Category: restaurant reviews

Dissonant Service: Rush

I didn’t know much about Rush when I chose it to be our Dine-out Calgary dinner choice, except that it was fairly upscale, as someone on Chowhound commented that they were surprised that the restaurant was in the $35 and not $85 tasting bracket. We also found out, after we made our reservation that Rush offers complimentary valet parking after 6pm. As we had chosen a centrally-located hotel, we wouldn’t be utilizing the service, but I’m sure it would help tempt many a diner especially on cold winter nights.

We walked over to Rush, and were right on time for our 7pm reservation. We were immediately greeted by a friendly hostess and a coat check attendant, were seamlessly freed from our jackets and led to a table in the dining room. The hostess asked if I would like to hang my purse, and when I said yes, pulled out a gold-plated purse hook and hung it off a side of the table – a non-essential, but thoughtful touch by the restaurant.

It looked exactly as it did in the photos I had seen on the restaurant’s website, but on closer inspection, was a little less stunning. The visually interesting floor-to-ceiling dividers were a unique addition, but spray-painted gold, seemed tacky. The pastel green chairs (instead of a more monochromatic shade of white or black) also cheapened the décor somewhat. The large wine room, however, chic with clear glass and alluring lighting, was the interior’s bright spot. We also decided that the music that was initially played belonged not in a restaurant of this calibre, but in a department store. Thankfully, towards the end of our meal, the tunes shifted more to the smooth jazz variety (Dave Brubek’s “Take 5” for one).

We were soon greeted by one of our two servers for the evening. He brought the wine and cocktail lists, and asked us if we would like sparkling or still water. In the past in such restaurants, I have found that “still water” translates into “bottled water”, so I responded that we would like tap water. Upon hearing my answer, he launched into a retort that was neither helpful or entirely clear, and mentioned briefly that the water was a “good deal” because it was tap water run through a special process. He was condescending (something that would continue throughout our meal), and missed an opportunity to educate us about how Rush goes above and beyond other establishments. I learned later from the website that the restaurant is the first in Canada to use the Nordaq FRESH water system: “FRESH is ultra pure water where tastes such as soil, clay, chalk and chlorine have been removed using a patented system. According to leading chefs and sommeliers, FRESH enhances the experience of food and wine. As FRESH is bottled on location and is not transported it is also a more environmentally responsible choice.” Needless to say, our lovely introduction to the restaurant was marred by his unexpected rudeness.

The server came back with a clear wine bottle filled with water, and just when I was about to question the fact that we still hadn’t been given food menus, a busperson appeared before us with a tiny plate containing three amuse bouches. The first was beef tataki with garlic puree, the second a beet puree, and the third a savoury shortbread. Of the three, we liked the crispy, warm and cheesy shortbread – what can I say? We’re easy to please.

 

Amuse Bouches

As soon as we’d finished our plates, they were whisked away and food menus were presented to us. It occurred to me then that the restaurant wanted us to be able to fully focus on the amuse bouche and the tone of the meal before being introduced to text distractions. The $35, three-course Dine-Out menu was contained within, and once we realized that entrees ranged from $35 and up, we knew we were getting a really good deal.

We put in our orders with a female server, who assisted us for most of the night. Unlike her counterpart, She was friendly, gracious and demonstrated a sense of humor. When she incorrectly positioned Mack’s entrée, she joked, “Please don’t tell the Chef, or I’ll be beaten again.” I had to wonder why there was such a dissonance between servers.

We both ordered the roast garlic soup (with ham hock and parsley coulis) to start, but deviated our choices for the rest of the meal. I decided on the sous vide filet of Chinook salmon and chocolate tasting for dessert, while Mack opted for the loin of Broek Farms’ Berkshire pork and ice cream trio.

Bread service included three options, only one of which I can remember (multigrain). Our female server did a really good job in painstakingly introducing each dish to us (and all their garnishes), but a detriment to my food blogging tendency is to never write anything down during the meal. I prefer to focus on the experience in the moment, but I know my memory isn’t what it should be, so I apologize for the lost details. The bread was all right, though Mack would have preferred to have eaten the slices warm.

