More Western than Fusion: Sweet Mango

I had read numerous reviews – all positive – about Sweet Mango (9120 82 Avenue), a new-ish Vietnamese and Thai restaurant located in a south side strip mall. As such, it has been on my list of places to try for some time, and I finally had the opportunity to do so on Saturday.

Driving up to the restaurant, Mack and I were greeted by Sweet Mango’s signage summing up its food philosophy: “A modern Vietnamese fusion dining experience”. As with other local fusion experiments, I was curious to see what their interpretation would be, and as it turned out, it was comparable to Matahari – they offer dishes more accurately described as “Westernized Asian” than “fusion”.

At any rate, my first impressions of the eatery were encouraging. Their equivalent of “Please wait to be seated” was a cute “Please be a patient mango”, complete with an image of the fruit. As well, the interior could have easily been a page out of an IKEA catalogue, with moulded white plastic new-age chairs, a clean modern paint scheme, and stalks of decorative bamboo in vases leaning against the back wall. The large tables (uncommonly sized in a food bracket which typically strives for space conservation over comfort) are perfect for those looking for a place to spread out and study, an observation potentially sanctioned by an advertised 10% discount on food for students with a valid ID – not a bad deal from an off-campus, non-pub establishment.

We were promptly seated, and each provided with a leather-bound book encasing beautifully put-together menu pages, complete with full-color pictures and detailed descriptions of dish options. I was impressed with the variety available, which spanned the usual grilled meat/vegetable rice plates, vermicelli bowls and pho, to more interesting choices like crispy tofu fries, Thai salads, and mango prawns. Though we had resolved to “eat healthier” just a day earlier, that ideal went out the window when we decided to order our respective benchmark dishes for Asian eateries – his being Spring Rolls ($3.75/3) and Ginger Beef ($11.95), mine being Pad Thai ($13.95).

We were hoping the wait for our food wouldn’t be too lengthy, as we had a show to attend immediately following dinner, and though there were only two waitresses covering the entire dining room, we didn’t stay idle for too long. Our appetizer arrived promptly, with a dessert-sized plate for each of us. While perfect for our spring rolls, the plate was much too small to comfortably eat our entrees from. But that was a minor complaint – the spring rolls were good – crisp from being freshly fried, and our two main courses were everything we expected them to be – inoffensive, predictable versions of our favorites. The pad thai was indeed spicy (as we had been warned on the menu), so it was fortuitous that we had the sweet morsels of fried beef and stir-fried vegetables as a tapering heat escape.

Though the dishes they offer, in my opinion, is not rightly described as “fusion”, for the quality and the dining room surroundings, Sweet Mango is a welcome addition to the Asian restaurant scene in Edmonton.

Interior

Menu

Menu page

Spring Rolls

Ginger Beef

Pad Thai

Finished (and yet not impressed)!

Reliable Dim Sum: Golden Rice Bowl

On a chilly Saturday morning, I met up with a few of my workmates at Golden Rice Bowl (5365 Gateway Boulevard NW) for Echo’s dim sum send-off. I was surprised that a few of my colleagues had never had dim sum before, but then again, there are so many world cuisines I haven’t yet experienced that I shouldn’t have thought anything of it.

Arriving just after 10am afforded the luxury of immediate seating (try saying that at noon on a weekend), and food carts that didn’t have to pass through a mass of tables before reaching us. James remarked that it was “safer” to try new and different food with those already familiar with the dishes – I guess I hadn’t really thought of it like that before.

We’ll miss you Echo, but you can be sure that we will certainly call you up if we’re in your neighbourhood!

Yes, I snuck in a Starbucks coffee…

Chicken feet

Great for Sharing: OPM Wok ‘n Cocktail Bar

Annie and I had tried OPM (1820 99 Street) in South Edmonton Common a few weeks after they opened, and like most restaurants that attempted to ride the fusion wave (L’Azia comes to mind as well), we thought it failed miserably.

