Category: restaurant reviews

A Well-Oiled Machine: Cactus Club Cafe

After running some errands in the west end, Mack and I converged on Cactus Club Cafe for dinner, spurned on somewhat by gift cards we had on hand. Our first trip since being pampered at their VIP opening, we were ready to see what the restaurant offered on a day-to-day basis.

I was happy to see that the patio was open, but as both the dining room and outdoor seating required at least a fifteen minute wait, we elected instead to wander into the half-full lounge. About a half hour later, the lounge was packed, so we were happy to arrive when we did.

The bellini was calling my name that day, and as I found at the opening, it was refreshing yet deceivingly potent. On a more elegant occasion, I would have ordered the sablefish, but I felt like fries and a sandwich that day. I was eager to sample a full-size version of their BBQ duck clubhouse ($17), which had been my favourite item that night in April. Mack decided on their aptly named The Burger ($14), which also seemed fitting for the lounge setting. As Mack was feeling a bit puckish, we also sprung for the smoked cheddar spinach dip ($11.25) to start.

Bellini

Service was brisk throughout our stay; Cactus Club was rolling like a well-oiled machine. Our appetizer arrived in good time, hot and perfectly cheesy. I typically don’t seek out spinach dips, but this version, packed with grilled chicken, fresh tomatoes, parmesan and mozzarella, took the edge off the sour cream.

Smoked Cheddar Spinach Dip

My duck clubhouse arrived looking rather small, but once I started to devour the sandwich, I realized its richness more than made up for size. It was a bit messy to eat, but the layers of carved duck, pan-fried chicken, and crisped pancetta, sandwiched between pecan fruit bread, were worth it. The fries were hot and crispy, but nothing special.

BBQ Duck Clubhouse

Mack’s burger was even more of a task to eat – the pool of liquid at the bottom of his plate grew to a formidable size by the end. He liked it – a juicy, tender patty, coupled with classic toppings of aged cheddar, sautéed mushrooms, and bacon.

The Burger

As WEM restaurants go, Cactus Club is my new go-to eatery after a day of shopping. I’m just not sure I’d go out of my way to eat there, knowing that a crowd and a car jam would be waiting for me.

Cactus Club Cafe
1946, 8882 170 Street NW
(780) 489-1002

Ballroom Brunch: Sunday Brunch at the Mac

Instead of our usual upscale birthday dinner, I decided to substitute an upscale birthday brunch. The Sunday brunch in the Empire Ballroom at Hotel MacDonald, priced at $48 per person, is undoubtedly the most expensive in the city, a seeming extravagance even in times of excess. I had heard positive things about the buffet from others, however, and decided it was worth the experimental splurge.

Mack and I embraced the opportunity to dress up, though I suspected we might be overdressed. I was right – some patrons were in their weekend finery, while others were clean casual at best, in faded jeans and shorts. While I respect that patrons can choose their level of formality, it just seemed more fitting for this particular setting to aim for elegance. The ballroom, flush with natural light, had an inherent grandness to it, with high, detailed ceilings and numerous chandeliers. I loved the quiet ambiance and the reflective history of the space, acknowledging that the venue has served many significant guests throughout its time.

Empire Ballroom

Our tableside view

When we arrived, we were greeted by a very professional hostess, who gave us a tour of the food selections before showing us to our seat – a mix of hot and cold breakfast and lunch options were available, including carving and omelette stations. A dessert bar was situated in the ballroom itself.

Pastries and salad bar

Cold seafood selections

Dessert bar

Soon after sitting down, our server immediately offered us a cocktail of champagne and fresh orange juice. Much to my surprise, our drink was continually filled up throughout our stay, instead of a one-glass offering, which is what I was expecting. The mimosa was actually quite refreshing, in a way that urged us on to fill up just “one more plate”.

I resisted the urge to try everything (a mistake I often make at buffets, usually too late to enjoy the quality entrees), and instead was initially selective with what I chose. We skipped over the salads and the soup, but were swayed by the flaky pastries to start. The hot breakfast entrees also made an appearance on our first plates, which included corned beef hash, maple sausage, bacon, pancakes and eggs benedict. Our conclusion: it was darn good bacon, and the cinnamon pastry wasn’t bad either.