 

Bread service

The garlic soup was good – flavourful, but not too overpowering. The foam layer on top also lightened what could have been a heavy cream concoction.

 

Roast Garlic Soup

The star of the meal was undoubtedly our entrees. I was excited to try the sous vide salmon, and it was exactly what I expected – the fish had adopted a melt-in-your-mouth texture that I doubt could have been achieved any other way. Underneath sat flecks of double-smoked bacon – heaven in every crisp, they almost overshadowed the salmon. My only nitpick about the dish were some of the slightly undercooked potatoes.

 

Filet of Chinook Salmon

Mack really liked his pork, which had also been prepared sous vide. The thick slice of meat (nearly double the size of my salmon) retained its moisture, and contained a healthy amount of what Mack dubbed fat to be “slurped up”. He enjoyed the lentil pairing as well.

 

Berkshire Pork Loin

Dessert included smoked chocolate mousse and chicory and milk chocolate ice cream for me, neither of which were exceptional. Mack’s trio of ice cream yielded one absolute winner though – the raspberry sorbet.

 

Chocolate Tasting

 

Ice Cream Trio

The male server returned to present us with a tiny plate of complimentary sweets to end our meal. Unlike his counterpart, however, he did not stop to describe any of them, and turned to leave as soon as the plate hit the table. Out of the three, the macaron was my favourite.

 

Meal-ending treats

He returned to deliver the bill, and a bag of ribbon-wrapped granola, “for the morning”. It was a considerate gesture, particularly for a party that ordered from the cheaper menu.

 

Granola “for the morning”

All told, Rush provided us with a mostly positive experience – it is evident that the owners and the chef have designed the restaurant with the patron in mind, and have incorporated thoughtful touches and details that elevate Rush above other fine dining establishments. At the same time, had we seen more of the unfortunate server, I may not have been left with the same impression – I hope something is done to correct the inconsistencies in patron relations.

Rush
100, 207 9 Avenue SW
(403) 271-7874
Monday-Friday 11:30am for lunch and 5pm for dinner, Saturday 5pm, closed Sundays

Pancake Diner: Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus

Our first stop on Saturday afternoon upon arriving in Calgary was the Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus. I can’t remember when I first heard of the Haus, but I know it has been on my to-try list for a while now. I love the idea of what is essentially a Dutch “pancake diner” – with over 80 savoury and sweet options on the menu, the Haus cloaks their all-day breakfast menu under the guise of a culinary tradition.

 In a strip mall (I had to wonder if the Haus affected the name of a nearby Remax outlet which was called “Real Estate House”)

We nearly missed the turn into the strip mall housing the pancake institution, but thankfully, I spied the sign before it was too late. We joined a nearly packed house for lunch, though from the looks of it many patrons were there for their first meal of the day. There were quite a number of families with small children in the restaurant as well, and given that the food was relatively safe, I could imagine children would enjoy a visit to the Haus.

The last flap on the menu distinguished the Haus’s pancakes with those typically encountered in Canadian restaurants, and the owner trained with an authentic pannenkoek restaurant in the Netherlands in order to learn the special technique used. The Haus claims to be the onlly establishment of its kind in Canada.

The décor probably hasn’t changed much since the restaurant opened, but despite being dated, the interior felt cozy and comfortable. The bar/cash area also featured a raised shelf displaying various Dutch food items and souvenirs that could be purchased – I was tempted by the syrup-filled waffles, but figured there would be enough calories consumed that weekend to avoid non-essential confections.

Shelf of tempting goods

We perused the menu, and although there were a few non-pancake entrees listed, we knew we had to try the namesake items. Mack immediately went for the bacon, mushroom and cheese version ($10.95), while I decided on the shredded potato, onion and cheese option ($9.95).

We were floored by the plates that arrived. 12 inches of what looked to be a thin, cheese-topped pancake were placed in front of each of us. Cutting into it, we discovered that the bottom of the pancake remained soft and fluffy, while the top was crispy – it provided a nice contrast in texture. The fact that I had crunchy bits of shredded potato and crunchy onions only helped matters. Mack enjoyed his bacon, mushroom and cheese version, though it was a bit on the salty side.