OPM was the location of Megan’s birthday dinner on Saturday, and a gathering of friends wasn’t a bad reason to give the restaurant another go. By the time Mack and I arrived, quite a sizable group were already seated at one of the long, high tables in the lounge.

Mack and I decided to split two dishes. OPM’s citrus spin on his perennial favorite, the Orange Ginger Beef ($13.49), was a no-brainer, while our second selection was geared toward my personal craving for a noodle of some sort – the ‘Old World’ Chow Mein ($12.49), egg noodles tossed with chicken, bbq pork, black beans and vegetables.

For a busy Saturday night (no reservations, of course), and such a large party, I was pleasantly surprised that our food seemed to take no time at all. Though the plates themselves appeared to be small, the servings turned out to be quite filling. I actually ended up enjoying the ginger beef more, complete with a guilty side of those crunchy fried noodles often found atop “Asian”-style salads. In my opinion, the chow mein was too bland, though Mack enjoyed it well enough.

All in all, I thought their tapas menu functioned quite well to encourage sharing among friends, and as long as you aren’t expecting “authentic” Asian cuisine, the service and decent food doesn’t make for a bad night out.

The rest of the pictures are here.

Really?

Jane & Megan

Mack and I

Orange Ginger Beef

‘Old World” Chow Mein

Happy birthday Megan!

Disappointingly Anti-climactic: NAIT’s Student Showcase Buffet

It must have been my Mum’s enthusiastic reception of NAIT’s Student Showcase Buffet at it’s School of Hospitality on a segment of “What’s Eating Theo” on CityTV that drove me to make a reservation for us last year. When I called in October to inquire about the next available date, I was told that a table on April 11, a wait of a good six months, was the best we could do. Despite the fact that the buffet is only a once-a-week occurrence during the September-to-April school year, I thought such a lengthy wait list was telling of the quality of the food served. As well, the dishes shown in the CityTV segment included kangaroo chops, something rarely seen in the Edmonton market, leading me to believe that the menu was skewered towards the difficult-to-prepare and the exotic. Turns out I was wrong on both counts.

Mack picked me up from work, but we left a little bit later than we should have. By the time we reached the vicinity of NAIT, it was already past our scheduled 11:15am sitting time. We circled around the various lots and parkades for a good fifteen minutes, and finally found some empty spaces near the HP Centre. Note to anyone heading to the buffet, especially those with later seating times – plan to arrive at least 20 minutes before, as available spaces are incredibly hard to come by.

We entered Ernest’s, the School of Hospitality’s restaurant, at nearly 20 to noon. We were told that we had to vacate our table promptly at 12:15, which left us with about half an hour to make the most of the buffet, something we weren’t told when I initially made the reservation. Thankfully, they had seated my parents already, and both my Mum and Dad had filled up one plate each by that point.

We were offered coffee or tea immediately, though later we saw that other patrons were given an additional option of Coke in glass bottles. Sparing no time, Mack and I picked up plates and headed to the salad bar to start our rounds.

We worked out way through platters of cheese, canapes, grilled vegetables, and even a student carving prosciutto from a slab. Most of the meat, seafood and pasta stations were concentrated in the centre, though two were lone tables on the periphery.

Had I been smarter, I would have picked up more to try on the first go-around, but from what I did get to sample, I liked the Moroccan chicken the best. My Mum and Mack preferred the lamb kabobs, while my Dad enjoyed the prime rib roast. I was disappointed that there was nothing “exotic” or even remotely unique on the menu.

In my opinion, the dessert spread was better than the appetizers and mains. An assortment of chocolates, cakes, and tarts greeted us. The warmed cinnamon buns were my favorite, while Mack quite enjoyed his New York-style cheesecake.

I want to place a caveat on this review, as to be fair, a combination of our late-start, parking challenge, time pressure, and the overwhelming expectations created after a six month wait negatively colored our experience of the buffet overall. For those who arrive early and have the opportunity of a more leisurely meal and are well aware of the hour-long time limit, I’m sure a good time can be had. But because of all of the factors above, I can’t honestly say I enjoyed myself that day.

