The Chain Pub: Fionn MacCool’s

Pubs are a dime a dozen in Edmonton. But given their versatility, the popularity of pubs isn’t difficult to understand. Good for a pint after work, a casual bite to eat, for groups large and small, and of course, for those looking to have an evening out, they transition well from day to night. We have our share of pubs downtown, and I’m sure there are more to come. Last week, Mack and I had supper at the most recent addition to our neighbourhood, Fionn MacCool’s, the decision resulting from my need for a drink at the end of a long day, and the fact that it seemed like we’d exhausted all other restaurants within a two-block radius.

Back in October, Fionn MacCool’s replaced the Elephant & Castle in City Centre Mall opposite the movie theatre. The location was in dire need of a makeover, so the change of ownership was a blessing of sorts, even if MacCool’s is nothing more than a franchise of a Toronto-based chain. The interior has been completely refreshed, and though the dark wood accents have been retained, a new bar has been installed, and the space has been opened up to feature even more large tables. Lastly, a makeshift stage has been constructed to host live musical acts on Thursdays and Saturdays. That particular night, we had the option of Olympic replays or a live acoustic duo play the backdrop to our dinner, though like most in the room, it was just for ambiance.

Inside Fionn MacCool’s

They had a decent drink special on ($5.50 for selected pints), but neither of us had particularly high expectations for the food (this was our first visit to MacCool’s, though there is another branch on the south side that has been open for quite some time).

Fish & chips ($16 for two pieces) was disappointing. The batter was more like a hard shell than a fork-tender encasement, but at least it was crispy. The fries (which I had made into a poutine) were less than ideal, dense and unsatisfying – it’s really unfortunate when a pub can’t even get fries right.

Fish & chips with poutine

Mack’s fried haddock sandwich ($15) was advertised on the menu as being topped with lobster – given how much lobster he found (and really, at that price, is it even necessary?), it really was better left off. The fish was thankfully crispy, again, unlike the fries.

Haddock sandwich

Service was fine, friendly and competent. But as a whole, Fionn MacCool’s really didn’t distinguish itself from any of its competitors. But I suppose it really isn’t striving to do that anyway – instead, Fionn MacCool’s aims to appeal to those looking for a generic pub, with basic food and a casual atmosphere. We certainly won’t be frequenting the location, but I’m certain its convenient location will enable its success.

Fionn MacCool’s
10200 102A Avenue (Edmonton City Centre Mall)
(780) 424-4330
Monday – Wednesday, 11am – 1am; Thursday – Saturday, 11am – 2am; Sunday, 11am – 1am

Redefining Canadian Possibilities: North 53

We do our best to dine at new restaurants only after they’ve had at least four to six weeks under their belt, when they’ve had a chance to enhance systems, tighten up the menu, and refine service. Two weeks ago, we overlooked this practice knowing it would be a good opportunity to spend an entire evening in Westmount and neighbouring Glenora – first at North 53 and then, within walking distance, the Royal Alberta Museum.

North 53 has been the most exciting restaurant to open this year for a variety of reasons. They have thrown down the gauntlet in an attempt to redefine what is possible for northern kitchens by committing to using exclusively Canadian ingredients on their food menu (and in the dead of winter, this is no small feat). If that isn’t bold enough, the head chef Ben Staley is just twenty-one years old.

In many ways, the discourse around Chef Staley reminds me of the early fanfare surrounding Chef Daniel Costa just after he opened Corso 32, leading up to his eventual standing as the darling of the Edmonton food scene (when Bar Bricco opens later this month, expect another frenzy of excitement). In a town with few mainstream culinary rockstars, I’m hopeful that this bodes well for independent chefs who should be more recognizable.

The interior is decidedly modern chic, with a combined bar and dining room that highlights the contrasts of polished metal and untreated wood. Though we were the first to arrive that night, by our meal’s end, the restaurant was full.

Interior

We were told that the $100 six-course tasting menu would be the best way to sample the kitchen’s range of fare, but on our first visit, we thought it best to order a la carte. Like many of its peers, North 53 encourages sharing of their small plates. On this visit, we managed to try half a dozen.

