogs

Peanut

Skippy (the two most adorable dogs I’ve seen in a long time)

Dinner was again a family affair. Stacey helped everyone barbecue the meat of choice they had brought along, and Shirley prepared a number of side dishes for everyone to share. Dessert on this night was a fabulous lemon meringue pie.

My steak and potatoes

Lemon meringue pie

Tom and Mike do “the pose”

We were a little less industrious this evening, and simply relaxed by the fire, entertained by a stream of politically incorrect jokes and pyro tendencies. The stars shone with force that night, and had it been a little warmer, I would have liked to lay down to fully appreciate their majesty.

Monday morning consisted of breakfast, group photos, clean-up, and of course, a rematch for the horseshoe gang. Kim also introduced me to “the book” – a loose-leaf record signed by all who have stayed at the lake.

The “kids”

Thanks again to Fred, Shirley, Stacey and Karen for all of your hospitality – I had a great time! It was nice to get away from the city for a while, be “off the grid” as Mack calls it, and to kick back and relax in the outdoors. Mack’s complete set of photos is here.

Kitsch Worth Exploring: Sophie’s Cosmic Cafe

Brunch is my favourite type of meal, and though the food served during this time can, in most instances, be duplicated fairly easily at home, there’s something about waking up on a weekend morning to have breakfast in a brightly lit, bustling, comfortable diner. I’ve sought out most of the restaurants that fit this bill in Edmonton, and have slowly started to branch out to Calgary, but all travel situations provide me with an additional opportunity to sample diners frequented by the locals.

I turned to the Georgia Straight Golden Plates awards to point me in the right direction, and found Sophie’s Cosmic Café. The website didn’t provide menu details, but the kitschy décor cinched it for us.

Located in the pedestrian and window-shopping-friendly Kitsilano neighbourhood, it was packed with just a few tables to spare at 11am. We were seated within minutes, giving us a brief moment to take in the incredible square footage of collected “junk” displayed on walls and every nook and cranny available – I was certain I could’ve spent hours up close with the garage sale all call.

Interior

Mack poses appropriately with a Mr. T jewelry collection

The menu options posed a challenge to us, with many tempting dishes. In the end, I opted for the thick-cut French toast to be served with sausages ($9.95), while Mack heeded my suggestion and ordered the scrambled eggs and pastrami, served with hashbrowns and toast ($10.95).

Mack used the word “efficient” to describe our experience at Sophie’s, and I can’t disagree with him. Our food arrived after no more than ten minutes after the waitress took our order, and unlike Nellie’s, our waitress continuously topped up our mugs with coffee without being asked. Moreover, a request for water was filled immediately. The food was great as well – the sausages, crackling and crispy on the outside, but juicy and soft on the inside – were the best I’ve had at a diner in recent memory. The French toast was indeed thick-cut, so much so that the very centre of the bread hadn’t had enough time to soak in the egg mixture before being thrown onto the pan, but that was a minor complaint. Mack thoroughly enjoyed his breakfast as well, with the scramble relieving his craving for eggs.

Thick-cut French Toast and Sausages

Pastrami and Eggs

Sophie’s Cosmic Café is a fun, friendly and fast diner that’s worth the visit, and even better, is situated in a neighbourhood worth sticking around for later.

Sophie’s Cosmic Café
2095 4th Avenue West
(604) 732-6810

An Exquisitely Choreographed Dance: Vij’s

Vij’s has a reputation that precedes itself. Between its consistent top-five Canadian ranking, celebrity sightings, and tales of its mythically long wait times, perhaps owner Vikram Vij was blessed with foresight in choosing the large tusked animal as its symbol – there is no doubt that great expectations are the elephant in the room.

Exterior lineup (you know you’re in Vancouver when you see at least two other people pull out their wireless devices to check for internet)

Even though we had eaten a full meal not three hours prior, we joined the line about 20 deep outside Vij’s at around 5:15. When their doors opened fifteen minutes later, some of the line stragglers behind us failed to be seated, and faced with a wait time of at least an hour and a half, chose to head elsewhere. Others however, through the course of our meal, either chose to lounge in the bar at the rear of the restaurant, or, when that was full, took their drinks out onto the outdoor patios to wait it out. We were glad not to be amongst that crowd.

