The Personal Touch: Hathaway’s Diner

Mack and I often deplore the state of brunch in Edmonton – when asked for brunch recommendations, we’re often hard pressed to suggest hometown favourites; it’s much easier for us to defer to our go-to spots in Calgary. That said, after visiting Hathaway’s Diner this summer, we can confidently say that with a few more gems like this one, Edmonton’s brunch scene would be well on its way.

Of course, Hathaway’s Diner is far from new. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve driven past it, given it’s a stone’s throw away from where Mack’s grandparents live. Tucked in a non-descript strip mall inside the neighbourhood of Wellington, it’s definitely not a restaurant likely to be stumbled upon. But that’s what makes it even more special.

Mack at Hathaway’s Diner

On a Saturday morning (Hathaway’s is closed on Sundays), the restaurant was busy, but not full. The interior was charming enough, with checkered floors and a wood counter complete with a built-in pie case. The only hiccup that day was an initial delay in getting our order taken, but after that, the service we received was some of the best we’ve encountered at breakfast in Edmonton.

Pam was the ultimate hostess. She was warm, and spent enough time with each table so diners felt welcomed and at home. Her personal touch, such as telling us that she “married her husband for his pancakes” made the experience much more memorable than most.

The food was great, too. I ordered the breakfast special with sausage ($7.99), and the pancakes lived up to expectations, light and airy with a touch of sweetness. Mack also enjoyed his eggs benedict (served only on Saturdays), and especially appreciated the spot on coffee refills throughout our meal.

Breakfast special

Eggs benedict

I’m already looking forward to my next visit to Hathaway’s Diner – and not just for the food.

Hathaway’s Diner
13225 – 132 street
(780) 488-5989
Tuesday-Saturday, 7am-4pm, closed Sunday and Monday

Battledish: Voting with your Stomach

On October 5, 2013, Edmonton played host to Battledish, a food competition organized by the local Dishcrawl affiliate. Similar to their namesake events, diners would be able to sample multiple dishes from restaurants within walking distance of one another with one added bonus: they would be able to vote for their favourites. Categories ranged from “best cocktail” to “most delicious”; the balloted nature of the outing was definitely part of the fun.

I was amongst several judges that day, though Mack purchased a ticket so I wouldn’t have to indulge alone. We met the organizers at Beaver Hills House Park where we were handed a map, a ballot, food/drink tickets, and even some food to get us started!

Battledish map

Though being able to provide patrons with a full experience (service, restaurant amenities, etc.)would have benefited participating restaurants the most, it was kind of some establishments to be a part of the day in whatever way possible. This was the case for V Sandwiches, which had provided lemongrass chicken and lemongrass tofu banh mi prepped and ready to take away, as well as a number of cupcake eateries, having supplied boxes of beautifully packaged treats. Had we known about this abundance of food at the start, we would have come prepared with carry out containers.

Cupcakes!

We ended up dropping off some of the food at our condo down the street before setting off on the Battledish journey – definitely one of the benefits of living so close to the action!

With four restaurants to visit that afternoon, we started with the one closest to home – The Burg. In a way, it was the best place to begin, as it set the bar quite low. Not only did it take half an hour to receive our food, but it was also clear the jalapeno sauce had been sitting on the plate for some time.

Braised pork belly and mac and cheese ball

Given The Burg has been inconsistent in the past, it was disappointing that they weren’t able to leave a positive impression at an event meant to stimulate future business.

We were confident that our next stop, Hundred Bar + Kitchen, wouldn’t let us down, and we were right. The restaurant had opened early just for the event, so it made Battledish passholders feel a little like VIPs.

Mack does his best impression of a VIP

Both the cocktail and dish at Hundred were winners in my book. I loved the refreshingly sweet Dude Fizz , and the house-made kimchi in the pork belly sandwich was a spicy, crunchy surprise.

Pork belly sandwich and Dude Fizz

Over at LUX, things were a little busier, no doubt because Alley Kat had set up a beer tasting stop there. Between the flights of beer and the Don Draper-approved Old Fashioned, we weren’t sure we’d make it to the last stop.

Old Fashioned

We eventually did, but only after we tried the ultimate slider, a burger stacked with an onion ring, bacon, and mushrooms, among other things. It was as difficult to eat as you’d imagine, but with a spicy beef patty and a variety of textures, it won my vote for “most delicious” that day.