But first, we opted for a drink, which, we learned quickly, wasn’t held to the same latitude standards shackling the kitchen. My Atwood was a pleasing way for me to ease into the weekend, sweet and citrusy, but Mack’s Smoke + Oak was the showstopper. Our introduction to North 53’s theatricality, his glass arrived topped with a two-inch slice of charred oak. When lifted, it was evident that the smoke had infused itself into the liquid beneath it. Talk about a way to set the stage.

Drinks

Our starter dish consisted of a variety of carrot preparations (pickled, charred, sous vide and raw) and reminded me very much of Elm Café’s stellar vegetarian course at the Slow Food Canada Gala a few years back. Similarly, it was beautifully presented, a study in textures, and an unexpected way to deliver a typically underwhelming salad course. Our only complaint was that past the impressive layers, there wasn’t much there for $10.

Carrot

The kale dish ($14) was also a pleasant surprise, stuffed inside handmade pasta and topped with hazelnut foam and pecorino. We were told that The Cheesiry was the source of the pecorino, but like all other local suppliers North 53 patronizes (including Heritage Harvest Gardens), they are left unlisted on the menu – hopefully this changes in the future.

Kale

Into the meat courses, it became clear the kitchen’s preferred technique was sous vide. Nearly every plate we sampled employed that method of cooking. The twenty-four hour dandelion root-glazed short rib ($17) was one example where we would have chosen an alternative preparation. Its spongy, springy texture was off-putting, and as a result, our least favourite dish. The accompanying romaine, however, grilled and sprinkled with egg yolk and pecorino, was a revelation. It made me long for summer barbecues and sunshine.

Short rib

The main component of the heritage turkey plate ($20) involved a compound turkey breast that had been cooked sous vide for twelve hours. While the meat was moist, we didn’t find the turkey particularly flavourful. This in contrast to the smoked turkey leg inside the sidelong cabbage roll, which was delicious and had us wanting more.

Heritage turkey

Theatrics returned with the sockeye salmon ($18). Encased in a glass dome piped with juniper smoke, the act of lifting the cover, perfuming the air with a tantalizing scent will no doubt be one of North 53’s most immediate contributions to Edmonton’s food scene – reinventing the art of presentation. At any rate, the crispy line-caught BC salmon was our favourite dish, paired with a bite of sweetness from the macerated tomatoes and shallots, and the melt-in-your-mouth bed of northern beans (prepared sous vide, of course).

Sockeye salmon

The apple dessert ($10) offered a taste of the fruit in three ways – a doughnut, curd and ice cream. The latter, refreshingly tart with a texture closer to sorbet, was the star of the bowl.

Apple

Service was endearing but professional, and for our tastes, perhaps bordered on too formal. Case in point – I recognize the restaurant wanted to keep the dishes independent from one another, but the fact that every tasting plate had to be changed after each course seemed a bit like overkill in a setting that didn’t connote fine dining.

Still, North 53 is a welcome addition to the restaurant scene, ripe with new ideas and enthusiasm about a different approach to sourcing food in Edmonton. I didn’t find myself left wanting for pepper, citrus, or any of the other typical condiments or flavours sourced from warmer climates. It will be interesting to see how their menu develops as the seasons change.

North 53
10240 124 Street
(587) 524-5353
Wednesday-Sunday 5pm-late

Location, Location, Location: State & Main

When it was announced that State & Main was moving into Southgate Centre, I was excited. Not necessarily for the chain itself, but for the fact that the transit hub was in dire need of more sit-down restaurants within walking proximity of the station (I will say that the addition of The Glass Monkey in Lendrum is a recent bonus, though the hike up the busy 111 Street isn’t necessarily pleasant).

With Amanda working later in the evening at the mall on Sunday, it was most convenient for Felicia and I to meet up with her at State & Main so she didn’t have to travel far after her shift.

The restaurant, a part of the Original Joe’s group, angles itself to be the more polished older brother of the family. The fixtures are nicer, the lighting is a little more sexy, and the bar is much more reminiscent of a casual date night than a post-hockey pint. As it happened, the NFL Conference final was streaming on the screens, but most of our fellow diners only seemed to glance up at the TVs in passing.