My only minor complaint about the restaurant was their lack of more than one bathroom – for the number of people frequenting the restaurant, I would think regulations would stipulate at least two stalls per gender.

Interior

After the waitresses swept through the room, efficiently doling out menus, glasses and tin carafes of water to each table, we were also given a free cup of warm chai, and throughout the moments of menu perusal, three hot samples to try from a basket offered by a gregarious server (a pakora, a fry, and a spiced chip of some sort). It was the beginning of the Vij’s welcome: hospitable efforts that made us feel like guests instead of diners.

Chai (the cups were too cute)

I already knew I wanted to try the spicy paranta ($11.50) made with ground crickets that I had read about in the Globe a few months back, and I remembered the praise always heaped upon the wine-marinated lamb popsicles ($26.50). For our second entree, I thought a vegetable-based dish would round out our meal nicely, so opted for the cabbage, potato and bell pepper in coconut, blueberry and cilantro masala with homemade crispy noodles ($24).

Our wait was pleasant, and though I was disappointed that we didn’t see any celebrities (Shermie had waited alongside Eric McCormack on her last visit), our door-side table did provide many opportunities to gawk at the patrons that did pass through (a Buddhist monk and two Southern beauty queens walk into Vij’s…). The paranta arrived, complemented by a turnip salad. Had the menu not mentioned crickets, I would have assumed, from both the taste and the texture, that the thin bread was made from whole wheat flour. The turnip was nicely prepared as well, albeit too spicy for my palate.

Paranta made with roasted, ground cricket and chapati flour

Our entrees, served with a bowl of rice and a basket of naan bread, were the stars of the show. The lamb popsicles were our favourite, perfectly grilled and immersed in a creamy fenugreek curry sauce. I’ve been scarred in past experience with lamb, but if it were always cooked to such tender conditions, I’d opt for lamb over pork anytime. The masala received a more mixed review, as I found the potatoes a tad undercooked, but the unusual addition of blueberries were a nice sweet treat.

Naan bread

Lamb popsicles

Masala

The entire evening was a satisfying blur of attentive waitresses, a thorough attention to detail, and a surreal feeling that accompanied my first dining experience that felt wholly like an exquisitely choreographed dance. Unlike our meal at The Blue Pear, where being tended to by several people resulted in a scattered and haphazard impression of the service, the fact that multiple waitresses had a hand in our evening made us feel more at home and taken care of. Perhaps that had to do with the little things – immediately bringing us a cooling bowl of raita when I mentioned offhand that one of the dishes was a bit spicy; a mere forty-five seconds between an empty basket of naan being replaced by a fresh basket; and most impressive of all, the use of a plate warmer to ensure that the food to be consumed didn’t lose their heat upon transfer to an individual’s plate.

Suffice to say, our experience at Vij’s survived the hype. Bravo to the staff, and keep up the great work.

Vij’s
1480 11th Avenue West
(604) 736-6664

Rob’s Renaissance: Cactus Club Bentall 5

I will admit I had a good chuckle when I initially read about Rob Feenie’s appointment as a “Food Concept Architect” for the Cactus Club chain. His punt from grace seemed complete – the tale of his dispute with the co-investor in his highly-praised Feenie’s and Lumiere restaurants provided much fodder for gourmand gossip, and after being forced out, his acceptance of a job that at the time seemed beneath him was surprising if not downright sad. I had visited Feenie’s for brunch last year, and though I wasn’t too impressed, probably couldn’t judge him too harshly without feasting on his supposed masterpieces being served next door at his signature Lumiere eatery. Last month, a review in the Globe & Mail started to pique my interest in his Cactus Club creations, in what the writer deemed to be Feenie’s renaissance, Lumiere-lite, if you will, in having to work with a finicky clientele interested in trendy food for a reasonable price, it seemed he was hitting it out of the park.

Though I was certain they didn’t take reservations, I called to make sure, and indeed, the new Cactus Club Bentall 5 (the only location thus far that serves Feenie’s signature dishes) seated only on a first come, first served basis. I asked what time I would have to be present to beat the rush on a Friday evening, and she advised me to show up at 4:30pm.

Exterior

While Mack and I weren’t sure we could make such an early dinner time, we ended up there just before 5 after visiting the Vancouver Aquarium and Stanley Park. There was a wait for patio seating, but as we weren’t picky, we were led almost immediately to a cozy booth in an area situated between the kitchen and the bar, right in the thick of things.