Ultimate slider

We ended our day at Haweli. If you can believe it, the Indian restaurant was offering a buffet featuring six items. Given the food tickets for the event cost just $5 each, the buffet alone more than made the admission cost worthwhile.

Our fill at Haweli

That said, it was difficult to judge Haweli by comparison, given they offered so many dishes to choose from. The butter chicken was pretty tasty though!

We were more than stuffed by the end of the day – the cupcakes ended up making up most of our supper that night.

The final results came in a few days later, and I’m happy to say my votes weren’t too far off:

Best Cocktail: Pimms Number One Cup, The Burg
Most Authentic: Indian Buffet, Haweli
Most Modern: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar
Most Creative: Mac and Cheese Balls, The Burg
Most Delicious: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar

Thanks to Gemma for having me as one of the judges at the inaugural Battledish, and congratulations on a well-organized event! It looks like the event was such a success, it has spawned Cocktail Wars, taking place this December. Can you think of a better way to kick off your holiday season? Stay tuned.

Check out reviews from my fellow judges Andrea and Cheryl too!

Flavour Journey Restaurant Tour in the North Edge

The public might be more familiar with pub crawls, but I have to say that I much prefer restaurant crawls. I love the idea of exploring multiple establishments on foot, as it usually exposes participants to the neighbourhood as a whole as well. So whether through events like the Red Shoe Crawl or Dishcrawl, I’d encourage you to seek one out!

The North Edge Business Association (representing businesses in the Central McDougall and Queen Mary Park neighbourhoods) had organized several successful restaurant crawls last year, but the timing was never right. Thankfully, this summer, I was finally able to participate in one of the Flavour Journey Restaurant Tours! I convinced my sisters to join me, and along with about twenty other people, sampled three dishes at three different restaurants that night.

Felicia and Amanda

Tickets were just $30, with the profits split equally between the three restaurants. The Business Association covered the other costs (ticketing, marketing, etc.), so the restaurants could focus solely on the food. Given the benefit of increased exposure to the neighbourhood, I wonder why more areas haven’t adopted this tactic.

Regardless, we started out the evening at Caffé Sorrentino. Pedestrian, yes, but by far, the most prepared for the group. Our host for the evening, Chris Hrynyk, graciously welcomed us, and explained that the dish we were about to enjoy has been on the Sorrentino’s menu for thirty six years.

Chris Hrynyk of Caffe Sorrentino

Each batch of veal cannelloni, he tantalized, was simmered with five kilograms of parmesan and seven kilograms of mozzarella. After that introduction, the dish no doubt tasted even more indulgent.

Veal cannelloni

Just before we left, Chris gave us a tour of the kitchens, which double as both prep space and as the venue for their cooking classes. The consummate showman, he made sure to mention that Gordon Ramsay (in town as a part of a charity cooking event) was jealous of the size of their kitchens. In a way, it was unfortunate the subsequent restaurant participants weren’t present for the meal – they could have benefited from learning how to present themselves, and tell a narrative that could be easily shared.

Our second stop a block away was Com Pho 99 (11019 107 Avenue). I’ll be honest – if it weren’t for the restaurant tour, it is doubtful I would have ever stepped foot inside. It doesn’t provide the best first impression, but then again, that’s pretty representative of the neighbourhood as a whole. And in spite of being rough around the edges, Com Pho, like the North Edge, deserves a second look.

All aboard!

Unlike the other two restaurants, Com Pho offered the choice between a rice plate or a vermicelli bowl, topped with grilled chicken, beef and spring rolls. While the options were welcome, it likely slowed the kitchen down a fair bit, as our table wasn’t served until the other table had nearly finished their meals.

Vermicelli bowl (minus the missing spring rolls)

The food itself was pretty good though; Amanda (ever the vermicelli connoisseur) gave it a thumbs up.

Given the unusually large crowd, it was understandable that the kitchen struggled to keep up. That said, hopefully a majority of the diners were willing to overlook the minor hiccups and in the future would consider returning. This is the danger of showcasing small mom-and-pop shops in this way – though it casts a spotlight on restaurants that might fall otherwise under the radar, the business may not be ready or have the capacity to successfully host such an event.

Our third and final stop was Acajutla, a restaurant specializing in Mexican and Salvadorian food. As the evening was running a little late, the kitchen was more than ready for us. Plates were delivered, featuring a flauta, tostada and a pupusa.