Oddly enough, I really thought their menu would match the upper-scale aesthetics of the place. Instead, it is virtually identical to its Original Joe’s counterpart. A few dishes differ – a Greek-inspired flatbread at State & Main as opposed to an Indian-inspired flatbread at Original Joe’s, for example – but that’s it. I haven’t been to OJ’s in some time, otherwise, I’d be keen to compare pricing.

At any rate, after we were seated in the half-full lounge, water deposited at the table, we didn’t see our server for a good ten minutes. We were still waiting for Amanda to join us, but neither Felicia or I had eaten lunch that day, and were hoping to snack on an appetizer before our main meal. The server eventually made her way back to our table, and thankfully, both the bar and the kitchen made up for her long pause with haste.

Pink lemonade

The mama’s meatballs ($13) was essentially a deconstructed pizza sub, topped with a generous sprinkling of mozzarella. It definitely hit the spot, alongside the toasted garlic bread.

Mama’s meatballs

I prefer my roast beef on the medium rare side, so the French dip ($14.50) that arrived, with meat well-done and dry, wasn’t my favourite. That said, it would have been immensely easier to eat had it been sliced in half. Like Original Joe’s, State & Main also offers the choice of two sides with most entrees. Unfortunately, only one of them was worth selecting. The honey slaw was fine, but the sweet potato fries were a disappointment, not altogether under-fried but barely crispy.

French dip with honey slaw and sweet potato fries

At some point, a different server started working our section, so we ended the evening with better service than we started with. But I’m not sure that made up for my sub-par experience overall. I’d be willing to give State & Main a second chance, but with much lower expectations on the next round.

State & Main
850, 5015 111 Street (Southgate Centre)
(587) 524-3251
Monday-Friday 11am-2am, Saturday-Sunday 10am-2am

Just Trust the Chefs: The Parlour Kitchen & Bar

I have a lot of respect for the Century Hospitality Group. They are one of the most successful local restaurant companies, reaching a total of eight properties this year, but they don’t rest on their laurels. They were the originators of the “alley cuisine” trend in Edmonton with their back alley Hundred burgers, created a pop-up dining room in a pedway, and this year, reached culinary heights with Corporate Chef Paul Shufelt’s win at the local Gold Medal Plates competition.

As Century Hospitality continues expanding their reach into neighbourhoods like Magrath and soon, Terwillegar, they have not forgotten about the core. Lux and Hundred have become stalwarts in the downtown restaurant scene, and now, a few blocks west, the Parlour Italian Kitchen & Bar offers an additional CHG dining option.

Situated on Capital Boulevard, Parlour was the only storefront on that cold Friday December evening that was drawing any foot traffic (yes, I am discounting Denny’s). In the future, once the Boulevard streetscaping is complete, in addition to the construction of more retail along this signature street, one can only hope this will change.

Parlour

No doubt, Century Hospitality excels in creating trendy, upscale casual environments. Parlour is no different, with a bold, masculine space accented by a vintage-inspired “EAT” fixture (we saw a similar sign at Olympic Provisions in Portland). What sets this dining room apart from the others, however, is the grand mezzanine, which takes advantage of the building’s lofty ceiling, and the curved bar anchored by a tiled pizza oven.

Interior

The menu at Parlour is large, ranging from the requisite sandwiches, pastas, and larger entrees, but with the oven front and centre, it’s no secret that pizza is their focus. Comparisons can be drawn between their pie and the Neapolitan style made popular in Edmonton by Famoso, but Parlour stresses that the deviating tomatoes and cheese they chose were selected because of their superior flavour when compared with their standard Neapolitan counterparts.

We opened our meal with an order of arancini ($12). It was a generous serving, but for me, they were rolled a bit too large, decreasing the ever-important shell-to-rice ratio. That said, the spritz of lemon provided a welcome freshness to the dish.

Arancini

I don’t normally build my own pizzas, typically trusting the tried and true formulas crafted by the kitchen, but on this occasion, I couldn’t get the idea of a meatball pizza out of my head. So on a base of fresh mozzarella, I requested the heritage angus meatballs ($16).