Interior

The restaurant was grand, but not off-putting. Two levels of seating were graced with natural light that flowed through the floor-to-ceiling windows, accenting the sparkly newness of it all – the dark, leather-bound seats, a beautiful high-standing glass wine case, and a wide, spacious bar frequented by the label-adorned business class. The room was bustling, busy in a way that made diners feel self-congratulatory in their restaurant pick, and even more so when stumbling into the bathroom, which featured not only automatic taps and flush toilets, but a plastic-wrapped toilet seat that instantly revolved with “fresh” material at the touch of a button.

The menu, as expected, featured a mix of salads, burgers, and larger entrees very similar to what might be expected at Earls. Rob Feenie’s touches were not clearly marked, so we checked with the waitress, who pointed to the panko-breaded chicken breast salad and butternut squash ravioli ($16), as two examples. I couldn’t resist the ravioli, salivating at the mere idea of truffle oil, while Mack decided on a seafood pasta dish, the prawn and scallop spaghettini ($19). Having been on a slider kick the last few months, we also ordered the mini burgers ($11) to start.

Mack checking for wifi…and success!

While we waited for our first course, I sipped on a “better than sex” (their description, not mine) bellini, and Mack enjoyed a beer. When our burgers arrived, they looked so delectable that we were sad they didn’t serve them in fours. We quite liked them, though to be honest they were nothing special – simply scaled-down versions of a bar staple.

Mini Burgers

Our entrees, on the other hand, made the meal. The ravioli was exquisite (and Giada-esque) – aromatically infused with truffle oil, dotted with crumbled amaretti cookies and pine nuts, and filled with sweet pureed squash – it was like having a dessert course for dinner. Mack similarly liked his spaghettini, attractively presented with the noodles twirled and topped with a scallop and shrimp, he was pleased to find two more of each buried underneath. The food was also deceivingly filling, but not to the point where we were uncomfortably full.

Butternut Squash Ravioli

Prawn and Scallop Spaghettini

I can say without hesitation that our experience at Cactus Club Bentall 5 was a great one. And to Rob Feenie – I owe you an apology: if you ever decide to make a lateral move to Earls, I may be made a believer yet.

Cactus Club Bentall 5
588 Burrard Street
(604) 682-0933

Vancouver 2008 Wrap-up

Though I don’t feel we did enough over our four days in Vancouver to make the trip wholly worthwhile, at least the reason for our trip – to watch Michelle and Steven get married – was a fun day out. As well, Mack and I now know the areas that we would like to explore in further detail in the future – Gastown and Kitsilano to name a few. Below, a day-to-day recap of our trip, minus the restaurants that I will cover in greater detail.

Friday

After finally getting something to eat at a not-worth-mentioning salad bar, Mack and I walked to Stanley Park to visit the Vancouver Aquarium. It’s been years since I was there last, so many, in fact, that my memory failed to recall how absolutely tiny the attraction is. We were done touring the underwater galleries in no time (granted, we didn’t have the little-kid awe or curiosity we used to have), but I was most looking forward to the open air displays. My little otter friend Milo “Jack” was there, and though we stayed to listen to the brief beluga presentation (while actually spying on the Stockwell Day-lookalike), watch the otter feeding, and attempted to get a glimpse of the dolphin show, I was overall disappointed with how small the aquarium was. It was definitely not worth the $24.95 admission we paid at the door.

Stanley Park

Trees

Mack with flowers

Swimming to the light!

Crocodile

Jellyfish

In a bubble

Milo the sea otter!

There he goes!

The beluga is wearing a sweater (and yes, we were too cheap to buy anything)

After dinner at the newest Cactus Club, we headed to the Chinatown Night Market, a daily summer event likely held to try to bring traffic in to a neighbourhood otherwise abandoned in the evening. Given that we passed through an area featuring interesting buildings (the $10 a night hostel with chicken wire on the windows was notable for the wrong reasons), I wasn’t surprised at the mostly deserted streets en route to Chinatown. At any rate, we were greeted by a modest collection of booths selling everything from cheap trinkets and toys to home décor items and undergarments (at the unbeatable price of 10 for $10!). Of course, we zoomed in on the food, despite having just eaten a satisfyingly filling dinner. The dumplings were too irresistible (and cheap) to resist, being pan-fried right before our eyes, and a serving of vegetarian noodles seemed the perfect to top off our post-meal snack. The noodles were unfortunately lukewarm, but the dumplings tasted as good as they looked.

