Culinary Q & A with Kevin Kossowan

Occupation: Business Owner/Certified Financial Planner

What did you eat today?

Organic coffee, home-made organic stone-ground whole wheat bread, home-made apricot jam, goat cheese [Holly’s Valencay], vegetable soup [was harvesting veg from the back yard today – leek, beet, carrot, celery, kale, baby cabbage, swiss chard], pickled carrots [from my yard], a chocolate croissant from the Dutch Delicious Bakery, 2008 Chateau Pesquié Terasses.

What do you never eat?

I’d pass on Hakarl next time, but I still ate it, so doesn’t qualify as ‘never’. I may give it another go though over overcooked/burned/dried out processed foods from M&M Meat Shop. I remember going in there years ago thinking ‘cool, a meat shop!’. Not so much.

What is your personal specialty?

Game veal & yard food. I hunt moose and elk calves that are largely milk-fed and just starting to feed on grasses – much like Nature’s Green Acres’ Nouveau Beef which I’m a huge fan of. Yard food because I love to serve menus based on fruit, veg, wild mushrooms, and wines grown & made on my central/downtown city lot.

Complete this sentence: In my refrigerator, you will always find:

Butter, rendered pork fat, home-made jams/syrups, eggs, organic cold-pressed canola oil, various yeasts [wine and bread], play dough. There’d also be a meat of some kind, and seasonal veg and fruit. Lately it also contains a diverse collection of artisan goat cheeses.

What is your weekday meal standby?

I don’t have one. Because I work from home, anything is fair game, any day of the week.

What is your favourite kitchen item?

A sharp knife. I avoid kitchen gadgets something fierce.

World ends tomorrow. Describe your last meal.

I’d start by doing a tasting of every bottle in my wine cellar, then base a menu around the wines. I’d also want to tie into the two large wheels of goat cheese in my cellar. With some good saucisson sec, rustic bread, fresh fruit and simply prepared veg – I’d be pretty happy. Until I got to the heavier reds – in which case I’d likely be motivated to do some herbed-up long-and-slow rotisserie meats over a wood fire. I’d pass on dessert and have more wine instead.

Where do you eat out most frequently?

For the once every month or two that we do, it would roughly be a tie: Leon’s Wonton & Noodle, and the Than Than [on 101st St]. I tend to value DIY, and eating out is rather DNY [Do Nothing Yourself], so eating out and I don’t get along very well most of the time.

Where’s the best place to eat in Edmonton?

In one’s kitchen.

If you weren’t limited by geography, where and what would you eat?

I used to think geography was a barrier to my culinary happiness – but don’t feel that way anymore. It took me 10 years of traveling and cooking in foreign countries to figure that out.

So I’m going to go with: at home, braised beef shoulder, mashed French fingerling potatoes w lots of chevre and butter, and a nice bottle of right-bank Bordeaux. Yum.

Check out Kevin’s blog here, but in particular, make sure to check out his fantastic From Local Farms series of videos.

Wok and Roll: Shanghai 456

One place you wouldn’t think to find Mack in Edmonton? The City Centre Airport. But that’s where we were recently, in the canteen of the Edmonton Flying Club, also known as Shanghai 456.

456

You’ve come to the right place

Though the restaurant exists mostly to feed those who use and pass through the airport, it seems Jane’s parents had stumbled upon an ad for the establishment in a local Chinese newspaper. So they introduced Jane to the place, which actually turned out to serve some pretty good food. We congregated there two weeks ago so Mack could learn more about his MC duties at Jane and Yi-Li’s upcoming wedding.

456

The happy couple!

I’m glad Jane and her other friends, all fluent in Chinese, took care of the ordering (it also amuses me that there are often two versions of the menu at Chinese restaurants – a shorter one in English for people like me, and another in Chinese for those able to order more authentic cuisine).

The xiao long bao (soup dumplings), were among the best I’ve had in the city. The soup was hot and savoury, and it was difficult to keep to decorum and not scarf down the entire basket in front of me. Best of all, they’re fun to eat in a group – one member in particular failed spectacularly several times, piercing the skin and releasing the prized soup before the dumpling reached his bowl.