Pizza tiers

I probably should have left the creativity to the chefs, as the delicate base did not seem intended for the weight of such hefty toppings (the meatballs themselves were tasty, and I’m certain well suited to pair with spaghetti).

Heritage angus meatball pizza

The crust, thin but satisfyingly chewy was better served with a lightweight layer. Mack’s order of Gamberi ($17) showcased the dough best, with what should be their signature sauce going forward, a sriracha pesto, and fire roasted garlic prawns that made me rethink my opinion that seafood and pizza don’t mix.

Gamberi pizza

As if we weren’t full enough, we opted for dessert. The tiramisu ($9) was beautifully plated, a modern take on an Italian classic. Cookie crumbs surrounded a bed of espresso-soaked lady fingers, with marscapone gingerly piped on top. The crumbs added a unique texture not normally associated with lush tiramisu – it’s a dish I’d definitely order again.

Tiramisu

Service was friendly throughout the evening, and even as the restaurant filled up, we were never forgotten. Although our server didn’t expect to be busy on that bitterly cold night, we weren’t surprised – diners are interested in what’s next for CHG.

Our parting shot – by the door, a gumball machine had been repurposed to dispense cherry tomatoes. We couldn’t resist taking a photo.

Eat your veggies!

The Parlour Italian Kitchen & Bar
10334 Capital Boulevard
(780) 990-0404
Monday-Saturday 11:30-late, Sunday 4-11pm

Downtown Dining Wealth: Woodwork

When Amanda and I walked into Woodwork for the first time, we both were struck by how much the restaurant reminded us of Toronto. Located in a heritage building, with a serious cocktail menu and a high hipster quotient, the only thing that grounded us in Edmonton was the reality that spaces in Toronto are much more narrow.

Woodwork is a collaboration between Chef Mike Scorgie of the Nomad Food Truck, and Barman Andrew Borley of the Volstead Act. It’s been a long time coming for the restaurant – they celebrated the start of construction with a pig roast pop-up back in April, and after assembling a bar and restaurant from scratch, Woodwork opened its doors in December.

As a downtown resident, it’s always heartening to see a restaurant like Woodwork open up in the neighbourhood. It’s these unique businesses that draw clientele from across the city because their take on food and drink cannot be found anywhere else. Adding to an immediate area already populated with Corso 32 and Tres Carnales, I’m not ashamed to say – keep the dining wealth coming!

I’ve been to Woodwork twice already. Once, on a Sunday in late December with a girlfriend, and more recently, last Friday with my family. Both times it was busy, buzzing with the energy that comes with being the newest kid on the block. Décor was minimal, which further showcases both their impressive bar and open kitchen. Mack also commented that their neon sign, coloured blue, also lends a soft, complementary glow to the entrance.

Stacked bar

Since my first visit, Woodwork has made some changes to help manage the temperature of the space. Seated by the front on both occasions, the installation of a door closure and an overhead heater made a noticeable difference. That said, an L-shaped glass partition would do wonders to direct the chill away from the tables – this is definitely a challenge we face in our winter city!

With their attention to detail in everything from the selection of spirits to their ice-making process, Woodwork is raising the bar with their drinks menu. I appreciated the description under each of their creations, and the range of cocktails available (i.e., a take on the Old Fashioned for Mack and sweeter concoctions for me).

Round one

As found on many on-trend menus, there is the option to order snacks, in addition to the usual smaller and large plates, sides and desserts. With May, we decided to sample the smaller dishes. On vacation detox, I ordered the brassica salad ($13), a tasty combination of kale, charred cauliflower, tomato, aged cheese and a poached egg. I loved the pickled onions, and my only nitpick was for the kale to have been torn into smaller pieces.

Brassica salad

The Nomad baked beans, topped with charred pepper crème fraiche ($11) was a much larger serving than I was expecting. Though I could have used more bread, the beans had a nice sweetness. As a bonus, the leftovers made a great lazy lunch the next day.

Nomad baked beans

May’s smoked chicken drumsticks ($8) was an equally generous serving (classified as a “snack”, after all), and she enjoyed them well enough. The chowder St. Jacques ($13) was her favourite, containing a well-cooked scallop and a cheddar biscuit. The shallow bowl made it more challenging to slurp up every bite, but it was worth it!