Night Market

Trolling for trinkets

Pork and chive dumplings

 

Vegetarian noodles

On our way back to Triumf House, we stopped in Yoko Yaya (88 West Pender Street), a store very similar to Daiso in Aberdeen Centre – a mecca of $1-3 treasures (a word Mack would undoubtedly dispute to be used in this context). I was only able to wander the store for 20 minutes, as Mack’s threshold of pain was waning.

Saturday

Though we took a few wrong turns, we made it to the church on time. The ceremony was brief but nice, and we stayed a short while for group pictures. Because we had quite a lengthy period of time to kill before the reception, the lot of us Edmonton folk headed out early to the Metropolis at Metrotown, also home of the Fortune House Seafood Restaurant where we were due at 6pm (I am thankful to the organizers of the wedding who had the foresight to book a restaurant in a mall, providing an easy way to pass the time for out-of-town guests).

We decided to skip the mall offerings and walked to the nearby IHOP (5137 Kingsway). Mack is forever waxing poetic about the addictive nature of their eggs, but after my experience, I’m hard pressed to distinguish IHOP from my local Denny’s. While I was intrigued that my ham and three-cheese omelette contained a splash of their “famous” pancake batter, I couldn’t distinguish what flavour, if any, was added because of that. The pancakes themselves, not gussied up with anything except butter, were also pretty ordinary.

Mack taking a hit of syrup

Dickson with his…salad

Mack’s Ham & Egg Melt

My Supreme Ham & Cheese Omelette

Pancakes

The sad-looking waffle (“It’s not IHOW.”)

We had enough time to take in a screening of Tropic Thunder (I loved Robert Downey Jr. with his over-the-top method acting satire) before heading to the restaurant.

The dinner was comprised of the traditional 10 courses of mainly seafood dishes. Thankfully for me, there were enough vegetables mixed in so I didn’t go hungry.

Party favours

Mack & I

Jane & Yi-Li

Dickson and Violet demonstrate the perfect pout

Megan and Mack eat “air” (or so they thought of the deep-fried chips)

The crispy-fried pork dish was my favourite…talk about a diet-busting entrée

Stan & Felix demonstrate their “gangster” pose

The wedding party’s table toast

Group shot – congrats Michelle & Steven!

We then headed outside for a few more pictures…just like old times.

The girls

The guys

Everyone being random

Jump!

Sunday

Our only day of drizzly, grey, typical Vancouver weather was spent mostly eating and lazing around. We headed to Granville Island, the place where I spent my only free day in Vancouver over a year ago. Though Mack tried to dissuade me from doing so, I was keen to retry the Fresh Tomato and Cheese pizza from Bridges (1696 Duranleau Street), a dish I had confidently labelled in 2007 as the “best pizza I ever had”. The pizza was actually quite different than the one I remember – dusted with cornmeal, and (as it was summer) featuring a lot more tomatoes than the winter version, this pizza was less cheesy and chewier than the other. Mack’s halibut fish and chips were great – enrobed in a light and crisp batter, they made for a nice lunch.

Tomato and Cheese Pizza

Fish and Chips

We walked around the Granville Public Market, oohing and ahhing (at least, I was) at all of the wonderful produce available. The only downside of visiting such markets is having to restrain myself from buying everything, knowing that we wouldn’t be able to carry or eat our purchases before they would spoil.

Market

Champagne grapes

I heart hydrangeas

We also wandered into the Net Loft and Kids Market, two buildings that I hadn’t been to before. The loft specifically was great, with a kitchen wares store, a cookbook shop, stationary store, and even a hat boutique that was so packed it was difficult to move between the shelves.

Mack by the harbour

After dinner at Vij’s (which absolutely deserves its own post), we chilled out at Blenz with tea and wifi for Mack and a paper for me.

Always on his iPod

Us

Monday

Following a great breakfast at Sophie’s Cosmic Cafe, we headed to Gastown for a walking tour. Having been on walking tours in several cities now, I can say I quite enjoy them. I never remember the small details or facts, but I find it’s a great way to be introduced to a part of town by a local.