456

Xiao long bao

Also very good were the potstickers. The skin on the dumplings were particularly good – thin and light – unlike those typically found at Chinese restaurants.

456

Potstickers

Mack was a bit hesitant about trying the red bean cakes, but he was easily swayed once he took his first bite. Of course, it’s hard not to love anything deep-fried, but in this case, the sweet and salty combination of the red bean filling and crispy exterior won him over. I know my Mum (a huge fan of red bean cakes) would love this version.

456

Red bean cakes

Other dishes we sampled included a hot and sour soup (not for the faint of heart – it definitely was more hot than sour) and sherry-braised chicken . The only disappointing dish we ordered was the fish – it had been deep-fried to an unfortunately chewy and hard crisp, then coated with a sickly-sweet sauce.

456

Chicken and fish

Service was good – we didn’t have to wait long for food or hot water refills on our tea – and though the interior wasn’t visually appealing, it was clean and functional.

456

Interior

If the airport is closed once and for all, I do hope the owners of Shanghai 456 find another home – their food would otherwise be missed.

Shanghai 456
49 Airport Road (Municipal Airport Building 18)
(780) 451-8333

Food Notes for October 11, 2010

  • LitFest, Edmonton’s nonfiction festival, runs October 14 – 24, 2010. They have a few food events this year, including Savouries (readings and a four-course meal) and Genu-wine (a panel discussion and wine tastings).
  • Bistro Praha has finally found a new home only a stone’s throw away from their previous location on Rice Howard Way. They are set to open on December 1 in the Empire Building.
  • The Dish will be starting dinner and a movie this month (similar to 4th and Vine’s offering).
  • Talk on C2E says that OPM will be shutting down on October 19, and will open after being rebranded into a sports bar.
  • Mack posted a link to the response to the RFP so far to develop kiosks at several downtown LRT stations. Included on the list are Good Earth and Press’d Sandwiches.
  • Sounds like Edmontonians are chomping at the bit for southern BBQ: in the days after the review of Bubba’s BBQ and Smoke House, the truck was inundated with business.
  • Heading to Rexall Place hungry? Check out City and Dale’s Food Finder.
  • The Little Red Kitchen is now gluten-free!
  • Allan of Button Soup crunched the numbers of the produce they received from their $600 share in Tipi Creek (a Community Supported Agriculture), comparing it to the relative cost of produce from a grocery store and the farmers’ market. The verdict? The CSA was much, much cheaper than shopping at a farmers’ market.
  • Check out Valerie’s post on picking high bush cranberries and her subsequent jam making adventures – brilliant outing and photos.
  • A good piece in the NYT about seed savers  preserving heirloom varieties that thrive in that specific region.
  • A Village Voice writer braved Fatty ‘Cue’s whole pig head (the serving is accompanied by surgical gloves). Not sure I could stomach the process, but good to see how it can be done.
  • Starbucks was handing out free VIA samples last week, having launched their flavoured versions. The caramel flavour I tried at the cafe with a splash of milk was pretty tasty for instant coffee.

VIA

Flavoured VIA

  • The storefront that used to house Viet Huong on 107 Avenue and 101 Street will be reopening on October 11 as Lau Viet Huong, offering hot pot.

Lau Viet Huong

Lau Viet Huong

Battista's

Battista’s inviting purple exterior

  • A few coworkers and I popped into El Rancho (11810 87 Street) after a training session nearby. It’s been far too long since my last meal there, as it was delicious as always. The steak in my burrito had just the right amount of seasoning and char, and though I could have done with more beans, it was a great lunch.

El Rancho

Burrito el Carbon at El Rancho

El Rancho

Pupusas and plantains, oh my!

  • Maria introduced us to whoopie pies from Lilyola Vintage Baking at the City Market on Saturday. I had the chocolate peanut butter version, while Mack had the carrot cake. It received rave reviews from both of us! Lilyola will be at the Olde Time Fair on the Square on October 16, 2010.

Lilyola Vintage Baking

  • We were fortunate to have a few Thanksgiving meals this weekend, including one at my parents’ house. It is such a cliché, but there’s nothing like home cooking!