Shredded Potato, Onion and Cheese Pannenkoek

Bacon, Mushroom and Cheese Pannenkoek

My only complaint through our meal was that our water glasses weren’t refilled until prompted, even though we saw the coffee thermos sail by our table on more than one occasion.

Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus was a nice way to start our weekend of eats – a casual, economically-priced restaurant serving up comfort food.

Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus
2439 – 54 Avenue SW
(403) 243-7757
Wednesday – Friday 10am-8pm, Saturday 8am-8pm, Sunday 8am-3pm, closed Mondays and Tuesdays

Brunch with Gassy Jack: Chill Winston

This guest post was written by Mack, an Edmonton-based geek who fancies himself a part-time foodie. You can find him online at his blog, and on Twitter.

My friend Megan and I were without our trip planner extraordinaire (Sharon) for our trip to Vancouver a few weeks ago, so we didn’t have a plan for where to go or what to eat. After much indecision on Sunday morning, we eventually hopped on the bus from UBC and made our way toward Gastown. We wandered around for a bit and eventually decided on Chill Winston for brunch. I had walked past it on previous trips to the area, but had never ventured inside.

chill winstonchill winston

We quickly scanned the menu and decided to stay. The interior definitely fit the description of a “restaurant lounge”. I loved the big, comfy chairs and the nice big windows (you can see the statue of Gassy Jack just across the street). Had Sharon been with us, I know she would have gushed about the exposed brick along inside. The most memorable feature for me was the washrooms, however. Instead of your traditional, completely separated men’s and women’s rooms, chill winston has a big room with a giant tap in the middle, and lots of individual stalls. Unique and kind of interesting.

chill winston

The brunch menu is new apparently, and is described as a “winter brunch menu”. It also points out that Winston only uses eggs from organically-fed free-range chickens. I ordered the Eggs Benedict ($11) – two soft poached eggs and ham on a toasted English muffin topped with citrus tarragon hollandaise. I thought it was really tasty, and combined with the potatoes, it definitely hit the spot.

chill winston

Megan opted for the Ham, Cheese, and Tomato Omelette ($14) – three eggs, grilled ham, tomato concasse, and Gruyere. I expected the omelette to be bigger, but Megan seemed to enjoy it all the same. The fruit was a nice addition to both plates as well, despite being out of season.

We hung around for quite a while after our meals, not in any hurry. The restaurant wasn’t very busy, but it was still nice to not feel rushed – the staff cleared our plates but didn’t try to push us out the door.

If you’re looking for somewhere to stop in Gastown for a drink or something to eat, consider checking out Chill Winston. And for the locals – you can preorder lunch for take-out online! Very cool.

Chill Winston 
3 Alexander Street
Vancouver, BC, V6A 1B2
604.288.9575
open everyday, 11 AM to 1 AM

A La Carte For The Win: Normand’s

Eater is always an entertaining website, but in the weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day, it was even more so. They had dubbed V-Day “Black Saturday”, as many restaurants predictably offered only very expensive prix fixe menus and nothing else, leaving diners at the mercy of establishments. Eater made sure to ridicule some of the more ridiculous Valentine’s Day offers, and also, to help readers spend wisely, posted lists of restaurants that continued to offer their regular menu in the face of “Black Saturday” temptation.

Well, back in Edmonton, we found the same phenomenon – many of our favourite restaurants were guilty of this. While I understand the desire to streamline the kitchen and make service more efficient, do the majority of people really need (or want) a four or five-course meal (especially one priced at upwards of $150)? It seems excessive, and a money-grabbing ploy, and we made sure we weren’t a part of it.

Mack let me choose the restaurant, and I decided to go with the elusive Normand’s (11639A Jasper Avenue NW). The only thing I knew about the restaurant was that they served game, and that they had been a fixture on Jasper Avenue for many years. I had called to make a reservation back in mid-January – at that time, the earliest seating we were offered was 8pm; we found out when we got to the restaurant that they had lined up reservations until 10:30pm that night.

Normand’s

The host was efficient – after taking our coats, he led us up a few stairs to a table in the corner. It gave us a fairly nice view of the tiered space, but was unfortunately placed near the bustling bar where orders were being placed a mile a minute, and near the kitchen where orders were streaming out on a continuous basis.