Finale at Acajutla

The flauta and tostada shell were a bit overdone, but the pupusa was great, topped with some pickled cabbage and salsa.

In all, it was a great way to spend an evening – trying new restaurants, meeting new people, and learning more about the neighbourhood. The North Edge is considering more tours this fall – check the website for more information!

Brunch and Bop: Culina Muttart and the Slow Flash Mob

Though brunch is always on the “to do” list when we’re on vacation, while we’re at home, it’s hard to motivate ourselves to get out of bed on the weekend! That said, planned in advance this summer, we were actually pleasantly surprised by some of the new-to-us brunch discoveries we made.

The first was Culina Muttart. Located inside one of Edmonton’s year-round tourist destinations, the restaurant now provides locals with a reason to visit the attraction on a more regular basis. The patio was lovely that day, diners enjoying the full sun among the planters and water feature, but we opted instead for a comfortable window seat inside. The only downside of the interior was its north-facing orientation, meaning that the majority of the tables seemed starved for sunlight, but I recognize not much could be done about that.

The menu is small, with just five mains to choose from. And in anti-food blog fashion, Mack, Grandma Male and I all ordered the exact same dish – the classic eggs benedict with honey ham ($15). Given how hungry I was that day, I also added a pastry basket for two ($7).

The basket arrived, still warm and accompanied by room-temperature butter and Jam Lady spread. Mack and Grandma Male both enjoyed the cornbread, while I polished off a delicious cheddar scone. The basket alone would have made for a light and lovely breakfast.

Pastry basket

The waitress then delivered each of us a small bowl of granola, topped with Greek yogurt. Nowhere on the menu was this inclusion listed, and while a welcome addition, had I known in advance, I likely wouldn’t have ordered the pastry basket at all.

Granola bowl

The eggs benedict was nicely presented, garnished with microgreens. We found no quibble with the white wine hollandaise, but were a bit disappointed with the eggs, which were medium as opposed to the requested soft poached. However, we all commented that the sweet honey ham was notable.

Classic eggs benedict

Service was professional, and Mack was satisfied with the number of coffee refills offered throughout our meal. As a whole, the meal was a positive experience, and made me want to return for one of their Thursday night prix-fixe dinners.

After brunch, we decided to cross the river to Louise McKinney Riverfront Park to take in the Slow Flash Mob. An initiative led by Amy Shostak, the one-day festival on July 20, 2013 sought to encourage multi-generational interaction in an underutilized green space.

Zumba lessons

Activities ranged from zumba to improv lessons, storytelling and karaoke. The activities were spread out across the park, making use of the Chinese garden, grassy field and Shumka stage. Things were very well-organized, keeping to the schedule. There was even a free shuttle which transported attendees from the Central Lions Seniors Centre.

Free doughnuts from the Ye Olde Donut Shoppe

It was just unfortunate that it wasn’t better attended. Of course there is always lots to choose from on any summer weekend in Edmonton, but I think some people may have been confused by the name of the event. Had I not read about the festival prior, I probably would have assumed the event encouraged sluggish group dances.

Julie and Birkley from Sugar Swing perform

Mack and I took part in the swing dance lesson led by the Sugar Swing Dance Club, while Grandma Male chatted with some of the others in the audience. It was a fun way to spend part of a sunny summer afternoon!

Swing lessons!

Thanks to Amy and her team for putting on this event!

Culina Muttart
9626 96A Street
(780) 466-1181
Lunch, Monday to Friday, 11am-2pm; Dinner, Thursdays, 5-8:30pm; Brunch, Saturday and Sunday, 10:30am-2:30pm

Giveaway: Red Shoe Crawl 124 Street Tickets!

Although we’re still in the midst of summer, September will be here in no time! Though that might mean back to school for some or (sigh) cooler weather, on the bright side, September will also see the second Red Shoe Crawl of the year take place!

The Red Shoe Crawl is a fundraiser for the Ronald McDonald House of Northern Alberta, and encourages participants to explore businesses on foot using a passport system. Tickets for the event are $40, and typically sell out in advance.

In 2012, the Red Shoe Crawl expanded beyond the Old Strathcona neighbourhood and held a second event in the 124 Street neighbourhood. With interesting boutiques and new cafes and restaurants around every corner, Mack and I really enjoyed sampling our way through the area.