Smoked chicken drumsticks

Chowder St. Jacques

With my family, we shared a few sides, including the Saskatchewan yellow grits ($11) with red eye gravy and the mac n’ cheese ($14). The latter was no doubt their most popular truck offering, so we knew it had to make an appearance on their regular menu. In the restaurant, it has been upgraded to a cast-iron pan, piled high with pork crackling. It definitely had more heat than I remembered, but there were favourable comments all around.

Mac n’ cheese

The Toulouse for two ($29) consisted of sausage seasoned only with salt and pepper and Parisienne potatoes in a pork and onion reduction. This was my favourite dish; the kitchen was able to coax great flavour out of what could otherwise be a very basic item.

Toulouse for two

My sister’s confit of pork shoulder ($22) was gone before we knew it, flaked apart with her fork alone. And for someone who doesn’t usually like lentils, she finished all of the yolk-flecked side without complaint.

Confit of pork shoulder

Mack’s hangar steak ($24) was a slight disappointment. Cooked close to well-done (as opposed to the promised medium rare), the steak could have been more charred, and less chewy. He did appreciate the beurre bercy, a butter containing reduced wine and shallots.

Hangar steak

Thankfully, the kitchen wasn’t out of the peanut butter, chocolate and raspberry thang ($9) on my second visit. I’m not sure the presentation was appealing for me (given I’d just eaten the similarly shaped Toulouse), but the whipped peanut butter was delicious. Perhaps a mason jar could be used for serving, to visually denote the layers of flavour?

Peanut butter, chocolate and raspberry thang

Service on both occasions was great, warm and friendly. It was busy throughout the evening, but we were never lost in the shuffle, and did not feel rushed.

This is just the beginning for Woodwork – with a solid menu of food and drinks, I look forward to watching this restaurant evolve with the seasons and become a fixture of the downtown restaurant scene.

Woodwork
10132 100 Street
(780) 757-4100
Monday-Tuesday, Wednesday 11am-12am, Friday 11am-late, Saturday 5pm-late, Sunday 5pm-12am, closed Wednesdays

Alberta Avenue Adventures: Elm Café and Deep Freeze Festival

It’s been some time since Mack and I have had a brunch date, so earlier today, we sought to rectify that. I caught an Elm Café tweet that their Alberta Avenue dining room would be hosting brunch this weekend; given we were heading to the Deep Freeze Festival later anyway, it made sense to start off our day there.

Although the Elm Café dining room doesn’t offer meals on a regular basis, they’re worth looking out for. Our last visit involved a variety of Austrian dumplings, and this time, a straightforward, but satisfying brunch menu.

The expansive windows also illuminated the room well, and its street-level windows lent itself to people watching.

Dining room

Mack and I shared the buttermilk biscuit ($4), warmed and served with stone fruit jam and butter. If we hadn’t agreed to split the order initially, I think we would have wound up fighting over the scraps!

Buttermilk biscuit

The caramel apple French toast ($14) was decidedly even richer with a layer of Irvings bacon. I loved the finishing touch of crisp matchstick apples.

Caramel apple French toast

Mack’s corned beef hash ($14) was made up of some of his favourite things. He found the house-made corned beef particularly tasty, and appreciated the sweetness of the peppers.

Corned beef hash

Allan (who was in the kitchen this morning) was sweet enough to make us an extra treat too.

Mini tarts with yogurt and rhubarb compote

The leisurely brunch was just what we wanted – hopefully we can look forward to more festival meal pairings in the future!

Afterwards, we walked outside to explore the Deep Freeze Festival. Over the years, it has become our favourite winter festival – the range of activities appeal to visitors young and old, and with displays, games, music, and old fashioned outdoor fun, there is no shortage of things to see and do.

Cabane a sucre

Ice carvers at work

The festival organizers did a great job of improving the layout this year, by putting the thaw hut competition and deep freezer races right along 118 Avenue, encouraging even more walk-by traffic.

Dustin Bajer in his thaw hut entry (constructed with Paul Giang)

Deep freezer race!