The interior reminded me of a cross between Le Table de Renoir and Bistro Praha – framed Renoir prints were hung on the stucco walls, and the plaster arches that divided the dining room aged the space at least twenty years. It was nice enough, but Normand’s could use a makeover, or at least an update.

We were given the choice of their regular menu, or a four-course Valentine’s Day special. The latter was tempting, given the decent price point ($54.95 per person for soup, salad, one of three entrees, and chocolate fondue to share), but none of the mains listed caught our eye. So a la carte it was.

As someone always taken by the mushroom soup option, I elected for the wild mushroom cream ($7.50), while the tomato basil soup du jour ($6.75) appealed to Mack. For our main courses, we deviated as we usually do – Mack went straight for the lobster and scallops mornay ($33.95), and I, still on a duck kick, opted for the Lac Brome Roast Duck ($30.95).

I was expecting the soup course to be fairly generous, as the price of a bowl wasn’t cheap, and Normand’s delivered. The cream soup (which is apparently one of the restaurant’s most well-known dishes) was rich, but not overly so. I thought it was better than the thicker puree I tried at Red Ox a few weeks ago, but it was still nothing exceptional. Mack enjoyed his soup, and there was definitely a roast garlic kick to it.

Tomato Basil Soup

Our mains arrived fairly promptly – Normand’s definitely had the air of a well-oiled machine. My dish had a bit of fanfare to it – not content to just serve either breast or leg, I received both in a small pot. Our server transferred the leg onto my plate, and helped me spoon some of the cranberry and orange port wine sauce over top of it. Mack’s mornay, in comparison, was quite a bit smaller, but drenched in a shallot white wine cream sauce, it made up for size with richness.

The duck meat was unfortunately a touch overcooked, but combined with the sweet sauce, was all right to eat (the large serving also meant that I had enough to top off a salad the next day – for whatever reason, the meat tasted better eaten this way). The crispy skin was also a nice treat – I think duck skin is the new bacon.

Lac Brome Roast Duck

Mack thoroughly enjoyed his dish (containing two of his favourite proteins, this wasn’t a surprise), though he said that the scallops tasted better with the thick, creamy sauce than the lobster.

Lobster & Scallops Mornay

I couldn’t decide on dessert, but swayed visually by the table next to us that had opted to share fondue, I thought fondue for two ($13.95) would be an appropriately cheesy way to end the night. Normand’s uses Bernard Callebaut chocolate, so the fondue mixture was decidedly sweet. Paired with the sliced fruit, however, it was perfect. Mack preferred the bananas, while I was a sucker for the strawberries. The toasted slices of almonds were a thoughtful touch on the plate and allowed that extra bit of indulgence.

Chocolate fondue for two

While I wasn’t blown away by our experience at Normand’s, I was very happy that they chose to offer their a la carte menu in the face of Black Saturday. They also managed to provide excellent service in spite of a full house. So although I’m not sure Normand’s would become my standby, it seems like a reliable establishment that isn’t likely to change its menu or its style anytime soon.

Normand’s
11639A Jasper Avenue NW
(780) 482-2600
Monday-Thursday 11:30am-10pm, Friday 11:30am-11:30pm, Saturday 5-11:30pm, Sunday 5-9pm

Edmonton’s Best Kept Secret: the Old Timer’s Cabin

This really isn’t a conventional restaurant review, even though I’ve classed it as such. It falls into that grey area occupied by entrees prepared elsewhere to be heated and eaten at home.

I helped organize a staff development day for my office that took place back in January. I would have loved to go back to Fort Edmonton Park, but they didn’t have a space appropriately-sized for our group, which totaled nearly 90. After some research, we decided upon the Old Timer’s Cabin – central, with ample free parking, a good lunch selection and best of all, economically priced, it seemed like a no-brainer.

The room itself probably functions better as a dinner space than a training room, as the overhead lighting was spotty at best, but the majority of our staff found it a nice reprieve from the office environment. The location of the cabin, and the spring-like weather conditions that day, also permitted a post-lunch stroll in the bordering river valley, which afforded a lovely view of downtown Edmonton.