Thanksgiving spread

Thanksgiving spread

  • Kim also invited us over for dinner tonight. We were tasked with bringing a dessert, which had to be gluten-free. I’m not that familiar with gluten-free recipes, but some searching led me to a NYT recipe for a gluten-free apple crumble, which asked for quinoa flour instead of wheat flour. It turned out really well, with the inclusion of oats ensuring the crumble had that necessary crunchy texture. We served it with vanilla Pinocchio ice cream – simple but tasty.

Apple Crumble

Apple crumble

Where’s the Beef: Rodeo Burger

Before Pecha Kucha 8, Mack and I met up with Brittney and Shauna for dinner at Rodeo Burger. I had been looking for an excuse to hit up the campus burger joint, and an event at the U of A was the perfect justification.

The bold signage, declaring the restaurant’s commitment to using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, and dedication to from-scratch goods (including their bread, patties and toppings) was eye-catching. But the red and black colour dynamic and hokey “Western”-themed font lost me, but then again, I’m much more attuned with the diner sensibilities of Fatburger, probably the closest burger joint comparison.

Rodeo Burger

Interior

Service was friendly, and the cashier was quite patient with us as we waded through the options we had available to customize our burger (19 included in the basic burger price of $4.69). I ended up with a burger topped with bacon and cheese (at $1 more) and caramelized onions, lettuce, tomato and ketchup (included). Mack chose the Western burger ($5.69) topped with mustard, southwest sauce, sautéed mushrooms, bacon, guacamole, green chillies and caramelized onions, and we both upsized with fries and a drink.

Our order didn’t take long at all, our meals ready for pick up at the front counter in no time. I loved the presentation of the shoestring fries, spilling over the paper cup into the basket below. Mack had chosen the “seasoned” variety, which, unfortunately, needed more seasoning. My sea salt version was tasty, but under salted for my taste.

Rodeo Burger

Burger and fries

As for the burger? The patty was thin with not much inherent flavour, surprising because they are custom-made for them, a claim that usually signals the expectation of something more substantial. Brittney’s complaint was that her patty did not fit the bun at all, again puzzling since they bake their own bread as well.

Rodeo Burger

Mack digs in

My grievance was the composition of the burger – typically, ketchup is used as a “binder” of sorts underneath the top of the bun. Here, the ketchup was underneath the patty, resulting in slippery lettuce that would not stay put.

Rodeo Burger

My burger

Rodeo Burger recently had a “free burger day” in support of the Salvation Army, and I do respect the fact that they, unlike other fast food chains, support area producers. And though I would return to Rodeo Burger if I was in the neighbourhood, I’m not sure I would go out of my way for a visit.

Rodeo Burger
8525A 112 Street
(780) 436-4375
Monday-Friday 11am-11pm, Saturday-Sunday 11am-10pm

City Market Report: Week 22

It’s hard to believe that another City Market season has come to a close – I remarked to Mack today that it is difficult to remember what we did on Saturday mornings when the market wasn’t in session.

City Market Final Day

Beautiful way to end the season

It has become a weekly ritual we look forward to not only for the purposes of stocking our fridge, but also to visit with producers and other market shoppers. More than in previous years, the market really felt like a community gathering place.

City Market Final Day

Kyla and friends

Unlike the chilly way the City Market ended last year,  we were blessed with sunny skies and gloriously warm weather today. At the very least, it meant buskers were able to further enliven the atmosphere.

City Market Final Day

Martin Kerr

Though the City Market hasn’t yet found a permanent winter space, they have already planned to extend their season somewhat by hosting markets on Churchill Square in heated tents. Dates include:

  • October 16, 1-5pm @ the Olde Time Fair on the Square
  • November 13, 3-7pm @ the Holiday Light Up
  • December 4, 11, 18, 11am-3pm for special winter markets

City Market Final Day

The hard working City Market staff and volunteers

I really enjoyed documenting the market this year. It made me hyper-aware of our growing season, as I paid attention to when certain items started to become available. It also helped connect me with producers, all of whom were great about my picture taking habit.

So instead of produce photos this time around, I wanted to showcase some of the hard working farmers themselves. I respect and admire all of you for sharing your skills and talents with us, and helping to feed our city.