The full set of photos are on Mack’s Flickr site.

Mack and I @ “Nest’s”

My parents

Dining area

Appetizers (with a fat sculpture)
Appetizers (the duck made out of a green apple is too cute!)
Prosciutto station (the student was having a difficult time carving the tough slab of meat)
Mack’s plate
My plate
Part of the dessert section
Beautifully decorated tart
Poached pears
Warm cinammon buns
Mack’s dessert plate
My dessert plate

Irrelevant of the Food: Zuppa

I used to lament often about all of the “lost” restaurant opportunities in high school, having dined more times than I could count at Boston Pizza. Mack would always rebuff my complaints, since a) nothing can be done to change the past, and b) he always believed it was the company held, and not the food, that was paramount. Though I loathe to cede to his wisdom, I must say that he might be right.

I’ve written only in passing about Zuppa (9843 110 Street), the default take-out midday purveyor of choice in the Grandin area. Besides one blissful eat-in lunch of their home-made soup and side of baked pita chips, my other experiences have been less than noteworthy over the years, complete with greasy omelets, weak coffee, and a demonstrated philosophy of quantity over quality with their bland wraps and pastas.

Likely not helped by the lack of choice in our immediate neighbourhood, Echo and I ended up there for lunch on Thursday. We joined a very long line at 11:45, as the three staff members shuffled through the typical business lunch crowd. A quick once-over of their specials and their regular menu convinced us to split an Italian Grill on Focaccia ($6.50) and their famous Warm Cheddar Chicken Caesar Wrap ($8.50).

While Echo paid for our order (thanks again for lunch!), I snagged one of the tables by the window. It seemed that just after she sat down to join me, our food was ready, and was brought to us by the cheerful busperson.

Only included with dine-in orders, a side pasta salad was present on both our plates. As expected, the servings were huge, so much so that I only managed to finish the salad and my half of the panini. Between bites of the crunchy Italian Grill (slightly spicy from the cuts of meat, and held together nicely by gooey, melted cheese), catching up with a friend made me realize that food should fade into the background, and in good company, even lacklustre entrees are somewhat elevated.

I suppose this review reads like a backhanded compliment to Zuppa, and though I don’t mean it in that way exactly, lunch there brought me to the belated epiphany that with all of my focus on food lately, I have tended to forget that who I dine with is just as important as what I am eating.

View from the inside

Menu
Lunchtime line-up
Italian Grill on Focaccia
Warm Cheddar Chicken Caesar Wrap

Still not Impressed: Sorrentino’s Little Italy

Partly because I wanted to check out Zocalo’s flower selection, and partly because I had a Sorrentino’s gift card to use, Mack and I ended up at the Little Italy location of Sorrentino’s (10844 95 Street) on Friday night.

This was my third trip to a Sorrentino’s in the past six months or so (reviews of my other visits are here), and I still can’t figure out how they have managed to develop the reputation they have. While their food is never outright disappointing, I have never been blown away by their service, meals, or ambiance.

The location in Little Italy is the most casual and informal one that I have been to, but was actually a lot smaller than I anticipated. A hearth on one side, a bar tucked in the back corner, aged wood, and checkered red and white table cloths did their job of conveying a homey feel. For a Friday evening however, the restaurant was surprisingly empty. Throughout our meal, just two parties rotated through – I had to wonder if it was even worth it for the Sorrentino’s Group to keep this location open.

At any rate, the current Garlic Festival meant we had additional menu choices (I loved the advertising slogan – “All you need is clove”). Mack ended up ordering the Ravioli Pollo ($17), sliced chicken and ravioli tossed in a lemon pepper garlic cream sauce, while I chose the Mamma’s Lasagna ($14.25) off of the regular menu, hoping it would be just as cheesy as the time I had it at the southside location.