Garlic chili prawns were among our favourite bites last year

This year, confirmed businesses include:

Sample plates at Paddy’s

It’s great to see some new establishments step up to the plate to support this charitable event, along with the returning businesses. Organizers anticipate a total of 16-18 shops and eateries to be a part of the event that day.

The Red Shoe Crawl team were nice enough to allow me to give two tickets away! To enter, all you have to do is leave a comment below with a valid e-mail address that answers the following question:

Which 124 Street area business are you most looking forward to trying or revisiting at the Red Shoe Crawl?

A winner will be chosen randomly from all responses collected before the deadline. The contest closes on August 14, 2013 at 11:59pm. Good luck!

Taste of Edmonton 2013

The Taste of Edmonton festival continued its evolution this year. In 2012, with the addition of trendy food trucks and community-engaging cooking competitions, it was clear Taste not only wanted to capture some of the excitement surrounding well-made street food, but also wanted to take advantage of a growing number of people who were interested in participatory opportunities beyond just eating.

Taste of Edmonton

Along with the debut of a new logo and a much-improved website, the 29th annual Taste of Edmonton also introduced Sip ‘n Savour, which combined elements of culinary lessons, pop-up dinners and specialty markets all under one roof. It was a bold move, one that the organizers should be commended for, as it was far from their status quo. To me, it spoke to the festival’s desire to connect with the rising number of people who appreciate knowing both the producers and chefs behind the food on their plates.

Sip ‘n Savour tent

With events ranging from cooking demonstrations, hands-on workshops, tastings and dinners, there really did seem to be something for everyone seeking refuge from the crowded aisles and beer garden outside. Though I wasn’t able to partake in any of the activities (save for one competition below), I heard from a variety of people that the sessions were perhaps not as well-attended as they could have been. Some of this, no doubt, had to relate to scheduling; afternoon workshops would be difficult for those with standard work hours. But some of the attendance issues might relate to the fact that Taste of Edmonton is still primarily associated with serving up al fresco nibbles and beer. Still, with time, it’s possible that Edmontonians will embrace these additions to the festival – it will be interesting to see what is kept and modified for 2014.

I was fortunate enough to be asked to participate on the judging panel of the Mystery Box Cooking Competition on July 21, 2013. Three teams of three were presented with a basket of ingredients that they then had to incorporate into a dish in an hour’s time. The dish would be judged on taste, wow factor, use of ingredients, originality, temperature and timing.

My fellow judges included food blogger Phil Wilson, Mercer Catering Chef Lindsay Porter and Lia Kurylo of ATCO Blue Flame Kitchen. I had to give huge props to those who stepped up to participate, as I am not an improvisational cook to say the least. I couldn’t live without meal planning, so the idea of having to create something on the fly, under the spotlight glare, terrifies me more than a little bit.

With fellow judges Phil, Lia and Lindsay

The mystery ingredients ended up being yak, gojuchang paste, eggs, duck fat and kale. It was great to see the teams take the time to discuss their approach before jumping in and develop a plan of attack!

Plan for Team E-lemon-ators

Breakfast Television hosts Bridget Ryan and Courtney Theriault kept things lively and upbeat, checking in with contestants and judges throughout the cooking time. It really was a shame that the competition didn’t take place on the Taste main stage as it did in 2012. Tucked away in the Sip ‘n Savour tent meant that most of the spectators sought it out. Without the opportunity to pique the interest of casual passerby, the organizers lost an opportunity to grow the audience even further this year.

Phil chats with Team Perfect

In addition, this venue wasn’t ideal for the competition. It appeared the stage was a bit of an afterthought in itself, with only one row of chairs and a few awkwardly place cocktail tables in front, it was almost as if organizers didn’t plan for a crowd at all. Mack, who was in the audience for some time commented that many people wandered listlessly in front of the competitors as they made their way to the outdoor patio seating. As well, the tent also contained an odd potpourri mix of art and a few vendors including Real Deal Meats, Knifewear and a prepared Indian food product. I had to wonder if they were successful; I would imagine most come to Taste ready to eat, not to buy groceries and tools.

View from the judging table

Back to the competition, at the end of the hour, I took my seat alongside my fellow judges to sample the finished product.

Team Bird was up first. They presented a deep-fried wonton containing gojuchang-marinated yak accompanied by a gojuchang and feta dipping sauce, duck fat potatoes and an egg, fennel and dill salad. Having tenderized the meat, Team Bird was most successful in ensuring the tough meat would still cook up somewhat tender within the allotted time. The rest of the judges were also impressed with the flavour of the dipping sauce.