View from behind the Old Timer’s Cabin

Working with their catering manager was a bit harrowing, as he was definitely easier to communicate with in person as opposed to over the phone, but everything turned out fine in the end. Our lunch that day, made up of soup and build-your-own sandwiches with roasted turkey, roast beef, and plenty of vegetarian patties. The sandwiches were all right (and I am happy to report that the vegetarians and vegans were satisfied), but the soup was the star of the show – touched with the lingering aroma of fresh dill.

In organizing the retreat, I also found out that the Cabin runs a brisk catering and take-home food business – something I had absolutely no idea of before setting foot in the building. Through Sandy’s Food Service, which runs out of the kitchen (Sandy also being the catering manager of the Cabin), they produce orders of cabbage rolls (plain rice, with bacon, or with meat, priced at between $19-22 for a tray of 50) and perogies (cheddar, potato, cottage cheese, onion and sauerkraut varieties, priced at $17-20 for 50) which can be picked up anytime between 9am-5pm on weekdays. Those intending on making large orders should call ahead.

For $19, I was able to buy a frozen tray of 50 handmade cabbage rolls, a price, I realized later, that was identical to what I had paid for the tiny dish of enchiladas I purchased at d’Lish just a few weeks earlier. Of course, being completely frozen through, the cabbage rolls required a little more love in the oven (3 to 3.5 hours to be exact), but with some planning, it required no more effort than any other frozen entrée.

On Sunday afternoon, I took out the tray, covered it in a can of tomato soup and two pats of butter (as I had been directed to do), covered it with the lid, and put it in a 325 degree oven for 3 hours.

Perfectly formed cabbage rolls

I boiled some perogies to go with the cabbage rolls (talk about an easy supper!), and that was it. I remember Sandy saying that cabbage rolls done right have enough flavour on their own to bypass the inclusion of bacon, but I didn’t believe him at the time. After trying their rolls though, I am ready to concede – there was more than enough substance to make up for the lack of meat. The cabbage had softened down in the oven, and combined with the herbed rice and the tomato sauce, had a subtly sweet flavour. I easily consumed eight of them, but was thankful that enough remained for lunch the next day (they reheat very well in the microwave).

Cabbage rolls (with a side of perogies)

The next time I pass by the cabin on the hill, I will remember not only the facility itself, but the wonderful food sold in the basement of the building. I am definitely thinking of stocking at least a tray or two of the cabbage rolls in my freezer – perfect for a lazy dinner or potluck party.

Old Timer’s Cabin
9430 99 Street NW
(780) 465-2139
Pickup hours weekdays from 9am-5pm

An Elegant Brunch: Wildflower Grill

Brunch is my favourite meal – not only does it offer the best things to eat (breakfast foods, in my opinion), but at a time that accommodates sleeping in. I typically prefer my brunches casual, but sometimes, an elegant version is a nice change.

I met May at Wildflower Grill (10009 107 Street) on Sunday for brunch last weekend, and we were both interested to see if their afternoon service would rise to the same level as their superb evening standard. I made a reservation on Open Table, so wasn’t expecting a follow-up call to confirm my reservation, but I received one anyway. As such, I anticipated a busy restaurant.

I entered, greeted by the host, and led to what may be my favourite table in the restaurant – windowside. I was, however, seated directly next to a party of six in a nearly-empty restaurant. Thankfully, the group had already paid their bill, and were on their way out, so May and I would have a relatively quiet corner to catch up.

I put in an order for coffee ($5, unlisted on the menu), with milk and sugar on the side, a little before May arrived. While my server brought me a mug and a French press filled with coffee right away, I had to wait a little for the accompaniments. It turned out they steam the milk on order – a small but thoughtful action that definitely elevated the coffee service above a pedestrian level.

 

Coffee service

After May arrived, we perused the menu together.  Because of my love of their brioche bread, I had to give their Brioche Bread Pudding French Toast ($13) a try. May, a lover of eggs benedict, decided to order their Eggs Benedict Two Ways ($14) – one a red wine poached egg with maple-glazed back bacon and bernaise, and the other a saffron poached egg with chicken breast and roasted red pepper charon.