Mack’s first helping of bacon

Mack’s plate #1

My plate #1

Our second helpings involved a mixture of breakfast and lunch entrees, though Mack focused more on the former, a traditionalist when it comes to his first meal of the day. Of the lunch entrees, which included pasta, chicken, roast beef, lamb and halibut, the oven-roasted halibut was the standout, enveloped in a creamy sauce. The charcuterie and cheese plates were nice additions as well.

Cheese plate

Mack’s plate #2

My plate #2

A custom omelette formed our third course, where anything from shrimp, ham, tomatoes, bell peppers, mushroom and cheese could be thrown in. While the omelettes were good, it was the novelty of selecting ingredients and watching the dish be prepared that made it special.

My mushroom, ham, bell pepper and cheese omelette

Dessert finished us off. It was tough not to take one of each off the dessert table, which appealed to the eyes first. There were warm crepes and chocolate fondue in addition to an array of cold desserts, including sliced fruit, cheesecakes, mousse, and slightly out of place, rainbow Jell-O. Mack tried a slice of the chocolate cheesecake, but found it too rich for his liking. He instead preferred (yes), the martini glass of cubed Jello-O. I had some fruit dipped in the chocolate fondue, but my favourite dessert had to be the maple and white chocolate mousse – light and almost frothy, the mousse just melted in my mouth.

Dessert!

The meal had occurred at such a leisurely pace that, filled to the brim, we were taken aback that two hours had somehow passed. The service was exceptional throughout; unlike some buffets where drink orders and refills are sporadic and inconsistent, the wait staff checked on us continuously, without seeming intrusive or redundant. When we needed an extra hand to help us take a photograph, our server didn’t hesitate to accompany us outside for a quick snapshot on the patio either.

During our meal, we had seen numerous parties take advantage of the glorious day by wandering the grounds just outside the ballroom. We followed in their footsteps, and took in the view of the river valley, as well as the impressive angle of the hotel from behind.

Hotel MacDonald

Me and Mack

We both agreed that while neither of us consumed $48 worth of food that day, we had paid for a quality meal offering countless choices, a fair share of pampering, and a setting fit for royalty. We may not do it again, but it was a great venue to celebrate an occasion with a loved one.

Hotel MacDonald
10065 – 100th Street
(780) 424-5181
Sunday Brunch served from 10am-2pm

Destination Dining: Culina Highlands

Two years ago I celebrated my birthday at Bacon. And while it wasn’t exactly déjà vu, my choice of Culina Highlands this year did naturally allow for some reminiscence.

I have been meaning to make it to Culina Highlands since interviewing proprietor Cindy Lazarenko back in October soon after it opened. Unfortunately, the location isn’t terribly conducive to my usual principle of geographic dining – eating near the site of where I am, or where I have to be. I made an exception this time, and asked a few girlfriends to join me for dinner on a Friday night.

I had made a reservation over the phone (I found out only after that Culina subscribes to Open Table), and received an e-mail reminder of our date two days prior – a good use of technology in my book. When May and I arrived at 6, we were promptly seated at a table in the half-full restaurant.

Though some things had been shifted since my last visit, the space was still impossibly tiny. Our table, situated in the centre of the space, was flush against a wall, while our chairs were nearly touching the party seated behind us – the nimble servers should be commended for being able to navigate the tiny passageway in between. Lack of elbow room aside, I do like the intimacy a small room creates, heightened in Culina by the graphics of Ian Craig, funky light fixtures, and rich wall colours. I also love the bright blue bookshelf by the open kitchen, which were showcasing Jam Lady spreads and Kerstin’s Chocolates’ Chocophilia.

Interior (shot taken in November 2008 – furniture has shifted since then)

Due to a time mix-up, Annie and Janice didn’t arrive until 6:30. The servers were really patient with our table until our entire party arrived, but once we had all been settled with menus, they did let a little too much time pass before inquiring about our order.

I had heard so many good things about the Kalyna Platter ($20) that I couldn’t pass it up; Annie agreed with me. May and Janice decided on that night’s special – PEI mussels in a Thai curry sauce ($20). Setting up too much food for myself, I added the day’s soup ($7) – mushroom with duxelle – as an appetizer.