As in past years as well, I appreciate that the audio of the indoor musical performances are piped outdoors, tying the different spaces together and providing a common soundtrack for the event.

The always popular ice slide

This year’s viking theme was visually prevalent throughout the festival, though I have to say my favourite incarnation was the stunning ice-carved viking ship that functioned as the outdoor concession stand.

Streetpole art

Ice bar

Kids at heart, Mack and I took advantage of the wagon rides, always a great vantage point to admire the neighbourhood’s tree-lined streets.

Beautiful horses

Wagon ride

Congratulations to the organizers for what looks to be another successful year!

Check out Mack’s post on Deep Freeze for a video overview of what to expect!

Austrian Dumpling Night at Elm Cafe

Mack’s Dad was in town last week for work, so we planned to have dinner together on Friday. When a call to one of the newest restaurants in the city yielded no prime time reservations, it was serendipitous for me to come across a tweet about a special supper being held at Elm Café. Allan Suddaby (one of Elm’s chefs), would be preparing an Austrian dumpling dinner at the café’s catering space on 118 Avenue. Though Mack and I have gotten to know Allan over the past few years by co-organizing Eat Alberta, we’ve never had the opportunity to enjoy a coherent meal he’s put together.

We’d been to the space before, but for an informal gathering. It’s been nicely redone by the Elm staff, sleek and modern with sparse enhancements and angled metal chairs.

Dining room

The set four-course menu was a very reasonable $30, not including drinks. We were able to choose from one of three entrees, so between our party, we were able to try every dish!

In a way, it felt like we were eating in Allan’s dining room, being treated to a meal he would prepare for himself at home. His straightforward style, highlighting good ingredients in comforting dishes was the perfect way to warm up on a chilly winter night.

The dinner began with a soup made of beef broth and thin strips of pancake. The pancake was more crepe-like than the fluffy versions served at breakfast, though cut in lengthy pieces, made it difficult for me to eat tastefully.

Frittatensuppe

The salad plate was a combination of several different textures (a big hit with me!) – fresh tomato and cucumber, cabbage with strong notes of fennel and a potato salad sprinkled with dill.

Gemischtersalat

Martin ordered the potato dumplings stuffed with ham and onions, then deep fried. As with the other entrees, it would be hard not to like anything deep fried (or in the case of the other dishes, baked with cheese or fried in butter).

Fleischknodel

We learned later that the bread dumpling was Allan’s personal favourite. He described it to be similar to a savoury bread pudding mixture that is boiled, then sliced and fried in butter. Served alongside a gravy-laden beef goulash, I could see why – they were a tastier accompaniment compared with a typical potato side, absorbing the sauce without losing its form. The celery leaves in the goulash were a beautiful touch.

Serviettenknodel

Mack enjoyed his Austrian mac and cheese, but did comment that he would have liked a side dish similar to how our plates were presented.

Kasespatzle

The final course involved a stewed rhubarb served with a sweet dough and vanilla ice cream. Mack is not usually a fan of desserts, but really took to this one.

Kaiserschmarrn

Our only minor quibble with the meal was the pacing. The kitchen was almost too efficient – the subsequent dishes were brought even before our previous plates were cleared. Four courses was a lot of food to consume in an hour!

It looks like Elm Café will be planning more one-off meals for the space. Follow them on Twitter to yourself apprised of the events. I look forward to attending other special events at this venue!

The Personal Touch: Hathaway’s Diner

Mack and I often deplore the state of brunch in Edmonton – when asked for brunch recommendations, we’re often hard pressed to suggest hometown favourites; it’s much easier for us to defer to our go-to spots in Calgary. That said, after visiting Hathaway’s Diner this summer, we can confidently say that with a few more gems like this one, Edmonton’s brunch scene would be well on its way.

Of course, Hathaway’s Diner is far from new. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve driven past it, given it’s a stone’s throw away from where Mack’s grandparents live. Tucked in a non-descript strip mall inside the neighbourhood of Wellington, it’s definitely not a restaurant likely to be stumbled upon. But that’s what makes it even more special.