We didn’t expect bread service at this hour, so were surprised when our server delivered corn bread muffins to start. Naturally sweetened with dried fruit, it was a nice (albeit unnecessary) way to start off our meal. We found though that the muffin negatively impacted our way to finish off our entree.

 

Cornbread Muffins

When our server reappeared with our dishes, he made a joke about having to play “Bob the Builder” – his effort to try to juggle the plate placements to ensure everything fit comfortably on the small tabletop. The plates, as always at Wildflower, were gorgeously assembled, and mine in particular was lovingly garnished with bursts of mango, pineapple, lychee and strawberries. May and I also each had a tiny pot of potato risotto to enjoy – a savoury mixture of perfectly cooked potato and parmesan. The French Toast wasn’t overly sweet, though as someone accustomed to drizzling too much maple syrup over my toast, I did wish for a dash more liquid sugar to add. May enjoyed her dish as well, though preferred the red wine poached egg benedict over the saffron version.

 

Brioche Bread Pudding French Toast

 

Eggs Benedict Two Ways

We were both wholly satisfied with our meal at Wildflower – they consistently deliver good food and exceptional service in a refined atmosphere. They have rapidly become my current favourite in Edmonton’s restaurant scene.

Wildflower Grill
10009 107 Street
(780) 990-1938
Lunch: Monday – Friday 11am-2pm; Dinner: Sunday – Thursday 5-9pm, Friday – Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Sunday 11am-2pm

Edmonton Twestival was a success!

Thanks to everyone who came out to Edmonton Twestival tonight! Mack and I were hoping 50 people would come out, and we came pretty close with a final tally of 45. Best of all, we managed to raise a total of $1000 for charity:water – definitely a great showing from the city for a great cause.

Following the #yeg hashtag live

This was actually my first time at Vintage Lounge (formerly Mangiamos), and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Jenn, the Event Coordinator for Vintage was great – accommodating (allowing us to set up a projector and screen at the front of the space), and made sure to check in with us throughout the night to make sure we were well taken care of.

My Passion of Brazil Cocktail

We ended up ordering some small plates to share, as we didn’t get a chance to have dinner before heading out to set up, and I was pretty happy with the food. The Grilled Cheese Bites ($10), made with provolone, havarti and cheddar were fantastic, and paired with the roasted tomato soup was a comforting bite on a cold day. The Duck Spring Rolls ($14) were a little less successful, probably because I”m used to vermicelli in my spring rolls. The house plum sauce was also a tad too spicy for my taste. When we went to pay our bill, however, it turned out that 5-8pm was happy hour, so all of the food and drink we ordered was actually 50% off – a steal!

Grilled Cheese Bites

Duck Spring Rolls

I think Edmonton Twestival was a great success – thanks to Mack for spearheading the Edmonton event! Thanks also to everyone who donated door prizes: @sassycakes, @transcendcoffee, @bruceclarke, @NAIT, @thechadj, @Out_Inc, @cmscritic, and @tonyratcliffe. I’m not sure which was the most coveted prize, but the car starter and cupcakes seemed pretty popular!

We did our best to try and take photos throughout, but they didn’t turn out as nice as @bruceclarke’s (of Moments in Digital)!

Chatting (photo by momentsindigital)

Mack trying to convert Eric and Amanda to Twitter (photo by momentsindigital)

Waiting for the door prizes to be drawn (photo by momentsindigital)

It was good to see some familiar faces, and some new ones as well. Onto the next Tweetup!

Inexpensive Stopover: Kim Tuyet

I’ve mentioned in the past that an unintended benefit of changing office locations is being able to explore a new culinary neighbourhood. In my current case, that neighbourhood is the nearby Chinatown.

I crossed the street from my usual banh mi place, Nhon Hoa 2 on 97th Street and found myself at Kim Tuyet (10645 97 Street NW), another tiny little Vietnamese sub shop. Unlike Nhon Hoa (and really, more ideal for me, particularly in the winter), Kim Tuyet is equipped with two tables for those wanting to eat in. The glass-topped tables and Ikea-like chairs reminded me of the furnishings at The Dawg Father, though slightly less stable. They did serve their purpose though.