My soup arrived promptly, with a beautiful floating crostini and garnish. The crunchy, savoury bite was actually my favourite part of the dish, though the soup itself was as soothing as I was hoping for. The soup had a nice base with a kick from something I wasn’t able to identify.

Mushroom Soup with Duxelle

The Kalyna platter contained a deceiving amount of food: two Kubassa halves (pan-fried to a crispy ideal), an assemblage of lazy cabbage rolls (the rice had an aromatic, robust flavour), and four perogies (I am slowly realizing that I can’t distinguish between good and great perogies). Both May and Janice liked their mussel dish (and the toasted baguettes that easily soaked up the broth). I should note that all dishes were plated with care – presentation seemed to be a kitchen mainstay.

Kalyna Platter

PEI Mussels in a Thai Curry Sauce

When we received our bill, we made a double take at the yellow cut-out placed underneath the bowl of mints. Annie realized it was a sheet meant to be burned at altars honoring those that have passed, and not, as she put it, “a Chinese doily.” Though we weren’t offended at their mistaken use of the papers, we thought it best to inform the staff. They said that they would alert management.

“This is not a Chinese doily.”

I was also able to make use of the Original Fare VIP card I picked up a few weeks ago – I applied at their booth at the City Centre Farmer’s Market, and will be getting a gift certificate for 2% back from my Original Fare expenditures at the end of the year. A pretty good deal if you ask me!

We had an enjoyable time at Culina Highlands (though it would be hard not to when the base of our experience was good conversation), and we didn’t encounter anything that would prevent a repeat visit. My only wish is still for nearby attractions – for all the charm in the neighbourhood’s quiet streets, there still isn’t enough of a draw for me to make an exclusive trip for a stand alone meal.

Culina Highlands
6509 112 Avenue
(780) 477-2422
Lunch: Tuesday-Friday, 11am-2pm; Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 5-10pm; Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 10am-2pm

Great Broth: Pho Hoan Pasteur

In our quest to try all of the pho houses in Edmonton, Dickson introduced me to Pho Hoan Pasteur, a small restaurant located in a strip mall across the street from the aviation museum. Over our lunchtime stay, I was surprised at how busy it was on the random weekday – perhaps it wasn’t such a well kept secret as the location seemed to suggest.

The decor was nothing special, and really, with the checkered floor and red booths, the interior could be mistaken for a donair shop or a family-oriented Italian eatery.

Interior

We each ordered variants of our usual beef noodle soup: steak, fatty flank and crunchy (yes, I know it doesn’t make sense, but that’s how it reads on the menu) for Dickson, at $7.25 for a large bowl, and steak and meatballs for me, at $6.35 for a small bowl. We also decided to spring for the green onion cakes ($), and were told that they “take a long time to make” when we ordered them. As we only had an hour for lunch, we wondered what kind of setback the appetizer would bring.

Thankfully, the staff had the prudence to bring us the more timely-to-prepare pho first. The broth was easily some of the best I have ever had in Edmonton – clear and bursting with flavour, the stock had clearly been prepared with care. The meatballs were also notable – sometimes just a protein placeholder, these meatballs had actually been well-seasoned, and did not taste like they had been in the deep freeze for months.

Pho with Steak and Meatballs

Pho with Steak, Fatty Flank and Crunchy

The green onion cakes arrived, and though promising, were ultimately disappointing. Too greasy, and without many green onions to speak of, they weren’t worth the wait.

Green Onion Cakes

The only downside to Pho Hoan Pasteur is that it isn’t within walking distance of my office – there isn’t any way that I can get there without a vehicle within my narrow lunch parameters. Ah well, on to the next challenger!

Pho Hoan Pasteur
11443 Kingsway NW
(780) 761-1989

Sustainable Comfort: Founding Farmers

“Local” and “sustainability” are two of the key buzzwords in the restaurant industry right now, so it wasn’t surprising that Founding Farmers, a fairly new addition to DC’s restaurant scene, seems to live and breathe both of those practices. After reading their mission statement on their website, I was hooked, despite seeing both hit-and-miss reviews on Chowhound:

“The Founding Farmers name represents a combination of ideas: it is a celebration of the land, and the American family farmer; it is a nod to the founding fathers of our country, many of whom owned and farmed land that surrounds Washington, DC; and it is a place where true, sustainably farmed, grown and harvested American foods reminiscent of traditions from across the land are brought to our guests.”