City Market Final Day

Jennifer of Sundog Organic

City Market Final Day

Mary Ellen from Greens, Eggs and Ham (in addition to their drop-off locations for Futures members, they will also be selling at the Alberta Avenue farmers’ market starting next week)

City Market Final Day

Rick and Amy of Barr Estate Wines (they will be participating in some of the winter market dates)

City Market Final Day

Pat of Ocean Odyssey Inland (fish available year-round at their retail location, 10027 167 Street, 780-930-1901)

City Market Final Day

Ed and Sherry of Sunshine Organic (their products can be found year-round at Ocean Odyssey, but they also offer a winter pick-up option)

City Market Final Day

Michael of Mo-Na Food (he said they are still in the process of determining their winter sales plan)

City Market Final Day

Patty of Lola Canola (she has started selling soaps made with honey!)

City Market Final Day

Alan and Sarah of Irvings Farm Fresh (they also sell at Old Strathcona and Salisbury farmers’ markets year-round)

City Market Final Day

Mathias and Gerda of Green Valley Farm

The City Market returns to 104 Street next May. Thanks for a great season!

City Market Final Day

The countdown begins…

The Cooking Chronicles: Soup’s On

When we got back from San Francisco, the shock of a fifteen degree temperature drop immediately drove me to revisit the soup sections of my cookbooks. Comfort was definitely in order, and what better radiates comfort than a hot bowl of soup?

Italian White Bean, Bacon and Tortellini Soup

Giada De Laurentiis’ recipe for an Italian white bean, pancetta and tortellini soup immediately caught my eye, but then again, it’s hard to go wrong with pork belly and cheese-filled pasta. I ended up substituting Irvings Farm Fresh bacon for the pancetta, and boy, was it a good decision – the bacon imbued the broth with a smoky flavour that was irresistible. The tortellini (from local company Pasta Time, available at the Italian Bakery) was also a nice inclusion, especially because we don’t indulge in the cheese-filled pasta often. And though we didn’t have any carrots, the Swiss chard from Sundog Organics provided a needed vegetable punch.

Soup

Italian white bean, bacon and tortellini soup

It was a simple but tasty soup that I will definitely make again, especially on cold winter nights.

Golden Pepper and Tomato Soup

For something a little less protein-rich, I turned to Deborah Madison’s golden pepper and yellow tomato soup. I ended up substituting another main ingredient in this soup – instead of using yellow tomatoes, I used one absolutely massive Grightmyre’s Pride tomato that weighed over two pounds (James of Sundog Organic said the heirloom variety is quite dense). Coupled with bell peppers from Doef’s and saffron and herbs for flavouring, the outcome should have been better than it was. We thought the broth was lacking something, though the bacon broth, still lingering on our minds (and palates), probably made it impossible for this soup to follow.

Late Summer Vegetable Soup

Golden pepper and yellow tomato soup

Celeriac Soup

I had been eying Donna Hay’s celeriac soup in No Time To Cook for some time, patiently waiting for celery root to appear at the City Market. It finally did recently, and I picked some up from Greens, Eggs and Ham. In addition to the celery root, the recipe also calls for onion, potatoes, stock and a touch of cream, pureed together.

Celeriac Soup

Celeriac soup, all packed for lunch

I know I shouldn’t be surprised that celeriac tastes exactly like celery, but I was. It brightened the potentially heavy soup with a lovely freshness that made for the perfect lunch.

Though I’m happy with the beautiful fall weather we’ve been having lately, the bright side of a drop in temperature will be returning again to the comforting arms of soup.

Volunteering for the 2010 Homeless Count

The eighth count of Homeless people found 3079 homeless∗ people in the City of Edmonton. Of these, 1862 were absolute homeless (having no housing alternative) and 1217 were sheltered homeless (living in emergency accommodations). This represents an increase of 18% in the overall number of homeless individuals in the City of Edmonton from the 2006 count tally of 2618.

-from A Count of Homeless Persons 2008, Homeward Trust

After volunteering for the last Homeless Count in 2008, I started noticing that the final count of 3,079 was cited often – not unexpected given that it’s the best guess agencies have available, but surprising given the caveat on the possible margin of error given the methodology. Still, because of its pronounced use as a likely basis for funding, and more than anything, its encapsulation of the homeless population for the public, I knew I wanted to volunteer for the count again this year.