I scrutinized their menu for just a second before deciding on the Beef Sub ($4.25), as they did not have the shredded pork version that I typically order at Nhon Hoa. The friendly lady microwaved a bowl of sliced beef, and layered it, along with pickled carrots, cucumber, and cilantro onto a warmed baguette.

The cucumber unfortunately looked like it had been sitting out for quite some time, but other than that, the sliced sub looked perfectly good to eat. The beef, which had been lovingly slow-roasted, was tender and complemented the fixings quite well. The culmination of flavours – the slightly tangy carrots, savoury beef, and fresh punch of cilantro, was, as usual, satisfyingly tasty.

 

Banh mi with beef

Less than a dollar more than my usual sub at Nhon Hoa, I’d be willing to make the switch, particularly on days when take-out is a less desirable option.

Kim Tuyet
10645 97 Street NW
(780) 990-9600
Monday-Saturday 8:30am-7pm, Sunday 10am-6pm

A Welcome Downtown Additon: Xtreme Asian Fusion

Being the avid diner that I am, when meeting up with friends for lunch, I am usually tasked with choosing the restaurant. Accommodating tastes and budgets are one thing, but the one-hour lunch in particular is always a challenging but fun obstacle to tackle, especially when location, a need for parking, and expediency are factors. Of course, my hunger to try new establishments is also a hurdle, albeit a personal one.

On Thursday, my friend agreed on my pick of Xtreme Asian Fusion (10508 101 Street), which seemed to satisfy all of the criteria. Speed was the only “X” factor (heh), but she and I were willing to take the risk. She picked me up and we parked in a row of free one-hour parking spots, and walked past my old volunteer haunt of the Boyle Street Co-op to reach the front doors of the restaurant. The location might seem a bit intimidating, but it really shouldn’t be a deterrent for anyone thinking about visiting the eatery.

The interior of the restaurant seems to fall in line with so many newly-opened or renovated Asian establishments that toe the line when it comes to minimalist décor and carefully chosen accent pieces. Xtreme’s design touches were light but well-chosen – paper lamps graced the ceiling, while interesting gold and metal wall hangings were attractive without being overbearing.

Interior

While the menu didn’t scream fusion to me, it did have the pan-Asian representation of both Vietnamese and Chinese dishes I’ve come to anticipate from a restaurant trying to appeal to a more Western palate. My friend and I both angled for the exact same Pad Thai dish ($11.95), which contained egg, shrimp, tofu and bean sprouts, among other things.

The service was great throughout – gracious and attentive, though the server who ended up delivering our dishes was definitely a bit of a showboat. As he was an older gentleman, it was actually quite endearing.

In no time at all, our plates arrived, with a smidgen of fanfare by our busperson. I’m not sure why we were floored by this, as there were only two other parties in the restaurant at that time, but we were duly impressed. Our plates were garnished with at least a half cup of chopped peanuts, much to my inner nut lover’s delight, along with quite a generous handful of shrimp. The heat in the dish was nice – contained, but enough spice to elevate the dish above bland. We had more than enough for lunch, and both ended up taking half our portions away with us. Our only complaint was that the noodles were too dry – water ended up being a necessary accompaniment.

Pad Thai

My friend wanted to make the most of our visit and try dessert as well, so we decided to share a plate of deep fried bananas ($4.95). Our final dish arrived, decorated with dollops of whipped cream, a healthy drizzle of chocolate sauce, and bite-sized morsels of the main star. My friend liked it, as it wasn’t overly sweet, and I found the batter nice and light. It did result in a rather sleepy afternoon, but I couldn’t complain.

 

Deep Fried Bananas

I asked our server if they were busy in the evenings, and he said no, something to be expected given the location. At the same time, he was optimistic that with the completion of the Epcor Tower in a few years, business would pick up. I hope Xtreme is able to bridge the tide – their efficiency and solid fare is a welcome sit-down addition to the downtown core.