Gassy Jack statue

Hotel Europe (looks like the Gibson Block in Edmonton)

The famous steam-powered clock

As always, it was nice to get away, but the trip was too short. You can read Mack’s summary post here, and see all of the photos from our trip here.

Off to Vancouver!

I’m off to Vancouver tonight for a friend’s wedding (sadly, I won’t be bringing along the beautifully-constructed dress made for me by Jane and Megan at Michelle’s shower).

I won’t be “remote-blogging”, but you can bet Mack will be.

Enjoy one of summer’s last weekends (and the Fringe if you’re heading that way)!

A Tourist in Calgary

Most people would scoff at the idea of an Edmontonian visiting Calgary as a tourist, but I am not one of them. I think it is possible to be a tourist even in one’s home city; to me, being a tourist is a state of mind, being open and ready for new experiences and trials, and exploring the familiar in a different way.

As such, I don’t find our southern neighbour to be as pedestrian as some do, because besides the plethora of culinary excitements (to be blogged about shortly), there are numerous everyday sites worth visiting.

Stephen Avenue is one example. My stroll on Saturday yielded many (window) shopping opportunities, as well as a sneaky Kodak moment involving hungry bridesmaids on break from a streetside photoshoot.

“Hot dogs for everybody!”

I also ended up at Art Central (100 7 Avenue SW), though just after many of the shops had closed for the day. Opened in November 2004, the building houses a number of boutiques offering everything from art pieces to jewelry and clothing. A cafe on the top floor looked like a cozy reprieve from the traffic outside.

Art house

My personal favourite stop in the downtown core was the Devonian Gardens, housed in TD Square (317 7 Avenue SW).

Devonian Gardens

Packed with tourists and more than a few locals, the Gardens are an urban sanctuary, very similar to a visit to the Muttart Conservatory (but for free!). There is a playground for children, paths to stroll, soothing water fixtures to relax to, and benches to snack on. It took me a moment to realize that the turtles in the fish pond were real, adorably craning their necks towards the heat lamps. My sister thinks it odd that the greenhouse is situated just above a shopping centre, adjacent to office towers, but I think the designers were spot on in their placement choice – it provides an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of the business and retail worlds, a quiet place to have lunch or meditate, and in the winter, a means to maintain daily physical activity in the face of ice and snow.

Inside the gardens

 

Cascading fountain

Turtles!

Waterfall

Flowers

Reflecting Pond (open in the summer only)

The Gardens will be closing for 18 months starting on October 1, 2008 to undergo renovations (not unlike Edmonton’s Muttart) – so plan to stop by soon if you’re in the city for one last indoor walk.

With the escalating price of gas, I’m not sure how often I’ll be able to get away to Calgary, but if and when I do, I know the sights I would like to return to!

Italian in Banff: Timbers Food Company

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

I’m in Banff this weekend for the nextMEDIA conference, and despite not having my restaurant buddy here with me (that would be Sharon, of course) I’ve checked out a couple of local establishments. Last night I did two things that I pretty much never do: I ate somewhere chosen at random, and I ate alone.

While wandering around downtown Banff, I came across Timbers Food Company, located just off Banff Avenue at 204 Wolf Street. From the outside you might think that Timbers sells logs or camping equipment, but it’s actually an Italian restaurant inside a converted house. The log deck outside seats 60 patrons during the summer months, while the inside has room for 50.

I walked in to find the restaurant about half full, a good sign in my book. I opted to sit at the bar near the front of the restaurant, so that I could watch both the restaurant inside and the busy street outside. The waiter brought water and fresh bread as I got settled in.

After a quick look at the menu, I decided on the Beef Tortellini with Cream of Tomato sauce ($14.95). My first impression after it arrived was that the portion size was quite small, but I was deceived. The tasty dish was really quite filling! I wouldn’t go so far as to call it the best tortellini I’ve ever had, but it definitely hit the spot.

I’m not sure if my waiter was just really friendly or if he guessed that I was some sort of food reviewer (maybe because I was taking photos), but he was very attentive, friendly, and seemed genuinely concerned about whether or not I enjoyed the food. It made my “eating alone” experience much more enjoyable than it would otherwise have been.

If you’re in Banff and and in need of a hearty meal, give Timbers a try.