Team Bird entry

Team Perfect presented a compartmentalized plate, with yak that had been seared in bacon fat, a kale and egg salad, potatoes and bell peppers and onions. The plate was colourful, and made great use of seasonal ingredients, but the meat was still quite tough.

Team Perfect entry

Team E-lemon-ators had by far the most composed dish, a deconstructed yak poutine. Duck fat potatoes were layered with kale, gojuchang-marinated yak, and a fried egg. It was easily the most restaurant-ready plate, but the meat was unfortunately chewy.

Team E-lemon-ators entry

Scoring was not easy! We knew how tough the mystery box element was, and how hard the teams worked! The teams were ultimately separated by just a handful of points.

In the end, Team Bird took home the prize with their creative yak-filled wontons. Congratulations to all of the competitors for taking on the challenge! Check out Andrea’s write-up about her experience in the competition.

Team Bird wins!

After the competition, Mack and I bought $20 worth of tickets for lunch. Perhaps the most noticeable change for festival goers was the addition of smaller portion sizes, and thus, the ability to try more samples for less. Although neither of us were full after eating, we felt satisfied with the variety we had tried for the amount of money we spent, something that hasn’t been true in past years.

The always crowded aisles (probably something that will never change)

It was great to see some of the eye-catching booths (Naanolicious should have been recognized for their display), and vendors like The Lingnan hawking their product to the passing crowd, livening up the atmosphere even further.

Naanolicious

We loved the bulgogi meatballs from Molly’s Eats (tender, with a hint of sweetness) and fellow food truck Smokehouse BBQ’s pig ball (how can you pass up a deep fried pulled pork rice ball?).

Bulgogi meatballs from Molly’s Eats

Pig ball from Smokehouse BBQ

The Alberta bison cannelloni from Bistecca was delicious (though perhaps on that white hot day, not the ideal plate), while Mack knew he couldn’t go wrong with the 2012 fan favourite Tandoori samosa from Guru.

Bison cannelloni from Bistecca

Tandoori samosa from Guru

The smoked mac and cheese from Select wasn’t creamy enough for our liking, while Mercer Tavern’s s’more fritters didn’t quite live up to their name, tasting simply like fried graham cracker crumbs.

Bacon mac and cheese from Select

S’more fritters from Mercer Tavern

This year, Taste of Edmonton saw even higher numbers than 2012. Organizers credit this with the revamped portion sizes and the Sip ‘n Savour tent. With its 30th incarnation next year, it will be interesting to see how Taste of Edmonton pulls out all the stops to celebrate that milestone.

Smashburger lands in Edmonton

The number of fast casual burger restaurants in Edmonton just keeps on growing. On July 3, 2013, the Edmonton area’s first Smashburger franchise opened up in Sherwood Park, joining the likes of Fatburger, Five Guys, Rodeo Burger and The Burger Joint in an increasingly crowded burger scene. In many ways, it’s not surprising – North America’s love affair of the hamburger is well-documented, and with palates leaning more towards fresher alternatives, those offering something a step above drive-thru fare are blossoming. The Sherwood Park location is Canada’s third Smashburger, adding to Alberta’s glut, with two already situated in Calgary.

Mack and I attended the media reception in early July, eager to see how Smashburger would differentiate itself from others. It turns out, Smashburger attempts to distinguish its beef burgers with its proprietary cooking process: meatballs, rolled fresh daily, are “smashed” on the grill to order, a method, they promise, provides a caramelized sear that seals in the patty’s natural juices.

We were invited to order whatever we desired from the menu, a very generous offer. Featuring a number of pre-designed beef and grilled chicken burger creations, salads, and sides, prices ranged from $5.99-$8.49 for burgers. For more creative (or particular) eaters, Smashburger also offers a “create your own” option.

Mack immediately gravitated towards the Edmonton burger (each city features a recipe inspired by regional flavours). In this case, a beef or grilled chicken patty is topped with grilled onions, cheddar, BBQ sauce and a fried egg. A Saskatoon berry shake and poutine are also exclusive to the Canadian menu.

I decided to stick with the Classic Smash, with American cheese, Smash sauce, ketchup, lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion on an egg bun. Mack chose a poutine side, while I chose the Haystack onions.

We were happy to run into Su and Joveena, two of Edmonton’s prolific #yegfood tweeters. Dinner is always better with good company!