Our plates arrived in no time. Mack enjoyed his pasta, and the definite garlic flavour that came with it. My lasagna, however, wasn’t completely warmed through, and being the cheese monger that I am, I was looking for more than just a token sprinkling of parmesan.

If someone knows what I’m missing about Sorrentino’s, I’m willing to be englightened. But as it stands, I still can’t see the appeal of what has turned out to be just a locally-owned chain of forgettable restaurants.

Interior

All you need is clove!

Ravioli Pollo

Mamma’s Lasagna

Lunch in Light: 4th & Vine

Echo and I stopped for lunch at 4th & Vine Wine Bar & Bistro (11358 104 Avenue) in Oliver Square on Friday, hoping for a quiet place to catch up.

I’d been to 4th & Vine a while back for their Sunday evening “dinner and a movie” event, and found it nice enough, but had always meant to go back. The narrow dining area, with its bank of high windows opposite the bar, was even more gorgeous with the sunlight streaming in on a warm, spring-like day. The restaurant was empty, save one table, so we chose to sit at one of the booths near the door – a table that I thought was perfect for a business meeting if one needed to spread out a bit.

The menu that we received looked slightly different than what appears on the website (I was disappointed with the lack of a gnocci entree), but both Echo and I were intrigued by the Roasted Turkey Breast Sandwich (poached pears, turkey breast and emmenthal on multigrain bread with cranberry dijon), served with either a soup or salad for just $10.

Our food took a little longer than I anticipated (especially given the nearly-empty restaurant), but our cheerful waitress and the venue tempered our wait somewhat. When our sandwich and soup combos arrived, I was surprised to see actual slices of turkey encased within; I had expected sliced deli-meats, so this hearty filling was a nice surprise. The meat was fairly moist, and the sweetness of the cranberry made our sandwich seem like a post-Thanksgiving treat. The pears were perfectly poached, but between the bread and the turkey, the subtle flavour of the fruit was lost. The cream of tomato soup rounded out the meal nicely, though the slightly sour aftertaste was something I couldn’t get used to.

4th & Vine might be too far for those working in the downtown core, but is worth venturing out to if you’re looking for a quietly elegant place to eat.

Interior

Roasted Turkey Breast Sandwich & Cream of Tomato Soup

A Well-Kept Secret: Backstreet Bistro

Always looking for untried lunch spots within walking distance of my workplace, I finally had some time on Thursday to patronize Backstreet Bistro (10055 106 Street).

With a street entrance literally tucked in an alleyway, I can honestly say that I didn’t notice this restaurant, located on the ground floor of the HSBC Tower, until just a few weeks ago when I happened to look to my right while walking east on Jasper Avenue. As I would find out, most of the customers there were regulars who worked in the building, so I wouldn’t be surprised if the existence of the eatery is still something of a best-kept secret.

I arrived at a quarter past eleven, and was greeted by an empty restaurant – I had beaten the rush! The very friendly owner joked about reserving the entire place for me, and encouraged me to take my time with the menu boards, which were hung just above the order counter. Backstreet Bistro serves up breakfast fare weekdays from 7-10am, and lunch at 11, with midday selections of sandwiches, noodle soups, and chef special vermicelli plates, priced between $7-10. After some perusal, I decided to go with the Charbroiled Beef ($7.25).

While waiting for my food, I was able to watch the trickle of patrons come through the door. The rapport the owner had with the majority of the customers reminded me very much of Amy of Chicken for Lunch fame, as he referred to his regulars as “VIPs”, sometimes topping off their orders with a little extra.

My dish arrived in no time, garnished with a sprig of parsley and plated with a surprising amount of care. I had requested a “mild” level of spice, so the amount of hot sauce drizzled over the beef was, in my opinion, closer to full-on “spicy” than anything else. But other than that, I had no complaints – the little bits of charcoal that clung to the flat, pounded slices of beef added a wonderful smoky flavour to the dish, and the pickled carrots, cut into jagged fry-like slices, added an additional crunch and sour bite to the mix.