Mack at Hathaway’s Diner

On a Saturday morning (Hathaway’s is closed on Sundays), the restaurant was busy, but not full. The interior was charming enough, with checkered floors and a wood counter complete with a built-in pie case. The only hiccup that day was an initial delay in getting our order taken, but after that, the service we received was some of the best we’ve encountered at breakfast in Edmonton.

Pam was the ultimate hostess. She was warm, and spent enough time with each table so diners felt welcomed and at home. Her personal touch, such as telling us that she “married her husband for his pancakes” made the experience much more memorable than most.

The food was great, too. I ordered the breakfast special with sausage ($7.99), and the pancakes lived up to expectations, light and airy with a touch of sweetness. Mack also enjoyed his eggs benedict (served only on Saturdays), and especially appreciated the spot on coffee refills throughout our meal.

Breakfast special

Eggs benedict

I’m already looking forward to my next visit to Hathaway’s Diner – and not just for the food.

Hathaway’s Diner
13225 – 132 street
(780) 488-5989
Tuesday-Saturday, 7am-4pm, closed Sunday and Monday

Battledish: Voting with your Stomach

On October 5, 2013, Edmonton played host to Battledish, a food competition organized by the local Dishcrawl affiliate. Similar to their namesake events, diners would be able to sample multiple dishes from restaurants within walking distance of one another with one added bonus: they would be able to vote for their favourites. Categories ranged from “best cocktail” to “most delicious”; the balloted nature of the outing was definitely part of the fun.

I was amongst several judges that day, though Mack purchased a ticket so I wouldn’t have to indulge alone. We met the organizers at Beaver Hills House Park where we were handed a map, a ballot, food/drink tickets, and even some food to get us started!

Battledish map

Though being able to provide patrons with a full experience (service, restaurant amenities, etc.)would have benefited participating restaurants the most, it was kind of some establishments to be a part of the day in whatever way possible. This was the case for V Sandwiches, which had provided lemongrass chicken and lemongrass tofu banh mi prepped and ready to take away, as well as a number of cupcake eateries, having supplied boxes of beautifully packaged treats. Had we known about this abundance of food at the start, we would have come prepared with carry out containers.

Cupcakes!

We ended up dropping off some of the food at our condo down the street before setting off on the Battledish journey – definitely one of the benefits of living so close to the action!

With four restaurants to visit that afternoon, we started with the one closest to home – The Burg. In a way, it was the best place to begin, as it set the bar quite low. Not only did it take half an hour to receive our food, but it was also clear the jalapeno sauce had been sitting on the plate for some time.

Braised pork belly and mac and cheese ball

Given The Burg has been inconsistent in the past, it was disappointing that they weren’t able to leave a positive impression at an event meant to stimulate future business.

We were confident that our next stop, Hundred Bar + Kitchen, wouldn’t let us down, and we were right. The restaurant had opened early just for the event, so it made Battledish passholders feel a little like VIPs.

Mack does his best impression of a VIP

Both the cocktail and dish at Hundred were winners in my book. I loved the refreshingly sweet Dude Fizz , and the house-made kimchi in the pork belly sandwich was a spicy, crunchy surprise.

Pork belly sandwich and Dude Fizz

Over at LUX, things were a little busier, no doubt because Alley Kat had set up a beer tasting stop there. Between the flights of beer and the Don Draper-approved Old Fashioned, we weren’t sure we’d make it to the last stop.

Old Fashioned

We eventually did, but only after we tried the ultimate slider, a burger stacked with an onion ring, bacon, and mushrooms, among other things. It was as difficult to eat as you’d imagine, but with a spicy beef patty and a variety of textures, it won my vote for “most delicious” that day.

Ultimate slider

We ended our day at Haweli. If you can believe it, the Indian restaurant was offering a buffet featuring six items. Given the food tickets for the event cost just $5 each, the buffet alone more than made the admission cost worthwhile.

Our fill at Haweli

That said, it was difficult to judge Haweli by comparison, given they offered so many dishes to choose from. The butter chicken was pretty tasty though!

We were more than stuffed by the end of the day – the cupcakes ended up making up most of our supper that night.