Xtreme Asian Fusion
10508 101 Street NW
(780) 413-3338
Daily 11am-10pm, except Fridays and Saturdays 11am-11pm

Fork Fest Frenzy: Red Ox Inn

My original plan was to try and snag a Fork Fest reservation at the Red Ox Inn (9420 91 Street NW) for Monday, January 24 (fitting, it seemed, to eat in a restaurant named for this Chinese Zodiac year). But after a particularly maddening day at work on Thursday, I called Mack before entering into a late meeting to see if he could look into what might be available that night. We were lucky enough to obtain the last seating of the day at 8:45pm.

 

Fork Fest!

I had been to Red Ox Inn before, but was hoping that this occasion would bear an entree better suited to my tastes. We entered an absolutely packed restaurant, and were promptly greeted by a server and directed to a table. It turned out we were seated next to the authors of Loosen Your Belt and Eat Around Edmonton, Marriane and Zed – the last in a series of online food writers that have patronized the Red Ox this week (perhaps the restaurant should receive some sort of award for blogger attraction). It’s always nice to meet local culinary counterparts in person – I’m sure it won’t be the last time we run into them!

As I commented in my previous post, the Inn is a tiny, boutique-style restaurant. Space and intimacy are definitely two things they cannot offer though, and between the hardwood floor and tile-like ceiling, the Red Ox ends up having one of the highest sound levels of any restaurant in Edmonton. At the same time, as laughter and conversation echoes through the venue, it’s hard not to loosen up and feel like a part of one large group, dining and enjoying the experience together. Just don’t head to the Red Ox if you’re looking for a quiet evening out.

 

Red Ox Inn interior

We settled in with both the Fork Fest and a la carte menus, though like everyone else in the restaurant, would be ordering from the former only. Mack and I both decided on the puree of wild mushroom with maderia and gruyere-mushroom rye crostini to start, but deviated in choice on the rest of the meal. He chose the fish (seared Arctic char with ratatouille, roast garlic butter sauce and mashed potatoes) as his main, while I opted to stay away from their char and ordered the pork (marinated pork rack chop, Moroccan BBQ sauce, tropical fruit chutney, savoy cabbage and herbed rice) instead.

We aren’t very accustomed to late dinners, so the pacing of the meal didn’t quite match our appetites that evening. Still, we found the service to be attentive and gracious overall, though Mack commented that he could have done without the overemphasized “sir” at the end of seemingly every sentence.

Our first course arrived without a moment to spare, a wide bowl containing a thick grey-brown “paste”, in Mack’s words. My first spoonful of soup was the best, as the flavour somehow seemed to dull over the course of the bowl. The floating crostini was actually the best part, as the puree was made to be eaten with a bread accompaniment, to soak up the savoury goodness. 

 

Puree of Wild Mushroom with Maderia and Gruyere-Mushroom Rye Crostini

Our entrees took a bit longer than we would have liked, though I’m sure being the last table of the night didn’t help. My plate was stacked, my pork chop sitting high atop a bed of rice, vegetables, and garnished with a healthy amount of chutney. The Moroccan BBQ sauce was lovely (even though it tasted slightly like my Mum’s own sweet and sour base), and complimented the juicy, perfectly-cooked pork well. I made sure to soak up the rest of the sauce with my rice!

 

Pork

Mack was also happy with his char, though he said it was a tad over seasoned for his liking. The green beans were well-cooked as well.

 

Arctic Char

Dessert for me that evening was the warm chocolate cake, the same dessert I ordered on my other visit. It was the same as I had remembered – rich and sweet, my only wish was that raspberries were in season to accompany the cake.

 

Warm Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

Mack’s blueberry and white chocolate bread pudding turned out to be better than both of us had expected. Not overly sweet, it appealed to Mack and ended his meal nicely.

 

Blueberry and White Chocolate Bread Pudding with Creme Anglaise

I’m happy I had the opportunity to try a three course meal at the Red Ox for a very reasonable $35 per person. As the server indicated to us that they only had one time slot remaining until next Thursday, we are sure many others will be treated to a great meal as well. Fork Fest runs until January 29, but many of the tables at choice restaurants will likely be booked solid (I would recommend taking a look at availability on Open Table, but calling to see if they have any cancellations if you really are intent on one particular restaurant).

Red Ox Inn
9420 91 Street NW
(780) 465-5727
Tuesday-Sunday 5pm-close, closed Mondays