Timbers

Outside

Inside Timbers

Inside

Beef Tortellini with Cream of Tomato Sauce

Beef Tortellini

Food Escape to Calgary: Day 2

Of course my favorite type of meal – brunch – had to be eaten in a diner. I settled in the end on Galaxie Diner (1411 11 Street SW), located just outside of the downtown core.

Galaxie Diner exterior

Walking up to the front door, it didn’t look good – the line up actually spilled onto the sidewalk. Thankfully, our wait was just under half an hour, and wasn’t unpleasant in the warm spring sunshine. We had time to peer in the window of the restaurant next door – Palace of Eats – which turned out to be owned and operated by the purveyors of Galaxie.

The number of seats in Galaxie are few – 6 booths and a handful of seats along the counter, but with fast, efficient, and friendly service, it’s no surprise that patrons are willing to wait.

Galaxie interior

Mack enjoying his first coffee of the day

While Diner Deluxe and Avenue Diner can be considered more upscale, Galaxie Diner doesn’t pretend to be anything other than a good old neighbourhood greasy spoon. A variety of menu items including omelettes, eggs benedicts, French toast and a parfait meant most tastes would be satisfied. I decided to order the Montreal Smoked Meat Omelette ($11.75), while Mack customized his Omelette of Choice with mushrooms, ham, and cheese ($11.75). Both were served with unlimited hashbrowns and toast.

Our seat at the counter provided the perfect vantage point of the stove and the two cooks behind it. One had perfected cracking an egg with one hand, and both juggled multiple orders on the same griddle with ease.

Hot on the grill

I almost wish I had a scale to weigh my plate before digging in – the serving was absolutely massive. The omelette was the heartiest I’ve ever had – the Montreal Smoked Meat was more flavourful than ham, but less dense than bacon, and really helped make an otherwise standard breakfast option “pop.”

Montreal Smoked Meat Omelette

The goodies inside my omelette

Mack’s custom omelette

Inside Mack’s omelette

With the bill, we were given two Dubble Bubbles – another reminder of the restaurant’s retro feel and fun.

Bubble gum!

My next planned stop was the Calgary Farmer’s Market. Though we had the address, we did not have a detailed map that would help lead us there. Luckily, Mack’s iPod picked up an unsecured wireless signal, and we were saved.

iPod to the rescue! (No, I am not affiliated with Apple in any way.)

Located in an old airport hangar, I was surprised at the sheer size of the market – it is at least twice the size of Old Strathcona’s, if not more.

Market exterior

Market interior

With over eighty merchants selling everything from handmade crafts, flowers, sweets, preserves, seafood, beef, and of course, produce, this market offers most of the essentials sold at a supermarket. What surprised me about the produce was the availability of imported vegetables – tomatoes from Mexico, plantains and garlic from the U.S., fruit from New Zealand. This is in stark contrast to the focus of Edmonton’s farmer’s markets (and the ideal focus, in my opinion) on locally-grown products. Mack thought this variety could be attributed to the need to cater to the customer – attract them to the market with the atmosphere and unique items, but offer them what they would buy elsewhere.

Produce!

Pet treats

Hi Sebastian!

The main reason for our visit was to sample Phil & Sebastian Coffee. Their coffee and their Clover have a cult following in Calgary, and who were we to question the crowd?

Phil & Sebastian Coffee kiosk

The line-up

The Clover

The price for an individually-brewed cup of coffee was not listed on the overhead menu, so we weren’t sure what we were getting ourselves into. It turns out, it wasn’t so bad – the Ethiopian-sourced cup of coffee was $3.50.

As we waited for our order, we chatted with the barista. He extolled the virtue of single-origin coffee, and we talked a bit about Edmonton’s Transcend and Kerstin’s Chocolates. More than the coffee itself, the passion exuded by the staff for their products made the trip here worthwhile. He even asked us to sniff the beans – twice – after they were ground by the machine.

Design also seems to be a Phil & Sebastian strength – their sleek cups and simple but memorable logo help foster the ideal that Starbucks began – that a cup of coffee can offer the illusion of a better life. Printed on the sleeves:

“We could write on the side of our cups about how we’re nothing like the other guys. We could tell you about the pride we take in every drink we serve. We could write about the contents of this cup being hot, and that you should use caution. We could tell you that Phil’s dad can run faster than your dad. We could write about our goal to raise your expectations of coffee. Or maybe, we could write on the side of our cups that you should probably stop reading this because your drink is getting cold. Enjoy.”