Pig and bird light fixtures

I had made a reservation for us about a week prior through Open Table, and boy, was I glad I did. On a random Wednesday, the wait for a party of two was 35 minutes (recession, what recession?). We should have asked if any tables were available on the first floor, as it was bordered by two sides of windows, and sharing the space with a large bar made the dining area a little more casual. Upstairs, where we were led, was more formal: window shades, casual-cool dark wood furniture, and rounded banquets with some semblance of privacy. There were some rustic touches sprinkled throughout though – a shelf of large coloured jars of fruit and vegetables stood in one corner, while the same tungsten-baring light bulbs as seen in Proof hung from the ceiling. And too cute – water served from old-fashioned milk jars. Our table was known as the “communal table”, a beautifully lacquered piece formed from a section of a single trunk. Though Mack initially resented our placement, when a large, friendly group joined us later that night, we did end up interacting with them throughout our meal, as they asked us for dish recommendations.

Our communal table

The menu was massive, filled with crowd-pleasing comfort food favourites, from chicken pot pie to pot roast to shrimp and grits. Dishes were a little on the pricey side, but understandable given their sourcing of local ingredients. Based on the Chowhound chatter, the baby cheeseburgers (6 for $14) were non-negotiable, and to round off my beef intake for the week, I decided on the farmer’s meatloaf ($16) – it wasn’t until later that night that I realized how much ground beef I had consumed that day. Mack, a sucker for macaroni and cheese, gave their version a spin, which involved handmade macaroni and lobster and gouda-gruyere cheese ($25). Founding Farmers does not serve a complimentary bread course, following in the tail wind of other upscale eateries in the U.S. that charge for a then-necessarily high-quality bread basket. Thankfully, we didn’t have to wait long for our appetizer plate, with six mini burgers and (a bonus) fries. They were easily the best sliders I’ve ever had – with soft house-made bread that cushioned the patty. The ground-to-order beef had been cooked to medium (slightly pink inside), and the crunch of the sour pickle inside was a nice touch. The fries were great, though slightly too salty.

Baby Cheeseburgers

When our entrees arrived, we knew finishing our meal would be difficult. My thick slice of meatloaf, made with ground beef and mushrooms, was accompanied by two gravies, which helped bring out some of the inherent flavour in the meat. Though the dish itself was very good, by the end of my serving, it became a little redundant.

Farmer’s Meatloaf with Yukon Gold Potatoes and Today’s Vegetable

Mack found the kitchen to have been quite generous with the lobster, but faced a similar obstacle with a very rich dish. He commented that the cheese was a bit like cheese whiz, actually, and was disappointed that there wasn’t any crispy, melted excess on top.

Lobster Macaroni and Cheese

It is worth noting that service was both hit and miss that night – our server was quite eager and attentive, right up until we put in our order. It took us a while to finally get a needed water refill.

As a whole, I applaud Founding Farmers for the concept behind the restaurant, and their commitment to sourcing quality, local ingredients. Something was missing for me, and though I can’t put my finger on it, I know Mack disagrees with me – it was his favourite restaurant experience in DC.

Founding Farmers
1924 Pennsylvania Ave NW
Washington, DC
(202) 822-8783

Capitol Escape: Jimmy T’s Place

While Mack and I consistently bemoan the lack of diners in Edmonton, we take every opportunity to patronize neighbourhood diners when out of town.

Jimmy T’s Place was such a diner, located just ten minutes away from the hustle and bustle of Capitol Hill, it afforded a temporary refuge from fellow tourists and busyness.

Jimmy T’s Place

A Fodor’s recommendation, like Teaism, I was drawn to this restaurant primarily because of the price, but also for its diner billing. I loved the interior, which appeared as if it hadn’t been retouched since it opened – pipes were exposed, paint was chipped, seat cushions were ripped – and yet, combined with the vaulted metallic ceiling and counter service, it looked like it had been lived-in, endearingly cozy.