Su and Joveena

Portions were generous, and everything was delivered piping hot. Both of us enjoyed our respective burgers, but save my sweet egg bun, I’m not sure I’d be able to identify the burger in a blind taste test. I did appreciate that the Smash sauce was given as a side, which gave me control over how much I wanted to add, but Mack commented how much it reminded him of a certain “special sauce” at a rival quick-service giant.

Edmonton Burger and poutine

The sides, however, left something to be desired. Shoestring fries are not ideal for poutine, as they aren’t as suited to be weighted under the layers of gravy and cheese. My Haystack onions were more like the onion straws used as a textural addition to burgers, instead of the substantial battered and fried rings I’m used to. They were also incredibly salty. I’m sure this is just a personal preference, but I prefer my onion rings whole and not shredded.

Classic Smash and haystack onions

The service that night was over the top, as expected, though I’d be curious to see how it has toned itself down as the staff settle into a more typical rhythm.

Located in Emerald Hills, one of the newer neighbourhoods of Sherwood Park, it was a bit of a shame the Edmonton attendees didn’t decide to carpool before hand. The drive was close to 45 minutes from downtown in rush hour traffic, so it would be doubtful we’d undertake such a commute if we didn’t already have plans in the area. That said, if we were looking for a fast casual burger in Sherwood Park, we wouldn’t mind returning to Smashburger just for their namesake dish. Thanks to the restaurant for the invitation!

Want to give it a try yourself? For a chance to win $25 in Smashburger gift certificates, leave a comment below (with a valid e-mail address) with the name of the burger you’d order off of the local menu. Contest closes on July 26, 2013 at 11:59pm. Winner will be chosen by a random number generator and contacted by e-mail.

EDIT (July 28, 2013): Congratulations to Jessica for winning $25 in Smashburger gift certificates! Thanks to everyone who entered.

Check out the plethora of reviews from other local bloggers: Andrea, Courtenay, Eva, Diane, Karlynn, Lillian, Liv and Phil.

Smashburger
#530, 500 Emerald Drive, Sherwood Park
(780) 410-0999
Hours: 10am-10pm daily

Chef’s Table at Hardware Grill

In my family, June is a time for celebration. My Mum, Dad and I all share June as a birthday month, and of course, Father’s Day is a standard observance. This year, for one of my milestone birthdays, I decided the cumulative festivities could justify the Chef’s Table splurge at the venerable Hardware Grill. As it stands, $100 for five courses at the consistently excellent restaurant is reasonable, but it was still nice to have these special occasions to commemorate with my parents.

The Chef’s Table can accommodate up to six, and like any communal table, we were told that we’d likely be joined by a party of two that night. When we arrived, we noticed that the place settings were set for four. The couple never did end up arriving, but we appreciated the heads up nonetheless.

With my parents

The Chef’s Table is located right inside the kitchen, with a perfect view of Chef Larry Stewart and his crew. I’m sure the staff are immune to it now, but I would feel a little odd being observed, fishbowl-style, as I worked. That said, we really appreciated their candor and unaffected behaviour. As we would find out, unlike the nightmare back room scenarios portrayed on television, Hardware Grill is a pristine example of a well-oiled machine.

Our view of the kitchen

A printed menu laid out the five dishes for the night, which would be served over the course of three and a half hours. The meal was so well paced, we had no idea where the time went (it didn’t mean we finished all of our food, however – most of our entrée and desserts ended up in take-home boxes). And though the food was wonderful, what really set the experience apart was the staff. White linens sometimes equal stiff and awkward interactions, but at Hardware Grill, we are always floored by the service. Beyond gracious and professional, as expected at a fine dining establishment, staff are warm, good-humoured and seem to genuinely enjoy their work.

It was also the little things – for instance, we decided to order two wine pairings to share. Without missing a beat, individual glasses were delivered to each of us, a single pour split between two. Although this wasn’t my first time sharing a wine pairing, it was certainly the first time I’ve encountered the generosity of providing a second glass.

Just as the service was measured and executed perfectly, so too were the kitchen dynamics. Chef Stewart received each order, calling out items calmly. The other chefs would quietly get to work on their components, with Sous Chef Jesse Chalmers periodically updating the ETA of the main protein. Communication was paramount, and in this kitchen, was the cornerstone on an effective team. I wrongly assumed dining at the Chef’s Table would be a noisy affair; in reality, the din of the main dining room was noticeably louder than in the kitchen.