The barista told us to wait a bit before giving it a try (though it would have been impossible to do so if we wanted to – the coffee was scorching hot). The fruity tones were evident in the coffee’s aroma, but wasn’t noticeable in the drink itself. Mack noted that it tasted rich but not burnt, but in the end, I’m not sure I could identify a Clover-brewed coffee in a blind taste test. We’re hoping to head to Transcend this weekend to see what Edmonton has to offer.

“I have coffee and you don’t.”

Chinook Centre was our final stop, since Mack was itching to go shopping and spend his wealth of gift cards. The obligatory stop at the nice and roomy RW & Co. yielded no treasures, but Mack did end up picking up something from Old Navy, so the visit wasn’t fruitless.

On our way back to Edmonton, we stopped in Red Deer to have dinner with Tom and Bry at Boston Pizza. The waitress was obviously new, or not very good at multitasking, but it gave us time to catch up. Mack and I ordered the poutine, and I hoped that it would be better than the time before, but no, the gravy was just as lukewarm. But food aside, it was a good meal.

From my last few trips down to Calgary, I think I’ve finally been able to get past the elementary “must hate the city of the Flames” mentality. Not only do they have great restaurants, but the arts scene is more active than I could have ever imagined. Who knew?

The rest of my pictures can be seen on Flickr.

Food Escape to Calgary: Day 1

Being Dine-Out week, as well as what I wanted to optimistically deem a spring thaw, Mack and I decided to head to Calgary this weekend to expand our culinary borders.

After the half-day ETS Community Conference wrapped up, we headed to McDonald’s for some road trip sustenance. Thankfully, fast food wouldn’t set the tone for our food consumption over the next two days, but I will admit to enjoying my Quarter Pounder with Cheese (who knew two slices of processed cheese made such a difference?).

Quarter Pounder, Big Mac and lots of fries

We thought the road conditions would be poor, given that driving within the city was a slush-fest that morning, but the highway was in better shape than we expected, and so we made good time.

I had decided upon the Westin for our accommodations, based on a good experience I had last summer (albeit in the fancy, renovated Business Tower), and the deal they were offering while I was comparison shopping. When we arrived, however, the second impression wasn’t positive. It was past 4pm (keeping in mind that the check-out time was noon), and we were told that our room still had to be cleaned, with a wait of at least forty-five minutes. Opting for fresh air instead of idling in the lounge, we walked over to the nearby Prince’s Island Park.

Though there was still quite a bit of snow to be found on the riverbanks, there were a surprising number of ducks and geese near the water and in the park as a whole. More than that, these animals were so used to people (or are still carrying their winter weight) that they couldn’t be bothered to move away when we approached.

Duck, duck, goose

Geese!

Out on a stroll

River Café, nestled in Prince’s Island Park (was on my short list of Dine Out options, but would be a more appropriate choice in the summer, surrounded by trees in full color)

Why wear a cowboy hat when you can swing on one?

When we made it back to the hotel, we were pleased to find out that we had been upgraded to the Business Tower. Complimentary amenities included long-distance calls to anywhere in North America, wireless internet, Starbucks coffee, and a $21 breakfast credit for the in-house restaurant.

Mack lounging

I had planned a walkable itinerary for Saturday, so we headed for Stephen Avenue on foot. With some time to kill before our reservation, we ended up wandering around Rand McNally Bookstore. From their name, I thought they were only in the business of textbooks, but I was wrong. With wooden floors, a cozy cafe on the third level, and a children’s area that reminded me of the one in You’ve Got Mail‘s fictional Fox Books, it would be a nice escape from the bustle of Stephen Avenue in the summer.

Rand McNally Bookstore interior

Promptly at 6pm, to Blink Restaurant & Bar (111 8th Avenue SW) we went. I posted about Blink Supper Club in May of last year, with a note that their revamped menu was boosting business somewhat. I guess it wasn’t enough, as the original owners sold out, and the “club-by-night” concept gave way to a restaurant in its pure form. Out of my shortlist of Dine Out restaurants, Blink had the most interesting menu as well as a location conducive for the rest of the plan that evening.