In light of the Ten Year Plan to End Homelessness, and in particular, the Housing First model that the plan embraces (having placed over 900 people in housing), I am really hoping that the count finds a decrease in the number of homeless people in Edmonton. Of course, this would mean that the number of homeless would have had to remain somewhat stagnant since 2008, but I’d like to be hopeful.

I headed to Boyle Street Co-op (my base camp site) this morning and met Fraser, who would be my buddy for the count. Our route ran along 107 and 107A Avenue, through both Central McDougall and McCauley neighbourhoods, and definitely saw more foot traffic than the route I had last year along the same Avenue but further west in Queen Mary Park.

IMG_7397

Avenue of Nations route

Similar to what Mack and I found two years ago, we encountered many people in this ethnically-diverse area who passed on answering the questions because of English language barriers (it might be worthwhile for volunteers with second language capabilities to be recruited for future counts). Also, many, once finished answering our questions, were curious about why the survey was being done – a great opportunity to mention the work being done and coordinated by Homeward Trust.

It is worth noting that we also talked to a few people who admitted to being formerly homeless, but had strong opinions on what could be done better to address the issues. For example, one man expressed his opposition to the construction of another social housing complex in the inner city, stating that the temptation for relapse for residents in such an area is much higher than when compared with less central neighbourhoods (he may have been referring to the complex for recovering drug addicts that was just turned down by a city board in Central McDougall).

The 2010 report should be out by mid-November. Thanks again to Homeward Trust for this opportunity to volunteer – it’s always a humbling experience.

If you’re looking to give back, consider volunteering at the upcoming Homeless Connect on October 17, 2010. Hope to see you there!

Food Notes for October 4, 2010

Want the chance to win two WestJet tickets worth over $4000? It’s as easy as clicking over to Mack’s blog and answering the question, “What are you doing to help make Edmonton a better place?” Good luck! On to this week’s food notes:

  • Happy birthday to Vinomania, who is celebrating 15 years in the wine business this month! To help commemorate the occasion, from October 4-30, 2010 they are offering free wine tastings on their Enosystem, and with the donation of a non-perishable item to the Edmonton Food Bank, a 15% discount on all wine purchases.
  • Just Food Edmonton has organized an opportunity to contribute to developing the national People’s Food Policy. The forum (election candidates have been invited also) will take place on October 13, 2010 from 6-9pm at the Central Lions Seniors Centre (11113-113 Street). RSVP by October 10.
  • I know I’m already lamenting the end of the City Market this coming weekend, but something to look forward to for others going through withdrawal is the Olde Time Fair on the Square on October 16, 2010, which will feature market vendors in addition to pumpkin carving and carriage rides.
  • Have you checked out TeamBuy yet? It’s another e-mail discount deal system similar to Groupon.
  • Liane announced that Blair Lebsack, Executive Chef of Madison’s Grill (and one of my favourite chefs in the city) is leaving to tour and cook around Europe after attending Terra Madre. But don’t worry – it sounds like he’ll be back eventually, to open his own restaurant.
  • Liane also posted that the popular Cafe de Ville is opening a second location in Sherwood Park at 25 Sioux Road. Watch for it in December.
  • Chris Lachance of Century Hospitality is featured in the October issue of Avenue Magazine. As he was also profiled in their home interiors section two years ago, one has to wonder if they’ve run dry on local personalities to write about?
  • I’m biased, but: Mack wrote a great summary post on a session on “A Heritage of Local Food” at this weekend’s symposium put on by the Edmonton Heritage Council.
  • Kevin Kossowan hosted a tasting of Smoky Lake Goat Cheese last weekend, and though I was sad to have missed it, I can live vicariously through Valerie, Mel and Chris.
  • Like Alberta Avenue before it, Chinatown is getting some facade overhauls – I am hoping that like Alberta Avenue, it means that new businesses will soon follow!

Taipan Cafe

Taipan Cafe, under all the construction

  • The Marc, Patrick and Doris Saurette’s new French bistro, officially opens on October 5. We peeked inside the windows on Sunday, and the dining room looked sparkling, and ready to go!