Interior

Unfortunately, the food didn’t quite live up to our affection for the décor. Mack’s eggs benedict (they serve all-day breakfast), was serviceable, with a crisp English muffin base, but the potatoes were sorely undercooked. My burger was moist, but really nothing special. Our biggest beef was actually how long we had to wait for the food – we watched as several walk-ins received their orders long before ours had even reached the grill.

Eggs Benedict

Cheeseburger and Fries

I’d recommend Jimmy T’s for the escape, but not for the food.

Jimmy T’s Place
501 E Capitol St SE
Washington, DC
(202) 546-3646

Fresh Inspiration: Eatery at the ARTery

After some leisurely window shopping at City Centre Mall, I wandered over to the Eatery at the ARTery (9535 Jasper Avenue) for lunch. As it was an absolutely gorgeous day, the stroll to the ARTery provided an opportune moment to take in our scenic river valley.

Edmonton in bloom

I had heard about the Eatery at the ARTery  in early May before the City Centre Market opened for business. Julianna Mimande, formerly of Bacon, was heading up this new weekly endeavour, which would serve lunch from 12-4pm every Saturday, using fresh ingredients picked up from the farmers’ market that morning. It’s the kind of thing locovores should embrace, and I applaud Julianna’s initiative that not only celebrates Alberta’s bounty, but also practices the idea of inspiration and creativity inherent in fresh ingredients. My only doubt was about the timing of the lunch – it is almost set up best for those who don’t make a trip through the market, unless they either lived close enough to drop off the goods afterwards (as I did), have a car to store their purchases in, or don’t mind going later in the day when popular goods may already be sold out.

The ARTery

Through the bright red door, I encountered a blackboard menu that listed the day’s creation: an omelette made with Arnold’s Eggs, Edgar Farms asparagus, and Sylvan Star aged gouda, accompanied by a Greens Eggs and Ham salad and baby potatoes ($12) – a pretty great lunch, if you ask me. Two types of dessert were also available – Portuguese egg tarts ($2) and chocolate mousse ($5). Coffee was $2, with (wait for it) a shot of Baileys for an additional $3 – you have to love a place that serves coffee with Baileys at noon.

Menu board

I paid for my order, passed it off to Julianna, and was told that my lunch would be brought to me. I wondered how the kitchen managed when it was busy, as it looked like it could barely accommodate two. I headed into the seating area, where I found a guitarist performing on stage, surrounded by artwork and just a handful of tables.

Afternoon entertainment – Mo Lefever

Artwork at the ARTery

This was my first time at the ARTery, though I knew that the space hosted craft fairs and musical performances, among other things. I took a seat at the bar along the side wall, grateful for the breeze passing through the slightly ajar emergency exit, and settled in with my magazine.

I didn’t even get through an article when my food was brought to me, accompanied by two slices of toast. I remember Liane’s comment that the meal that she had was rather light – perhaps Julianna took that into consideration this week, as I was quite satisfied with the portion size. The omelette was a dense yellow colour, wrapped around still-crisp stalks of asparagus. The kitchen was a little light-handed with the cheese, but the richness of the eggs helped offset that deficiency somewhat. The toast was also notable – I found out later the bread was from the Italian Centre.

Asparagus and gouda omelette with salad and potatoes

It was a relaxing, pleasing lunch, and the thought of a menu that reflects the season will keep me coming back.

The Eatery at the ARTery
9535 Jasper Avenue
(780) 441-6966
Lunch served every Saturday, 12-4pm

Almost Al Fresco: Cosmos Greek Taverna

Greek cuisine is one of Mack’s favourites, so for his last dinner before his trip to London, I took him to Cosmos Greek Taverna on High Street.

Upon walking up to the restaurant, I was glad the venue allowed us to take advantage of a semi-summer day. Cosmos had removed the windows from the hinges, creating a patio feel in the front dining area, and between the murals on the walls and the cool breeze, the setting transported us to a locale far from Edmonton. The only downside to dining almost al-fresco was, of course, the layer of dirt on the table and plates (but nothing a quick dusting couldn’t fix).