The final results came in a few days later, and I’m happy to say my votes weren’t too far off:

Best Cocktail: Pimms Number One Cup, The Burg
Most Authentic: Indian Buffet, Haweli
Most Modern: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar
Most Creative: Mac and Cheese Balls, The Burg
Most Delicious: The Ultimate Slider, LUX Steakhouse + Bar

Thanks to Gemma for having me as one of the judges at the inaugural Battledish, and congratulations on a well-organized event! It looks like the event was such a success, it has spawned Cocktail Wars, taking place this December. Can you think of a better way to kick off your holiday season? Stay tuned.

Check out reviews from my fellow judges Andrea and Cheryl too!

Flavour Journey Restaurant Tour in the North Edge

The public might be more familiar with pub crawls, but I have to say that I much prefer restaurant crawls. I love the idea of exploring multiple establishments on foot, as it usually exposes participants to the neighbourhood as a whole as well. So whether through events like the Red Shoe Crawl or Dishcrawl, I’d encourage you to seek one out!

The North Edge Business Association (representing businesses in the Central McDougall and Queen Mary Park neighbourhoods) had organized several successful restaurant crawls last year, but the timing was never right. Thankfully, this summer, I was finally able to participate in one of the Flavour Journey Restaurant Tours! I convinced my sisters to join me, and along with about twenty other people, sampled three dishes at three different restaurants that night.

Felicia and Amanda

Tickets were just $30, with the profits split equally between the three restaurants. The Business Association covered the other costs (ticketing, marketing, etc.), so the restaurants could focus solely on the food. Given the benefit of increased exposure to the neighbourhood, I wonder why more areas haven’t adopted this tactic.

Regardless, we started out the evening at Caffé Sorrentino. Pedestrian, yes, but by far, the most prepared for the group. Our host for the evening, Chris Hrynyk, graciously welcomed us, and explained that the dish we were about to enjoy has been on the Sorrentino’s menu for thirty six years.

Chris Hrynyk of Caffe Sorrentino

Each batch of veal cannelloni, he tantalized, was simmered with five kilograms of parmesan and seven kilograms of mozzarella. After that introduction, the dish no doubt tasted even more indulgent.

Veal cannelloni

Just before we left, Chris gave us a tour of the kitchens, which double as both prep space and as the venue for their cooking classes. The consummate showman, he made sure to mention that Gordon Ramsay (in town as a part of a charity cooking event) was jealous of the size of their kitchens. In a way, it was unfortunate the subsequent restaurant participants weren’t present for the meal – they could have benefited from learning how to present themselves, and tell a narrative that could be easily shared.

Our second stop a block away was Com Pho 99 (11019 107 Avenue). I’ll be honest – if it weren’t for the restaurant tour, it is doubtful I would have ever stepped foot inside. It doesn’t provide the best first impression, but then again, that’s pretty representative of the neighbourhood as a whole. And in spite of being rough around the edges, Com Pho, like the North Edge, deserves a second look.

All aboard!

Unlike the other two restaurants, Com Pho offered the choice between a rice plate or a vermicelli bowl, topped with grilled chicken, beef and spring rolls. While the options were welcome, it likely slowed the kitchen down a fair bit, as our table wasn’t served until the other table had nearly finished their meals.

Vermicelli bowl (minus the missing spring rolls)

The food itself was pretty good though; Amanda (ever the vermicelli connoisseur) gave it a thumbs up.

Given the unusually large crowd, it was understandable that the kitchen struggled to keep up. That said, hopefully a majority of the diners were willing to overlook the minor hiccups and in the future would consider returning. This is the danger of showcasing small mom-and-pop shops in this way – though it casts a spotlight on restaurants that might fall otherwise under the radar, the business may not be ready or have the capacity to successfully host such an event.

Our third and final stop was Acajutla, a restaurant specializing in Mexican and Salvadorian food. As the evening was running a little late, the kitchen was more than ready for us. Plates were delivered, featuring a flauta, tostada and a pupusa.

Finale at Acajutla

The flauta and tostada shell were a bit overdone, but the pupusa was great, topped with some pickled cabbage and salsa.

In all, it was a great way to spend an evening – trying new restaurants, meeting new people, and learning more about the neighbourhood. The North Edge is considering more tours this fall – check the website for more information!

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