In the end, I was comfortably full, with a seemingly well-balanced meal that didn’t feel at all greasy. Unfortunately, Backstreet Bistro is only open during the day, but if you’re in the area, be sure to stop in for a good lunch that won’t break the bank.

Exterior

Interior

Menu

Charbroiled Beef and Spring Rolls

Delivered at your own Expense: Dawat

A combination of three things resulted in our decision to order from Dawat on Saturday: 1) I was feeling particularly lazy; 2) I had been craving Indian food for the last week; and 3) Mack was on a spicy-food streak that he didn’t want to break.

I had read positive things about Dawat (granted, from an eat-in experience), but as the advertisement in the 2007/2008 Yellow Pages restaurants section boasted a promise of free delivery for those in the south side, our decision was made.

We called the Dawat located in Little India (9250 34 Avenue), and ordered Butter Chicken (a must), Beef Vindaloo (always spicy), Mixed Vegetables (for token healthiness), and Garlic Naan (when I asked how big the serving size was, I received a response of “Good enough.”). We had some coconut milk in the house, and though more Thai than Indian, my Mum made us some coconut rice to accompany our dishes.

At the end of our order, I was told the total would be $45.99, including tax. Count me surprised – my estimated total from the prices listed in the Restaurant Pages was closer to $37. It turns out the beef and chicken dishes had increased in cost from $11.95 to $14.95, while the vegetables had gone up from $8.95 to $11.95. Though I don’t regret giving their delivery service a try, it would have been cheaper just to take advantage of their in-house buffet.

At any rate, our order was delivered promptly within the 45 to 60 minute range, with all of our food still fairly hot. The containers were smaller than we expected however, especially given the exorbitant price increase over the last year.

The butter chicken was the definite stand-out of the three – tender meat enveloped in a thick, slightly sweet sauce. It was also the least spicy of the dishes, and the only one I could actually taste; after a few bites of the beef vindaloo and mixed vegetables, I was crying for milk, or anything else that would return the sensation into my mouth.

We had enough food left over for another meal at the end of it, and it did satisfy my craving for Indian cuisine, but because of the expense, I still don’t think it was worth it.

Take-out!

Bustling but Bland: Upper Crust Cafe

I met May for brunch at Upper Crust Cafe (10909 86 Avenue) on Saturday morning. I had been there for dinner many years ago, but had been meaning to try their popular Saturday brunch for a while now.

No reservations were permitted, so we made sure to arrive before 11am to hopefully avoid the weekend breakfast crowd. There were quite a few seats when I stepped into the restaurant, and thus I was seated right away. While waiting for May, I surveyed the dining area. I loved the bustling room, with the irresistible chiming of dishes and conversational overtones catching in the rafters. The room, lined with windows allowing for the meek sunshine available that morning to pour through, helped brighten the space, and made for a lovely daytime setting.

After May arrived, we looked over the menu, focusing on the more filling options. What stuck out the most to me were the reasonable prices – none of the plates were over $10. May chose the Tex-Mex Eggs, 2 poached eggs on an English muffin,with spicy salsa, served with hashbrowns and fresh fruit garnish ($9.75), while I opted for one of the three omelette options (potato, green onion, cheese), which was served with multigrain toast and fresh fruit garnish ($9.75).

The service wasn’t notable (it took a while for my coffee to be refilled), but it wasn’t horrible either, especially given the size of the room our server had to cover. That said, the food wasn’t particularly exciting either. May found the salsa rather bland, and the English muffin underneath her eggs too soggy to be enjoyable. My omelette was rather devoid of cheese, and although the potatoes provided the hearty kick that I was looking for, even a side of ketchup would have added some needed “flavour” to my dish.

While I can’t say I won’t be back (the setting and location of Upper Crust make it a convenient meeting place), there are a few other local brunch spots I’d defer to before returning.

Menu
Tex-Mex Eggs
3 Egg Omelette (with some potato peeking out)