Mack at Cosmos

The entree selections were fairly brief, though we could have built a meal out of tapas (and in hindsight, we probably should have). We opted to share an appetizer of homus and pita ($6.50), while Mack ordered the gyros with pita ($17.50) and I the chicken souvlaki ($21.50).

I should make mention, however brief, of the bread course – a small loaf of bread, warmed! Mack and I both love warm bread, and think it really should be a restaurant standard.

Happy Camel supplies our favourite hummus in the city, so we were eager to see how Cosmos’ version would measure up. Mack liked the consistency, but we both thought there was something lacking – perhaps they could have kicked up the garlic flavour a notch? I did like the fact that the pitas had been warmed and slightly toasted though – it made the dish seem more like a treat.

Homus and Pita

As expected, our entrees were enormous. Had my plate not been served with a side of potatoes and vegetables, I likely still would not have been able to finish my dinner. Mack enjoyed the gyros, but also found the portion size overwhelming. As for the souvlaki, again, the toasted pita underneath the chicken kabobs was a nice touch, but I didn’t care much for the potatoes or the overcooked and greasy vegetable medley.

Gyros

 

Chicken Souvlaki

Service as a whole was all right, but nothing exceptional. Mack noted at the end of the night that while he does enjoy Greek food, he always finds the prices in restaurants a tad expensive and the portion sizes too large. He suggested that Greek establishments should consider offering smaller versions of their popular dishes – not a bad idea, particularly in the current climate.

Cosmos Greek Taverna
10810 124 Street (2 other locations)
(780) 455-7474
4pm-12am daily

Piece-meal: Proof

When the trend of “small plates” began appearing in Edmonton, I was a little sceptical. Like many, I was used to the standard appetizer/entree/dessert meal (at least at restaurants serving Western fare), and I was resistant to any change deviating from that. After my experience at Proof, however, I can tell you that I have wholeheartedly embraced this new way of eating out.

My discovery of Proof came by way of DC Foodies, a website covering local restaurants, food events, and farmers’ markets, among other things. Proof was listed as one of the blog authors’ favourites, and as soon as I read that the restaurant had charcuterie on the menu, I slotted it into our plan, making a reservation using Open Table (a website subscribed to by most non-fast food DC eateries, it seemed).

When we arrived at 6:30, there were  only a few tables free of patrons. We learned very quickly that the dress code (though listed as “casual” on their Open Table profile), was elevated by the naturally dressy after work crowd, most of which were wearing suits and standard business wear.

The interior was elegant but understated – rich woods, metallic accent mirrors, dangling incandescent light bulbs, a beautiful glass wine case, and directly in my sight line, a charcuterie prep station. I wasn’t a fan of the woven chairs, though they did serve the purpose of ensuring the decor wasn’t too formal.

Interior

The name of the restaurant is derived from a quote attributed to Benjamin Franklin: “Wine is proof that God loves us.” So although the food was our initial draw, we were more than happy to sample Proof’s wine program, with 2, 4, and 8oz. pours of over 40 types of wine available, and a novel of selections by the bottle. Mack and I also agreed that we should keep better track of the wines we liked, in an effort to be more systematic about our vino exploration (of course, our favourites are noted in Mack’s moleskine and not mine…).

To put together our cheese and charcuterie platter, we asked our server for guidance, who was great at explaining the virtues of the various meats and cheeses. And while he and the rest of the service at Proof was assembly-line efficient (wines would instantaneously appear), the service was almost too formal for us to loosen up and enjoy ourselves – my only (admittedly minor) complaint about our experience.

We ended up with two meats – speck ($9), similar to a smoked prosciutto, and saucisson de paris ($8), a sausage – and three cheeses – la serena, a sheep’s milk cheese from spain, mt. tam from California, and cabot clothbound cheddar from Vermont ($13).

The bread course was a welcome change from the standard bread and butter rolls – baked pita-like strips were served with a mixture of sour cream, olive oil and chives. I can’t say I cared for the concoction, but I appreciated the fact that they wanted to do something different.