Mack observes the kitchen

The first course was a charming way to start off the meal – a bite-size sandwich layered with brioche, lobster, pancetta, arugula and oven-dried tomato paired with a lobster bisque. The photo is a bit deceiving – a heavy hand in the kitchen dealt the lobster.

Soup ‘n sandwich

The salad of buffalo mozzarella and symphony heirloom tomatoes was simple, but made with good ingredients, including a spike of lemon-scented olive oil, was delicious.

Buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad

Mack especially enjoyed the pasta course of hand-rolled goat cheese tortelloni, their creamy centres stealing the show. For me, it was the underlying corn broth that sung – it was skill that coaxed such fragrance and aroma from the corn.

Goat cheese tortelloni with beech mushrooms in corn broth

By the time we reached the entrée, we were already approaching the point of being uncomfortably full. Interestingly enough, we were encouraged to eat the hickory-smoked quail by hand, not something we would have expected. I ended up gravitating more to the vegetables on the plate, in particular to the caramelized cauliflower, lovingly browned in a way that I will try to replicate at home.

Hickory-smoked quail

After the preceding two courses, I was anticipating a light finish to the dinner. Instead, we were presented with a dense, intensely rich chocolate marquise. Even one half the size would have been too much for me, but the dollop of sour cream on top was curious, lending a tang that did not pair well with the chocolate.

Chocolate marquise

Kudos to the staff of Hardware Grill for a memorable experience. If anything, it reminded me that I shouldn’t let too much time pass between future visits to Edmonton’s most respected restaurant.

Hardware Grill
9698 Jasper Avenue
(780) 423-0969

Patio Seekers: The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald

After work on Friday, I was struck with the immediate urge to seek out a patio. If there was a blessing to be had with our recent spell of wet and wild weather, it would be the carpe diem philosophy with which we now approach sunny days.

Living downtown, Mack and I have no shortage of al fresco options within walking distance. From those best suited to soaking up the sun, people watching, or a quiet escape, there are patios to match every mood. On that day, I wanted to enjoy a green vantage point, so immediately thought of The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald.

The Mac

A less formal option than The Harvest Room, The Confederation Lounge has tried in recent years to offer more casual dishes. I recognize it is a delicate balance, as the Mac would not want to jeopardize their bread and butter clientele who prefer the familiar steak and potatoes fare. Still, it would be nice to see the occasional feature menu which might help attract diners who may not select a restaurant based on its views alone.

We were directed to choose a seat anywhere on the patio, all sheltered under a draped metal canopy. It was about a little more than a third full, with most diners appearing to have transitioned directly from the office to begin their weekend. Though the surrounding vista, in all its lush summer glory was exactly what I was looking for, the nondescript jazz being piped from the speakers behind us was unnecessary. I would have much preferred no deliberate soundtrack, as the comforting lilt of the nearby water fountain was fitting enough for the setting.

Picturesque fountain

Not a surprise, prices were on the steep side, both for libations and food. Mixed drinks were $14, and though the menu touted the inclusion of local ingredients, we were reminded of the fact that these were indeed hotel prices.

Raspberry 75 and Triple-Pepper Caesar

We had no intention of having a full dinner, but were interested in some nibbles. Their one-page menu focused very much on salads, sandwiches, and entrée plates, with only half a dozen truly sharable plate options. We settled on the item most unlike the others, a butter chicken poutine ($20).

Service waivered – although our food arrived quickly, our initial wait for service numbered fifteen minutes. Though our server was friendly and seemed like he was doing his best, it was clear he was being run off his feet. With the Hotel MacDonald’s reputation of being customer-driven, we expected better on this front.

However, the poutine itself was great! In our experience, poutines often receive failing grades because of poorly made fries that can’t stand up to the gravy, resulting in a mash of soggy potatoes. The Confederation Lounge’s fries were delightfully crisp, and remained so all the way through. The tandoori chicken (mostly dark meat, cooked until tender) was sauced in a relatively mild dressing, and was a tasty topping for the fries. Our only minor complaint was that the chicken pieces could have been diced further, as poutine shouldn’t require a knife to eat!

Butter chicken poutine

It’s difficult to think of a patio that allows such wondrous river valley views, but based on their current food menu, I’d likely return just for drinks.