Blink exterior

Upon entry, we were greeted by dramatic floor-to-ceiling length curtains, and then a friendly hostess, in that order. Like many a restaurant in Toronto, the dining room was narrow, but deep, lined with banquets, exposed brick, and dark wood. A wine case cleverly hid the DJ’s platform and turnstiles, though one wonders if they will bother keeping this fixture at all. Before she seated us, the hostess asked if we were here for the Dine Out promotion, and offered us both the special and regular menus as a matter of courtesy (take that, Ric’s Grill). The $35 pre-fixe included our choice of appetizer, entree, and dessert from a list of three in each category. Naturally, Mack and I chose completely different dishes to allow for a larger sample size.

Blink interior

Dine Out menu

My puree of squash varietals (with honey and preserves lemon creme fraiche) was divine – not hot enough for my liking, but was finely strained yet thick enough to be substantial. Sweet with just a hint of lemon, it ended up being the best of my three courses. Perhaps it set too high of a bar, as the rest of the dishes were underwhelming. Mack enjoyed his heirloom beets (a pink and orange variety usually not seen) dressed in an orange vinaigrette, but probably would have been satisfied with an entire plate of their creamy, fresh goat cheese alone.

Puree of squash varietals

Heirloom beets

Since being “denied” risotto in Italy, I have been on a quest to find the next best risotto in North America. But after Blink, I think I’m done – while great as a side, as a touch of savoury to a fish course, for example, I find I’m always looking for a bit of protein substance to follow the rice. Unfortunately with Blink’s version as well, my serving had not been continuously stirred, and as a result, the grains were inconsistent – some plump with stock, others still uncooked and crunchy. And though my self-imposed food critic demands had me ordering something other than what Mack had chosen, I should have gone with my gut and opted for the arctic char instead. Mack loved the fish – lighter than salmon, crisp and flavourful, it was both filling and satisfying. I thought the breaded and fried potato galette was the best part though – it was creamy, carb-y, and smooth on the inside.

Risotto of organic mushrooms

Land locked arctic char

For dessert, I couldn’t pass up the vanilla creme brulee, though I still haven’t found a restaurant that can duplicate the creme brulee I had on a cruise a few years ago. The cruise version spoiled me to expect a thin layer of custard, easily warmed through by a freshly torched surface. Blink’s brulee wasn’t bad – flavoured by real vanilla bean, it was definitely a dessert to savour. Mack didn’t enjoy his sticky pudding with butterscotch as much; it was too rich for his taste.

Vanilla creme brulee

Sticky pudding with butterscotch

The experience as a whole at Blink was great – attentive service, a refined atmosphere, and an elegant setting, I would recommend it for those looking for a higher end downtown dining destination. I am a bit disappointed that I wasn’t able to see the transformation of the room into a club, however – I guess I will have to head east for that.

After dinner, we headed to the most tourist-oriented part of our weekend: the Calgary Tower. Why? I had a coupon (heh), and though I had seen the view from the top during the day, the panoramic night display would be new to me.

Going up in a plywood elevator (what would people who are afraid of heights think?)

It turns out it really isn’t anything special. Olympic Plaza looked nice lit from above, and the glass floor provided a momentary distraction, but other than that, we stayed just long enough to get our psychological money’s worth.

Glass floor

At the top

The next stop was a free outdoor Glenbow Museum exhibit on Darfur. From the website:

“DARFUR/DARFUR is a provocative photography exhibit that will be projected onto Glenbow Museum’s walls facing Stephen Avenue and 1st St. S.E. from March 14 to 21, 2008. Over 170 colour and black-and-white images by seven internationally acclaimed photojournalists and one former U.S. Marine will bring into focus the landscape, the culture and the people that are currently under attack in the Darfur region in western Sudan.”

I had a vision that the photographs would be projected on street-level walls, and if we hadn’t heard a music cue, I wouldn’t have even thought to look up. The use of space and the idea of hypothetically exposing people out in public to the atrocities in Darfur are interesting, but standing outside on a random downtown street, the exhibit wasn’t as effective as it could have been.

DARFUR/DARFUR exhibit

Our last photo opportunity (as neither of us had skates) was Olympic Plaza. It was quite picturesque, especially with the lone skater on the pond, but when the snow, out of nowhere, started funnelling out of the sky, the bleak visibility forced us to turn back to the hotel.

Olympic Plaza

Us