Bread service at Proof

Our starter was best described by Mack, who called it “adult cheese and crackers”. Heightened finger food or not, it was a lovely sight to behold – the cheeses were rustic in presentation, on a wooden platter served with fig and nut bread, honey, applesauce and dried figs, while the shaved meats were accompanied by toasted baguettes (and not an olive in sight!). We had a wonderful time experimenting with flavours – one of my favourite combinations was the subtly sweet fig bread with the creamy sheep’s cheese, salty prosciutto, and a dollop of honey for balance. Mack really enjoyed the cheddar, aged to the point where it had the texture and sharpness of parmesan. I think the best thing about the platter, however, was having to slow down and take time to eat it (during that time, we ran through about 3 2 oz. pours of wine each) – something that helped elevate our meal to an experience.

Cheese Platter

 

Charcuterie

The menu directly encouraged patrons to share small plates, and since we had grazed over the platter to start anyway, we figured we might as well carry the sentiment over into the rest of our dinner as well. We decided to split three dishes: crispy pork confit ($13), spicy little meatballs ($10),and sauteed potato gnocchi with ramps and asparagus ($14).

Though service had been brisk thus far, we both weren’t prepared at the speed at which the dishes appeared all at the same time– the chef must have been right on top of his kitchen staff. I was also happy to see that the plating was appealing without being over-the-top.

I expected more from the pork confit, though it arrived exactly as billed – a soy-glazed slice of pork, skin crisp above a layer of fat, its crunch mirrored somewhat in the bed of jicima salad underneath. The level of spice to enhance the sweetness was perfect, but we both agreed there was something missing.

Crispy Pork Confit

Mack loved the meatballs (cooked so the meat was still a touch pink), and paired with goat cheese agnolotti, the dish was a bit like a gourmet edition of pasta and meatballs.

Spicy Little Meatballs

The gnocchi was by far my favourite – not the gummy dumplings I’ve found in my dining past, the gnocchi virtually melted in my mouth. Though the vegetables were appreciated, I probably could have done without them in favour of more gnocchi.

Sauteed Gnocchi with Ramps and Asparagus

If I ever came back to DC, I’d make a beeline back to Proof.

Proof
775 G St NW
Washington, DC
(202) 737-7663

A Business Lunch Favourite: Teaism

Teaism is a DC chain known primarily for its tea, but also its economical yet tasty Japanese food. I can tell you it was the small expense that attracted me to it and made me note it down after seeing a brief write-up in Fodor’s. A sticker on the door noted its inclusion in Rachael Ray’s 40 Dollars a Day program on the Food Network, so I knew we had come to the right place.

Our visit was timed perfectly – we hit the restaurant just before the midday crowd arrived (the line inched out the door soon after we sat down), but were still privy to witness the bustling business they experience at lunch. The interior was warm – medium-tone wood counters wrapped around one side of the room, which displayed Asian-inspired art and calligraphy. The restaurant also benefited from a generous amount of natural light, much of it also being enjoyed by windowsill plants.

Iced Tea (Mack found it all right – refreshing, and not overly sweet)

The menu actually waivered more from their Japanese billing than I expected, offering some pan-Asian favourites such as Thai chicken curry, as well as some Western dishes, like sandwiches and burgers. Most entrees were $8-9, which we thought was fairly reasonable given its proximity to high traffic attractions (a guide called eat. shop. washington dc also mentioned their exceptional salty-sweet cookies – the site is worth taking a look for solid recommendations for DC and other major American cities). Orders were taken and picked up at the counter, which although worked out all right, caused some bottlenecking at the front of the restaurant.

My eyes were immediately drawn to the chicken udon soup ($8.50), primarily because of a recipe I read on the plane. The broth was a touch salty, but the consistency of the udon was perfect. I was also satisfied with the amount of chicken and vegetables included, which rounded out the meal nicely.

Chicken Udon Soup

Mack ordered a chicken bento box ($8.75), which contained fried chicken, rice, sweet potatoes and cucumber-ginger salad. He remarked that the meat was on the dry side, although the creamy potatoes made up for it somewhat.

Chicken Bento Box

While I’m not sure Teaism is unique enough to recommend to travellers (at least not this non-teahouse outpost we visited), it was a sleek restaurant that provided the needed reprieve from the sun and schoolchildren outside.

Teaism
400 8th Street (and other locations)
Washington, DC
(202) 638-6010