The Confederation Lounge at the Hotel Macdonald
10065 100 Street
(780) 424 5181

Weekend in Calgary: Borgo and Market

Back in March, Mack and I headed to Calgary for the weekend. Though I recapped some of our eats on that road trip, I haven’t yet posted about our suppers.

Borgo Trattoria

Borgo Trattoria is the latest offering from the chef behind Capo, the acclaimed Italian restaurant that has since closed. Though I never had the chance to visit Capo, from what I gather, Borgo would have been its younger, hipper sister, not only because of its atmosphere, but also because of a less traditional menu that emphasizes share plates.

Reservations are only permitted between 5-6:30pm, but we didn’t mind, as it guaranteed us a table. If you aren’t an early eater, be prepared for a wait! The crowd in the lobby started forming halfway through our meal.

The interior was somewhat puzzling, a mash-up between a warm, Italian kitchen (the heart of the dining room was a brightly lit bar) and a nightclub. The techno beats streaming from the speakers didn’t seem to match the décor, and neither did the unnecessary projection of Fashion Television episodes on the wall above our heads. We hoped the food would stand up for itself, as opposed to relying on the sights and sounds to enhance the experience.

Mack at Borgo

We were pleasantly surprised. The arancini rivaled Corso 32’s version, paired with creamy cheese fonduto sauce. It was hot, crispy and simply delectable. The sauteed mushrooms paired with crostini were okay, but it seemed the flavour relied heavily on the truffle oil.

Aranini

Mushroom crostini

The orichette, with broccoletti and smoked bacon, was a bit of a let down. It was missing something, though we did enjoy coming across the pops of bacon.

Orichette with borccoletti and smoked bacon

The highlight of our meal was undoubtedly the veal meatball. It was a dash salty, but all components, from the Sunday sauce, tender meat, and perfectly executed creamy polenta made up a dish that almost had us licking our plates clean.

Veal meatball and polenta

Service was consistent all the way through (dishes arrived lightning fast), until the end, when we waited quite a while to settle our cheque. Our server was doing the best that he could though – it was a packed house by that time.

We enjoyed Borgo as a whole, and now have our go-to dishes if we decide to return in the future.

Market

The next night, we were lured to Market, just two weeks old at the time. It was all over the Calgary blogosphere, benefitting from Executive Chef Geoff Rogers’s debut on the third season of Top Chef Canada in a few weeks time (though it has since been announced that Chef Rogers will be moving to Vancouver to join another TCC alum, Trevor Bird, at Fable Kitchen).

When we arrived, the room was buzzing. We also realized we were the only diners not to receive the memo of the dress code for the evening: four inch heels and miniskirts for the women, and the sneaker-suit jacket combo for men. Needless to say, we felt more than a little out of place, but thankfully, our server put us at ease. Still, it’s worth saying that between the nightclub atmosphere and attire at Borgo and Market, we were glad Edmonton restaurants haven’t picked up on this trend.

Market prides itself not only on sourcing local ingredients, but also on making as much from scratch as possible, including breads, cheese and cured meats. They even have an Urban Cultivator which allows them to maintain an indoor garden year-round. This was mirrored in the décor, with glass terrariums suspended from the ceiling. The rest of the interior was plain, if stark, entirely black and white and devoid of any colour.

The menu, skewed towards small plates, changes often to reflect the seasons, but at that time, emphasized comfort food. As a result, Mack and I couldn’t decide between dishes and ended up with four, much too ambitious given the richness of the items.

For balance, we chose to start with their greens. It was a pretty standard salad, but Mack especially enjoyed the pickled beets, and I loved the inclusion of fresh watercress.

Greens

We had to order the charcuterie board as well, given it would best showcase some of the kitchen’s from-scratch preparations. The air-dried bison, duck bacon and chorizo were great, and the pickled vegetables and house-made mustard were nice touches.

Charcuterie

The potato and onion dish was Mack’s favourite, with melt-away gnocchi, caramelized onions, and pops of crispy fried onions.

Gnocchi

The lamb tart put us over the top. Though I’m not usually a fan of lamb sausage, the Ewe-Nique sausage tasted almost like pork, bursting with flavour. We didn’t initially take to the buttery crust, thinking it didn’t pair quite well with the savoury toppings, but it grew on us.

Lamb tart

I can’t speak to the food since Chef Rogers has moved on, but I’m hoping they retain the philosophy behind their menu, and the food quality that we experienced that night. I’m looking forward to returning to see what seasonal treats are now in store!

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