The Marc

The Marc

  • By the end of the year, every major shopping mall will have a tea peddler in its midst. For City Centre, it will be Tea Fusion.

Tea Fusion

Tea Fusion

  • I’m a sucker for a promotion: Tim Horton’s offers “game day doughnuts” when the Eskimos play. Though they’re really only vanilla dip doughnuts with green and gold sprinkles, they seemed to taste better than normal yesterday. Perhaps it was the taste of victory?

Game day doughnut!

Mack with his doughnut

Enjoy the lovely fall weather!

24/One at the Edmonton International Film Festival

At the City Market last weekend, dozens of people gathered around the Edmonton International Film Festival tent, readying themselves for the 24/One Challenge: make a family-friendly short film in just twenty-four hours!

For the chance to win a $500 cash prize, 45 teams of three entered the competition, with 38 managing to hand in their submission by the deadline. In addition to a selecting one of three genres (comedy, film noir or mockumentary), teams had to include a prop in their film (they were given $5 to purchase something from the farmers’ market), and also incorporate the line “They’re reel…and fabulous” into their script. A jury panel then chose the top ten to be screened on the last day of the festival. The winner of the grand prize, however, was to be chosen by the audience.

I was was planning on making it to at least one screening at EIFF, and after the excitement at the market, figured it would be best to satisfy my curiosity and find out how the teams did. Mack had been lucky enough to get free tickets from EIFF this year, so though he couldn’t come with me, I was able to take advantage of a complimentary pass.

Due to a fire alarm and subsequent evacuation, the screening had been pushed back a half hour. It wasn’t a long wait, and besides, it meant the excitement for the filmmakers in the audience (who wouldn’t know if their film made it into the top ten until show time) had even more time to grow.

EIFF

The line at Empire Theatre

I really didn’t expect to laugh as much as I did. Several of the films were hilariously absurd (including personified vegetables, an alien encounter, and the sport of “freestyle walking”), and I couldn’t help but appreciate the creativity on display. Though some were cleaner than others, in terms of camera work or sound recording, for example, it was amazing to me that all of the films had been written, shot, and edited all in twenty-four hours.

My two favourite films (and the two that I ended up voting for with my audience ballot) were by Team Show & Tell and Team SSC. The former produced Mittens, about a man entranced with a girl who left a mitten behind at his bus stop, to the point of developing stalker tendencies, while the latter, Reunion, prominently featured its prop (a jar of grape jam from Strathcona County Kitchens) in its telling of a band shattered by a member’s “preserve addiction”.

EIFF

My ballot

Though I didn’t connect with Walk the Line, a mockumentary about the sport of freestyle walking, it was clearly very well done. More than anything, I was actually able to identify the Edmonton locations they used (something I was hoping for more of) – Beaver Hills Park and the Legislature grounds.

Before they announced the winner of the $500 people’s choice prize, host Rick Lee handed out prizes in jury-determined categories. Walk the Line took home a majority of the awards, including best director, editing and cinematography, so it wasn’t a surprise when they were also called up for the people’s choice award.

I was really glad to have caught 24/One fever – it’s something I will definitely look for at next year’s festival!

City Market Report: Week 21

Though it started out quite chilly this morning, it turned out to be a great day weather-wise for the penultimate City Market day.

Week 21

Don’t you just love the market in the fall?

Because I had a workshop to get to, I had to make my rounds in twenty minutes – definitely not enough time to really enjoy the market, but at least we have our groceries for the week!

Week 21

Still quiet

There were lots of purple produce to choose from:

Kuhlmann's

Beets from Kuhlmann’s

Steve & Dan's

Grapes from Steve & Dan’s

Sundog Organics

Kale from Sundog Organics

…and lots of pumpkins!

Riverbend Gardens

Jack-o’lantern sized pumpkins from Riverbend Gardens

Sundog OrganicsS

ugar pie pumpkins from Sundog Organics

Kuhlmann's

My personal favourite – too cute ornamental gourds from Kuhlmann’s

I can’t believe the City Market season ends next week – time really does fly. Hope to see you there!